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Microfiche 

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Collection  de 
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Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreprodjctions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibiiographic  Notes/Notas  tachniquas  at  bibliographiquas 


Tha  Instituta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tha  bast 
original  copy  availabla  for  filnning.  Faaturas  of  this 
copy  which  may  ba  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagas  in  tha 
raproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  changa 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


□    Colouted  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagia 


□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^  et/ou  pelliculie 

n~|    Cover  title  missing/ 


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La  titre  de  couverture  manque 


□ 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartas  g^ographiquas  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  da  couleur  (i.e.  autre  qua  bloue  ou  noirel 


p~|    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avac  d'autres  documents 


j      I    Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  sarr^e  paut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distorsion  le  long  de  la  nr.arge  intirieure 


Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  tha  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certainas  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  la  taxte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  itait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  it6  filmtes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplimantaires: 


L'Instltut  a  microfilm^  la  meilleur  exempiaire 
qu'il  lui  a  it6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Las  details 
de  cet  exempiaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  pnuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  una 
modificetion  dans  la  m^thoda  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquis  ci-dessous. 


r~l    Coloured  pages/ 


D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaur^es  et/uu  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  ot  foxe< 
Pages  ddcolories,  tacheties  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditachies 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualiti  in^gala  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  matarit 
Comprend  du  material  suppl^mentaira 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

r~~]  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~7|  Pages  discoloured,  stained  ot  foxed/ 

I      I  Pages  detached/ 

r~7  Showthrough/ 

I      I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

r~1  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

|~n  Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partieilement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  M  filmdes  A  nouveau  de  facon  i 
obtenir  la  mailleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film^  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

1 
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12X 


16X 


20X 


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28X 


32X 


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Th«  copy  filmed  h«r«  has  bean  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library 

Indian  and  Northern  Affairs 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  icaeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specificationa. 


L'axemplaire  filmi  fut  reproduit  grAce  h  la 
gAnirositA  de: 

Bibliothdque 

Affaires  indiennes  et  du  Nord 

Lee  imeges  suivantes  ont  it^  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet*  de  I'exempiaire  filmA,  et  en 
conformity  avec  lea  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copiea  in  printed  paper  covers  are  fiimad 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illuatrated  impree- 
sion,  or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Lee  exemplaires  originsux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  eat  imprimte  sont  filmte  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darni^re  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impreasion  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  aelon  le  caa.  Toua  les  autres  exemplaires 
origineux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impreasion  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shai!  contain  the  symbol  —^(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED")." or  the  symbol  y  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  appliea. 


Un  dea  symbolea  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
demlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
caa:  la  symbole  — »>  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Mapa.  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  largo  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  comer,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  framea  aa 
required.  The  following  diagrama  illustrate  the 
method: 


Lee  cartea.  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  dtre 
filmte  d  des  taux  de  rMuction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA.  il  est  film^  i  partir 
de  Tangle  sup^rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  i  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bee,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Las  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


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to 


pelure. 


32X 


1 

2 

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4 

5 

6 

■\ 


Photo  by  Root,  Chicago. 


THE 


NORTH 


OR. 


LIFE  IN  THE  Great  White  World. 


A   Complete    and  Connected  Story  of  Arctic  Explorations,  Superbly 

Illustrated  from  Real  Scenes.     Replete  with  Anecdote,  Incident, 

Thrilling     Adventure,     and     Intense',      Interesting 

Information.    The  Book  with  a  Purpose 

Consecrated    to    Further    Polar 

Investigation. 


BY 

EVELYN  BRIGGS  BALDWIN,  A.  M. 

Member   of  the  Chicago  Academy  of  Sciences.   Member  of  the  National  Geographic  Society 

Washington.  D.  C.  Non-Resld.:nt  Member  of  the  Geographical  Club  of  Philadelphia 

formerly     Assistant     Observer    United     States    Weather    Bureau,    and 

Meteorologist  to  the  Peary  North  Greenland  Expedition.  1893-4. 


SOLD  ONLY  BY  SUBSCRIPFION. 


CHICAGO,  ILLINOIS.  U.  S.  A. 

T8q6. 


■■■ 


M 
ag 


M 
of 


Copyright,   18^6 

BY 

EVELYN  B.  BALDWIN. 


M, 
in 


M: 
coi 


Th 
we 
bai 


,       SPECIAL  NOTICE.-AS  this  book  is  published  for  the  advancement  of  Polar  Research  and 

»Llrt?n  "■*?".?  °' '""•"^'"8  *''«  '"""»  f°'  »he  better  equipment  of  our  expedition,   all  com- 
munications relative  thereto  should  be  addressed  as  follows;    (Business  address) 

E.  B.  BALDWIN,  Slayton  Lyceum  Bureau.  Central  Music  Hall,  Chicago,  III. 
(Or,  Naperville,  III.) 


All 

sut 
mo 


DEDICATED 


TO 

My  grandfather,  Nathaniel  Crampton,  Esq,  for  his  generous  encour- 
agement at  all  times; 

TO 

My  father,  who,  with  the  patriotism  of  a  soldier  and  the  appreciation 
of  a  scholar,  once  and  again  has  said  "Go!" 

TO 

My  mother,  who  finds  "in  all  this  discipline  a  verification  of  her  faith 
in  the  leadings  of  a  Divine  Providence"- 

TO 

My  comrades  whose  fellowship  in  North  Greenland,  amidst  scenes  of 
common  interest,  is  ever  an  inspiration  for  further  effort; 

TO 

The  members  and  friends  of  the  auxiliary  expeditions  by  whom  we 
were  restored  opportunely  and  in  health  to  our  homes  as  an  unbroken 
band;  and,  finally, 

TO 

All  lovers  of  the  arts  and  sciences,  among  whom  are  especially  the 
subscribers  to  this  volume  as  well  as  to  those  who  may  otherwise  pro- 
mote the  cause  in  the  advancement  of  which  it  has  been  gladly  written. 


MAPS  AND  PRINCIPAL  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Nos. 

1. 

2-3, 


4-5, 

6. 

7-10. 

11-14. 

15 

16. 

17-20 

21-22 

23-26. 


27-28, 
29-30, 
31-32. 


n,       ..     ,  Pages. 

—Frontispiece. 

,— Fatal    Accident     on     the     Matterhorn— Group     of    Arctic    Ex- 

PJo^'ers  Between  16  and  17 

—Groups  Parry's  First  and  Second  Expeditions Between  32  and  33 

—Barents'   House  (Exterior  and   Interior) 4^{ 

—Groups  Franklin's  First  Expedition Between  48  and  49,  64  and  65 

—Groups  Parry's  Second  Expedition..- Between  80  and  81,  96  and  97 

—Group  Early  Explorers    ^^ 

—Map  of  the  North  Polar  Regions ......!. ..!io4-io6 

—Groups  Franltlln's  Second  Expedition.. Between  112  and  113.  128  and  129 

—The.  "Fury;"    Eskimo  Weapons;    Glacier;    Seal.. Between  144  and  145 

— Upernavik:    Midnight  Scene;   Church  and  Parsonage;    the  Three 

Graces;    Native  Huts.— Sir  Leopold   McCllntock   

.Between  160  and  161,  176  and  177 

—West  Greenland  Group;    Melville  Bay,  Eskimos,  etc 

..............     Between   192  and   193 

—Cumberland     Eskimos.— Sea    Game.— South    Greenland    Natives 

_.  ;"' ;■,•■••. Between  208  and  209 

—Reindeer.— Siberian   Life:— Reindeer;     Swans;    Geese 


33-34.—' 


35-36. 

37. 
38-39 

40, 
41-42, 
43-44, 
45-46, 
47-48, 


49-50.- 

51-52.- 
53-54.- 

55-56.- 
57-58.- 
59-60.- 

61-62.- 
63-64.- 

65-66.- 
67-68.- 
69.- 
70.- 
71.- 
72.- 
73.- 


^„ ■ ; Between  224  and  225 

Officers  Nares'  Expedition;    West  Greenland  Views 

^"'V""vI"Vr""", Between   240  pnd   241 

-Godthaab;    Nordcnsklold,  King  Oscar,  Lockwood.Between  256  and  257 

-Map:    From  Baffin's  Bay  to  Lincoln  Sea 26S 

-Baffin's  Bay  Views  :-Natives,  Dogs,  Glaciers ....  Between  272  and  273 

-Map   of  King  William's  Land tit. 

-General  Greely;  Cape  Dudley  Dlgges;  Natives... Between  288  and  "89 
-Musk-Calves.  Floe-Ice;  Greely  Relief  Vessels..  ..Between  304  and  305 
-Calm,  Kyakers,  etc.;  Godhaven,  Ships,  Natives.. Between  320  and  3'1 
-West  Greenland  Views;    Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition 

_  ■■ jV"""' Between  336  and  337 

-Return  of  the  Greely  Survivors;   Lieut.  Peary,  Sea  Ice 

-,  ■ ; Between'  352  and  353 

"Sr^l  r'    "J""" Between  368  and  369 

-The    Falcon,    Capt.  Bartlett;   Etah  Eskimos,  Cape  York 

rp  ■■■;"■; ,;••'• Between   384   and    .385 

-The     Falcon :"-Crew;    at  Disco  Between  400  and  401 

-Peary  Relief  Expedition;   Dr.  Chamberlln Between  416  and  417 

-Climbing   a  Glacier;     Dr.    Chamberlln,    Mr.   Brldgman,    and    the 

Author  on  Greenland  Glaciers Between  432  and  433 

-Ice-berg,  Aurora  Borealis;    the  "Kite" Betv/een  448  and  449 

-Lieut.    Brainard,   Paleocrystlc  Ice;    Jackson-Harmsworth   Expe- 
dition  Between  464   and   465 

-Nansen  and  the  "Fram;"    Masonic  Apron,  Etc.. Between  480  and  481 

-Botanical  Specimens;  Antarctic  Explorers Between  496  and  497 

-Names  and  Ages  (1893)  of  Nansen's  Associates 497 

-Jackson  and  Harmsworth,   the   "Windward" 50' 

-Andree's    Balloon 505 

-"Farewell,"    the    "Fair   Augusta" 511 

■Hunting  Musk-Cat  tie    []] "^518 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   I.-TO  Our   Readers  and   Frlends.-Dcfense   of  Polar  Explora- 

Ho;«~Mr,°'  "^^rlt^T'  ^^P'°''^tlon.-Means  of  Equipping  Expedl- 
tions.-Misslon  of  This  Book.— Acknowledgments.  n  -ii 

CHAPTER  II.-Early  Norse,  English,  and  Dutch  Voyages ""  Ericson- 
Northeast  and  Northwest  Passages.-Froblsher.-Drake -Barents- 
Barents'  Death.-Slaughter  of  Arctic  Game.-Conflicts  with  Eskiinos'- 
Sad  Fate  Of  Hudson.-Search  for  Hudson.-Dlscovery  of  Baffin's  Bay- 
.  Noble  fellows:  Captain  James  and  Companions.-Origln  of  the  Hud 
son's  Bay  Company em  oi  me  Hud- 

CHAPTER  ni.-Ru8sian  Arctic  Voyages -Private"  Ad venturers.-Peter  the 
Great  sPatronage.-Vltus  Bering.-The  Greatest  Geographical  Enterprise 
Ever  Undertaken ^    ° 

CHAPTER  IV.-Arctlc  Voyages  of  Captain  Cook,  the  Scoresbys.  Sir  John 
Ross,  and  Others :-Benjamln  Franklin's  Patronage.-Discovery  of  the 
Hawaiian  Islands.-Disoovery  of  the  Mackenzie  River -The  Gosnel 
Among  the  Eskimos.-The  Northernmost  Tribe  of  People  in  the  World  _ 
Crimson-Colored  Snow " 

^""^^Na^rfatTv^^^""'  ^^'''  ^^«yage:-WonderfuiDiscoverie8;  A  Fascinating 

CHAPTER  VI.-Franklin's  First  ExpediVionr-Franklin's' Soldier  Life -E^^ 
plores  British  Amerlca.-Sufferlngs.  and  Death  of  Companions    116-129 

CHAPTER  VII^Russlan  Expedltlons:-Wrangell's  Great  Journeys  in'siberia 
and  on  the  Arctic  Ocean.-Life  Among  the  Chookchees   Yakuts    Tun 
guses.  and  Yakaglres.-Visits  the  Bear  Islands-Observance  of  Easter 
Sunday.— Exploration  of  the  Tundras...  no  i -7 

CHAPTER  Vni.-Parry's  Second  Voyage-Capture  ofaHuge  Bear"-lsports 
trGurofrZT"""^'-  ^^^"^  Game.-Exp,oref  Regi^on  ^h^ 

CHAPTER    XI.-Franklln's    Second    Expedition,    and    the    Voyage   of   the 

B  ossom":-Descent  of  the  Mackenzie.-Auroral   Displays  -Hostile 

^^'"'"^^ 177-182 


«  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    XII.— Parry's  Fourth  Voyage;    Attainment  of  a  High  Latitude 

North  of  Spitzbergen 183-185) 

CHAPTER  XIII.— Second  Voyage  of  Sir  John  Rous:— Discovery  of  the  North 
Magnetic  Pole.— Booth's  Generous  Patronage.— A  Thrilling  Deliverance 

190-197 

CHAPTER  XIV.— Expeditions  of  Back,  and  of  Dease  and  Simpson:— To  the 

North  Coast  of  America.— Assassination  of  Simpson 198-204 

CHAPTER  XV.— Mlddendorf  In   the  Talmur  Peninsula:— Summer  Weather 

and  Animal  Life.— A  Grateful  Savage 205-208 

CHAPTER   XVI.— Fateful   Voyage   of  Franklin,  and   Expedition  of  Rae:— 

Last  Message  of  Franklin.— Rae  on  Committee  Bay 209-212 

CHAPTER  XVII.— Richardson's  Search  for  Franklin:— He  Visits  the  United 
States.— Travels  via  Great  Lakes  and  the  Mackenzie  River  to  the  Arctic 
Coast.— Finds  Newspapers  Within  the  Arctic  World 213-218 

CHAPTER  XVIII.— Search  Expedition  of  James  C.  Ross:— To  Lancaster 
Sound  and  North  Somerset .219-221 

CHAPTER   XIX.— Voyage  of  the   "North  Star" 222 

CHAPTER  XX.— Voyage  of  the  "Plover"  and  the  "Herald" 223 

CHAPTER  XXL— The  Search  Continued:— The  Admiralty  Squadron  and 
Private  Expeditions.— The  Americans  Assist. -Discouraging  Results, 
224-22ft 

CHAPTER  XXII.— Kennedy's  Search  Voyage:— Exploration  of  Prince  of 
Wales  Land  and  North  Somerset 227-230 

CHAPTER  XXIII.— Voyage  of  ivIcClure  and  ColUnson.- Discovery  of  a  North- 
west Passage:  To  Bering's  Strait.— A  Strange  Deception.— McClure's 
Discovery  of  Bank's,  or  Baring's  Land,  and  oif  Prince  Albert's  Land.— 
McClure's  Sympathy  for  the  Eskimos.— Researches.— Peril  and  Deliver- 
ance.— McClure's  Gratitude. — Game. — ColUnson's  Successful  Voyage 
231-241 

CHAPTER  XXIV.— Belcher's  Search  Squadron:  Rescue  of  McClure.— Aban- 
donment of  the  Vessels 242-248 

CHAPTER  XXV.— The  American  Search  Expedition:— Grlnnell's  Generosity. — 
Congressional  Debate.— Red  Snow.— Traces  of  Franklin.— A  Perilous 
Besetment 249-260 

CHAPTER  XXVI.— Rae's  Search  and  Discovery :— Death  of  Franklin's  Party 
by  Starvation 261-262 

CHAPTER    XXVII.— Inglefleld's  Voyage:— A  Signal  Success 263-264 

CHAPTER  XXVIII.— Kane's  Expedition:— Grlnnell's  Generosity  Again.— Ex- 
plorations In  Kane  Basin. — Critical  Situation  and  Attempt  to  Escape. — 
Final  Release 265-282 

CHAPTER  XXIX.— McCUntock's  Successful  Voyage:— Important  Informa- 
tion Concerning  the  Fate  of  Franklin's  Party.— The  Search  In  Klng^ 
William's  Land 283-287 

CHAPTER  XXX.— Expedition  of  Hayes:- Public  Subscriptions.— In  Kennedy- 
Channel .288-298 


CONTENTS.  7 

CHAPTER  XXXI.— Hairg  First  Expedition:— A  Struggle  for  Recognition.— 

Generous  Patrons.— Life  Among  th'e  Cumberland  Island  Eskimos. 299-307 

CHAPTER  XXXH.- Hall's  Second  Expedition;— His  Heart  in  the  Cause.— 

Discoveries  In  King  William's  Land 308-3U 

CHAPTER  XXXHL- German  Expeditions:- Public  Donations.- The  King's 
Sympathy.— A  Perilous  Drift  on  the  Sea    Ice.— Explorations    In    East 

Greenland.— Scientific  Study  of  Polar  Life 313-319 

CHAPTER  XXXIV.— Hall's  Last  Voyage:— His  Death.— Miraculous  Preserva- 
tion of  Life.— Among  the  Famous  Etal-  Eskimos.- Lost  and  Afloat  on 

the  Sea  Ice.— The  End  by  Rescue 323-310 

CHAPTER  XXXV.— The  Discovery  of  Franz-Josef  Land:— Generous  Patron- 
age.—Energetic  Leaders.— Loyal  Men.— Sunday  Observance.— A  Joyful 

Surprise.— Escape  by  Sledge  and  Boat 341-353 

CHAPTER  XXXVI.-The  English  Expedition  of  1875-6  :-Patrlotlc  Interest.— 

Explorations  in  Grlnnell  Land.— Markhem's  Sledge  Journey 354-362 

CHAPTER  XXXVII.-Schwatka's  Expedition  to  King  William's  Land:-Prl- 
vate  Subscriptions.- A  Long  Sledge  Journey.— Abundance  of  Animal 

Life. — Intense  Cold 363-367 

CHAPTER     XXXVIII.— Nordenskiold's    Wonderful     Voyage:— Explorations 

Along  the  Siberian  Coast.— Through  the  Northeast  Passage 368-373 

CHAPTER  XXXIX.-De  Long's  Gallant  Struggle:-Mr.  Bennett's  Liberality  — 
Through  Bering's  Stralt.-Llfe  in  the  "Jeannette."-islands  Discov- 
ered.—The  "Jeannette"  Crushed.— On  the  Retreat.— Separation  in  a 
Gale.— Death's  Horrid  March.— Deliverance  of  the  Survivors. ..  .374-404 
CHAPTER  XL.— Heroic  Americans:— The  Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition.— 
Life  at  Fort  Conger.— Abundance  of  Game.— Scientific  Research.— 
Attainment  of  the  "Farthest  North."— Failures  of  the  Relief  Parties!— 
Retreat  to  Cape  Sabine.- Death   by   Starvation.- Rescue  of  the  Sur- 

^^^0" 405-427 

CHAPTER  XLI.— Nansen's  First  Triumph  as  an  Explorer:— The  First  Jour- 
ney Across  Greenland.— Life  and  Customs  of  the  Eskimos...      428-441 
CHAPTER    XLIL-WIth  Lieutenant  Peary.-The  Author's  Plans  for  Polar 
Research.— Lieutenant  Bralnard's  Indorsement.— Comrade  Astrup's  Trip 

to  Melville  Bay 442-495 

CHAPTER  XLIII.— Nansen's  Last  Famous  Voyage:— His  Equipment.— Names 

and  Ages  of  His  Associates 496-500 

CHAPTER  XLIV.-The  English  in  Franz- Josef  Land:-The  Jackson-Harms- 

worth  Expedition 501-502 

CHAPTER  XLV.-To  the  North  Pole  by  Balloon:— Mr.  Andree's  Project. 

503-50R 

CHAPTER  XLVI.— Lovers  of  the  Arts  and  Sciences:— Free  and  Accepted  Ma- 
sonry in  Arctic  Exploration.— Emblems  Carried  Northward.— Interest 
Taken  in  Scientific  Exploration  by  Kane  Lodge,  New  York.— Presenta- 
tion of  an  Historical  Painting.- Entertaining  and  Instructive  Ad- 
dresses.—Our  Working  Principle 507-520 


ESKIMO  MELODY. 


V««    V-^^.«    >!•.•<,..«     .,«...,,.,    ^,.,    ^,., 


ha 


>jj  -  a     >)a  .  a       <,,.    Hi 


•la  .  a      .ja  ■  a       <ja  .  a,     h« 


j  ^a-a   -ja-a  ,,a.a  <,a.a     >,a  •  a    ^a  •  a     la'T,      ^."f, 

I  i»-a   -ja.,   ^a-a  -ja.a     ^a  -  a      <).  .  a     ,a  ■  a      ^a  -  a 


V-a     ia..     >,.  .,      ,a.,     ^.  ■  a'   V . '.  \,  .\ 


I 


Milil 


TECHNICAL  TERMS 


USED   IN 


ICE  NAVIGATION,  ETC. 


BAY-ICE,  OR  HARBOR-ICE— Ice  formed  annually  In  bays  or  closed  Beas. 
BESET.— To  be  nearly  or  entirely  fast  in  the  sea-Ice. 

BORING.  OR  "BUCKING"  ICE.— Forcing  the  vessel  by  steam  or  sail  through 
crowded  Ice. 

FIELD-ICE.— Closely  aggregated  ice  covering  a  large  area. 

FLOE.— A  large  piece,  either  of  bay-Ice  or  of  paleocrystlc  Ice. 

FLOEBERO.— A  paleocrystlc  Iceberg  of  regular  cubical  shape,  Hat  top  and 
bottom,  perpendicular  sides,  "stratified"  structure,  and  regular  lines  of 
cleavage. 

HUMMOCK.— An  uneven,  irregular  part  of  floe-ice  rising  above  the  level,  an 
does  a  mound  above  a  plain. 

ICE-BLINK,  OR  ICE-SKY.— Reflection  of  light  from  the  ice,  causing  great 
brightness  in  the  sky  at  a  particular  point. 

ICE-FOOT.— Sea-ice  formed  along  shore.  It  is  stationary  and  is  separated 
from  the  main,  movable  ice  by  the  tide  crack. 

LAND-ICE,  OR  FAST-ICE.— Floes  or  grounded  masses  of  ice  attached  to 
the  land. 

LANE,  OR  LEAD.— A  narrow  channel  or  passage  between  ice  masses,  through 
which  a  vessel  may  pass. 

NIPPED.- Situation  of  a  ship  when  jammed  or  hard  pressed  by  the  Ice. 

NORTH  POLE  (Geographical).- Ninety  degrees  of  north  latitude:  the  point 
directly  beneath  the  North  (Polar)  Star. 

NORTH  POLE  (Magnetic).— The  point  where  the  dipping-needle  becomes  ver- 
tical—nearly twenty  degrees  (of  latitude)  south  of  the  North  Geographical 
Pole.    See  Voyage  of  John  C.  Ross. 

PACK.— A  considerable  area  of  ice,  consisting  of  large  masses  in  close  prox- 
imity. A  pack  may  be  either  close  or  open,  depending  upon  the  closeness 
to  which  the  masses  are  crowded. 


•V 


10 


TECHNICAL  TERMS. 


PA-LE-0-CRYST-IC  ICE.-Ice  of  great  thickness  and  of  such  character  as 
must  have  required  many  years  in  its  formation.  Occurring  genera^^v  in 
prTirie."^  surface  is  undulatory.  like  the  hiiis  and  vaiefof  a  ^ng 

PANCAKE.— A  piece  of  bay-ice. 

RUBBLE.— Small,  sharp,  irregular  pieces  of  ice    epnpmiu^  «f  .»       .  . 

.ion.  ana  wh,cn  nave  neea  .ro.ea  np  b/ples^  oTlv'  ZT       "°" 

''''Zt;r~*  ""'"  """'^--"^  ■"""  •"'  "'■"'  »   -"'■'^-'"P    to   pa,s 
STREAMS.-Long.  narrow  aggregations  o?  broken  ice 
TIDE-CRACK.-The  "break,"  or  opening  between  the  ice-foot  and  th.  ^  . 
body  Of  ice.    It  is  formed  by  the  action  of  the  tides  Ind  through  irdu^n^ 
heavy,  rising  tides,  water  flows,  causing  tidal  overflows  '         ^ 

WARPING.-Moving  a  ve3sel  by  means  of  ropes  attached  to  distant  objects 
WATER-SKY.-A  dark  sky,  beneath  which  is  generallv  tr^  h.  f       .. 

water.    „  n,ay  ne  said  .o  be  tne  connterpar. Tthe  L  nUn,      "  °'"'° 
YOUNS  ICE.-rce  of  recent  formation;  that  ,e.  of  not  more  man  one  year'. 

growth,  generally  of  a  much  shorter  period. 
BL4STING.-Breaking  the  ice   by  means  of  gunpowder  or  dynamite 
CALF.-A  detached  piece  of  ice  either  from  an  iceberg  or  the  face  of  a  glacier 
CROW'S  NEST.-A  barrel  fastened  near  the  top  of  the  mast,  in  which  the 

watch  may  stand  in  order  to  direct  the  course  of  the  ship 
DOCK.-A  recess  in  the  sea-ice  in  whicb  a  ship  may  flnd  anchorage. 
FIORD.— An  abrupt  opening  in  the  coast. 

^'\^bl^  in  tTe^rfl^ "'  °""  "^^°"^'  '''  '-'-'-  ''^'  -^-  -^  ^e  avail- 

PEMMICAN.-Dried  lean  beef,  pulverized  and  mixed  with  an  equal  quantitv 
of  suet.    This  is  seasoned  with  currants  and  sugar  and  th^n  m,       k 
heated  till  the  suet  .as  melted  and  mixed  with  rottr   n^e    eltTt 
is  kept  m  cans,  hermetically  sealed.    In  early  times  the  hunters  of  BHtish 
America  preserved  the  flesh  of  the  buffalo  by  first  sun-drying  and  m  x"ng 

POLYNIA.-A  Russian  tern,  designating  an  open  water  space  in  the  ice. 
RUE-RADDY.-A  shoulder-strap  used  in  pulling  the  sledge 

^'Tormfas~fer  ''""''  '"'  ""'^^  ^"^"'°^  ^'^^  ^''^  -^  ^^^^  °^  *^«  "de 
IRACKING.-Towing  or  sailing  a  boat  along  the  edge  of  the  ice. 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE: 


-OR, 


LIFE  IN  THE  GREAT  WHITE  WORLD. 


CHAPTER  I. 

TO  OUR  READERS  AND  FRIENDS. 

A  thoughtful  and  kindly  consideration  of  the  following 
introductory  lines  is  earnestly  requested  of  every  person  be 
fore  whose  eyes  they  may  appear.    Such  a  course Vill  explain 
the  motive  which  has  prompted  the  author  in  trustin-  one 
more  book  to  the  tender  mercies  of  an  indulgent  public     The 
writer's  interest,  not  merely  from  theory  but  from  the  more 
practical  school  of  experience,  in  the  matter  of  exploration 
and  travel,  has  prompted  him  to  arrange  a  book  "after  his 
own  heart"— on  the  subject  of  Arctic  research.     If  the  reader 
feels  as  does  the  author  the  importance,  the  sublimity,  of  con- 
tinued effort  in  the  conquest  of  the  Great  White  World    it 
IS  believed  that  this  volume  will  not  be  an  unwelcome  com- 
panion of  Its  possessor.    Its  purpose,  its  plan,  its  scope,  will 
appear  presently.  ' 

Know  you,  kind  friend  and  reader,  that  men  of  science  are 
agreed  that  definite  knowledge  of  the  Pole  and  Us  region 
will  be  of  great  value  to  the  world? 

Ex-Judge  Charles  P.  Daly,  president  of  the  American 
Geographical  Society,  once  made  an  address  at  one  of  the 
meetings,  in  which  he  said: 

"Why  should  we  try  to  reach  the  North  Pole?    Why  send 

,  "'^    ,"^ ■■••""  "ivT^iviiij;  pvvil  to  lite  and  property. 

when  we  all  know  that  the  approach  to  the  Arctic  Zone  is 


12 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


surrounded  by  insurmountable  barriers?  If  it  involved  noth- 
ing more  than  the  feat  of  reaching  the  Pole,  it  would  be  very 
difficult  to  answer  such  questions;  but  the  general  answer  to 
them  IS  that  there  is  no  portion  of  the  globe  where  observa- 
tions in  respect  to  scientific  matters  affecting  the  whole  elobe 
every  part  of  it)  are  so  important  as  in  the  polar  basin  and 
Its  vicinity.    The  tremendous  forces  which  are  there  at  work 

2tZ^l  ""'  *^',  '^'"''  "^  *^"  ^'^'""^'^  «^  exploration  and 
observation  are  physical  phenomena  which  it  is  most  im- 

IT.luV''  ''^'^'''^  ^°^  '*"*^^'  ^^^y  ^^^^  t«  do  with  the 
>v  nds  the  ocean  currents,  magnetic  influences,  and  numerous 
questions  of  the  most  practical  nature  in  their  application 
and  in  the  results  to  which  they  lead.  The  amount  of  knowl- 
edge in  the  world  which  has  been  discovered  by  accident  is 
small  in  proportion  to  that  which  has  been  the  result  of  pre- 
fer to'unfw.''"-  '°  *^'  P"'^'^  ^^^^«°  ^"^  b^  f«"«d  the 
key  to  anlock  those  mysteries  in  respect  to  the  laws  of  mag- 

netism.  All  know  that  magnetism  is  a  polar  force;  that  it 
directs  the  needle  which  guides  the  seaman  upon  and  around 
the  earth.  But  it  is  only  the  scientific  man  ?hat  knows  the 
insurmountable  difficulties  that  beset    investigation    of  Tts 

IfZfw  ^"'"^^°'  ^^  *'^  "^^^^  '^  '  *^--^^  ^--^edge 
"The  best  answer  ever  given  to  the  query,  'Well,  what  is 
the  use  of  these  expeditions?'  was  that  given  by  Frlnklii 

'Whatt  th  "'  '?  ''  ''^""'^  ''^  ^''''^''y  o^  electricity; 
What  IS  the  use  of  your  discovery?'  Franklin's  reply  was 
this:  'What  is  the  use  of  a  child?'  Make  use  of  it'  The 
most  ordinary  things  in  our  present  civilization  owe  their 
origin  to  what  in  their  day  was  scientific  information,  and 
they  are  due  to  the  close  observation  and  patient  labors  of 
men  who  could  not  have  predicted  the  great  results  that  fol- 
lowed their  researches." 

TT  .!°i^!  '^^'«^^"^y  language  of  Lieutenant  N.  F.  Maury,  of  the 
United  States  Navy:  ^' 

^    "Voyages  of  discovery,  with  their  fascinations  and  their 
c.iarms,  have  led  many  a  noble  champion  both  into  the  torrid 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


13 


and  frigid  zones;  and,  notwithstanding  tlie  liardsliips,  suffer- 
ings and  disasters  to  wliich    Nortliern    parties    liave  found 
themselves  exposed,  seafaring  men,  as  science  has  advanced, 
have  looked  with  deeper  and  deeper  longings  toward  the  mys- 
tic circles  of  the  polar  regions.     There  icebergs  are  framed 
and  glaciers  launched.     There  the  tides  have  their  cradle,  the 
whales  their  nursery.     There  the  winds  complete  their  cir- 
cuits and  the  currents  of  the  sea  their  rounds  in  the  wonderful 
system  of  oceanic  circulation.     There  the  Aurora  Borealis  is 
lighted  up  and  the  trembling  needle  brought  to  rest;    and 
there,  too,  in  the  mazes  of  that  mystic  circle,  terrestrial  forces 
of  occult  power  and  of  vast  influence  upon  the  well-being  of 
man  are  continually  at  play.     Within  the  Arctic  Circle  is  the 
pole  of  the  winds  and  the  poles  of  the  cold,  the  pole  of  the 
earth  and  of  the  magnet.     It  is  a  circle  of  mysteries,  and  the 
desire  to  enter  it,  to  explore  its  untrodden  wastes  and  secret 
chambers,  and  to  study  its  physical  aspects,  has  grown  into 
a  longing.     Noble  daring  has  made  Arctic  ice  and  waters 
classic  ground.     It  is  no  feverish  excitement  nor  vain  ambi- 
tion that  leads  man  there.     It  is  a  higher  feeling,  a  holier  mo- 
tive—a desire  to  look  into  the  works  of  creation,  to  compre- 
hend the  economy  of  our  planet— and  to  grow  wiser  and  bet- 
ter by  the  knowledge. 

"The  expeditions  which  have  been  sent  to  explore  unknown 
sea«  have  contributed  largely  to  the  extent,  of  human  knowl- 
edge, and  they  have  added  renown  to  nations,  and  lustre  to 
diadems.  Navies  are  not  all  for  war.  Peace  has  its  conquests, 
science  its  glories;  and  no  navy  can  boast  of  brighter  chaplets' 
than  those  which  have  been  gathered  in  the  fields  of  geo- 
graphical exploration  and  physical  research."  Mr.  Henry 
Grinnell,  at  a  meeting  of  the  American  Geographical  Society 
of  New  York,  summarized  the  commercial  results  of  Northern 
exploration  as  follow's: 

"1.  Sir  H.  Gilbert's  discovery  of  the  cod  fisheries  of  New- 
foundland. 2.  From  Davis'  discoveries  the  great  whale  fish- 
eries of  the  West.  a.  From  the  discoveries  of  Hudson  (who 
also  discovered  and  sailed  into  our  North  Biver,  which  now 


14 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


bears  his  name,  while  on  an  Arctic  voyage),  Hudson's  Bay, 
and  the  operations  of  the  great  fur  companies.  4.  Sir  John 
Ross;  tlie  whale  fishery  of  the  north  and'  northwest  of  Baf- 
fin's Bay.  5.  Captain  Parry;  whale  fishery  of  Lancaster 
Sound,  Barrow  Strait,  and  Prince  Regent  Inlet.  6.  Admiral 
Beechy;  whale  fishery  of  Bering  Straits,  in  which,  in  the 
space  of  two  years,  the  whalers  of  Nantucket  and  New  Bedford 
obtained  cargoes  from  which  it  is  said  they  have  realized 
eight  millions  of  dollars." 

A  further  illustration  is  to  be  found  in  the  rapidly  develop- 
ing resources  of  Alaska,  since  the  purchase  of  which,  from 
Kussih,  in  18()7,  the  United  States  has  annually  received  over 
1300,000  in  revenue  fi^m  the  sealeries  alone. 

In  the  foregoing  paragraphs  we  have  purposely  antici- 
pated the  oft-iepoated  question, 

"OF  WHAT  USE  IS  ARCTIC  EXPLORATION,  ANYWAY?" 

The  answers  in  the  language  of  Lieutenant  Maury  and 
Mr.  Grinnell  should  forever  silence  the  tongue  of  idle  objec- 
tion.   As  reasonably  might  one  argue  against  the  "use"  of 
spending  vast  sums  of  money  in  studying  the  worlds  now 
rushing  through  space  millions  of  miles  remote  from  our  little 
world;  or  in  otherwise  promoting  the  interests  of  pure  science. 
Well  indeed  it  is  for  the  moral  and  intellectual  well-being  of 
mankind  that  all  are  not  engaged  in  the  mad  rush  for  wealth, 
for  the  mere  sake  of  being  considered  the  possessors — not 
users — of  so  many  thousands!    Sublime  indeed  it  is  that  one 
gives  money,  another  talent,  another  prime  years,  and  even 
another,  life — all  that  something  may  be  contributed  to  the 
sum  of  human  knowledge.     Franklin,  Kane,  Grinnell,  Hall, 
Greely,  Lick,  Vanderbilt,  Rockefeller— all  these  illustrate  the 
sublimity  of  man  as  a  public  benefactor.     No  sane  person  will 
now  question  the  "use"  to  which  such  men  put  the  beneficent 
portion  of  their  wealth,  whether  of  money  or  of  talent     With- 
out just  such  contributions  as  they  individually  made  how 
many  of  them  would  to-day  be  known  beyond  a  tombstone  in- 
scription?   Of  those  dead,  not  one! 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  15 

The  following  editorial  from  the  brilliant  pen  of  Noble 
Prentis,  soldier,  traveler,  journalist,  is  of  interest  here: 

"THE  STORY  OF  ARCTIC  EXPLORATION. 

"There  was  an  interesting  meeting  of  the  Koyal  Geograph- 
ical Society  in  London  on  Monday  evening.     The  society   we 
nmy  well  suppose,  is  composed  of  men  in  the  decline  of  years 
and  the  'object  of  the  meeting'  was  to  keep  in  mind  and^uem: 
ory  a    ong-ago  event,  the  sailing  away  in  Mav,  1845,  of  the 

Among  the  old  men  present  was  Admiral  Sir  Francis 
McChntoclc,  who  commanded  the  'Intrepid,'  one  of  the  five 
vessels  which  set  out  in  1852  in  search  of  the  lost  Sir  John 
and  his  company,  and  as  he  spoke  of  the  experience  of  the 
searchers  he  alluded  to  the  help  extended  by  the  American 

P       Tyj  !'"  '''"'  ^^'"^  ^^^'^"^^'"  ^^^"^'^'^^l    »«tions   together 
President  Markham,  of  the  society,  spoke  especially  of  the  ac 

u  lSo3,  and  finally  our  own  Minister,  Mr.  Bayard,  spoke  of 
b  th  Americans  and  Englishmen  who  had  emulated  each 
other  in  pressing  toward  the  pole;  (Ireely  and  Kane  and 
leary,  and  Kranklin,  Koss  and  McClintock,  rivals  in  bravery 
and  endurance  and  determination.        ' 

"The  meeting  of  these  ehlerly  gentlemen  in  a  quiet  room 
talking  over  the  old  explorations  and  the  heroes,  for  the  nZ 
part  gone   afforded  a  striking  history  and  picture  of  mai's 
determination  to  solve  the  problems  of  the  North       Vt  first 
bold  navigators  were  led  on  by  the  hope  of  finding  J  uorth- 
west  passage  to  the  Pacific  and  the  'Golden  East,'  but  that 
Idea  wa^  droppetl  as  impracticable,  after  Franklin  and  all  his 
men  had  perished;  then  came  expe<litions  in  search  of  Frank 
in,    and    then    more    expeditions    to    be  followed    by  more 
sc^rchc.,'  and  finally  effort  narrowed  down  t<.  what  m;    ^ 
t^  wh?H  7  ^^-P^lition,  purely  scientifi<.  in  its  charac- 

ihe  old  plan  of   sending   many    vessels,    fullv    manned  .lud 
equipped,  as  those  of  "— —      -  -  '  '"''^ 


-i-,y !  ^auiviiii,  jjelelicT  and  theoth- 


16 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


ers,  is  no  longer  attempted.  Yet  men  may  be  said  to  pusii 
on  by  twos  and  threes  to  the  mysterious  pole.  Not  again  will 
a  whole  ship's  company  be  sacrificed  as  was  Franklin's,  who 
was  lost  in  his  third  journey,  but  on  any  day  of  the  year,  it 
may  be  said,  little  companies  of  men  are  ready  to  volunteer 
for  the  North. 

"The  story  of  Arctic  explorations  is,  that  earth  nor  sky 
nor  ocean  can  have  a  terror  that  will  be  allowed  to  battle 
man's  fixed  and  intense  desire  to  know.  He  is  determined 
to  tear  from  the  heart  of  this  world  its  every  secret,  and  no 
wave  so  tumultuous  and  no  cloud  so  black,  and  no  ice  gulf  so 
wide,  but  he  will  make  his  way.  Amid  all  the  loss  and  dis- 
tress, and  cold  and  hunger,  and  frightful  danger  and  awful 
death,  man  has,  year  by  year,  worked  at  tlie  solution  of  the 
problem  of  the  North.  How  since  Franklin's  time  has  the 
map  grown!  Gulfs,  capes,  islands,  continents  have  been 
traced.  The  blank  space  around  the  end  of  the  earth  grows 
smaller;  perhaps  the  man  lives  who,  solitary  and  alone,  shall 
stand  where  never  man  stood  before,  to  say:  'This  is  the 
Pole.' " 

Again,  let  us  cite  that  incontrovertible  Arctic  authority. 
General  A.  W.  Greely,  and  quote  his  admirable  address  on  the 

SCOPE  AND  VALUE  OF  ARCTIC  EXPLORATIONS, 

delivered  before  the  Sixth  International  Geographical  Con- 
gress, held  at  London,  in  July,  1895: 

"In  a  brief  twenty  minutes  one  can  touch  only  in  a  desul- 
tory way  on  this  great  topic  that  engages  the  thought  and  at- 
tention of  so  many  famous  members  of  th(-  Geographical  Con- 
gress, yet  a  somewhat  general  outline  of  the  scope  and  value 
of  Arctic  exploration  may  not  be  amiss. 

"This,  however,  is  neither  time  nor  place  to  present  in 
detail  those  phases  of  Arctic  exploration  that  appeal  so 
strongly  to  the  popular  fancy.  If  one  would  gain  an  ade- 
quate idea  of  the  true  aspects  of  such  voyaging,  he  must  turn 
to  the  original  journals,  penned  in  the  great  White  North  by 
brave  men  whose  'purpose  held  to  sail  beyond  the  sunset.' 


More  Dangerous  than  Arctic  Exploration. 
Accident  on  the  Matterhorn,  August,  1893. 


'!  Wo  pressed  lip  closo  til  tlu"  riK'k.  wluMi  tho  tw..  Klx.t   ....  f  „        ti  .    . 

tOKotlier.    Seller  passed  close  to  u-.    *    *  S.     u,,.n2V  h  ""^'^  ":  •    ^'i"'*'  ^^"'i'  tied 

and  the  rope  waJsUetVluMliL/hll^^betwoon  then,"''  ""'"  ""'  "™'"^'  *'"'  ^''""  ^^^J', 


■ 

i 


Sir  John  Franklin. 

Dr.  Hayes. 
Lieut.  Schwatka. 


Mr.  Bonsail. 


Or.  Kane. 

Capt.  Hall. 

Lieut.  De  Long. 


(See  Chapters  VI.,  XI.,  XVI.,  XXV.,  XXVIII..  XXX.,   XXXI,,   XXXII.,  XXXIV., 

XXXVII.,  un.l  XXXIX.) 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  17 

"In  thm'  volumes  will  be  found  tales  of  ships  beset  not 
only  months,  but  years;  of  ice  packs  and  ice  fields  of  extent 
thickness,  and  nmss  so  enormous  that  description  conveys  no' 
just  idea;  of  boat  journeys  where  constant  watchfulness  alone 
prevented  instant  death  by  drifting  bergs  or  commingling  ice 
floes;  of  land  marches  when  exhausted  humanity  staggered 
along,  lecaving  traces  of  blood  on  snow  or  rock;  of  sledge  jour- 
neys over  chaotic  masses  of  ice,  when  humble  heroes,  strain- 
ing at  the  drag-ropes,  struggled  on  because  the  failure  of  one 
compromised  the  safety  of  all;  of  solitude  and  monotony,  ter- 
rible in  the  weeks  of  constant  polar  sunlight,  but  almost  un- 
settling the  reason  in  the  months  of  continuous  Arctic  dark- 
ness; of  silence  awful  at  all  times,  but  made  yet  more  start- 
ling by  astounding  phenomena  that  appeal  noiselessly  to  the 
eye;  of  darkness  so  continuous  and  intense  that  the  unsettled 
mind  is  driven  to  wonder  whether  the  ordinary  course  of  na- 
ture will  bring  back  the  sun,  or  whether  the  world  has  been 
cast  out  of  its  orbit  in  the  planetary  universe  into  new  con- 
ditions;  of  cold  so  intense  that  any  exposure  is  followed  by 
instant  freezing;   of  monotonous  surroundings  that  threaten 
with  time  to  unsettle  the  reason;  of  deprivations  wasting  the 
body,  and  so  impairing  the  mind;  of  failure  in  all  things,  not 
only  of  food,  fuel,  clothing,  and  shelter,  for  Arctic  service  fore- 
shadows such  contingencies,  but  the  bitter  failure  of  plans 
and  aspirations,  which  brings  almost  inevitable  despair  in  its 
train. 

"Failure  of  all  things,  did  I  say?  Nay;  failure,  be  it  ad- 
mitted, of  all  the  physical  accessories  of  conceived  and  accom- 
plished action,  but  not  failure  in  the  higher  and  more  essen- 
tial attributes— not  of  the  mental  and  moral  qualities  that 
are  the  foundation  of  fortitude,  fidelity,  and  honor.  Failure 
in  this  latter  respect  has  been  so  rare  in  Arctic  service  as  to 
justly  make  such  offender  a  byword  and  scorn  to  his  fellow- 
laborers  and  successors. 

"Patience,  courage,  fortitude,  foresight,  self-reliance,  help- 
fulness-these  grand  characteristics  of  developed  humanity 
everywhere,  but  which  we  are  inclined  to  claim  as  special  en- 


18 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


I 


ilownionts  of  tho  ranrasian  racc^— find  amplo  expression  in 
t\w  (Iclaih'd  liiMlury  of  Arctic  exploration.  If  one  hih>I<h  to 
learn  1o  what  extent  man's  determination  and  effort  dominate 
even  the  most  a«lverse  environment,  the  simi)Ie  narratives  of 
Arctic  expNwation  will  not  fail  to  fnrnish  strikin},^  examples. 
"There  is  a  widesjjread  im|>ression  that  all  Arctic  voyaj-cs 
have  been  made  for  practically  the  sanie  j-cneral  i)nrpose; 
whereas  polar  research  has  passed  thronj^h  three  distinctive 
pliases:  First,  for  strictly  commercial  i)nrpo8es  in  connection 
Avith  trade  to  the  Indies;  second,  for  advancement  of  geo- 
graphical, knowledge,  and,  third,  for  scientific  investij-ations 
eonnected  with  physical  sciences. 

"(Commercial  interests  dictated  the  grand  series  of  voyages 
wherein  P]ngland,  competing  with  Spain  from  the  period  of 
the  ventures  of  the  Cabots  to  the  discoveries  of  Baffin,  sought 
for  a  short  route  to  the  Indies,  across  the  pole  or  by  a  north- 
west passage.  As  the  futility  of  efforts  by  these  routes  be- 
came more  or  less  apparent,  and  as  the  naval  strength  of 
Spain  and  Portugal  ensured  their  continued  monopoly  of  the 
growing  and  valuable  trade  of  the  Orient,  the  attention  of 
England  was  tuined  in  sheer  desperation  to  the  northeast 
passage  as  possibly  offering  a  competing  route.  While  this 
quest  proved  impracticable  for  the  sailing  ships  of  the  six- 
teenth century,  yet  its  prosecution  inured  to  the  great  finan- 
cial advantage  of  England  through  the  establishment  thereby 
of  intimate  and  exclusive  commercial  relations  with  the  grow- 
ing and  hitherto  inaccessible  empire  of  Kussia. 

"The  renewal  of  the  true  spirit  of  geographi<'al  exploration 
in  the  early  j^art  of  the  presinit  century  gave  rise  to  a  series 
of  unparalleled  voyages  in  search  of  the  northwest  passage, 
Avhich  resulted  in  the  most  splendid  geographical  achieve- 
ments of  the  century.  These  voyages  were  not  splendid  alone 
from  the  definite  results  attained,  nor  from  the  almost  super- 
human efforts  that  ensured  success,  but  also  from  the  lofty 
spirit  of  endeavor  and  adventure  that  inspired  the  actors. 
The  men  who  strove  therein  were  lured  by  no  hope  of  gain,' 
influenced  by  no  spirit  of  conquest,  but  were  moved  solely 


OR,    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


19 


pssion  in 
Hovka  to 
lonnnato 
sitivcN  of 
xaini»l('s. 
voyaj-cs 
l»urp()H(», 
sfinctive 
nuoetion 
:  of  jifw)- 
[^{{•ations 

voyaj?es 
►oi'iod  of 

I,  SOUfJfllt 

a  north- 
•utes  be- 
^njith  of 
y  of  the 
ntion  of 
ortbeast 
iile  this 
the  six- 
it  finaii- 
thereby 
le  grow- 

loration 
a  series 
lassage, 
achieve- 
ill  alone 
t  super- 
tie  lofty 
actors. 
Df  gain, 
I  solely 


by  the  belief  that  nuin  should  know  even  tlie  most  desolate 
regions  of  his  abiding  place,  the  earth,  and  the  determination 
that  the  Anglo-Saxon  should  do  his  part. 

"Franklin  said:  'Arctic  discovery  has  been  fostered  from 
motives  as  disinterested  as  they  an*  enliglitened;  not  from 
any  prospect  of  immediate  benefit,  but  from  a  steady  view  to 
the  acquir(>ment  of  useful  knowledge  and  the  extension  of 
the  bounds  of  science,  and  its  contributions  to  natural  history 
and  science  have  excited  a  general  interest.  The  loss  of  life 
in  the  prosecution  of  these  discoveries  does  not  exceed  the 
average  deaths  in  the  same  population  at  home.'  Parry  adds: 
'Such  enterprisers,  so  disinterested  as  well  as  useful  in  their 
object,  do  honor  even  when  they  fail.  They  cannot  but  excite 
the  admiration  of  every  liberal  mind.' 

"Of  Chancellor's  voyage  to  the  northeast  Milton  said :  'The 
discovery  of  Russia  by  the  Northern  Ocean  ♦  •  ♦  might 
have  seemed  an  enterprise  almost  heroic  if  any  higher  end 
than  excessive  love  of  gain  and  traffic  had  animated  the  de- 
sign.' Modern  critics  except  from  dispraise  the  gallant  men 
who  in  this  century  have  given  their  lives  from  no  sordid  mo- 
tive, and  so  merit  Milton's  full  praise. 

"If  not  all,  certainly  some  of  these  arctics  have  been  ani- 
mated with  the  noble  thought  of  the  poet: 

"And  this  gray  spirit  yearning  in  desire 
To  follow  knowledge  like  a  shining  star 
Beyond  the  utmost  bound  of  human  thought.' 

"Suffice  it  is  to  say,  for  geogfraphic  research,  that  it  has  re- 
mained for  the  nineteenth  century,  with  its  wealth  of  indus- 
trial inventions  and  store  of  indomitable  energy,  to  make  the 
northwest  and  northeast  passages,  to  outline  the  northern 
siw'  1       ,'"'"'  f  f  *"  ^^''"'"'  *^^  archipelagoes  and  islands 

"Hudson's  voyage  to  the  Greenland  sba,  in  1607  was  of 
vast  industrial  and  commercial  importance,  for  his  d  seover  ' 
and  reports  of  the  incredible  number  of  walruses  and  whales 


20 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


timt  froqncntcd  thoHo  sonH  /ajavc  i'Imc  to  tho  Spltzborpon  whnle 
liNhcr.v. 

"The  vojaj?"  of  Poolo  for  walruHCH  and  cxplonUioii,  in 
1(>10,  was  followc^l  by  tlu*  cNtiiblisliiiK'nt  of  the  wlialc  fishery 
by  E<lj;c  in  tlw  following;  .year.  Knterprisinj^  Holland  sent 
its  ships  in  l(n.'{,  later  brinj^inj;  in  its  train  wlialors  from 
nrcincn,  Franco,  and  other  niarilinie  centers.  The  wliale 
lisherv,  as  (he  most  important  of  Arctic  indnstries,  from  which 
Holland  alone  drew  from  the  SpilzberpMi  seas  in  one  hun<lred 
and  ten  .years,  1(m!>-177S,  i)rodncts  valned  at  abcmt  |90,00(),00(>, 
merits  a(  least  our  brief  attention. 

"(Jrad  writes:  The  Dutch  sailors  saw  in  Spitsbergen 
waters  };reat  whales  in  innnenst*  numbers,  whose  catch  would 
be  a  source  of  apparently  inexhaustible  riches.  For  two  cen- 
turies fleets  of  whalers  frecpiented  its  seas.  The  rush  to  the 
gold-bearin'-  placers  of  California  and  the  mines  of  Australia 
a  Horded  in  our  day  the  only  examples  at  all  c(miparable  to 
the  host  of  men  attracted  by  the  northern  fishery.' 

"Scoresby  says:  'In  a  short  time  (whaling)  proved  the 
most  lucrative  and  the  most  imi)ortant  branch  of  national 
commerce  which  had  ever  been  offertnl  to  man.'  This  em- 
phatic statement  is  devoid  of  exaggeration  in  the  slightest 
degree.  Scoresby  gives,  year  by  year,  the  products  of  the 
Dutch  whale  fishery  in  the  Arctic  seas  from  10G8  to  177g, 
which  aggregate  in  value  over  |100,000,000.  When  it  is  known 
that  Scoresby  himself  caught  in  thirty  voyages  fish  to  the 
value  of  11,000,000,  it  will  not  be  considered  extravagant  to 
place  the  products  of  the  British  whale  fishery  at  |250,000,000. 
Starbuck  gives  the  product  of  the  American  whale  fishery 
from  1804  to  1877  as  |332,000,000,  making  the  aggregate  of 
three  nations — America,  England,  and  Holland — more  than 
1080,000,000.  How  far  this  amount  should  be  incrensei^  on 
account  of  seal,  walrus,  and  other  strictly  Arctic  ,:icu  j-ame 
need  not  be  considered,  but  Norwegian  and  llussian  fishers 
have  successfully  exploited  these  sources  for  the  past  century. 
"The  visit  of  Liakoff  to  the  New  Siberian  Islands  added 
eventually  a  *^  e.  \l.}\  of  fossil  ivory  to  Siberian  trade  that  was 


I 


>ra(i()ii,  in 
iil«'  fislu'ry 
Hand  Hciit 
ilci'H  from 
"he  whale 
I'oiii  which 
i-  Innuircd 
[)0,0()(),00(), 

pitzbcrgt'ii 
teh  wouhl 
r  two  cen- 
iish  to  the 
AuHtralia 
larablo  to 

I'ovetl  the 
f  national 
This  em- 
'  slighte«t 
ts  of  the 
^  to  1778, 
;  is  known 
sh  to  the 
vagant  to 
)0,000,000. 
lie  fishery 
jregate  of 
aoic  than 
reise*^  on 

an  fishers 

t  century. 

ids  added 

that  was 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD,  21 

only  second  in  value  to  the  extraordinary  stock  of  furs  that 
KH'w  out  of  the  exi)h)rutions  of  (he  Arctic  valley  of  the  Kollnm 
In  UuHsian  hunters.     From  Hudson's  voyage  to  the  bay  of  his 
Manie  are  attributable  the  initiation  and  deveh»pment  of  the 
extrenu.ly  valnabh'  fur  tiv-le  of  the    Ihidson    Hay  Company 
IN'iing  faih-d  to  outline  the  definite  geographic  relations  of 
tiM'  contiguous  sh<»res  of  Asia  ami  America,  but  his  voyages 
•liicetly  resulted  in  the  very  extensive  seu  and  land  fur 'trade 
winch  has  proved  so  profitable  through  a  century  and  a  half 
"Altogether  it  may  be  assume<l  that  in  a  little  over  two 
.'iiluries  the  Arctic  regions  have  furnished  to  the  civilized 
W(,rM  products  aggregating  twelve  hundred  millions  of  dollars 
in  value. 

"Nor  should  it  be  inferred  that  commercial  ends,  scientific 
knowledge,  or  the  glory  of  effort  crystallized  in  accomplish- 
"H'ut  have  alone  turned  man  to  the  polar  regions.  The  altru- 
isfic  spirit  of  Egede  lavished  its  wealth  of  effort  in  the  Mim- 
ing of  the  (}reenlan<l  Eskimo  to  Christianity  and  civilization: 
and  It  enkindled  the  flame  of  Christian  endeavor  that  Crantz 
and  the  Moravian  brethren  kept  alive  during  the  critical 
phases  of  Greenland's  history.    As  Cowper  says: 

'See  Germany  send  forth 

Her  sons  to  pour  it  on  the  farthest  north. 

Fired  with  a  zeal  peculiar,  they  defy 

The  rage  and  rigor  of  a  polar  sky 

And  plant  successfully  sweet  Sharon's  rose 

On  ley  plains  and  In  eternal  snows.' 

"In  recent  days  Great  Britain  has  had  its  Duncan,  France 
Its  Petitot,  and  the  United  States  its  Jackson,  whose  evangel- 
izing labors,  acting  through  the  more  successful  method- 
tluit  of  inculcating  civilization  and  helpfulness-are  a  part 

ITaf'"'^  "'/'"'  .'"""•     ^^''  ^^^^^^^^"^^  "f  "'>!">  among  the 

Mve  ^t T  '"h  T"":  '"*'  '''  '''''''  ^'^^^  t^^'  Etah  Esirimos 
ha^e,  It  is  to  be  hoped,  not  been  fruitless  along  these  lines 

and  should  stinnilate  human  sympathy  for  these  dwellers  on 

the  northern  edge  of  the  world.     Every  lover  of  mankind  will 

rejoice  that  Denmark,  with  the  Christian  solicitude  that  has 


: 


^ 


I     ' 


■Hilt : 


22 


THE   SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


always  marked  its  policy  towards  the  Greenlr.nders,  has  ex- 
tended its  unprofitable  trade  relations  to  East  Greenland  and 
established  a  missionary  station  at  Angmagsalik  for  the  bene- 
fit of  the  natives.  May  we  not  hope  that  some  religious  asso- 
ciation may  likewise  plant  the  seeds  of  civilization  and  Chris- 
tianity among  the  Cape  York  Eskimos? 

"There  is  neither  intent  nor  time  to  eulogize  worthily  the 
deeds  of  living  Arctic  men,  nor  even  to  stimulate  the  eager 
rising  youth  who  shall  outdo  all  that  has  gone  before;  rather 
would  this  brief  word  add  a  leaf  of  laurel  to  the  crowned  dead 
whose  Arctic  fame  forms  part  of  each  nation's  historic  heritage 
— hallowed  for  the  past,  priceless  for  the  present,  indispensa- 
ble for  successful  futurity. 

"Shall  I  name  the  soldiers  or  sailors,  the  explorers  or  sci- 
entists, the  trader  or  the  whaler?  Rather  all,  since  science 
knows  neither  station  nor  profession,  neither  dialect  nor  na- 
tionality. 

•  "In  the  roll-call  of  the  dead,  Austria-Hungary  answers  with 
Weyprecht,  whose  greatest  fame  will  ever  be  associated  with 
the  establishment  of  the  international  polar  stations. 

"Denmark  follows,  equally  at  home  in  American,  Asiatic, 
or  European  waters,  through  Munk  and  Hamke,  Jan  Mayen 
and  Vitus  Bering. 

"Then  France  with  Dela  Croyere,  Pages,  Blosseville,  Fabre, 
Gaimard,  Marmiei,  Martins,  and  Bellot,  the  last  a  name  ever 
grateful  to  English  ears. 

"Germany  has  generously  loaned  her  talent  to  insure  suc- 
cess wherever  sound  and  important  scientific  work  is  to  be 
done.  Baer,  Bessell,  Petermann,  and  Steller  are  worthy  suc- 
cessors to  Frederick  Martens,  of  the  seventeenth  century — 
men  and  work  of  which  any  nation  may  be  proud. 

"Holland,  in  Barents,  Nay,  Tetgales,  Kip,  and  Ileemskerck, 
presents  a  roll  of  honor  well  in  keeping  with  the  notable  work 
of  the  thousands  of  Dutch  whalers  that  exploited  the  Spitz- 
bergen  seas. 


"The  Italian  contingent,  from  tl 


■—    — iii  VI    tuc   luiirLtrfUiii 


JJC      £JCi 


ourteenth 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  23 

century  through  the  Cabots  to  Bove  <,t  our  owu  day,  maintain 
licre,  as  elsewhere,  their  geographic  standiu" 

".Norwegian  Othere  set  in  the  ninth  century  the  pioneer 
standard  o    Arctic  exploration,  which  later,  combined  wu" 

he  labor  of  cploiting  the  northern  seas,  h.;  Mattilas!  Carl 
sen  lobiesen,  and  a  score  of  others  as  worthy  successors 

"Russia  finds  the  Arctic  problem  a  domestic  quesUon    and 
from  the  tune  of  Peter  the  Cirea.t  to  to-day  has  done  an  amount 
of  work  not  generally  appreciated  or  known     The  LaZeffs 
and  Deshneff,  Tchirikof,  and  Liakoff,  Anjon  and  Wrint^ 
kotzebue  and  Lutke,  Pachtussof,  Krusonstern  and  Zholka 
stand  forth  in  the  annals  of  the  world 

"In  lledenstriim  and  Torrell,  Sweden  finds  examples  that 
have  borne  such  abundant  fruit  in  the  late  active  labors  o 
her  enthusiastic  sons.  laoors  ot 

and?ur./\"'''-"'"'  *'';'"  *""  """'«"->•  J-'llar  was  the  object 

:t  rth^mSrbrrri:;  wSi- r  tr""-  r  ""^- 

uiea,  the  men  of  the  new  world  rose  to  a  hioher  nlace  in 
European  estimation.  *        ^  ^" 

JohnV'r' nHhrrr'"  "'  ""T  ''''''  '  ''''''^  ««^^'-  "°^^-  ^ir 
Fr.nl.  '  •''"'^'"S"  ^^'''    li"n^lreds    enoao-ed    in    the 

Flank  m  search  none  Lad  a  more  altruistic  and  ^vmnLlJvit 
than  the  American  Elisha  Kent  Kane     ITiZllf/       i ^ 
'•"<Iared  to  reach  his  'Open  p'dar  Z  '     P  f  "<>  danger 

Arctic  ice  as  in  the  ^yaI  for  t^  rnion      D    f ''    "'f  ""'  '° 

™  1  ar"l    m'  Ir";  "ff'  '""'  "•'"'  f-"'"t"""  ■>»■'  ■sweetness 

h„."L'r  1™,^;''':^^'''^  •■>"""  "f  «*-"  o«<.H  in  a  rteld  that 
--o.am:ner=::-:^-:!-a;T:-^ 


24 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE   NORTH   POLE; 


out  representatives,  worthy  examplers  of  British  courage  and 
effort?  Like  Macbeth's  kings,  the  line  stretches  out  to  crack 
of  doom. 

"Great  were  the  daring  navigators  of  the  sixteenth  and 
seventeenth  centuries— Chancellor  and  Davis  and  Frobisher, 
Hudson  and  Waymouth,  Bylot  and  BaflQu;  but  were  they 
greater  than  in  their  way  were  Cook,  Ilearne,  and  Mackenzie 
in  the  eighteenth? 

"And  when  we  come  to  their  worthy  compeers  of  this  cen- 
tury, there  is  barely  room  for  the  names  of  these  daring  spirits. 
Here  is  Britain's  unequaled  roll: 

"Austin,  Back,  Beechey,  Buchan,  Clavering,  Collinson,  Cro- 
zier,  Forsyth,  Goodsir,  Inglefield,  Kellett,  Kennedy,  Lefroy, 
Lyon,  McClure,  Maguire,  Mecham,  Moore,  the  immortal  Nel- 
son, Osborn,  Penny,  Pirn,  Rae,  Bichardson,  James  C.  Ross, 
John  Ross,  Sabine,  Saunders,  Scoresby,  father  and  son;  Simp- 
son, and  Stewart. 

"Close  communion  in  spirit  and  thought  with  their  record- 
ed labors  for  many  years  has  made  for  me  many  friends 
among  the  great  Arctic  dead,  and  so  particularly  segregates 
in  my  mind,  from  this  alphabetical  list,  the  twin  Arctic  com- 
peers, Franklin  and  Parry,  as  facile  princeps  in  this  great  com- 
pany. 

"Rut  the  history  of  these  men  is  inextricably  interwoven 
with  the  wonderful  development  of  the  British 'Empire,  and 
their  deeds  forever  abi*le  to  the  glory  of  the  English  speakin^r 
race.  •  *' 

"And  of  the  Arctic  dead  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  America, 
from  the  earliest  Othere  of  Norway  and  tlie  Zeni  of  Italy  to 
the  latest  fallen  in  Sweden,  Nordenskiold  the  younger,  prom- 
ising son  of  his  distinguished  father,  there  may  well  be  quoted 
the  words  of  an  American  soldier: 

'On  Fame's -eternal  camping  ground 

Their  silent  tents  are  spread, 
And  Glory  guards  with  solemn  round 
The  bivouac  of  the  dead.' 


OR,    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE    WORLD. 


25 


"Storm-Stayed  and  ice-beset  no  longer,  their  dust  awaits 
the  change  and  fate  ordained  by  God's  eternal  laws. 

"The  end  they  sought,  the  work  they  wrought,  the  courage 
and  devotion  they  showed,  should  stand  as  ideals  and  patterns 
for  the  men  of  the  future  in  the  accoujiplishment  of  the  great 
Arctic  work  which  it  shall  be  their  good  fortune  to  undertake. 

"But  now  we  look  again  to  England  to  retake  its  former 
place  in  Arctic  research.  iShall  we  look  in  vain?  I  believe 
not. 

"Let  her  remember  that  the  beginning  of  the  end  will  have 
come  for  the  ever-extending  and  ever-developing  British  power 
when  this  insular  people  would  ever  consent,  for  any  sum  in 
pounds  and  pence,  that  the  Arctic  relics  of  Greenwich  should 
be  scattered,  or  that  there  should  ever  be  removed  from  West- 
minster Abbey,  rich  with  its  clustering  memories  and  gath- 
ered treasures  of  a  thousand  years,  the  tribute  of  genius  to 
heroism,  of  England's  poet  laureate  to  its  Arctic  dead. 

"Well  has  it  been  for  Britain  that  hundreds  of  its  youth 
have  imbibed  together  learning  and  patriotism,  love  of  the 
beautiful  and  admiration  for  glory,  while  translating  into 
classic  verse  these  immortal  words: 

'Not  here.    The  white  north  has  thy  bones,  and  thou, 

Heroic  sailor  soul, 
Art  passing  on  thine  happier  voyage  now 

Towards  no  earthly  pole.'  " 

Contrary  to  popular  belief,  the 

LOSS  OF  LIFE  IN  ARCTIC  RESEARCH 

has  been-  remarkably  small.  Of  all  the  men  engaged  in  the 
search  for  Franklin,as  well  as  in  Arctic  explorations  since  then 
less  than  two  per  cent  died  through  such  service,  and  in  the 
more  recent  voyages  the  casualties  have  not  equailed  those 
ordinarily  occurring  among  the  ships  on  naval  duty  in  othev 
regions  of  the  globe.  Says  Lieutenant  Maury:  "The  losses  by 
wreckage  around  the  British  Lsles  during  a  single  year  ex- 
eeeded  the  aggregate  of  all  those  within  the  histnrv  nf  .^n-tic 
exploration."  ""  "' 


26 


■  liriti 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


1 


: 


Experience  has  also  demonstrated  that  the  health  of  men 
when  properly  provisioned  and  equipped  is  even  better  north 
of  the  Arctic  Circle  i lian  in  lower  latitudes.  These  conditions 
met,  in  that  region  is  made  the  best  blood  in  the  Avorld,  as 
l)ure  and  vigorous  as  the  air  which  there  purifies  and  en- 
livens it. 

The  fact  that 

PRIVATE  ENTERPRISE 

has  done  so  much  during  the  past  four  hundred  years  toward 
acquiring  a  scientitic  knowledge  of  the  polar  regions  is  a  hope- 
ful indication  of  the  spirit  of  pure  benevolence  in  man,  the 
exercise  of  which  has  already  in  the  aggregate  led  to  practical 
results  of  great  value.  A  cursory  glance  at  the  history  of 
some  of  the  Arctic  expeditions  will  show  this.  Beginning 
with  Sebastian  Cabot,  in  1553,  who  will  now  venture  to  ques- 
tion the  utility  of  the  private  and  governmental  expense  of 
sending  him  in  search  of  a  passage  which  he  did  not  find? 
For  he  found  something  better— he  found  land.  Had  Frobish- 
er's  voyages  a  (luarter  of  a  century  later  beeu  undertaken  with 
a.  spirit  of  exploration  and  scientific  research,  instead  of  a 
desire  for  gold,  his  fifteen  years  spent  in  pleading  with  the 
nobility  of  England  for  funds  would  not  have  gone  for  naught. 
Greed  said  nothing  was  as  valuable  as  gold,  and  when  that 
was  not  to  be  M)und,  all  else  failed.  The  true  spirit  of  ex- 
ploration Avould  at  that  time  have  discovered  the  whale  and 
seal  fisheries  of  Baffin's  Bay,  and  even  the  waters  of  Hudson's 
Bay.  Davis,  however,  under  the  generous  patronage  of  his 
friend  Sanderson,  in  1585,  skirted  the  wes^t  coast  of  Greenland, 
and  endeavored  to  lighten  expenses  by  fishing.  The  desire 
for  gain  was  made  of  secondary  importance.  Kussia,  too,  has 
supplied  her  share  of  liuniau  benefactors;  for  Schalaroff,  in 
1758,  built  a  vessel  at  his  own  expense  and  sought  to  sail  along 
the  north  coast  of  Siberia,  and  Wrangell,  although  making 
his  journeys  with  but  four  or  five  white  companions  as  the 
accredited  representative  of  the  Naval  Department,  reduced 
expenses  by  the  employment  of  native  help.    Eoss,  after  hav- 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   GItEAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


27 


h  of  men 
ter  north 
onditions 
kvorld,  as 
and  en- 


s  toward 
s  a  hope- 
iiiau,  the 
practical 
istory  of 
eginning 

to  qiies- 
pense  of 
lot  find? 
Frobish- 
ken  with 
ead  of  a 
with  the 
•  naught, 
hen  that 
it  of  ex- 
hale and 
iludson's 
;e  of  his 
eenland, 
le  desire 

too,  has 
laroff,  in 
ail  along 

making 
s  as  the 

reduced 
Pter  hav- 


ing spent  115,000  of  his  own,  obtained  the  generous  patronage 
of  Felix  Booth,  by  whom  he  was  sent,  in  1829,  on  the  voyage 
which  resulted,  two  years  later,  in  the 

DISCOVERY  OF  THE  NORTH  MAGNETIC  POLE. 

whereby  the  navigation  of  the  seas  and  the  surveying  of  all 
northern  lands  is  rendered  more  certain.  Moreover,  this  voy- 
age led  to  the  introduction  of  steam-power  into  Arctic  naviga- 
tion. Back's  famous  and  highly  satisfactory  expedition  was 
made  possible  by  means  of  a  public  subscription  of  120,000 
and  an  addition  of  |10,000  by  the  Government.  A  quarter  of 
a  century  later  much  of  the  funds  raised  in  conducting  the 
search  for  Franklin  was  raised  by  private  subscriptions.  From 
these,  Inglefield,  in  1852,  was  equipped  not  only  by  means  of 
contributions  in  money,  but  by  individual  donations  of  tents, 
sledges,  traveling  apparatus,  and  countless  other  articles. 
Kane,  in  1853,  was  "backed"  by  Henry  Grinnell  and  George 
Peabody,  while  various  scientific  societies  also  contributed 
liberally  in  money  and  articles  of  equipment.  Hayes,  after 
persistent  efforts  during  five  years,  succeeded  in  organizing 
his  expedition  in  1860.  He  first  presented  his  cause  before  the 
American  Geographical  Society  and  then  before  the  American 
Association  for  the  Advancement  of  Science.  The  association 
at  once  appointed  a  committee  of  sixteen  to  assist  him  in  the 
furtherance  of  his  plans.     Eventually 

FOUR  HUNDRED  BUSINESS  MEN  AND  FIRMS 

in  Albany,  Boston,  New  York  and  Philadelphia  subscribed 
liberally  to  the  enterpri  e  and  the  Smithsonian  Institution 
supplied  the  necessary  scientific  instruments.  Hayes  also  ap- 
plied toward  the  expenses  of  the  expedition  the  funds  secured 
by  lecturing.  Hall,  the  son  of  a  blacksmith,  having  first  di- 
vulged his  plans  to  a  few  intimate  friends,  received  encour- 
agement from  United  States  Senator  Chase,  Governor  Den- 
nison  and  others,  while  individuals  and  societies  made 
response  in  additional  funds  and  equipment. 

Free  transportatiou  was  also  granted  his  expedition  by  one 


28 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


1 


of  the  steamship  lines.  In  1869  the  organizers  of  the  Second 
German  Expedition  issued  an  appeal  for  funds  and  donations 
"to  the  towns  of  the  fatherland,"  and  in  reply  received  the 
hearty  co-operation  of  their  countrymen. 

The  King  of  Prussia  took  a  personal  interest  in  the  suc- 
cess of  the  enterprise  in  a  nmnner  indicative  of  a  great  mind 
and  a  kind  heart.  The  Austro-llungarian  Expedition,  in 
1872,  was  sent  out  largely  at  the  expense  of  Count  Wilczek. 
Its  discovery  of  Franz-Josef  Land  in  the  following  year  gave 
an  important  vantage-ground  to  future  explorers  of  the  Arctic 
Ocean.  Schwatka,  in  1878,  was  supplied  with  provisions  and 
equipment  from  private  sources,  and  was  given  free  transpor- 
tation by  Messrs.  Morrison  and  Brown.  In  the  same  year 
the  "Vega,"  with  twenty  men.  Professor  Nordenskiold  in 
charge,  was  equipped  at  an  expense  to  the  state  of  only  $9,500, 
the  remainder  being  made  up  by  individual  contributions. 
De  Long,  in  1879,  undertook  his  ill-starred  expedition  almost 
entirely  through  the  liberality  of  James  Gordon  Bennett.  The 
Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition  of  1881-4,  Lieutenant  Greely 
commanding,  although  a  "Government  enterprise,"  was  fitted 
out  at  an  expense  of  only  |25,000,  three-fourths  of  which  went 
to  charter  the  vessel,  and  less  than  |6,000  for  supplies  for  a 
party  of  twenty-five  men.  Ilad  the  provisions  alone  been 
supplemented  by  private  donations  and  deposited  at  Cape 
Sabine  and  other  desirable  points,  on  the  outward  voyage, 
the  awful  tragedy  at  Camp  Clay  would  not  have  occurred. 
Dr.  Nansen's  first  crossing  of  Greenland,  in  1888,  was  a  suc- 
cessful private  undertaking.  Mr.  August  Gemel  became  his 
financial  "backer,"  while  the  "Committee  of  Students'  Union" 
and  large  numbers  of  his  countrymen  added  liberally  to  the 
expeniitionary  fund.  Nansen's  great  success  in  this  led  him 
to  undertake,  in  1893,  the  great  voyage  ^he  outcome  of  which 
the  whole  world  awaits  with  intense  interest.  Mav  no  future 
historian  have  to  record  that  the  brave  voyagers  of  the  "Fram" 
failed  for  lack  of  supplies,  or  for  lack  of  assistance  on  the 
part  of  a  world  reveling  in  luxury  while  men  stand  ready  and 
willing  to  carry  that  assistance  at  any  opportune  moment. 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


29 


All  of  Peary's  expositions  were  private  ventures,  the  funds  for 
the  same  being  raised  from  h  i  uring,  newspaper  correspond- 
ence and  other  individual  sources. 

Elsewhere,  in  our  reference  to  Lieutenant  Peary's  Expedi- 
tion, AVill  be  found  a  concise  statement  of  views  which  we 
have  long  entertained. 

In  the  preparation  of  this  volume  the  author  has  not  done 
so  without  careful  study  and  a  certain  amount  of  more  val- 
uable experience.  Both  have  enabled  him  ,to  select  and  ar- 
range the  material  so  as  to  save  the  reader  a  great  expense 
both  of  time  and  money  were  he  to  attempt  to  inform  himself 
concerning  North  Polar  research  by  the  purchase  of  many 
expensive  books  dealing  almost  exclusively  with  separate 
undertakings.  So  far  as  known  to  the  writer,  no  other  at- 
tempt has  ever  been  made  to  present  a  popular,  up-to-date 
narrative  of  Arctic  toil,  and  no  pains  have  been  spared  to 
make  it  replete  Avith  suggestions  for  the  man  of  learning  as 
Avell  as  full  of  information  and  entertainment  for  the  masses. 
Moreover,  its  purpose, 

ITS  MISSION. 

is  to  assist  in  prosecuting  future  exploration— as  will  be 
learned  by  reference  to  the  plans  stated  toAvard  the  close  of 
the  volume.  Should  its  sale  not  even  equal  by  a  fourth  that 
of  some  other  books  of  less  value  and  durability,  and  which 
(some  of  them  not  unlaudably)  have  been  published  solely 
for  the  purpose  of  private  gain,  Ave  shall  be  enabled  to  carry 
out  our  plans  unhampered  for  want  of  funds— Avith  an  abund- 
ance of  food,  clothing,  equipment,  etc.  Men  engaged  in  Arctic 
service  gain  but  little  reward  in  dollars  and  dimes— the-  are 
certainly  entitled  to  a  fair  share  of  bodily  comfort,  and  the 
expedition  that  cannot  reasonably  provide  for  this  should  not 
venture  poleward— be  it  either  north  or  south.  Had  some  of 
the  past  "failures"  occurred  before  starting,  how  different 
Avould  be  the  record  of  results!  Men  are  now  agreed  that  the 
return  voyage  should  be  as  carefully  provided  for  as  the 
outward  trip.    The  liberal  patronage  of  our  friends  and  read- 


30 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


ers  not  only  in  dirootly  oxtending  the  circulation  of  this  book, 
but  also  in  many  incidental  ways,  will  help  to  insure  such  a 
result.  In  the  final  outcome,  with  "a  long  pull,  a  strong  pull, 
and  a  pull  all  together,"  each  individual  may  have  the  satisfac- 
tion of  having  done  something  for  the  common  good'and  in 
rendering  success  more  certain. 

Already,  in  the  production  of  these  pages— the  study  and 
exploration  directly  represented — have  three  of  the  best  years 
of  the  author's  life  found  expression,  for  the  most  part  in 
recording  the  work  of  others,  yet  not  without  fond  hopes  in 
the  future  and  an  unshaken  confidence  in  the  intelligence  and 
patriotism  of  the  American  people  in  promoting  every  cause 
worthy  of  man's  best  efforts. 

Thanking  numerous  friends  and  well-wishers,  among  whom 
are  some  of  the  ablest  minds  of  our  great  commonwealth,  for 
their  generous  encouragement  and  hearty  co-operation,  the 
author  bespeaks  for  the  cause  a  like  response  from  many 
thousands.  In  due  time  we  trust  to  be  able  to  return  all 
favors  in  substantial  and  enduring  ways. 

To  Professor  T.  C.  Chamberlin,  formerly  president  of  Mad- 
ison University,  but  now  head  professor  of  geology,  University 
of  Chicago,  thanks  are  especially  due  for  numerous  favors, 
not  the  least  of  which  are  valuable  suggestions  relating  to  the 
arrangement  of  portions  of  our  manuscript  and  for  his  endur- 
ing interest  in  the  aims  and  objects  proposed. 

To  Mr.  H.  G.  Bryant,  commander  of  the  Peary  Auxiliary 
Expedition  of  1894;  Professor  William  Libbey  of  Princeton 
College;  Mr.  II.  L.  Bridgman,  Managing  Editor  of  the  Brook- 
lyn Standard  Union;  Messrs.  F.  H.  Hild,  B.  M.  Smith,  David 
Oliphant,  W.  B.  Conkey,  W.  J.  Root,  John  Sebastian,  Addison 
C.  Thomas,  George  IT.  Benedict,  Hon.  William  A.  Vincent,  H. 
TI.  Rassweiler,  Samuel  E.Knecht,  Hon. George R. Peck, George T. 
Nicholson,  Professors  W.  H.  Holmes,  E.  B.  Garriott,  and  E.  E. 
Barnard,  the  Members  of  The  Chicago  Academy  of  Sciences, 
and  others  of  Chicago;  Mrs.  N.  C.  Knickerbocker,  Preceptress 
of  Northwestern  College,  the  late  James  L.  Nichols,  Esq.,  and 
Messrs,  Royce  and  Scott,  Naperville,  III ;  Messrs.  Patrick  and 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


81 


Liitlio,  Oos  Moinoa;  Mr.  E.  F.  Burnett,  Now  York;  Major  H.  C. 
JJalc,  Xashvillc;  Major  T.  J.  Andi'ivson,  Topcka;  Mr.  J.  B.  Mar- 
bury,  BaUinioro,  and  to  (Joncral  A.  W.  Greoly,  WaHhington, 
we  feel  specially  obligated  for  their  courteous  interest  at  .all 
times. 


TFSON'S  CREW  SIOHTIKO  TUE  SlX-iCU  WJlAUia  WHICH  OESCUISU  lUEJ 


luui  otr  UiBUiXMU. ' 


Jl 


.  i 


I  U 


32 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


CHAPTER  II. 

EARLY  NORSE.  ENGLISH  AND  DUTCH  VOYAGES. 

The  wind  gocth  toward  the  south,  and  turneth  about  unto  the  north;  It 
whirleth  about  continually,  and  the  wind  rcturncth  again  according  to  hia 
circuits.— Ecclesiastcs  J.  C. 

He  stretcheth  out  the  north  over  the  empty  place,  aiid  hangeth  the  earth 
upon  nothing.— Job  xxvi,  7. 

Thus,  it  may  bo  coiijcctuivd,  tlio  mau  of  uiiich  wisdom  and 
ilie  mau  of  patiouce  oaiii  spoke  "^'^iJHL*'**"'^-  North  I'ohir 
ftgions;  ami,  although  oftou  ba ttlp| ' aW||^orish i u g  in  the 
at':empt,  later  generations  of  mep^have  UOTauutedly  perse- 
vered in  an  ever-enlarging  interpiretd'i^.ojJ  (tf  %e  words  of  iu- 
spiration.  <-^' 


FASCINATING  INDEb 


V  pr 


is  the  story,  and,  though  oft  told,  is  eveiecresh,  with  the  eou- 
ciuding  chapters  increasing  in  interest,  drawing  the  reader 
with  siren-like  power,  irresistibly  onward. 

Fortunately,  one  is  not  compellei!  to  llee  to  mythological 
and  traditional  periods,  to  any  considerable  extent,  for  a  be- 
ginning. The  seal  of  authenticity  appears  to  have  been  welf 
stamped  upon  all  Arctic  matters  from  the  first.  True,  that 
the  ancient  Greeks  considered  Scandinavia  an  island  or  group 
of  islands;  that  Tytheas  of  Marseilles,  sailing  in  330  B.  C. 
to  the  Northern  Sea,  arrived  at  an  island  which  he  called 
Thule,  from  his  native  telos,  meaning  goal,  but  by  which  term 
is  disputable  whether  he  meant  Iceland  or  one  of  the  Shet- 
lands.  The  difference,  however,  is  of  little  moment,  since 
it  is  dear  that  he  had  touched  upon  Arctic  conditions. 
"Here,"  he  says,  "the  sun  never  descends  (sets)  below  the  hori- 
zon for  a  certain  number  of  days  during  the  summer  solstice." 
Had  he  remained  there  during  the  winter  he  would  doubt- 


;o  the  north;   tt 
iccording  to  hia 

mgeth  the  earth 


wisdom  and 
North  rolar 
shiuj;  ill  tlio 
itedly  porso- 

words  of  in- 


vitb  tlie  c'oii- 
^  the  I'cnidc'i' 


tnytholoj^lcal 
nit,  for  a  ho- 
ve been  wolf 
True,  that 
and  or  group 
in  330  B.  C. 
ch  he  called 
f  which  term 
of  the  Shet- 
oment,  since 
I  conditions, 
low  the  hori- 
iier  solstice." 
vould  doubt- 


••Uripor"  July  4,  iMlil    B  "chV.v     /l  i     Ir/.h..  ^  Hi'cchoy.     (».)     "Hocla"  ami 

Mild    "(Jripor^    8,MtPm  ,.,    2()"    isi  i    K' '"'>'•  Tallin  .slay    July,  isiit.     (5.)  "Hccla" 

Htr«if_H.4.cl  ,T.     (7  J    ''Hecla''  an     "•hri,,f.r''''!;''''v;;-  l""^  u"'"L"''^    ^"''^^    "arrows 
(See  CLapter  V.      ^  '    *""'     ^"^""^     •»  Wiuter  Harbor,  181-j-20-Boocljey. 


lil 


(I.I  "Hirla"  iiiKT'Oriper,  'AiiKiistn-iJ,  lsa)"Lt.  Hopi r.     (2.)  Mn^klJiill,  Mi'l- 

villH  lf<laii(l  — Hi'cchcy.  i;i.}  Kskiiiio.s  of  the  "Itivcr  ('I.V(lfi"or  liilcl,  NVc-t  Coii.'^t of 
Hiillin's  Hiiy  HL'crlu'yiiiicI  lloppiii'r.  (4.1  "Fury"  and  •■Hcclii"  at  Ji;-loo-lik,  \V  iiilPr, 
1W2 'ii  -liyoii.  V'.i  ('aii(i(M)f  Savage  Islands,  Hiid.'^iiii's  Strait -Lyon.  ((5.)  Cutting 
into  WintLT  Island. October.  1.S21— Lyon.     (Sot-  C'baptiTs  V.  and  VllL) 


OR,    LIFE    IN   THE  GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


as 


IcMH  have  alHo  addod  that  for  a  like  nuinlx'r  of  dayH  during  the 


winter  HoJHtiee  tlie  sun  never  aHcends  (riseM)  above  the  h(.rizon. 

Folh)vvinj.  the  eiiHtoni  of  jealouH  Htay -at-home  eriticH, 
I'ol.vbiUH  and  Ktrabo  derlare  his  accounts  to  be  "absurd"  and 
incredible.  In  his  "ubsurdity"  lies  the  authenticitv  of  his 
discoveries  and  observations  to  more  modern  inte'llij,n'nee 
That  he  possessed  the  true  spirit  of  discovery  and  observati.m 
IS  apparent  and  it  ai)pears  that  he  was  the  first  to  determine 
the  latitude  of  u  i)lace  from  the  sun's  shadow  and  the  first  t«> 
suspect  that  the  tides  are  induenced  by  the  moon. 

Five  hundred  years  later,  or  about  the  middle  of  the  eighth 
century,  vve  and 

'  THE  BOLD  NORSEMEN 

pushing  westward  from  the  (lensely-i)opulate(l  shores  of  Scan- 
<liiiavia  and  ell'ectino-  permanent  settlements  on  the  Faroe, 
Shetland,  and  Orkney  Islands.  Thence  again  westward  a^<l 
northward  to  Iceland,  hanging  upon  the  Arctic  Circle,  which 
they  settled  permanently  in  A.  D.  874.  Whence,  less  than 
three  hundred  miles  beyond,  and  but  two  years  later,  they 
accidentally  discovered  (h-eenland,  the  importance  of  which, 
however,  did  not  appear  till  its  re-discovery  in  088  by  Eric 
the  Ked  and  its  C(donization  two  years  later. 

Iceland,  we  learn,  was  able  to  maintain  her  independence 
for  four  centuries— A.  1).  1)28-1887— or  until  compelled  to  sub- 
mit to  the  King  of  N(U'way  and  Denmark.       ♦ 

Oreeulaud  also  "prosi)ered"  for  several  centuries,  and  main- 
tained her  bishops  from  A.  D.  1121  to  1409.  The  black  death, 
which  in  three  years,  1348-51,  swept  away  from  Europe  twen- 
ty-five millions  of  her  population,  also  decimated  Iceland  and 
(Ireenland  and  caused  them  to  decline  politicallv  and  com- 
mercially. With  the  removal  of  the  last  bishop  of  (ireenland 
probably  went  the  annalist  of  the  colony,  as,  for  the  next  two 
hundred  years,  there  is  no  written  record. 

Sixty-eight  years  after  the  disai)pearance  of  the  last  bishop 
of  (^ireenland,  and  fifteen  years  before  the  discovery  of  the 
southern  portion  of  North  America  by  Columbus,  we  find  the 


34 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


following  confirmatiou,  written  by  liimself,  that  the  great 
Genoese  was  himself  an  Arctic  voyager.  He  says:  "In  1477 
I  navigated  one  liundred  leagnes  beyond  Thule." 

Five  centnries  before  the  immortal  Christopher  thus  vis- 
ited Iceland,  the  b<dd  Biarne  Ller-julf-son,  in  search  of  his 
father,  had  set  sail  from  Iceland  for  Greenland.  Driven  by 
storm,  he  was  carried  from  his  course  and  did  not  touch  upon 
Greenland  until  after  the  comparatively'  greener  shores  of 
Labrador  or  Newfoundland  had  been  accidentally  discovered. 
Fourteen  years  later,  that  is  in  A.  D.  1000,  Lief  Ericson,  a 
son  of  Eric  the  lied,  with  thirty-live  men  sailed  along  the  coast 
of  Labrador  southw^ard  to  a  pleasant  country  abounding  in 
grapes  and  called  bj^  them  Vinland.  Here  the  ensuing  winter 
was  spent.  Two  years  later  Thorw^ald,  another  son  of  Eric 
the  Ked,  visited  the  place  and  discovered  Cape  Cod.  Thence- 
forAvard  Yinlaud  was  extensively  colonized  from  Greenland 
and  visited  by  the  Norsemen.  Unfortunately,  they  were 
fiercely  attacked  by  the  natives,  and  further  efforts  at  colo- 
nization were  abandoned.  At  the  head  (»r  this  colony  was 
Karlsefne.  To  him  and  to  the  beautiful  and  brave  Gudrid 
was  born  a  son,  Snorri,  the  first  child  born  in  America  to 
European  parents.  To  quote:  "The  boy  was  named  Snorri, 
and  in  his  noble  manhood  founded  one  of  the  most  distin- 
guished families  of  Iceland,  then  the  abode  of  ])rincely  Scan- 
dinavians, witli  their  retinue  of  armed  followers."  This  was 
evidently  in  Hhode  Island,  for,  in  an  old  record  of  the  \Mnland 
colony,  it  is  stated  that  "On  tlie  sliortest  day  the  sun  remained 
nine  hours  above  the  horizon." 

From  this  astronomical  fact  it  a])]>ears  tiiat  the  colony  was 
located  between  41°  and  42°  north  latitude,  which  corresponds 
with  the  situation  of  Ithode  Island.  Moreover,  the  old  stone 
tower  at  Newjjort,  lihode  Island,  an<l  the  ins<'ription  upon 
Dighton  Kock,  on  the  bank  of  the  Taunton  River,  are  man- 
ifestly memorials  of  these  hardy  ])eople. 

\\>  have  already  seen  tiiat,  fifteen  years  after  the  visit  of 
Columbus  to  Iceland,  he  discovered  the  Bahama  Islands,  thus 


)uudina'  in 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  35 

iiiciting  the  English  and  Frencli  to  rival  the  Spanish  in  fur- 
ther discoveries.     The  search  for  a 

NORTHWEST  PASSAGE. 

by  the  Cabots,  leading  to  the  re-discovei-j-  of  Newfoundland 
and  Labrador  in  1497-8  may  be  said  to  be  the  first  in  a  lon^^ 
series  of  voyages  undertaken  for  the  purpose  of  revealing  the 
ice-imprisoned  secrets  of  the  Arctic  world.  In  a  subsequent 
voyage,  undertaken  in  1517,  Sebastian  Cabot  explored  the 
region  now  known  as  Hudson's  Ray,  naming  several  places. 

a'JZ  '?y''.  ^^  Po^''^'^  ^  ^^^"^'^'^  ^'-y^^^^  the  Arctic  Circle 
(06  80')  attaining  G7°  30'. 

The  history  of  this  great  man  during  all  these  vears  is  one 
of  varying  success  and  disappointment  and  we  see\im  now  in 
the  service  of  England,  now  of  Spain.  Meanwhile,  ignorant 
ot  the  vast  extent  or  configuration  of  the  northern  European 
and  Asiatic  continents,  he  had  bec(mie  imbued  with  the  idea 
of  reaching  India  by  a 

NORTHEAST  PASSAGE, 

and  accordingly  in  May,  1553,  under  his  own  and  Koyal  Eng- 
lish patronage,  three  vessels  set  sail,  one  of  which,  becomino- 
separated  from  her  consorts,  returned  to  England  before  the 
close  of  the  year.     Of  the  other  two,  the  one  under  command 
of  liichard  Chancellor  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Dwina  Kiver 
whence  Chancellor,  starting  from  the  monastery  of  St   Xich-' 
•»las,  near  the  present  site  of  Archangel,  made  a  successful 
overland  journey  to  Moscow,  then  the  residence  of  Ivan  IV 
or  Vasilievitch  II.,  "the  '..rrible,"  czar  and  autocrat  of  all 
the  Russians,  with  whom  he  opened  very  friendly  and  mutu- 
ally advantageous  commercial  relations  between  England  and 
Kussia. 

The  third  vessel,  under  command  of  Sir  Hugh  Willoughbv 
became  hemmed  in  by  the  ice  at  the  mouth  of  the  Dwina 
Kiver,  and  all  on  board  were  found  frozen  to  death  the  fol- 
lowing season  by  some  Laplan<l  fishermen.  That  these  men 
sacrificed  themselves  through  ignorance  and  inexperience  is 


36 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


apparent  from  the  fact  that  there  was  sufficient  moss  and 
turf  and  animal-life  on  shore  to  have  amply  sustained  them 
had  they  but  put  forth  efforts  in  that  direction.  Sir  Hugh's 
vessel,  however,  had  penetrated  as  far  as  Nova  Zembla,  which, 
as  will  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  map,  lies  just  north  of  the 
dividing  line  between  Russia  and  Siberia. 

Chancellor  again,  in  1554,  with  four  vessels,  made  a  suc- 
cessful voyage  to  the  monastery  of  St.  Nicholas,  but,  upon 
returning,  was  storm-harassed  and  three  of  his  ships  were 
wrecked,  the  brave  navigator  himself  perishing  in  the  angry 
sea,  while  the  inexperienced  landsman,  one  of  the  Hussian 
ambassadors,  whose  life  he  was  endeavoring  to  save,  escaped. 
Two  years  later,  Stephen  Burrough,  pilot  to  Chancellor,  was 
sent  to  make  further  search  for  the  northeast  pas;  ige  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Obi. 

He  reached  the  strait  between  Nova  Zembla  and  Vaigat's 
Island,  now  known  as  Kara  Gate,  or  Strait,  but  was  driven 
back  by  the  ice  and  so  returned  to  England. 

At  this  time  it  was  thought  that  the  promontory  forming 
the  eastern  cape  of  the  Gulf  of  Obi  was  the  northeastern 
corner  of  Asia  and  that  accordingly  Nova  Zembla  and  Kara 
Strait  were  remote  about  400  miles  from  the  eastern  shore 
of  Asia.  The  distance,  however,  is  about  2,700  nautical  or 
3,100  statute  miles,  extending  through  130°  of  longitude,  more 
than  three-fourths  of  which  lie  above  the  70th  degree,  north 
latitude. 

Efforts  to  solve  the  problem  of  a  northeast  passage  were 
now  abandoned  for  nearly  a  third  of  a  century  and 

NEW  VOYAGES  TO  THE  N0RTHWE;ST 

followed  the  publication  of  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert's  "Discourse 
to  Prove  a  Passage  by  the  Northwest  to  Cathaia"  in  157G,  the 
first  of  the  three  voyages  being  undertaken  the  same  year  by 
Frobisher,  who  had  spent  fifteen  years  pleading  with  the  mer- 
chants and  nobility  of  England  to  provide  the  necessary  funds. 
With  three  small  barks,  the  largest  of  not  over  thirty-five 
tons  burden,  he  set  sail  irom  London,  soon  losing  the  smallest 


sage  were 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  37 

vessel,  whirt  was  sunk  in  a  st.,rm  witU  all  „n  board  The  sec 
"ml  sh.i,  returned  t„  England,  Frobisher  continnin:  „n  ;,r; 
I  at  last  he  reached  the  coasts  of  Greenland  nudulZ 
After  coasting  among  the  Savage  and  Resolution  Islands  ,r 
s»n,e  fnie,  he  went  ashore  on  the  mainland  alled  by  bm 
"Me  a  Incognita,"  i.  e.,  the  "Unknown  Boundary -'now  the 

::",»:"  !wr:;"", '","'"'"  '^••"'"' """  -t"biis^;d  "hI 

uoitl  lactude  and  entered  the  strait  which  he  uan.ed  iu  his 
-»vn  l."u„r.    Kevnrning  to  England  with  a  quautit;..' 

SUPPOSED  GOLD  ORE. 

ho  soon  enlisted  the  avarice  of  his  coimto'men  in  a  second 
ent«.pnse,  and  the  following-  year,  May,  1577,  set  sail  in  three 
^oodly-sizecl  vessels.  Ketarded  by  the  ice  at  the  entrance  of 
FrobLsher  Strait,  he  took  aboard  200  tons  of  the  lustrous  stones 
and  put  about  for  England. 

flo  J"f  ^T"'''"  *^'  """'  ^"'"^  "*^'"PP^^^  ^-^"^t^^r  expedition,  a 
fleet  of  fifteen  vessels  being  placed  under  Frobisher's  com- 
mand TV  ith  these  he,  for  a  third  and  last  time,  encountered  the 
lee  of  he  Meta  Incognita,  one  of  his  largest  vessels  being 
mished  by  an  iceberg  at  the  entrance  of  the  strait,  and  forty 

brirtl '  l"^  "'"  ""*"''  ^'''  ^'^'^  ^'"™^8-^^  ^y  ^^^  irresisti- 
ble ice-floe.  These  mishaps  caused  the  abandonment  of  the 
project  to  establish  a 

MILITARY  COLONY 

Of  100  picked  men  among  the  blubber-fed  natives  of  this  gold- 

stiwn  region,  and  our  fortune-seekers  all  returned  to  Enn- 

and,  carrying  wjth  them  for  3,000  miles  500  tons  more  of  the 

lerZe.r'    '"  ''  "'^^'^  ^^«  --  f«-d  to  be  but  "worth- 

his  min.rr  '"'"''  V''.r'*^^'  ^-hasvlnoa  Frobisher  redeemed 
his  name  from  a  probably  obloquy  by  his  signal  service  in  the 
contest  with  the  Spanish  Armada,  in  1588 

-ucl7f  "'h''  ""-"'  '^''  long-coveted  northwest  passn.e 
-ufeht  for,  this  time  from  the  Pacific  side.    Having  sailed 


u 


38 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


through  the  Straits  of  Magellan  on  his  voyage  round  the  world, 

SIR  FRANCIS  DRAKE 

turned  northward,  plundering  the  coasts  of  Chili  and  Peru 
en  voyage,  hoping  to  discover  the  looked-for  passage,  sailed 
to  latitude  48°  north,  or  to  the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fuca,  now 
on  the  northwestern  boundary  of  the  United  States.  Failing 
in  the  realization  of  his  hopes,  he  proceeded  southward  to  the 
present  location  of  San  Francisco,  nametl  the  country  New 
Albion,  and  returned  to  England  in  1580  by  the  way  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope,  thus  being  the  first  Englishman  to  cir- 
cumnaviagte  the  globe. 

Next  on  the  list  of  Arctic  heroes,  comes  Davis,  who,  in  1585, 
with  two  vessels  christened  the  "Sunshine"  and  "Moonshine," 
of  fifty  and  thirty-five  tons  respectively,  sailed  to  Greenland, 
which  he  very  appropriately  called  the 

LAND  OF  DESOLATION. 

On  August  6th  he  arrived  at  a  point  called  Sukkertoppen,  sail- 
ing whence  farther  nortlmest  to  latitude  66°  40'  he  found  the 
land  free  from  "the  pesters  of  ice,  and  ankered  in  a  very  fair 
rode." 

After  exploring  the  region  of  Cumberland  Sound  and  the 
entrance  to  Frobisher  and  Hudson's  Straits  he  returned  to 
England.  He  thought  that  he  had  dis(>overed  the  entrance  to 
a  sea  communicating  with  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

Curiously  enough,  "to  cheer  and  recreate  the  spirits  of  the 
natives,"  Davis  took  Avith  him  on  this  expedition  a 

BAND  OF  MUSIC, 

the  fame  of  which  spread  far  an'1  wide  among  the  Eskimos, 
who  in  their  kyacks  surrounded  the  vessels  listening  to  the 
strains  of  never-before-heard  music  and  exchanged  valuable 
furs  for  glass  beads  and  other  trinkets. 

Well  does  the  writer  recollect,  having  been  commissioned 
by  Lieutenant  Peary  to  obtain  walrus  meat  from  the  Eskimos 
at  Noxami,  on  Inglefield  Gulf,  in  the  spring  of  1894,  to  have 


•v.  ■  ff'- 


irits  of  the 


0 

OB.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  39 

iM'eu  qnestionecFby  tliese  same  people  concerning  "the  kind 
of  music  had  in  America." 

(Jiving  in  ex,>lanatio„,  by  gesture  and  voice,  a  decidedly 
barbarous  imitation  of  a  "string  band,"  ever  thereafter  and 
wherever  met,  these 

FUN-LOVING  CREATURES 

would  (kMimnd  a  re-perf<.rman(e  of  "K„p.po,  tup,  tup,  rup-pe 
inv  tup  rup-po  tup,  tup,  tup,  tup,"  "John  Brown's  liodv,"  etc 
iM'Ne,  at  any  rate,  W(>re  the  favorite  "airs"  of  old  Kio.gw;e-toh' 

ch;:":;rt -If  "^-^"^-^ '-' '-'-'-'  noMi-goc^„ak, «; 

Davis'  se.-ond  voyage,  undertaKen  in  1580,  with  two  more 
vessels,  the  "Mermaid"  an,l  "North  Star,"  resulted  in  the  dt 
covery  of  the  ,^rait  which  bears  his  name.     Reaching  Green- 
land,  in  latitude  04°,  he  sent  two  vessels  northward  on  tl^e 
cast  coast  while  he  proceeded  along  the  west  coast  as  far  as 
».'  •     The  ice  was  unusually  massive  and  one  field  required 
tliirtc^^n  days  to  pass.    The  cold  winds  froze  the  ropes  and 
sails    o  such  an  extent  that  the  sailors  were  led  to  comnlain 
liat    by  his  boldness  he  might  cause  their  widows  and  father- 
less children  to  give  him  bitter  curses." 

After  making  additional  exploration  of  the  Cumberland 
K>ound  region  and  engaging  in  a 

CONFLICT  WITH  THE  ESKIMOS, 

during  which  three  of  his  men  were  slain  and  two  wounded  he 
returned  to  England.  ' 

Davis,  writing  to  a  friend,  stated  that  he  had  reduced  the 
discovery  of  a  northwest  i)assage  almost  to  a  certainty  His 
third  voyage,  in  ir.ST,  was  prosecuted  as  far  north  as  Sander- 
son's Hope,  in  latitude  72°  12'.  This  point  was  within  a  half 
<Iegree  of  T  pernavik  and  was  so  called  in  honor  of  his  chief 
patron. 

The  vessels  of  the  expedition  were  four  in  number  and 
mted  out  with  the  express  ccmdition  that  expenses  were  to 
->«'  ^ightened  by  stopping  to  fish  wherever  practicable.     Two 


h. 


-J^ 


40 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH   POLE; 


[    PO 


of  the  ships  weue  therefore  detailed  for  this  purpose  upon 
arriving  otY  Graenlaud. 

Tlie  geographical  results  of  the  expedition  were  very  im- 
portant. 

Once  more  the  question  of  a  northeast  passage  wa»  pro- 
pounded, this  time  by  the  Dutch.  In  15i)J  a  number  of  the 
leading  merchants  of  Holland  tittel  '  <  thn-e  vessels  under 
comnuiud  of  Cornelizoon,   Ysbrant/  nd   Barents.     Pre- 

viously they  had  established  trading-iM)sts  at  Kola,  in  Lap- 
land, and  at  Archangel,  in  Kussia.  These  would  afford 
bases  of  supplies  in  case  of  retreat.  Owing  to  the  failure  of 
the  English  to  pass  Kara  Strait  they  determined  to  try  also 
the  passage  north  of  Nova  Zembla.  This  was  partly  due  to 
the  suggestions  of  Peter  Plaucius,  a  distinguished  theologian, 
astronomer,  and  rautical  adept  of  the  day.  Arriving  at  Nova 
Zembla,  the  vessels  parted  company,  one,  under  Barents,  keep- 
ing west  of  the  island,  proceeded  north,  while  the  other  two 
continued  east  and  south  until  they  arrived  at  the  "Wind-hole," 
or  Vaigat's  Strait,  the  south  rnmost  portion  of  Kara  Strait, 
formed  by  a  narrow  but  dangerous  lane  of  water  separating 
Vaigat's  Island  from  the  mainland.  This,  with  great  difficulty, 
they  passed  and  thereupon  entered  with 

UTMOST  DELIGHT 

a  vast  expanse  of  blue  open  sea.  The  land  on  their  right 
receding  rapidly  to  the  southeast,  they  supposed  themselves  off 
the  northeast  extremity  of  Asia  and  not  over  400  miles  from 
.  Canton,  China.  Deluded  men !  They  had  but  entered  Kara 
Gulf,  and  one-third  the  circumference  of  the  globe — the  entire 
north  coast  of  Siberia— lay  yet  before  them  to  Bering  Strait, 
which  a  century  and  a  half  of  almost  superhuman  effort  would 
be  required  to  reveal.     In  their  joy,  and 

FULL  OF  PATRIOTIC  ENTHUSIASM, 

they  turned  homeward,  meeting  with  Barents  on  the  way,  the 
old  ice-master  being  not  a  little  chagrined  at  not  being  able 
to  share  in  the  exultant  demonstrations  of  his  companion 
officers. 


irposo  upon 

TO  very  iin- 

s^e  was  pro- 
iibor  of  Ibo 
'ssols  uiitlor 
'cuts,  ri'o- 
»la,  ill  Lap- 
oiild  afford 
o  failuro  of 

to  try  also 
irtly  due  to 

theologian, 
iiig  at  Nova 
rents,  keep- 
B  other  two 
Wind -hole," 
[ara  Strait, 

separating 
It  difficulty, 


their  right 
^niselves  off 
miles  from 
tered  Kara 
—the  entire 
ring  Strait, 
?ffort  would 


he  wa}',  the 
being  able 
companion 


OR,    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  « 

He  had,  however,  been  quite  as  successful,  for,  having 
rounded  Cape  Nassau,  Nova  Zembla,  on  the  10th  of  July  he 
fought  his  way  through  the  perilous  ice  to  the  Orange  Islands' 
to  the  north  of  Nova  Zembla,  in  latitude  77°  early  in  August' 
The  determinations  of  latitude  made  by  him  were  verv  pre- 
cise for  those  days. 

The  following  year,  1595,  witnessed  the  departure  of  a  fleet 
of  SIX  vessels  laden  with 

WARES  FOR  THE  EASTERN  MARKET, 

a  yacht  accompanying  as  far  as  Kara  Strait  that  tidings  might 
be  brought  home  announcing  the  successful  arrival  of  the  fleet 
in  the  recently-discovered  "sea."     But 

"The  best  laid  schemes  o'  mice  and  men 

Gang  aft  a-gley, 
And  lea'e  us  nought  but  grief  and  pajn 
For  promised  joy." 

Massive  ice  rendered  Vaigat's  Strait  impassable  and  the  ex- 
pedition dejectedly  returned  home.  In  command  was  James 
\  an  Ileemskerke,  with  Barents  as  pilot.  Again,  the  next  year, 
lo9(),  was  a  third  exipedition  of  two  vessels  sent  out,  Heems- 
k.'ike  commanding  one,  while  Barents  once  more  acted  as  pilot 
Passing  the  Shetland  and  Faroe  Islands,  they  were  met  by 
the  drifting  ice  on  June  5th,  but  on  the  11th  made  land,  which 
they  named 

BEAR  ISLAND. 

because  there  they  had  killed  a  bear.  On  this  voyage  they 
killed  two  more  of  them,  measuring,  the  one  twelve  feet  the 
other  thirteen  feet,  in  length,  and  weighing  probably  not' less 
ihan  1,S00  pounds  each— the  largest  on  record.  Continuinjr 
northward,  they  on  the  IDtli 

DISCOVERED  SPITZBERGEN, 

supiiosing,  however,  it  to  be  a  part  of  Greenland.    Of  this 
island  they  explored  a  considerable   of   the   west  coast   till 
stopped  by  the  ice,  whereupon  tliey  returned  to  Bear  Island 
Here  the  vessels  separated,  Oeemskerke  and  Barents  push- 


■■<*%  :  -^ 


42 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE   NORTH    POLE; 


iu^'  on  throiiffli  iho  ico  to  Ihc  woHt  coast  of  Nova  Zombla,  then 
known  as  Willonglib^v's  Island,  where  tliey  arrived  Jn]y  Kith. 
Cape  Nassan  was  (hnihU'd  on  Angnst  (Ith  and,  sonu'  (hiys 
later,  tiie  Orange  Ishmds.  Atlainiu}--  the  same  hititnde  as 
made  hy  Barents  on  his  first  voyage,  tlie  exi)edition  was  com- 
pelkil,  by  reason  of  iee,  to  retreat  sonthward  along  the  east 
foast  of  Nova  Zembhi,  where  tliey  ttnally  became 

ICE-LOCKED 

in  a  small  harbor,  latitude  75°  4,r.  Says  De  Veer,  mate  of  the 
vessel  and  historian  of  the  voyage:  "The  cakes  of  ice  began 
to  pile  np  around  the  ship  on  all  sides,  and  pressed  against  it 
so  closely  that  it  commenced  to  crack  and  give  wav,  and  it 
seemed  as  if  the  vessel  would  break  into  a  thousand  pieces; 
and  when  the  ice  moved  it  i)nshed  and  raised  the  ship  as  if 
some  huge  machine  were  elevating  it  in  the  air."     This 

PERILOUS  SITUATION 

compelled  them  to  effect  a  landing  and  provide  winter-quar- 
ters  on  shore.  The  ocean  currents  are  not  always  cruel,  for 
here  they  had  deposited  an  abundance  of  drift-wood,  doubt- 
less brought  from  Siberia.  More  of  this  was  discovered  float- 
ing on  a  stream  about  nine  miles  in  the  interior,'  and  alto- 
gether the  seventet'n  men  were  able  to  provide  for  them- 
selves a 

WARM  LOG  CABIN 

and  an  abundance  of  firewood.  To  the  top  of  the  structure 
Avas  erected  a  chimney,  Avliile  near  the  central  fireplace  was 
j-eserved  a  place  for  a  sick  comrade.  Around  the  walls  were 
arranged  their  bunks  and  from  a  large  cask  they  took  frequent 
baths.  ^1 

Their  food  consisted  of  provisions  transported  from  the 
ship.  Although  they  had  seen  tracks  of  the  bear  and  the 
saiga,  a  species  of  the  antelope,  they  do  not  appear  to  have 
secured  any  of  these  animals  for  their  larder.    On  the  23d  of 


On.    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


43 


iIIIII'iVh*"    """""'        '  •'*•  V7;,i 

tmimmimyi'" 


iiate  of  the 
'  ice  beguu 
I  Jij^aiust  it 
ra.y,  and  it 
iiid  i)io(;os; 
'  ship  us  if 
Dliis 


BARENTS'   HOUSE,    NOVA   ZEMBLA. 
(Exterior  View.) 


inter-quar- 
4  cruel,  for 
»o(l,  (loubt- 
rerod  float- 
,  and  alto- 
for  tliem- 


'  structure 
'place  was 
ivalls  were 
k  frequent 

from  the 
r  and  tlie 
ir  to  have 
the  23d  of 


BARENTS'  HOUSE,    NOVA  ZEMBLA. 
(Inteiior  View.) 


44 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


September,  a  month  or  more  before  the  disappearance  of  the 
sun, 

THE  CARPENTER  DIED, 

being-  the  first  to  suecumb  "to  the  rigors  of  the  elinmte."  The 
ground  Avas  frozen  so  hard  at  this  time  tliat  they  "could  not 
dig  a  grave"  and  were  compelled  to  bury  him  in  the  cleft  of  a 
rock. 

De  Veer  writes:  "We  look  pitifully  one  upon  the  other, 
being  in  great  fear  that  if  the  extremity  of  cold  grew  to  be 
more  and  more  we  should  all  die  there  of  cold,  for  that  what 
lire  soever  we  made,  would  not  warm  us." 

Their  cabin  was  soon  covered  with  snow  several  feet  deep 
and  they  were  obliged  to  tunnel  their  way  out.  During  a 
wind  storm  the  fire  refused  to  burn  for  four  days  and  the  ice 
formed  two  inches  in  thickness  upon  their  bunks,  while  their 
clothes  were  covere<l  with  frost. 

BEARS  AND  FOXES, 

too,  annoyed  them,  threatening  to  tear  the  roof  from  the  house. 
The  foxes  learned  to  descend  the  inside  of  the  chimney  and 
several  were  trapped,  their  flesh  being  used  for  food.  Several 
bears  also  were  shot  and  the  furs  of  these  and  of  the  foxes 
afforded  very  acceptable  clothing.  In  fact  no  other  nmterial 
could  have  been  so  servicable. 

Through  ignorance  and  prejudice  they  failed  to  use  the 
wholesome  bear's  meat  and  consequently  suffere<l  from  attacks 
of  scurvy. 

Early  in  December,  during  a  storm  which  blew  violently 
and  with  intense  cold  from  the  northeast,  they  made  a  rousing 
fire  of  coal  brought  from  the  vessel.  Having  closed  evei^ 
crevice— even  the  chimney— to  retain  the  heat,  they  were 
soon  seized  with  dizziness  and  must  have  suffocated  had  not 
one  succeeded  in  opening  the  door  and  another  the  chimney. 

On  January  5,  1597,  the  eve  of  "Twelfth  Night,"  long  cele- 
brated throughout  Europe,  they 

MADE  MERRY. 

as  says  De  Veer:  "We  prayed  our  Master  that  we  might  be 


ince  of  the 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WOULD. 

iiiHn-,  .,,,,1  »„i,l  lh„f  „.,.  „,.,■,.  ,„nl,.nt  l„  »p,.,„I  „,„„p  „f  ,|,^ 
"iiK'     '"    "'Kl|l   "Im-Ii  «•,.  I,„,l  «|,a,v,l,  .„„,  „.hi,.|,  „•„„  „„r 

"""■'■  "'",'f  "  '"""  '■"•••>•  »«■". ..V,  „n,l  ,vl„...™f  r,.,-  ,.,.,-t„  , 

c  .vs  „,.  ha.   not  ,|..,„,k.    An,l  »„  ,|,„,  „i«i,t  «■..  ,„„,„.  „„. 
"»";l>"»-  '"(sfor  k„,g.     A,.,l  tl,..«,f  w<.  I,„,l  two  „o,„„l»  ,; 

I""l  "  w  "!<■  I>.».UM  «l,i,.|,  we  so„t  i„  tUo  win...    Ami  »„ 
l".>n.«  I  ..a  w,.  w......  i„  ou,.  own  count,,-,  and  an,o„«»         . 

'"■"""•  '.'  '■ f"'-'<'<l  "»  ■■'>'  «-eIl  as  if  we  l,a<l  nuule  ^  ...-e 

'"' "■'  '"  '""■  ""■»  "">"'<'•    An,l  we  al»o  ,„a,l,.  trinke(»:a, , 

JM..- ,n,nm.,.  was  nuulo  king  of  Novnya  Ze„,l,a,  whiel,    s  at 

„;;,;•  ^uT  "' """ '"--'" '■^'"^■^" "™ --•"  o" •'- 

SUN  REAPPEARED 

and  tl.civ  was  accordingly  bustle  and  stir  in  the  little  en- 
-""I»"<'nt.  However,  the  death  of  one  of  their  number  <,u  th. 
^yW-H'  day  caused  then,  sadness.  Fine  weather  cann^  with  the 
-Mh  and  they  played  a  game  of  ball  in  the  open  air.     Earlv 

1  M.M.h  the  sea  ice  bej^an  to  move.     On  the  loth  of  \pH. 

u,-  .nspect.^  the  ship  and  found  it  in  better  condithm  than 
"as  anticipated.     On  May  20th,  however,  the 

VESSEL  WAS  ABANDONED 

a.Kl  by  the  n,i,I,Ile  „f  .i„„o  tlioy  took  leave  of  t!,eir  late  resi. 

.Iniee   h-u»t,ns  tl.omselves  to  the  two  ship's  boats,  an,l  i„  a 

..-t  l.."o  rowed  to  Oranse  Island.     liefore  startin:.,  Hate  „ 

iJMene{|  ,t  to  the  ohnnney  of  the  hoii.se. 

^^•l.en  b„t  four  days  out  their  frail  crafts  were  ,au«ht  be- 
tween en,.r.n,ous  pans  of  ice  and,  abando„i„s  all  hope  of  sa  it 
"tl.-  boat  ,„.  lif<,  thev  took  leave  of  each  oH.er.  De  \-,.e  ■      ,w 

pan  uu  ,1 1  e  l,a,l  reached  a  very  -..rse  one  on  whi.h  ,h,.v  flnallv 
Here,  on  the  20th  of  June,  while  drifting  northward  with 


46 


THK    SKAKCII    FUU    TUld    NOUTM    I'OM;:; 


1 


the  !(•«',  on  (lie  west  counI  of  Nova  Z«'iiil»Iji,  the  Iniwi  niu\ 
worthy 

HAIiKNTS  IMHI), 

lojicllMT  \vi(li  (MH'of  tlicNjiiloi's,  XiclicilaM  AiHlricn.  The  ilcalli 
u\'  Harrnls,  al(li(Mi<;li  apparciilly  not  iMH-xpcctcd  to  liiinsrlf, 
was  s(»  (o  liis  nu'ii.     Ijis  rcinaiiis  wcic  <-oiiiiMitt('<l  to  liic  himi. 


The  death  of  NVilliam  IJan'Ml 


s,"  says  I>(.  Veer,  "mad 


«'    IIM 


all  feel  very  sad,  scciiio  {Un\  ],,.  ^as  our  |H'in<'ipal  .unidc  and 
pihd,  and  uuo  in  whom  we  liad  every  <(Mili(h'n(<'.  lint  we 
conhl  not   resist  the  will  of  (}<mI,  and  this  thoimht   mad 


e  iiH 


culm. 


ri-oceedin}^  in  (heii-  |j;i'eatly  Injured  boats  they  kept  them 
from  sinkin«;  with  the  utmost  ditlicnity.  Upon  i'ea('hin<>  ( 'ajte 
Xa>;san,  in  haulinn'  the  laij^JM-  boat  ashore,  she  was  upset  and 
they  lost  nearly  all  their  provisions.  A;;ain  ]»uttin«;  to  sea 
on  .Inly  l!H!i,  they  arrived  at  the  southern  point  of  the  island 
on  July   2Sth.     Shortly   afterwards   the  boats  b 


ccame  sepa- 
leir  arrival  at  the 


rated  in  a  fo}^'  and  <lid  not  aj^ain  meet  till  tl 

entrance  to  the  White  Sea.     During-  this  interval  of  se])ar 

tion  their  stock  of  provisions  was  aeneronslv 


i- 


increased   bv 


the  Kussian  fishermen  whom  they  occasionally  met,  and  thus, 
by  strict  self-denial,  they  were  enabled  to  reach  (^ipe  Kanine. 
They  had  been  out  104  (biys  since  leavinj^-  their  winter  (juar- 
ters.  Fortunately  they  were  here  picke<l  up  by  the  other  ves- 
s(d  from  whicii  they  had  been  separated  thirt 


cen  months  pre- 


vious, and  conveyed  thence  to  Kola,  where  Ryj),  the  commander 
of  the  vessel,  had  first  been  infornuMl  of  the  arrival  of  the  ship- 
wrecks at  Tape  Kanine.     From  this  point  the  thirt( 


»en  snr- 


ivors  were  conveyed  by  the  same  vessel  to  Amsterdam,  wh<*re 
they  wei-e  received  with  or(.j,t  demonstration  and  entertained 

y  r(H'eived  the  monev  dne 


e  with  the  Span- 


at  the  expense  of  the  city  till  the 

them.     I  leemskerke  was  slain  in  a  naval  battl 

iards  ten  years  later. 

In  1(;02  the  Knolisii  resumed  the  search  for  the  northwest 
passaoe.    The  expedition  safely  reached  the  entrance  to  Hud- 


son's T?ay,  bnt  being  driven  back  th 


rongh  the  strait  by  a  violent 


TlH'dcalli 
to  liiinsrif, 

0  (Im'  Hca. 

r,  "iiiiidc  (iH 

1  ;i>iii<l('  iiiid 
■«'.  liiil  wv 
lit   iiiadc  UH 

■  kept  tlicm 
irhiii^  ( 'ajtc 
s  ii|»s('(  and 
liiij;  l(»  sea 
1"  tlu'  island 
caiiic  scpa- 
rival  a(  llie 
!  of  S('])ai'a- 
ci'oascd  by 
i,  and  thus, 
ipo  Kaninc. 
inter  (]iiar- 
:*  other  vcs- 
iionths  prc- 
:'oniuian(h*i* 
of  the  ship- 
lii'tcon  siir- 
lani,  wImto 
^ntoi'taiiH'd 
money  <liio 
li  the  Span- 

noi'thwest 
CO  to  Ihid- 
►y  a  violeut 


OR.    LIFR    IN    THE    (JREAT    WIIITF3    WOULD. 

Mtonii,  the  eoniniandei',  Captain  Weymouth,  retui'ued  to  \< 
hind  without  achieving;  further  distinction. 
The  next  year  the  KnjrlJNli,  under  tlie  pat 


17 


"K- 


romige  of  "(lie 
',"  sent    a   small    veH.sel,   the  "({(mI- 


worshipfid   FraiMis  ('lieri( 

speed,"  to  the  Arrtie  Oeean  on  a  v(.yj|o(.  of  d 

\(»vai>('  northward  the  expedition  disposed  of 


at  K(da,  the  Dutch  Iradinu  st 


iscovery.    On  the 
a  carjio  of  ^'oods 


atio 


II  in  Lapland,  and  then  | 


<'"cded   to  Hear  Island,   the  nam,,  of  whieh   was  ehan.-cd 
Cherry  Island.    Tlie  latitude  was  del 


will  he  recollected  that  I 
a  hear.     This  time,  th 


U'o- 

to 
(Miniued  to  be  71    ;{0'.     |t 


lere  nine  years  before  Hareiits  killed 
,  the  conimamh'r,  Hennet,  loiind  foxes.     In 


cov- 
le  ivory  tusks  of  (he 


a  second  voya- ade  to  the  islam!  in  1(101,  he  fo.uid  it 

ered  with  wild  fowl  and   walruses.     Tl 
walrus  beiiin.  very  valuable,  an  attempt  was  made  t. 
a  return  car-o.     This  was  done  by  criiellv  bliiidiuii'  tl 
tiires  with  small  shot  and  then 


)  secure 


le  crea- 


niaimin<;  them  with  hatchets. 


Out  of  a  thousand  thus  tortured  tli,>v  killed  but  lift 


The  third  expedition,  in   U)05 


eeii. 


succeeded  in  uctti 


>,  was  better  e(iiiij)ped,  and 


j;ettin/.'  ti  larj,^e  (luautity  of  blubber  boiled  inl,, 
"li,  111  addition  to  a  car^o  (.f  teeth.  In  1(»(H;  Hennet  collected 
111  two  weeks  three  hogsheads  of  teeth  and  twenty-two  barrels 


of  oil 


Ajiaiii,  iu  um,  he  wa 


hours  the  crew 


«  on  this  same  island  and  iu  ho 


ven 


KILLED  ONE  THOUSAND  WALRUSES. 

A  i)air  of  these  monstrous  brutes  was  taken  alive  to  ¥ 
the  male  bein««-  exhibited  at  court,  "where  the  1 
Iionorable    personaj^es    beheld    it 
strangeness  of  ihe  same,  the  like  whereof  had 


111' laud. 


iu«>'  and  manv 


with    admiration    for    tl 


le 


)ceu  seen  in  Eno-land.     Not  h,no.  af((>r  it  fell  sick  and  <1 
As  the  beast  in  shape  is  very  str 


uever  before 
ied. 


ty,  aiKl  apt  to  be  taught,  as  by  g«H,d 


uige,  so  it  is  of  stranw  do<ili. 


prove. 


experience  we  oftc 


n 


11  1(500  live  Eno-lish  ships  were  here  at  one  t 


\vilh  fur.s,  oil,  and  walrus  teeth.     Wl 


til 


e  walrus  fre,]uentlv  weighs  a  t 


ime,  all  loading 
len  it  is  remembered  that 


on  and  has  tusks  two  feet 


lu 


.^-nj!,'*/., 


: 


48 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


length  it  will  not  soem  incredihlo  that  they  were  able  to 
secure  such  vast  (]uantitie.s  of  oil  aud  ivoi'^'. 

THREE  LEAD  MINES 

were  also  diseovered  on  (he  island.  The  weather  during  the 
latlei*  part  of  June  is  described  as  being  calm,  clear,  and  about 
as  warm  as  in  I'^ugiand  at  the  same  i)eriod.  This  is  owing  to 
tile  iuHiH'nce  of  the  (Julf  Slream. 

Tlie  dream  of  a  northwest  ])assage  again  disturbed  the 
peaceful  rest  of  England,  and  the  Muscovy  Company,  in  1(10(1, 
sent  out  a  small  vessel  of  forty  tons  burden  under  the  com- 
mand of  the  brave  and  competent  John  Knight.  The  middle 
of  June  found  him  in  stormy  weather  with  frightful  north 
winds  and  huge  masses  of  ice  driving  the  sliij)  upon  the 
rocks  of  Labrador.  With  rudder  carried  away  and  hull 
much  injured,  he  welcomed  refuge  in  the  first  inlet.  Here  he 
made  repairs  and  examined  the  stores  and  provisions. 

On  June  2(>th,  Knight,  in  comi)an3'  with  his  brother  and 
one  of  the  seamen,  crossed  the  inlet. 


A  SAD  FATE 

awaited  them.  Y^^hen  last  seen  they  had  climbed  a  hill,  and 
just  before  i)assing  down  on  the  opposite  side  waved  their 
hats  in  token  of  parting  to  those  on  board.  In  vain  did  the 
,lK)atmen  await  their  return.  In  vain  through  all  the  dark 
.night  did  the  crew  fire  off  their  muskets,  call  long  and  loudly, 
and  bl,)W  the  trumpets. 

Unfortunately  bad  weather  prevailed  and  the  ice  prevented 
searching  parties  from  being  sent  out. 

On  the  night  of  June  2Sth,  however,  knowledge  of  their  fate 
came  to  hand.  They  were  themselves  attacked  by  about  fifty 
savages  Avho  surrounded  the  ship  in  their  canoes.  Athough 
but  eight  in  number,  the  men  were  aid(Ml  in  their  defense  and 
ensuing  offense  by  a  large  mastiff  which  had  been  the  com- 
panion of  their  voyage. 


rore  able  to 


r  during  the 
1',  and  about 
;  is  owing  to 


istui'bed  the 
liny,  in  KlOd, 
h'l'  the  coni- 
The  middle 
«htful  north 
ij)  upon  the 
ly  and  hull 
?t.  Here  he 
lions, 
brother  and 


1  a  hill,  an<l 
waved  their 
rain  did  the 
ill  the  dark 
and  loudly, 

'e  prevented 

of  their  fate 
•  about  fifty 
I.  Athough 
defense  ami 
pn  the  com- 


(1.)  Ah-kai-tclio  iiiul  Hon -Hooi).  (2.)  Crossiiif;  Liikf  Pm^pcrous,  May  30, 
1821)— Hood.  (H.)  Marten  I.alvc,  IviU-Hood.  (4.)  Discovery  of  llie  ('o|>iperniiMO 
River,  September  1,  iN^iU-llood.  (Ti.)  Kort  Knterprisi',  May  l:i,  I'^Jl  iSnow  Melt- 
ing) Hack.  'I!.)  Kns-kiir-rah,  Copper  Indian  Uuiilo  and  Hi-  Daiiwliter  "(ireeii 
Htorkings"— Hood,    t^^ee  Cliapier  VI,) 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


49 


The  natives  became  entangled  in  the  ice  and  the  vollevs 
of  musketry  fired  at  them  created  havoc  in  their  midst. 

CRIES,  GROANS,  AND  LAMENTATIONS 

made  the  night  hideous.     These  savages  were  small  of  stature 
tawny,  slightly  built,  quite  beardless,  and  had  flat  noses 

Fearing  another  attack  from  increased  numbers,  the  men 
with  rudderless  ship  and  being  C()m])elled  to  keep  constantlv 
at  the  pumps,  put  to  sea.  Through  favoring  currents  and  hard 
work  at  the  oars  at  the  end  of  three  weeks  they  arrived  at  the 
island  of  Fogo,  off  the  northeast  coast  of  Newfounland— a 
I'ocky  islet  which  the  writer  distinctly  recollects  as  having 
been  pointed  out  to  him  by  the  lamented  Captain  Bartlett* 
th'Mi  commanding  the  "Falcon,"  on  the  way  to  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland, from  Anniv(M'sary  Lodge,  North  Greenland  Sen- 
tcniber  12,  1894.  '    > 

Being  assisted  by  the  fishermen  in  repairing  their  vesw^l, 
tliey  set  sail  for  England,  where  they  arrived  Septeml;er  24tli 
of  the  same  year. 

Contemporaneous  with  the  first  permanent  English  settle- 
ment in  America,  made  at  Jamestown,  Virginia,  in  1(107,  was 
also  undertaken  the  first  voyage  "toward  China"  by  way  of  the 

NORTH  POLE. 

M(U'e  than  three-fourths  of  a  century  previous  (o  this,  Kob- 
ert  Thorne  had  indulged  in  dreams  of  attaining  this  point, 
but  not  until  after  comnu^rce  had  first  been  established  on 
more  southern  waters  was  this  route  attemi)te(l.  Some  mer- 
chants of  London,  being  desirous  of  ascertaining  a  shorter 
and  more  direct  way  to  the  Pacific,  secured  a  small  vessel  with 
ten  sailors  and  placed  in  command 

HENRY  HUDSON, 

who  was  not  long  in  reaching  latitude  73°,  on  the  east  coast  of 
Cireenland,  and  thence  the  northern  point  of  Spitzbergen,  in 
latitude  80°.  With  strenuous  efforts  this  sage  of  the  sea 
pushed  his  staunch  little 


ip 


30'  of  latitude — a  record 


i 


50 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


which  remained  imbroken  for  nearly  two  centuries  and  a  quar- 
ter, or  until  Parry,  the  prince  of  polar  ice,  attained  in  the  same 
region  in  1827,  83"  45'.     The  next  year  on  a 

SECOND  VOYAGE 

he  followed  the  course  taken  by  Barents  by  way  of  Nova  Zem- 
bla,  but,  in  latitude  72°  25',  was  compelled  to  turn  back  on 
account  of  the  ice.  His  third  voyage,  made  in  1609,  was,  first, 
an  attempt  to  push  through  the  ice  by  way  of  the  faniou;; 
northeast  passage,  failing  in  which  he,  secondly,  immediatel\ 
sailed  for  Greenland  and  Davis'  Strait  in  search  for  the  nt)rlh- 
west  passage;  but,  being  driA-en  southward,  he  touched  the 
western  world  in  the  region  of  Nova  Scotia  and  thence  explored 
the  coast  as  far  as  Chesapeake  Baj',  on  the  return  voyage  dis- 
covering and  exploring  nearly  to  the  present  site  of  Albany 
the  noble  stream  modestly  named  by  him  North  Kiver,  but 
now  rightlv  called  Hudson  in  his  honor.  It  now  reiaained  for 
Hudson  to  make  his  fourth  and  last  sad  voyage. 

On  April  17,  ICIO,  in  a  ship  of  but  fifty-five  tons  burden  and 
with  "but  six  months'  provisions,  he  left  London,  and,  passing 
the  Shetland  and  Faroe  Islands,  on  the  11th  of  May  sighte<l 
Iceland.  Here  they  Avitnessed  old  Ilecla,  the  noted  volcano, 
in  the  glory  of  an  eruption.  Landing,  they  bathed  in  one  of 
the  outflows  of  the  great  geyser,  the  water  of  which  they  found 
hot  enough  to  boil  a  fowl.  In  four  days  they  were  in  the  great 
ice-barrier  off  Greenland.  Says  Hudson:  "This  day  we  saw 
Greenland  perfectly,  over  the  ice;  and  this  night  the 

SUN  WENT  DOWN  DUE  NORTH, 

and  rose  north-northeast,  so  plying  the  fifth  day,  we  were  in 
(»5°."  liouuding  Gape  Farewell  they  met  with  large  num- 
bers (»f  whales  in  the  vicinity  of  Ca'^e  Desolation.  From  this 
point  they  pursued  a  west-nortln> .  .st  course,  hitting  upon,  by 
the  last  of  June,  Resolution  Island,  discovered  in  1570  by  Fro- 
bisher,  and  thence  continued  through  the  strait  now  bearinj]; 
his  name  to  the  vast  inland  sea,  or  bay,  also  called  in  his  honoi'. 
Having  discovered  the  great  body  of  v/atcr  on  St.  Michael's 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


51 


Day,  the  29tli  of  September,  Hudson  luinied  it  Micliaeliiius  Bay. 
It  will  be  remeinbered  that  Sebastian  Cabot  had  previously 
explored  the  bay  in  1517. 

The  six  months  for  whieh  the  ship  was  provisioned  had 
now  nearly  elapsed,  biit  in  the  three  weeks  which  remained 
of  the  allotted  period  they  mij'ht  have  reached  England  with- 
out inconvenience.  The  majority  on  board  already  believed 
that  the  South  Sea  had  been  reached  and  the  coveted  north- 
west passage  found.  They  seem  to  have  been  desirous  of 
makino-  their  escape  before  being  completely  hemmed  in  by 
the  ice.  Hudson,  however,  was  of  an  adverse  opinion  and 
went  into  winter-quarters.  IJy  the  10th  of  November  they 
were  completely  frozen  in  and  about  the  same  time  the 

GUNNER  DIED. 

The  men  quite  naturally  attributed  his  untimely  end  to  the 
obstinacy  of  the  commander  and  were  groAving  in  discontent- 
ment. Provisions  were  now  so  nearly  exhausted  that  in  spite 
of  additions  nuide  by  hunting  they  were  reduced  to  very  short 
rations.  The  hoi)e— the  fascination — of  success— of  finding 
an  outlet  to  the  Pacific  and  conse(iuently  to  a  more  genial 
clime,  probably  induced  liudsonto  remain  until  escape  became 
impossible.     He 

ERRED  IN  JUDGMENT 

and  brought  up^Mi  himself  the  sad,  sad  fate  which  lie  hardly 
deserved.  Had  he  known  to  a  certainty  and  in  season  that 
there  was  no  other  passage  to  a  better  climate,  as,  for  example, 
in  going  from  the  north  of  Greenland  or  Spitzbergen  to  the 
pole,  no  other  avenue  of  escape  than  by  retracing  !:i  course, 
the  case  niighf  be  viewed  in  a  different  light.  Even  had  he 
returned  to  Englan<l  by  the  end  of  the  six  months  for  which 
the  expedition  was  provisioned  no  blame  could  have  been  at- 
tached to  him.  On  the  contrary,  he  would  have  been  praised 
forgieat  prudence. 

Ill  spite  of  persistent  efforts  to  replenish  their  larder  bv 


62 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


hunting  and  fishing  and  by  bartering  with  tlie  natives,  spring 
tound  tliese  poor  men  on  the  point  of 

ACTUAL  STARVATION. 

This,  following  an  all  winter's  allowance  of  short  rations, 
may  in  a  measure  exonerate  the  men  for  the  mutinous  feeling 
then  generally  prevalent  among  them.  Had  unforeseen  acci- 
dent and  not  deliberate  calculation  been  the  cause,  the  case 
would  be  different. 

At  last  Hudson  decided  to  leave  James'  Bay  and  return  to 
l^.nglaud  by  the  way  he  had  come.  Before  starting  he  doled 
out  what  remained  of  the  provisions,  a  loaf  of  bread  to  each 
man,  and  five  cheeses  to  be  divided  equally  among  them. 
What  with  these  and  eighty  fishes  caught  soon  afterwards 
they  might  have  lived  two  weeks  longer,  on  short  rations.  The 
boatswain,  frenzied  with  hunger,  consumed  his  allowance  in 
one  day,  and  was,  in  consequence,  sick  for  some  time. 

On  the  21st  of  June,  Hudson,  as  he  came  on  deck,  was 
seized  and  securely  bound  by  three  of  the  disaffected  ores 
and,  with  his  son  John,  the  six  invalids,  and  the  carpenter 
John  King,  ' 

INHUMANLY  PLACED  ADRIFT 

in  the  ship's  boat,  and  was  never  again  seen  or  heard  of. 
Standing  to  sea,  the  mutineers  in  a  few  days  were  driven  upon 
tlie  ice  by  a  storm  and  held  prisoners  for  two  weeks. 

By  the  last  of  July  they  were  in  Hudson's  Strait.     On  one 
occasion,  six  of  the  men  having  landed  for  the  purpose  of 
shooting    fowl,    they    were    unexpectedly    attacked    by    the 
Eskimos  and  four  of  the  six  either  killed  outright  or  difd  of 
their  wounds  shortly  afterwards.     Others  died  on  the  voy- 
age,   and    all    suffered    great    privations.      Finally  reaching 
Bantry  Bay,  on  the  southwest  coast  of  Ireland,  they  were 
enabled,  by  the  assistance  of  fresh  seamen,  to  reach  England. 
Robert  Billet,  or  Bylot,  mate  and  acting  master  of  the  ves- 
sel on  her  arrival,  and  Habbakuk  Pricket,  historian  of  the 
voyage,  were  the  only  two  to  present  themselves  before  the 
authorities,  the  others  concealing  themselves  in  obscurity. 


OR.   LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  M 

While  Hudson  and  companions  were  thus  starving  in  the 
northwest,  the  English  were  pushing  their  vessels 

DIRECTLY  POLEWARD 

by  way  of  Spitzbergen.     The  command  of  an  expedition  in  this 
direction,  in  IGIO,  was  entrusted  to  Jonas  Poole,  with  these 
instructions:  "Inasmuch  as  it  hath  pleased  Almightv  God 
through  the  industry  of  yourself  and  others,  to  discover  unto 
our  nation  a  land  lying  in  eighty  degrees  toward  the  North 
1  ole,  we  are  desirous  not  only  to  discover  farther  to  the  north- 
ward along  the  said  land,  to  find  whether  the  same  be  an  island 
or  a  main,  and  which  way  the  same  doth  trend,  either  to  the 
eastward  or  to  the  westward  of  the  pole;    as  also  whether 
the  same  be  inhabited  by  any  people,  or  whether  there  be  an 
open  sea  farther  north  than  hath  been  alreadv  discovered  " 

In  this  voyage  Poole  attained  latitude  78°^  The  following 
is  an  interesting  part  of  his  report:  "A  passage  may  be  as 
soon  attained  this  way  by  the  pole  as  any  unknown  way  what- 
soever, by  reason  the  sun  doth  give  a  great  heat  in  this  cli- 
mate, and  the  ice  that  freezeth  here  is  nothing  so  hu.re  as  I 
have  see-*  in  73°." 

In  Kill  Poole  again  went  northward,  being  accompanied 
by  the  first  English  ship  ever  intended  expressly  for  whalino- 
Leaving  this  on  the  "whaling-grounds,"  he  advanced  north- 
ward to  80°  and  then  steered  westward,  exploring  the  east 
coast  of  Greenland,  two  degrees  farther  north  than  had  ever 
been  charted.  Upon  returning  to  the  vessel  he  found  that 
the  crew  had  caught  thirteen  whales,  md  they  then  joined 
company  to  England. 

Once  more,  in  1612-13,  Poole  made  a  voyage  to  the 

"SEA  OF  SPITZBERGEN." 

Here  he  found  at  least  twenty  whaling-vessels,  Dutch,  French, 
Hpauish,  Biscayan,  and  English,  one  of  them  being  in  command 
<'f  William  Baffin,  soon  to  be  noted  as  an  able  Arctic  navigator. 


f  \W 


64 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


In  1018  the  crown  of  Eu;>laii.l  <iui('tly  ami  pcjiicably  took  pos- 
session of  the  island  and  contij>uous  sea. 

THE  SEARCH  FOR  HUDSON, 

undertaken  in  the  .year  1012,  led  to  further  j,re,)j,,.aphi(.al 
knowledge  of  Hudson  Hay,  but  to  no  new  information  eouceru- 
inj;  the  abandoned .  navigator  and  his  invalid  companions. 
Pricket  and  liylot,  of  Hudson's  unfortunate  party,  accom- 
panied the  expedition,  which  was  placed  under  command  of 
Sir  Thomas  Button,  then  a  leader  of  thought  in  England,  but 
who,  thongh  well-versed  in  the  history  of  northern  research, 
ncked  the  practical  experience  and  insight  of  IJylot. 

Entering  Hudson's  Bay,  Button  reached  Southampton 
Island,  ;,iiiliiig  thence  westward  to  the  west  coast,  in  latitude 
00°  40',  E-nied  by  him  "Hopes  Checked"— doubtless  because 
the  Mnb  oken  shore-hne  (piite  dispelled  his  ambitious  faith  in 
the  existence  of  the  northwest  passage  in  that  region.  Pro- 
ceeding southward,  he  discovered  the  bay  now  known  by  his 
name,  and,  on  August  15th,  Nelson  River,  near  the  mouth 
of  which  he  sjient  the  winter,  during  which  period  some  of  the 
crew  died  from  the  ehects  of  intense  cold.     In  the  spring 

GAME  ABOUNDED, 

and  more  than  21,000  "white  partridges,"  or  ptarmigans,  were 
secured  by  the  crews  of  both  vessels.  Had  hunting  pai'ties 
been  despatched  early  in  the  fall  an  ample  supply  Of  fresh 
meat  and  Avarm  furs  would  doubtless  have  been  obtained  and 
no  deaths  occurred.  To  this  day  even,  game  is  "unimaginably 
abundant"  in  those  regions.  In  1894,  the  late  Professor  Tyr- 
rell, of  the  Canadian  Geological  Survey,  explored  a  large  por- 
tion of  the  unknown  lands  lying  to  the  west  of  Hudson's  Bay. 
In  this  treeless  region  he  found  that  "over  an  area  of  three 
square  mihvs  or  more,  the  reindeer  were  so  thick  as  almost  com- 
pletely to  shut  out  from  view  the  ground." 

In  April,  1013,  Button  left  winter  quarters  and,  sailing 
northward,  discovered  Mansfield's  Islands,  in  05°.  He  then 
f^ailod  to  England,  crossing  the  Atlantic  in  thirteen  days  from 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


65 


ook  pos- 


raphical 
L'oucei'u- 
pauions. 
accom- 
uand  of 
iiid,  but 
esearcb, 

ain])lon 
latitude 
because 
faith  iu 
1.  Pro- 
1  by  his 
mouth 
e  of  the 


IS,  were 
parties 
)f  fresh 
led  and 
S'inably 
;or  Tyr- 
'ge  por- 
I's  Bay. 
>f  three 
•st  corn- 
sailing 
fe  then 
r»  from 


I 


Cape  (liidley,  the  northernmost  point  in  Labrador.  He  was 
still  of  the  opinion  that  the  Northwest  Passage  led  from  Hud- 
son's Bay,  seeming  to  cling  to  the  conviction  with  as  much 
jx'i'linacity  as  «lid  Hudson  himself,  and  "ravished  the  public 
with  the  whistling  of  his  name,"  notwithstanding  the  wiser 
counter-belief  of  the  less  influential  Bylot.  But  it  required 
"generations"  for  the  public  mind  to  accept  this. 

In  1(505  the  Danish  Government  sent  out  an  exploring  ex- 
pedition to  search  for  the  old  Norse  colonists,  but  when  in 
latitude  09°,  near  the  present  site  of  Christianshaab,  the  crews 
of  the  three  vessels  rebelled,  necessitating  the  return  of  the 
expedition.  The  next  year  the  government  sent  out  another 
squadron  of  four  ships  to  search  for  gold  and  silver  mines  in 
Greenland.  Gn  both  of  these  voyages  the  celebrated  Captain 
James  Hall  served  as  pilot.  Of  the  second  expedition  he  wrote 
that  they  "landed  to  see  the  silver  mine,  where  it  was  decreed 
we  should  take  in  as  much  as  we  could."  When  in  latitude 
(i(5°  25',  or  almost  on  the  Arctic  Circle,  they  kidnapped  five 
Eskimos  and  carried  them  to  Denmark. 

In  1607,  when  on  another  cruise  to  Greenland,  still  under 
Danish  auspices,  he  was  compelled  to  return  owing  to  the 
mutiny  of  his  crew. 

Six  years  later,  in  1(J12,  Hall,  accompanied  by  Baffin  in 
the  employ  of  the  Muscovy  Company,  revisited  the  place 
whence  he  had  stolen  the  natives  in  KlOfJ.  Neither  his  ap- 
pearance nor  his  treachery  haa  been  forgotten.  Attacking 
him  suddenly,  one  of  the  Eskimos  dealt  him  such  a  thrust  with 
his  spear  that 

HALL    DIED 

shortly  afterward,  and  the  expedition  returned  to  England 
under  command  of  Baffin,  a  man  well  versed  in  the  nautical 
s(  lence  of  the  day  and  who,  by  observing  the  heavenly  bodies 
<luring  this  voyage,  was  the  first  to  indicate  a  new  method  of 
determining  the  position  of  a  vessel  at  sea. 

As  stated  in  considering  Poole's  voyage  to  the  "sea  of 
Spitzbergen,"  Baffin  was  in  command  of  one  of  the  whaling- 
vessels.     Here  again  he  gives  evidence  of  his  wonderful  pow- 


\ii 


66 


THE   SEARCH    FOR   THE   NORTH   POLE; 


crN  of  oh.sci'vatioii  iu  noting  the  extraordinary  refraction  of 
tile  atmosphere  in  liigli  latitudes  and  tlie  quality  of  wliich  he 
determined  to  be  tweuiy-six  minutes  at  the  horizon.  "J  sup- 
pose," Ik.'  i'haraeteristically  remarks,  "the  refraction  is  more 
or  less  according  as  the  air  is  thick  or  clear,  which  I  leave  for 
jetter  scholars  to  discuss." 

The  notion  of  a  northwest  passage  leading  from  Hudson's 
Hay  seenjs  to  have  fallen  as  an  inheritance  from  Sir  Thomas 
Hut  ton  directly  unto  his  kinsman,  Captain  Gibbons,  a  mem- 
ber also  of  the  search-voyage  of  1012. 

Arriving  at  Hudson's  Hay  in  1(>14,  Captain  Gibbons  was 
harassed  by  violent  winds,  dense  fogs,  and  treacherous  ice, 
compelling  him  to  return  without  accomplishing  anything  of 
note. 

In  1G14  also,  Foth(»rby  and  Haffin  pushed  northward  but 
were  comi)elled  to  return  after  reaching  80°  In  1(115  Fotherby 
again  tried  the  route  directly  poleward,  but  was  unable  to 
get  beyond  Spitzbergoii.  During  the  same  year  the  northwest 
passage  was  essayed  by  way  of  Hudson's  Hay,  then  supposed 
by  some  to  be  a  gulf  or  inland  sea  communicating  directly 
with  the  great  South  Sea.  So  confident  of  success  were  the 
l)romoters  of  this  voyage  that  instructions  were  given  to  bring 
back  a  Japanese.  The  expedition  was  led  by  Bylot  and  Baffin, 
and  resulted  in  Captain  By  lot's  report  antagonizing  the  theory 
of  Button,  and  the  opinion  of  the  public  generally. 

Again,  in  IGIG,  these  careful  and  skillful  navigators,  with 
a  crew  of  but  fourteen  men  and  two  boys,  pushed  through 
Davis'  Strait,  meeting  with  icebergs  whose  height  above  the 
surface  of  the  water  they  computed  to  be  240  feet  and  length 
below  at  nearly  1,500  feer,  and,  entering  a  vast  expanse  of 
water, 

DISCOVERED  BAFFIN'S  BAY, 

which,  owing  to  the  peculiar  trenc.  of  the  western  coast  of 
Greenland,  they  judged  to  be  land-locked  on  the  north.  Smith, 
Jones,  and  Lancaster  Sounds,  which  they  entered  on  the  north 
and  west  of  the  bay,  they  thought  to  be  mere  smaller  bays, 
or  inlets,  opening  into  the  large  one  just  discovered,  instead 


OR,    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


67 


of  being  struitw  leadiug  to  larger  bodies  of  water  fartlier  north 
jind  west. 

And  now,  In  KIIO,  were  the  Dutcli,  nnder  tlie  liberal  i)at- 
ronage  of  the  broad-minded  Christian  I\'.  of  Denmark  jiiul 
Norway,  to  try  for  the  famous  northwest  passage.  Hy  tlie 
7th  of  September,  two  vessels  and  sixtj-live  men  had  safely 
passe<l  through  iludscm's  Strait  and  were  in  winter-quarU-rs 
ill  Ciiesterfield  Inlet,  off  the  northwest  eoast  of  Hudson's  Hay. 
An  able  navigator,  Jens  Munk,  was  in  command.  Bears,  hares, 
foxes,  partridges,  and  other  wild  game  were  secured  in  great 
abundance  duriug  the  fore  part  of  the  winter.  The  men,  how- 
ever, were  superstitious  and  attributed  every  unusual  occur- 
rence as  an  omen  of  evil.  The  intense  cold  caused  such  an 
expansion  of  the  brandy,  wine  and  beer  as  to  cause  the  casks 
(o  burst.  To  prevent  the  loss  of  the  liquor  they  drank  to 
excess,  and  this,  with  the  low  state  of  their  supplies  at  this 
period,  brought  on  disease. 

Wild  fowl  still  abounded,  but  the  men  were  unfitted  for 
obtaining  any.     Before  the  end  of  May,  1(120, 

WTNE,  BEER,  AND  SCURVY 

had  kilh'd  sixty-two  of  the  sixty-five  men.  Munk  and  two 
seamen  alone  survived.  Kemoving  the  snow,  they  obtained 
roots,  grasses  and  other  herbs  with  which  they  relieved  the 
scurvy.  Gaining  strength  they  dragged  their  bodies  to  a 
stream,  where  they  obtained  a  wholesome  supply  of  fish.  No 
longer  soaked  with  alcohol,  they  were  able  to  kill  birds  and 
larger  animals  and  in  time  to  refit  the  smaller  vessel.  Tliev 
then  set  sail  and  arrived  in  Norway  by  the  last  of  September. 

This  inordinate  use  of  spilt  liquor  reminds  the  writer  of  an 
occurrence  and  resulting  conversaticm  had  with  an  Irishman 
during  our  travels  in  the  western  portion  of  Iieland  in  18S5. 

Though  perhaps  foreign  to  the  matter  of  Arctic  narrative, 
we  give  it  as  a  truthful  illustration  of  "liistory  repeating  it- 
self," in  part  at  any  rate,  and  what  mi!!:ht  be  the  consequence 
to  Limerick  were  she  to  send  her  indulgent  sons  to  winter  in 
Arctic  regions. 


B8 


HE   SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


iw 


I  i 


i  ii 


if 


I 


Hero  la  the  incident:  One  <ljiy  in  paHsinjjj  a  ljirf;(»  brewery 
located  on  tlie  Shannon,  at  Ijinietick,  an  Irishman  called  onr 
atlention  to  a  portion  of  wall  forniinj;  a  larj;e  vvhiMky  vat  that 
had  recently  InirMted.    Said  he: 

"The  licpior  rin  al'  over;  it  filled  al'  the  sthrates  an'  the 
Shannon;  bnt,  be  j^orrj,  it  loike  to  tilled  the  ciniitnrry,  too." 
Awked  to  explain,  he  continned:  "Yer  honnr,  sur,.  the  liciuor 
what  Mthood  in  holes  an'  pools 

"HUNDREDS  0'  POOR  DIVILS 

Hucked  np  wid  <|ni!ls;  it  was  too  Hthran^  far  'em  entoirely,  snr, 
an'  they  loike  to  doid.  The  poison  o'  the  sthnff,  sur,  wouldn't 
o'  ^ot  out  o'  it  in  siven  yairs." 

For  a  quarter  of  a  century  Taptain  Luke  Fox  had,  as  he 
quaintly  puts  it,  been  "itchinj*-  after  northern  discovery  ever 
since  1(!(M1,  when  he  wished  to  have  j^'one  as  mate  to  John 
Knij>ht."  The  sorrowful  fate  of  that  brave  man  did  not  cure 
the  "itchin«»"  and  so,  in  KJ.'}!,  he  was  jj;iven  command  of  an 
Fnjilish  ship  and  sent  to  search  for  a  northwest  passage. 
IJefore  sailing;,  the  Kiny;  provided  him  with  a  letter  of  instruc- 
tions, a  chart  of  the  regions  previously  discovered,  and  a 

LETTER  OP  INTRODUCTION 

to  the  Emperor  of  Japan,  for  that  principality  was  considered 
to  be  near  the  also-supposed-uuremote  "New  Albion"  (Cali- 
fornia)  and  South  Sea  of  Drake. 

Reaching  Salisbury  Island,  latitude  03°  27',  in  Hudson's 
Strait,  he  noted  the  sluggishness  of  the  needle  and  ascribes 
it  to  "the  sharpness  of  the  air  interposed  between  the  needle 
and  the  attractive  point."  On  an  island  which  he  discovered 
in  the  northwest  part  of  Hudson's  Bay  he  found  a  burial- 
ground  of  the  Eskimos.  With  their  dead  rhoy  had  deposited 
bows,  arrows,  and  darts,  many  with  iron  heads,  and  a  single 
one  with  copper. 

Later,  he  found  the  cross  erected  by  Sir  James  Button  on 
the  Nelson  Biver.  Here  he  fell  in  with  the  vessel  of  Captain 
James,  also  on  a  search  for  the  mysterious  highway.    Fox 


OB,    LIFE    IN   THH   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


69 


rf^o  brewery 
It  called  our 
nky  vat  that 

•ati'H  an'  the 
liturry,  too." 
Vf.  the  liciuor 


atoirely,  siir, 
ur,  would ii't 

c  had,  aH  he 
^c'overy  ever 
ate  to  John 
ilid  not  cure 
niand  of  an 
?8t  passage, 
r  of  instrue- 
,  and  a 


shortly  afterwards  set  sail  for  England,  where  lie  arrived  Oc- 
toher  lUst.  Having  noticed  that  llu-  flow  of  the  tide  in  Uoe's 
Welcome,  in  the  northwest  portion  of  Ihnlson's  Hay,  sets  in 
from  the  north,  and  that  there  are  also  found  many  whales 
he  maintained  (hat  he  had  been  near  to  the  oft-searched-for 
passage  to  Japan. 

Fox  wrote  an  account  of  his  voyage  and  makes  grateful 
acknowledgment  that  he  had  "not  lost  one  man  or  boy,  nor 
any  manner  of  tackling,  having  been  forth  nearly  six  uionths; 
all  glory  be  to  (Jod."  Apologetically  of  his  bo(d{,  he  writes: 
"(icntle  reach'r,  expect  not  here  any  flourishing  phrases  or 
,elo(iuent  terms;  f(U'  this  child  of  mine,  begot  in  the  northwest's 
cold  clime,  where  they  breed  no  sch«)lars,  is  not  able  to  iligest 
the  sweet  milk  of  rhetoric." 

Rivaling  London  in  her  elforts  to  scdve  the  location  of  the 
northwest  passage  through  the  agency  of  Fox,  the  city  of 
Bristol  had  likewise  e(iui|)ped  a  vessel  (»f  seventy  tons  under 
command  of  ('ai)tain  Thomas  James,  He,  too,  was  furnished 
with  a  letter  of  introduction  to  the  Emp<'ror  of  Japan. 

The  crew  consisted  of  twcnly-two  active,  sobev,  and  unnmr- 
ried  young  men  who  had  never  before  made  a  voyage  to  those 
regions.  The  wise  forethought  of  Cai)tain  Janu's  had  pro- 
vided the  vessel  with  everything  needful,  the  supply  of 
provisions  being  for  eighteen  months.  At  the  entrance  to 
Hudson's  Strait  they  battled  incessantly  for  five  days  to  keep 
the  huge  icebergs  from  <'rushing  the  ship.  In  gratitude  for 
their  narrow  escajjc  they  uamtsl  a  place  of  refuge  which  they 
at  last  found,  "Harbor  of  God's  Trovideuce."  More  than  once 
again  the 

TERRIBLE  ICEPACK 

crunched  against  the  sides  of  the  vessel  and  made  her  tremble 
from  prow  to  stern.  At  am)ther  time  during  a  gale  the  anchor 
slipped  and,  in  again  catching,  the  sud<len  shock  hurled  eight 
of  the  men  from  the  capstan  with  such  violence  that  all  were 
injured,  the  gunner  having  a  leg  so  badly  crushed  that  it  was 
necessary  to  amputate  it  in  order  to  save  his  life. 

Proceeding  down  the  western  shore  of  the  bay,  meeting 


k^ 


60 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


with  Fox  in  the  vicinity  of  Nelson  River,  they  entered  the 
water  since  called  in  honor  of  the  navigator,  James'  Bay. 
Here  they  discovered  and  named  Weston  and  Roe  islands  in 
latitudes  52°  45'  and  52°  10'  respectively.  On  another  island, 
named  by  them  Charlton,  nearer  the  head  of  the  bay  they 
established  winter-quarters.  ' 

Here  they  cut  a  large  supply  of  wood  for  fuel  and  erected 
a  hut.  The  island  was  thoroughly  explored  to  ascertain  if 
there  were  any  savages.  None  were  found,  although  traces 
of  their  former  habitation  existed.  On  October  14th  a  deer 
was  shot  and  carried  twelve  miles  to  camp.  A  few  days  later, 
one  of  the  men,  while  out  on  a  hunting  and  exploring  trip^' 
broke  through  the  ice  and  was  drowned.     November  12th 

THE  HUT  TCOK  FIRE, 

but  they  were  able  to  save  it,  and  afterwards  kept  regular 
fire-watch.  The  gunner,  whose  leg  had  been  amputated  in 
consequence  of  the  fall  from  the  capstan,  died  on  the  22d.  A 
week  later  they  scuttled  and  sunk  the  ship  near  the  shore. 
They  saved  most  of  the  provisions  but  lost  their  clothes  and 
the  medicine  chest.     In  their  extremitv  thev 

PLEDGED  THEMSELVES 

to  be  faithful  to  one  another,  to  do  their  utmost  for  the  com- 
mon welfare,  and  to  be  obedient  to  their  commander,  even 
unto  death.  "• 

During  the  first  three  weeks  of  December  the  crew  were 
engaged  in  rescuing  goods  from  the  hold  of  the  sunken  ship. 
Three  more  huts  were  constructed,  and  being  covered  with 
snow,  they  were  made  more  comfortable.  By  the  end  of 
January  the  ground  was  frozen  to  the  depth  of  ten  feet. 
Knowing  nothing  of  the  influence  of  the  Gulf  Stream  at  that 
time,  or  of  isothermal  lines,  they  could  not  understand  why  it 
was  so  much  colder  than  on  a  corresponding  latitude  in  Ene- 
land.  •  ^ 

Frost-bitten  and  without  shoes,  their  feet  being  wrapped 
m  ran,  they  went  into  the  forest  to  gather  their  daily  supply 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


61 


of  fuel.    Disease,  sores,  and  swellings  placed  two-thirds  of 
them  under  the  surgeon's  care.     Among  these 

NOBLE  FELLOWS 

none  deserve  greater  praise  than  the  carpenter,  William  Cole 
a  hero  among  heroes.  After  the  scuttling  and  sinking  of  the 
ship  it  was  deemed  advisable  to  build  a  new  boat,  that, 
in  case  the  vessel  could  not  be  recovered  or  should  be'  found 
unseaworthy,  the.v  might  effect  their  escape  in  a  smaller  craft 
From  the  10th  of  December  to  the  18th  of  Mav  the  ill  and  dying 
carpenter  kept  at  his  work  till  the  last  mouh  iit,  leaving  it  in 
such  shape  that  the  men  could  have  finished  it. 

Four  days  later,  however,  they  pumped  the  ship  almost 
dry,  and  within  three  weeks  entirely  so  and  she  again  floated 
Now  followed  busy  preparations  for  departure.  Ballast  and 
provisions  were  again  placed  on  board ;  memorial  cairns  raised 
over  the  graves  of  their  dead;  a  cross  was  erected;  the  one  lost 
at  sea  recovered  and  interred  with  his  silent  comrades;  a  last 
visit  paid  to  these  lonely  sepulchers,  where  morning  and  even- 
ing prayers  were  said ;  and,  finally,  a  record  of  past  events  and 
future  intentions  left  by  the  Captain  at  the  cross,  upon  which 
was  inscribed  the  names  of  the  King  and  Queen  of  England 
with  the  added  titles  of  New  Foundland,  and  of  "these  terri- 
tories to  New  Albion." 

It  may  be  here  remarked  that  Captain  James  had  enter- 
tained an  idea  of  finding  a  passage  leading  from  the  head  of 
the  bay  to  the  "Kiver  of  Canada"— the  St,  Lawrence. 

Before  leaving,  this  noble  commander  composed  the  follow- 
ing memorial  lines: 

"I  were  unkind,  unless  that  I  did  shed 
Before  I  part,  some  tears  upon  our  dead; 
And  when  my  eyes  be  dry,  I  will  not  cease 
In  heart  to  pray  their  bones  may  rest  in  peace. 
Their  better  parts,  good  souls,  I  know  were  given, 
With  the  intent  that  they  return  to  Heaven. 
Their  lives  they  spent  to  the  last  drop  of  blood, 
beek.ng  .to..  s  giOry  and  their  country's  good; 
And  as  a  valiant  soldier  rather  dies 


m 


p 


I  m 


I      1!] 


r 


62  THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 

"Than  yield  his  courage  to  his  enemies, 
And  stops  their  way  with  his  hew'd  flesh  when  death 
Hath  quite  deprived  him  of  his  strength  and  breath; 
So  have  they  spent  themselves,  and  here  they  lie, 
A  famous  mark  of  our  discovery. 
We  that  survive,  perchance  may  end  our  days 
In  some  employment  meriting  no  praise; 
They  have  outlived  this  fear,  and  their  brave  ends 
Will  ever  be  an  honor  to  their  friends. 
Why  drop  you  so,  mine  eyes?    Nay,  rather  pour 
My  sad  departure  in  a  solemn  shower. 
The  winter's  cold  that  lately  froze  our  blood. 
Now,  were  it  so  extreme,  might  do  this  good, 
As  make  these  tears  bright  pearls,  which  I  would  lay 
Tomb'd  safely  with  you,  till  dooms  fatal  day; 
That  in  this  solitary  place,  where  none 
Will  ever  come  to  breathe  a  sigh  or  groan. 
Some  remnant  might  be  extant  of  the  true 
And  faithful  love  I  ever  tender'd  you. 
Oh!  rest  in  peace,  dear  friends,  and — let  it  be 
No  pride  to  say— the  sometime  part  of  me. 
What  pain  and  anguish  doth  afflict  the  head. 
The  heart  and  stomach,  when  the  limbs  are  dead. 
So,  grieved  I  kiss  your  graves,  and  vow  to  die 
A  foster-father  to  your  memory." 

l)uriu}»-  the  entire  month  of  Jnly  these  heroic  souls  were 
tossed  and  driven  about  by  wind  and  ice  within  James'  Bay, 
and  it  was  not  till  the  close  of  Auj^ust,  after  repeated  es'-apcs 
from  storm  and  ice,  that  they  were  beyond  the  perils  of  Hud- 
son's Bay,  nor  till  the  22d  of  October,  1G32,  having  been  hai- 
assed  by  adverse  winds  to  the  very  last,  after  an  a''  ?ence  of 
seventeen  months  and  five  days,  or  very  nearlj^  the  period  for 
which  Captain  James  had  at  the  first  provisioned  his  exi)e(li 
tion,  that  they  once  more  dropped  anchor  in  Bristol  Harbor. 

Nearly  midway  between  Spitzbergen  and  Iceland  is  the 

LONELY  ISLE  OF  JAN  MAYEN. 

discovered  in  IGll  by  the  sturdy  captain  of  a  Dutch  whaler, 
Jan  Mayen  by  name,  and  for  whom  it  was  named.  In  about 
the  same  latitude  as  Ilammerfest  and  within  the  temperiiifj 
influences  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  its  winters  are  comparatively 
mild  for  the  Arctic  regionSj  and  spring  there  returns  at  an 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD, 


63 


early  date.  This,  too,  was  early  found  to  be  a  nursery  for 
whales  and  was  aceordingiy  made  the  headquarters  for  the 
capiure  of  those  mammals. 

\Vith  Auj^ust  20, 1033,  seven  men  began  a  voluntary  sojourn 
there  till  the  return  of  the  whaling  fleet  the  following  sum- 
mer. It  does  not  appear  that  the  cold  was  great  until  the 
19th  of  November,  by  which  time  the  sea  became  frozen  as  far 
as  could  be  seen.  Three  weeks  of  mild  weather  followed,  when, 
on  the  8th  of  December,  the  cold  again  increased,  and  for  the 
next  four  months  they  shut  themselves  within  their  hut, 

IDLE  AND  INACTIVE, 

meanwhile  living— dying  rather— upon  beer,  brandy,  and  salt 
meat.  Notwithstanding  that  bear  flesh  was  to  be  had,  they 
allowed  the  scurvy  to  secure  such  a  hold  upon  them  that  by 
the  3d  of  April  but  two  of  the  seven  could  stand.  In  the  lat- 
ter part  of  the  month  this  record  appears: 

"We  are  now  reduced  to  so  sad  a  state  that  none  of  my 
comrades  can  help  themselves,  and  the  whole  burden,  there- 
fore, lies  upon  my  shoulders.  I  shall  perform  my  duty  as  long 
as  I  am  able,  and  it  pleases  God  o  give  me  strength.  I  am 
now  about  to  assist  our  commander  out  of  his  cabin;  ho  thinks 
it  will  relieve  his  pain;  he  is  struggling  with  death. 

"The  night  is  dark,  and  the  wind  blows  from  the  south." 
April  23d  he  died.  Three  days  later  the  survivors  killed  their 
dog  for  food.  By  the  last  of  the  month  the  bay  was  clear  of 
ice  and  the  sun  shone  brilliantly. 

The  record  of  April  30th  was  the  last  made.  Here  ends 
the  history  of  seven  men  who  sacrificed  their  lives,  not  through 
the  severity  of  climate,  but  through  ignorance  and  lack  of 
energy  and  forethought. 

IN  BRIGHT  CONTRAST 

\N  ith  the  foregoing  events  on  Jan  Mayen  Island  is  the  fetory 
of  another  little  company  of  volunteers  who  spent  nearly  nine 
months  during  the  same  year  on  North  Bay,  latitude  80  ,  Spitz- 


64 


THE    SEARCH    FOB   THE    NORTH   POLE; 


bergen,  and  therefore  niue  degrees  farther  north  than  the  pre- 
ceding party.     They  were 

SEVEN  OTHER  DUTCHMEN, 

who,  no  sooner  tlian  the  whaling  vessels  had  left  them,  began 
to  gather  herbs,  hunt  the  reindeer,  whales,  norwhales,  and 
wild  fowls,  and  thus  provide  not  only  food  but  also  healthful 
exercise.  ^ 

AN'hen,  on  May  27,  1634,  the  fleet  again  arrived,  every  man 
was  taken  on  board,  not  one  having  even  been  ill  during  their 
sojourn. 

Again  were  seven  men  left  at  North  Bay  before  the  return 
of  the  fleet  homeward  in  1634.  With  them  was  left  an  abun- 
dance of  liquors  and  salt  meat.  But,  lacking  the  energy  and 
common  sense  of  their  immediate  predecessors,  they  failed  to 
exercise  and  to  lay  in  a  supply  of  fresh  meats.  And  so,  begin- 
ning with  January  14th,  one  by  one  they  died,  until,  at  the 
arrival  of  the  fleet  in  1635,  none  survived. 

Less  than  thirty-five  years  later,  a  Frenchman,  Grosselier 
by  name,  had  penetrated  through  the  wilds  of  Canada  until 
he  arrived  upon  the  shores  of  Hudson's  Bay.  He  believed 
that  he  had  made  a  remarkable  discovery,  and  at  once  has- 
tened to  report  the  same  to  his  sovereign,  Louis  XIV.  of 
France.     Deaf  ears  rewarded  his  pains. 

He  then  went  to  England,  where  his  story  resulted  in  the 
formation  of  the 

HUDSON'S  BAY  COMPANY, 

in  1()70,  with  liberal  charter  privileges  from  King  Charles  XL 
It  was  believed  that  Grosselier  and  two  English  com- 
panions had  discovered  the  northwest  passage,  and  accord- 
ingly an  expedition  was  once  more  sent  to  search  for  it  in  the 
name  of  the  English  monarch. 

CAPTAIN  ZACHARIAH  GILLAM 

was  placed  in  command,  and,  sailing  to  the  head  of  James' 
Bay,  built,  at  the  mouth  of  Kupert  Kiver,  a  small  stone  fort, 
thus  establishing  the  first  English  settlement  in  the  territory 


ti  the  pre- 


m,  began 
ales,  and 
healthful 

very  man 
L'ing  their 

he  return 
an  abun- 
lergy  and 
failed  to 
so,  begin- 
il,  at  the 


jirosselier 
ada  until 

believed 
once  has- 

XIV.  of 

ed  in  the 


harles  II. 
lish  com- 
[1  aecord- 
'  it  in  the 


)f  James' 
tone  fort, 
territory 


,«  ^h\  ^''^1!'.'"  '"*!'';'"''*ers-.  •I",",',"^  »'"'  "AiiKuwtus  -Hark.  (2.)  While  Wi.lf 
{H<><j(t),  anil  \u'w<.r'l)<>j,'-iib  Hock  -Hack.  CI.)  I'lisHinu  Tliroutfli  I'ort  T.Htii  (in 
the  ic".  .Fiin»i;.5,  1H2I  Hiick.  d.)  Hlooilv  Kail,  .Juiv  W,  l.><21 -Hack.  (.:>,)  Midnight 
Nii'Wdt  Arc!  ic  Ocean  troin  MontJKiK '<.i)|MrMiiiie  River  -Hack.  (0.)  Doubliiitr  ('aD« 
Harrow,  .July  jr.,  IHJl-Hack.     (Sei"  Chapter  VI.)  M"fe  wips 


r 

r| 

J 

^i 


(1.)     PointTumAKinn,  Anijnst2i,  1821-nack.    (2.)    Caiioc  Broaching  to  Oii\<"  at 
Sunrise.  August  28  1H21-H.M.(I.     (a.)   Landing  in  a  Storm,  AuKUst  2;i,    H21      (i."   En. 


K>kini()s  PillHi?inirtlio  Boats-Back.    (See 


Falls  of  Wilbcrforco,  25u  fiM>t  lii«li 
(-'hnpter  VI.) 


(fi.) 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  (jj 

of  the  Hudson  Bay  Conipau.y.  Passing  an  uneventful  winter 
on  Charlton  Island,  he  returned  to  England  without  having 
made  the  great  discovery  that  was  expected  from  the  reports 
of  Grosselier,  who  accompanied  him  as  sub-ordinate  officer. 

A  SAILOR'S  YARN 

spun  into  tlie  ears  of  the  King's  hydrographer  led  not  only  that 
tlieorist  but  many  of  the  foremost  men  of  England  into  re- 
newed belief  that  there  could  yet  be  discovered  a  northeast 
j)assage  to  Japan  and  the  Malay  Archipelago.  Charles  11. 
and  his  brother,  the  Duke  of  York,  afterwards  Janu-s  II.,  were 
among  the  converts. 

The  story,  related  to  JMoxon,  the  hydrographer,  by  the  pilot 
of  a  Greenland  whaling  vessel,  is  as  follows: 

"Whereupon,  his  relation  being  novel  to  me,  1  entered  into 
discourse  with  him,  and  seemed  to  question  the  truth  of  what 
he  said;  but  he  did  assure  me  that  it  was  true,  and  that  the 
ship  was  then  at  Amsterdam,  and  many  of  the  men  belonging 
to  her  could  justify  the  truth  of  it ;  and  told  me,  moreover,  that 
they  had  sailed  two  degrees  beyond  the  pole.  I  asked  hhn  if 
they  found  no  laud  or  islands  about  the  pole.  He  replied, 
'Xo;  it  was  a  free,  open  sea.'  I  asked  him  if  tliey  did  not 
meet  with  a  great  deal  of  ice.  He  said,  'No;  thev  saw  no  ice.' 
I  asked  him  what  weather  they  had  there.  He  told  me,  'Fine, 
warm  weather,  such  as  was  at  Amsterdam  in  the  summer 
time,  and  as  hot.'" 

Captain  John  Vv^iod,  a  naval  hero  under  Marlborough,  easily 
persuaded  the  King  and  his  brother  the  Duke  to  tit'out  two 
vessels,  the  "Speedwell,"  with  sixty-eight  men,  and  the  "Pros- 
perous," eighteen  men,  for  a  voyage,  following  the  old  course 
of  Barents,  between  Nova  Zenibla  and  Spitzbergen.  The  ships 
under  command  of  Wood,  were  provisioned  foi-  sixteen  months,' 
and  loaded  with  merchaiulise  for  the  Japanese  market. 

Bounding  North  Cape,  on  June  22d,  Wood  sailed  northeast 
till  stopped  by  the  ice  in  latitude  7(r.  He  also  concluded  that 
Barents  and  all  other  navigators  before  him  were  mistaken 
m  supposing  land  to  extend  beyond  80°. 


r 


66  THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 

Abandoning  his  chorlHlied  idea,  li«'  turned  his  vessels  west- 
ward, when,  suddenly,  while  enveloped  in  dense  fog,  the  "Speed- 
well" 

WENT  TO  PIECES  ON  A  ROCK, 

the  men,  however,  with  one  exception,  making  good  their 
escape  to  the  shore — on  the  westernmost  promontory  of  Nova 
Zembla.  From  the  wreckage  washed  ashore  they  obtained 
l)rovisions  and  wood  for  huts  and  fuel.  Fortunately,  a  week 
later,  July  8th,  the  "I'rosperous,"  having  escaped  dam- 
age on  the  rocks,  returned  in  search  of  her  companion  vessel, 
and,  tnking  on  board  the  shipwrecked  men,  returned  to  Eng- 
land August  23,  ItnG. 

Forty-three  years  later,  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  insti- 
tuted another  search  for  copi)er  and  the  northwest  passage. 

The  existence  of  a  rich  mine  of  this  metal  on  the  banks  of 
a  navigable  river  north  of  the  company's  headquarters,  on 
the  Nelson  Kiver,  had  been  reported  by  the  natives,  and  at 
length  James  Knight,  eighty  years  of  age,  then  at  the  head 
of  the  company's  affairs,  persuaded  them  to  send  him,  "by 
Ood's  i)ermissiou  to  find  out  the  Straits  of  Ainan,  in  order 
to  discover  gold  and  other  valuable  commodities  to  the  north- 
ward." This  old  nmn,  with  two  vessels  in  immediate  command 
of  George  Barlow  and  David  Vaughan,  sailed  in  either  the 
summer  or  autumn  of  1710.  But  tliev  never  returned.  All 
that  has  since  been  learned  of  their  fate  will  be  found  in  i  on- 
sidering  the  expedition  of  Ilearne,  a  half  century  later. 

In  1722  a  rescuing  party  under  Captain  Scroggs  was  sent 
to  search  for  the  missing  ships.  Sailing  northward  from 
Churchill  Kiver,  in  Button  Bav,  thev  i-  turned  with  no  infor- 
mation  save  a  confirmation  of  the  report  concerning  the  exist- 
ence of  a  copper  mine  "somewhere  in  that  country." 


OR,   LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


67 


CHArTER  III. 

RUSSIAN    ARCTIC    VOYAGES. 

Notwithstandinj;  tlio  early  and  repeated  eft'ortH  of  the  En- 
julisli  and  Dutch  to  discover  a  northeast  passage,  nothing  was 
known  of  the  Arctic  regions  of  Siberia  east  of  the  Yen-i-se-i 
even  as  late  as  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth  century. 
Doubtless  before  this  time,  adventurers  in  search  of  furs  and 
game  had  penetrated  far  Avithin  the  interior,  but  the  accounts 
of  the  journeys  thus  made  do  not  appear  to  be  of  authentic 
natures. 

As  previously  shown,  it  was  not  until  the  efforts  of  Chan- 
cellor, in  1554,  to  traverse  that  sought-for  passage,  that  Russia 
was  induced  to  take  an  interest  in  maritime  enterprises  by 
showing  her  a  way  of  obtaining  goods  from  West  Europe  au-l 
beyond,  without  having  to  receive  them  through  her  rivals 
and  enemies,  the  Poles. 


THE  FIRST  ARCTIC  VOYAGE 

made  by  the  Russians  was  in  KUO.  This  was  by  private  ad- 
venturers, who  coasted  for  two  days  eastward  from  the  month 
of  the  Kolyma  River.  The  main  body  of  ice  had  grounded  on 
a  shelving  ledge  of  the  coast,  thus  leaving  a  narrow  channel  of 
water  between  it  and  the  land,  in  which  they  plied  their  small 
craft.  Having  met  a  tribe  of  Chook-chee  Eskimos,  articles  of 
barter  were  exchanged,  after  the  manner  of  the  tribes  of 
Africa  and  as  described  by  Herodotus.  The  Russians  first 
placed  their  wares  upon  the  beach  and  then  withdrew-,  where- 
upon the  natives  selected  such  as  they  desired,  leaving  instead 


1 


'■- 


\l 


68 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


a  quantity  of  walruH  tusks,  which  the  adventurers  gathered 
and  carried  L  )nie.     Two  years  later,  in  1048, 

DE3T1NEPF, 

a  ( 'ossack,  left  the  Kolviua  in  c<»inniaud  of  seven  vessels,  four 
of  which  were  soon  lost.  Bej^inninj;  his  account  with  the  great 
cape  of  the  Chook-chees,  undoubtedly  Cape  Kast,  Deshneff 
says:  "r  is  situated  between  the  north  and  northeast,  and 
turns  circularly  toward  the  river  Anadir.  Over  against  tue 
•  ape  are  two  islands,  upon  which  Wv^'e  seen  sonn>  men  of  the 
Chook-chee  nation,  who  had  holes  pierced  in  their  lips,  through 
which  were  ^tu.k  pieces  of  the  teeth  of  the  sea  horse."  These 
were  evidently  Alaskan  Eskimos. 

Only  one  of  the  three  renniining  vessels  succeeded  in  reach- 
ing the  mouth  of  the  Anadyr,  which  empties  into  the  gulf  of 
the  same  name,  the  other  two  having  been  either  lost  or  left 
behind.  It  has  been  conjectured  that  an  attempt  was  niadf 
to  carry  them  across  the  promontory,  a  circumstance  that 
would  recall  the  transportation  across  the  Isthmus  of  Panama 
of  the  tirst  vessel  launched  upon  the  Pacitic.  He  this  as  it 
may,  it  is  clear  that  Deshneff  was  the  tirst  to  sail  through 
Bering's  Strait.  His  last  vessel  was  wrecked,  however,  a  little 
south  of  the  mouth  of  the  Anadyr,  and  the  crew,  consisting  of 
twenty-five  men,  set  out  to  return  overland.  Having  wan- 
dered ten  weeks  through  an  uninhabited  waste,  they  arrived 
upon  the  bank  of  a  stream  occupied  by  a  small  tribe  of  An- 
au-li,  whom  they  at  once  exterminated.  Their  cruelty,  how- 
ever, resulted  somewhat  later  in  increasing  their  own  suf- 
fering. 

Deshneff's  discovery  led  to  extensive  trafiic  with  the  tribes 
north  of  Kam-chat-ka,  but  this  was  carried  on  mostly 
through  the  interior.  A  half  century  uiter,  in  KJOO,  the  Rus- 
sian and  Cossack  merchant-adventurers  plundered,  ander  pre- 
text of  taxation,  the  native  villages  farther  south  and  along 
the  course  of  the  Kamchatka  Kiver.  In  the  following  year 
Vla-di-mir  At-las-soff,  a  Cossack  officer,  bent  upon  the  con- 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THR   GREAT   WHITE    WOULD. 


69 


(|ue8t  of  Kaintliatkn,  travorsed  the  region  beivveen  the  Ir- 
kutsk and  Anadyr  rivcrH. 

He  states,  bnt  npou  what  anlhorlt.v  is  unknown,  that  be- 
tween the  Kol.vnia  and  the  Anadyr  ar<'  two  great  capes,  the 
more  west(»rn  of  wiiich  -probably  Capr  North— could  not  be 
rounded  b\  any  vessel  by  reason  of  great  (luantities  of  ice 
to  be  found  there  at  all  times. 

The  Kani-cha-dales  were  easily  conquered.  They  are  de- 
scribed as  being  smaller  than  the  Chook-chees,  with  small 
faces  and  great  beards,  living,  during  winter,  undergi<(und, 
but,  during  the  summer,  in  cabins  raised  from  the  ground  on 
posts,  the  entrances  being  reached  by  means  of  ladders.  A 
few  years  later, 

STAD-U-CHIN 

left  the  Ko-ly-raa  in  order  to  explore  by  sea  the  great  Cape  of 
tli<  rhook-chees.  Before  arriving  there,  however,  he  aban- 
doned his  ship  and  proceeded  to  cross  the  ist  iiius  at  its  nar- 
row 'st  pan,  leaving  unexplored  all  that  region  lying  next  to 
Heriig's  Strait. 

Kussia  now  being  determined  to  complete  the  subjugation 
of  the  tribes  in  that  section  of  Siberia,  an  embassy,  the  chief 
of  which  was 

i^ETER  SIN  POPOFF. 

was  sent,  in  1711,  to  require  hostages  of  the  Chook-chees. 
The  demand  was  refused,  and  not  until  after  :    resistance  of 
seven  years  did  they  formally  submit  at  the  iius^  an  fort  which 
had  been  erected  at  the  mouth  of  the  Anadyr,     l»opotf  wrote 
ati  account,  not  only  of  the  peoi>]e  couipiered,  but  also  of  the 
Alaskans,  from  whi<  h  it  appears  that  no  trees  grow  at  Cho«dv- 
chee  "Nos",  or  Cai-   ,  that  on  the  shore  near  f  he  cape  were  seen 
vast  (|uantities  of  walrus  teeth;   tha!  the  Cho<»k-chees  invoke 
the  sun  to  guarantee  the  performance  of  engagements  made 
by  them;   that  some  of  them  owned  flocks  of  reindeer,  thus 
compelling  them  to  change  their  places  of  residence;    that 
others,  not  possessing  irindeer,  lived  on  the  coast  on  each 
side  of  the  cape  and  subsisted  upon  iish  and  walrus;  that  they 


*;i 


70 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


sdinctinH'H  llvod  in  "(lug-outs,"  or  habitations  liollowod  from 
tiic  earth;  that  oj»posite  to  the  cape  was  to  hv  seen  a  large 
ishnul,  ki»owu  to  theui  as  the  "(Ireat  (Vuintrv"  -uu<huibt«Mllv 
Alaska  wiiose  inliahitants  spoke  a  ditTereut  language  fnun 
theirs  and  wore  in  tln'ir  cheeks,  b.v  way  of  ornauientation, 
pieces  <d'  walrus  teeth,  an«l  who,  like  the  (Miook-chees,  used  the 
bow-and-arrow.  I'opotY  saw  aiutuig  the  Chook-clu'es  ten  pris 
onern  fnun  "the  Oreat  Country"  thus  decorate<l.  lie  also 
learne*!  that  in  winter  this  country  may  be  reached  in  one 
day,  traveling  with  reindeer  and  sledge  over  the  sea  ice,  and  in 
summer,  in  the  same  time  with  canoes,  which  ai'e  made  of 
whalebone  covered  with  seal  skins.  Half  way  between  the 
cap*'  and  the  (Jreiit  Country  was  an  island,  either  (Mark's  or 
St.  Lawrence,  from  which,  on  a  clear  day,  th«'  (Jreat  Country 
could  be  seen.  In  making  the  journey  fnuu  the  cape  to  the 
Anadyr,  ten  weeks,  without  storm  or  acchlent,  were  re(pnre(l 
by  reindeer  if  made  to  draw  a  loaded  sledge.  At  the  caju', 
the  only  wild  animals  were  wolves  and  red  foxes;  in  the  (Ireat 
Country,  there  were  to  be  foun<l  bears,  sables,  martens,  otters, 
wolves,  and  many  kinds  of  foxes.  Popoff  estinuited  the  male 
adults  of  both  coast  and  inland  Cho(dv-chees  at  2,(MM);  those 
of  tlu'  Creat^ Country,  (»,0(H>.  He  also  learned  that  some  of 
the  latter  ])ossessed  herds  of  tanu'  reindeer. 

PETER  THE  GREAT'S  INTEREST  IN  ARCTIC  RESEARCH 

will  be  seen  from  his  having,  just  prior  to  his  death,  specifically 
])lanne(l  two  expeditions  for  northern  research.  The  tirst  of 
these  was  to  proceed  from  Archangel  eastward  through  tlic 
ice  of  the  Arctic  Sea  and  explore  the  north  coast  of  Siberia, 
This,  however,  came  to  naught,  owing  to  the  besetment  of  tlic 
v<'ssels.  The  second  was  to  proceed  overland  to  Kam-chat-kii 
and,  having  there  built  a  vessel,  to  sail  northward  and  ascer- 
tain the  position  of  the  Anu'rican  coast.  Peter  himself  did 
not  believe  that  there  was  a  strait  separating  the  two  conti 
nents.  Ignorant  of  the  vast  eastern  extension  of  Siberia  and 
of  the  width  of  the  Pacitic  Ocean,  he  was  desirous  of  opening  a 
way,  through  northeastern  Siberia,  to  the  rich  European  col- 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THF3   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


n 


ou'wH  of  Central  Ainciicu.  Tlu*  piTHou  Helected  by  the  Czar 
UH  rliicf  of  the  cxiKMlil  ion  was 

VITUS    BERING. 

a  Dano,  born  of  ChriHtian  parcntH,  at  IIorHouH,  in  1081.  Ills 
fatlier,  JonaH  Svcudsen,  held,  for  a  hvv'wh  of  yeai'H,  several  powi- 
tions  of  truHt,  while  his  mother,  the  Hecond  wife  of  Svendsen 
and  whoHe  maiden  name  was  Anna  Herinj;,  was  of  u  family 
who,  in  the  neventeenth  and  eijj;liteenth  eentnries,  iuclmled  a 
number  of  nunisterM  and  judicial  oflleerH.  In  worldly  poHHes- 
sions,  however,  the  i)arentH  were  poor,  as  may  be  judj-cd  from 
the  following;-  extract  of  probate  record  of  their  eHtute:  "We 
are  old,  miserable,  and  decrepit  peoi)le,  in  no  way  able  to  helj) 
ourselves.  Our  pro|)erty  consists  of  the  old  dilapiilated  honie 
and  the  furniture  thereto  belon^in}::,  which  is  of  but  little 
value."  The  share  of  this  small  property,  which  fell  somewhat 
later  to  Vitus,  amounting?  to  but  140  rij^sdaler,  its  lej^al  pos- 
sessor transferred  +o  his  native  town  to  be  distributed  among' 
its  j)oor. 

Inclination  and  force  of  circumstances  urged  young  Bering 
to  the  sea.  Upon  his  return  from  an  East  India  expedition, 
in  ITtKi,  he  met,  at  Amsterdam,  the  celebrated  Cornelius  Cruys, 
a  Xorwegian  by  birth,  but  at  that  time  admiral  of  the  Russian 
tl<'et.  lie  had  previously  Ix'en  assistant  master  of  ordnance 
in  the  Dutch  navy.  Through  him,  Bering  now,  at  the  early 
age  of  twenty-two,  entered  the  Ttussian  Heet  as  a  sub-lieuten- 
ant. His  advancement  there  was  steady  and  meritorious,  un- 
til at  length  we  find  him,  after  twentj'-one  years  of  faithful 
service  in  the  (V.ar's  navy,  at  the  head  of  the  first  of  his  great 
exjx'ditions,  each  of  which  is  unique  in  the  history  of  Arctic 
exjdorations. 

Peter  the  Great  died  January  28,  1725.  Only  four  days 
before  this  event,  one  division  of  Bering's  expedition  had  left 
St.  Petersburg  on  its  long  journey. 

Bering  f(dlowed  on  the  Hth  of  February.  His  chief  asso- 
ciates were:  Another  Dane,  Martin  Spangberg,  lieutenant 
and  second  in  command;  Lieutenant  Alexei  Chirikoff,  second 


\ 


r 


i'^ 


'72 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


lieutenant;  Peter  Chaplin,  Messrs.  Luskin  and  PatiloflF,  the 
cartographers;  Messrs.  Engel  and  Morison,  the  mates;  I)r. 
Nieniauu,  and  Kev.  Mr.  Ilarion.  Sailors,  carpenters,  sail- 
makers,  blacksmiths,  etc.,  composed  the  principal  subor- 
dinates. 

On  March  10th  the  expedition  arrived  at  Tobolsk,  whence 
t]ie  journey  continued  with  rafts  and  boats  on  the  rivers  Irtish, 
(^)bi,  Ket,  Yenisei,  Tunguska  and  Ilim,  between  which  it  was 
necessary  to  make  tedious  portages.  Arriving  at  Ilimsk— on 
the  Ilim— on  September  29th,  the  expedition  there  spent  the 
winter  of  1725-6.  Meanwhile,  Chaplin  was  sent  to  Ya-kutsk, 
the  capital  of  East  Siberia,  in  order  to  make  ready  for  the 
more  rapid  transportation  of  the  expedition  thence  to  Ok- 
hotsk, whither  he  was  to  send  a  small  party  of  ship-builders, 
who  were  to  fell  trees  and  begin  the  construction  of  a  vessel; 
Spangberg,  with  a  body  of  mechanics,  was  despatched  to  the 
Kut,  where  were  constructed  fifteen  barges,  each  forty-five  feet 
long  and  tAvelve  wide,  and  fourteen  boats,  for  river  transpor- 
tation in  the  spring;  while  Bering  himself  sought  information 
from  the  governor  at  Irkutsk  concerning  the  climate  and 
physical  features  of  East  Siberia,  the  modes  of  travel,  the  peo- 
ple, etc.,  of  that  comparatively  unknown  country. 

Not  until  the  middle  of  June,  1720,  did  the  expedition  reach 
Ya-kutsT:.  which  at  that  time  contained  300  houses.  Thence 
to  Ok-hotsk  war*  685  miles  of  rou  •  ,  mountainous  country, 
intersected  by  numerous  deep  streams  without  I  Jdges.  Tun- 
dras, swamps,  and  dense  forests  likewise  hindered  rapid  prog- 
ress. Deep  sno\,s  and  temperatures  of  from  40°  to  70°  F.  be- 
low zero  exliausted  horses,  dog.:,  and  reindeer.  Scores  of 
them  perished. 

From  Ya-kutsk  the  expedition  advanced  over  the  rough 
course  in  separate  divisions:  Spangberg,  with  thirteen  rafts 
and  204  Avorkmen,  started  on  the  7th  of  July  for  Yu-domsk-ay-a 
Krest  via  tributaries  Aldan,  Maya  and  Yudoma,  and  thence 
across  tlie  ridge,  for  the  Urak,  which  (>mpties  into  the 
sen  of  Ok  ]u!ts:k;  Bering  himself  started  on  August  16tb,  with 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


73 


l>()0  of  the  800  horses  belonging  to  the  expedition,  and  made 
tlic  journey  overland  in  fortj-tive  days. 

Ok-hotsk  at  this  time  contained  only  eleven  huts  and  ten 
liussian  families,  who  supported  themselves  by  tishingv  The 
entire  month  of  November  was  therefore  spent  in  felling  trees 
itnd  providing  winter  (juarters  for  the  expedition.  At  the 
Slime  time  Bering  pushed  for>vard  vigorously  the  construction 
of  the  ship. 

Still,  not  all  of  the  expedition  had  arrived.  Spangberg, 
having  been  overtaken  by  winter  on  the  Yu-do-ma.  275  miles 
southwest  of  Yu-domsk-ay-a  Krest,  there  left  the  boats  and  the 
hulk  of  the  provisions  in  charge  of  seven  men,  and  was  proceed- 
ing on  foot  with  his  command  with  what  provisions  they  could 
(iiiry  on  hand-sleds,  toward  Ok-hotsk,  while  Chi-ri-koff  was 
somewhere  far  in  the  rear. 

Of  the  belated  forces,  Spangberg's  fared  the  worsl.  The 
Icmperature  was  so  low  that  mercury  remained  congealed 
and  the  snow  soon  attained  a  depth  of  six  feet.  This  com- 
pelled them  to  abandon  the  sledges,  and  for  eight  weeks,  be- 
ginniii.;  with  November  4th,  cold  and  famine  followed  con- 
stantly in  their  tracks.  Straps,  leather  bags  and  shoes  be- 
came their  only  food.  Every  man  must  have  perished  had 
they  not  providentially  hit  upon  Bering's  route,  where  were 
found  a  small  quantity  of  flour  and  some  dead  horses,  upon 
which  they  lived  till  relieved  by  [)arties  despatched  for  their 
assistance.  It  was  the  middle  of  January,  1727,  before  Sjjang- 
berg's  half-starved  command  Jirrived.  Eighteen  were  on  the 
sick  list.  The  rear,  under  Chi-ri-koff,  did  not  appear  till  mid- 
summer. 

From  Ok-hotsk  the  entire  ])arty  was  transported  across  the 
sea  of  Ok-hotsk  to  tlu^  mouth  of  the  Kiver  Bol-sho-ya,  in  the 
scmthwestern  part  of  Kam-chat-ka.  This  was  distant  050 
miles  and  was  not  reache<l  by  the  entire  commaml  till  the  4th 
of  Si'ptember.  Tn  the  course  of  the  mouth,  a  further  advance 
of  twenty  miles  Avas  made  to  Bol-she-retsk  ostrog,  or  "stock- 
aded post,"  on  the  Bcd-shoyn.  Tt  con.'iiRrod  of  a  siuiple  log 
fortress,  with    seventeen    Russian  dwellings  and    a    chapel. 


'  !  11 


74 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


From  this  point  the  natives  were  summoned  far  and  wide  to 
assist  in  transporting  tlie  sui>i)lies  during  the  winter  the  re- 
maining 585  miles  across  the  peninsuhi  to  the  lower  fort  on 
the  Kamchatka,  twenty  miles  from  its  mouth,  on  the  east  coast. 
At  that  time  the  extent  of  the  })eninsula  was  unknown,  an<l 
therefore  no  attemi)t  was  made  to  sail  around  its  southeiii 
e::tremity.  Upou  arriving  on  the  east  coast,  March  11,  172S, 
Bering  found  a  settlement  scattered  along  the  banks  of  the 
stream,  consisting  of  the  fort,  a  church,  and  forty  huts.  A  few 
(Cossacks  dwelt  here,  occupying  huts  built  above  ground,  and 
while  they  did  not  always  eat  their  fish  raw,  they  were  much 
like  the  natives  in  other  respects. 

Fortunately,  here  were  forests  of  larch,  which  afforded  <'X- 
cellent  material  for  ship-building,  and  which  Bering  proceeded 
at  once  to  use,  the  timber  being  drawn  to  the  ship-yar«l  by  the 
dogs.  The  tar  used  was  also  prepared  from  the  forests,  but 
the  cable,  anchors,  and  rigging  had  been  dragged  nearly  2,()00 
miles. 

On  the  9th  of  July,  the 


"GABRIEL," 

as  the  new  ship  was  called,  started  down  the  river,  and  four 
days  later  her  sails  were  hoisted.  With  "tish  oil  for  butter, 
and  dried  fish  for  beef  and  i>ork,  and  salt  obtained  from  the 
sea,"  the  undaunted  Bering,  with  his  gallant  crew  of  forty-four 
men,  followed  a  course  nearly  all  the  tim(»  along  the  coast 
nortlmard.  On  July  2Tth,  at  (^ape  Thaddeus,  the  sea  was 
alive  with  dolphins,  seals,  sea-lions,  and  spotted  whales. 

On  August  8th,  when  in  latitiule  04°  41',  eight  native  men 
were  seen  rowing  toward  the  "Oabriel,"  but  feared  to  draw 
near.  One  <»f  (hem,  however,  sprang  into  the  sea,  and,  resting 
upon  two  inflated  bladders,  swam  to  the  ship.  By  aid  of  the 
Koriak  inhrpreters  on  board  it  was  learned  that  the  natives 
were  ('hook-chees;  that  they  knew  tlK'  Russians  well;  that 
the  lUver  Anadyr  lay  far  to  the  west;  that  the  coast  e.Ueudeil 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREaT    WHITE    WORLD. 


75 


in  the  same  direction,  autl  that  the  "Gabriel"  would  seoii  come 
In  slj>lit  of  an  island. 

Heriug  gave  the  straujiers  some  small  presents  and  en- 
deavored to  persuade  them  to  come  ou  board.  Approaching 
the  vessel  they,  however,  suddenly  turned  „nd  disappeared. 

Proceeding  in  a  south-southeasterly  direction.  Cape  Chu- 
kot-skoi  was  doubled  on  the  9th.  Two  days  later  (11th,  ship's 
time;  10th,  calendar's)  an  island  was  discovered,  which  Bering, 
in  honor  of  the  day,  called  St.  Lawrence.  At  noon  the  latitu<le 
was  ()4°  20',  and  they  were  therefore  in  the  strait  separating 
Asia  and  America.  By  noon  of  the  14th  the  latitude  was  60" 
n ',  or  just  above  the  Arctic  Circle.  High  laud  appeared  astern 
and  by  three  o'clock  high  mountains  were  visible  to  the  west. 
Tlie'Miabriel"  had  passed  the  easternmost  extremity  of  Asia- 
East  (Vipe— in  latitude  00°  0',  and  longitude  190°  21'  East  of 
(Jreenwich.  When,  finally,  Bering's  bearings  on  the  same  day 
were  07°  18'  north  latitude  by  11)3°  7'  east  longitude,  he 
turned  back,  in  obedience  to  the  instructions  given  him  at  the 
beginning  of  the  expedition.  lie  could  no  longer  see  land  ex- 
tending toward  the  north  in  the  same  directio!i  and  had  there- 
fore accomplished  his  mission.  The  next  morning,  in  latitude 
0(1°  2',  another  island  was  discovered,  and,  in  honor  of  the  day, 
named  Diomede.  It  was  one  of  the  two  between  which  passes 
the  boundary  line  between  Russia  and  Alaska,  the  Russian 
Ix'ing  called  Rat-man-otf,  or  Im-ak-lit;  the  American,  Kru- 
sen-steru,  or  In-gal-i-sek. 

After  encountering  a  frightful  storm,  on  August  8lst,  dur- 
ing which  the  cable  broke  and  an  anchor  was  lost,  the  vess(d 
again  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Kamchatka,  September  2,  1728. 
This  was  more  than  three  and  a.half  years  since  the  expedition 
first  left  St,  Petersburg,  and  it  was  a  round  live  years  before 
its  leading  members  again  arrived  there. 

O.ily  two  months  after  his  return  from  the  first  expedition, 
VIZ.,  on  April  30,  17.30,  Bering  laid  before  the  admiralty  a' 
sclienie  which  emliraced  (1st)  the  charting  of,  and  the  estab- 
lishing of  commercial  relations  with,  the  American  and  Jap- 


H'  c(;a)stK,  and  (2d)  the  chart 


iug,  either  by  sea  or  land,  of  the 


76 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


Arctic  (V)jist  of  Hibeiia,  from  the  Obi  to  the  Leua.     These 
propositious  formed  a  basis  of 

THE  GREATEST  GEOGRAPHICAL  ENTERPRISE  EVER  UNDERTAKEN. 

Among  the  suggestions  relating  thereto,  Bering  urged  the 
importance  of  missionary  work  among  the  Ya-kuts,  more 
integrit}^  among  the  tax-gatherers,  better  discipline  among 
the  Cossacks  of  East  Siberia,  the  opening  of  iron  mines  at  Olf- 
liotsk,  U-diak,  etc. 

Two  years  elapsed,  hoAvever,  before  the  Russian  Court, 
busy  meantime  with  political  intrigues,  began  the  execution' 
of  these  proposals.  Bering  was  promoted  to  be  Captaiu-(;om- 
mander  of  the  ]iussian  fleet,  a  position  ranking  next  below  that 
of  Kear-Admiral,  and  was  also,  in  view  of  the  hardships  en- 
dured during  his  five  years'  absence,  voted  by  the  Senate  an 
award  of  |750.  This  august  body,  the  Academy,  and  the  Ad- 
miralty each  responding  to  the  insatiable  greed  of  the  Empress 
Anna  for  the  splendor  and  exterior  lustre  of  culture,  exerted 
themselves  to  make  the  undertaking  as  large  and  sensational 
as  possible.  Bussia  seemed  to  want  the  earth,  and  proceeded 
to  transform  her  Bering  into  an  Atlas.  He  Avas  made  the 
chief  of  the  triple  expeditions  east  of  the  Ural  Mountains— of 
the  American,  Japanese  and  Arctic— for  all  of  which  he  was 
to  provide  provisions,  transportation,  and  ships.  Decree 
after  decree  riveted  the  burden  more  firmly  upon  his  shoulders. 
He  was  directed  to  establish  a  dock-yard  in  an  out-of-the-way 
port,  to  supply  Ok-hotsk  with  more  inhabitants,  and  to  estab- 
lish there  schools  for  elementary  and  nautical  instruction;  to 
establish  irouAvorks  at  Ya-kutsk,  Udiak,  etc.;  to  transport  men 
and  horses  to  T^domsk-aya  Krest,  and  to  introduce  cattle-rais- 
ing on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

Not  to  be  outdone  by  the  Senate,  the  Academy,  througli 
the  zeal  of  its  young  German  members,  Johann  (Jeorg  Omelin, 
the  chemist,  and  Gerhard  Friedrich  Muller,  the  historian,  aged 
respectively  twenty-eight  and  tAA  enty-four,  imposed  additional 
tasks.  Besid(^s  the  elder  Gnielin,  physicis^t;  Muller,  historian, 
and  La  Croyere,  astronomer,  there  accompanied  this  depart- 


ua.     These 


DERTAKEN. 


nes  at  <)k- 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  '  77 

meat  oue  surgeon  one  interpreter,  one  irstrument-njaker  five 
surveyors,  six  scientific  assistants,  two  landscape  painters'  and 
fourteen  body-guards.  For  La  Crojere's  use  there  were  trms- 
IKuted  nine  wagon-loads  of  instruments,  which  included  tele- 
scopes thirteen,  and  fifteen  feet  in  length.    This  "Itinerant 
Academy"  also  carried  a  library  of  several  hundred  volumes 
including  scientific,  historical  and  classical  works,  and  others' 
of  light  reading,  such  as  "Gulliver's  Tra,'els"  and  "Kc.binson 
Crusoe,"  seventy  reams  of  writing  paper,  an  enormous  supply 
of  artists'  colors,  draughting  material  and  apparatus.    These 
gentlemen  had  not  less  than  thirty-six  horses,  and  <,u  laro-e 
rivers  could  demand  boats  with  cabins.  *' 

To  move  this  "learned  republic"  from  St.  Petersburg  to 
Kamchatka  became  one  of  the  many  duties  assigned  t..  lierincr 
\et  he  had  no  authority  over  its  members;  thev  were  willin*^v 
to  recognize  it  only  when  they  needed  his  assistan.e     "If" 
says  the  historian  Lauridsen,  "^t  had  been  the  purpose  of  the 
government  to  exhibit  a  human  parallel  to  the  4uu>pv  families' 
of  menageries,  it  could  hardly  have  acted-ditterent'lv.    In  all 
his  movements  Bering  was  hampered  by  this  academical  dead- 
weight.    The  professors  not  only  lacked  appreciation  of  Be- 
ring s  efforts  in  their  behalf,  but  they  also  besieged  him  with 
(omplaints,  made  record  of  them  and  wound  up-character- 
istically  enough-with  a  resolution  f^  .prefer  formal  charges 
Jigainst  him  before  the  Senate." 

All  told,  the  Academists  of  the  expedition  numbered  be- 
tween thirty  and  forty  men;  the  expeditionarv  f<,rce  proper 
al>out  5.0,  consisting  of  Vitus  Bering,  commmider;  Spang- 
herg  ami  Chirikoff,  captains;  eight  lieutenants,  sixteen  mates 
twelve  physicians,  seven  priests,  stewards,  sailors,  ship-car- 
penters, workmen,  etc  Of  these,  KK)  were  assigned  to  duty  in 
the  Ar(^c  division;  ,he  rest,  in  the  Pacifi,-.  More  than  half 
<'t  the  officers,  many  mates,  and  all  of  the  phvsicians  were  for- 
•'•gners  Most  of  the  officers  we-e  accompanied  bv  their  wives 
."id  children.     An  absen<-e  of  six  years  was  intended 

In  order  to  expedite  the  movements  of  this  i,ln„.st  uu-ov- 

ernablebodv,  thp«ihe'*i'5n '"i^lurUinc  ->>,.,      <?     «  ""^    « 

,  ,  iu_  _K.t .  uui  ttJiiionties,  many  of  whom  were  suf- 

6 


78 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


I    ' 


!  ' 


^'' 


foi'injji'  official  exile,  received  instructions  to  make  great  prepa- 
lalions.  Tlicv  were  to  purchase  fish,  cod-liver  oil,  and  veuisou, 
construct  magazines  and  light-houses  along  the  shore  of  the 
Arctic,  and  despatch  large  transports  to  the  Pacific.  They 
were  also  to  prepare  for  the  founding  of  salt  and  iron  works 
at  Ok-hotsk,  a  smaller  furnace  at  Yakutsk,  a  id  even  a  distil- 
lery on  Kamchatka  IN  niiisula.  All  these  dir'K-tions,  however, 
received  no  attention  from  the  unwilling  exiles,  some  of  whom 
indeed  constantly  opposed,  by  hatred  and  falsehocxl,  the  ad- 
vance of  the  expediti(m. 

On  February  1,  ITJW,  *  he  first  start  was  made.  Spangberg, 
with  laborers  and  heavy  marine  stores,  set  out  for  Ok-hotsk. 
On  the  18th  ot  March  Bering  proceeded  to  Tobolsk,  where  he 
supervised  the  constructiou  of  the  vessel  for  the  Arctic  expedi- 
tion. Meanwhile,  the  Academists  lingered  at  St.  Petersburg, 
and,  in  spite  of  Bering's  reciuests  for  them  to  make  haste,  did 
not  reach  Tobolsk  until  January  of  the  following  year.  From 
this  point,  on  the  14th  of  May,  1734,  the  first  Arctic  division, 
numbering  fifty-six  men,  under  the  efficient  Lieutenant  Ofzyii 
and  First  Mate  Sterlegoff,  stood  up  the  Irtish  for  the  Polar 
Sea.  Four  rafts  with  thirty  men  accompanied  them  as  far  as 
Obdorsk. 

On  the  19th,  Bering  took  his  departure  with  the  main  com- 
nuuid  and  the  Academists  for  Yakutsk,  where,  from  October  of 
that  year  till  the  last  of  June,  1735,  he  was  busily  engaged  in 
building  and  equipping  two  vessels  for  the  second  Arctic  di- 
vision. These  began  the  descent  of  the  Lena  on  June  30tli. 
One  of  them,  the  sloop  "Y^akutsk,"  Lieutenant  Pront-chi-shefT, 
First  Mate  (/hel-yus-kin,  Surveyor  Chekin,  and  about  fifty 
men,  was  to  proceed  westwardly  round  the  Taimur  Peuinsulii 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Y^en-i-se-i;  the  other,  the  decked  boat  "Ir 
kutsk;"  Lieutenant  Peter  Lassenius,  also  a  Dane  and  the  oldest 
of  Bering's  lieutenants,  with  more  than  fifty  men,  was  to  fol- 
low the  coast  in  the  opposite  direction  to  "Bering"  (Chook- 
chee)  Peninsula,  and  ascertain  the  relative  position  of  Asia 
and  Ai.ierica,  and  thence  to  sail  southward  to  the  peninsula 


OR,    LIKE    IN    THR    ORKAT    WHTTK    WnRT,r). 


79 


lud  veuisou, 
Lore  of  the 
L'itic.  Thi^y 
iron  works 
^eu  II  distil- 
ls, however, 
ne  of  whom 
)o<l,  the  ad- 

Spanj»berj>', 
ir  ()k-hotsk. 
k,  where  he 
'(•tic  expedl- 
Petersburji, 
e  haste,  did 
ear.  From 
tie  division, 
'iiaut  Ofzvii 
r  the  Polar 
'm  as  far  as 

?  main  com- 
1  October  of 

enj;aged  in 
\  Arctic  di- 

June  30th. 
nt-chi-shefl', 
about  fifty 
r  Peuinsula 
pd  boat  "li- 
id  the  oldest 

was  to  fol- 
tig"  (Chook- 
ion  of  Asia 
e  peninsulii 


(ifKauichatka.     Lassenins  was  also  to  find  the  Roar  Islands 
oil'  tl:;  mouth  of  the  Kolyma.  ' 

After  the  depai-ture  of  these  vessels,  P»erinjv  applied  his 
energies  to  the  I»acifi<-  division.  Waarves,  maj;azines,  bar- 
liicks,  winter  huts,  and  scores  of  water  crafts  were  constructed 
.•ilon<;-  the  river  route  to  Ok-hotsk.  At  Yakutsk  were  estab- 
lislicd  a  furnace  and  an  iron  foundry,  where  the  vessels  were 
supi)lied  with  anchors  and  other  iron,  and  here  were  received 
those  other  heavy  supplies  brought  from  West  Siberia  in  1735- 
3(1,  and  which  were  later  sent  to  Ok-hotsk. 

To  this  port,  as  already  noted.  Lieutenant  Span{,^berj>-  had 
jioue.  Here  the  banished  Major-Oeneral  IMs-sar-jetf,  then  re- 
duced to  a  sort  of  harbor-master  of  the  nlace,  became  his  im- 
phuable  persecutor.  The  Dane,  however,  was  not  easily  over- 
a-.ved,  and  in  the  autumn  of  173()  declared  that  he  would  rid 
himself  of  the 

"OLD  SCOUNDREL" 

and  compelled  him  to  flee  to  Yakutsk.     Here  he,  with  others, 
continued  to  obstruct  the  prooress  of  the  expedition. 

Notwithstaudinjjj  all  dimculties,  Bering  continued  during 
the  next  three  years  to  advance  the  enormous  stores— enough 
for  six  or  eight  vessels— toward  the  sea.  First,  down  the  Lena, 
then  up  the  Aldan,  Maya  and  Yudomu  rivers,  across  the  Stan- 
ovoi  Mountains,  and,  finally,  down  the  Urak  to  Ok-hotsk.  In 
this  work  more  than  1,000  men  were  employed. 

Meantime,  in  173(1,  ncnvs  reached  Bering  of  the  misfortunes 
attending  the  second  Arctic  division  which  had  descended  the 
Lena  the  year  previous.  Pron-chi-sheff  had  been  obliged  to  go 
into  winter  quarters  at  01-uek,  while  Lassenius,  after  reaching 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  was  likewise  obliged  to  seek  shelter  a 
little  eastward,  in  latitude  71°  28'.  Oore,  dnring  the  winter, 
Lassenius,  most  of  his  officers,  and  thiny-one  of  the  crew  died 
of  scnrvy.  A  relief  party  despatched  bv  Bering  found  onlv 
<'iglit  men  alive.  To  take  their  places  Bering  <lespatched  Lieu- 
«'"nnt  Dmitri  Laptjef,  Second  Mate  Plautin-  and  twenty- 
<l"(v  men.  Besides,  he  sent  two  boats  with  provisions  to  the 
"'<»'ith  of  the  Lena  and  a  ship-load  to  supply  the  magazines  on 


80 


THR  RRARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


(he  Andc  Toast.  To  lliis  he  pivc  his  i»orHoiial  attention.  The 
survivors  from  the  Irtish  were  tal<en  to  Yal\ntsl\,  where,  says 
Heriu};,  "bv  the  help  of  (J(h1  tliey  were  saved." 

Ill  the  suimiier  of  17IJ7  lieriiij^  toolc  up  his  liea(l<piarters  in 
Okhotsk,  wliicli  he  and  Spanj^berj;  built,  at  the  junction  of 
the  Ukhota  and  Kuklita  rivers.  Here  tlie.v  built  a  ehureh  for 
the  expedition,  barracks,  iiiaj;azines,  a  larj^e  dockyard,  and 
other  structures.  It  j;rew  to  be  the  Kussian  metropolis  on  the 
I'acitic.  "The  jilace,"  Svrites  lierin«»,  "is  new  and  des(date. 
We  have  sand  and  pebbles,  no  vej^etation  wliatever,  and  no 
timber,  in  the  vicinity.  Firewood  must  be  obtained  at  a  dis- 
tance of  four  or  five  miles,  drinkin<;'  water  from  one  or  two 
miles,  while  timber  and  joints  for  shippinj^  must  be  tloated 
down  the  river  twenty-tive  Jiiiles." 

In  this  swampy  place  Berinji,  lost  his  health.  Concerninji; 
his  iiosition  here  the  historian  Sokcdoff,  likewise  an  officer 
in  the  Kussian  Navy,  says:  "Iterinji  stayed  three  years  in  Ok- 
hotsk, exertin<>-  himself  to  the  utmost  in  e(iui|»pinj;'  ex])editions, 
endurinjj;'  continual  vexations  from  the  Siberian  government — 
especially  on  account  of  IMssarjeff — and  conductiufi,  frequent 
examinations  and  investigations  into  the  quarrels  and  com- 
plaints of  his  subcu'dinates." 

With  respect  to  Pissai'jeff,  Bering-  writes:  "For  a  corre- 
spondence with  him  alone  I  nii<;ht  use  three  ^ood  secretaries. 
I  find  his  foul-tonjiued  criticism  extremely  offensive." 

Meantime,  in  173S,  S])an<;ber<i,  with  three  ships  and  15(1 
men,  discovered  and  i)artially  <liarted  the  Kurile  Islands,  and 
in  the  summer  of  the  following  year,  with  four  vessels,  contin- 
ued the  work  to  Japan,  thus  making  known  for  his  country  a 
route  to  that  commercially  important  region. 

Meanwhile,  too,  the  Arctic  divisions  were  continuing  their 
explorations.  In  the  summer  of  1737,  Ma-ly-gin  and  Sku-ra- 
toff  crossed  Kara  Sea  and  sailed  up  the  (Julf  of  Obi;  while 
Ofzyn  charted  the  coast  between  the  Obi  and  Yenisei.  The 
greatest  results,  howev<M',  were  obtained  by  the  two  cousins, 
Dmitri  and  riiaritoii  Lai)tji.'f,  between  the  years  173S  and  1748. 
They,  being  newly  equipped,  attacked  the  task  of  doubling  the 


•  a  corre- 
cretarics. 


' 


— ^ — 

M&i 

V  .I,,,      111     Kill  of  tlip  Harrow-Lyon.      ').)    Smiimfr  liMits  i<.t>(al- 

,lnrk.-r  VV.^''un!;,  h    V-     m-lik     K''     U    n      (6.)     Kski.no  of   K'-loo-l.k,    in    liin l.rkli. 
Jaekot     hyoJ;     a.)'E."kin^^^^^  Leader  of  tl.o  T..a,n  hcnu  tl,.- •K.n^' 

DoK-Lyon.    (See  Chapter  Vlll.) 


Taimur 

t(i  tU'dt  ( 

noi'fli  'P 
since  ct; 
(Iciidoif 
ceeded  : 
that  am 

IIIUNf  b«» 

scvcraiK 

stands  ] 

Taiiii.vi' 

Dniil 

charted 

th<»  moil 

through 

I  iide.     J 

l>i'cvi(nis 

lictu 

1740  foil 

nine  vcsi 

ofOkhot 

Wcii; 

sailed  to 

Here  a  f( 

tcr,  the  1 

I'eter  an^ 

Final 

iij;ain  \v( 

Nvas  in  ii 

seven  nu 

with  s(n'( 

search  fo 

came  sep 

F<n'  til 


OR.    r.iFB    IN    THE    OREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


81 


Taimur  an«!  .  'look-cluM'  pciiiii.snlas.  ('Iiaiit<m,  by  cxU'Iin'v*' 
HUMlj»in(«  vipa,  coniicchMl  tho  cnnHt  wewtwanl  from  the  Lena 
to  that  ex  lorcd  eastward  from  (he  Yenisei  by  Minin  and  St<'i'- 
Ie^(d1',  wh     '  his  mate,  V\    \yr    Kin.         "HJ,  attained  tlie  most 

mn'tii   I'ly  point    .u  tlie  maiiil.,        dd  world,  a  hea<lhiiid 

since  .  alh'd  in  his  honor.  Con.  erninn'  this  event,  says  Mi<l- 
dendorf:  '*IIe  is  the  only  „no  who,  a  centni-y  aj-o,  liad  sn<- 
ceeded  in  reaciiMio-  u  i  donblinj;  this  promontory.  Tlie  fact 
(hat  amon<»-  many  he  alone  Avas  successful  in  this  eiderprise, 
must  be  attributed  to  his  j^n-eat  ability.  On  account  of  his  per- 
severance, as  well  as  his  careful  and  exact  measurements,  he 
stauds  pre-eminent  amon<;'  seani'  u  who  have  labon-d  in  the 
Taimyr  country." 

Duiitri  Laptjeff,  as  the  immediate  successor  '>f  Lassenius, 
charted  the  coast  from  the  mouth  of  the  Lena  <  astward  bevoud' 
the  mouth  of  the  Kolynui  as  far  as  the  (Jreat  l{aram)ff  Ki)cks, 
through  a  distance  of  more  than  thirty-seven  decrees  of  h)nj«i. 
mae.  Jiut  Cape  Che-laj!;-skoi,  whither  Deshneff,  a  century 
previous  had  shown  the  way,  he  did  not  succeed  in  (h)ublinj?.  ' 
_  li(4ui'nin^'  m)w  to  the  movements  of  Berinj»-,  the  summer  of 
1740  found  him  in  command  of  a  respectable  fleet  of  eioht  or 
iiiue  vessels,  all  built  by  himself,  in  the  harbor  and  on  the  sea 
of  Okhotsk. 

Wei-hins  anclKu-  on  the  8th  of  September,  1740,  IJeriu^^ 
sailed  to  Avacha  Bay,  on  the  southeast  coast  of  Kamchatktr 
Here  a  foi-t  and  a  church  were  erected  in  the  course  of  the  win- 
ter, the  pious  Kerinj.'  consecratino-  the  house  of  worship  to  St 
I'cter  and  St.  Paul,  thus  foundin-  the  town  of  Petro-paul-ovsk. 
Finally,  from  this  port,  after  a  prayer  service,  the  shi])s 
:ij;ain  weij-hed  anchor  on  June  4th,  174L  Of  these,  BeTim- 
was  in  immediate  command  of  the  "St.  Peter,"  AvitJ;  sevent  v- 
seven  men.  Chirik(.ff  was  placed  in  char-e  of  the  "St.  Paul," 
with  seventy-six  men.  First  takin-  a  southeasterly  course  in 
search  for  the  erroneously-sui)i)ose(l  Gainaland,  the' vessels  be- 
•ame  separated  on  the  20th,  never  a-ain  to  meet. 

F(»r  the  next  four  weeks  th(>  "St.  Peter"  sailed  northeasterl  v. 


^uMA)}! 


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Photographic 
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23  WEST  MAN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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82 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


u 


Uoriiig's  health  was  shattered  and  he  was  confined  much  of  the 
time  to  his  bunk. 

At  length,  at  noon  on  the  ICth  of  July,  land  was  sighte<l. 
It  was  an  elevate<l,  jagged,  snow-covered  coast,  behind  which 
a  peak  towered  so  high  into  the  clouds  that  it  was  visible  at  a 
distance  of  seventy  miles.  It  was  the  great  St.  Elias,  which 
Bering  named  in  honor  of  the  patron  saint  of  the  day,  July 
20th,  on  which  anchor  was  cast  off  the  west  coast  of  an  island 
also  called  St.  Elias.  The  towering  peak  ever  stands  as  a 
monumental  witness  that  it  was  Bering,  who,  from  the  west 
and  traveling  to  the  east,  discovered  America. 

A  landing  was  made  upon  St.  Elias  Island— now  called 
Kyak— and  a  supply  of  fresh  water  obtained.  Here  were 
also  found  human  habitations,  food,  utensils,  etc.  In  place  of 
articles  brought  on  board,  Bering  caused  to  be  deposited  an 
iron  kettle,  tobacco,  a  Chinese  pipe,  and  a  piece  of  silk  cloth. 

Taking  thence  a  southwesterly  course  along  the  Alaskan 
Peninsula,  on  the  30th  of  August,  Shu-mag-in,  one  of  the  sail- 
ors, died  in  the  hands  of  his  mates,  who  were  taking  him 
ashore.  The  group  of  islands  Avhere  they  then  were  was 
named  in  his  honor. 

The  condition  of  all  on  board  was  most  deplorable.  Bering 
was  too  ill  to  stand.  Others  sick  were  carried  ashore.  The 
subordinate  officers,  Waxel  and  Khitroff,  quarreled  bitterly, 
and  nearly  involved  the  entire  expedition  in  ruin.  Steller,  the 
naturalist,  alone  remained  composed,  and,  gathering  anti-scor- 
butics, he  fed  them  to  the  scurvy-stricken  crew.  In  conse- 
quence, they  grew  better,  Bering's  health  also  greatly  i.nprov- 
ing. 

Sailing  again  on  September  fith,  adverse  winds  and  storms 
almost  constantly  checked  their  progress.  Half  the  crew  be- 
came sick  and  no  c(»oking  was  done  for  many  days.  Their 
only  food  was  burnt  ship  biscuits. 

On  the  (Ith  of  October  when  in  a  frightful  gale  of  hail  an<l 
snow,  Bering  exhorted  his  men  to  make  an  oflferinff  to  th(> 
church:  the  Russians,  to  the  church  at  Petropaulovsk;  the 
Lutherans,  to  the  church  in  Viborg,  Finland,  whrre  Bering 


OR,    LIFE    Ix\    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  83 

l.ad  formerly  resided.  Anions  the  men,  death  followed  death 
and  the  helmsmen  were  .so  feeble  as  scarcely  to  be  able  to  walk 
to  the  whee  when  conducted  there  by  other  sick  companions. 
At  length  on  November  f>,  1741,  the  vessel,  without  helms- 
man and  with  commander  at  death's  door  in  his  cabin,  strand- 
ed on  the  most  western  of  the  two  largest  of  the  Commander 
Islands  and  which  has  been  appropriately  called  in  Bcaino's 
lionor,  for  with  its  soil  are  mingled  the  ashes  of  the  illustrious 
<'xplorer. 

Shortly  before  the  stranding  of  the  "St.  Peter,"  twelve  of  the 
men  had  perished,  and  soon  thereafter  nine  more  died      Hor 
rible  starvation  stared  them  in  the  face. 

Haying  with  painful  difficulty  effected  a  landing,  those  who 
were  at  all  able  to  work  began  to  collect  drift-wood,  to  dUr  and 
to  roof  pits  in  which  to  live.  In  these  efforts,  Steller,  th^e  im- 
mortal (Jerman  naturalist,  was  the  very  soul  of  the  entire 
party.  For  the  sick  and  dying  he  was  both  cook  and  phvsician 
he  SICK  became  so  afflicted  with  scurvy  that  the  gumi,  like  a 
dark-brown  sponge,  slowly  protruded  and  covered  the  teeth 
of  the  victims;  while  the  dead  were  quickly  devoured  by  foxes 
before  they  could  be  buried. 

It  was  December  before  the  entire  party  were  (iuartere<l  for 
the  winter  in  the  miserable  dug-outs.  Bering  sought  in  everv 
way  to  inspire  his  companions  with  fresh  courage  and  to  place 
implicit  trust  in  Providence  for  the  future.  TTc  gave  thanks 
to  (xod  for  having  directed  his  course  from  youth,  and  for  hav- 
ing made  his  life  successful. 

Nevertheless,  his  sixty  years  of  age,  the  malignant  ague 
(ontracted  at  Okhotsk,  cold,  hunger,  scurvv,  and  grief  at  the 
tate  of  the  expedition,  bore  heavily  upon  the  brave  old  heart 
as  it  slowly  pined  away  in  the  cheerless  sand-pit. 

"Fie  was,  so  to  speak,  buried  alive.  Tiie  sand  kept  contin- 
nally  rolling  down  upon  him  from  the  sides  of  the  pit  and  cov- 
<'ml  his  feet.  At  first  Ihis  was  removed,  but  finallv  he  asked 
<liat  It  might  remain,  as  it  furnished  him  with  a  little  of  the 
^vnni.th  he  so  sorely  needed.  Soon  half  of  his  bodv  was  un- 
•lor  the  sand,  so  that  after  his  death,  his  comrades  had  to  ex- 


.i|f 


i!  1i 


84 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE   NORTH   POLE; 


He  died  on  the  8tli 


hiime  him  to  give  him  a  decent  burial." 
of  December,  1741. 

Says  Steller:  "Sad  as  his  death  was,  that  intrepidity  and 
seriousness  with  which  he  prepared  to  meet  death  was  most 
worthy  of  admiration."  And,  aoain,  Steller  writes:  "Bering 
was  a  true  and  honest  Christian,  noble,  kind,  and  unassuming 
in  conduct,  universally  loved  by  his  subordinates— high  as  well 
as  low.  Every  reasonable  person  must  admit  that  he  always 
sougbt  to  perform  the  work  entrusted  to  him  to  the  best  of  his 
ability,  although  he  himself  confessed  and  often  regretted  that 
his  strength  was  no  longer  sufficient  for  so  difficult  an  expedi- 
tion, lie  deplored  the  fact  that  the  plans  for  the  expedition 
had  been  made  on  a  much  larger  and  more  extensive  scale 
than  he  had  proposed." 

The  last  death  occurred  January  (5,  1742.  In  all,  thirty-one 
of  the  seventy-seven  men  had  died.  The  others  were  saved 
only  through  the  abundance  of  sea  and  land  life  in  which  the 
region  then  abounded. 

To  the  faithful  Steller,  theologian  and  naturalist,  is  human- 
ity obliged— not  only  for  his  persistent  efforts  in  drawing  upon 
this  life  for  his  helpless  comrades,  but  also  for  the  scholarly 
descriptions  of  it,  which  have  rendered  the  history  of  the  sec- 
ond expedition  immortal.  In  those  classic  pages  one  is  made 
to  pursue  with  wonder,  among  those  desolate  islcK,  the  thou- 
sands of  fur-seals,  sea-lions,  sea-otters,  and  eared  seals;  the 
hundreds  of  Arctic  foxes,  of  which  from  sixty  to  eighty  could 
be  struck  down  in  the  space  of  two  hours;  and  last,  and  prob- 
ably most  interesting,  the  now-extinct  sea  cow,  a  ponderous 
animal,  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  feet  in  length,  Aveighing 
about  three  tons,  and  which  fed  in  large  droves  upon  the  algae 
strewn  along  the  strand. 

A  quarter  of  a  century  later,  Russian  rapacity  had  utterly 
exterminated  this  valuable  animal. 

In  the  ensuing  summer,  the  surviving  members  of  the  ill- 
starred  expedition  effected  their  escape  to  Petropaulovsk  in  a 
boat,  made  from  the  timber  of  the  stranded  "St.  Peter."  There 
they  learned  of  the  return  of  the  "St.  Paul,"  under  Chirikoff, 


nil 


OR,   LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  85 

Who  hacl  succeeded  in  reaching  the  American  coast,  probably 
ahou  200  miles  soutlnvard  of  the  point  reached  by  U  .ri„.,  hu 
men  had  also  experienced  great  hardships,  and  twenty-^ne  of 
the  .d,ed.    Among  these  was  the  astronomer  La  OoyL 

Ihe  s«rv,yors  finally.  In  1745,  returne,!  to  St.  Petersbnr.. 
thn»  termmafng  the  (Jreat  Northern  Expedition,  a  pionee".: 
venture  for  knowledge,  science,  and  commerce 


FKANKI.IN  RELICS. 


86 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


CHAPTER  IV. 


•I 


ARCTIC  VOYAGES  OF  CAPTAIN  COOK,  THE  SCORESBYS, 
SIR  JOHN  ROSS,  AND  OTHERS. 

C(>nl('iiiiM)raneoiis  with  tlio  French  and  Indian  War,  the 
northwest   passage  was  again  sought  for.     In  the  spring  of 
1754,  Captain  (;harles  sSwaine,  leaving  Thihidelphia,  Pennsyl- 
vania, in  the  American  schooner  "Argo,"  in  vain  sought  the 
Avaters   of   Hudson's   Bay.     The   previous   winter   had    been 
an    unusually    severe    one,    and    other    vessels    bound    for 
the  northern  whale  fisheries  were  also  turned  back  on  ac- 
count of  the  ice.     SAvaine  then  directed  his  attention  to  a 
perfect  exploration  of  the  west  coast  of  Labrador  from  its 
northern  point,  latitude  about  (50°,  southward  to  latitude  54°. 
He  found  six  important  inlets,  but  not  a  passage  leading  Avest- 
Avard  to  Hudson's  Ray  as  he  had  anticipated.     He  also  col- 
lected information  concerning  the  soil,  produce,  and  people  of 
the  country,  and  noted  that  a  high  mountain  range,  one  hun- 
dred  fifty   miles  inland,  traversed   the  interior  from   north 
to  south.     On  one  of  the  inlets  he  found  a  deserted  Avooden 
house  Avith  a  brick  chimney.     Shortly  after-,     rds  he  met  Avith 
a  bark,  Captain  ^off,  from  London,  Avho  informed  him  that 
the  house  Avas  built  there  the  year  previous  by  some  Moravian 
missionaries  Avho  had  been  landed  there  from  the  vessel  Avliich 
he  Avas  then  commanding.     Rut  the  captain  and  six  of  his  men 
having  been  kidnapped  by  the  natives,  it  became  necessary, 
after  more  than  two  weeks'  delay  vainly  aA\'aiting  the  return 
of  the  men,  for  the  missionaries  to  return  Avith  the  remainder 
of  the  crew  in  order  to  work  the  vessel.    Ooff  was  then  seeking 
information  concerning  the  fate  of  the  men.    Swaine  also  di6- 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  87 

(oveml  an  excellent  fishing-bank,  extending  three  degreen 
s<M,thward  from  the  tiftyseventh  paralleland  about  twenty 
miles  oft  shore.  "-"^^J 

Concerning  this  expedition  the  following  extract  from  a 
bron:~:  "'  '''.'''''''''  ^"^  ''^^'^^'^  FranUinlwn 


.*!,,,,,.        ,     "I'l^iladelphia,  February  28, 1753. 

I  believe  I  have  not  before  told  you  that  I  have 
provided  a  subsc-riptiou  here  of  £1,500  to  fit 'out  a  vesseMu 
search  of  a  Northwest  passage.     She  sails  in  a  few  davs    „ 
IS  ca  led  the  "Argo,"  commanded  by  Mr.  Swaine,  wh    wa 
he  last   expedition    in .  the   "California,"  and   author   <,^ 
ourna  of  that  voyage  in  two  volumes,     {y,  think   h    ^tt    Lt 
audable,  whatever  may  be  the  success.     If  she  fails  Ci     i 
tamen  excidit  ausis.'     \Vith  great  esteem,  '      ^ 

"Mr.  Cadwalader  Colden,  N.  Y.»  "^^°^'-  ^^^°'^""-" 

Again,  in  1772,  notwithstanding  the  troublous  times  in  the 
American  CO  onies,  the  northwest  passage  was  looked  for  by 
(  aptain  Wilder,  commanding  the  brig  "Diligence."  The  pro- 
moters of  the  enterprise  were  a  company  of  private  gentlemen 
of  \  irginia.  The  brig,  after  scouring  the  northern  and  western 
shores  of  Hudson's  Bay,  was  driven  back  by  the  ice,  and  after 
ascending  Davis'  Strait  to  latitude  09°  11'  returned  to  Virginia 

A  gallant  young  quartermaster  of  the  Hudson  Bav  Com- 
pany at  Fort  Churchill,  having  explored  the  northern  porti<»n 
ot  lludson  Bay  and  made  valuable  improvements  of  the  tish- 
ones  in  the  same  region,  was  thereupon  despatched,  in  Novem- 
ber li(59,  to  search  for  (he  reputed  copper  mines  and  tlu^ 
northwest  passage.  Rich  specimens  of  the  copper  ore  had 
l>^'(Mi  brought  to  Fort  Churchill  by  some  of  the  Indian  traders 
ami  therefore  this  young  officer,  Ilearne  by  name,  with  two 
white  companions  and  some  of  the  Indians  set  out  upon 
tlie  journey  with  great  expectations.  ITe  had  not  pro- 
ceeded more  than  two  hundred  miles  when  supplies  began 


C^'^fHI 

;'j9 

' '^1^ 

88 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


to  fail  and  Iho  lixliaii  assistants  to  leave  him.  Returuiuf^  to 
tlie  fort  he  again  started  on  his  journey  in  February,  1770, 
with  five  Indians  alone.  At  the  end  of  tive  hundred  miles 
they  be<;an  to  suffer  great  privations.  Ilearne  writes:  "It 
was  cither  "all  feastin--  or  all  famine.  *  •  ♦  We  have 
fasted,  many  times,  two  whole  days  and  nights;  twice,  upward 
of  three  days,  and  once,  near  seven  days,  during  which  we 
tasted  not  a  mouthful  of  anything  except  a  few  cranberries, 
water,  scrai)s  of  old  leather,  and  burnt  bones." 

Finally  arriving  in  latitude  (53°  10',  and  about  eleven  de- 
grees west  of  Fort  (Miurchill,  he  jiroposed  to  winter  among  a 
friendly  tribe  of  Indians.  Unfortunately  breaking  his  quad- 
rant and  notwithstanding  the  terrible  sufferings  already  un- 
dergone, he  retraced  his  Aveary  course  to  the  fort,  refitted,  and 
once  more  set  out  on  the  7th  of  December.  Arriving  on  the 
banks  of  one  of  the  Oreat  Slave  Lake  series,  he  constructed 
a  ijinoe  and  descended  what  is  now  known  as  the  Coppermine 
Kiver  to  its  outlet,  Coronaticm  (Julf,  into  the  Arctic  Ocean, 
latitude  ()8°  30'.  "The  Ocean,"  Ilearne  says,  "was  full  of  islands 
and  shoals  as  far  as  I  could  observe  Avith  a  good  telescope." 

A  sad  scene  in  connection  with  this  brilliant  journey  was 
the 

TORTURE    AND    MAS.SACRE 


of  about  twenty  unsuspecting  Eskimos  by  his  Indian  allies, 
and  for  whom  the  Indians  of  those  regions  cherish  an  invet- 
erate hatred.  Says  Ilearne:  "Finding  all  the  Esquimaux 
quiet  in  their  tents,  they  rushed  forth  from  their  ambuscade 
and  fell  on  the  poor  unsusjjecting  creatures,  uuperceived  till 
close  to  the  eaves  of  their  tents,  when  they  soon  began  the 
bloody  massacre,  while  I  stood  neuter  in  the  rear."  Ilearne 
was  even  unable  to  save  the  life  of  a  young  girl  who  had  tied 
to  him  for  i)rotection,  wiiile  an  old  w<mmn  was  painfully  mu- 
tilatwl  by  having  her  eyes  plucked  out  before  she  was  killed. 

riearne  was  absent  on  this  trip  almost  a  year  and  seven 
months,  arriving  at  Fort  Churchill  June  30, 1772.  Three  years 
later  he  was  made  Governor  of  the  place. 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  gf) 

Among  the  notewc,rtli;y  discoveries  made  by  Tlearue  was 
HI  onnation,  obtained  from  the  Eskimos  of  Marble  Lshind^h 
1 1<>!),  roncci-ninj;;  the  ' 

FATE   OP    THE   OLD    GOVERNOR, 

Jamos  Knight    whos,.  expcditiou  «c  have  previously  „■«„. 

IKU  e,      Fr„,„  Ileatue's  a.e,„mt  we  glean  the  f„ll„wing: 

n\hen  the  vessels  arrived  at  this  place  it  was  verv  ];U. 
a  the  fall  („,  ,71i„,  an.l  i„  getting  th,™  into  the  haZth 
aiges    rece,ve,l  m,„.|,  ,lan,ag,.;    bnt  „n  being  fairly  in     h  . 

Ivnghsh  began  t„  build  a  hons...  their  nnnib^r  at  t  ,at  ti  „e 

seenung  to  be  about  fifty.    As  soon  as  the  i,..  pern,ittel.  in   1  . 

•it  b:''.r,;T "  h"*'  *""  >=»"'»— 1>-"  the™  a„oth, . 

>.s.t,  by  wh  eh  time  the  nnn.ber  of  the  Knglish  was  greatlv 
redueed,  and  hose  that  were  living  see„,e,l  very  nnh™  1  v 
A,,.ord,ng  to  the  aeeount  given  by  the  Esquin.aux  th,.v  we^ 
very  bus.ly  employed,  but  about  what  thev  ,.ould  not  easi  v 
..■svnhe;  probably  in  lengthening  the  long  boat,  for  a  a  'e 
distance  fmm  the  house  there  was  now  (17(irt)  Iving  a  great 
Muant.ty  of  oak  <hips,  which  most  assure,llv  1  a,"!  been  mTde 
l>y  carpenters."    The  account  goes  on  t„  r,.late  that 

SICKNESS    AND    FAMINE 

made  such  havoc  among  th,.  Knglish  that  by  the  summer  of 
1,21  but  five  r,.niai,.ed  alive.  .M,.anwhile,  the  Eskimos  had 
supidied  them,  as  they  were  able,  with  seal  meat  and  whale's 
blubber.  Finally,  of  the  five  who  remaine,!  alive,  three  ate 
so  ravenously  of  raw  whale's  blubber  after  a  pr.dongcl  fast 

Hiey  died.    The  other  two  lived  a  long  , ar„.r  this  and 

frequently  as,.en,Ied  a  high  rock  and  looked  long  ami  oaruestiv 
southward  and  ea.stwar,l  as  if  expecting  the  arrival  of  a  ship 
ihey  would  then  sit  down  together  and  wee,,  bitterlv' 
At  length  one  of  the  two  did  and  his  companion,  in  ilb-o-in',; 
a  grave  for  him,  fell  down  e.xhanst,.,!  and  .lied  also.  The  siruirs 
and  othfr  bones  of  these  two  men  were  then  (ITfii))  Iving  above 
ground,  close  to  the  house.  «  i"oic 


90 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


Ihe  luHt  lo  (!i(.  wiis,  jKconiino'  („  iiic  JOskirnos,  always 
workiug  iron  i„to  impleiueutH  lor  tluMii.  Ho  wan  probably 
the  armorer,  or  smith. 

Lvlnjr  j„st  beneath  the  Arctic  Circle  in  the  territory  con- 
tiguous to  the  northwestern  portion  of  Hudson's  liav,  is  a 
river-like  iudentatiim.  Willi  its  discovery,  in  1742,  by  Cap- 
tain Middleton,  the  problem  of  the  northwest  passaj-e  was 
<h)ublless  supposed  to  be  settliMl.  Its  termination  in  an 
unpopulated  district  was  soon  determined,  however,  and  al- 
though but  a  bay  opening  into  Roe's  Welcome,  as  1  he  channel 
separating  Southampton  Island  from  the  mainland  is  called 
it  bears  the  name  of  Wager  Iliver.  ' 

Four  years  later,  Messrs.  Moore  and  Smith,  having  also  in- 
.  dulged  in  a  "search"  for  the  northwest  passage,  pronounced 
it  "as  chimerical  as  one  of  Don  (Quixote's  projects." 

In  June,  1778,  Captain  C.  J.  Phipps,  known  later  as  Lord 
Mulgrave,  with  instructions  to  proceed  to.  the  North  Pole 
or  as  near  to  it  as  possible,  on  a  meridian,  found  himself  bound 
for  Spitzbergen,  where  he  arrived  July  4th.  Five  days  later 
he  had  attained  80°  3fi',  but  on  the  31st  was  stopped  by  the 
iee.  By  August  Gth  he  had  retreated  to  the  Seven  Islands,  off 
the  northwest  coast  of  Spitzbergen,  whence  he  returned  to 
England  in  the  following  m(mth. 

What  schoolboy  has  not  read  of  Captain  ,7!)hn  Cook  and 
his  tragic  death  while  endeavoring  to  circumnavigate  the 
globe?  But  how  few,  even  among  the  best  informe(rpersons 
of  mature  years,  are  acquainted  with  the  fact  that  it  Avas  the 
object  of  the  great  navigator  to  perform  that  voyage  bv  wav 
of  the  northwest  passage? 

With  explicit  instructions  to  sail  immediately  to  latitude 
05°  in  the  North  Pacific,  which  would  bring  him  well  into 
Bering  Strait,  he  was  to  endeavor  to  complete  the  circuit 
through  some  channel  leading  eastward  from  the  Arctic  to  the 
Atlantic  Ocean. 

Finely  equipped,  he  sailed  from  Plymouth  in  July,  177(1, 
and,  a  few  weeks  later,  was  joined  at  the  Cape  of  Good  llope  by 
Captain  Clerke.     December  12th  he  passed  Prince  Edward's 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  91 

Island,  arriving  at  Kergiu.lou  i.and  twelve  days  later  Ilav 
inj.  (letern.ined  this  to  be  an  inland  and  not  1,  continent,  an 
I';h.  been  supposed  by  Kerguelen,  he  renamed  il  (he  Island 
of  I  esolal.on.  Vvom  (his  point  the  vessels  continn.Ml  east- 
ward 

THROUGH  NINE  HUNDRED  MILES  OF  DENSE  FOG, 
and  separalion  was  avoided  only  throngh  the  incessant  souud- 
n.j.  ot  s.onals.  .January  L>(i,  1777,  fonnd  them  in  Tasn.ania, 
Ihen  called  \  an  D.en.an's  Land,  and  on  IVbrnarv  12,  in  New 
/.■aland.  March  2<)(h  they  were  among  the  Cook  Islands  The 
season  was  now  so  far  advance<l  that  Captain  Cook  now 
decided  not  to  hasten  farther  north  that  vear,  and  accord- 
ingly spent  three  months  among  the  peacefnl  inhabitants  of 
the  Feejee  and  neighboring  islands.  The  groups  he  collective- 
ly denominated  the  Friendly  Islands. 

On  August  12(h  he  arrivJd  among  the  Society  Islands,  Iviu- 
about  two  degrees  north  of  (he  Tropic  of  Capricorn,   from 
which  group  he  voyaged  almost  due  north,  until,  at  a  point 
( wo  degr(>es  south  of  the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  on  Januarv  IS  1 77S 
he  discovered  the  c       >         , 

WORLD-RENOWNED    HAWAIIAN    ARCHIPELAGO. 

These,  in  honor  of  John  Montague,  Earl  of  'Jandwich  the 
chief  promoter  of  the  expedition,  he  named  the  Sandwich 
Islands. 

Sailing  thence  he  arrived,  March  7th,  off  the  coast  of  the 
New  Albion  of  Drake,  in  latitude  44°  .33',  a  point  on  the  coast 
of  Oregon,  nearly  oi)p()site  Salem,  t  he  capital  of  the  State  On 
Van  Couver's  Island,  latitude  49°  3.7,  he  found  the  inhabitants 
clad  m  furs.  Th,-y  were  fric^ndly,  and  shrewd  in  barter  were 
acquainted  with  mm,  but  (^steemed  bra-s  more  Iro-hiy  .^^1 
readily  exchanged  furs  for  the  brass  buttons  on  the  nien's 
garments. 

Ten  degrees  farther  north  Cook  found  the  inhabitants  to 
resemble,  both  ,n  language  an<l  physical  appearance,  the  Es- 
kimos of  riudson  Bay. 

A  narrow  bay,  now  known  as  Cook  Inlet,  was  <liscovered, 


I'll 


"W- 


92 


THE   SEARCH    FOR   THE   NORTH   POLE; 


un.l  snppofiod  (o  lead  to  tlio  "Northern"  (Arctic)  Groan,  but 
upon  oxpl(.ialio!i,  was  fonixl  to  ((.i-niinatc  about  two  humlrod' 
miles  wiliiiu  I  lie  interior. 

AuiiUHi  V.HU  Cook  arrived  at  and  named  the  northwestern- 
most  point  in  America,  (V.pe  I'rince  of  Wales,  and  measured 
the  distance  thence  to  the  northeasternnuKst  point  in  Asia, 
Cape  East.  This  distance  he  ascertained  to  be  thirty-nine 
Jfoo-raphical  miles,  or  somewhat  more  than  forty-three  statute 
miles. 

JJo  landed,  but  did  not  lon«>'  remain  anionj;  the  Chook-cheos. 

Procei'dlno-  northward,  he  reached  latitude  Kf  44',  where 
he  was  stopped  at  the  edj-e  of  the  imp(>netrable  and  expansive 
ice  field,  forty  feet  in  thickn«vss,  and  covered  with 

A    BLACK    MASS    OF    WALRUSES 

as  far  as  t  he  eye  could  reach. 

Captain  Cook  then  returned  to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  ar- 
riving at  Hawaii  X<Hvml)er  30rh.  Seven  weeks  now  followed 
in  circumnavi}.atiiio  and  surveyinj.-  this  island,  after  which  the 
vessels  came  to  anchor  and  werc^  visited  by  large  crowds  of 
natives.  Dunn-  th<'  more  than  six  m<mths  which  the  En"lish 
spent  here  increasinoly  friendly  r(dati(ms  existed  between  the 
men  of  the  exi)edition  and  the  islanders,  (\aptain  Cook  con- 
gratulahMl  hims(«lf  that  tho  failure  to  penetrate  within  the 
Arctic  Ocean  had  nevertludess  given  him  an  opportunity  of 
becoming  fully  acquainted  with  the«e,  the  most  important 
islands  of  the  Mid-Pacific.  I  'H'uc 

^  An  additional  supply  of  fresh  provisions  having  been  laid 
in,  on  the  4th  of  Hepten.ber  the  vessels  weighed  athor  for  a 
survey  of  the  entire  group.     TTufortunatelv  a  storm  arose  and 

incidents  now  occurred  which  led  to  the 

HORRIBLE  DEATH  OF  CAPTAIN  COOK. 

A  piir  of  tongs  having  been  stolen  from  the  smith's  forge,  a 
pait..   of  men  were  sent  to  recover  the  stolen  property,  but 


OR.    ^  IFB    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  93 

.-..•0  roughly  lun..lh.I  Uy  a  uiob  of  the  nativ.H.     Soon  one  of 
I  Im'  ship's  boatH  was  Htolen.  ^ 

Took  now  took  To-roe-o-boo  Hu.  k's,....  .    • 

"-  .^"- '"-  •-' • ""■>  "'r,; ';:.,  r: ;.  nrrirort: 

nMs.ni^  piop  it>.     Jh,.  knij.,  arconipanicd  by  his  two  sohh 

PRECIPITATED   A    CONFLICT 

fuptain  rm,k  l,i„i.s,.If  «,,„!  n  ,„    '  ".7       "^    ""  *  '  *'"'  ""'agos. 

whi.-h  only  servo,]  t,,  .•.,',  1  1         ■'"''''  ""'  """"'  ^""*' 
J    ^ivm  lo  i(  n„(.i  his  assaihintN  nioiv  fnriop^      tjw. 

t-rew  and  nmrinos  now  fiml  noon  fiw.  ...  i  ^'"'»i-«-     Hie 

other  on  so  elo.sely  to  the  me    t,'  '''"  ''''''''''^  '''''' 
H.    *  •,  *         -^  *  '"^"  i"^it  hrearnis  Were  useh^^s      T« 

llH'  turnnnl  four  of  the  Englinh  .vere  killed 

;Tust  as  Captain  Cook  was  endeavorino-  to  reach  the  boat  n 
iiadve  was  seen  in  dni]  i.;..        i  .  T       ^*^'i*-u  me  boat  a 

-Ob..  St,.,,,.,  down  f„..  the  thin,  .ru.,  ,2  I' f.e     t  I,:;  I 

„u.n.    1,  ,        ^^^^   ^^^   'TO   COMMAND 

">t'n,  he  cared  for  them  and  oliHtH  their  e^tonm       i 

7  "" '  '"^'^  ebteem  and  couli- 


(..   si 


94 


THE   SEARCH    FOR   THE   NORTH    POLE; 


tlence.  His  unselfishness  secured  in  return  the  generous  love 
of  those  whom  he  conunanded. 

Leaving  Hawrii,  Ca])tain  Tlerke  passed  northward  through 
Bering  Strait  to  latitude  70°  33',  where  ice  was  encountered 
twenty  miles  lower  down  than  on  the  year  previous.  Coast- 
ing southward  along  Kamchatka,  Captain  Clerke  died  and 
was  buried  on  shore. 

Captain  Cfore  then  assumed  command  and  sailed  to  Canton, 
China,  where  the  furs  obtained  from  the  Eskimos  on  the  north- 
west coast  of  America  two  years  before,  were  sold  at  great 
profit,  some  |10,000  being  realized.  This  was  tlie  beginning  of 
the  fur  trade  of  the  Pacific.  Captain  (lore  then  sailed  to  Eng- 
land, arriving  there  October,  1780,  after  an  absence  of  over 
four  ye;  rs. 

Step  by  step,  that  is,  lake  by  lake  and  stream  by  stream, 
was  the  vast  territory  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  explored 
by  various  trappers  and  traders.  One  (;f  these,  Alexander 
Mackeiizie,  setting  out  from  Lake  Athabaska  in  June,  1789, 
with  .1  party  of  Canadians  and  Indians 

DISCOVERED    THE    MACKENZIE    RIVER 

and  followed  it  to  its  outlet  into  the  Arctic  Ocean,  latihide 
(>8°  50'.  I 'rom  having  seen  several  whales  sporting  on  the  ice 
they  named  the  island  on  wldch  they  were  encamped  Whale 
Lsland. 

When,  on  July  3,  1721,  with  forty  Danish  families,  Hans 
Egede,  a  zealous  missionary,  arrived  off  the  west  coast  of 
Greenland  and  established  the  settlement  of  Godthaab,  in 
latitude  04°,  the 

DANISH    POSSESSION    OF    GREENLAND 

may  be  said  to  have  begun.  Notwithstanding  Egede  had  spent 
his  entire  fortune  and  King  Ferdinand  TV.  had  assisted  him 
with  an  annual  contribution  of  .f200  and  the  missionary  board 
with  .|300  more,  in  his  efforts  to  propagate  the 

GOSPEL   AMONG   THE    ESKIMOS, 

the  Government,  shortly  after  the  death  of  Ferdinand,  in  1730, 


aeroiis  love 

rd  through 
ucountered 
us.  Coast- 
?  died  and 

to  Canton, 
I  the  north- 
d  at  great 
^ginning  of 
led  to  Eug- 
ice  of  over 

by  stream, 
y  explored 
Alex.ander 
rune,  1789, 


n,  latitude 

on  the  ice 

ped  Whale 

[lies,  Hans 
it  coast  of 
dthaab,  in 


'  had  spent 
sisted  him 
aary  board 


id,  in  17.30, 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  95 

took  measures  to  break  up  tho  financially  unprofitable  colony, 
n  1.33  however,  largely  through  the  efforts  of  the  renowned 
(  ount  Zinzendorf,  founder  of  the  religions  comn.unity  known 
as  the  Moravians,  King  (Miristian  VI.  was  led  to  take  a  re- 
newed  interest  ,n  the  colony  and  among  other  good  dee<rs 
he  ga^-e  to  it  an  annuity  of  |2,000,  entrusting  its  proper  d  I 
posal  to  three  of  the  Moravian  brethren.  TUe  noble  Egei> 
returned  to  Denmark  in  1735,  where  he  died  in  1758,  agel 
seventy-two.  During  his  sojourn  in  Greenland  he  had  found 
the  rums  of  hous(^s  and  churches,  bespeaking  the  earlier  pres- 
-u'e  of  the  Norsemen,  but  he  was  unable  to  find  amo^g  tte 
Lsknnos  even  a  tradition  of  their  former  occupancy  J  the 

raptain  Loewenorn,  who  visited  the  east  coast  of  Greenland 
in  !<««),  was  1  ot  more  successful. 

THIRTY    ARCTIC    VOYAGES 

wouhl  seem  quite  enough  for  one  man  to  make,  but  for  the 
san.e  man  to  have  a  son  of  precisely  the  same  name  to  con- 
tinue the  same  perilous  work  in  generally  the  same  region 
without  startling  accident  to  either,  is  quit(^  "startliuL^'  in 
1  self.  It  certainly  bespeaks  not  only  good  seamanship  but 
also  good  luck.     Such  is  the  history  of 

CAPTAINS    WILLIAM   SCORESBY, 

Senior  and  .lunior.  The  elder,  at  the  age  of  thirty-one,  made 
his  hrs  voyage  to  Greenland  in  1791.  I„  JSOO  h,  umdeTn 
"( Jm>nland  Sea,"  latitude  81°  12',  while  still  stretching  into  tl  e 
unknown  north  >vas  "a  great  <.penness,  ov  .sea  o?  water" 
1  Ins  was  he  "farthest  m»rth"  yet  made  at  that  time,  and  bv  im- 
proving the  .,pportunity  of  pushing  on  through  the  great""sea 
0  water, '  lu^  „dght  have  become  known  as  the  discoverer  of 
the  North  Pole.  Being  on  a  whaling-voyage  merelv  he  did 
not  feel  a  liberty  to  do  so.  I„  1817  he  touched  upon^he  east 
n.ast  of  Greenland,  above  70°,  but  did  not  kind,  althouoh  it 
was  easy  to  have  done  so.  On  one  of  his  later  voyages,  how- 
ever, he  went  ashore,  and  Scoresby  Sound  printed  upon  all 


ff 


96 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE   NORTH   POLE; 


charts  is  iu  honor  of  the  event.  He  was  a  very  successful 
whaling-master.  On  one  voyage  alone  he  is  said  to  have  ob- 
tained thirty-six  whales.  He  died  in  1829,  at  the  age  of  sixty- 
nine. 

WILi^IAM    SCORESBY,    JR., 

beginning  a  seafaring  life  at  the  age  of  ten  under  the  ex- 
perienced eye  of  his  father,  was  in  command  of  a  whaler— 
the  "Resolution"— just  before  attaining  his  majority.  Wlu  n 
off  8pitzbergen  on  one  occasion,  near  Cape  Mitre,  he  made 
the  perilous  ascent  of  a  mountain  overlooking  the  sea  at  the 
giddy  height  of  3,000  feet.  When  near  the  summit,  the  ridge 
was  so  narrow  and  the  sides  so  precipitous  that  he  was 

OBLIGED    TO    STRADDLE    THE    MOUNTAIN, 

as  it  were,  and  advance  by  working  his  hands  and  legs. 

On  the  east  coast,  he  came  upon  large  quantities  of  skulls 
and  bones  of  foxes,  seals,  walruses,  norwhales,  and  whales; 
also  two  Russian  lodges,  then  recently  inhabited,  and  the 
ruins  of  an  older  one.  In  the  vast  accumulation  of  rock 
debris  at  the  base  of  the  cliffs,  the  sea-birds,  in  great  numbers 
had  built  their  nests.  A  species  of  given  fly  was  seen! 
Shrimps  and  medusae  were  abundant  in  the  water  alon-  the 
coast.  He  also  found  two  species  of  one  of  the  sub-orde'rs  of 
sea- weeds.     From  a 

DEAD   Vi^HALE    STRANDED 

on  the  coast  he  obtained  |2,000  worth  of  oil  and  blubber,  not- 
withstanding its  decayed  condition.  In  its  bodv  was  an  har- 
poon which  Scoresby  judged  to  have  been  driven  into  the 
huge  creature  by  the  fishermen  at  the  mouth  of  the  Elbe  Es- 
caping, It  had  made  its  way  through  more  than  l,50n  miles  of 
water  before  dying. 

In  1822,  Scoresby  made  his  eighteenth,  last,  and  most  im- 

north  of  the  region  explored  by  his  father.     The  name  of 

SCORESBY'S    LAND 

commemorates  his  geographical  services  in  that  region,  while 


,  ,  fl.)  Wost  Oi.tl..( 
Isliiiiil.  (2.1  K.-^kiino 
J«-l(Mi-lik,  IH'ii  Lvon, 
lik.l«;{- Lyon,    (ti.) 


A.iK  k.i-liu  .111(1  Hl^^V^te,0()m.na-Ly()Il.     (Soo  Chapter  Vlll.) 


I       '      '- 

i  d  ii 


ft: 


w 

! 

iri 

1 

i- ■■    :' 

i*i£ 

Hut 


(1.)     KskiiiiDs  BuildiiiKHii  1k-1<i(),  or  8ni)v 
iK-loj.-lik.  I«:ij»    Lyon.     Ci  )     '•Hccla"  and  ••K,..,     .^.,^,..i  ..  .o.., 
injf  llirimKli  \()mi«Icp-  Hopimor.     (5.i    Soutlica^t  Kml  of  SoutI 


yon.     (2.)    ("hildron  Dane 


nry"  Anun^it  1.  iHil  -Hcail 


in^ 


(4.)     Sail- 


Leopold's  Islands- Head,     (ti.)    HcaviuK  Down  tl 
(See  Chapter  X.J 


lei'iiniost  of  Prill 
•iiry,"  AuKUst    IN   1n2,5— Ui-ad. 


OR,    UFIO   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


97 


WM,  SCORESBY,  JR 


FERDINAND  VON  WHANGELl.. 
EARLY  ARCTIC  EXPLORERS. 


list 


h'' 


If 


:/(iislJf'-^' 


98 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


Roscoe  Mountains,  and  Capes  Lister,  Swainson  and  Tlope,  in 
lionor  of  Koscoe,  poet,  iiistoriau,  law-j^iver  and  baulcer;  Listi'i*, 
optician  and  merchant;  Swaiuwon,  celebrated  naturalist;  and 
Hope,  distinguished  writer — names  all  bestowed  upon  locali- 
ties discovered  by  himself,  indicate  the  character  of  his  home 
associates  and  the  trend  of  his  own  mind.  At  each  of  these 
places  he  was  able  to  see  and  describe  much:  mountains,  ma- 
jestic and  grand,  3,000  feet  high;  a  rich  Arctic  flora;  recently- 
abandoned  Eskimo  huts  with  a«hes  and  charred  driftwood 
still  upon  the  hearth,  while  liocks  of  the  now-extinct  (?)  great 
auk  and  other  sea-fowls,  and 

SWARMS    OF    MOSQUITOES,    BUTTERFLIES,    BEES, 

and  other  insects,  and  bones  of  hare,  reindeer  and  dog,  all 
bore  testimony  to  the  abundance  of  life  beyond  the  seventy- 
first  degree  of  north  latitude. 

Scoresby  also  visited  and  studied  the  mist-enveloped  Jan 
Mayen,  with  its  seven  great  glaciers  sweeping  irresistibly 
down  its  sides  to  the  water's  edge,  its  volcano,  and  its  Mouut 
Beerenberg,  more  than  a  mile  high,  standing  guard  over  its 
solitary  isle  as  if  Avarding  it  against  the  ceaseless  attack  of 
devouring  ice.     Keturning  to  England,  Scoresby 

BECAME    A    CLERGYMAN 


and  was  made  a  doctor  of  divinity  in  1S30.  His  interest  in 
science  led  him  to  make  valuable  contributions  concerniuu 
the  hydrography,  meteorology,  and  natural  sciences  of  the 
Arctic  regions.  In  the  investigation  of  the  application  of  ter- 
restrial magnetism  to  navigation  he 

VISITED    THE    UNITED    STATES 

in  1847,  and  Australia  in  18,>i.  He  was  always  a  warm  (>x- 
])oneut  of  Arctic  research  and  iiiainl allied  that  a  voyage  to 
the  North  Pole  did  not  necessarily  involve  either  great  danger 
or  difficulty.  Every  expedition,  he  urged,  should  go  abundant- 
ly equipped,  and  be  provided  with  sledges  and  boats  to  be 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  99 

able  to  ovorcoino  the  dittK-ulty  of  travermug  the  alternation 
of  holds  (.t  m-  and  lanes,  or  "soas,"  of  water.  Uis  death  oe- 
tarred  in  England,  in  1857. 

THE   NINETEENTH    CENTURY 

opened  with  great  interest  in  Arctic  matters.  The  En-lish 
niiiiistiw,  encouraged  by  the  success  of  the  «coresbvs,  early 
resolved  upon  two  geographical  and  scieutitic  V(»vages'  These 
conip.Ksed  (,f  two  vessels  each,  were  htted  out^n  iSlS  ThJ 
liisl,  under  command  of  Captain  David  Buchan,  was  to  search 
lor  a  northeast  i)assage. 

After  sailing  dne  north  to  Wpitzbergen,  thence  east  along 
its  north  shore,  both  vessels,  the  "Dorothea"  and  "Trent  "  were 
caught  in  a  terrible  storm  on  July  30th,  off  the  northwest  coast 
The  "Dorothea"  was  so  greatly  damaged  by  the  ice  that  the 
hope  of  reaching  Bering  Strait  was  abandoned  and  Bnchan 
returned  to  r:ngland  with  both  vessels.  Lientenant,  after-  . 
wards  Sir  John  Fianklin,  was  in  command  of  the  "Trent." 

The  second  expedition,  consisting  of  the  "Isabella"  and  the 
"Alexandria,"  nndei-  command  of  (Viptain  John  Boss,  were  in- 
structed to  sail  direct  to  Baffin's  Bay,  and  then,  if  possible, 
to  penetrate  the  ice  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  to  Bering  Strait 
Thus  would  the  northwest  passage  be  made  to  connect  with 
<Iie  northeast  route  and  the  earth  be  circnmnavigated,  as  it* 
were,  in  Arctic  ice. 

Having  passed  TTpernavik,  in  latitude  72=  40',  the  northern- 
most Danish  settlement,  on  the  west  coast  of  (heen'land  as 
indeed  the  northernmost  permanent  white  settlement  in 'the 
Avorld,  (^aptain  Boss  made  a  more  accurate  survey  of 
tlH'  coast  embracing  Melville  Bay,  than  had  previouslv  been 
nuide.  ^\  hen  about  200  miles  farther  on,  in  latitude  75°  54' 
and  on  the  northern  shore  of  Melville  Bay,  he  ' 

DISCOVERED  THE  NORTHERNMOST  PEOPLE  IN  THE  WORLD. 

the  descendants  of  whom-children,  grandchildren  and  oreat- 
Jiiandchildren— now  comprise  the  famous  Etah  EskinTos  of 


'.'  ■ 


imn 


100 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


i 


Kane  .and  Hayes,  and  whom  the  writer  of  these  pages  came 
to  know  jx'i'sonally  and  b.v  name  while  in  their  midst  as  a  mem- 
ber of  the  Peary  Expedition  to  North  (U'eenlaud  in  18934,  bnt 
eon(rerninf»-  whom  acconnts  following  will  be  given. 

When  first  seen,  this  strange  tribe  became  greatly  alarnu'd 
at  sight  of  the  vessels  and  the  English.  For,  althongh  bnt  a 
short  distance  fiH)m  the  Danish  settlements,  they  had  never 
before  seen  or  heard  of  other  people  than  themselves  and  su])- 
posed  that  they  were  the  only  inhabitants  of  the  earth.  Know- 
ing nothing  of  wood,  nor  of  the  art  of  constructing  canoes,  they 
sni)po;ied  both  the  ships  and  the  people  upon  them  to  be 
supernatural  beings,  and, 

ADDRESSING    THE    VESSELS    AS    THOUGH    ALIVE, 

inquired:  "Who  are  you?  and  whence  come  you,  from  the  sun 
(shuck-ah-nah),  or  from  the  moon  (ah-ning-ah-nah)?" 

Although  these  people  knew  nothing  of  wood,  the}'  em- 
ployed iron  in  the  manufacture  of  rude  knives.  The  metal, 
they  explained  to  Itoss,  was  obtained  from  a  mountain  of  the 
Melville  Bay  coast,  and  was  secured  by  chipping  or  breaking 
off  portions  of  a  large  slab  or  block.  This  is  supposed  to  be 
of  meteoric  origin — a  supposition  quite  probable  since,  as  is 
well  known  to  all  meteorologists,  bodies  of  such  source  fre- 
quently contain  ninety-six  per  cent  of  iron  in  their  composi- 
tion. While  at  Anniversary  Lodge  the  writer  frequently  dis- 
cussed the  location  of  the  stone  discovered  bv  Ross,  the  na- 
tives  cheerfully  conveying  all  desired  infonnation  concern- 
ing it  and  holding  tlnnnselves  ready  to  point  it  out  upon  re- 
<iuest.  We  desired  greatly  to  visit  the  locality,  but  the  privi- 
lege was  not  accorded.  Mr.  Peary  himself,  however,  made  the 
coveted  pilgrimage  with  another  companion,  and,  with  the 
assistance  of  the  natives,  saw  the  precious  stone.  Koss  also 
noted  the  curious 

CRIMSON-COLORED   SNOW 

covering  the  cliffs  of  the  northern  shore  of  Melville  Bay  and 
carried  samples  of  it  to  England,  which,  upon  careful  and  oft- 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  loi 

repeated  tests  was  found  to  be  ordinary  snow  filled  witii  a  vast 
u-Ki'^'Sation  of  a  peculiar  red-eolored  fungus  urowth 

Wliatever  little  Koss  may  have  done  in  the  way  of  exnlor- 
iuj?  the  shores  of  Melville  Bay-the  "Hell  Gate"  of  Aretie  navl 
,at.on  H.  the  Baffin's  Hay  region-it  renuuned  for  Mr.  Astrup, 
<.H  hrist.ama  Norway,  our  talented  youno  .ou.rade  and  conV 
pauiou  of  the  Peary  Expedition  of  181)3-4,  to  survey  and  chart 
(oinpletely,  with  the  assistance  of  a  sinolo  native,  Kool-e-tinu- 
u-ah,  who,  although  employed  as  dou-driver  and  hunter  was 
nevertheless  treated  as  a  companion  and  friend 

Leaving  Melville  Bay,  lioss  sailed  past  Wostenholm,  Whale 
and  .Smith  sounds,  on  the  west  and  north  sides  of  Baffin's 
Bay  giving  them  scarcely  a  "passing  notice,"  and  then,  south- 
ward,  along  the  unobstructc^l  west  side  of  the  bay,  to  Lan- 
caster Sound.  This  <.hann(d,  tifty  miles  in  width  at  its  out- 
let, he  ascended  for  about  thirty  miles,  when,  to  the 

ASTONISHMENT    AND    DISAPPOINTMENT 

of  Officers  and  men,  he  turned  back,  although  the  wav  before 
Inn.  was  clear  for  about  twenty-five  miles.  Bevond'  this  a 
langv  <,f  mountains  seemed  to  terminate  the  sound— an  ap- 
pearance caused  by  atmospheric  refraction  and  which  prob- 
ably led  Ross  to  the  erroneous  conclusion.  He  then  sailed 
farther  southward  along  the  coast  without  giving  it  attention 
and  entered  Cumberland  Sound,  where  he  exhibited  the  same 
censurable  indifference.     He  then  returned  to  England. 

His  failure  lay  in  not  taking  advantage  of  the  opportunities 
afforded  by  an  unusually  mild  season. 


KNIPE  WmCH  HAD  BBEN  USED  IK  SKULL-SCRAPINQ. 


102 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


CHAPTER    V. 

PARRY'S    FIRST   VOYAGE. 

Born  in  1700,  tlio  samo  yonr  that  j»avo  to  the  worhl  tho 
I       '  jiniior  Scoresby,  ami  in  coniniand  of  a  vessel  at  about  the  same 

age,  self-educated,  and  master  of  the  nautical  and  astronomical 
sciences  of  the  day,  second  in  command  of  the  Koss  expedition 
in  1818  and  anion«>  those  who  shared  in  the  disappointments  at 
its  results,  Lieutenant  W.  E.  Parry,  althouji-h  but  twenty-nine 
years  of  aj^e,  found  himself  at  the  head  of  another  expedition 
in  search  of  the 

NORTHWEST    PASSAGE, 

a  route  of  ocean-travel  which  he  believed  to  be  feasible  and 
not  to  be  despaired  of  finding  till  after  a  thorough  exi)loration 
of  Lancaster  Sound.     Accordingly  on  the  8d  of  July,  1811),  we 
'  find  his  two  vessels,  the  "Ileda"  and  "driper,"  within  the  Arc- 

tic Circle,  and  in  almost  constant  struggle  with  the  ice  of  Baf- 
fin's Bay  till  on  the  29th  they  succeeded  in  getting  into  clear 
.  water  on  the  west  side.  Here  the  line  struck  bottom  at  a 
depth  of  1,8(50  feet  and  the  whales  were  very  numerous,  eighty- 
two  having  been  counted  in  one  day.  On  the  31st  they  arrived 
in  Possession  Bay,  near  the  mouth  of 

LANCASTER    SOUND, 

where  the  tlag-stalf  deposited  by  Koss  in  the  previous  year  was 
visited.  The  num's  tracks  W(M'e  still  fresh  in  the  sand  and 
gravel  and  the  flag-staff  remained  uninjured.  An  exploring 
l)arty  sent  three  or  four  miles  into  the  interior  to  search  fin- 
possible  timber  returned  reporting  the  region  treeless.  The 
party  saw,  however,  many  ground-plants  thriving  in  moist 
places,  a  fox,  a  raven,  a  bee,  ring-plovers,  and  snow-buntings. 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE   GREAT   ^^^ITE    WORLD.  103 

Proceeding,  tl^ey  were  soon  in  the  somewhat  warmer  waters 
of  the  soun.l.  Sa.vs  Parry:  "It  is  n.ore  easy  to  imagine  than 
•lescnbe  the  almost  breathless  anxiety,  which  was  now  visible 
m  every  countenance,  while  as  the  breeze  increase,!  to  a  fresh 
gale,  we  ran  quickly  up  the  sound.  The  mast-heads  were 
ciwded  by  the  officers  and  men  during-  the  whole  afterm,on- 
and  an  unconcerned  observer,  If  any  could  have  been  uncon- 
cerned on  such  an  occasion,  wouhl  have  been  amused  by  the 
eagerness  with  which  the  various  reports  from  the  crow's  nest 
were  received;  all,  however,  hitherto  favorable  to  our  most 
sanguine  hopes." 

August  5th  the  vessels  were  off  Leopold  Island,  at  the 
northeast  corner  of  North  Somerset  Island,  and  in  the  north- 
west angle  of  a  long  channel  of  water  running  southward  and 
named  by  Parry 

PRINCE  REGENT'S  INLET. 

Having  met  the  ice  at  Leopold  Island,  Parry  turned  south, 
sading  120  miles,  to  the  opening  of  the  inlet  into  the  wider  ex- 
IKUise  of  water  known  as  the  Gulf  of  Boothia  and  extending 
.U)0  miles  beyond  in  a  southwesterly  direction.     Here  he  again 

Z    %oV'^'  ^Y  ^'P'  ^"'"^•'  ^""^^'^"^^^  ^«°  29'  west  and  lati- 
ude  .2    13  north,  on  the  east  side  of  tli^o  i„iet,  located  the 
arthest  south  point  attained.     In  this  region  the  compasses 
became  sluggish  and  the  great  variations  caused  by  local  at- 
ractions  rendered  them  useless.     A  quantity  of 'iron-stone 
found  on  the  shore  attracte<l  the  magnet  powerfullv.     Parry 
t  here  ore  <lecided  to  return  to  Lancaster  Sound,  and  while  sail- 
ing along  the  east  coast  of  the  inlet  on  the  13th,  entered  a 
natural  harbor  one  mile  wide  and  three  deep,  named  by  him 
lortKowen.     Here  were  seen  ducks  and  dovekies  and 

NORWALS    IN   GREAT    NUMBERS. 

A  bottle  containing  a  record  of  his  proceedings  was  deposited 
and  covered  with  a  quantity  of  shaly  limestone,  wh "« 
found  to  be  abundant  in  the  locality. 

August  17th  the  vess(ds  were  off  the  headland  projecting 
into  lue  northeast  corner  of  the  inlet  at  its  junction  with  Lan^ 


104 


THE    SKAIICH    FOR   THE    NOUTll    POLE; 


ii 


••'l/V'*  **'*"! 


OH.    LiFH    IN    T»H    GREAT    WHITE    WORI.D. 


lor; 


m-m 


II 


II 


s- 


106 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


caster  Sound.  This  headland  Parry  called  Cape  York.  On 
the  next  day  they  were  sailing  westward  on  the  north  side  of 
the  sound  and  soon  entered  its  continuation  named  by  Parry 

BARROWS    STRAIT, 

op.'ning  on  the  north  side  of  which  he  discovered  on  the  2LM 
twt  remarkable  channels,  Ihe  largest  of  which,  twenty-four 
miles  wide  at  its  outlet,  he  named 

WELLINGTON   CHANNEL. 

(^)utinuino  westward,  Coruwallis,  Bathurst,  and  liyam  Martin 
islands  were  soon  discovered,  the  last-named  being  examined 
on  the  28th  by  (^aptain  Sabine,  Mr.  James  0.  Ross,  nephew  to 
Sir  John  Koss,  afterwards 'celebrated,  and  by  others.  The 
party  made  various  observations  and  a  collection  of  natural 
history  specimens.  Moss  in  abundance  was  found  in  the  moist 
valleys  and  on  the  banks  of  streams  flowing  from  the  hills. 
Tracks,  skeletons,  skulls,  and  horns  of  musk  oxen,  reindeer, 
and  bears  were  observed.     The  ruins  of  six 

ESKIMO    HUTS    DISCOVERED 

are  thus  describeil  by  Captain  Sabine:  They  were  "on  a  level, 
sandy  bank,  at  the  side  of  a  small  ravine  near  the  wea,"  an<l 
built  "of  stones  rudely  placed  in  a  circular  or  elliptical  form. 
They  were  from  seven  to  ten  feet  in  diameter;  the  broad,  flat 
sides  of  the  stones  standing  vertically,  and  the  whole  structure, 
if  such  it  may  be  called,  being  exactly  similar  to  that  of  the 
summer  huts  of  the  Esquimaux  which  we  had  seen  at  llaic 
Island  the  preceding  year.  Attached  to  each  of  them  was  a 
smaller  circle,  generally  four  or  five  feet  in  diameter,  whicli 
had  probably  been  the  fireplace.  The  small  circles  were  ])lac('(] 
indifferently  as  to  their  direction  from  the  huts  to  which  thcv 
belonged;  and  from  the  moss  and  sand  which  covered  soiix' 
of  the  stones,  particularly  those  Avliich  composed  the  flooring 
of  the  huts,  the  whole  encampment  appeared  to  have  been 
deserted  for  several  years." 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.        :  107 

September  1st  a  fine,  large  island    was   discovered    and 
uamed 

MELVILLE    ISi./".a 

[Tpon  it  were  seen  herds  „f  reindeer  and  musk  oxen,  but,  beino- 
lnj.htened  by  a  dog-  they  tied,  and  none  were  secured.     It  was 
very  apparent  that  upon  the  island  was  an  abundance  of  lifj 
lor  there  were  the  tracks  of  bears,  the  skulls,  skins  and  horn^ 
ot  reindeer  and  musk  oxen,  buiiows  of 

FOXES    AND    FIELD-MICE; 

flocks  Of  ducks  geese,  and  snow-buntings,  while  of  ptarmigans, 
several  were  shot.  At  the  beach  there  were  various  kin5s  ot' 
shells  and  an  immense  quantity  of  shrimps. 

The  magnetic  observations  made  here  and  compared  with 

those  made  in  Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  says  Captain  Sabine,  the 

astrom,mer  of  the  expedition,  "led  to  the  conclusion  thai  we 

luMl,  in  Scaling  over  the  space  included  between  the  two  me- 

ndians,  crossed  immediately  to  the  northward  of  the  maonetic 

pole,  and  had  undoubtedly  passed  over  one  of  those  sp(,Ls"upon 

he  globe  where  the  needle  would  have  been  found  to  vary 

INO     or,  ,n  other  words,  where  its  north  pole  would  have 

pointed  due  south.     This  spot  would,  in  all  probabilitv,  at  this 

tune  be  somewhere  not  far  from  the  meridian  of  100  west  of 

Greenwich." 

On  September  4th  the  vessels  passed  longitude  110°  west 
and  therefore  became  entitled  t(.  the  ' 

BOUNTY    OF    £5.0C0 

gninted  by  Parliament  as  a  stimulus  for  more  effectively  de- 
t<'nuin.ng  longitude  at  sea,  discovering  the  northwest  passao-e 
ov  approaching  the  North  Pole,  to  any  vho  should  pass  the 
llOth  meridian  west  from  Greenwich. 

To  the  bold  projection  on  the  south  shore  of  the  island  was 
J'PPlied,  in  honor  of  the  event,  the  name  of 

BOUNTY  CAPE. 

Here,  on  the  T.th,  being  stoppc-d  by  ice,  the  anchor  was  let  go 


■'m 


108 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


for  the  first  time  since  leaving  England,  and  that  in  longitude 
110°  west. 

On  the  6th  a  boat  was  sent  ashore  to  procure  turf,  or  peat, 
for  fuel,  and  some  small  pieces  of 

GOOD   COAL 

•  were  picked  up  in  various  places.  About  three-fourths  of  a 
mile  from  the  shore  two  herds  of  musk  oxen  were  seen— one 
of  nine  and  the  other  of  five;  while,  at  a  distance,  were  also 
observed  two  reindeer. 

On  the  8th  several  grouse  and  a  white  hare  were  killed. 
There  were  also  seen  field-mice,  snow-buntings,  a  snowy-owl, 
a  fox,  four  musk  oxen,  ducks,  gulls,  terns,  and  a  seal.  It  was 
very  evident  that  this  island  was  visited  if  not  inhabited  by 

MUSK    OXEN    IN    GREAT    NUMBERS, 

for  their  bones  and  horns  lay  scattered  in  every  direction  and 
the  carcass  of  one  was  found.  The  skulls  of  a  wolf  and  a  lynx 
were  picked  up  and  a  half  bushel  of  coal  was  gathered. 

On  September  10th,  Mr.  Fyfe,  the  master-i)ilot,  and  six 
other  men  from  the  "Griper"  went  asJiore  to  explore  the  island, 
taking  with  them  provisions  for  but  one  day.  After  being 
absent  two  days  fears  were  entertained  for  their  safety,  and 
Messrs.  Reid,  Beverly  and  Wakeman  having  volunteered  to 
search  for  them,  went  ashore  for  that  purpose.  They  them- 
selves, however, 

BECAME    LOST, 

and,  guided  by  fires,  lights,  and  rockets  from  the  ships  returned 
without  the  missing  ones.  Accordingly  on  the  13th  four 
search-parties  were  organized  and  before  nightfall  the  lost 
men  were  found  and  returned  to  the  ships  in  an  exhauste<l 
condition.  They  had  killed  many  grouse,  however,  and  had 
not  suffered  greatly  through  lack  of  food. 

In  the  center  of  the  island  they  had  found  fertile  valleys 
and  level  plains  aboun<ling  witli  grass  and  moss;  also  a  fresh- 
water lake  two  miles  in  length  by  one  in  width,  in  which 
were  several  species  of  trout. 


OR.    LIFE    TN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  109 

They  Uad  also  seeu  several  herds  of  leinileer  manv  ha,.™ 

'."■';''''''^-:'];---''''-p'-''ti--w„u.„,he«t.;,,S^^^^ 

Lieuteuam  I'arrj-  uo,v  de,.icled  to  go  into  winter-nnarte.^' 
and  acc«,.di„g,y  on  the  2r..h  o,  Septe'ube,.  tl.e  „„d,o  .fwere 
cho Pied  ,„  h,rty  feet  of  water  i„  a  laad-loeke,!  harbor  all 
.•ahl..'s  lensth  fro,,,  sh,„-e  i„  lousitnde  110°  48'  2"  welt  „„t 
ia(.t,,.le  -4-  47  aorth.  ,„  oi-der  to  ,et  the  ships  in,,,  lb.;  » 
was  first  neee.ssa,.,v  to  eat  a  .-hannel  „earl/two  an,  1,  lu, 
.". les  l,mg  tl„.„„gh  the  ",„„„g"  iee  nearly  eight  and  ha 
Mches  tl,„.k,  a,„l  when  the  ships  l,a,l  .ea, 'he,!  their  m,  rims 
M,e  „,en  eheere.l  heartily.     Tl,eir  haven  was  ,.alle,l  si,,!,' ly 

WINTER    HARBOR, 

and  Parry  designated  the  gr„„p  of  i»|,„„|s  wl,ieh  he  hid  dia 
.•"v<.re.l.  tl,e  Nortl,  (leorgian  Island.,,  after  (ie,,.,.:  "  tZ 
they  have  s,nee  been  named  the  Pa.'rv  Islanils 

During  the  month  of  O.-tober  n,any  ,.ei„,leer'were  seen  an,l 
seve,.al  shot;  a  wolf  was  seen  and  a  fox  ,.an,.l,t 

■)•'  '■'"''  "r"'"-  "•'"'  ■">«'  "Pon  then,,  tlnr|„.„ting  an-an^v,.. 

.aents  were  looke,l  after,  an.l  by  utilising  the  stea.n  b  ile  s 
and  a  syse,n  of  tnbing  the  ninetyfonr  men  were  „„,,  e  I 
.omfortable  ,n  their  q„a,.te,.s,  so  fa,-,  as  la-at  an,l  food  ar,! 
.■.mee.-ned,  as  ,„„hl  have  b,.en  ,l,.sire,l.  I„  ,,,.,1,.,.  t„  „„i„tai  , 
a  raternal  feeling  a.nong  all  on  boa,.,l,  the  yonng  ,.,„  ,  a  " 
anowe,l  no  d,seri,ninati„n  to  be  n,ad,.  either  as  to  „„.,,, tt! 
".•  nnalitv  of  food,  b,.tw,.en  the  omeer^  „„d  ,nen.    J  ,!^ 

■  Inmself  jo,ne,l  heartily  in  varions  plans  set  on  f„„     o.^ 
i;  purpose  of  passing  away  the  long,  dark  .nonths.    An,on" 
lliese  wer,.  a  series  of  tl,eatri..al  exhibitions,  given  everv  tw," 
w"eks,  a  s,.|,ool,  an,l  the  pnbli,.ati„n  of  a  .lail    (exeept  S,,,^; 
n;-pnper  ..ailed  the  "Winter  Chroni.-le,  oV'x,„.t'l,  ^^:!^l 

During  the  day  n<,rti.m  of  eaeh  twenty.f.„,r  ho„,.s,  tl„. 

speet,on,  bank,ng  „p  the  ships  with  snow,  walking  f,r  ex,.,^ 

xxroCt::''*-'  '■"""^^'  ■■""'"■■'"^'  -"» -  ■-■'"-"-■ 

8 


«l 


110 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


Ou  January  12tli  the  tlierinometer  sank  to  — 51°F  in  the 
open  air.     Tliis  caused  brandy  to  become 

AS    THICK    AS    HONEY. 

Two  days  later  tlie  maximum  cold  was  experienced,  viz 

On  February  3d,  from  the  top  of  the  main-mast,  fifty-one 
feet  above  the  sea,  the  sun  was  seen  for  the  first  time  in  ei-htv- 
four  days.  ^     ' 

On  the  24th  the  observatory  was  nearly  destroyed  by  fire 
John  Smith,  Parry's  servant,  in  assisting  Sergeant  Martin  t(i 
save  the  dipping-needle,  had  his  hand  so  severely  frozen  that 
when  taken  on  board  by  Mr.  Edwards  and  his  hands  placed  in 
water,  ice  immediately  formed  on  the  surface  of  the  water  bv 
the  intense  cold  thus  suddenly  imparted  to  it.  Later,  it  was 
made  necessary  to  amputate  four  fingers  of  one  hand  and 
three  of  the  other. 

March  8th  more  than  one  hundred  bucketsful  of  ice,  each 
containing  from  four  to  five  gallons,  were  removed  from  the 
ships'  sides,  this  being  the  condensation  of  the  vapor  of  the 
men's  breaths  and  from  the  victuals  in  four  weeks'  time. 

In  order  to  assist  in  preventing  the  ravages  of  scurvy  Parry 
grew  in  his  own  cabin  a  small  garden  of  mustard  and  cress 
and  distributed  it  among  the  men. 

April  30th  the  thermometer  again  touched  the  melting- 
point,  the  first  time  since  September  12th.  On  the  next  day 
the  midnight  sun,  the 

SUN    THAT    NEITHER   SETS    NOR    RISES, 

was  seen.  On  this  day  also,  the  rations,  as  a  matter  of  pru- 
dence, were  reduced  to  two-thirds  of  the  stated  allowance  ex- 
cept in  the  matter  of  meat  and  sugar.  The  expedition  had 
now  been  absent  a  year-half  the  time  for  which  it  was  pro- 
visioned. The  men  were  now  set  to  cutting  the  ice  from 
around  the  vessels.  Tt  was  seven  feet  thick  and  so  lieavv  that 
when  freed  from  it  the  ships  immediately  rose  two  feet 'in  the 


OR,    LIPB   m   THE   GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.      '  „i 

vme...^^TLe  ,„o„  at  thi.  time  .uttem,    severely    from    t^e 

SNOW   BLINDNESS, 
ii  sensation  similar  tn  timf  /.„.,      i  i. 

As  „  re,„e,„.  ZZ        '  '  1  7.  tf    ''  T"  "'' ''™'  '"  ^""^  ''J*"'- 
On  \I-,v  "Jti,  .1  *'"''■  ™"'"'g  ''"•»"»  were  used 

About  this  time  the  seurw  moj..  u 
nrtncked  one  of  the  s^Uors  uZ  ^  ^PPearance,  having 

lu.l.it(.featino.tl  ef.rir'         '      «PP^«i'ed,  had  been  in  the 
«iiiu^  (lie  lat  SKiniminirs  or  "«iiici.  »  #-,       ^i 

"hiol,  .,nlt  meat  La,l  been  boUed  '     '  "'  ""  "'■'*"■  '" 

■lime  1st  Lieutenant  Parrv    r-mtnin  t!„i,-        ^^ 
•Messrs.  Nia.  and  Keid,  mid.Il^m™'^  Z  t '^m^'.f  r'^'' 
seamen  and  marines  set  out  to  Lplore  the  Nhnd      o?'      "' 
'I'-'wu  b.v  tbe  men  were  carried  tbree  «e,L.  ■  •  ''"■' 

for  fuel,  and  two  teiit«  .,lt„    !  '"  prciiisioiis,  wood 

Thev  traveled  ;;;"^;'i!X?!,r'''''"''^  """«  '""  """■'"- 
llM.  northern  are  of  the  ,„I  ,    '"  "'""  '■"■<'""«  '"»•  ™ 

p.'Ho.lof  tbe<  av  olttanTT;  *''" ,•""""''  '"<>  warn.er 
'1-Ks  nud  ptannigau"  vtre  met  wUh^l  '  "1"  '"""  "'"-• 
«nns  killed.  I,>om  tbe  ton"  of  (!  r""™""  "'*' ''''""»■ 
masts  of  tbe  "Heela"  ■  L  th,. .  n  ,'    '  """''  "''  ^''''"  ♦"« 

"■  H.e  ,listan,.e.  To  t„  ,*■".'"  """'"  "''  '^"''"  "'"^« 
sreat  plain.    Thev   „    •  .  .  1',"'"'  !"  *"""  -'■^*""*"  " 

«n,,.l  n,ade  of  sal^p  po:.,;:::;;.';.te;;  C? '■^'"'^  •■"■"  ■'  .»•'*  "f 
„,,:-■""--  "■■"  '"«•-  --  fre„uentl,  seen  as  tbe,  jour- 

Captain  Sabine  became  affected  witb  .  u       , 
•'"(  was  therefore  ,Iraw„  „p„„  the  c-,,        ,  '*"  "'"""'■""t 

i:;r;:^';rr-/>'--">^-;.i:tr::':y!;-^ 
"-».  was  an  arm  o;t :^ --r  iii -r:r ;:r r 


i^ 


112 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE   NORTH    POLE; 


M 


tauco  was  named  after  Captain  Sabine,  while  otlier  features 
Avere  named  after  various  members  of  tiie  party.  Tlmt  tliere 
had  been  periods  of  open  water  was  proven  by  the 

DISCOVERY    OP    FIR-WOOD, 

consisting-  of  a  pole  seven  and  a  half  feet  long  and  three  or 
four  inches  thick.  It  was  found  eighty  yards  inland  and 
thirty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  had  probably  jour- 
neyed from  the  opposite  coast  of  Russia  or  Siberia, 

Befoi'e  leaving  the  bay  a  stone  cairn  twelve  feet  high  and 
as  many  feet  in  diameter  was  erected.  In  it  was  deposited  a 
tin  cylinder  containing  a  record  of  their  proceedings,  besides 
several  coins  and  naval  buttons. 

Leaving  the  bay,  th(»  i)arty  traveled  southward,  bearing  to 
the  west.  Many  ptarmigans  were  shot  and  afforded  excellent 
additions  to  their  daily  rations.  The  tracks  and  horns  of  rein- 
deer were  very  numerous.  Finally,  a  very  long  inlet  was 
reached  and  named  Liddon  Gulf  in  honor  of  the  commander 
of  the  "Oriper,"  while  the  two  capes  at  its  extremity  were 
called  lieechey  and  Ilopjmer,  after  lieutenants  of  the  "liecla" 
and  the  "driper"  resi)ectively.  The  shores  of  the  gulf  were  high 
and  precipitous.  The  cart  was  broken  and  the  wheels  were 
abandoned  there,  the  other  ])arts  being  cai  ried  along  for  fuel. 
In  the  center  of  the  gulf  and  rising  abruptly  on  its  western  side 
to  a  height  of  seven  hundred  feet  was  discovercMl  a  bairen 
island  of  sandstone  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  length.  It  was 
named  in  honor  of  Mr.  Hooper,  the  purser  of  the  "Ilecla." 
Here  were  killed 

FOUR  FAT  GEESE 

and  a  great  many  animals  seen.  A  fine  valley  was  discovered 
and  in  it  were  many  tracks  <tf  reindeer  and  musk  oxen.  The 
pasturage  was  excellent.  On  the  13th  several  ptarmigans  and 
golden  plovers  were  killed.  A  herd  of  not  less  than  thirteen 
reindeer,  and  a  musk-ox,  were  seen.     On  this  same  day 

SIX    ESKIMO    HUTS 

were  also  discovered  and  are  thus  described:  "They  consisted 
of  rude  circles,  about  six  feet  in  diameter,  constructed  irregu- 


features 
lat  there 


three  or 
1111(1  and 
bly  jour- 

lij^h  and 
)osite<l  a 
,  besi(h*s 

'aring  to 
'xcelleut 
s  of  rein- 
ilet  was 
iinaudei' 
ity  were 
"riechi" 
ere  hi^li 
ids  were 
for  fuel, 
erii  side 
I  barren 
It  was 
"rieehi." 


^covered 
'u.  The 
fans  and 
thirteen 

y 

onsisted 
I  irregu- 


Kondall.      5)     VVi      .rVi.vv     tT  ^TBuklin,   (iroat  lUr  l'  k,.'   i ,  r"? ''"^'"    ^'^f-. 


■  '.if 


A 


... /'.-^  I'"!!*/ *"''*'"«  Afloat— Back.  (I'.)  A«ain  AKrounil  in  Slumlwater  Bay  at 
Mi(liii«lit,  July  7,  Ihai-Back.  (:t.)  First  Di'ti-nfioti  hy  Ice-Hack.  (4.)  Youiib 
Eskimo  VVoniaii  of  Iribe  VVi'st  of  Markpiizit- River,  July  il,  l8-.t)--Back.  (.5.)  Kski- 
rnos  Wost  of  tli.>  Mackenzie,  July  it,  lH',i(i-  Back.  (6.)  Winter  House  of  Eskim 
Drawn  July  VZ,  I,v26-Hack.     (Sec  c;hai)tor  XI.) 


lino, 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    OREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  Hj 

",.!%'  ■'■'"",'.'"■  ''""'""'•  '^"'"■^"  "•'■"'  I""'^^'"  «■'"■  large 
T,  V  ",  ,"  "••'"«'-'-"'">«»<>■'",  «-l.i.'h  is  here  abun.la,". 
J  lie  n  ,«s  l,a,l  spread  ..v.^r  u.is  Il„„r,  a„,l  appeared  to  be  (he 

was  a  small  separate  loiiipartiiient  foriiiinK  a  reeess  i)f„i,  ,.tin„ 

o..twar,.   „.„i,.h  ha.,  pr„„a.„,  ,,..0  tl.ei,' ri:;.       ',     " 

a  ,.w  feet  fr,„n  .,„e  of  the  huts  was  a  sn.aller  .-irele  of  sto  at 

"""•"  !!"  '•'" «■'!  <!"■  «''<'l>l".e,  the  ,„arks  of  fire  beial  s  ill' 

I>eiceptible  upou  theni."  " 

Vegetalioa  on  tl,,.  islan.l  „o,v  la-an  to  flourish.     Tin.  savi. 

a«   was  „,  blosson,,  while  the  sorrel  was  far  a,lvaa,-ed      Of 

.s  the  „.e.,  ..athered  a„d  ate  larj^e  yuun.ities  as  a  pre  euti  '' 

01  tlie  scurvy.  *      '^"ini- 

On  the  t.-ith  Parry  and  his  part.v  ret„rne,l  to  the  ships  after 
"urney  of  about  18fl  n.ih.s.     Jleanwhile  th,.  ships'  ee 
|-< .«..  busdv  en,pl„,.ed  in  reloa.lin,  ballast  and  rlst.-wi;: 

Iluntinf.  ],arties  were  now  sent  out  in  every  direction      nr 
I..sher  and  two  „,e„  eonsHtuted  one  of  tlnj.      lis      kv     ," 

e  eourse  of  ten  days,  saw  thirty  de..,  of  whieh  ,|,    '     ,', 
b  t  two,    hes,.  be,n^.  small  and  weighins  when  .Iressed  abou 
my  or  SIX  y  poun.ls.    They  saw  two  wolves,  severa       " 
""'1  ".any  hares.    Of  the  hares  they  killed  but  f  u     these 
"v..ra«,n.  about  seven  and  a  half  pounds  in  weigh  .    T,  'ev  ,     , 
saw  brent  geese,  king  duok.s,  long-tailed  du.'ks,   Ar,    ,      nd 

1  ".tings     Although  very  wary,  about  a  dozen  ge,.se  were 
shot.    l"ifteen  ptannigans  were  also  killed 

About  the  2r,th  of  .Tune  the  grass  was  fron,  two  to  three 
..e.sh,gh,  while  the  sorrel  was  so  abundant  that  it  re  ,   i.d 
l>..t  a  f,.w  unnutes  for  the  men  to  obtain  enough  for  their  din 
..■.■■»ala,ls  twi,.e  a  week.     The  .sorrel  was  eate^  with  via  eg 

sellrvT."  "'^        '"       '"'"'•'  '•'■"'"■■"<■"'  "»  "  preventive  of  th<: 

On  .Tune  .lOth,  however,  the  death  of  William  Seott.  a  b„aK 

«va,n  s  mate,  occurred.    Ue  died  of  scurvy  and  a  complica- 


114 


THE    SEAUCII    FOR    THE    NOUTH    POLE; 


tioii  of  otlicr  (limcuKioM.     Ou  (he  2(1  of  Jul.v  \w  was  buried  on 
slM»re  Willi  ««i'eat  respeit  and  soleniity.     Over  his 

LONELY    GRAVE  ' 

was  erected  a  sandstone  slab  which  had  been  suitably  in- 
scribed ami  enj^raved  by  Dr.  Fisher. 

A  funeral,  however,  was  nol  the  only  occasion  f(U'  relijrious 
observance  ainc.jio'  Hie  otticers  and  men  of  this  ('xpedition,  for 
regularly  every  Sunday  divine  services  were  held  and  a  serinon 
was  read  on  both  vessels. 

From  the  series  of  tichil  observations  made  while  at  Winter 
Harbor  it  was  found  that  (he  maximum  of  rise  and  fall  of  (he 
tides  was  four  feet  and  four  inches. 

()n  July  14th  a  lar<>e  cairn  was  erected  on  the  most  con- 
spicuous hill  overlookino-  (he  sea  and  in  it  were  deposited  the 
usuil  notices,  coins,  etc.,  and  on  a  larj-v  st(me  was  engraved 
a  m)tice  of  (he  winterino  of  the  ships  in  the  harbor.  On  the 
;iOth  the  ice  beoan  („  niove  from  the  bay  in  a  body. 

August  1st  the  ships  were  clear  of  ice  and  sailing  west- 
ward. On  the  ()th  a  landing  was  nuide,  and  during  the  fol- 
lowing night  fourteen  hares  were  killed,  together  with  a  num- 
ber of  glaucous  gulls,  which  were  found  with  their  y<mng  on 
a  precipitous,  isolated  rock. 

The  ice  was  vei-y  thick  in  this  part  of  the  sea  and  violent 
collisions  took  place  among  the  huge  floes.  Oreat  ice-cakes 
fifty  and 

SIXTY    FEET    IN    THICKNESS 

lay  stranded  in  vast  heaps  upon  the  beach.  On  the  {)th  a 
musk  ox  weighing  over  700  pounds  was  killed.  From  it  was 
obtaine<l  421  pounds  of  fresh  meat  quite  free  from  any  taint  of 
musk. 

The  ships  now  moved  on,  making  but  slow  progress  through 
the  ice-floes  everywhere  from  forty  to  lifty  feet  thick.  On  the 
15th  and  10th  they  were  off  a  jireciiiitous  headland  on  the 
southwest  i)ortion  of  the  island  which  was  named  Tape  Dun- 
das.  Tn  this  locality  Parry  made  his  farthest  west,  lon<Titudc 
113°  4G'  43",  latitude  74°  20'  25".     To  the  southwest  the'I'e  aj.- 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  ns 

P<'J"vd  a  lM»I,|  rock-boiin,!  mast  risin-  qhnmflv  n 

<.Hu.nv^e  un.ro.ou  expanse  of  i.:2l    o  7'  ..  '"1^   .l'" 
name  of  ^''''J  gave  tlie 

BANKS'  LAND. 

On  August  2.-M  tlie  ships  fought  their  wiv  n...       ,     • 

ever  known.  *«>»'.>  sa^s  iio  ijad 

')"  the  24tb  a  landing  was  mado  an.l  f„„r  ont  „f  •,  i,     ,    . 
■scvcu  mask  balls  were  killeil      Ti„.v  .„•  ,  "'  "' 

"Ix.at  3(i0  pounds      Pro.,     ?       ^'7  "><™K«1  when  welghe,! 

..ft.K.seanL:;r;„d    :,.:;;;.^;;;';;^;<'^^^^ 

the.  d^  not  ndgrate  fron.  the  is^i;::d  d:;;-,  \  rw";  r'  """ 

turning  to  eZS' i?T'  """"""'•'"  "-  i "M"n  of  «■• 

l"inl.eH„.nu.t  w  ,    :  '■.'■" '"•"  "'  *'"'  «'■«*  «'-k  in  Sep- 

;;^.«n.na:;:d;;;;:;:;r;;;::r::lt;^ 

^"twi^:;;;-^------ .:;:'o;';;:^C'nr 

p.™'eede,i\;;  Jan ■.",/■;; p'r''r'''r''''''"'''-^'-^ 

»h,  and  a  fortnighVr:- tn^or™'"' ''■""''"''' *••■'"''- 


AKROWTAR.  SNOW-BEATElt, 


I 


I 


116 


THMi   SEAHCll    I'Ull    THE    NOUTll    I'OLE; 


CnArTEK    VI. 

•FRANKLIN'S  FIRST  EXPEDITION. 

"Of  obariirc  but  rpsiMMlablc  imrcntajic!"  Such  is  the  car 
Hest  account  of  Sir  Joliu  Fiaukliu, 

Horn  in  i.iiicolnshiic,  lOuj-laud,  iii  17S(>,  but  four  years  bc- 
f«>ro  Scorcsby,  Jr.  and  Williaiu  10.  Tarry,  lie,  liivc  tbcui,  made 
tlicniost  of  his  liuic  and  ros<*  ra|)idly  (o  distinction.  At  first  in- 
tended for  the  cliurch,  ids  fatlier  tliouj-ii.t  to  cure  him  of  a  (h'- 
sire  for  a  seafarin*;-  life-  by  sending  liim  on  <listant  voyages. 
Tlie  experiences,  instead,  confirmed  liim  in  ids  inclinations 
toward  a  "life  on  tlie  ocean  wave,"  and  lie  accordin<>lv  entered 
the  Koyal  Xavy.  Like  Parry,  he  was  amon^-  those  whom  (ireal 
liritain  sent  to  be  (hrashed  by  the  Americans  in  the  war  (»f 
LS12  and  was  wounded  in  the  fatal  , 

ATTACK    ON    NEW    ORLEANS 

in  1HL5.  Four  years  later  we  hear  of  him  leadinj-'  an  expedi- 
tion for  the  i)uri)ose  of  "deternnninj«  latitudes  and  lonj-itudes, 
and  exploring  the  continent  eastward  fnmi  the  (VnuK'nuine 
Jiiver." 

Sailiiij;  from  London,  in  May,  ISP),  in  a  course  of  a  few 
Aveeks  the  three  ships  under  his  command  were  off  the  coast 
of  (Jreenland.  Here  the  "Prince  of  Wales,"  in  his  immediate 
command,  struck  upon  a  reef  and  in  spite  of  the  utmost  exer- 
tions of  all  on  board  and  the  ccmstant  workin<>  of  the  i>umps, 
the  vessel,  now  separated  from  her  consorts  in  a  jj;ale,  seemed 
doomed. 

Some  women  bound  for  the  Hudson  l?ay's  ccdonies  j^ave 
heroic  assistance  durino-  tliis  tryin.i»  period  and  merited  tli'> 
praise  of  the  gallant  Franklin,  who  says  that  their  example 


OH.    LIFE    IN   THL'   (illEAT 

(lid  nnich  to  stimulate  the  otToi-fs  of 
slni-j.|(..    Hy  (lu.  tiuwly  iiNc  of  „al 


WHITE    WOULD.  117 

mon  in  tlie  iiii(>(|iial 


w 


Jis  HO  «r<'all.v  red  tired 
iiicoiiiin}-  wafer  aiul  tju 
Hie  damage  was  repaired 
Atigusi  :iO(ii  Frankl 


l'^'""  aud  caiivaN  ihc  Imh 
•»  Nize  tliat  Ilie  pump.s  ;;ained  on  tl 


ve.s.se!  overt oolc  lier  eoni) 


le 


•anions  and 


in  aiiived  at 


YORK    FACTORY. 


ii<nv  known  as  Fort  York.     An.on"! 


son  and  AIe.s.srs.  Haek  an<l  IIoo<l,  mid.sl 
llii-ee  men  were  experienced 


«■  IMS  party  were  Dr.  K'ieinn'd- 


npmen  in  tlienavv.     All 


"•lapN'd  t(.  thedimenll  work  of  oxol 

From  York  Factory  Frankl 
to  Fort  Cliipewvan  h 


•nivinalor.s,   but   were  al 

ploiation  by  land. 
>'»  and  |)arty  nia<le  f| 


so  well 


freat  dei)re.ssi<.n   leadiim    to  <i 


.V  way  of  the  streai 


'o  .jonrnev 


"s  and  lakes  in  (I 


le 


Jiscendino  one  of  (he  st 


'«'  <Ji'«'at  Slave   Lake.     \Vhih 


one  of  the  banl< 


loams  Franklin,  wl 


N,  was  precipitated  into  tl 


0  was  St 


iindino 


on 


was  saved   with  dilTlcnltv.     I 


'oimd  a  small 


island  on  which 


'o  cnrrent  and  his  lif(. 


livers   was 


such 


power  as  to  rend<'r  nseless  tin 


wit  Inn  nnm-e  of  its 


11   another  of  these 
was  a  (pnintity  of  iron-stone  of 

,oonf,-f    •    ..  ^  the  c(mipas.ses  when  iM'.mohf 

ifioof  its  inflnence.  ^ 

The  i;ith  (»f  .Tnly  fonnd  the  entire  nartv  -it  Fm-MM.; 
Here  thev  enoa..,.,|  sivtcM,  c,..  .  •'  '"l^'wyan. 

'     "•     ll..«  innnl,,.,.  ,.,nl,™,-,.,l  tl,,,,.  l,„|i„„  i,,,,,,:,,.^,,,, 

oi'T.,;',,::  ^'tTif ""'  T  ■"■■•"""'■ "'  """'-^  .■•i-n,;." ,;,:,":, : 

'oi  rne  men  at  the  winter  quarters 

U  ^^i^atpinat.ons  were  endured  and  hnally  the  (^uiadian 

VOYAGEURS    REBELLED 

f;;f;r^:;^;t:;-:t;'ri,;;:;':,,;::;;r- 

:::M;;:::;:;r:;::;;r;;;;;---:rt-T'""^ 


118 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE   NORTH    POLE; 


Somewhat  later,  old  A-kal-tcho,  a  shrewd  yet  friendly 
Chipewyau  chief  who  with  some  of  his  tribe  had  joined  Frank- 
lin at  the  fort,  declared  that,  owing  to  the  near  approach  of 
winter,  it  would  be  hazardous  to  proceed  farther.  In  vain 
Franklin  argued  the  case  and  stated  his  desire  to  observe  an 
eclipse  that  was  about  to  occur  nearer  the  sound  of  the  Copper- 
mine. The  old  chief,  however,  informed  Franklin  that,  should 
he  persist  in  advancing  farther,  he  would  send  some  of  his 
young  men  to  accompany  them,  that  it  might  not  be  said  of  the 
Indians  that  they  had  guided  the  white  men  to  those  barren 
regions  and  there  left  them  to  die  alone. 

Hereupon  Franklin  decided  to  g6  into  winter-quarters. 
This  was  on 

WINTER    LAKE, 

situated  between  the  source  of  the  Yellow  Knife  River,  the 
ascent  of  which  from  Great  Slave  Lake  they  had  just  com- 
pleted, and  the  head  of  the  Coppermine  Kiver,  the  descent  of 
which  they  desired  to  begin  that  season. 

On  the  0th  of  October  the  officers  took  up  their  abode  in  a 
commodious  log  house  which  had  been  built.  The  roof  and 
walls  of  the  house  were  plastered  with  clay  tempered  before 
the  fire  with  Avater,  and  frozen  as  it  was  daubed  on.  This 
rough  plastering  afterwards  cracked,  so  as  to  admit  the  wind 
from  every  direction. 

Nevertheless,  a  good  fire  of  fagots  built  in  the  capacious 
clay-built  chimney  rendered  the  quarters  quite  comfortable. 

By  the  end  of  the  month  the  men  had  completed  a  house 
34  feet  by  18  for  themselves.  The  encampment  was  named 
Fort  Enterprise. 

Before  the  i5th  of  October  one  hundred  deer  had  been 
killed  and  placed  in  the  store-house,  together  with  dried  meat 
and  one  thousand  pounds  of  suet.  Moreover,  the  carcasses  of 
eighty  deer  had  been  cached,  that  is,  buried  beneath  heavy 
stones  or  timbers  and  thus  protected  from  the  wolves  anil 
other  destroyers. 

In  the  meantime  fishing  was  carried  on  with  considerable 
success,  about  twelve  hundred  whitefish,  each  weighing  from 


on.     This 
;  the  wind 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


119 


two  to  three  pountlH,  having  been  secured. 


were  taken  from  the 


u*e,  so  that  a  bh)w  or  tw 


They  froze  as  thev 


1    ..  ^ »  ""  '""^  *i  ""»v  or  TWO  with  a  hatehet 

nr  kn  fe  was  sufficient  to  split  them  ope.,,  wl,e,.  the  intest    e» 
...  Kht  be  removed  in  one  soli.l  i„„,p.    Even  th„„sh  fr^!, 
.0 h,l  for  nearly  two  days,  «p„„  bein«  thawed  before  a  Are  th 
tah  would  "come  to  life  again,"  that  is,  of  course,  simply  re- 
h  ,f  V       T""-''""-    '""'  '^^"''"■'  ''™-"  'l™"!  with  the 
hhort  y  after  going  into  winter-quarters  Messrs  Back  and 
Hood,  w.th  eight  Canadians,  an  inlrpreter,  and  one    ndian 
«;"..le,  made  a  journey  to  Point  Lake,  nearer  the  source'^   he 
(oppermme     They   returned   Septen,b,.r   lOth.     Abou      le 
same  t.me  Franklin  and  Uichardson,  wiih  a  sean.an      ,n  ed 
J.  Hepburn,  and  two  Indians,  one  of  then,  being  old  Kaska 
■ah,  the  guule,  set  out  in  th.-  same  direction.    A  reindee    Im 
.ng  been  killed   the  Indians  .extracted  the  niarrow  f  ,  n      e 
less  of  the  annual  and  ate  of  it  raw  with   relish     Thev 

"»<i  not  eat.     Later,  however,  his  taste  was  not  so  fastidions 
n,I  he  de,  ared  such  fare  to  be  ,lelicious.     In  the     .   te     , 
«lee  ung,  wl„l,.  the  white  men,  in  their  thick  suits  an,l  wrap  „ 
...  blankets  suffered  frou.  the  cohl,  old  Kaska....ah,  hav  ng  Hrs 
i;«'|.n«Hl  his  bed  of  rags  an.l  skins,  would  st,.!,  ....ked  a 

'  ""fort    1  he  party  returned  to  the  "Kort"  on  the  141  h,  l.avin.. 

ii"i'le  a  journey  of  about  ir.()  .niles. 

O..  the  2(ith  of  October  old  A-kai-tcho,  with  his  hunters  and 
women  and  children,  numbering  in  all  about  fortv  soul.s,  ,.ame 

t.  f.-...n  the  chase  and  ren.ained  as  an  additional  burden  upon 

'  i-anklin,  who,  however,  got  rid  of  the.,,  on  the  lOlh  (,f  Decern- 
b,'l-  by  representing  to  then,  the  in.possibility  of  k,.epi„g  ,hen. 
The  (,I,1  ,.h.ef,  however,  left  his  ...other  and  (wo  female  at  l,.ud- 
arits  at  the  fort.     Kaskari-ah,  the  guide,  with  his  wife  and 
ila..gl.tei-,  also  remai..ed. 

"GREE.N    STOCKINGS" 

was  the  name  of  this  beautiful   girl  of  sixteen,  of  whom 
ii<:  Hood  secured  a  good  likeness,  although  objected  to  by  her 


120 


THE    SKAIICFI    FOR    THR    NORTH    POLE; 


inothor  for  four  that  it  iniolit  be  tho  meaus  of  iiidueing  the 
"(h'catChiof  of  Enolaiid"  to  kimhI  for  tlio  orij-inal.  This  belle 
of  the  tribo  had  already  been  the  wife  of  two  successive  hus- 
bands. 

I)uriu«»'  the  winter  several  parties  were  despatched  to  brin^ 
up  supplies  from  the  south,  at  Forts  Providence  and  Chipt^ 
w.vay.  Many  of  the  caches  of  the  reindeer  meat  were  de- 
stroyed by  the  wolves,  these  ravenous  creatures  even  veutur- 
injr  upon  the  roof  <»f  the  house  in  their  nocturnal  prowlings. 
The  rations  were  reduced  from  eight  ounces  of  animal  food  a 
(hiy  to  live  ounces.  On  the  2'M  of  March  the  last  of  the  win- 
ter's supply  of  deer's  meat  was  consumed,  and  the  party  were 
reduced  to  one  meal  a  day,  consisting  of  a  little  pounded  meat, 
which  had  been  saved  for  nuiking  pemmican,  and  a  verv 
scanty  supply  of  fish. 

(\)ncerning  the  destitute  Indian  families,  consisting  princi- 
pally of  .sick  and  infirm  women  and  childreu,  about  the  en- 
campment, says  Franklin:  "When  we  beheld  them  gnawing 
the  pieces  of  hide  and  pounding  th(^  bones  for  the  i)uri)ose  o*f 
extracting  s(.me  nourishment  fnMu  them  bv  boiling  we  re- 
gretted our  inability  to  reli(Me  them,  but  littk  thought  that 
we  should  ourselves  be  afterward  driven  to  the  necessity  of 
eagerly  collecting  th(»se  same  bones,  a  second  time  fronrthe 
dung-hill." 

On  the  17th  of  March  Mi'.  Rack  returned  from  liis  trip  of 
eleven  hundred  miles  to  Fort  Thipewyan  aft(M'  an  absence  of 
five  nu)nths.  He  had  traveled  on  sm)w-shoes,  with  no  other 
shelter  at  night  than  a  blanket  and  deer  skin,  the  thermometer 
often  being  at  40°  below  zero  and  once  at  57°  below,  while  he 
often  i)assed  several  days  without  food,  [lis  Indian  com- 
panions were  very  gvnerous,  often  giving  up  and  not  tasting  of 
lisli  an<l  birds  caughi  by  tliemselves,  saying:  "We  are  accus- 
tomed to  starvation  and  you  are  not." 

Says  Hack  in  his  narrative:  "One  of  our  men  caught  a  fish, 
which,  with  the  assistance  of  some  weeds  scrai)ed'from  the 
I'X'ks  (trii)e  de  roche),  which  forms  a  glutinous  substance,  made 
us  a  tolerable  supper;  it  was  not  of  the  most  choice  kind,  yet 


siiunvinii 


'o  acrus- 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  Ui 

-.M..1  onoiioh  for  h.n.jrrv  ni(MK  Wl.ilo  we  wcv  catino  it  [  nor- 
.•|Mvo(l  ,MHM,f  tlM.  women  busily  (Mnplov.-.I  s.rapinj.  an  <,M  skin, 
the  coutents  of  which  her  husband  p^ssented  us  with  Thev 
n.ns.sted  of  pounded  meat,  fat,  and  a  greater  propoHion  of 
Indian's  and  deer's  hair  than  either;  and,  thouo).  sueh  a  mix- 
tiiiv  may  m.t  appear  very  allurino  to  an  EnoHsii  stomach,  it 
was  thought  a  great  luxury  aft(«r  three  (h..ys'  privation  in  these 
cheerh'ss  regions  of  America." 

On  the  22d  of  June  the  entire  party,  having  h'ft  F(,rt  En- 
terprise, Avere 

DESCENDING    THE    COPPERMINE. 

Fortunately,  on  the,  2r,th,  they  sncceech'd  in  killing  several 
musk  oxen.  As  they  journeyed  the  course  of  the  stream  be- 
came much  contracted  between  precipitous  banks  from  ei.-htv 
<c.  one  hundred  feet  high,  m  this  region  the  <-opper  ndne; 
^yluMlce  the  In<lians  and  Eskimos  had  obtained  material  for 
tlieir  spears  and  implements  wck?  visited. 

On  the  15th  of  July  the  mouth  of  the  Coj^permine  was  si<.l,t- 
cd  from  the  top  of  a  hill,  and  four  days  later  the  party  arri^Ml 
tiuM-e.     It  was  choked  with  ice  and  full  of  islands. 

Meanwhile,  constant  watch  was  kept  to  discover  the  pres- 
J'nce  of  any  Eskimos  in  this  region  and  to  avoi,l  anv  collision 
iH'tween  them  and  their  own  Indian  alli(>s,  who  had",  however 
l'romis(Ml  not  to  disturb  their  more  defenseless,  vet  detested' 
nr.ghb.n-s  of  the  north.  The  otticers  gladly  took  turns  in  main- 
(Mining  thes(.  wat<-lies  and  it  was  while  Dr.  Ki,-hards(Mi  was 
P.'if(.nuing  this  .luty  that  the  following  incident  occurred: 
One  night,  while  <.ii  the  first  watch,  he  had  seated  himself 
on  a  hill  overhanging  the  river;  his  thoughts  were  poss'blv 
'HTupied  with  far  <listant  scenes,  when  he  was  aroused  b; 
ail  indistinct  noise  behind  him,  and  on  looking  round,  saw  that 

NINE   WHITE   WOLVES 

I'ad  arranged  themselves  in  the  form  of  a  .avscent  round  him 

and  were  advancing  apparently  with  the  intention  of  <lrivino' 

m.  into  the  river.     Ue  had  his  gun  in  his  han,l,  but  did  uui 

'Uiie  hre  for  fear  of  alarming  any  Esquimaux  who  might  be 


122 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


in  Ihe  noiol.boihoo,!.  T^pon  l,is  lisino,  tUoy  luiUod,  and  when 
lie  J'.lvanccd  toward  thoin  in  a  menacing  manner,  tliev  at  on.e 
made  wav  for  Ids  passa«>v,  down  to  the  tents." 

They,  however,  fell  in  with  sn.all  parties  of  Eskimos,  with 
wlioni  friendly  relations  were  n'.aintained. 

Arri vino^  at  the  sea,  distant  fro,,,  Foii  En(,.rprise  334  miles, 
M,-.  \\  <M,tzel,  an  a«v„t  of  the  N.  W.  Fn,.  Vominim;  who  had  ac- 
n.mpanie,!  Il„>  pa,ty  fron,  (M,i,,ewyan,  set  ont\,u  his  retnn, 
o  (.reat^  Slave  Lake.  He  took  with  hi,,,  dis,,atehes  for  Eno- 
laud  and  was  a(  con.panied  by  fonr  Canadians.  Jle  was  also 
«  S(M«  that  th(^  India„s  deposited  a  relay  of  provisions  at  Fort 
Ent(M-p,-,se  for  the  party  shonhl  they  retnrn  that  way 

Two  conspicuous  capes  were  named  by  Franklin  in'  honor  of 
came  and  Mackenzie,  while  a  river  eniptyinj.^  into  the  sea 
tarther  eastwai'd  was  called  the 

RICHARDSON    RIVER, 

after  his  co,npani(m.  Dr.  Kichardson. 

On  July  21st  the  party  embarked  in  two  canoes  with  p.-o- 
v.s,ons  for  tjo  weeks,  and  began  their  voyaj.e  eastward  upon 
ho  A,-ctic  Sea.  On  the  25tl,  they  doubled  and  na,ne<l  < ',pe 
Har,-ow  so  called  in  con,pliu.ent  to  Mr.  Barrow  of  the 
adn„ralty,  and  in  wl,ose  honor  Parry  had  na.ned  the  strait 
lv,nj,  seve,.;,     ,und,.ed  n,iles  ncn-thwest  <»f  that  point.     Fo,..un- 

about  th  s  t,me,  ami  were  enabled  to  continue  their  vovaue  till 
on  the  oth  of  Au«„st,  they  ai-rived  at  the  .hoal-blocked  ,m.uth 
ot  a  st,ean,  winch  Franklin  na.ne.l  in  honor  of  his  faithful 
rriend  and  co,u])anion, 

BACK'S    RIVER. 

I^.ilii.j.;  to  ,,.e<.t  With  Eski.nos  f,.om  whon,  he  could  obtain  food, 
<rankl,n  aban<h,ned  th(^  idea  ..f  proceedino.  to  Itepnlse  liav 
lyin^  southeast  of  his  position  at  that  time  and  in  the  north- 
western pa, -t  of  TTu<lson's  Ray,  and  acco^linoly,  on  the  22d  of 
Auoust  he  beoau  the  .vturn  v<.yao-e.  They  had  t.-aee.l,  f,.o,u 
the  ,nouth  of  the  Coppermine  to  Point  Turnagain,  GOO  -reo- 


and  Avlien 
icy  at  once 

imos,  with 

334  miles, 
lio  liad  ac- 
liis  ret II  I'll 
s  for  Eiij;- 
'  was  also 
ii«  at  Fort 

II  honor  of 
o  the  sea 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


with  ])ro- 
ard  upon 
ne<l  ('ape 
V  of  the 
he  si  rait 

Fortnn- 
wo  bears 
yaj^e  till, 
Ml  mouth 

faithful 


aiu  food, 
ilse  liay, 
le  nortli- 
10  22(1  of 
pd,  from 
(]00  <jfeo- 


ira 


pliical  mil(^s  of  sea  coast,  and  had  but 


provisions  left 


one  or  two  days' 


:";:::: ;;;;~ '"''"' " "-  "■-'  ™"'-'  '-^^  -"''---" 

of  a  ,lee,-  f  .mt  ha  W  m'nT   :     ^  llrr  "'^  i'"*""  ''""^' 

p-y,  the  p,.t,.id  .pi„.i  :„t  0  ■  ™^  ,,^;-  ;;;i't.""' 'rr "' 

'Hpe-,Ie.ro^^  a,  /r,  nHHr?":;"'  ™'"P'-""— '  ".v  the 

"■•,f '"-"«'"  «•-  both  h!l;:e  I  'we  r'  ;;:•';■;;«• ;,""; 


124 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


foi't,  onl.v  to  find  t\w\v  no  ^loposit  of  provisions,  no  trace  of 
lu<lians,  no  Ictlci-  fi-oni  Mv.  Wcnt/.ol  pcintinj;  ont  wlieiv  iiwy 
niiobt  bo  fonnd.  Fianidin  wiilcs:  "It  would  be  impossible  to 
describe  our  sensations  after  euteriuj-  this  miserable  abode 
and  discovering  how  we  liad  been  nej-lected.     The  whole  party 

SHED    TEARS, 

not  so  much  for  our  own  fate  as  f-v  that  of  our  friends  in  the 
rear,  whose  lives  depended  onti)  (,ui-  sending.-  immediate 

relief  from  this  place."  Lookinj;'  .  ,ut  tor  something;-  to  eat, 
they  found  several  deer  skins  that  had  been  thrown  away  dur- 
in^r  their  former  residence  there,  and  these,  with  some  bones 
picked  from  the  asli-heai),  and  trii)e-de-roche,  afforded  them  a 
most  miserable  subsistence). 

"^^'e  saw,"  says  Franklin,  "a  lierd  of  reindeer  sporting  on 
the  river,  about  a  half  milo  from  the  house;  they  remained 
there  a  h>ni>-  t.me,  but  none  of  the  ])aity  felt  thems<'dves  stronj.' 
enouo-h  to  o-o  after  them,  nor  was  there  one  of  us  who  could 
have  tired  a  <;un  without  restinj^-  it." 

Althouoh  Franklin,  with  a  few  miserable  comi)anions,  had 
arrived  at  the  fort,  he  had  b(HMi  ]>receded  there  by  the  j»allant 
Mr.  Back,  who,  leavinji'  a  note  for  Franklin  informing'  him 
of  his  intentions,  pushed  on  toward  the  first  tradin«>'  estab- 
lishm<'nt,  distant  about  180  miles,  hoi)in<»  thence  to  send  back 

SU<'C(»1'. 

It  was  while  talkin<>'  over  the  jjrosjiects  of  receiving;  this 
ussistance  that  Franklin  and  those  with  him  heard  A^)ices, 
which,  with  }.Teat  joy,  they  thou-ht  were  of  Indians  cominj 
to  their  relief.     Bitter  was  their  disappointment,  however, 
when,  instead,  the  emaciated  frames  of  Dr.  Kichardson  and 
Hepburn  pirsonted  themselves.    Of  course  thcv  were  gladly 
received,  and  the  single  jsartridge  which  the  self-sacrificing 
IIei)burn  had  shot  that  day  aud  brought  to  the  lumse  was 
generously  shared  with  Franklin  and  his  three  companions. 
The  v(»ices  of  all  were  noticed  to  be  very  sepulchral  in  tone, 
and  Dr.  Kichardson  requested  the  men  to  .spc.ak  nu  re  che(M'- 
fully,  and  he  tried  to  comfort  them  further  by  the  prospect 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


125 


(»f  Hepburn's  boinn-  ablo  to  kill  ji  cl 


liiid  fired  at  scveriil  near  tlie  I 


oor  on  the  morrow,  as  th 


'raver   lioolc   and    Testanieni    port 


lonse,  and  by  reading  from  tl 


ey 


le 


siluati(»n. 


ions   appi'ojniate  to   ihcii- 


M'  next  (la.v  tlie  Doetor  and  Ilcpb 


It  se\t'ral  deer,  bnt  wer( 


nnable  to  kill  anv  on 


urn  succeeded  in  tirin< 


unsteadiness  with  which  the.y  liehl  th 
i^reat  weakness. 


iH'count  of  the 
eir  ynns,  owini--  to  their 


J'<M»r  Mr.  I1<„mI,  it  will  be  noticed. 


I'oH  with  Dr.  Kichardson,  with  wl 


did  not 


arrive  at  th 


I  lie  Doctor  had  volunteered  t 
while  Franklin  pushed  on. 


'oui,  it  will  be  remembered 


<)  remain  on  account  of  his  ill 


ness. 


.\fter  Franklin  had  bidden  them  f; 


bed  and  remained  under  t 


ill!  the  next  d 


lieir  blankets  dur 


irewell,  they  went  to 


jy.     Here  tliev 


iu<;  a  snow  storm 


eomforted  each  other  read 


'<»ui  a  small  collecti<»n  (»f  reli-ions  bo(,ks  that  had  bee 
sented  to  the  party  while  in   L.mdcm,  b 


111! 


n  pre 


(liouji'tful  ladv.    "We  read  " 
.f  th 


,  l)y  a  very  kind  and 
say;^  the  ^ood  Doctor,  "portions 


em  to  eaih  other  as  we  lay  in  bed,  in  addition  fu  the 
nicrnino-  and  evenino.  service,  ami  found  that  thev  inspired 
us  on  each  ,.<.rusal  with  so  strono-  a  sense  of  the  omiiipresence 


of  a  beneficent  (Jod  that 


ai)peared  no  lonoer  destitute 
calmness  but  with  cheerful 
confidence  the  past  events  of  our  1 


our  situation,  even  in  th 


ese  Avilds, 


and  Ave  conversed  not  only  Avith 
iK'ss,  detailino'  with  unrestrained 


iio 


|)e  on  our  future  i)i'os])ect} 


ives,  and  dwellinj-  with 


l^ess  than  a  week  aft(U'wards  these  tw 


o  men  were  joined 
s  was  on  October  0th.     lie 


by  Michel,  the  Iroipiois  j^uide.    Th 

was  absent  durinj.'  the  lOth  and  11th 

ate  on  th(.  nth.     It  is  now  believed  that  he  had 


killed  two  of  the  Canad 


not  apiin  appearinj^'  till 
previonslv 


lie 


lans  who  had  been  with  h 


iiijicr  and  the  j-enerous  Terrault,  who 


ward  seen  alive 
V 


im,  viz. 
were  never  after 


pen  overtakino-  Kid.ardson  and   Hood  on  the  lUh    h 
plained  that  he  had  brouoht  v.ith  1 


which  he  had  found  dead,  1 
of  a  deer's  horn. 
9 


nm  a  portion  of  a  wolf 
lavino-  been  killed  by  the  thrust 


126 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


"We  i!nj)H(itly  lu'lievt^d  his  story  then,"  says  Dr.  Uivh- 
ardsou,  "but  aftorward  became  aware — from  circumstauceH, 
the  details  of  which  may  be  spared — that  it  must  have  beeu 
a  portion  of  the 

BODY   OP   BELANGER 

OP  Perranlt.  A  question  of  moment  here  presents  itself,  name- 
ly, whether  he  actually  murdered  these  men,  or  either  of  them, 
or  whether  he  found  the  bodies  in  the  snow.  Captain  Frank- 
lin, who  is  the  best  able  to  judge  of  this  matter,  from  knowing 
their  situation  when  he  parted  from  them,  suggested  the  for- 
mer idea,  and  that  both  these  men  had  been  sacrificed;  that 
Michel,  having  already  destroyed  Belanger,  completed  his 
crime  bv  Perrault's  death,  in  order  to  screen  himself  from 
detection." 

Various  circumstances  ])ointed  irresistibly  to  this  conclu- 
sion, and  after-occurrences  would  seem  to  confirm  the  suspi- 
cion as  being  true. 

Toward  Messrs.  Kichardson,  Hood,  and  Hepburn,  Michel 
behaved  in  a  very  surly,  overbearing  and  iudei)endent  manner, 
refusing  either  to  cut  wood  or  to  hunt.  In  one  of  his  angry 
moods  he  replied  to  Mr.  Hood's  request  that  he  hunt,  that 
there  were  no  animals,  and  that  they  had  better  kill  and  eat 
him. 

During  these  dark  hours,  the  men  endeavoring  to  be  as 
cheerful  as  possible,  and,  realizing  that  as  their  bodies  and 
minds  decayed,  incapacitating  them  to  contemplate  the  hor- 
rors that  sui'rounded  them,  they  were  calm  and  resigned  to 
their  fate.  The  Doctor  continues:  "Not  a  murmur  escaped 
us,  and  we  were  punctual  and  fervent  in  our  addresses  to  the 
Supreme  Being." 

At  last,  <m  the  20th,  while  Michel  was  alone  in  the  tent 
with  Mr.  Hood,  the  report  of  a  gun  was  heard,  whereupon  the 
Doctor  and  Hepburn  rushing  in  found 

POOR    MR.    HOOD    DEAD, 

having  been  shot  through  the  back  of  the  head,  the  charge 
coming  out  through  the  forehead.    Michel  persisted  that  Flood 


le  char go 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  ]27 

had  himself  comniitted  the  terrible  deed,  but  this,  both  the 
Doctor  and  Hepburn  knew  to  be  impossible.     Moreover   the 
^un  had  been  api)lied  so  close  to  the  back  of  the  head  as  to 
scorch  the  part  of  his  cap  over  that  portion  of  the  wound 
Stdl,  neither  the  Doi-tor  nor  Hepburn  dared  to  declare  their 
suspicions,  and  decided  to  push  fonvard  to  the  fort  with  all 
possible  haste.    To  this  Michel  objected,  endeavoring  to  per- 
suade  them  to  jr,,  s(uithward  to  the  woods,  where  he  said  that 
he  would  maintain  hin.self  during,  the  winter  killing  deer 
he  rest  of  the  narrative  is  best  told  in  the  lan^uaj^c^of  Dr.' 
Kichardson:  ^     *^ 

"In  consequence  of  this  behavior,  and  the  expressi(,n  of  his 
countenance,  I  requested  him  to  leave  us,  and  to  j,o  to  the 
southward  by  himself.    This  proposal  increased  his  ill-nature- 
he  threw  out  some  obscure  hints  of  freeinjv  himself  from  all 
restraint  on   the  morrow,  aud   I  overheard   him   muttering 
hreats  against  Hepburn,  whom  he  openly  accused  of  havino- 
told  stories  against  him.    He  also,  for  the  first  times  assume.^ 
such  a  tone  of  superiority  in  addressing  me,  a«  evinced  that 
he  considered  us  to  be  completely  in  his  power;  and  he  cave 
vent  to  several  expressions  of  hatred  toward  the  white  p(M^pl(> 
some  of  whom,  he  said,  had  killed  and  eaten  his  uncle  and' 
wo  of  IIS  relatives.    In  short,  taking  every  circumstance  (»f 
lis  c(mduct  into  consideration,  I  came  to  ^he  conclusi(,n  that 
he  would  attempt  to  destroy  us  on  the  first  opportunitv  that 
offered,  and  that  he  had  hitherto  abstained  from  doing  s.) 
from  his  ignorance  of  his  way  to  the  fort,  but  that  he  would 
never  suffer  us  to  go  thither  in  company  with  him.    Hepburn 
and  I  were  not  in  a  condition  to  resist  even  an  open  attack 
nor  could  we  by  any  device  escape  from  him-our  united 
.strength  was  far  inferior  to  his-and,  besides  his  gun,  he  was 
arniea  with  two  pistols,  an  Indian  bayonet  and  a  knife. 

''In  the  afternoon,  coming  to  a  rock  on  which  there  was 
some  tripe-de-roche,  he  halted,  and  said  he  would  -ather  it 
while  we  went  on,  and  that  he  would  soon  overtake  us. 

"Hepburn  and  T  were  now  left  tog(>th(^r  for  the  first  time 
suice  Mr.  Hood's  death,  and  he  acquainted  me  with  several 


! 


;i 


128 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   'I'lHi:    NORTH    POLE; 


S 


iiijitcrial   cii-oniisliinccs   wliicli   lie   litnl   obsci-vcd   ctl"  Mitlid' 


Im>I 


liivioi',  and  wliicli  coiilii'iiuMl  iiic  in  tliu  opinion  diat  II 


ICl'C 


Avas  no  salcly  foi-  ns  except  in  his  ileal li,  and  he  olTered  to  h 


th 


e  UKstrninent  <(f  it.     I  (h'leiniined,  ho\vev(>i-,  as  I  was  t 


noi- 


on«;hlv  ronvinced  ol'  the  necessity  of  snch  a  dreadlnl  acl,  h. 
take  the  winde  responsibilily  upon  myself;  and  immediately 
upon  Michel's  coniinj;  np,  1  put  an 


END    TO    HIS    LH^^E 


by  shoolin*;  him  tlii-oniih  th<>  head  witi 


own  life  been  Ihreatened   I  would  noi   I 


1  my  i)istol.     Had  niv 


lave  purchased  il   bv 


such  a    nu'asui'e,  but   I   considered   myself  as  enlinsted  jil 
wilh  I  he  i.rotection  of  Hepburn's,  a  man  who,  by  his  1 
altenlion  ami  devotedness,  had  so  endeared   himself  I 
thai  r  felt  more  anxiety  for  his  safety  than  for  mv  own. 


so 


unnanc 


o  nic 


'Michel  had  «>athered  no  tripe-de-roche,  an<l  it 


was  evi<leiit 


to  ns  that  he  had  hailed  f(»r  the  pnrijos*.  of  i»nttin«;  his  oi,„ 
in  (trder  wilh  the  inteiHion  of  allaci 
e  were  in  the  act  of  encamping." 


^^ 


aHio'  us--perliaps  while 


(Vmtinnin^'  wearily  onward,  Dr.  IMchard 


son  aiid  llepbiini 


at  last  reached  I'\»rt  EiHcrjjrise  on  I  he  LMUh  of  Octobei-,  wl 
as  we  have  alrea.dy  stated,  they  found  Frankl 
ton-like  companions. 

On  the  1st  of  November  t 


leic 


iu  and  his  skel 


('- 


and  Peltier,  died  of  exhaustion.    On  the  7tl 
meat   and    fat    arrived    from    old    A-kai-tcl 


wo  of  the  Canadians,  Samandic 


whence  P>ack  ha<l  des])atched  three  Indiai 
Indians  luu-sed  and  al tended  them  with  ti 
lected  fnel,  cleansed  the  house,  and  <lid 
power   to    render    them    more    c( 
arrived,  an<l  before  (Miristmas  th 


I  supplies  of  dried 
lo's   encami)m<'iu. 


IS  on  the  nth.  Tliesv' 
ic  <>reatest  care,  col- 
everythinji'  iu  their 


)Uiforlable.     Other   sni)pl 


ics 


e  survivcu-s  ol  the  i>arty  wen 


once  more  at  Fort  ('hii)ewyan,  where  they  remained  until  J 
of  the  followin*''  year,  1S22. 


uiic 


It  will  b<'  remembered  that  ^[r.  Rack  ha<l 


lin  to  Fort  Enterprise,  and  had 


preceded  Frank 


aid.     Of  his  terrible  jonrney  we  will  uivc  luil 


I'one  on  tin  nee  in  search  of 


wo.     On   the  17th   of  October,   I 


an  inci<1ent  oi' 


U'  and   one   <()mnani( 


panion,  Si 


of  Mi«-li('l's 
tliat  llicrc 
ITcrcd  to  he 
I  was  thoi' 

lli'lll   iU-t,    Id 

miicdlatclv 


.  Had  u\\ 
last'd  i(  l»v 
'listed  jilsu 
lis  luiiuaiic 
self  t(»  iiic 
r  own, 
•as  ('violent 
i^'  liis  oil II 
laps  wliilc 

I  llcpbiini 
KM',  wlicic, 
I  his  skclc- 

Saniaiidic 
's  of  dried 
'ain])in<Mii, 
)lli.  Thcsv' 
t  cai'c,  col- 
^'  in  tiu'ir 
•  sn]>iili('s 
ai'tv  wci'c 
mtil  June 

pd  Frank- 
S(^arcli  of 
icident  <>i' 
inion,  Si. 


1 

p  ''  11  lyfl 

1 

i 

ii 

3     ' 

It 

,    W 

'< 

HI 
. '  1 

.1  t 


'r$\ 


1'  ' 


iti 


-Hifi 


iri 


ij'j 


i. 


am^-' 


OH.    LIFE    IN   THE   oitEAT    wmTE    WOULD. 


129 


(Icnnaiii,  scoiii^r  soino  crows 
M(M's,  Jii,|m,.,|  (|,„(  ,.jiii-i(.ii  ,vas 


l''»llll(|   tllf  licjuls  of 


pci'diod  hij-h  upon  Home  piiu 
in  the  vicinity,  jind  u)»oii  .scanh 


>Miric(l  in  the  i 


several  (I<'cr,  williouf  c\ 


c.\claiin<'(l  botli  nici 


<•«'  and  snow.    "()1 


«'s  or  tononcs,  half- 


I,  iMcrciful  (Jod,  wc  ai 


('  saved 


kuowinj-  wlial  liicy  did  <.r  said,  U 


'  invohinfaril.v,  as  (l»ey  slio.dv  liandi 


not 


,  lor  ver.v  joy 


Amdher  conii.aidon,  Heanparianl.  I 


(loni  exlreine  weai<ness,  wa 
><l.  (lerniain  to  hrinu'  1 


frozen  to  deatli. 


',  lia\in;;  liii'-crcd  beliind 
s  now  tiiou-iit  of,  and  Hac  !<  sent 

»w  was  found 


«•  liiin   up,     Tlie  jioor  f(dl< 


Thai  nif^ht  was  a  sleep|( 


pains  of  having  eaten,  we  sullered  tl 


ss  one.     Says  Hack:    "From  th( 


le  most 


EXCRUriATING    TORMENTS 


fliouj^h  I,  in  particuhir,  did  not  eat 


liMve  salislicd  nn-;  it    nnoht  hav(>  been  f 


•  <inarter  (.f  what  would 


'I'lJiiitity  of  raw  or  frozen  sinews  of  the  I 


I'oni   having  eaten 


neither  of  us  could  avoid  d 
On  the  next  dav,  Sol 


with  a  note  to  Franklin,  returned 


<'j;s  of  deer,  which 
oinj>,  so  j.reat  was  our  huii.i.er." 

>een  sent 


,  Solomon   I?elaii-er,  who  had   I 


ol 


I  (Tail 


,  i«'p<»>'fin«' the  dreadful  stat 


s  at    Fort   Enterprise,  Mhereujxm   Macl 


nelanoci'  and  St.  (Jern 
assistance.     Thev,  how 


"I'^ed   l)otli 


iJim  to  advance  sjxvdily  with  him  for 
over,  stiihhornly  [)ersisted  in  huterino 

1,  at  which  time 


jd»out  the  remnants  of  the  deer  till  the  .'{OH 

•iK'.v  s,.t  out   aoain,  and,  comin-  up<m  the  track  <.f  Ind 


oil  the.Sd  of  Xovemher,  w<'i 
l<ho  and  his  followers,  wl 


lans 


'e  s( 


hy  the  three  Indian  couriei 

Thus  was  bronj>ht  to  a  close  tl 


)on  in  the  encaniimicnt  of  A-kai- 
,  whence  supplies  were  sent  \o  Franklin 


linaiid  his  courajireous  coiiipani 


10  oroat  sufferlims  of  Frank- 


.venrs,  duriiin.  which  time  thev  had 


ons.    After  an  absence  cl'  tin 


vo 


VmO  niih>s,  they  arrived,  in  Julv    1S22 


iK'complislKM^  a  journev  of 


Fact 


ory, 
di 


\or 


on<e  more  at  Vork 


was   this   Mivat   and    important    undertaK 


I'-oinplished  without  a  Urn.  reliance  ni;,n  the  .„i;i;;,;;';;;;"|j 
"I  i>  Hivine  Providence. 


J 


130 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


CHAPTEK  VII. 

RUSSIAN  EXPEDITIONS.— WRANGELL'S  GREAT  JOUR- 
NEYS   IN   SIBERIA 

Following  the  eff<»rts  of  the  Laptjeff  cousins  in  delineating 
a  large  pait  of  the  Arctic  ^'oast  according  to  Bering's  plans, 


SCHALAROPF. 

a  merchant  of  Ya-kutsk,  in  ITaS,  sailed  from  the  Y'ana  river 
in  a  ship  built  at  his  own  expense,  and  succeeded  in  advancin" 
farther  eastward  than  had  Dmitri  Lai)tjeff,  viz.,  beyond  the 
Raranoff  Kocks,  but  short  of  Cape  Chelagskoi.  Making  a  sec- 
ond attempt,  again  he  failed.  In  his  third  effort,  in  17(>0,  the 
crew  refus(Ml  to  support  him.     Thrive  yeai's  later, 

SERGEANT    AN-DRE-JEFP, 

a  Cossack,  who  had  been  on  the  Indigirka,  and  had  driven 
over  the  ice  to  and  from  the  Bear  Islands,  reported  that  he 
had  discovered  in  the  estuary  of  the  Kolyma,  a  group  of  inhab- 
ited islands,  with  the  remains  of  a  fort,  and  traces  of  a  former 
large  population.    The  next  year, 

SCHALAROFF 

for  the  fourth  time  endeavored  in  vain  to  double  Cape  Chel- 
agskoi.  On  this  journey  he  lost  his  life.  Of  him,  says  Wraii- 
gell,  whose  work  in  the  same  region  we  are  about  to  consider, 
''His  unfortunate  death  (from  starvation,  it  is  said)  is  the  more 
to  ho  lamented  as  he  sacrificed  his  prop<'rty  and  life  to  a  dis 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  131 

interested  aim,  and  united  intelligence  and  energy  in  a  remark- 
able degree."    In  this  same  year  "ctiemaru 

ADMIRAL    CHIT-CHA-GOFF 

made  a  fruitless  attempt  to  sail  round  the  Spitzbergen  c^roup 
r  t:;^!i^  ^-^"^  -'  ^'"-^--  -^veyed  tli^eo:^ 
Meamvhile,  between  the  years  1745  and  17(58,  the  fur  trad- 
ers, m  their  commerce  with  (^hina  and  Japan,  lm<l  <liscove  ed 
the  islands  of  the  North  Pacific.    In  April,  1770, 

LIAKHOV,    OR    LACHOW, 

.a  merel.nut,  while  Katherinj.  a  ,„,•«„  „f  h,,i,  u-orv  in  the 
..  mty  ..f  Svatoi  Sos,  ,„.  iu„y  Cape,  observed  a  large  her,  „f 

remdeer  advancing  „ver  the  sea-i...  fron,  the  „„rth,  JndTi  re 
ore  eoneluded  that  the,y  „,„st  cn.e  f ,a„d.    .i"  h     bv 

the  track,  of  the  nU^ratino.  anin.als  l.iakh„v  jcrneye    bv  1,m  ■ 
led  northward  till  at  ,lista„ees  of  fortv  a.  ,1  Hft,- two  „  i  ; 

fnm.  the  Cape  he  .liscovered  the  two  «ou,her„,uos;  of  ih ' 

NEW    SIBERIAN    ISLANDS 

moIh'TiVv,':''  ?"'"  "•""•"■'•/""■>■  "<"  '"  fl-  ivorv  of  the  n,an>. 

',  •  ."'•;  "«  been  rewarde,!  for  his  discovery  bv  (V-irin-, 

a   ..■.■me  U   wit,,  the  ..,,„«„.,  right  to  co,le,:t  ivo  y         t 

JOSEPH    BILLINGS, 

who  had  accompanied  Captain  C\)ok  in  i.i«  louf 

'1<>«-U  the  Kolv,„a  riyer  with  tw,  vessel      ,f:'''T'  ""'"'"' 

-.ward  a  short  distance  be.vond  „::„,;,  •'o;:"  oV;:';;':" 

fi„,,r         7  -'^-"'-^    'n  t>"»-  as  w(dl  as  in  sabscinent  onen- 

..     ,  he  n,.t«l  ,n  the  ser-ice  of  the  Knssinn  nav  •.      n  Ce 

;    '.  .n  con„nand  of  „  second  expedition  h,.  visit;,!  t he  aZ 

.n    islands    where   observing  the  oppression  of  the  natives 

•'.-  n<e  Rnss,a„  „nd  Cossaek  tra,l,.rs,  he  strove  to  anndiora    • 


I 


l'^'> 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


the  sad  condition  of  the  dofoiisoless  tribes  h\  govornmontal 
inter]M)sitlon.  In  August,  he  endeavored  to  survey  the  (Miook- 
chee  i)eninsuhi,  but,  owing  to  the  hostility  of  tlie  natives, 
engendered,  doubtless,  by  long  years  of  oi)i)ression  by  the  Cos- 
sack and  Russian  adventurers,  the  effort  was  abortive.  Says 
Saner,  the  historian  of  the  voyage:  "We  passed  three  villages, 
and  halted  at  a  fourth  for  the  night.  The  huts  were  dug  under 
grouuil,  covered  with  earth,  of  a  s(iuare  form,  with  a  lireplace 
in  (he  middle,  and  four  large  stones  nuuh'  the  hearth.  We 
were  obliged  to  treat  with  them  for  water,  and  for  fuel  to  boil 
our  food,  and  to  i)ay  for  It  immediatelv.  Observing  our  good 
nature  and  want  of  power,  they 

TOOK    A    LIKING    TO    THE    BUTTONS 

on  our  coats  and  cut  them  olT  without  ceremony.  The  men 
were  tall  and  stout,  and  the  warrior  had  his  legs  and  arms 
punctured.  The  women  were  well-uiade,  and  above  the  middle 
size;  healthy  in  appearance,  and  by  no  means  disagreeable 
in  their  i)ersons;  their  dress  was  a  doe's  skin  with  the  hair  on, 
and  one  garment  covered  their  limbs  and  the  whole  body. 
They  wore  tlu^ir  hair  parted,  and  in  two  plaits,  and  hanging 
over  each  shoulder,  their  jirms  and  face  being  neatly  punc- 
tured." 

THE    ARCHIPELAGO    OF    NEW    SIBERIA, 

dis<'overed  in  1S0(;  by  Sir-a-wat-sky,  and  explored  by  ITeden- 
strom  three  years  later,  lies  almost  due  north  from  the  moulli 
of  the  Yana,  a  sh(>rt  distance  east  of  the  Lena  delta,  between 
latitude  78°  and  70°  north,  and  longitude  135°  and  150°  easl. 
According  to  San-ni-kofi,  Avho  exidored  the  group  in  ISll,  "the 
whole  soil  of  the  first  of  the  Liakhov  Islands  a])pears  to  con- 
sist of  bones  and  tusks  of  nuimmals."  On  the  hills  of  Kot<dnoi, 
one  of  the  grouj),  he  found  the  skulls  and  other  b<mes  of 
horses,  bulTaloes,  oxen,  and  she(»p;  and  although  covered  witii 
snow  and  iee  and  not  ])roducing  even  a  living  shrub,  fossilized 
trees  were  found  in  numerous  localities,  roncerninii'  the  ceh'- 
brated"Wood  Hills"  of  those  islands,  Iledenstrom,  who  visited 
them  in  1811,  says:    "They  are  thirty  fathoms  high  (ISO  feel), 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  13;; 

and  consist  of  liomoulal  strata  of  samlstono,  alteriiatino.  with 
s  rata  o  bituuimous  beams  or  truuks  of  tm-s.  On  ascvndinn. 
llK'se  hills,  fossilized  ehairoaJ  is  everywhere  met  with,  covered 
apparently  ^ylth  ashes,  but  on  closer  examination  ihis  ash 
IS  also  found  to  be  a  petrification,  and  so  hard  that  it  ,an 
scarcely  be  scraped  off  with  a  knife.  On  the  summit  anctlu^r 
.nriosity  ,s  onn<l,  minudy,  a  h.no  ,ow  of  bean.s  resemblino 
<1.-  former,  but  fixed  per,,en<licularly  in  the  sandstone.  The 
ends,  whicn  i)r<>J<Ht  from  seven  to  ten  inches,  are  for  the  most 
1-, broken,  ^^m^^ 

.bke       Accordmo'  to  this  same  explorer  the  tusks  of  the  mam- 
n.oth  are  smaller  an.l  lighter  but  more  numerous  as  one  jour* 

S  lorifm    ""*';  '"  "'^'  •^''"^^'  '•"^"  wei,hin,'!,nly 
fiom  108  to  lU  pounds  avoir.lupois.     On  the  mainland  <  f 

.Siberia  they  we.,hed  from  three  to  four  times  as  much. 

10  these  lai'oer  animals  must  have  belonoed 

THE    FROZEN    MAMMOTH 

fcovoml  m  ]-«..  b.v  Sd„„na.-I,„in  «  T„„o„»ia„  ivorv  hunter. 
I  ns  ,Kc-,.r«.,l  near  I.ako  A.kou1.  F,nn-  ,(.„■«  lal,.;,  tl,.  ieo 
vlml,  c..,v,.|,,p,.,|  i,  „avi,.«  „K.It..,I  away,  th,.  ..aivass  HI  pm 
11.0  sum  ,, VI,,.,-,.  „»  w,.|l-p„.«.,.vc.,l  ,l,.»|,  am„.,l,.,l  ,„  „,,  /„  " 
a|n  wU,l  l„.a»,,s  „,„„  f,„.  a,  „.ast  thre,.  s,.as,.n».  ,„  lso/^.  ^^ 
n,.„-l,ott  ,-a,-,-„.,l  a«-a.v  au,l  »„I,I  thef-sks  f,„-  Unty  ,l„ll-„.,  'iV 
.>-;;■«  lat,...  M...  A„a„,.s  f„„„„  it  i,.  „  „„„nat,.,l,  i  ;„        i' 

" "■""■I't"'*!'  f"i'c.|<.n  a.„I  » „f  ,|„.  ,„ii.|„„„.,   ,yL 

"-Pl.;...     TI„.,.,..f,„„.H,„  .,f  tl„.  sidn  r,.„,„i„,.„,  a„       .,'„", 

-"..t.;i  ...r,„-(s  „f  „.„  ,„„„  „  ,,.„„„,  ,  ,,„  ,.;  ,„    V  ™  ;' 

It  «as  „f  a  ,ln,.]<  ..-ny  ,.„l,„.,  ,.,„,.,.„,  ,vitl,  sl„„-,,  ,.,„.|v  ,.,.,"; 

;v"»i,  i.:-»,;i..s  s„„„.  ,„a,.k  i,„i,.s  ,„.  ,,,i.s„,.s  f,.,„„  ,,„!;.: 

"     ,'f ""  '  '■'""'"■•  " "li"'  b,.,ly  ,.<.,„ai„i„o.  „,,»  talc,,  t„ 

""Mual  s„ck..ts.    In  .so..,  it  was  a  i„al,..    Its  chief  measure- 


*  11 


134 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


j 


iiients  were:  from  forehoad  to  eud  of  mutilated  tail,  sixteen 
feet  four  inches;  heij^ht  to  top  of  dorsal  spine,  nine  feet  four 
inches;  lenj»th  of  tusks  along  curvature,  nine  feet  six  inches. 

Although  the  New  Siberian  Islands  are  now  uninhabited, 
there  were  found  upon  them  traces  of  former  population. 
These  were  possibly  of  the  traditional  O-mo-ki  now  long  ago 
vanished  from  even  the  nminland,  and  of  vvdiom  legend  has 
it  that  "there  were  once  more  hearths  of  the  O-mo-ki  on  the 
shore  of  the  Kolyma  than  there  are  stars  in  the  clear  sky." 

Following  the  birth  of  the  New  Siberian  Islands  into  the 
scientific  and  commercial  worlds,  the 

RUSSIAN    ARCTIC    VOYAGE    OP    EXPLORATION 

uuder  Lieutenant  Otto  Von  Kot-ze-bue,son  of  the  great  German 
dramatist,  was  undertaken  in  1815.  This  was  owing  to  the 
public  spirit  and  scientific  zeal  of  Count  Nicholas  Ko-man-zoff, 
who  had  been  made  the  Kussian  Secretary  of  State  in  1807. 
The  talented  Count  selected  as  his  comi)anion  the  poet  and 
naturalist,  Chamisso,  and  the  physician  and  nati-ralist,  Esch- 
holtz. 

In  a  vessel  of  only  180  tons  burden  and  a  crew  of  twentv- 
two  men,  the  expedition  sailed  from  IMymouth,  England,  in 
October,  1815,  and,  after  rounding  Cape  Horn,  arrived  in  tlic 
Baj'  of  Avacha,  Kam-chat-ka,  on  the  17th  of  .'une,  181().  Ten 
days  later  they  landed  on  St.  Lawrence  Island.  Here  the  in- 
habitants, who  had  never  before  had  intercourse  with  Euro- 
peans, received  them  with  amusing  yet  seriously  meant  hos- 
pitality. Says  Kotzebue:  "So  long  as  the  naturalists  wan- 
dered about  the  hills  I  staid  with  my  acquaintances,  who, 
when  they  found  that  I  was  the  commander,  invited  me  into 
their  tents.  Here  a  dirty  skin  was  s])read  on  the  floor,  on 
Avhich  I  had  to  sit,  and  then  they  came  in,  one  after  the  other, 
embraced  me,  rubbed  their  noses  hard  against  mine,  and  fin- 
ished their  caresses  by  spitting  or  their  hands  and  then  strik- 
ing me  several  times  over  the  ..<'e.  Although  tlx'se  proofs 
of  friendship  gave  me  very  litlle  pleasure,  1  bore  all  pati(Mit!y; 
the  only  thing  I  did  to  lighten  their  caresses  somewhat,  was 


OR,    LIP^E    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


135 


to  distribute  tobacco  leaves.  Tliese  the  natives  received  with 
great  pleasure,  but  tlie.y  wished  iuiniediatelv  to  renew  their 
l)roofs  of  friendship.  Now  I  betook  myself  with  speed  to  knives, 
scissors,  and  beads,  and  by  distributing  some,  succeeded  in 
averting  a  new  attack. 

"But  a  still  greater  calamity  awaited,  when,  in  order  to 
refresh  me  bodily,  they  brought  forward  a  wooden  tray  with 
whale  blubber.  Nauseous  as  this  food  is  to  a  European  stom- 
ach, I  boldly  attacked  the  dish.  This,  along  with  n(Mv  presents 
which  I  distributed,  impressed  the  seal  on  the  friendly  rela- 
tions between  us.  After  the  imnil  our  hosts  made  arrange- 
ments for  dancing  and  singing,  which  was  accompanied  on  a 
little  tambourine."  The  Europeans  took  their  departure  two 
days  later,  whereupon  the  natives  killed  a  dog  in  plain  view 
of  them,  perhaps  as  a  parting  sacrifice. 

Having  passed  through  Bering  Strait,  the  expedition  ar- 
rived, on  August  1st,  within  a  broad  bav  beginning  in  lati- 
tii.le  06°  42;  longitude  1(54°  W  50".  It  received  the  name  of 
Kotzebue  Sound,  and  two  weeks  were  spent  in  surveying  it. 
To  an  island  and  a  bay  that  were  also  discovered  at  this 
time  were  applied  the  names  of  the  naturalists,  Chamisso  and 
Eschholtz,  respectively.     The  scientists  also  examined 

A    REMARKABLY    UNIQUE    ISLAND. 

of  about  100  feet  in  elevation  and  having  the  appearance  of 
a  chalk  cliff.  Uiwn  close  observation,  how<'ver,  it  Avas  found 
to  he  a  mass  of  ice  covered  with  a  hiyer  of  blue  clav  and  turf- 
earth  only  six  inches  thick,  but  covered  with  luxuriant  vege- 
tation. Speaking  of  this.  Professor  Nordenskiold  says:  "T*iie 
ice  must  have  been  several  hundred  thousand  years  old;  for 
on  its  being  melted  a  large  number  of  bones  and  tu^ks  of  the 
mammoth  appeared,  from  wliich  we  may  draw  the  c,;.iclusion 
that  the  ice  stratum  was  formed  during  the  period  in  which 
the  mammoth  lived  in  these  regions."  Its  latitude  was  ()t;° 
15'  .30". 

Leaving  Kotzebue  Sound  on  August  IHth,  the  expedition 
sailed  westward  and  beheld  the  Arctic  Ocean,  quite  free  from 


136 


THliJ    SEARCH    FOR   TUB    NORTH    POLE; 


ice  as  far  as  the  eye  could  mid.,  and  mioia  h-ivo  attained 
what  IS  now  known  as  Wrangcdl's  Laud  had  thej  but  pushed 
that  way.  Instead,  they  directed  their  course  southward  and 
homeward,  arriving'  in  Europe  in  1818. 
_  Prompted  by  the  results  of  the  explorations  of  Andrejetf  in 
1<G7,  and  of  Pschenizyu  and  Lledenstrom  in  the  exploration  of 
the  Bear  and  the  New  Siberian  Islands  from  1801)  to  1811,  the 
Russian  Naval  Department  resolved,  in  1820,  to  send  out  an 
expedition  under 

LIEUT.    FERDINAND    VON    WRANGELL. 

It  was  nuide  to  consist  of  two  divisions:   the  lirst,   under 
>Vrangell,  with  seven  companions,  was  directed  to  survey  the 
coast  eastward  from  the  Ko-ly-ma  as  far  as  rai>c  Schelajiskoi, 
and  thence  to  proci'cd  northward  to  ascertain  if  an  inhabited' 
country  existed  there,  as  had  been  asserted  by  the  (^hook- 
chees  and  others;  the  second,  under  Lieutenant  Anjou,  with 
two  companions,  was  to  proceed   northward   for  the  sanu 
purpose.    This  division  succeeded  in  surveving  the  New  Hiber 
ian  Islands,  but  failed  to  find  any  "inhabited  country  "    No 
reports  of  this  division  were  published,  owinj.-  to  the  ace'   ental 
burning  of  the  official  papers.    Of  the  celebrated  "Wood  Hill' 
of  New  Siberia,  Lieutenant  Anjou  says:    "Thev  form  a  steep 
declivity  twenty  fathoms  high,  extending  about  five  veist. 
(three  miles)  along  the  coast.    In  this  bank,  which  is  exposed 
to  the  sea,  beams  or  trunks  of  trees  are  found,  generally  in 
an  horizontal  position,  but  with  great  irregularitv,  fifty  or 
more  of  them  together,  the  largest  being  about  ten  inches  in 
diameter.    The  Avood  is  not  very  hard,  is  friable,  has  a  black 
color,  and  a  slight  gloss.    When  laid  on  the  fire  it  does  not 
burn  with  a  flame,  but  glimmers,  and  emits  a  resinous  odor." 
The  expedition  4eft  St.  Petersburg  April  4,  1820,  and  tn<v- 
eled  thence  via  Mf.sc.,w,  Irkutsk  and  Yakutsk,  to  its  bas(>  of 
operations  on  the  lower  Kolyma,  in  latitude  (;8°  82',  longitude 
100'  35'  east,  a  distance  of  (;,:]00  miles.    The  journey  was 

MADE    ON    HORSEBACK 

in  224  days,  thirty-six  of  which  were  spent  at  Irkutsk  and 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WCRLD.  13, 

fortymue  at  Yakulsk.    M.unj-HI  a..,l  two  eo,npani„„»  headed 

i..  cavalca<lc.  „f  tea  pack-l,,,,.™,  „f  whicU  o.dy  il„.  ft  ^  1'^ 

liisf  earned  drivers.  ' 

Between  Irkutsk-situate  only  a  short  distant,  froui  Lake 
Baikal-and  Yakutsk,  on  the  Upper  Lena,  tU.  travelers  .net 
some  1  akuts  and  Tuuguses,  of  Tartar  ori.^  '  ^ 

On  the  15th  of  October,  havino.  crossed  'the  Upper  Ym. 
they  „.et  Dr.  To-nms-chew-ski,  on  his  return  t<,  e     li'.'^n 
after  a  three  years'  sojourn  at  Nish-ni  Ko-lvnisk  ''•^"'" 

On  the22d  the  party  crossed  the  Indioii'-ka^t'  Sa-chi-versk 
an<I  tor  two  days  enjoyed  the  hospitality  of  the  ' 

VENERABLE    MISSIONARY, 

Fullier  Michel,  eighty-xeveu  yea^s  .,f  a,;..,  and  «h„  had  in  his  ' 

leUK  unssiouary  career  of  forty  years  bapti.e „1  ia  ,' ",  "j 

m  the  d;Ktrme,s  of  Christiaaity  15,000  Vaknts,  Tua C"  ,m 
la-ka-gires.  ""^"'Ms,  ana 

(V.ntinuing  thence  eastward,  Wrangell  crossed  the   Vlasei 
^rountains    which  separate  the  Indigirka  from  the  k;!-^" 
and  arrived  at  Sredne  Kolymsk  on  or  about  the  (;th  of  t^ 
1>^M       Hi  s  place  was  the  official  headquarters  of  the  reol<>„ 
an     IS  s.tua  ed  on  the  Kolynm,  quite  on  the  Arctic  Hrce 

tonai,.  the  Om-adou,  a  branch  of  the  Kolyn.a,  began.    Arriv- 

ng  upon  ,ts  banks  on  the  31st,  a  two  days'  sledge  journe  vvith 

0.S  brought  the  explorers  to  Nishni  Kolyn.sl^  where  t^^^ ' 

mug  winter  was  spent,  in  latitude  08°  32',  longitude  100°  35' 

l.e  town  was  founded  in  1044.     Its  inhabitants  were  of  n^-' 

|lmm  height,  and  strong  and  vigorous.    Uev.  the  river  remains 

..en  over  from  the  middle  o'f  September  till  the  f.dh>wing 

June,    here  being  only  three  months  .f  summer,  during  which 

Hiie  the  sun  ivmains  constantly  above  the  horizon  for  fiftv- 

n  ol^    ittle  heat  to  the  earth.    Then  it  may  be  gazed  upon  with 
tlH>  naked  eye  without  serious  inconvenience 

\\ith  the  inhabitants,  spring  begins  when  the  returning 
sun  is  first  seen  at  midday  just  above  the  southern  horizon^ 


138 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


I 


although  at  that  time  the  thermometer  is  at  —35°  Fahrenheit  at 
niftht.  Autumn  begins  with  the  first  freezing  of  the  river. 
In  June  the  tliermometer  sometimes  registers  72°,  but  before 
the  eh)se  of  July  it  sinlis  to  about  40°.  January  gives  a  tem- 
perature of  ()5°  below  zero,  thus  showing  a  range  of  137°  in 
live  months.  The  winters  are  foggy,  catarrh  and  ophthalmia 
resulting.  Scurvy  and  other  dangerous  diseases  are  rare;  upon 
the  wliole,  the  climate  is  not  unhealthful. 

On  March  3,  1821,  Wrangell  set  out  for  Cape  Schelagskoi, 
the  party  traversing  the  intervening  uninhabited  coast  witli 
nine  dog  sledges  and  drivers.  Occasionally  the  Kussian  hunt- 
ers descend  upon  it  to  the  Baranoff  liocks,  and  the  (liook- 
chees,  from  the  other  side,  to  the  Baranoff  Kiver.  The  inter- 
vening moss-covered  plains  were  inhabited  by  the  unsubdued 
C;hook-ch('es  with  their  vast  herds  of  reindeer. 

The  equipment  of  Wrangell's  party  consisted  of  the  follow- 
ing principal  articles:  Keindeer-skin  tent,  with  frame  of  ten 
poles  and  cooking  utensils;  a  bear-skin  apiece  to  lie  on;  double 
coverlet  of  reindeer  skin  for  each  pair;  fur  shirts;  fur  coats  of 
double  thickness;  fur-lined  boots;  fur  caps  and  glove«;  some 
changes  of  linen;  fire-arms;  two  chronometers;  a  seco-nds' 
watch;  sextant  and  artificial  horizon;  spirit  thermometer; 
three  azimuth  compasses,  one  having  a  prism;  two  telescopes 
and  a  measuring  line. 

On  the  5th  of  March  Su-char-noi  Island  was  reached  at 
the  mouth  of  the  east  branch  of  the  K(dyma,  in  latitude  69°  31',  , 
longitude  101°  44'.  On  the  next  morning  the  start  was  made 
for  Baranoff  Kocks,  twenty-four  miles  distant.  On  the  way, 
the  w(K)den  tower,  erected  by  Captain  Billings  in  1739,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Kolyma,  was  passed.  Arriving  at  the  hut  erected 
by  the  same  officer,  it  was  found  in  a  good  state  of  preserva- 
tion, but  filled  with  snow  and  ice.  The  roof  was  accordinyly 
removed  and  the  hut  cleared  in  half  an  hour.  It  was  foilnil 
to  be  large  enough  for  but  four  men,  and  the  other  seven 
slept  without,  in  the  tent.  On  the  7th,  having  traveled  about 
twenty-five  miles,  the  Greater  BaranoflF  Rock  was  reached. 
The  temperature  at  noon  was  — 20°F.  These  rocks  had  the  sip- 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.       ^  139 

poarame  »f  c.lu.sa.  Hg,,,.™  „f  men,  boasts,  aid  tl„.  num  „f 
^a.st  buil,l„iK„.    On  (Ik.  next  ,lav,  hvcnlv  miles  f„.  1 ,7 
"  'lepot  ..f  |,r„visi„ns  f,„-  ||„.  ,■,.(;,,,  ti-i,,  u- ,!    ,    V  ""' 

*-u..u,  an..  „ve..  i,  a,  a  sh„rt  ms;::';; ,    :i;;;;:  ^ 

.™  cU...  passed  ,vUI,  ...eater  ease.     ,n  ti.e  aften,,        ,f      e 

l.ith  they  came  „p„„  several  t1,„ok.ei„.,.  hnts  <,f  lar.h  ,  r   t! 

-H«l  m  the  strait  separating  the  Saba.h.i  Islan.l  of  Sd  a  Ir    f 

r  an  the  .nau.iand.   This  was  in  h.titn.le  (I!)"  49",  h.ngitu  h-     8" 

"north  If  it"!;  '■'"*;'""  "-^' "« '"■• "« *"<'  -y-'  -"J  -I-i., 

n    ^r  I  "'r'"  '"■'•"■""'"«">'  "f  i«'-hnn,n,o,  k»,  whieh 

at  hrst  he  suppose,!  to  be  lan.l.    Wi,hi„  two  miles  1„;  r,H„... 
.m.od  Laptjers  «and  Cape,  longitn.le  l,,.-.     At     he  e       of 

it  t  I'r;-K"";'''  ".■;  *!"  '*"•  "■"  '"»*  "^■'">*  --  f"">H-d,  1 

.  xth  and  last  of  the  provision  sledges  was  sent  back,  Wran-ell 

btl,  the  northwest  point  of  Cape  Sehelagskoi  was  rea.-hed 
I.o-hu„,moeks  and  ieeborgs  wore  ovorjw here  visible.     K  vo 
.los  beyond  thoy  found  a  quantity  of  driftwoo.1,  „f  whieh 
II  .,•  bmit  a  rousing  flro  and  rofroshod  thom.selves.    Just  wes 
..then,  was  tho  bold  Sehelagskoi,  towering  to  a  height  of  .S.ono 
'  •     ?r    '""'  P"""  Wrangoll  and  ICosmiu,  leaving  oue 
^.•dgo  behind  to  await  their  return,  proc,.ede,    eastward    n 
o  der  to  test  the  theory  of  the  English  Admiral,  Buruey  wh 
ad   ■on,<.,.tured  that  a  .strait  e..ist,.d  between  the  nia  .  1  „ 
"f  Siberia  and  some  undiseoveroil  !an,l  e,.ten,lin..  fro       Cn 
S.  ...lagskoi  to  liering's  Strait.    Ten  luilos  from  thri       ,'  V  he 
d.tmle  was  found  to  bo  70°  3',  and  sovon  miles  farthe  Z  I  e 
ooast  was  soon  for  twenty-four  miles  trending  in  a  sm  t 
™s  e,y  ,i    e,i„n   therefore  oonfli.,iug  with  Burn  y-:       '«' 
-  farthest  point  seen  was  nan,e,l  Tape  Kosmin,  afti  Wra"  - 
"II »  .onipanion.    The  limit  roaehed  was  marked  bv  a  en. 
;;;<■;•  «1  on  a  hlU  m  latltudo  to-  V,  longitude  ,71"  47'     T  i" 
l'..d  travolod  at  an  average  rate  of  twenty  miles  a  .lav-in  aU 


rii 


140 


THR  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


241  miloa — sinco  l('nvin«j  Sucliarnoi  Lsland.    Th«»  day's  journoy 
was  j>('ii('i'ally  iradc  in  ciolif  hours. 

Tho  jilidinj.'  of  the  shMl^cs  was  greatly  facilitated  by  invert- 
ill};  tlic  sicdp's  at  iiij»iit  and  pourinj''  water  uj)()n  the  runners 
so  as  to  form  an  ice-roatinj;'  ujMm  them,  lliis  custom  doubt- 
less prevails  anion"  ajl  polar  hibes.  In  North  (ire<'nlan<l  the 
process  is  known  as  ki-o-lhock-t<)h-in<;',  and  is  performed  bv 
rubbin<;  upon  (he  ivcny-shod  sledj^c  runners  (piantities  of  semi- 
melted  snow,  (hawed  by  beino  lichl  in  (he  mouth.  The  writer 
has  observed  the  natives  to  use  also  the  warm  blood  of  re- 
(ently-killed  s<'als,  walruses,  or  reindeer. 

Having  erected  a  memorial  cross  at  CapeKosmin,  Wran^-'ell 
set  out  upon  the  return  on  (he  l!)tli,  and  encamped  at  noon  in 
latitude  ('.})"  44',  lon<»i(ude  170°  47',  j-ivini;-  to  the  name  of  a  cape 
seen  three  miles  in  a  southwesterly  <lirection  the  name  of  tiie 
midshiimian,  Ma-tinchkin,  who  had  been  sent  on  a  mission 
of  i)eace  ainon<>"  the  (Miook-chees. 

Crosain*,^  Cliaun  Bay  to  Sab-a-dei  Island  (m  the  next  day, 
the  party  reached  their  fourth  depot  of  provisions,  and  for- 
tunately, too,  for  th(\v  had  consumed  all  that  they  liad  taken 
with  them. 

I'lion  these  alone  (he  return  trip  was  made  to  the  Lower 
Kolyiiisk,  after  an  absence  of  twenty-two  days.  The  interven- 
ino'  dejjots  had  been  destroyed  by  wolverines  and  foxes,  and 
no  ]n'ovisions  had  been  left  at  Su-char-noi  Island,  as  Wranp'll 
had  ordered.  The  round  trip  of  (>47  miles  was  made  at  an  aver 
aj^^e  rate  of  tliirty-on(>  miles  a  day  for  twenty-one  days  actually 
consumed  in  travelinj;'. 

On  March  :ilst  Wranj-ell  was  rejoined  by  Ma-tinch-kin,  who 
had  l(»arned  from  the  (1iook-che«^s,  avIio.u  he  had  visite<l,  (li;it 
they  had  never  seen  or  heard  of  lan<l  farther  nortl  .  Thus  a.uain 
did  Burney's  theory  fail  of  su]  nort.  The  Thook-chees  had  also 
promised  to  aid  and  receive  in  a  friendly  manner  the  <'xp(Mli- 
tion  Avhenever  it  miolit  see  fit  to  visit  them. 

On  his  jfmrney  Ma-tinch-kin  left  Xishni  Kolymsk  on  tlio 
inth  of  March,  and  four  days  later  arrived  at  Fort  Os-trofl'-iioi, 
latitude  OS^  longitude  KH^  10'.    ilc  wis  accompanied  by  (Zap- 


OR.    LIFE    IN    T!IE    OREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  ui 

t.'ilnJohn  DiiiKlas  Cocliniiic  ((he  "IN'dcsti'ian  Tmvclm-"— then 
....  his  fai.H.ns  hip  n.uiMl  /he  n-,.rhl),  by  a  (\,Hsa.-k  scnant  ami 
ii  la-lvut  intcrpivtcr. 

On  the  (hi.v  followiiiir  Ma-tiiich-kin'H  arrival  at  the  fort  i 
caravan  of  Russian  merchants,  with  \2:>  pack-horses  h.adeil 
^vi<l>  eonnnclities  tor  tlie  annual  fail,  arrived  tliere  Tliese 
-ouds  e<»nsiste(l  of  tobaeeo,  beads,  hardware,  and  snuio..!,.,! 
iMIiiors,  t<»  be  exehano,.d  wit  li  tlie  natives  for  the  furs  of  anilnals 
l<ill<'<l  not  onl.v  in  those  re-ions  but  also  on  the  opposite  shores 
of  North  Anjeri<a,  the  Alaskans  receivi.in  in  relnrn  for  their 
iiit.Hesthe  tobacc  ,and  trinkets  obtained  fr..ni  the  llussiaus 

Dnruin-  fair  time,  the  fort  was  visited  not  onl.v  bv  the 
("Ii<.ok-chees,  but  also  by  the  Yu-ka-oi,,.s,  Tun-ou-sVs,  Choo- 
viin-chees,  Ko-riaks,  and  a  few  scattered  Russians,  comin..  from 
:i  radius  <.f  (lOO  miles. 

The  value  of  o^ods  exchanovd  annuall.v  was  estinuited  at 
•V1-><MMH),  the  Russians  makinj-  about  sixtv  per  cent  on  the 
cost  of  their  wares;  the  natives,  m)  per  cent.  But,  while  the 
K'lissians  were  absent  from  home  only  a  few  weeks,  th<'  various 
tiihes  were  often  several  months  on  the  road. 

Durino-  the  three  days  of  the  fair,  the  Russians  were  very 
noisy  ,u  their  manner  of  dealino-  whil,.  th<'  "barbarians,"  ou 
the  contrary,  maintained  <;reat  composure. 

At  this  time  Ala-tinch-kin  introduced  the  object  of  his  mis- 
sion to  the  chiefs  of  the  various  tribes,  explaining'  that  the 
im^hty  (>.ar  of  all  the  Russians  was  desirous  of  sendin-  shii)s, 
If  possible,  by  the  northern  sea.s,  to  brin-  to  (hem  wares  in 
fiK'iiter  abundance  and  at  less  cost  than  they  then  i)aid,  and 
also  that  he  wished  to  ascertain  whether  or  not  the  servants  of 
tlie  (^zar  could  rely  upon  a  friendly  reception  by  their  various 
P<'oi»l«*s.  Each  proposition  was  heartilv  assented  to  bv  the 
tribal  heads. 

<'liief  Leuth,  from  the  Ray  of  St.  Lawrence,  on  the  Pacific 
<oast,  received  Matinchkin  into  his  t(Mit,  wIkmi  the  six  nearly 
naked  female  inmates  decorated  themselves  with  colored  beails 
in  liiH  honor,  while  Afak-o-mol  invited  him  to  witness  a  sled-v 
race,  in  which  the  sledo^s  wore  drawn  bv  reind(«er.  The  tleet- 
10 


i 


ti 


.immjl>' 


143 


THR    HRARCir    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


lU'HH  of  il,o8o  animals  and  tho  dexterity  of  the  drivers  elicited 
the  applause  of  the  multitude.  The  prizes  awarded  swiv  a 
beaver  skin,  a  blue  fox  skin,  an<l  a  pair  of  walrus  tusks.  \ 
foot-raee  followed,  duriuj.  which,  over  a  course  of  nearly  nin.^ 
,  i"il<'s,  the  contestants  wore  their  usiuil  suits  of  heavv  fur  The 
populace,  iK.wever,  evinced  greater  likinj;  f,„-  the  reindeer 
races.  At  the  close  of  the  contests,  the  performers  and  si.ec- 
tators  were  l)ainque:ed  upon  boiled  reindeer  cut  into  pieces 
and  served  in  lar-e  w(»(mI  bowls,  distributed  arouml  over  the 
snow.     (Quietness  and  j^ood  order  prevailed. 

<)n  the  following  da.v  Ma-tin«h-kin's  visit  was  formallv  r..- 
paul  by  the  (1n»ok-chees,  to  the  ladi.'s  of  whom  he  luvsentcd 
i'<'<l,  white,  and  blue  beads,  with  candv  and  tea  for  refresh- 
nients.  The  Uulies,  however,  <lislikino'  the  tea,  partook  onlv 
<»f  the  .andy.  A  dance  followed,  in  which  feet  and  bodi*; 
wei'e  rionlly  niov(>d  back  and  forth,  the  hands  n.eanwhile  beat 
inj*  the  air. 

At  last,  three  conipetent  persons  performed  the  national 
<lanc(>  of  th(.  Chook-chees.  In  this,  ori,„aces,  contortions,  and 
,|nnij)inj.s  formed  the  principal  attraction,  till  the  artists  were 
<'<nnplctely  exhausted.  This  over,  etiquette  compelled  Ma- 
tinch-kin  to  present  to  each  of  the  three  perforn.ers  a  cuj)  of 
brandy  and  s(»me  tobacco.  The  -nests  then  took  their  depart- 
nre,  charging  tlu^  liussian  to  return  their  call  in  their  mxn 
country. 

The  chief  also  made'hini  a  formal  visit  of  friendship  to  oive 
renewcMl  assurance  of  their  desire  to  forward  the  proposed 
exploration  of  the  northern  sea.  Ma-tinch-kin  thereupon  re- 
turned to  Nishni  Kolymsk,  as  has  been  stated. 

Here  Dr.  Kyber,  the  remainino  of«cer  of  the  expedition, 
had  also  arrived  from  Irkutsk.  He,  however,  was  ill  and  an- 
able  to  take  part,  not  only  in  this  first  expedition,  but  also  in 
the  one  following,  which  we  now  turn  to  consider  as 

WRANGELL'S    SECOND   SLEDGE   JOURNEY. 

undertaken  less  than  two  weeks  after  the  return  from  the 
first  trip.    The  start  was  made  on  the  Tth  of  April,  and,  as 


OR.    LFKE    IN    TrrE    ORRAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


143 


■^^-  N  «•<  gVM  ,lnnv„  hy  two  hu.ulivd  forty  .lo-s  ^''' 

"li"  l.n,l  j,,i   ,      ,    ^,"v    "••'•'"^'■'"■k""'.  ^'   -li,.,.,!  „,.,«,.„„, 

lan...  iu  the  ice,  wt,.  tak,.„  alon"  '""''  '"'  ''""^'"^  """" 

,  Munui^}  rui<)u<.|i  the  courauc  of  mw  of  di-.  *-  i 

,  «"iit,iiu(it  i(>^    Ji),  and  naiiKMl  it  the 

FOUR-PILLAR    ISLAND. 

^:n;^:r^;;;i:;:fr;:;r::;^i:;™;:---r'"^ 

"•n("l.v-one  in  ciiruniforence    .....1  f..  i  I  '     ^"^  ^' ' ^  '"«'»  ««"<' 
\.     ,  "'"nnuiKe,  and  lashionci    sonn'uli.if  m. 

'";::;;  r':;.:,.';';';;;;r;  r ' : '•  •"■*  "^'" '"'■*  ^  ■'- 

tc(>n  <I,.siws  above  zero  "  *"  '^'""■• 

i ';;;  'tf "  *"-  »'«-"«■"»  "^sgod  hoavii,,.  „„  ,„..  .,»..„,,.,. 

.';'    i  ;;::r  ™;:""*.""""-  -"  •"■'"  ^"'^-  -"-i Vi,',. 

I.       inn.ty.    Here  a  sale  sprang  „p  „„,,  f,,,,,,,  „„,„  ,„ 


'Hi-  r 
I  J, 


» '?■  f 


144 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


luometer  rovSe  to  23°  Fahreiilieit.    Wlialcboiio  shoes  wci-o  then 
fastened  upon  the  runners  and  tlie  sU'dnes  lau  nioie  easily. 

On  the  14tli,  tliree  seals  were  seen,  but  ecaped  throu<«li 
hoh's  in  tlie  iee.  Several  of  the  provision  sledj-cs  had  Oeen  sent 
back  already,  and  now  three  more  were  desi)atehed  in  the 
same  <lirecti(Hi. 

On  Ihe  next  day  the  explorers  began  to  travel  by  night,  and 
left  cjini])  after  sunset.  They  soon  found  themselves,  however, 
in  a  deep  salt  moor  on  ice  only  live  inches  in  thickness  and 
so  rotten  as  to  be  easily  cut  through  wi(h  a  common  kiiilV. 
Two  miles  to  the  southeast  the  ice  became  smooth  and  sound, 
and  fourteen  inches  thick,  an<l  the  sea  twelve  fathoms  deep. 

l'lK)n  again  encami)ing,  the  night  wassi)ent  in  great  alarm; 
the  high  wind  so  agitated  the  open  water  somewhere  to  the 
north  as  to  cause  the  ice  to  vibrate  beneath  their  feet.  This 
was  in  longitude  UUi°  29'.  Four  miles  northward,  latitu<h' 
71°  43',  the  ice  was  found  to  be  so  greatly  tissured  and  so 
unstable  that  Wrangell  decided  to  go  no  fartluu*.  He  was  121 
miles  in  a  straight  line  from  the  Less(U'  Haranoff  Rock. 

Proceeding  now  in  a  southeasterly  direction,  the  travelers 
reaihed,  by  noon  of  the  17th,  a  large  ice-hill  in  the  vicinity  of 
latitude  71°  30',  longitude  1(13°  3<)'.  Here  were  deposited  sur- 
plus i)rovisions,  and  eight  of  the  sledges,  with  drivers,  sent  <»ii 
to  Xishni  Kolymsk  in  charge  of  Sergeant  Ke-clu-t-ni-kolT. 
There  now  remained,  including  He-resh-noi,  ten  ])ersons,  witli 
sledges  and  provisions  for  men  and  dogs  for  fourteen  <1ays. 
Still  advancing  over  the  now  greatly  tissured  ice,  they  rested 
and  religiously  observed  the  22d,  which  was 

EASTER    SUNDAY 

in  latitude  70°  40',  longitude  lO.r  (I',  in  sight  of  the  (Ireatcr 
Haranoff  Kock,  sixty  miies  distant.  Before  an  ice-block  alt.ir 
was  burnt  the  only  wax  taper  which  they  possessed.  IJe-icsli 
noi  read  the  prescribed  service,  while  the  Cossacks  and  driver; 
sang  the  customary  hymns.  Th<'  next  day  was  also  spent  in 
the  same  place  owing  to  the  temporary  ilfness  of  oii(»  of  the 
drivers.     The  time  was  employed  in  repairing  the  sledges,  I  lie 


The  "Fury,"  Aug.  25,  1825,     Hoppner. 
Eskimo  Weapons,  Implements,  etc. 

l.Si'i'  ClmpttT  X.) 


One  of  Dr.  Chamberlin's  Pets. 

(See  fmnv-  ("iS-ll.  ) 


M  ! 


*  1 « 


Mi 


*.y 


1 

JM 

Iff 

-  W^^*'  ^1  ^ 

(k'Jitli- 

peals ( 

Oil 

\  II UU'] 

roil  11(1 

ilicv  a: 
party  i 
Two  b( 
;i<'ll  fol 
wliilo, 
picxed 

IllCIlt,  s 
<'1'S,  AVll 

On 

Inhoi's 
vicinity 
liiiidcd 
sledges 
(lie  nor 
set  bla; 
tlic  LM, 

i'<'.yalod 
tii'oiip. 
and  als 
I'oiir-l'i 


Pr 


o\ 


Wv 


iniii 


\\U']V  OI 

II.'  had 

(loy 


or 


\Vi- 


Owii 

in<>(> 


iiiid  doj. 
Were  so 
An 


nil 


tnoeii  tl 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


145 


.Icath-liko  ^slillu.ss  of  the  day  beiny  relieved  by  the  thuudei- 


peals  of  crashiiij*-  ice 
On  the  2<)th  the 
Xiimerous  tracks  of  bca 

lonnd  it,  but  iiothiu-'  had  been  disturbed 
llie.v  auai 


.V  leached  the  deix.t  left  ou  the  ice-lii!|. 
rs  and  other  animals  were  seen  all 


On  the  next  dav 


n  rested  and  foun<l  the  latitude  to  be  71°  2.S'  \s  the 
party  slept  they  were  awakened  by  the  barkino  of  the  do...s 
hyo  Dears  were  in  the  can.,,  and  thes<.all  the  men  save  Wnne 
iii^U  followed  till  niornino,  but  without  capturing'  then.  Mean- 
while, a  third  bear  apj.eared  before  the  surprised  and  ..cr- 
l.l<'xed  leader  of  the  exp,Mliti<,n,  but,  after  eyeino^  hiu.  fo,-  a  n.o- 
ni<'ut,scami,ered  off  and  fell  \u  with  two  of  th<>  n-tu.-ni.,..  huut- 
cis,  who  Avounded  but  did  not  <aj)ture  it. 

On  the  2<)tl.  they  a-ain  rea.hed  the  scene  of  Iledenstn.n.'s 
labors  in  181(1,  in  latitude  71  2(;',  loni^itude  1(52°  27',  in  the 
vHu.ity  of  the  IJear  Islan<ls.  Travelino'  in  storm  and  darkness, 
.glided  by  con.pass  and  with  the  teams  tied  in  succession  to  the 
!^lt'(l,i;('S  preceding  them,  the  j.arty  reached,  ou  tl.<'  1st  of  Mav 
tiK-  north  side  <.f  Four-Pillar  Island.  Two  Hres  of  <lriftwo,Mi 
s<'t  blazino  so<m  revived  their  spirits,  an.l  on  tl.<>  morninj;  of 
the  2d,  the  '^ 

NOTES    OF    SOME    LINNETS 

royaled  then,  as  they  app.oached  the  second  island  of  the 

ii><mp.     On  the  r.th  they  exan.ined  the  .nost  wester.,  of  tl.es(. 

i'M.I  also  fou.,d  that  they  were  six  in  nun.ber,  i,.cl,nllno.  th<^ 

lM.iii'-I»il|j,r  Island. 

Provisions  runnino  low  and  the  season  belnj^-  far  advinccxl 

Un.ns-ell  now  proc(>eded  di.vct  to  Xisl.ni  Kolvmsk,  arrivin<' 
'<'>v  on  the  10th  of  May,  l.avi..o-  b(..,.  ab.sent  thirt  v-f„u,-  davC 
!<'  had  Journeyed  700  n.iles  without  serious  injurv  to  ...an" 

(loo-  or  provisions,  '  ' 

Owins'  to  the  s<-arcity  of  provisions  at  Xisln.i  Kolvmsk, 
^\n.noell  n.ade  special  effo.-ts  to  secu.v  supplies  for  hi.;  n.,M. 
"".1  doos  durino.  the  .season.  Fishiuo-  ,uu]  hu..linu-  parti<- 
^v<-';<'  sent  out;  Ma-tinch-kin  and  D,-.  Ky-ber  exph..-ed  the 
Aninj;  Tvosmin  ti-avrrsed  on  hor.seback  the  des(>rt  rcoiou  be- 
tween the  Chu-kot-chie  and  the  lu-di-gir-ka  rivers;  KeTchet-ni. 


146 


TPIE    SEARCH   FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


kofl'  oioctcd  a  small  dwelling  and  a  doiH)t  of  provisions  at  the 
mouth  of  the  (iroator  Bar-a-ni-cha  Kiver;  NL'-clio-i-osh-koll 
j^ave  special  attention  to  the  securing  of  fish,  while  Wrangcll 
occupied  a  portion  of  his  time  determining  some  positions  on 
the  river,  it  being  still  blocked  by  ice. 

^Vhile  in  the  middle  of  the  stream  on  the  27th  of  July,  his 
tent  took  fire  an<l  was  destroyed  before  he  could  reach  it,  bul 
fortunately  the  ])a]>ers  and  instruments  were  not  burned. 

A  little  later,  Wraugell,  through  the  advice  of  Dr.  Kybcr, 
spent  nearly  seven  weeks  among  the  Ya-kuts  living  farther 
south  along  the  Upper  Kolyma.  Here  the  repose  as  well  as 
the  kind  treatment  of  the  natives  greatly  invigorated  him  and 
he  \yas  relieved  of  his  rheumatism. 

About  the  middle  of  October  the  entire  party  were  again 
gathered  at  Nislini  Kolymsk,  where  they  spent  the  winter  of 
1S21-2. 

I<'our-fifths  of  the  dogs  used  by  the  expedition  having  per- 
ished of  an  epidemic  during  the  winter,  the  i)reparations  for 

WRANGELL'S    THIRD    SLEDGE    JOURNEY 

were  begun  under  very  discouraging  circumstances.  Only 
forty-tive  of  these  indispensable  animals  of  the  ninety-six  con- 
templated could  be  secured.  The  faithful  (\)ssacks,  however, 
owning  the  majority  of  the  surviving  dogs,  came  to  the  aid  of 
the  Russians,  and,  together  with  other  inhabitants,  fitted  cmt 
tw(Mity  skMlges,  each  with  twelve  dogs. 

At  length,  on  the  2(;th  of  March,  with  twenty-four  sledges, 
nineteen  of  which  were  burdened  with  provisions,  and  with 
nearly  three  hundred  dogs,  the  start  was  made  once  more 
from  Sucharnoi  Island.  Wrangell's  trusty  companions  were 
as  before— Ma-tinch-kin,  Kosmin  and  Xe-cho-roff-sky.  Dr. 
Kyber  again  very  reluctantly  remained  behind  owing  to  ill 
health. 

Eleven  days  later,  on  A])ril  fith,  the  expedition  arrived  iit 
a  point  about  ninety  miles  north,  near  latitude  71"  'MY,  and 
eighteen  miles  east  of  rai)e  Schelagskoi.  From  this  point,  de- 
l)ots  having  been  established,  the  last  of  the  provision  sledges 
were  sent  back. 


OR,    LIFE    IN-  THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  147 

After  tost  journeys  of  three  or  four  miles  toward  tbe  north 
and  northeast,  m  which  no  new  hmd  was  discovered,  the  ex- 
pedition again  started  nortli  on  the  12th.     Two  days  later 

EASTER    SUNDAY 

was  observed  as  a  day  of  rest,  the  bright,  mild  w(>ather  a(ldin<. 
to  the  enjoyment  of  the  occasion.  A  few  da  vs  later  three  mer? 
(.ne  of  them  a  sick  driver,  with  one  sledge  and  two  dog  teams' 
were  sent  back.  The  extra  sledgi^  thus  released  was  used  in 
repairing  the  others.  Wrangell  also  gave  to  the  three  men 
rcfurning  the  largest  tent. 

Pushing  on,  the  remaining  five  men,  with  three  sledges 
reached,  on  April  21st,  latitude  71°  52'— 8°  23'  east  of  'the 
(Jreater  Baranoff  Kocks,  and  near  the  limit  of  the  shore-ice  of 
Siberia.    Ma-tinch-kin,  however,  with  a  lightly  equii)pe<l  sledge 
advanced  six  miles  farther  north  till  lie  "beheld  the  icy  sea 
breaking  its  fetters;    enormous  fiehls  of  ice,  raised  by  the 
waves  into  an  aim  st  vertical  ])ositiou,  driven  against  each 
oilier  with  a  tremeu(l(uis  crash,  pressed  downward  by  the  force 
of  the  foaming  billows,  and  reapi)earing  on  the  surface,  cov- 
ered with  the  torn-up  green  nrud  wlii<li  everywhere  here  forms 
llie  bottom,  and  which  we  had  so  often  seen  on  the  high.^st 
hummocks.     On  his  return,  Mr.  Ma-tinch-kin  found  a  great 
part  of  the  track  he  had  passed  over  gone,  and  large  spaces 
which  he  had  just  traversed  now  covered  with  wat er."     lie  Avas 
absent  but  six  hours. 

Now  directing  their  course  to  the  west-northwest,  on  the 
24th  they  reached  hititude  72°  2'— 2°  50'  east  of  the  longitude  of 
the  (Jreater  Baranoff  Rocks.  This  was  the  nearest  land,  fnuu 
whicli  they  were  distant  151  miles  in  a  straight  line.  Here 
tliev  were  again  stopped  by  breaking  ice  and  open  water. 

The  4th  of  May  found  the  ])arty  forty-six  miles  from  (^ape 
Schelagskoi.  To  the  north  and  east  for  a  distance  of  twenty- 
nine  miles  the  sky  appeared  clear  and  the  hori/.on  open,  with 
no  land  in  sight.     Wrangell  therefore  concluded  that 

"THE    INHABITED    NORTH    COUNTRY" 

was  not  to  be  found  in  the  region  of  either  the  Cape  or  Baranoff 


148 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


Kock.  Setting  out,  thcrofore,  on  the  return,  To-cliotsk  was 
reached  on  tlie  Kith.  Here  were  met  Lieutenant  Aujou  and 
party  on  their  return  "to  the  Yana  Kiver,  from  the  New  Siberian 
Islands.  On  tlie  next  day  VVrangell's  party  reached  Nishni 
Kolymsk  after  an  absence  of  fifty-three  days  and  a  journey  ol 
IH'2  miles. 

The  ensuing  summer  months  were  spent  in 

EXPLORING    THE    TUNDRAS 

of  the  region,  Wrangell  making  a  trip  through  the  Hill  Tundrji 
and  Matinchkin  across  the  Eastern  Tundra. 

By  the  term  Tundras  is  meant  those  vast  mossy  flats  whicli 
border  the  Arctic  Ocean  not  <mly  along  the  Siberian  but  also 
the  European  shores.  Consisting  of  great  swampy  tracts  cov- 
ered in  part  with  a  thick  layer  of  bog  moss  and  in  part  with  a 
layer  of  dry 

SNOW-WHITE    REINDEER    MOSS, 

lichens  and  sin.»5!;;r  Arctic  vegetation,  they  are  inhabited  by 
hordes  of  aboriginal  nomads  with  their  packs  of  wolfish  <lo}>s 
and  immense  herds  of  reindeer.  Owing  to  the  soft  nature 
of  these  plains  great  portions  can  be  traversed  only  in  winl<'r, 
when  the  surface  is  frozen.  Their  northern  sections,  however, 
contain  a  covering  of  snow  throughout  the  year. 

In  the  plains  of  the  Lower  Kolyma  the  mosquitoes  are  so 
numerous  that  the  reindeer  are  driven  from  the  forests  and 
made  to  fall  victims  to  the  hunters,  who  drive  them  into  tlic 
river  with  dogs  and  then  spear  them. 

The  horses  of  the  natives  are  protected  from  the  attacks 
of  the  mosquitoes  by  means  of  dy-mo-ku-ries,  or  smoke  heaps. 

On  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  near  the  sea,  grass,  wild- 
thyme,  wormwood,  the  wild  rose,  and  even  the  forgetmeiiot 
aboun<l.  Of  fruits,  the  currant,  black  and  white  whoi'tleberrv, 
clou<l-berry  and  the  aromatic  dwarf  crimson  bramble  grow. 
These,  together  with  roots,  are  gathered  by  the  women  and 
children. 

Besides  the  reindeer,  there  are  also  found  in  the  upland 
forests,  the  elk,  black  bear,  fox,  sable,  gray  squirrel,  and,  in 
the  lowlands,  the  stone  fox  and  the  wolf. 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  14!) 

The  feathered  ti'ibe  is  rei)i'eseiited  by  j.reat  flocks  of  swans 
geese  and  ducks,  which  moult  and  nest  in  the  moss  deserts;  by 
eaj.U^s,  owls  and  gulls  along  the  sea  coast;  by  troops  of  ptarmi- 
gans in  tlie  bushes;  by  snipes  along  the  brooks  and  in  the 
morasses;  by  crows,  living  about  the  huts  of  the  inhabitants- 
by  (he  tinch,  the  early  visitor  of  the  spring,  and  bv  11.,.  t brush' 
a  hite  arrival  in  the  autumn.  '  ' 

Great  nun»bers  of  swans,  ducks  and  geese  are  cauoht  <iurin< 
the  moulting-season  by  means  of  teiined  dogs,  guus,  horse"' 
hair  m»oses,  arrows  and  sticks.     Some  of  these  wild  fowl  are 
cither  smoked  or  frozen  for  food  in  tiie  winter. 

In  the  si)ring  or  summer  the  streams  overflow,  and  then 
are  caught  (luantities  of  salmon,  trout,  sturgeon  and  other  va- 
rieties of  fish.  In  Sei  leniber  the  herrings  are  verv  numerous, 
as  many  as  3,000  being  taken  at  a  single  <lraught,  'and  in  three' 
or  four  days  40,000  by  a  single  good  net.  The  reindeer  and 
herring  seasons  are  times  of  great  rejoicing  amoag  the  in- 
habitants. 

In  tlie  winter  some  varieties  of  fish  are  caught  by  means 
of  horse-hair  iiels,  while  foxes,  wolves  and  other  wild  animals 
are  cajjtured  in  traps. 

The  native  dog  is  about  two  feet  seven  and  a  half  inchc^s 
high,  and  three  feet  three-fourths  of  an  inch  long.  Its  coal 
is  either  smooth  or  curly  and  of  a  black,  brown,  reddish-brown, 
or  wliite  color,  and  is  frecpienlly  spotted.  Its  bark  is  much' 
like  that  of  the  wolf.  Although  trained  when  nine  months 
of  age,  it  is  not  used  on  long  journeys  till  the  third  year.  It 
is  made  to  tow  the  boat  in  the  river  and  from  bank  to  bank 
at  the  master's  call. 

The  diet  of  the  natives  is  principally  fish 'and  reindeer  meat 
served  in  train-oil.  As  delicacies,  cakes  of  fish-roe  and  dried 
and  finely-ground  muksuns  are  eaten.  The  family  guest  is 
accorded  sniok<Ml  deer's  tongue,  melted  deer's  fat  and  frozen 
hnlter  served  on  a  table  covered  with  several  folds  of  an  old 
fishing  net.  His  napkin  is  sini])ly  a  thin,  rolled-up  shavini> 
of  vv'ood. 


m 

11 

^HUh         Wm 

Wn    ^ 

11   1 

Hi  1 

IP  1 1 1 

1^ 

'';  iJI 

i. 

ml 

'T  '■'  H  W 


{ 


150 


THB  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


The    holi<la.vs    are   observed    witli    oanies    aud    relisious 
services. 

<)u  tlie  1st  of  September,  when  on  the  return  to  Nishu 
K()ljnisk  from  the  Eastern  Tundra,  Ma-tineh-kin,  with  IJe-resh 
noi,  wlio  had  a(comi)anied  him,  struck  the  trail  of  the  (Miook 
chees,  who  were  en  route  to  the  annual  fair  at  Os-troff-noi. 
On  the  ;id  the  party  were  without  food  except  a  sinj'ie  duck 
which  had  been  killed  unknown  to  the  rest  of  the  party,  by  one 
of  the  Yakuts.  This  the  generous  fellow  secretly  offered  to 
Matinchkin,  saying:  "There,  take  and  eat  it  alone;  it  is  too 
little  to  do  o()od  to  all  of  us,  and  you  are  very  tired." 

Ma-tinch-kin,  however,  declined  the  offer  and  the  duck  was 
made  into  broth  and  served  as  a  ligia  repast  for  all. 

Trudging  on  oyer  snow-covered  hills  and  through  deeply- 
filled  ravines  for  three  days,  they  at  length,  on  the  5th,  placed 
Ji  net  in  a  stream,     (jreat  hunger  drove  Ma-tinch-kin  to  pro- 
pose the  killing  of  one  of  the  horses  for  food;  but  the  sugges- 
tion met  with  opposition  by  the  Yakuti!,  who  declared  that  in 
the  heated  state  of  the  animal's  blood  injury  would  result  to 
those  who  should  eat  of  it.     With  fear,  yet  with  hope,  the  net 
was  drawn  on  the  next  morning,  and  to  their  great  joy  three 
large  and  several  small  fishes  came  with  it.     On  the  same  day 
the  Auiuj  was  reached,  and  here  were  obtained  more  fish  than 
could  be  consumed.     A  surplus  of  5,000  was  deposited  for  tlu^ 
use  of  future  travelers.     Some  months  later  they  learned  with 
delight  that  thes<'  same  fish  were  found  by  a  party  of  dis- 
tressed wanderers,  who  were  thus  supplied  with  food  for  a 
month.     The  bread  which  Ma-tinch-kin's  party  had  thus  cast 
upon  the  water  returned  to  them  ere  many  days;  they  them- 
selves found  a  similar  deposit  of  Nothing,  which  was  much 
needed  in  the  daily  increasing  cold. 

Devoting  the  remainder  of  the  season  to  surveying  tlic 
country  from  the  Aniuj  to  Xishni  T<'olymsk,  a  distance  of  .'^00 
miles,  Ma-tinch-kin  finally  returned  to  Nishni  Kolymsk  fortlu' 
winter,  on  the  Cth  of  October.  He  had  been  absent  eighty-six 
days. 


1)11 


OR.    UF-E    m    TlfE    fiREAT    WIrTTE    WORLD  15, 

It  wax  on  II,..  l,„„  „f  Ma,-,.|,,  1«23,  Hu.l  ,l„.  s(a,-,  was  ,„a,l,. 

WRANGELL'S    FOURTH    AND    LAST    SLEDGE    JOURNEY. 

IlnviiiK  sonirod  (Iip  ,-„o|„.,,,ti„„  „f  ||„.  i„|, ,„,  ,„.  „„, 

^  ...a,  (  .■•.„ua  and  I„dio,,ka  riv,.,.,  ^V,.a„«,.ll  was  a     ■      , 

..,.|>  had  b«.n  |„,,v!„usLv  ,.,,.,,,„,  „„  t|„.  ,1,,,„„.,  „„,.."„.■:; 

."■ '"«  '""f  "'•.  "■'  t'"'  l-tK  n,a,l,.  ,l„.  1  sf„H  ,"         : 

.|o"".o.V  over  the  u-e  of  the  Polar  S™ d  i,.  Mn...  da 

nvcd  ,\t  Cape  Schc  auskoi.     Hen.  wi«  ,„..f  .,  i    •        ,    • 
cln.fofatnb,.ofCI,ook-,l,oes.  '.^"-"ad^a,.  or 

Once  satisfied  of  the  Wondlv  intentions  of  the  E,,,-,,,,,,,,,. 
tins  nonjad  r.de..  lik,.wise  evine..,!  a  spirit  of  ann.-a      i        ,     ,' 
afonned    1,0  explorers  (hat  the  ....«ion  of  ,l,o  capo  «     ', 

imt  prev,o,,slj-  her,,  dwelt  ti„.  Chodn.. 1  ,,,„.,;„.„  ,      ^V 

In. nan,esof  which  ,.ndn,-..  in. ■ap,...|„.h,,„|„i  „„„  ,,„„„;' 
but  who  Ions  a-o  n,if:i.afe,l  farther  west  ' 

(■  N„d .     1  here  ,s  a  part  of  the  coast  betw,.,.,,  n„.  ,■ s,  wl„.,',. 

f  on,  son,,,  cl.ffs  near  the  month  of  a  river  on..  ,„  ,d,     , ,    ', 
c  .ar  snn,n,cr  da.v,  ,l..s,.,,v  sn.,w...ovcre.l  n,on„,ai„s  at  ,   ..    .at 
.l.slnn,.e  t,,   he  north,  bat  that  it  was  i.npossibl..  to  .s....  so  f^ 
v".ter.'     II,.  also  .sai,l  that  1„.  11,„„,d„  ,hos,.  „„„„„„i,     , , 

If"  ^"""  '■^"■-i"'  '""""•.V.  to  whi.-h,  1„.  ha.l  l„.,„.,i  „i    ,  ; 

(l.er  sa.v,  a   ,.|,i,.f  of  his   tribe  had   on..  „,i«,,,„.,,   w 

l.or,le  ,„  boat.,,  bnt  what  l,n,l  b,.,.,M„,.  of  , ^  „.as  n    • . . 

aflerwa,.,ls   l,..a,.d.     II,.  had    l,in,s..lf  s,.cn    ,.,.i„, .,,,,,. 

"  I  alMlants  of  that  ,l,sfant ,n(r.v  th..  w.„„„|i „r  .,  „.,,.,. 

■  ;<  .  lun    be,.n  fonnd  s,ra„,l,.,l  ..„  „„  is,,,,,,,  o„'T,,  ■  S  ,.  '  I 
'  east,  „.,(|,  a  slat,.-,,oint..d  sp,.ar  still  in  i,s  bo.lv  '" 

„(.  ,1,'!!!T";,""""""''  •'"'""'"   """  ""■  '■'■'■"'"'■'■  "n'l  been 
ll.iek...    by  the  nativ,.s  of  (1,,.  .\l,.„(ia„  ,s|,„„,,   „,,,  ,,    ' 

known  to  nsP  .jnst  snch  sp,.a,-d,..ads  '  ^ 

l>r.,..e..dini,M.astwa,.d  fnnn  rape  Clndasjsk „  ,|,..  22.1  th.. 

I".ty  s.,.,n  arrived  at  Cape  Kosmin,  in  latitude  70'  1',  lon^^imic- 


i  < 

m 


152 


THK  SEARCH  FOR  THR  NORTH  POLE- 


171°  55',  the  const  thciu c  ciiHtward  boin.<i  irrcoul 
to  the  \\  .'I'kon,  ihe  west  liciidlaiKl  of  which  \V 


ill  honor  of  Di-.  Kyboi.     I( 

the  small  ishiiid  two  uiilos  north    he  applied  tl 

UivoW,  the  men  hunt  naviuator  \vh 


served,  perished  in  that  vieinitv  in  17( 


iH'  and  hillv 

I'aii'M'lI  named 

measured  1»S()  f(.(.t  in  h.'i<;ht.     To 

n'  name  of  Selia- 

o,  as  we  have  alr<'adv  oh 


»o. 


The  montli  of  the  Werkon  was  found  to  he  (d 


half  mih's  wi(h'.     About  three  miles  from  the  shore 
line  with  its  h)w  eastern  bank  a  dept)t  of  ju-ovi 


even  and  one 


and 


111 


lisl 
back 


led,  and,  oti  the25tli,  the  remaininj^eniid y  sled' 


sions  was  estab- 


;es  were  sent 


Diiriu'^  the  next  two  da 


ys,  only  thirteen  miles  wei 


■e  eovei'ed. 


owing  to  the  great  extent  (»f  ice-hnmmoeks.     Another  d*  . 
of  provisions  was  therefore  made  and  eight  more  of  the  sled 
were  desi)atehed  homeward. 

From  this  i)oint,  wliile  Ma-tineh-kin  was  ad 


posji 


it's 


vancing  east- 


ward along  the  coast  to.vard  the  North  Cape,  Wrangeil,  witli 
only  four  sledges  and  five  men,  journeyed  northward 


of  the  "undiscovered  .  orth  land.'" 


in  search 


On  the  20th  the  ice-tloe  upon  which  was  Wran-vlT 


partv 


became  sei)arate<l  from  the  main  ice-tield  in  a  storm,  but  will 
the  recurrence  of  better  weather  it  again  closed  up.     On  the 

en  miles 

northeast 

oward  the  north- 


.'Ust  the  party  advanced  only  six  miles  and  were  but  t 
from  the  coast.     Finding  the  wav  to  the  north  and 


blocked  by  huge  ice-liuuimo(  ks,  they  turned  t 
west  on  the  1st  of  April.  After  going  about  five  miles  tliev 
came  to  thin  new  ice.  Over  this  they  i>assed  at  full  sp< cd,  tli. 
swiftness  of  tlM»  teams  and  the  lightness  of  tli(»  sledges  not, 
however,  i)reventing  them  from  repeatedly  breaking  through, 
the  dogs  as  often  and  as  quickly  jerking  them  out  as  the  keen 
sense  of  danger  possessed  by  the  animals  incited  them  to  great- 
er speed.  Having  crossed  this  trad  of  thin  ice,  their  jHisition 
was  determinetl  to  be  in  latitude  70"  20',  and  lonuitude  174   V\' 


On  the  next  day,  the  od,  tliev  "covered  twentv  mil 


es. 


iiiiiin 


they  he<-ame  (h't ached  on  the  ice,  but  in  tl 


le  morning  succeeded 


in  reaching  the  main  l)ody  by  means  of  a  pontoon-bridge  of 
ire-blocks.     From  this  point  two  sledges  were  sent  back  to  the 


OR,    LIFE    ,N    THE    GUEAT    •^^H^TE    VVOHLD.  153 

;l«"l"".  ^vl.il,.  NVnu.ovii  ;H]vnnml  nnrdnvar,!  u-itl.  Il.o  rouv.uu- 

...Mlwo      ()nn.isMav,llu.MI,inhui.ud,.7(r5;inn.i,ndMT^^^ 
--,  ahou    s.xty  nnlos  from  h.ml,  an  oiM-n  rhannH,' nbonl  lim 
u.n  s  wKlo  and  ox«,>n.lino.  oast  ai..l  west  as  Car  as  the  cv  ioul. 
'V;Hl..    st(»pp<Ml     fartlior    proor.ss.       Savs    \Vrann,.|l:     "Uv 
|lnulK.a  om.  of  the  lofti.st  i.-o  l.ills,  alTonlino  an  .xln.siv,.  vi.w 
I.Avard  tlio  north,  and  fron.  .Iummc  wc  bH.Hd  the  wi<h.    in.- 
..M'iisnrabk.  (,<,.,»  spread  onl  iM-for,.  onr  o,,...     H  was  a  IVar- 
;"  'M.d  n.aomfi,.,,,  spcMtaH,,  thon^l.  (,.  „«  ,  nn-lanrholv  on,-. 
!•  n.jinuM.!s  ol  nv  of  .norn.ons  si/.,  u  ,mv  lloatino.  on  the  snrfa.v 
n(    be  ai..tal(.d  o.van,  and  wmv  dasluMi  h,    Lin.  wavs  with 
au-  nl  vmlon.o  ao-ainsl  |  he.  vd^^v  of  ( he  fichl  on  tin.  farl  h,.s(  si.h. 
of  1 10  channel  bcfor..  us.     These  eollisi<,n.s  were  so  tren.e.nh.ns 
tha    hu.«e  n.asses  w<.re  every  instant  broken  awn.v,  and  it  was 
c-vHient  thai  ,he  portion  <.f  iee  whieh  still  divi<led  the  channel 
from  the  open  se..  w(mM  soon  be  eompletelv  destrov.MJ       jl-.d 
w(' n.ado  the  attempt  t<,  f<.rry  onrs<.|v<-s   uross  np.m'on/.  of  tin. 
.Ictaehed  p,e.-es  of  ire  there  would  have  be<.n  no  tirn.  n.utin.. 
;"'  I'oaeh.no-  ,;„.  opposite  side.     Even  on  our  own  side  fresh 
lMn(>s  extended  then.selves  in  every  direction  in  th(.  field  behind 
us.     We  could  o()  no  farther." 

Settlno.  out  on  the  return,  they  arrived  .m  th(.  niohf  of  the 
-.11  at  the  seco,  d  depot  of  provsions,  tin.lin.o  it  and  the  two 
roUmuH]  sledovs  in  «-ood  <-<HHlition.  Three  davs  latfM-  thev  b,.- 
.■jm.e.^M.ah.l^o^^^^^ 

.I1.0U.  4.,t)feetwnle.     W  ranoell  thus  desci   I.es  their  peril- 

"I-^vory  mouHM.t  hu.oe  masses  of  i,..  Moa-  „o.  around  us' were 
|.s-n.^an,ste.ch  other  ami  l..oI<en  into  a  th^^^^^^^ 
•iients.     Meanwhile  we  were  tossed  to  and  fro  bv  tli(.  wr  ..s 
=.nd  o^azed,  i^    helpless  inactivity,  on  the  wild  eontlict  o^  .he 
H.Muents,  expect  in-  (-very  m(uu(.nt  to  be  swallowed  up      We 
-'.Ibeen  three  lon^  hours  in  (his  painful  position,  and  still 
<'...•  .sla.u    held  tooether,  when  sudden!     ir  was  caught  bv 
st.n-m  and  hurled  aj?ainst  a  Inr-e  field  of  i<e.     The '.rash  wis 
i.-mfic,  and  we  felt  the  mass  beneath  us  c^ivin.,.  wav,  and  sep' 
■nn  .n.  ,n  every  direction.     At  that  dreadful  nuunent,  wln'n 
'l<'struction  seemed  inevitable,  rlie  in.pulse  of  self-preservation 


154 


TIIIO    SKAHCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


imi'liHilcfl  ill  (.vciv  liviii-  Immho  siivcd  lis.  IiisliiHtivcI.v,  iinil 
Willi  I  he  (luirkiics.s  df  I  lionj^ht,  we  n|hjiiim  ,„i  llic  sl(-«|n<'s  aiid 
mjicd  I  he  duos  (,»  n,,.},.  uliiK.st  spcc.l.  Tliry  (lew  iicroNs  lli<> 
.vicliliii}.  fijif-iiKMils  (if  (lie  li(.|il  ji^jijiisl  wlii'cli  i(  had  I 
s»niiid«'d,  iiiid  safely  ivjicju'd  u  )kw{  of  i(  of  liniicr  ciiiinicl 
on  wliirli  were  si'vcral  liiiiiiiiMicks,  and  hen'  (lie  d 


K'CII 

«'i'. 


(lUS   IIIIIIKMJI- 


alciy  ceased  nniniiij«-,  appamdl.v  ediiscious  that  the  (hit 


was  passed. 


Nasi 


shoi 


eiiiiin  on  to  the  llist  depot,  th(>y  soon  mad 


iirer 


('  wav  ((» 


<'  and  camped  iindei-  a  ciilT  near  the  month  of  the  \V«'r|, 


lis  was  in  hititii<U>  (I!)' 51',  loni;ilii<le  17;>'  'M' 


on. 


iN'lille  the  other  members 


were  enjiaj-cd  in  hrinuinu  a 


i'xamiiKMl  and  named 


the  siiiijilies  left  at  tlie  depots,  Wraiij-cll 

('ap(>  Kerknr-noi,  in  latitude  (11)°  54',  lonj>itiide  17 nu 

of  the 


wav 


Soi 


lie 


jirovisions  left  at  the  second  depot  could  not  be  recovered 


owiii<>  to  the  breaking;'  up  of  the  ic( 

On  the  141  h  of  Ai»ril,  with  jirovisi 


<»ns  ninninjj;  low,  the 


party  started  eastward,  hopinj,^  to  meet  Ma-tiiichkin,  wl 


absent  in  the  tundra  east  of  the  Werkoii.     II 


lo  was 


miles  in  that  direction  without  nieetiiij;'  him,  they 


to  turn  auain  to  tli 


iviiio'  ^one  forty 
wer(»  obliiiiMJ 


e  west  and  make  for  the  provisions  cached 


at  the  (Ireater  IJa-raii-i-cha,  200  miles  distant.     Aft 
in^i  biitsix  miles  they  joyfully  met  Ma-tincli-1 
auceof  su])plies. 


or  travel- 
Ivin,  withanabund- 


This 


energetic  man  had,  in  the  nmrse  of  1 


a  hut  on  the  coast  east  of  the  Werl 


lis  journev,  found 


kon,  which  both  he  and 


Wranji-ell  concIiide<l  had  been  erected  by  Schal-a-ndT  in  17 


and  who  therefore  evidentl 
his  aiiibitio 


!>,)• 


\'  s 


ucceeded  in  the  <ireat  object  of 


'N  namely,  tli(>  donblino-  of  (^ip(»  (^helajyskoi. 

\t  this  ]M.inl,  hititndedJ)  4S',  lon-itude  17(5°  10',''a  depot 


established  and  eitfht  slediics  were  al 


was 


retained  for  Mat  inch-kin  and  four  for  \\ 


so  sent  back,  three  beinu' 


On  the  20th  Wranj 


ranuell. 


O0°42',lon'^tude^7(5°:?2',  wl 


party  reached  Tape  Yakan,  latil  iid( 


inii  to  somr  of  the  riio(dv-cli    >s,  w 
{i'ell,  howev«'r,  failed  td  see  it.     Tl 


lence  the  "north  countrv,"  accord- 


River  was  attained,  and 


as  sometimes  visible,     Wrj 
iree  miles  bevond,  the  Yak 


nil 


nine  miles  beyond  it,  the  part 


party  war 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


U,T, 


(•((IIIIK'llcd    to    luilt    |)v   I'CaiHoll    of  (I 


K'   WJiniilli   of   the  wcjillici' 


llHc  thcv  (.bMcnod  (Ik.  bones  of  „  uluMc  Miuk  npriohi,  ,,,1.1 


llicsc  the  Cliook-clu'CH  iiifoniicd  II 


KMii  were  the  I'ciiiaiii.s  of 


i('t<' 


(l\v«'llin<;' of  ii  small  tnljc  fonncil.v  residing  (|    _ 
Forty  miles  fail licr  cast,  in  latihide  (;i)'^2S'.  I 
14,  a  lot  of  di'iflwood,  most  I  v  of  fir  and 


a 


otiuihide  177' 


Meanwliile,  iMa-limli-kin  mad 


pine,  was  met  willi. 
cone  iiMd-e  sally  on  the  north. 


tiikinj.'  his  depai'lnie  on  the  L'lsl,  with  three  sledj-vs  and 


visions  for  fifteen  davs 

a. 

Ilaviiijn  crossed  Knv 


pro- 


<'-^jin  KMver,  Wraiijicirs  party  halted 


en  the  next  niorninj.  seven  and  a  half  miles  hev<md,  inl 


()!>'  12',  longitude  17!r  l-T.     Thirl 

iiloiif;-  the  eoast  and  in  a  direct  lin«'  a  litlle  south  (d 


inived  at    th,.  headland  di 
Cook,  iu  177S,  namely, 


!ililiid(> 
ceil  and  a  half  miles  farther 

<'ast,  they 


SCO 


vered  and   named   hy  Captain 


CAPE    NORTH. 
Mere  they  met  a  friendly  tribe  of  Chocdv-cl 


wes.  Its  chief,  l!:-tel, 
invited  Wran;;(dl  to  his  lent,  and  said:  "There,  lo(dv  well  at  all 
lliose  thinjus,  take  from  them  what  you  like,  and  oive  me  in 
return  a  j.;un,  and  jtowder  and  shot,  as  1  am  yery  fctnd  of  hiint- 
in.U',  and  am  sure  1  could  use  a  uun  better  than  the  mountain 
Chook-chees,  amon,i>'  whom  I  once  saw  one,  and  shot  with  it." 
An  exchanjic  was  accordingly  ellected  lor  thirteen  seals  and  a 
supply  of  lire-wood. 

On  the  2r)th  the  party,  with  E-tel  as  j,niide,  set  out  for  liur- 
ney  Island,  iis  named  by  Cook,  but  Kol-yu-chin  as  called  by  the 
natives.  Having'  traveled  fifty  miles  they  halted  at  the'huts 
of  two  Chook-chee  families  who  were  known  to  E-(el.  Thirtv- 
oiie  miles  farther  on,  bey(md  the  E-kech-ta  and  Ani-.i>uv-iin 
•rivers,  their  ]»osifion  Avas  found  to  be  in  latiMide  (;s°  U)',  bmni- 
tiide  182°  0'.  Mere  the  tundra  gave  way  to  more  elevated 
lands. 

On  the  2(Uh  the  party  traveled  nearly  tift^y  miles  to  a  small 
settlement  on  t  he  AVan-ka-rem  KMver,  near  rap(>  Wan-ka-rem, 
!<iiys  Wi'iingell:  ^Tliere  is  a  remarkable  similarity  between  the 


iree 


promontories  of  Schelagskoi,  Ir-kaipij  (('a]»e  North)  and 


, li  i-if-i 

^^^^  PI 


156 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


NNankurcMu.     Thoy  all  ..ou.i^t  (,f  fiiu.  j^rain.,!  syoni,<,  ,vi,i. 

«.vcM.Ksh  whU.  f.,<is„a..,  dark  om,.  iH.rnbk.id.  au<I  mica,  and 

are  umted  to  the  uiain.and  by  a  narrow  istlimu..     Tho  olcv,- 

lou  of  t he  lieaau.m.  and  breadth  of  the  isthmus  are  greatest  at 

rape  Hch(daj.skoi,  and  least  at  Cape  Wankarem  " 

Cape  On-man  havino  b,vn  doubled  on  the  27th.  Kol-yu-chin 
ookms  Ike  a  circular  mountain,  was  observed  twenty  111'; 
the  southeast  in  a  bay  of  the  same  name. 

Pushing-  on  to  its  southern  shore,  th(.  partv  weiv  soon  s.n- 
voumled  by  about  seventy  n.en  of  tlu^  villa,c,U"  vrZr 
^0  trade  whale's  flesh  for  tobacco  and  trinkets  ^ 

Aot  haviuo.  (!h.  nieans  of  extend(Ml  barter  WraiH-ell  was 
o  >%ed  to  dis<.outinue  his  Journey  farthc..  east.     O.  H  ^  ^i^ 

At  T     T^"'  ''^'  '^'"^'^  '''''^^"^^'"  ascertained  the^c. 
point  attained  by  Captain  Billings  a  third  of  a  century  pre- 

ju^a;i:  <;;c.:^:  x.'r  •'^'"'"'^'  '^^'"^^'^  ^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^■*^*''^  ■- 

On  the  (Uh  of  May  they  arrived  at  the  point  whence  M.- 

he    t Id  n    '  ":^f  ^•'•'-•'  ^^^»^'"^  that  the  breaking-u^^ 
th    ic  e  had  prevented  hnn  from  advancing  moiv  than  ten  mile 

cino  .ir  .Msiini  Ivolvmsk  on  the  2'M      Th.^^-  1  ..  i  1 

™.,v...i«,.  „„,.  „,;„ ,  navH.;i  ,,.-,i;;',- il;::' " ■  """"■"  -'■ 

M  -tinch-kin  had  reached  the  p^^ce  nenHv  ..  «...  1 
vej       (  |,,,„„  Bnj.     About  the  mi,ldl,,  „f  j,,,,.  ,„.  ,,  „,  ,„.  j,^. 


1^1  :ii 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD  157 

....i-litr";;;;::;;'::,;:;;:';-;:;^:;-'^ "■-'- •■- 

Tho  Avork  of  AVi-niiocH  i,,  Vowiu.,.,.  w:i      • 
Ever  on  fl.o  lo„ko„j   f,,,.  ||„.  j    ^  infp,.p«(«     .  ,  • 

;i:;rS£;:r"sr:;;::f   :^''=::» 


BELTED  ICKBEUU. 


11 


168 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


CHAPTER    Vlll. 

PARRY'S   SECOND    VOYAGE. 

Pleased  with  the  reiiiarkablo  success  of  Parry's  first  voy- 
age by  way  of  Lancaster  Sound,  the  admiralty  were  not  long  in 
again  fitting  him  out  for  a  second  time  to  search  for  the 
northwest  passage.  Parry's  own  plans  were  to  look  for  this 
in  the  vicinity  of  Kepulse  Bay,  the  northwesterumost  arm  of 
Koe's  \Velcome,  and  his  instructions  were  given  accordingly. 
Lieutenant  Lyon,  distinguished  for  his  travels  in  Northe.n 
Africa,  was  placed  second  in  command  of  the  ex^dition, 
which,  with  many  of  the  officers  who  had  accompanied  Parry 
on  the  previous  voyage,  sailed  in  May,  1821,  on  board  the 
"Fury"  and  tlie  "IFeda,"  each  of  about  375  tons  burden  and 
carrying  a  total  comi)lement  of  118  men. 

On  the  2d  of  July  both  vessels  were  in  heavv  ice  and  anion-- 
huge  icebergs  off  Kesolution  Island,  at  the  entrance  to  Hud- 
son's Strait.  One  of  those  mountains  of  the  sea  towered  above 
the  surface  to  a  height  of  258  feet,  and,  allowing  one-seventli 
as  the  proportion  visible,  extended  1,548  feet  beneath  tlic 
water,  thus  having  a  total  length  of  nearly  (me-third  of  a  mile 
Fifty-four  of  them  were  visibk  at  one  time  fnun  the  mast- 
head. 

On  the  14th  they  sighted  three  strange  vessels,  which 
proved  to  belong  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  (\)mi)anv.  One  of  them 
was  the  "Lord  Wellington,"  having  on  board  KiO  emigrant 
Hollanders,  bound  for  Loni  Selkirk's  estate  on  the  Red  River 
Says  Commander  Lyon,  of  the  *'Hecla":  "While  nearing  these 
vessels  we  observed  the 

SETTI.ERS    WALTZING    ON    DECK. 

for  above  two  hours,  t  he  men  in  old-fashi,»ned  gray  jackets,  and 
the  women  wearing  hmg-eared  mobcaps,  like  those  used  bv  the 


OR,  lifp:  in  thk  great  white  world.  ,  159 

Swiss  peasants.     As  we  were  surrounded  by  ice,  and  tlie  tlier 
mometer  was  at  tlie  freedng-polnt,  it  may  be  supposed  that  this 
bull,  al  vero  fresco,  afforded  us  mucli  amusement."     Sever-il 
marriages  bad  already  taken  place  on  board  and  more  wcu'v 
pending. 

On  July  21st  a  buge 

BEAR    WEIGHING  SIXTEEN    HUNDRED 

pounds  was  killed.  It  measured,  from  tip  of  snout  to  inser- 
ium  of  tail,  eight  feet  eight  inches.  Its  flesh  was  found  to 
be  palatable,  but,  after  taking  from  it  a  tub  of  blubber  the 
carcass  was  thrown  overboanl  and  soon  attracted  two  'wal- 
ruses to  It.  On  tlK^  same  day  the  vessels  were  visite<l  by  more 
than  a  hundred  Eskimos,  the  nmle  portion  of  the  tribe  comin- 
lu  their  kyaks,  or  men's  boats,  to  the  number  of  thirty  and 
the  women  in  ooniiaks,  or  women's  boats,  to  the  number  of  five 
A  kyak  holds  but  one  male,  vhile  an  oomiak  is  made  to  accom- 

^  iiiodate  more  than  twenty  women  and  children.  The  mem- 
bers of  this  tribe  were  found  to  be  of  a  thieving  disposition; 
they  had  evulently  learned  the  vices  of  other  and  earlier  vov- 
agcrs.  Nevertheless  they  were  eager  to  barter,  consummating 
the  bargain  by  licking  the  ac(iuired  article  all  over,  be  it  even 
a  razor.     They  were  also  a  merry  set. 

Says  Commander  Lyon:  "It  is  quite  out  of  mv  power  to  de- 
scribe the  shouts,  yells,  and  laughter  of  the  savages,  or  the  con- 
fusion which  existed  for  two  or  three  hours.  The  f(Muales 
were  at  first  very  shy,  and  unwilling  to  come  on  tlu^  ice,  but 

bartered  everything  from  their  boats.     This  timiditv,  however 

soon  wore  off  and  they,  in  the  end,  became  as  nois'v  a„a  ,,,,' 

.rous  as   he  men."     And  again :  "It  is  scarcely  possible  to  con- 

f  H  '  on     '"'^  more  ugly  <,r  disgusting  than  the  countenances 

e  01  Mvon.en  who  had  inflamed  eyes,  wrinkled  skin,  black 

<  •  1 ,  and,  1  fact,  such  a  forbidding  set  of  features  as  scarcely 

"<   bo  called  human;  to  which  might  be  added  their  divss 

.- Mvas  SU..1.  as  gave  them  the  appearance  of  aged  ourang-' 

t.ings.     I-  rob.sher's  nvw  may  be  panlon.Ml  for  havin.-    in 

-"  superstitious  times  as  A.  D.  157(5,  taken  one  of  these    ;;;i^ 


160 


TUK    SEARCH    F^OR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


for  ii  witch,  of  whom  it  is  said,  'Tlie  old  wretch  whom  „ur 
sailors  supposed  to  bo  a  witch  had  her  buskins  pulled  off  i,, 
see  if  she  was  cloveu-footed;  and  being'  very  ugly  and  de- 
formed, we  let  her  go.'  " 

Lyon  continues:  "The  strangers  were  so  well  pleased  in 
our  society  that  they  showe<l  no  wish  to  leave  us,  and  when  (he 
market  had  quite  ceased,  they  began  dancing  and  plaving  with 
our  people  on  the  ice  alongside.  This  exercise  set^nanv  of 
t  heir 

NOSES    BLEEDING, 

and  discovered  to  us  a  most  nasty  custom,  which  accounted  for 
their  gory  faces,  and  which  was,  that  as  fast  as  ihe  blood  rai. 
down,  they  scrai)od  it  with  the  lingers  into  their  mouths  ap- 
pearing to  consider  it  as  a  refreshment,  or  daintv,  if  we  mV-Iii 
judge  by  the  zest  with  which  they  smacked  their  lips  at  each 
supply," 

In  order  to  amuse  our  new  acquaintances  as 
much  as  possible,  the  tiddler  was  set  on  the  ice,  when  he  iii- 
Etantly  found  a  most  delightful  set  of  dancers,  of  whom  s(.in,. 
of  the  women  kept  pretty  good  time.  Their  only  ligure  con- 
sisted in  stamping  and  jumpiiig  with  all  their  might.  Our 
musician,  who  was  a  lively  fellow,  soon  caught  the  infection, 
and  began 

CUTTING    CAPERS 

also.  In  a  short  time  every  one  on  the  floe,  officers,  men  and 
savages,  were  dancing  together,  and  exhibited  one  of  the  most 
extraordinary  sights  I  ever  witnessed.  One  of  our  seamen,  of 
a  fresh,  ruddy  complexion,  excited  the  admiration  of  all  llic 
young  females,  who  patted  his  face  and  danced  aroun<l  him 
wherever  he  went, 

"The  exertion  of  dancing  so  exhilarated  the  Esquimaux 
that  they  had  the  appearance  of  being  boisterously  drunk,  and 
played  many  extraordinary  pranks.     Among  others,  it  was 

A    FAVORITE    JOKE 

to  run  slyly  behind  the  se.imcn,  and  slionling  loudlv  in  one 
ear,  to  give  them  at  the  snnie  time  a  very  smart  slap  on  I  he 


1  g   w^lf 


inn\ 


The  Three  Graces.-  Upernavik. 

(St'c  |)ilKC-  '■".<.  100,  I'U-.i 


OR.    LTPE    IN   THE    GRRAT    WHITE    WORLD.  ja 

"fliw.     Wiiilo  looking  on,  I  ,va.s  .sliarply  salutcl  in  tlik  mn„ 

"I  Hk.  b,stan,l,.,.»;  „,„•  ,.„ok,  w.,„  wa.  a  „„,»t  a.-tiv.  u  uu 
-.^.•-.Ijmn,,....,  bo,.a,no  so  «,„„  a  tavon,..  thaf  'very  „„, 
«.xc.l  I...S  oars  so  so„n,ll,v  as  to  oUli,.,.  the  „oo,.  n.,,  to  mir  • 
inou  suH.  b,...st,.,o„s  ,na,.ks  of  approbatiou.  A, ,  ,  ^  oH  ,. 
sports  son,,,  o  ,  ,.  IOs,,„inu.ux  rath,...  ronshl.y,  but  wiM,  1!  ", 
«oo,.  bmno,-  ,i,all,.n.,.,l  onr  pooplo  to  wostle.  Uno  num 
parti.nlar,  who  l.a.l  thrown  several  of  his  couutrynieu, 

ATTACKED    AN    OFFICER 

of  a  ver.v  stron^r  „„k,.,  i,„t  the  poor  savaj;,.  was  instantiv 
(hrown,  an,l  win,  „o  very  easv  fall;  jot,  aWhon^h  ,.  e   !"2 

wax  lausl„r,.  at  l,,n, bo,.,  i,  with  exo.npla,,- ^ood  1„  „,  " 

I  l,e  .sa,ne  olb.er  airo,.,le,l  „s  ,„„,„  ,live,...;o„  by  t,,,;!,,.  a  la  '  J 
l.arty  of  women  to  bow,  ,.o„,.te.sy,  »hal<,.  l,a„,ls,  „„.„  ,h,.i,'  ". 
:;•;•""  "r'f"""  -'"■•.-■  ...l.or  polite  ae,.o„„;iis,.,a  'Z 

nhole^party,    n.aster  a,„l    pnpils,    preserving   ,he   strictest 

"Towa,-,l  „,i,lniKl,|  „i|  ,„„  „„.„^  ,,,.,.^^  j,,,. 

'"■'"■'•  '"  I"  t  "■!'•  1"'<I»,  a„,l  the  fa,i,„e,l  a,.,l  h„„srv  Ks ,  ,  •' 
im„.v  ,e  „,.ne,l  to  thoir  boats  to  tak,-  ti,eir  supper  wi  ie    r. 

H,i7,s':,,:;;;','::.;',^,',;';,;,'i;':;:'' """  *■"-"-  ""'•■'■  -'  •>—  .i,eir 

The''!::,;::!:  ;',:;-;:,.;.";;;"'i- .-"«-«. ^  With  favo,.i„,  „,n,is. 

iiu  m-  noes,  1  arry  <)l)sorvo(  ,  woro  ('«tvf»r»,i  „;ti.  ii 

"(I  and  slielLs,  ^^l„Io  on  many  of  thorn  ^yoiv  n.ass,>s  „f  ,,„.i 

n::;r;;;rs':r;;;;?ri:r:;;:;;- ■— -iii;:^ 

"Mb,  of  Who,,,  i,  „,,s  obse,.ve,l  that  ilLy  lore' '"  "'■'■'■  "''■' 

BIRD-SKFN    SHIRTS 

"""""""""""•^ -in,.xttothebo„y.     It,,,,..,,  Hiffs  ,,,„.„ 


■^Ig^BMbw^ 


Ifi2 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


f(vt  high  and  caves  in  o,vat  bods  „f  j.„(mss  wore  seen.     In  one 
«»f    h(^se  caverns  Parry  an<l  Mr.  Jann^s  V.  i:,.ss  erected  a  tent 
and  spent  a  m<rUt.     Their  boat's  (-row  caught  in  the  holes  on 
be  beach  a  sutHcent  .,nantity  of  sillocks,  or  young  eoal-flsh 
f()i' two  n,e.ls  for  the  entire  ship's  company.     During  the  night 

HUNDREDS    OF    WHITE    WHALES 

wore  seen  close  to  the  rocks,  and  ^yovo  probably  feeding  on  th.^ 
Hillocks.     Previous  to  this,  narwhales,  or  seaLicorn:,!!. 
times  as  many  as  twenty  in  a  sch(,o],  were  seen  about  the  ships 
lune  weather  afforded  an.ple  opportunity  <.f  observing  the  .' 
m  a  calm  sea.     They  were  about  twenty  feet  in  length  hiclu 
ing  he  spirally-twisted  horn  of  ivory,  five  or  six  feet  long 

i  he  next  day,  Duke  of  York's  Bay,  "one  of  the  most  tvure 

Ithes  ,n  the  northwestern  portion  of  the  island  and  opens  into 
he  frozen  Strait,  named  by  (^.ptain  Middleton  in  1742  on 
his  voyage  of  discovery  to  Hoe's  Wel.-(.me  and  Wager  Hiver 
in  that  year.  *^ 

On  the  bay  Parry  discovered  the  ruins  of  an  Eskimo  set- 
tlement and  nine  or  ten  burial-cairns  about  three  feet  hi-^h  and 
as  many  wide  at  the  base.     In  thesc>  cairns  were  foun<l  a^kull 
an  arrow-head,  spear  heads,  and  miniature  cano(^s 

August  22d  found  the  expedition  in  Repulse  liay,  latitu<le 
<>(>  .iO  oS  ,  or  nearly  a  mile  north  of  the  Arctic  (^irclo.      \  lor,.. 

Hme  y''''!'''^'  ''  '^^'^•'^'^-'^  l>y  Captain  Lyon  as  being  at  that 
time  literally 

COVERED    WITH    YOUNG    EIDER    DUCKS 

Who  were  taking  their  Hrst  lessons  in  swin.ming.  ()„  fhc^ 
day  following  was  begun  the  careful  examination  of  (100  mihs 
of  coast-line  northward  and  including  Hoss'  I?av.  Much  gan.e 
was  fonnd  and  it  was  "enacted  that  for  the  purpose  of  econo- 
mizing the  ships'  provisions,  all  deer  or  musk-oxen  kille.l 
should  be  served  out  in  li<.u  of  the  usual  allowance  of  meal. 
I  ares  ducks  and  other  birds  were  not  at  this  tinu^  to  be  in- 
'•liKled.     As  an  encouragement  to  sportsmen,  the  bead,  legs 


OR.    LIFE -IN    THE    OREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  I63 

...Hi  Offal  (,f  the  larooi.  auhnals  w<mv  to  bo  porquinitos  of  those 

who  procured  the  ea.rasses  t<„.  th,  o,Hon.l  uo!k1  " 

^^^^«a,vs  Lyon:  "In  the  anin.als  of  .hhs  da,  ue  wee  eonviuced 

OUR    SPORTSMEN 

had  not  forsott™  the  latitu,!,.  ,„  wl.ici,  ,|„,i,  p,.,.„ui.si,e«  ,„i„ht 
a  n  g  M„.    ,«„!«  wind.  I,u,l  b.™  u,„,,.., .j    ,  t,„.  ,„^,^^' 

iau;i  "^.:trr,xs.^,;«n:'  '"^  ■"t*'"" 

.nvel-«,  tl,..,.,.  f„xe»,  three  rave,  k,  f„uv  .eak  , IT  '        ^ 

enuiu..,  ete.     Two  of  the  ,eal«\v^e  ^t^JT^r^T""'''"' 
<H,o..a  ba..hata),  ao.,  ,ve<,he„  .,ht  l^Llt  r;;^  = 

Owin-  to  the  rapid  growth  of  the  vouu"'  ice  which  wn«  . 
tliiet  and  a  half  niches  thick,  on  the  8th  of  October   he-id 
quarters  were  established  on  ' 

.  WINTER    ISLAND 

near  the  mouth  of  Koss-  Hay.     Me,,,  the  ,„„„„to„v  of  time  -.nd 

party  .■onsistins  of  nnn.eroas  E«kh,  L„        n  nn 'o     ""''"■'"" 
"a   .l,e  first  of  February.     Thev    ^'e       .-    ,;     ,  "'"'!'''""" 

-nah.,  or  white  ,„e„.    They  were  relate,,  as  br    he        .1  ;  t 
Iff,  the  girrs  name  beino-  To-.ioo  lii-     qi.  <•      .     ••"o  si.s 

-.1  her  intelligence  nl^J^'      ';,;^'    ,:j::J^'"^  f  "--' 

Ix'tweon  fh«  T^ ,.„„^,,..  ,,  ''f-^   <losiiabie  interjn'eter 

"    --Pean.s  aud  her  people.    Observing  that  they 


sir  ■.-;ri' 


j|ifil3fl- 


104 


THE    SEAIICH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


I      .,,•'"    " '""■   '" '  l"""il  ""'I  '•■•Mn..»l,.,l  h,.,.  „,  „„„,„: 

.<•  <.M.s     ,„  „l„.-  ,„„l,.,..,(,„„|  ii.    ii,.„i„„i„.  „.i(h  , ....im.  „f 

.M...,.  i„i,,n,i,  »i„.  „.,„.,.,i  „„.  ..„„„,  „„,„:„,,,,,  „,  ,,,",'■ 

il(n-«„,-,l»  ,l,«.ov,.r,.,l  K,„,v  a,„l  ll„|„  .St,,,h,  tl,,.,,,,.  ,v,.s  „•     1 

,:„"';; "  •^'■'"v,"" '!■  '"•  '"■I""-  "".V-  «!"■  i.-i  M,,,: 

.         (h,.,.„„sl  „  l„.,.,„u>v..  Ak.k,.„.|c.,.,  ,1„.  .M,.lvill..  |.,.,„M,s„h, 

Tliis  party  of  Mskinu.s  uurnborod  «ixtj  souls,  and  w(mv  liv- 
iu«  m  hv.  huts  m..„t,,  ,ro.u.l  .nth.I,  of  suow  aud  I..,  „  , 
ai.  fron.  .Ih-  sinps.     ^Vft..  .nvpi„.  „.,>uo.h  two  low  pa:  - 
s  ges  having  oach  its  aivlu.l  do^.-wav,  w.  <.anH.  to  a  su.all  d,- 
•liar  apartuuMH,  of  which  tU.  roof  was  a  p<MfV<-t  a.rhc.l  don., 
lion,  this  lh,(v  doorways,  also  arched,  an<l  (,f  hn-ovr  din.en- 
Hions  than  the  outer  ones,  led  inf,  as  n.any  inhabitcMl  apart- 
ments, one  on  each  side,  and  the  <.ther  facin-  us  as  we  entered 
Ihe  women  were  seated  on  the  beds  at  the  shies  of  the  huts' 
each  havni-  her  little  firei,la<(«  «,r  lan.p,  with  all  her  domestic 
ntensils  about  her.     The  children  crept  behind  their  mothers 
and  the  doj.s  slunk  past   us  in  dismay.     The  construction  of 
this  inhabited  part  of  the  hut  was  similar  to  that  of  the  outer 
ai)artm(M.(,  beinj.  a  dome  formed  by  s<'i)arate  blocks  of  snow 
laid  with  on.j.t  reoularity,  and  no  small  art,  each  beino  cut 
into  theshai)e  re(iuired  to  form  a  substantial  arch,  fnmi  seven 
to  eio'ht  feet  hioh  iu  the  center,  and  haviiio  no  sui)port  what- 
ever excei)t  what  this  principle  of  bnildinj?  sujijdies.     ,s  .f. 
licient  li«>lit  was  admitted  into  these  curious  edifices  by  a  cir- 
cular window  of  ice,  neatly  fitted  into  the  roof  of  each  a])ar( 
nient."     In  rebuilding-  their  hnts  they  did  so  by  erecting'  the 
new  ones  around  and  over  the  old  ones,  which  they  removed 
after  the  new  walls  were  in  position. 
Duriui*-  the  winter  more  than 

ONE    HUNDRED   FOXES 

were  secured,  and  yet  there  seemed  to  be  no  lessenino-  of  their 
PUJid)ors  about  the  ships,  while  a  ]>nck  of  wolves  paid  them 


i.-.-«'.w<Kwm«w»««<»«si».*»>** 


oil.    Lli  h    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


len 


fivnuoni  visits,  ou  Olio  octasiou 

<0i     iiu<l    III    il    S1H)\\     hut    ill 

day  nalla'd  on  boiii<|  d,,.  "| 


oiioHid 


fUiTyiiio- oH'  two  EnI 


<".     A   bcjiiiliriil 


kiiiKi  <Ioi;m 


<'i'iiiim» 


i^iiriiiifts,  ui  "st  a-l 
liolo  (an  ojH'iiiiij.'  tin 
nm-  of  Jii-c)  as  to  rl 


)• 


OUl 


•  ('<■''"  and  was  rapdircd. 

'>  HHiUihidiiious  In  tlw  ii 


.JO 


M-      i«  Hc  from  which  (o  dr 


vn- 


iw  water  in 


Nkclt'louH  <»f  ain'   lals  let  d 


;*'';MHTf(HiJvinasinoh.,,ij,.|,,.,,,,,  ,,.,^,  j,j 


In  Mai  eh  li      Eyi, 


own  (o  (licin  toi-  (luK  ,„ii-, 


Ivinios  removed  lo  (j 


lose 


P<.seof,-al<hin«  the  seal  and  wal 


In  Mav  Caplain  I 


I'llS. 


le  sea-ice  I'oi-  the  juir 


yon  and  Lieutenant  Pal 


"""»,  explored  the  west  coast  of  tl 
n<Mla  Strait.     Tl 


ii'.y  retni'f 


on 


"'<'  top-mast,  James  J'.    ,..j 


nier,  with  ejuht 
U'  peninsida  to  Fnrv  and 
""<''<"  ^'Ist.     On  the  ir.th,  whilei 


'«'  "llecla"  and 


was  instant  I V  kilh'd 


<S  a  seaman,  fell  |„  th,.  de<-k  of 


<>"  'July  2d  both  vessels  sailed 


careful 

aanied  the  IJarrow  I 


"'iralty,  anact 


.V  examined  as  they  pro-icssed 
iiver  in  honor  of  || 


norti  ,var<l,  the 


On  the  i;}th 


'<»asl  beinj:^ 


> « 


>  stream, 


In  it 
Iniil 


Jvejiromoter  of  Arctic 


H'  secretary  of  the  ad- 


were  seen  two  beautiful 


Kli,  ami,  hij.herup,  twoinij 


voyajics,  was  disci 


•vered. 


'•ascades,  ninety  and  tifteen  feet 


liattl 


in^-  constantly  with   I 


)ressivecalai;icts 


prominent  he 
yond  it  were  found 


xlland,  which  was  named  ( 


'<''»vy   ice,   the  shii)s   passed 


'billed  and  eaten. 
On  Julv  Hit  I 


laroe  herds  of  walru 


ajx'  IVnrhvn.     ]U 


s('s,s(mie  of  which  Avei-i 


I,  on 


at  the 


(Ml  trail 


aini>ment  of  ovei 


IGLOOLHv  ISLAND, 

«•<'  <o  the  channel  describc.l  bv  I.r] 


Th 


one  hundred  Esl 


Oolil. 


K,  an  eii- 


(•  ice  continued  to  press  tl 


knnos  was  met  witl 


1. 


<"uld  not  advance  faste.r  than  fi 


>o  vessels  heavilv,  so  that  tl 


(he  space  of  several  d,. 
^vith  five  men,  h>ft  tln^  s'l 
<o  a  point 


1  vs. 


oni  a  half  to  a  mil 


lev 


II 


Accordingly,  on  the  ISth    I 


<'  or  two  in 


ps  and  followed  the  si 


overlooking  the  chanmd,  which  I 


arrv, 


lore  westward 


i'Jid  riecla  Strait,  and  tl 


I'n'l  in  sic^ht,  ho  supposed  thai  h.  ..,„  ,,,-.ve,l  n, 
he  Ocean.     iMva.,  however,  the  Gulf  of  iJootliia 


o  sea,  beyond  which  tl 
le  had  arrived 


io  named  the  Fur 


b(^ 


uiff  no 


ipon  the  Arc- 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


y 


k{0 


{/ 


■^ 


/a 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


^    1^    12.0 


M 

2.2 


1.8 


i^  III  1.6 


rllulu^cipiin.; 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  873-4503 


1 


,\ 


iV 


LV 


H^'^ 


c\ 


\ 


^ 


6^ 


^!^^         ^-f' 


'<> 


o 


i/.A 


i 


16G 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


Tbe  first  half  of  September  was  spent  in  vain  by  Captains 
Parry  and  Lyon  and  Lieutenants  Keid  and  Palmer,  each  in  com- 
mand of  a  party,  endeavoring  to  find  u  passage  to  the  west. 
The  strait  varied  in  width  from  eight  to  forty  miles  and  was 
blocked  with  ice  extending  between  the  many  islands  Avhich 
filled  it  from  Ig-loo-lik  on  the  east  to  Cape  luglefield  on  the 
west. 

Abandoning  further  efforts  for  that  year.  Parry  returned 
to  the  vicinity  of  Igloolik  Island  and  established 

WINTER    QUARTERS, 

'  where  they  were  again  greeted  by  tiieir  old  frieuds,  the  Es- 
kimos. Here  an  uneventful  season  Avas  passed,  although  the 
weather  was  unusually  severe.  The  sun  was  absent  forty-.two 
days.   ■  , 

The  men  took  exercise  on  a  space  enclosed  by  high  snow 
Avails. 

About  the  1st  of  May  heavy,  Avell-defim^d  clouds,  gorgeously 
colored,  put  in  an  anomalous  appearance,  for  those  regions. 
On  the  5th  provisi(-ns  for  one  year  were  removed  from  the 
"Ilecla"  to  the  "Fury,"  Parry  having  decided  to  send  the 
"Hecla"  to  England  with  the  opening  of  the  season  and  to 
endeavor  to  find  a  passage  northAvard  in  he  "Fury"  alone,  to 
Lancaster  Sound  or  Prince  Regent's  Inlet. 

In  June  Captain  Lyon  endeavored  to  explore  Ak-koo-lee 
and  especially  its  Avestern  coast.  He  crossed  the  Fury  and 
Hecla  Strait  and  gained  some  slight  information  regarding 
Cockburn  Island,  as  it  is  supposed  to  be  from  accounts  de- 
rived from  the  natives. 

In  the  course  of  the  same  mouth  the  vessels  were  visited 
by  parties  of  Eskimos  from  Too-noonk,  the  Pond's  Inlet  region 
on  the  west  coast  of  Baffin's  Bay.  Their  sleds  Avere  made  of 
portions  of  the 

WRECKS   OF  TWO  WHALING-VESSELS, 

which  they  said  had  gone  to  pieces  some  time  before.     It  was 
afterwards  ascertained  that  they  were  ships  from  Leith  and 


I 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  167 

Hull,  Which  had  been  abandoned  in  August,  1821.  Lieutenant 
Hoppner  endeavored  to  reach  the  scene  of  the  disaster  by 
crossing  over  from  Cockburn  Island,  but  owing  to  the  dilatori- 
ness  of  the  Eskimo  guides  he  was  obliged  to  return  to  the 
ships. 

On  July  19th  a  fishing  party  returned  with  G40  pounds  of 
salmon  and  ninety-five  pounds  of  deer  meat.  The  lar"est 
fish,  when  dressed,  weighed  eight  and  one-half  pounds  "  In 
length  they  measured  from  twenty  to  twenty-six  inches. 

After  having  been  three  hundred  nineteen  days  in  their 
winter-quarters,  the  ships  got  away  on  the  9th  of  Auoust 
Parry  having  determined  to  return  to  England  with  both^yes- 
sels,  owing  to  the  appearance  of  scurvy  among  the  men 

For  the  next  thirty-flve  days  they  were  beset  by  the  ice 
and  driven  hopelessly  about  for  300  miles.  Of  that  time  the 
first  twelve  days  in  September  was  a  period  of  horrid  suspense. 
Says  Captain  Lyon:  "Ten  of  the  twelve  nights  were  passed  on 
deck,  in  expectation,  each  tide,  of  some  decided  change  in  our 
affairs,  either  by  being  left  on  the  rocks,  or  grounding  in  such 
shoal  water  that  the  whole  body  of  the  ice  n.ust  have  slid  over 
us.  But,  as  that  good  old  seaman  Baffin  expresses  himself, 
'God,  who  is  greater  than  either  ice  or  tide,  always  deliv- 
ered us!'" 

On  the  23d  of  September,  1823,  the  ships  were  once  more 
tossing  in  the  Atlantic,  and  arrived  safely  in  the  Thames  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  following  month.  Of  the  118  officers  and 
irien,  113  of  them  returned  in  good  health  after  having  passed 
two  winters  in  the  ice,  the  average  temperature  of  the  air 
being  several  degrees  below  zero. 


BAKOMETEU  OF   FRANKLIN'S    EXPEDITION, 
Found  by  C.  F.  Hall,  on  King  William  Land,  in  186% 


■M'm 


168 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


CIIAPTEK  IX. 

VOYAGES  OF  SABINE  AND  LYON. 

The  Spitzbergeii  route,  essayed  in  1823  by  Captains  Habinc 
au(l  Clavering,  nia.v,  iu  one  sense,  be  said  to  have  been  an  elfoil 
to  reach  the  North  Pole. 

While  the  primary  idea  of  the  expedition  was  the  investioa- 
tion  of  the  magnetic  phenomena  within  the  Arctic  Circle'^it 
combined  geographical  research  as  well.  ' 

Captain  Edward  Sabine  having  completed  a  series  of  ob- 
servations to  determine  the  configuration  of  the  earth's  .ur- 
tuce  by  means  of  vibration  of  the  pendulum  in  dill'ereut  lati- 
tudes from  the  equator  to  the  Arctic  Circle,  and  also  investiga- 
ions  pertaining  to  terrestrial  magnetism,  was  desirous  of  cou- 
1  luuing  the  same  in  latitudes  nearer  the  pole.  His  cause  wa« 
espoused  by  that  eminent  scientist, 

SIR  HUMPHREY  DAVY, 

Of  the  Koyal  Society,  and  the  government  accordinglv  placed 
at  his  disposal  the  "Griper,"  Captain  Clavering  comnuuiding. 
Sailing  in  May,  1823,  Captain  Sabine  was  landed  with  his  in- 
struments  at  Hammerfest,  on  Whale  Island,  where  for  three 
weeks  he  carried  on  his  observations  somewhat  beyond  the 
lOth  degree  of  north  latitude.  Sailing  thence  on  the  23d  of 
June  the  "Cxriper,"  a  week  later,  arrived  off  the  northwest 
coast  of  Spitzbergen,  in  about  the  80th  degree  of  latitud.. 
Here,  on  the 

SEVEN   SISTER  ISLANDS, 

Sabine  carried  on  his  pendulum  observations,  while  Claverin.- 
proceeded  northward.  After  reachino-  Latitude  80^  20'  he  was 
stopped  by  the  ice,  and,  returning  to  the  Seven  Sister  Islands 
picked  up  Captain  Sabine  and  sailed  thence  to  the  east  coast 


OK.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  169 

Of  (Jreenhmd,  wbero,  in  al,„„t  latitude  75°  were  discovered  a 
s.„al.  group  of  i»Ia„ds  wln.l,,  l,y  rea»ou  of  Captain  SabZ', 
lliere  „,ak,ug  a  series  of  observatious,  were  uanled  the 

PENDULUM    ISLANDS. 

A,  few  miles  farther  north,  in  latitude  75°,  C'laveriuK  dis- 
I'overed  aud  named  Shannon  Islands.  Pron,  his  vZtlZ, 
a..<l  was  seen  to  extend  northward  to  the  7«th  paraUel     T 

inlet  about  fifty  miles  in  circumference,  and  surrounded  hv 

r;.",  :::rz.:;''"V"  'r  '■"'  ■"^''' "  --^  '<■-"« 't 

"..  "e,l  on  shore,  exploring  the  coast,  with  three  officers  and 
ixteen  n,en.    On  August  2!.th  Captain  Sabine  wastaken^ 

A  group  of  twelve  Eskimos  was  met  win,    nui        .    . 
■i«;;;  iuformation  concerning  theZaTac  ""ed      ■""'"  •"" 
Ihe  ,ce  along  slnu^e  becoming  threatening,  (Maverine  sailed 
for  Norway,  where,  near  Christiansand,  th7  ", irip  7,tn  ^ 
nrd  on  a  sunken  rock,  but  got  off  without  injury.  She  reac  led 
I-«h,nd  December  19,  182,1     It  will  be  recalled  th  t    he  had 
seen  service  with  Captain  Parry  less  than  three  vears  before 
>■.  his  flr.st  expedition,  of  which  Captain  Sabiue'was  the  a, 
tronomer,  then  but  thirtytwo  vears  of  a-^e 

.he^^—Jn"'  *i"'  "*"'"',•'■"  """"^  "•itl' "captain  Sabine  than 
.he  « as  again  put  in  rea.liness  for  Arctic  ice;  and,  in  June 
1S24  sailed  under  command  of  Captain  O.  P.  Lyon  who  com' 
manded  the  "Ilecla"  during  the  second  Parry  elp;mi.m  ^^ 
the  purpose  of  ..oinpleting  the  survey  of  P""""".  f'"" 

MELVILLE  PENINSULA, 

11.0  adjoininc,  straits,  and  the  shores  of  Arctic  America  as  f,r 
as  Franklin's  turning-point  in  1821. 

So  poor  were  the  sailing  qualities  of  this  gun-brio-  as  had 
been  demonstrated  by  Parry  on  his  first  voyage  th^t  t  w^s 
not  tni  the  close  of  August  that  Lyon  arrivedTthe  'loler: 


170 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


entrance  to  Sir  Thomas  Hoe's  Welcome,  where  a  terrific  gale 
was  encountered,  before  which  the  "Gripei*"  was  driven  hope- 
lessly until  she  was  finally  checked  in  her  mad  career  by  four 
anchors  dropped  in  a  bay  of  five  and  a  half  fathoms  of  water. 
It  was  momentarily  expected  that  the  vessel  would  go  to 
pieces  and  the  boats  were  therefore  loaded  with  supplies. 
Two  of  these  were  almost  sure  to  be  destroyed  as  soon  as  low- 
ered and 

LOTS  WERE  CAST 

for  the  purpose  of  insuring  the  safety  of  those  who  should 
draw  the  more  reliable  boats.  The  unfortunate  ones  accepted 
their  fate  with  heroic  magnanimity.  Heavy  seas  swept  the 
decks,  while  for  three  nights  neither  oflScers  nor  crew  had 
slept.  Each  man  brought  his  bag  on  deck  and  dressed  in  his 
warmest  clothing.     Says  Lyon: 

"And  now  that  everything  in  our  power  had  been  done  I 
called  all  hands  aft,  and  to  a  merciful  God  offered  prayers  for 
our  preservation.  I  thanked  all  for  their  excellent  conduct, 
and  cautioned  them,  as  we  should  in  all  probability  soon  ap- 
pear before  our  Maker,  to  enter  His  presence  as  men,  resigned 
to  their  fate. 

"We  then  all  sat  down  in  groups,  and  sheltere<l  from  the 
wash  of  the  sea,  by  Avhatever  we  could  find,  many  of  us  en- 
deavored to  obtain  a  little  sleep. 

"Never,  perhaps,  was  witr  ised  a  finer  scene  than  on  the 
deck  of  my  little  ship,  when  all  hope  of  life  had  left  us.  Noble 
as  the  character  of  the  British  sailor  is  always  allowed  to  be 
in  cases  of  danger,  yet  I  did  not  believe  it  to  "be  possible  that 
among  forty-one  persons  not  one  repining  word  should  have 
been  uttered. 

"The  officers  sat  about  wherever  they  could  find  shelter 
from  the  sea,  and  the  men  lay  down  conversing  with  each  other 
with  the  most  perfect  calmness.  Each  was  at  peace  with  his 
neighbor  and  all  the  world;  and  T  am  firmly  persuaded  that 
the  resignation  which  was  then  shown  to  the  will  of  the  Al- 
mighty was  the  means  of  obtaining  Tlis  mercy.  God  was 
merciful  to  us,  and  the  tide  almost  miraculously  fell  no  lower." 


OR.   LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE   WORLD.  m 

When  the  storm  abated,  they  found  themselves  in  a  small 
arm  of  Koe's  Welcome,  and  gratefully  named  it  the 

BAY    OF    GOD'S    MERCY. 

On  September  12th  a  second  gale  was  encountered  at  the 
mouth  of  Wager  River.  The  night  was  intensely  dark  and 
sleet  and  froze-i  spray  covered  the  decks  to  the  depth  of  sev- 
eral inches.  The  men,  working  in  their  frozen  clothes,  were 
kept  from  being  washed  overboard  by  clinging  to  frozen  ropes 
stretched  across  the  deck."  All  the  anchors  gave  way  and  the 
ship  was  turned  on  her  broadside.  The  morning  revealed 
appalling  danger,  but  each  man  did  his  duty,  and  the  gallant 
young  Lyon,  then  only  twenty-nine  years  of  age,  but  fertile  of 
resource  and  trained  in  the  school  of  Parry,  met  every  emer- 
gency and  outrode  the  storm. 

The  season  being  now  nearly  spent  and  the  anchors  gone 
it  was  decided  to  return  to  England',  where,  eight  years  later 
the  brave  Lyon  passed  away.  ' 


THE   crow's   nest. 


172 


THE    SEARCH   FOR   THE   NORTH   yuLtai; 


CHAPTER  X. 

PARRY'S  THIRD  VOYAGE. 

So  highly  was  Parry  ostooincd  bot  li  as  a  commander  and 
(niristian  g(Mi(leman  that  lio  luid  only  to  hoist  his  pennant  and 
his  former  associates  aj-ain  rallied  round  him  in  a  noble  spirit 
of  emulation.  Thus,  in  1824,  when  he  undertook  a  third  voy- 
age in  search  of  the  northwest  passaj-e,  he  was  accompanied  by 
Lieutenant  Hoppner,  promoted  to  the  rank  of  commander, 
and  second  in  comnmnd,  by  Messrs.  James  C.  Koss  and  J. 
Sherer,  promoted  to  be  lieutenants,  and  by  others  of  his  veteran 
followers.  A^ain,  too,  were  the  "ilecla"  and  the  "Fury"  eni- 
ph)yed,  the  "Ilecla"  bein<.  mad(^  the  t!a},^ship  as  on  the  first 
voyage.  With  a  total  comi)lement  of  122  men,  the  two  vessels 
sailed  on  the  lJ)th  of  May,  1S24-,  and,  after  battling  with  the 
ice,  rain,  snow,  and  sleet  of  Baffin's  liay  during  the  months  of 
July  and  August,  arrived,  on  the  10th  of  September,  at  the 
entrance  of  Lancaster  Sound. 

On  one  occasion  previous  to  this  the  "Ilecla"  was  laid  on 
her  broadside  by  a  strain  in  the  ice  which  must  have  crushed 
an  ordinary  vessel. 

With  much  difficulty  Parry  now  made  his  way  to  Prince 
Regent's  Inlet,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  which,  in 

PORT  BOWEN, 

he  resolved  to  spend  his  fourth  winter  in  the  Arctic  regions. 
Arriving  here  on  the  27th  of  September,  the  ships  remained 
imprisoned  till  the  following  20th  of  July.  During  the  win- 
ter season  the  sun  was  absent  121  days,  returning  on  the  22(1 
of  February,  but  from  the  tops  of  the  encircling  (diffs  could  be 
seen  on  the  2d,  while  the  thermometer,  for  131  days,  remained 
below  zero,  rising  above  that  point  on  the  11th  of  April. 


OR,   LIFE   IN  THE  GREAT    WHITE   WORLD.  173 

Althougl,  aclioolB,  HcientiHc  observations,  walking  ami  ox- 

Cu2  'TJ'""  "7"'  '•'■':•■""'  ""^  ■""■">'"»^' '"  •'"■!■•  ""1>H»- 
"inumt    vet  iiii„l,  luKonuily  was  ii,.,-es«arv  iu  devisinir  anv 

pl.n,^sufW..ie„tl,   nevel   to  break   tl,e  «e„;,.a,  enmu'Cs 

"It  is  hard  to  eonceivc  any  one  thinj?  more  like  another  than 
I  «•"  «-.nters  passed  in  the  higher  latitmles  of  the  „oi„r  re«  ons 
e«e,.t  when  variety  happens  to  be  affonie-l  by  inter™  e 
>v^U  s,,n,e  branch  of  the  whole  fa,,,;,,,  ,„  „  an  W  er 
.  fter  winter  natnre  here  assnn.es  an  aspect  so  „  nch  X 
that  .■ursory  observation  ean  scarcely  ,l,.t  -ct  a  sini l"  featn  e 
;.f  variety.    The  winter  of  more  temperate  <• at  ,  ^n.l  evJn 

;'i;.:r:hicir,r"'"'*  '^■''"'''  '^  "^'•»™'""">-  ~«"  ^n 

thaw  which  at  once  gives  variety  and  -omparative  clieerfnl 
"ess  to  the  prospect.  But  here,  when  ..n..e  tlu  eart ,  is  t ' 
".■Hi,  «1I  .s  dreary  monotonons  whiteness,  not  ,ne  e ly  o  d''v« 
"■■  weeks,  but  for  more  than  a  half  of  a  year  to.  tl  .  Wltn 
I'ver  way  the  eye  is  turned,  it  meets  a  pict  Pe  calcnMted t 
napress  upon  the  min.l  an  i.lea  of  inanimate  stil  n'ss  '^f  1  t 
"".  lonless  torpor  with  which  onr  feelings  have  nSn.  -o'^ 
Kcnial ;  of  anything,  in  short,  but  life.  In  The  my  si  en  "  theit 
IS  a  deadness  with  which  n  i.„n,n,.  ^  ^      ^  i^umue  there 

-seeping.    The  pres^cr    f^l'^^^''  fLr""  ""*  "' 

'Ireary  solitude  of  this  wintry  desertThic'   ev        "     '  •""  "'" 

mals  have  for  a  while  forsaken  "  '  ""  '""""  »"'• 

Happily,  Lieutenant  Iloppner  hit  upon  the  idea  of  hoi,lino 

ft 

MASK    BALLS. 

^rotr^ndrriitr''""  -■••'^  *"""■"■'•  ••>""-'-'  ♦" 

l"'»rtily  and  Tns  wrL:         '"  "'"^l""™"-  ^-ry  Joined 

"It  is  impossible  that  any  idea  could  have  nroved  „■„,.„ 
Imppy,  or  more  exactly  suited  to  on..  «ir„„i'  .  .  * 

<l.essed  characters  of  vario  dcHptinre:;;^. •"?«"•■ ' 
parts  and  many  of  these  were  supported  :^' a  l":, 
spirit  and  genuine  good  hnmor  which  wonhl  nnf  !  "^^ r 
graced  a  more  reined  assembly;  while  T'lattr  m;;rt  "Z 


I-  i| 


11 


174 


THE    SEARCH   FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


havo  boon  dispfrarod  by  oopylnj;  tlio  jjfood  ordor,  decorum  and 
inoiTcnsivo  chccifiiliicss  wliirli  our  liuinbh'  iiiasqucradcH  jnc- 
HPiitcd.  It  dooH  osfocial  ci'cdit  to  the  disi)OHitionH  and  j^ood 
sense  of  our  men,  that  thoiij;;li  all  the  offieerw  entered  fnlly  into 
the  spirit  of  these  amnsements,  which  took  phice  once  a  month 
alternately  on  board  of  each  ship,  no  instance  occnrred  of  any- 
thing that  could  inlerfere  with  the  regular  discii)line,  <ir  at 
all  weaken  the  respect  of  the  meiv  toward  their  suiieriorH. 
Ours  were  masipierades  without  licentiousness — carnivjds 
without  excess." 

In  the  course  of  their  imprisonment  Lieutenant  J.  (\  Koss 
examined  the  shore  northward  to  Cape  York,  and  Lieutenant 
Sherer  the  coast  line  southward  to  Vi\\H'  Kater,  latitude  72°  l;i', 
while  Commander  lloppner  journeyed  inland  nearly  two  de- 
grees over  a  deeply-raviwed  country  to  latitude  73°  19'.  Lieu- 
tenant Foster,  in  establishing  a  meridian  mark,  found  that  lie 
could  carry  on  a  conversation  with  his  assistant  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  and  two-tenths.  The  weather  was  serene  and 
the  temperature  18°  below  zero  at  the  time. 

Many  polar  bears  were  seen  in  this  region  and  twelve 
killed.     On  two  occasions  the 

MATERNAL   AFFECTION 

of  these  brutes  was  shown  in  the  stubborn  defense  of  their 
young,  Avhen  thej'  might  have  escaped.  But  while  this  quality 
is  highly  developed  in  these  creatures  it  must  not  be  over- 
looked that  hatred  of  each  other  is  not  wanting  in  their  na- 
ture. Only  a  few  years  ago,  in  the  Zoological  Garden  of  Co- 
logne, there  took  place 

A . MORTAL    COMBAT 

between  a  couple  of  them.  They  had  been  captured  live  years 
previous,  in  Spitzbergen,  and  confined  in  a  large  pit  contain- 
ing a  tank  in  the  center.  A  quarrel  finally  ensuing  between 
them,  the  fenmle  took  refuge  upon  a  large  rock  in  the  corner 
of  the  pit,  where  she  remained  for  three  days.  Pressed  by 
hunger,  she  descended  and  was  furiously  assailed  by  the  male 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  175 

bear.     In  aU(Mnp(in«-  <o  soparah'  iho  .on.hataMts  tho  1-     . 
-laboml  tho  h<.a<,  of  tho  n.alo  with  iron  „.;'';''"'" 

belli"'  HO  iniich  tU'wl-.n.  n....    *^i  '     "'  '''*   ''<»"oh 

Mo«;  w..,..:  ;;„:.;.! -i;;'. """  ""«'•  •" "» "'""-•.>•  '"■".■,  m..!.. 

<'ontilMlill<>    to    NDOIul    liiu    fur,,     ii. 

INTO    STRIPS    OF    BLEEDINO    FLESH 

;:;ix  nr::"::';:;;.;'""^;:;:'  ."-■  r-"  >''"■  --o^  .„ ,. 

»l>"t.s.     But  three  Ari^H,  '■'"♦»'■""«  *«„  ,„•  three  br„«n 

was  thi,.k  and  soft   am    T"  '"""'  """""'■    '"""  ""•  "<  ""■«' 

'--"in" an.. « fer:;„r ;': ;:;:  ,t.r::';'  -'f "™"-  •^" 
■'"i.n  ^'ottre,,,  ji:,,,:"  /  '  t ■^,;.':  .-'trj;;.  -^ <■  .-^  •'"-- 

«n.i  drifted  with  it  fo,rt*  d ;  ^  zr'  "7^  "•'■  *""  ■•- 

"'•■-.V'tostra    il^th    ,:::'S  *"■•'"''  '-:--    -■"'    *l- 
l"«h  tide.     Both  shins  nldrif,  ■■"  •'"'^"'"  '""■«'  ""  ^'i"' 

'i"  they  ground:  *'■;;:  <Vi;^r,;\f,7:°  *""  in.et  with  the  iee 

-™.^ed  and  four  „  Uept  z^^z::^:;^ ::::;::: 


176 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE: 


licr  <»f  wtitor.  Tlicy  were  iijiiiiii  (loiih'd  on  lii^li  (idr,  but  the 
"Fury"  was  a  Korond  linn-  diivcii  «>ii  Hlioif,  and  a  .scroiid  lime 
^oth'ii  olT.  \'ari<»iiH  atlcmplM  wcic  now  made  to  I'cpaii*  licr, 
until,  on  tli(>  21st,  a  <;al<'  drove  lior,  tor  a  third  tinu',  upon  (he 
siiorc.  Nor*'  Parry  nductantly  abandoned  lici',  and  says: 
"I']v('iy  endeavor  ol  ours  to  <i,et  her  oil",  or  if  ji'ot  olT,  to  th)at  her 
to  any  known  phiee  of  safety,  wouhl  be  at  (►nee  utterly  hope- 
less in  itself  and  productive  of  extreme  risk  to  our  reinaiinn;; 
ship." 

Incessant  efforts  to  save  her  had  been  continued  for  twen- 
ty-tivedays.     She  was  left  alone  Just  north  of  Cicswell  Hay. 

The  "ilecla"  now  nuide  her  way  to  Xeill's  llarb<U',  a  little 
south  of  Port  Itoweii,  where  she  was  ]>nr  in  readiness  for  re- 
crossing;  the  Atlantic.  While  here,  John  l*aj;e,  a  seaman  from 
the  "Fury,"  died  and  was  buried  with  due  respect.  Puttinj;  to 
sea  on  August  .'»lst,  the  "Ilecla"  was  in  liaffin's  Bay  by  Sej)- 
tembei-  7th.  Il(>re  from  thirty  to  fcuty  iceberg's  at  least  2t)0 
feet  in  heijiht  were  sij;hted  on  its  eastern  side  in  latitude  l't° 
.'50'.  The  "ilecla"  continued  toward  England  by  way  of  the 
Orkney  Islands  and  ari'ived  in  the  Thames  on  tho  20th  of  Oc- 
tober, but  two  men  havinj;  been  lost  during  tho  entire  voyuj;v 
(►f  both  vessels. 


SNOW  VILLAUE. 


Turf  and  Stone  Huts.-^Upernavik. 
(See  pages  i«t,  lOO,  i-tc.) 


N 

.•1. 

!  1 

wKmiammM 

m    ■ 

i 


-■-■-rnm 
[h"  " 

«    Willi 


lii-il 


•  -^'■■* 


:A— *» 


t^  i/'ht>-i^ 


yL:. 


(See  Chaptor  XXIX.) 


OR,   LIFE   IN  THE  GREAT    WHITE    WUrtLD, 


177 


OHAPTEU  XL 

FRANKLIN'S  SECOND  EXPEDITION  AND  THE  \-OYAG£ 

OF  THE  "IJLOSSOM." 

ii„  hT  ^''-.^fr  ^^"^''^  "<■«  b'^eamo  the  wa(ch«„rU»  of  Frank- 

THE    DYING   WIFE 

of  Franklin  had  presented  him  with  a  sni-ill  ^ill-  fln        .  •  , 

sta  ed,  whence  the  entire  party  pushed  on  to  Fort  0.1^^ 
on  the  west  end  of  Lake  Vthih.L.n  v  •  •  u  ^'"I*^^^3«"i, 
middle  of  Tnlv  T<v  1  '^['^'^  ^'•*^'^-  Arriving  here  about  the 
muKi  e  of  Jul^,  franklin  obtained  a<lditional  supplies  and  p,. 
mo.}  the  services  <,f  some  of  the  Indians  wh<,  lu  d T  clpl^^^^^^^^ 
B    /lI'  Pjvious  Mirne,,  and  then  proceeded  toZ'o" 

FORT   PRANKLTN. 

Wbiie  Lieutenant  Back  and  Mr.  Dease,  an  officer  of  the 


HI 


1.78 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


JIudson'8  Bay  Company,  were  engaged  in  the  work  of  thus  ar- 
ranging for  the  winter,  Dr.  Richardson  was  sent  to  locate  a 
suitable  point  upon  the  Coppermine  to  which  he  should  ascend 
from  the  mouth  of  that  river  in  the  course  of  the  followinu 
summer,  while  Franklin  and  a  small  party  made  a  preliminary 
descent  of  the  Mackenzie  to  its  mouth.  Says  Franklin:  "Im- 
mediately on  reaching  the  sea,  1  caused  to  be  hoisted 


t 


THE    SILK    FLAG 

which  my  deeply-lamented  wife  had  made  and  presented  to  me 
as  u  parting  gift,  under  the  express  injunction  that  it  was  not 
to  be  unfurled  until  the  expedition  reached  the  sea.  I  will 
not  attempt  to  describe  my  emotions  as  it  expanded  to  the 
breeze;  however  natural  ajid  irresistible,  I  felt  that  it  Avas 
my  duty  to  suppress  them,  and  that  I  had  no  right  by  an  in- 
dulgence of  my  own  sorrows  to  cloud  the  animated  counte- 
nances of  my  companions.  Joining,  therefore,  with  the  best 
grace  I  could  command,  in  the  general  excitement,  I  endeav- 
ored to  return  with  corresponding  cheerfulness  their  warm 
congratulations  on  having  thus  planted  the  British  flag  on 
this  remote  island  of  the  Polar  Sea." 

Franklin  returned  to  winter-quarters  on  the  5th  of  Sep- 
tember, from  which  time  forward  exploration  was  confined  to 
territory  near  at  hand  and  until  the  28th  of  June  following, 
on  which  date  Franklin  and  Back,  with  two  boats  and  four- 
teen men,  and  Dr.  Kichardson  and  Lieutenant  Kendall,  with 
two  boats  and  ten  men,  began  the  descent  of  the  Mackenzie, 
at  the  delta-like  mouth  of  which  they  separated  on  the  3d  of 
July,  Richardson  and  Kendall  proceeding  eastward  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Coppermine,  while  Franklin  and  Back  directed 
their  course  westward  in  the  hope  of  effecting  a  junction  witli 
Captain  Beechey,  who  had  been  despatched  in  the  "Blossom," 
by  way  of  Cape  Horn  and  Bering  Strait,  with  instructions  to 
proceed  thence  eastward  in  the  endeavor  to  meet  Franklin. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  Franklin's  detachment  fell 


OR.   LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE   WORLD.  179 

ill  With  a  large  party  of  Eskimos,  who,  seizing  Franklin,  held 
Liiu  fast  while  his  °  ' 

BOAT   WAS   PILLAGED. 

Fortunately,  Back  came  upon  the  scene,  and,  ordering  his  men 
to  take  aim  with  their  muskets,  the  natives  sued  for  peace  and 
averted  bloodshed. 

Continuing  westward  to  longitude  149°  37'  west,  and  failing 

to  meet  with  any  of  Captain  Beechey's  party,  although  at  that 

tmie  Mr.  Elson,  leading  a  detachment  from  the  "Blossom,"  was 

riot  distant  160  miles,  Franklin  decided  to  retrace  his  course 

r  r'  ?u^^''  influenced  to  take  this  step  through  hearing  that 

traced  m  -f '  '"/""'  """  ^"^^^^"^  ^"«  -^---  ^^^^^^ 
tiaced  374  miles  of  coast.  Ascending  the  Mackenzie,  he  ar- 
rived at  headquarters  September  30th 

Richardson  and  Kendall  had  reached  there  on  the  first  of 
the  month.     They  had,  after  leaving  the  mouth  of  the  Macken 
zie,  proceeded  500  miles  eastward  through  Dolphin  and  Union 
Strait  named  after  their  boats,  into  Coronation  Gulf,  the'^ 
let  of  the  Coppermine,  thus  adding  to  the  charts  902  miles  of 

prm.  ir*  ^rr.^'°^^  ''''  Ooppermme,  they  arrived  at  Fort 
rranklin,  as  stated. 

Here,  although  the  weather  was  intensely  cold,  the  ther- 

\mter— 1826-  (—was  spent  in  good  cheer  and  good  health.    Dr 

nolT^r  ?H  7  ^r'T"  ^°  ^'""''''^^  geology,  while  Mr.  Drum-' 
nioud  contributed  information  on  natural  history.  Living  in 
a  lonely  hut  on  the  Rocky  Mountains,  he  contrived,  in  the 
course  of  the  winter,  to  collect  more  than  200  specimens  uf 
ammals  birds,  etc.,  and  to  gather  more  than  1,500  plants,  many 
which  had  not  been  classified  before.     The  results  of  the 

xpedit.on  were  gratifying  beyond  expectation,  and  the  party 

letnrned  to  England  in  the  summer  of  1827 

fh.^'^'f  Parry  was  searching  for  the  N,)rtliwest  Passage  for 

third  time,  and  endeavors  to  communicate  with  him  bv 

tl.o  Richardson  and  Kendall  detachment  of  Franklin's  second 

'a.t  of  U^  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  Franklin  and  Back 


I 


180 


THE   SEARCH    FOR   THE   NORTH    POLE; 


were  striving  to  effect  a  junction  to  the  westward  of  the  mouth 
of  that  stream,  with  Captain  F.  W.  Beechey,  Avho,  in  the  gun- 
ship  "Blossom,"  had  been  despatched  in  May,  1825,  by  way  of 

BERING'S   STRAIT, 

in  order  to  replenish  the  supplies  of  both  Franklin  and  Parry, 
should  they  succeed  in  reachin*;  those  waters.  Although  bul 
twenty-nine  years  of  age,  Beechey  had  seen  service  with 
Franklin  in  1818  and  Parry  in  181D,  and  was  well  qualitied 
for  his  task. 

On  the  28th  of  June,  1820,  the  "Blossom"  anchored  oil' 
Petro-paul-owsky,  in  Kamchatka,  where  he  met  Baron  Wran- 
gc'll,the  great  Arctic  sledge  traveler,  from  whom  he  learned 
of  l*arry's  return  to  England. 

Coasting  northward,  the  towering  peaks  of  the  peninsula, 
twenty-eight  of  them  active  volcanoes,  were  in  plain  view. 
Covered  with  snow,  and  many  of  them  raising  their  fantastic 
summits  from  10,000  to  10,500  feet  high,  huge  columns  of  dark 
smoke  waved  and  rolled  like  so  many  giants'  banners  in  the 
air. 

Pressing  on  through  the  strait,  he  reached  the  appointed 
rendezvous  at  Chamisso  Island,  in  Kotzebue  Sound,  on  the 
25th  of  July.  Here,  on  Puffin  Kock,  a  barrel  of  flour  was  bur- 
ied, and  then  followed  the  surveying  and  (examining  of  the 
coast  lying  to  the  northeast.  Posts  and  other  landmarks  were 
erected  and  dispatches  for  Franklin  deposited. 

A  barge,  or  small  boat,  had  been  despatched  under  Messrs. 
Elson  and  Smyth,  to  keep  close  to  the  shore  the  better  to 
observe  any  traces  of  Franklin's  party.    On  August  25th 

A   REMARKABLE    AURORA   BOREALIS 

was  observed,  and  Beechey  thus  speaks  concerning  it: 

"It  first  appeared  in  an  arch  extending  west-by-north  to 
northeast;  but  the  arch,  shortly  after  its  first  appearance, 
broke  up  and  entirely  disappeared.    Soon  after  this,  however, 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  m 

a  now  display  began  in  tbo  direction  of  the  western  f,K>t  ot 
tl.e  hrst  areh,  preceded  by  a  bright  flame,  from  whUbemZ 
.mted  coruscations  of  a  pale  straw  color.    Another  sfrnX 
nco  IS  movement  occurred  at   both  extremities  of  *" 
"t.l  a  complete  segn.ent  was  formed  of  waveriug  pe r^en  i  ! 
"lar  radn.    As  soon  as  the  arch  was  complete  the  iTght  l^^^nl 
great  .y  increased,  and  the  prismatic  ..olors,  wl,i,.h1,ad  beCe 
l«  en  famt,  now  shone  forth  in  a  brilliant  mann,.r.    The  str,    " 
..»t  colors  Which  were  also  the  outside  ones,  wer<   pi,  k  S' 
gieen,  on  the  green  side  pnrpl,.  and  pink,  al    of  wh  cl   we  ^ 
as  imperceptibly  blended  as  in  the  rainbow.    The  •  r     ,  wa 
he  color  nearest  the  .enith.    This  magniti.-ent  disp1  I   as  ed 
a  few  minutes;  an,l  the  light  ha.l  nearly  vanished  win  t, 
northeast  quarter  sent  forth  a  vigorous'displa;   and  i  ear 
t  the  same  time  a  .-orresponding  cornscatioi  emanatedZn 
he  opposite  extremity.     The  western  foot  of  the  arch  t  en 
<I.sengaged  itself  from  the  hori.on,  cro„k«l  to  the  n  r    warT 
an.l  the  who  e  retire,!  to  the  northeast  quarter,  where  a  bi"^ 
spot  blamed  for  a  moment,  and  all  was,  darkn-ss.    There   v's 
no   noise   audible   during   anv   nart    ,.f   „■■,.  ""^f<^  «•'" 

Strnnipoiv  t„„  t,  ^   ^  '""^   observations." 

On  the  28th  the  "Blossom"  returned  to  Chami.s..o  Islaml 

ted  b  ;;"  *":.'«'^^<'' "'  «"•"•  "•■"'  been  dug  up  and  a  ^r, ! 
p  lated  by  the  natives,  neechey  had  met  some  of  these  peo- 
P  e  as  he  enteml  the  strait.  They  were  very  familiar  with 
111.'  region,  and  with  a  stick  designate,!  upon  the  sand  the 
.•eas    ine  as  far  as  C^pe  Krnsenstern,  regulating  distan,-es  by 

<  day  s  journey.  RIevations  of  sand  or  stones  represented 
liiMsand  ran8,.s  of  mountains,  w "colle,tions  of  p,.bbles  indi- 

I,wu®"v'n  "'  '"'■■";"'*'  *"""'•  ^•''■''""'  '''"■'"'  brfns  «.refnllv 
1, 1^;.     'i  "'""  """  ««"'"«■»*«'-'>»  "1-'"K  the  coast  wer,. 

th,  pol.s  erect,.d  wherever  these  people  have  their  abode 

Moan  •v!.ile,  Els,.n  an,l  Smyth  ha.l  a,lvan,.e,l  n„rth,.astwar,l 
m  .1,  n  the  22,1  their  prog.vss  was  sto„pe,l  by  a  long  point 
"f  land,  named  by  lieechey,  I'oint  Kari-ow.    They  were  then 


■.ii  i 


182 


THK   SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


but  14<l  miles  Itojm  licturii  Uccf,  wlicncc  Fmnklin  had  set  oiil 
on  his  retui'ii  to  Fort  Eutorpi'isc,  but  four  days  previous. 

THE    HOSTILE   ATTITUDE 

of  the  natives  now  prevented  Elson's  farther  progress,  and 
he  and  his  seven  companions  therefore  retraced  tlieir  course, 
rejoininjj;  the  "Blossom"  on  the  Dth  of  September  at  Chamisso 
Island.  1  lere  Beechey  ajjjain  buried  a  barrel  of  flour  for  Frank- 
lin and,  with  but  five  weeks'  provisions  remaininj«-,  sailed  lor 
California,  and  the  Sandwich  and  other  islands  of  the  Pacilic, 
where  he  resui)plied  the  "Blossom"  and  I'eturned  to  Chamissd 
Island  on  July  5,  1827. 

The  flour  and  dispatches  deposited  the  previous  year  had 
not  been  molested.  lieutenant  Helcher  was  sent  with  the 
baro-e  to  explore  the  coast  to  the  northward,  but  the  boat  was 
wi'ecked  and  three  of  the  men  were  lost.  On  the  Dth  of  Se]»- 
tember,  the  "Blossom"  went  aground,  but  was  got  off  safely 
at  high  tide.  On  the  29th  a  conflict  ensued  between  the  shii)'s 
crew  and  the  Eskimos,  in  which  seven  of  the  whites  were 
wounded  with  arrows, and  one  Eskimo  was  killed.  On  the  6th  of 
October,  the  "Bloss(un"  sailed  from  Chamisso  Island,  roundinj,' 
('ape  Horn  in  a  snow-storm  on  the  last  day  of  June,  182.S, 
and  arrived  in  England  on  the  12th  of  October  following,  after 
an  absence  of  nearly  three  years  and  five  mouths.  Franklin 
had  preceded  him  a  year. 


.     LAMP. 

Tht  mending  dooe  bj  Ecklmot. 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE   GRFjAT    WHITE    WOULD. 


]8;{ 


CHAPTER  XII. 

PARRY'S   FOURTH    VOYAGE. 

Althoujrh  but  a  f(Mv  luoiitlis  homo  hum  his  third   \rctic 

v.,yng(s    Parry,    in    LS2(;,    struck    with    tii(.    suj;-.  stions    of 

Seoresby  in  a  paper  rc^ad  before  tlie  Werueriau  Society  and 

H<'  plan  of   Franklin  proposc-d  some  time  previous,  ottered 

MS  services  to  the  Admiralty  to  undertake  a  fourth  vovaj-v, 

this  time  in  quest  of  the 

NORTH    POLE. 

by  way  of  the  Spitzber-en  ^voup  of  islands.  True  to  their 
ycunj.-  leader,  and  sharino-  his  enthusiasm,  his  former  eom- 
pan.ons  j,athered  round  his  standard.  Tiu^se  were  Lieut^-nants 
J.  (  .  Koss,  ImUn;  liird,  and  ('ro/.ier,  and  M(^ssrs.  Malse  and 

On  the  lJ)th  Ilammerfest  Harbor  was  reached,  and  here 

Parry  and  Lieutenant  Foster  remained  to  prose^-ut:  ma  leH c 

and   other  scientifi<-  studies,  while   Licuh'nanI    (Vozei    ^     - 

...'ded  to  Alten,  sixty  miles  distant,  to  procure  reindeei   e  Xt 

f  which  were  purchased  for  the  purpose  of  <lrawinV  ^he 

.sledjves  over  the  ice  of  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

Concerning  these  animals,  Parry  thus  writes- 
"Nothins  can  be  nu.re  beautiful  than  th,>  training  of  the 
Lapland  reindeer.     With  a  simple  collar  of  skin  ar^mnd  Is 
neck,  a  single  trace  of  the  same  material  attac-hed  l" 

«ses  and  passing,  between  his  le,s,  and  one  rein  fastened 
like  a  halter  about  his  neck,  this  intelligent  and  docile  anima 


184 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


is  perfectly  under  the  eonimand  of  an  experienced  driver,  and 
performs 

ASTONISHING    JOURNEYS 

over  the  softest  snow.  VVlien  the  rein  is  thrown  over  on  the  olT 
side  of  the  auinial,  he  immediately  sets  of.  at  a  full  trot,  ami 
stops  short  the  instant  it  is  thrown  back  to  the  near  side. 
Shakin}^  the  rein  over  his  back  is  the  only  whip  that  is  re- 
quired. In  a  short  time  after  setting  off  they  appear  to  be 
gaspinj^  for  breath,  as  if  quite  exhausted;  but,  if  not  driven 
too  fast  at  first,  they  recover,  and  then  j»o  on  without  difficulty. 
The  quantity  of  clean  moss  considered  reciuisite  for  each  <le('r 
per  day  is  four  pounds;  but  they  will  go  five  or  six  <lays  with- 
out provender  and  not  suflier  materially.  As  long  as  they  can 
pick  up  snow  as  they  go  along,  which  they  like  to  eat  quite 
clean,  they  require  no  water,  and  ice  is  to  them  a  comfortable 

bed." 

Again  setting  sail  on  the  2nth,  they  arrived,  on  May  5th, 
in  latitude  73°  30',  and  longitude  7°  28'  east,  where  they  met 
loose  ice.  Two  days  later  the  "Ilecla"  had  made  110  miles 
farther  northward,  in  latitude  74°  55',  and  a  few  miles  east  of 
the  meridian  of  (Greenwich.  Here  was  met  a  continuous  stream 
of  ice.  On  the  10th,  Parry  fell  in  with  some  whaling-vessels 
which  were  endeavoring  to  reach  latitude  78°,  south  of  which 
it  was  not  expected  that  whales  could  be  found.  During  the 
night  the  "Ilecla"  and  the  whalers  made  fifty  miles  north- 
ward. On  the  14th  the  "Ilecla"  passed  Magdalena  Bay,  and, 
arriving  off  Hakluyt  Headland,  worked  thence  southeastward 
to  Smerenburg  Harbor,  which  they  found  completely  frozen 
over.  Here  they  saw  walruses,  dovekies  and  eider-ducks  in 
vast  numbers.    Four  wild  reindeer  came  to  them  on  the  ice. 

May  22d,  Lieutenant  James  C.  Koss,  with  officers  and  men, 
effected  a  landing  over  the  ice,  and,  upon  a  hillock,  found  two 
lonely  graves  dated  1741  and  1702.  A  quantity  of  fir  drift- 
wood was  also  seen. 

Five  days  later  an  attempt  was  made  to  proceed  nortli- 
ward  by  means  of  the  sledge-boats,  but  was  given  up  on  ac- 
count of  the  extreme  roughness  of  the  ice.    On  the  29th  and 


OR,    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE   WORLD. 


186 


:{()tli,  LitMiti'iiaiitH  Foster  and  (Vozicr  dcpositnl  a  boat-load  of 
l)n)visioiis  on  lied  Hoach,  six  iiiilcs  distant. 

Hy  the  first  of  June,  as  Parry  was  abont  to  undertake 
a};ain  the  journey  northward,  the  "Ilechi"  be;;an  to  move  east 
with  the  drift-ice  and  readied  Mussel  liay  on  the  (Ith,  where 
Parry  and  others  Umded  to  (ieposit  provisions.  Two  days 
later  the  vessel  was  again  free  of  ice  by  reason  of  a  south 
wind.  Duriu};  the  three  weeks  previ«)U8  the  weather  had  been 
beautiful,  day  after  day  beinj;  clear  and  cloudless,  with  scarcely 
any  wijid,  the  temperature  of  the  air  bein<»  warm,  while  the 
sun  was  scorching. 

On  June  3d  a  shower  of  rain  fell,  and  on  the  (Jth  it  rained 
(juite  hard  for  two  or  three  hours. 

From  the  8th  to  the  10th  the  weather  was  "thick,"  and 
Parry  made  for  Brandywine  Bay,  with  Low  and  Walden 
islands  in  sight.  Thence  the  "Ilecla"  pushed  northward  to 
M0°  43'  32",  the  Seven  Islands  being  seen  to  the  east,  while 
the  Little  Table  Island,  a  mere  crag  400  feet  high,  was  visible 
nine  or  ten  miles  to  the  east-northeast.  "This  island,"  writes 
Parry,  "being  the  northernmost  known  land  in  the  world, 
naturally  excited  much  of  our  curiosity;  and  bleak  and  barren 
and  rugged  as  it  is,  one  could  not  help  gazing  at  it  with 
intense  interest." 

At  midnight,  on  the  14th,  the  explorers  were  in  latitude 
sr  5'  32",  and  longitude  19°  34'  east.  Doubling  back  they 
deposited  provisions  on  Walden  and  Little  Table  islands.  Pro- 
ceeding still  southward  they  arrived  on  the  20th  near  Ver- 
],.gen  Ilood-so  called  by  the  Dutch-but  named  by  Parrv 
Ilecla  Cove.  This  was  in  latitude  79°  55',  and  longitude  10°  49' 
east.  From  this  harbor  two  boats,  the  "Enterprise"  and  "En- 
deavor," were  made  ready  for  another  attempt  to  proceed 
northward.  Parry  and  Dr.  Beverly  accompanied  one  of  the 
boats,  while  Lieutenant  Boss  and  Mr.  Bird  went  with  the 
other.  Lieutenant  Crozier  accompanied  the  party  with  a 
supply  of  provisions  as  far  as  Walden  and  Low  islands  \r- 
nving  at  Little  Table  Island  on  the  23d,  Parrv,  at  10:30  p  m 
started  o^^  the  memorable  journey  that  established  the  then 


186 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


I '' 


"raidicst  iKH'Ui."  liy  iiiulnij^lil  the  \niv\y  had  attained  lall- 
tiidc  .sir  51'  l.r,  and  bv  noon  of  the  24tli,  latitndc  HV  12'  51". 
Not  nntil  a  month  lator,  viz.,  on  Jnly  2;{d,  did  tlicMo  pcrHiHtcnl 
uwu  attain  the  farthest  northerly  point  then  reaelied  by  man, 
82°  45'.  In  making;  this  journey  tliey  had  been  absent  tldrty- 
tiiree  <lays,  and  what  they  encountered  Ih  best  told  in  the 
Ianj>uaj»e  of  tlu>  never-diHcouraj^cd  l*arry:  "Travelinji;  by 
nij^jit,  and  slee|)injn'  by  day,  so  completely  inverted  the  natural 
order  of  thinj;s  that  it  was  <litticult  to  ixu'suade  ourselves  of  the 
reality.  Even  the  olTlcers  and  myself,  who  were  all  furnished 
with  pocket  chronometers,  could  not  always  bear  in  mind  at 
what  part  of  the  twenty-four  hours  we  had  arrived,  and  there 
were  several  of  the  men  who  declared,  and  1  believe  truly,  that 
they  never  know  niyht  from  d^iy  durinj;'  the  whole  e.xcui'Kion. 

"When  we  rose  in  the  evenin{»',  we  commenced  our  day  by 
prayers,  after  which  we  took  olT  our  fur  sleepinj»-dresses  and 
put  on  clothes  for  tiavelinj;';  the  former  bein^'  nuide  of  camlet, 
lined  with  raccoon  skin,  and  the  latter  of  stronjjf  blue  cloth. 
We  made  ii  point  of  always  putting  on  the  same  stockings 
and  boots  for  traveling  in,  whether  they  had  been  dried  dur- 
ing the  day  or  not,  and  I  believe  it  Avas  only  in  live  or  six 
instances  at  the  most  that  they  were  not  either  still  wet  or 
hard  frozen.  This,  indeed,  was  of  no  consecpience  beyond  the 
discomfort  of  first  putting  them  on  in  this  state,  as  they  were 
sure  to  be  thoroughly  wet  in  a  (luarter  of  an  hour  after  com- 
mencing our  journey;  while  on  the  other  liand^  it  wan  of 
vital  importance  to  keep  dry  things  for  sleejung  in.  Being 
'rigged'  for  traveling,  we  breakfasted  upon  warm  cocoa  and  bis- 
cuit, and  after  stowing  the  things  in  the  boats  and  on  the 
sledges  so  as  to  secure  them  as  much  as  possible  from  wet,  we 
set  off  on  our  day's  journey,  and  usually  traveled  four,  five,  or 
even  six  hours,  according  to  circumstances." 

Malting  early  in  the  morning  for  rest,  "Every  man  then 
immediately  put  on  dry  stockings  and  fur  boots,  after  which 
we  set  about  the  necessary  repairs  of  boats,  sledges,  or  clothes, 
and  after  serving  the  provisions  for  the  succeeding  day,  we 
went  to  supper.    Most  of  the  officers  and  men  then  smoked 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


1S7 


ilu'lr  i)ipc«H,  which  Horved  to  dry  tho  boatH  smd  awnlnRH  v<M'y 
iiiiuh,  and  UNually  raiHc*!  tho  tciiipcniturc  of  our  l<)dj;inj«s  10' 
or  15°.  This  i)art  of  the  tw(Mi<y-four  hours  was  oflcn  a  (Inic, 
and  tJK'  only  one,  of  real  onjoynicnt  to  us;  the  men  told  their 
storic'8  and  fought  all  their  battles  o'er  aj-ain,  and  the  laborH 
of  the  day,  unsuccessful  as  they  too  often  were,  were  forfjjot- 
(cn.  A  re}j;ular  watch  was  set  durinj»-  our  resting;  tinie,  to 
look  out  for  bears,  or  for  the  ice  breakin*;'  up  round  us,  as  well 
as  to  attend  to  the  dryinjjf  of  the  clothes,  each  man  alternately 
takinjr  this  duty  for  one  hour.  We  then  concluded  our  day 
with  prayers,  and  havinj^-  put  on  our  fur  dresses,  lay  down  to 
sleep  with  a  dej-ree  of  comfort  which  perhaps  but  few  per- 
.sons  would  imaj«ine  i)ossible  under  such  circumstances,  our 
(•hi<'f  inconvenience  beinj,^  that  we  were  somewhat  pinched  for 
room,  and  therefore  obliged  to  stow  rather  closer  than  was 
quite  agreeable." 

On  the  day  following  their  attainment  of  the  farthest  north. 
Lieutenant  Koss  killed  a  she  bear,  the  flesh  of  which  was 
eagerly  eaten  by  the  meat-hungry  men.  Thus  far  animal  life 
appeared  to  be  scarce,  a  single  gull,  a  S(ditary  rotge,  two  seals, 
and 

TWO   FLIES 

being  all  that  they  had  seen  during  the  entire  outward  journey. 
Owing  to  the  drifting  of  the  ice,  the  party  were  at  tliis  tinie 
being  carried  backward  faster  than  they  could  advance  north- 
ward, and,  accordingly,  Parry  began  the  return  journey  on 
July  27th,  arriving  finally,  on  the  21st  of  August,  once  more 
on  board  the  "llecla,"  after  an  absence  of  sixty-one  days,  dur- 
ing which  time  they  had  traveled,  all  told,  1,127  statute  miles. 
.On  the  return  journey  an  abundance  of  animal  life  was  visible. 
Oil  August  8tli  seven  or  eight  narwhales  were  seen,  and  not 
less  than  200  rotges,  or  little  auks,  a  flock  of  which  occurred 
in  every  hole  of  water.  On  the  Hth,  in  latitude  81°  30',  the 
sea  was  observed  to  be  croAvded  Avith  shrimps  and  other  sea 
crustaceans,  on  which  numerous  birds  were  feeding. 

T^eturning  to  England  in  Bcptomber,  Tarry  retired  from 


M 


188 


TIIK    SHARCH    FOR   THM    NORTH    POLE; 


AiTtic  Hci'vicc,  lliouj';li  alwiiyM  taking  j;i('at  iiilcrcst  in  even- 
(Inn;;  thai  pcilaint'tl  to  the  Holutiou  of  (lit'  problt'iu  for  vvhicli 
he  had  luado  tlvo  voyuj?t'8,  in  four  of  wliicli  \w  lia<l  coniniandcd, 
and  in  the  other  one  had  been  second  in  command.  Ah  hite 
a.s  1845  we  find  him  aihlreHsinj;  Sir  John  Harrow  aH  IoIIowh: 

"It  is  evident  tliat  the  cuuHes  of  failure  in  our  former 
attemi)t,  in  th<'  year  1827,  w<'re  principally  two:  tirst,  and 
chiefly,  the  broken,  ni<;<>v(l,  and  soft  state  of  1  he  ice  over  which 
we  traveled;  and  secondly,  the  drifting;  of  the  whole  body  of 
ice  in  a  sojitherly  direction. 

"My  amended  plan  is  to  fto  out  with  a  single  ship  to  Hpitz- 
berj»('n,  just  as  we  did  in  the  'Ilecla,'  but  not  so  early  in  the 
season;  the  object  for  that  year  belnj;  nun-ely  to  find  secure 
winter  (juarters  as  far  north  as  possible.  For  this  purpose  it 
Avould  only  be  necessary  to  reach  Ilakluyt's  Headland  by  the 
end  of  June,  which  would  afford  ample  leisure  for  examininj; 
the  more  northern  lands,  especially  about  the  Seven  Islands, 
where,  in  all  probability,  a  secure  nook  mij^ht  be  found  for 
the  ship.  »  *  ♦  The  winter  might  be  usefully  employed 
in  various  preparations  for  the  journey,  as  well  as  in  mag- 
netic, astronomical,  and  meteorological  observations,  of  high 
interest  in  that  latitude.  I  propose  that  the  expedition  should 
leave  the  ship  in  the  course  of  the  mouth  of  April,  when  the 
ice  would  i)resent  one  hard  and  unbroken  surface,  over  which, 
as  I  confidently  believe,  it  would  not  be  difficult  to  make  good 
thirty  miles  per  day,  without  any  exposure  to  wet,  and  prob- 
ably without  snow-blindness.  At  this  season,  too,  the  ice 
Avould  probably  be  stationary,  and  t'lus  the  two  great  ditlicul- 
ties  which  we  formerly  had  to  em  ,uuter  would  be  entirely 
obviated.  It  might  form  a  part  of  the  plan  to  push  out  sup- 
plies previously,  to  the  distance  of  100  miles,  to  be  taken  up 
on  the  Avay,  so  as  to  commence  the  journey  comparatively 
light;  and  as  the  intention  would  be  to  complete  the  enter- 
prise in  the  course  of  the  month  of  May,  before  any  disruption 
of  the  ice,  or  any  material  softening  of  the  surface  had  taken 
place,  similar  supplies  might  be  sent  out  to  the  same  distance, 
to  meet  the  party  on  their  return." 


OR.    LIFF3    FN   THE    (iUIflAT    WIIITK    WORLD.  igo 

This  pl„„,  H  sc.MnH  to  M.o  writ,.,-  <.f  Hh-ho  pnp.s,  Ih  a  lmkmI 

<»"•      "";     'I   IH   to   IM.  ,■..,..<,„.,    n.at    tlu.  loUM  .X,HM.UMH..  <,f  tl.e 

.•norget  (•  Parry  n.uNI  not  have  vxvvuiva  \t.  IMm  advaiunl 
vcarH,  (loi.bth.sH,  aloiio  pivvoutcd  hJH  nndcHakii.n  if  TIiIh 
j^allant  kmyht  of  (ho  8ea  and  ice  wui'vlvcd  till  185u. 


GAME  OF  CUP  AND  BALL. 


13 


190 


THE   SEARCH    FOR   THE   NORTH    POLE; 


CIIAPTEIJ  XIII. 

SECOND  VOYAGE  OF  SIR  JOHN  ROSS.— DISCOVERY  Ol' 
THE  NORTH  MAGNETIC  POLE. 

Deeply  cliagiiiUMl  at  tlic  failure  of  his  efforts  iu  1818,  Caj)- 
tain  John  IJoss,  the  pioneer  of  Arctic  exploration  iu  the  nine- 
teenth century,  vainly  endeavored  to  induce  the  government 
to  send  him  again  on  a  polar  voyage.  Notwithstanding  the 
iguomiuy  then  attaching  to  his  professional  name,  for  teu  years 
he  persevered  and  spent  !|ir),()(H)  of  his  own  fortune  in  the 
prosecution  of  his  «)bject.  He  had  fought  with  bravery  and 
skill  during  the  war  with  the  French,  from  1703-1815,  and 
wus  determined  to  win  laurels  as  an  Arctic  explorer  as  well. 

Finally,  he  found  an  able  supporter  in  the  person  of  Felix 
Booth,  a  man  of  wealth  and  i)ublic  spirit.  Through  him,  Koss 
was  enabled  to  purchase  a  side-wheel  steamer  of  150  tons 
burden  and  to  provision  it  for  three  years. 

The  generosity  of  Booth  deserves  double  emphasis  from 
the  fact  that,  at  his  own  re(]uest,  the  Parlianu-ntary  reward  of 
1100,000  for  the  discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage  was  re- 
voked, that  he  might  not  be  charged  with  mercenary  motives. 

Thus  did  Boss  anticipate  the  use  of  steam  in  Arctic  navi- 
gation, this  being  the  first  time  that  a  trial  Avas  nuule  of  11 
for  that  purpose,  and  although  the  uuichinery  in  Boss'  vessel 
was  soon  found  to  be  unserviceable  it  but  served  to  illustrate 
the  utility  of  steam  with  jn'oper  application. 

The  expedition  numbered  twenty-eight  men  and  sailed  on 
board  the  "Victory,"  May  23,  1829.  Previous  to  her  departure 
the  ship  was 

VISITED   BY    MANY    NOTABLES. 

among  them  being  Louis  Philippe,  the  future  king  of  the 
French. 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  19 1 

Arriving  Off  the  coast  of  Greenlnn.l  about  the  middle  of 
June  the  "^  ictory"  p"t  in  at  the  Danish  settlement  of  llol- 
steinberg  where  damaged  spars  and  n^y;iu^  were  repai^-ed. 
^^ain  sailing  on  the  20th,  the  sea  was  found  clear  in  Baffin's 
Bay  Lancaster  Sound,  and  well  down  into  Prince  Keoent's 
Inlet.  Here,  on  August  12th,  a  formidable  barrier  of  ice  was 
<'.u-ountered.  On  the  next  day  the  place  where  the  "Furv"  h,<l 
been  abandoned  four  years  previous,  was  r(«ached,  and  al- 
t  ough  no  traces  of  Parry's  old  ship  were  to  be  found,  her 
stores  sti  1  remained  in  perfect  condition  on  shore.  From  these 
the  \  ictory'  replenished  her  sup,>lies  for  three  years  from 
(late,  besides  leaving  a  considerable  quantity  for  possible  fu- 
ture navigators. 

By  the  end  of  September,  300  miles  of  heivtofore  undis- 
oovered  coast  had  been  explored.  A  landing  having  been 
effected,  the  territory  was  named 

BOOTHIA    FELIX. 

^vitll  Bellot  Strait  on  the  north,  the  (Julf  of  Boothia  on  the 
cast,  and  Franklin  Strait  on  the  northwest. 

Mary  Jones'  Bay  having  been  discovered  on  the  east  coast 
<»f  this  new  territory,  here,  in  Felix  Harbor, 

WINTER-QUARTERS 

were  established  on  September  17,  1S20. 

TlKw  were  soon  frozen  in  and  n'othrug  of  unusual  interest 
<H(i.n'e(.  until,  on  January  0,  1830,  the  ^'Vic-tory"  was  visit(Ml 
l>y  a  very  large  party  of  Eskimos.  They  were  of  neater  ai.- 
IK'arame  than  those  who  had  visited  Parry  farther  south  and 
)vm'  famihar  with  the  geography  (,f  the  regi<,n  in  a  verv 
•atH  .g.ble  u.annc.r.  The  women  displayed  a  higher  degre'e 
of  nilelhgence  m  this  respect  than  the  men.  As  Parrv  met  his 
Is-loo-l.k,  so  Boss  f<nind  his  Te-rik-sin,  as  the  gifted  female 
S<'(.,uTa])hers  of  those  regions. 

On  April  5tl.  Oaptain  Boss,  with  Thomas  Blanky  and  two 
-«lamo  guides,  set  out  to  explore  a  strait  reported  to  lead 


192 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


westward,  ami  Avliicli,  it  was  hoiu'd,  ioniiimiiicated  with  the 
wostci'ii  sea.  On  the  Stli  the  party  cainc  to  a  larj^e  bay  instead, 
aud  this,  facinj*'  west,  opened  into  the  sea.  In  llie  interior,  a 
hirj»('  hike,  ealh'd  Nie-ty-le  by  the  natives,  was  discovered. 
On  this  jonrney  C'aptain  lv<tss,  as  was  afterwards  ascertained, 
approaclied  to  witliinten  niih's  of  tlie  North  Ma}j;netic  Pole. 
Learninji  that  no  strait  existed  farther  soutli,  Ross  nevertlie- 
h'ss  traced  the  coast  abont  sixty  niiU'S  in  that  direction. 

On  tlie  ITth  of  May  i.ieutenant  James  (Marlv  IJoss,  nejuiew 
to  the  Caidain  and  second  in  conunand  of  the  expedition,  set 
ont  Avith  tliree  conii)anions  and  a  sh'do(>  drawn  by  ei.uht  do.ns, 
for  the  purpose  of  niakin.u  exph)rations  farther  west.  Cross- 
\n^  the  ice  on  a  strait,  whicli  lias  since  been  called  in  liis 
honor,  younjj;'  Hoss  discovered  Matty  Island,  aud,  still  farther 
westward,  ' 

KING    WILLIAM'S    LAND, 

reachin};'  its  northernmost  point  on  May  2J>th.  This  he  named 
Cape  Felix,  and  fr<mi  it  beheld,  in  the  northwest,  the  wide  ex- 
panse of  sea  now  known  as  McClintock  Channel,  and,  in  the 
southwest,  a  channel  which  he  called  Victoria  Htrait.  Aloiiji 
this  last  mentioned  he  now  proceeded  to  a  headland  wliidi 
Avas  named  Point  Victory,  a  more  distant  one  beinj^'  honored 
with  the  name  of  Franklin. 

Distant  noAV  200  nnles  from  the  shi])  and  Avith  but  lew 
provisions  U^ft,  this  brave  youn*-  scientist,  after  havin«»'  erected 
a  cairn  and  deposited  therein  the  customary  records,  set  out 
on  the  return.  To  such  straits  Avere  they  now  I'educed  tlial 
six  of  the  dogs  perished  from  exhaustion  and  doubtless  tlie.v 
themselves  Avere  saved  from  the  same  fate  throuj;h  meetiiii; 
Avith  a  tribe  of  Eskimos,  who  supi»lied  them  Avith  fresh  tisli 
and  amon<i'  Avhora  they  rested  a  day  before  proceeding  to  tlie 
ship,  Avhiidi  they  rea«-hed  on  May  13th. 

Not  until  September  17th,  after  an  imiirisonment  of  eleven 
months,  Avas  the  "Victory-'  again  free  of  i<'e.  rnfortuuately, 
she  advanced  but  a  fcAV  miles  Avhen  the  ice  of  another  season 
j„.]d  lier  fnst  and  Avinter  (juarters  Avere  again  made  ready, 


with  (lie 
■  iiistciid, 
itci'ioi',  a 
■^covered, 
crlaiiicd, 
'tic  Pole, 
iievoi'llic- 

)U. 

,   lU'lMlCW 

itiou,  scl 
<;lit  (l()_ns, 
[.  (V(»ss- 
m1  ill  liis 
II  farther 


!io  iiiuncd 
'  wi(U'  ex- 
ul,  ill  the 
\.  Ahinji 
11(1  wliicli 
I,'  hoiioiH'd 

:  but  lew 
i(v  oi'cclcd 
s,  s('(  out 
need  tlial 
th'ss  tlu'V 
I  nu'L'tiiii;' 
fresh  tisii 
iiio-  to  the 

of  idevcii 
I'tuiliitely, 
lei'  season 
(h'  readv, 


(1.)     Ship  "HiickiiiK'    Ice, 


ttal.  hskimo.     (ti.)    An  Ktah  Eskimo.      ^'"  ^"'1' -  I'''',     f'i.)     L.ttl,.  Orpliai,  li.,y  of 


jjj)jj  :.-i"^''. 


(1.)  Till'  Sliii)  ami  Her  Inmno  on  ii  Quiot  Day  in  Mi'lvillr  Hay.  (.;.  i  lei'l)c'i«- 
in  Hatfin's  Hay.  f;i  )  Ballin's  Bay  Ii^pIxtj?.  (4.1  IrclxTi;.  iri.i  Blastini;  the 
(li.l     EskiiimSumniiT  Encampment  i>f  Sealskin  Tents  or '■iM-picks." 


OR.   LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  193 

I.,  til.,  cnsning  »,„.i„o.  „f  jsgi  „  „„„,bp,.  „,  p,  ,,„.i„„  „.. 
"■'■"'  »"<l"'t"l«'",  an,l  i„  o„,.  of  tl, n,„  .vo„„s.v..  l",L    ' 

DISCOVERED    THE    NORTH    MAGNETIC    POLE. 

II."  says:  "The  pla,,.  of  the  observatory  was  as  near  to  the 
-.«i.e tie  pole  a»  the  M,„ite,l  ,„ea„s  whieh  I  possesse,renab  1 
uu-  (o  determine.    TJ,o  amount ,.(  the  .lip,  „.'  i„.lieate,rbv  m 

Ppn,K.|,...,ne,  «as  m'  no',  bein;,.  thus  within  one  m  „„  e  of 
.I"'  "■.■t..-ul;  while  the  p...,ximity,  a,  least,  of  this  pol.        n 
.  s    .tnal  ex,st,.„..e  where  we  stoo,,,  was  further  co.fl  J, 
n  the  a..tion,  or  rather  by  the  total  inaetiou,  .,f  the  severa 
luuizontal  uee.lles  then  in  my  p.,ssessi«n. 

''As  soon,"  he  continues,  "as  I  lui.l  satisfle.1  my  „wn  min.l 
..,1  the  s,U,ject,  I  nnnle  kn.iwn  to  the  party  this  gk.tih  ,  !  r ' 
ul    ..fall  our  j.„nt  lab.,rs;  an.I  it  was  then  that"  amidst  mn- 
liial  .•ouf?ratiilatious.  we  tixe.l  the 

BRITISH    FLAG    ON    THE    SPOT, 

an.I  took  poss..ssiou  of  the  Xorth  Majjueti,.  Pole  an.I  its  a.l- 

::;''"lV"'":*"7  ■"  I -"-'  "f  ''-■'•at  nritaiu  an.l  Kin.  WiL 

i.Nii  I\  .  -rte  had  abuudan.-e  of  niat..rials  for  buil.liu"  in  th.. 
™«n,..n  s  .,f  !i„iest.,„..  tha,  .-ov..,....!  tl„.  ....a.-h,  and    ".  th," 

'"'•'■  ..r..,.t...l  a  ..ai,.,,  .,f  sou,..  ,ua«„it  u.le,  „„,„,.  „:„i,|,  „,,  buri,..l 
.•au,»t..r  .-..ntaiuiuK  »  iv,„r.l  „f  the  iut,.r..»ti„i..  fa.-t,  .,nlv 

.v«-tt,us  w,.  had  no.  th, „  of  ...,ustru..tiujr„  p.vrau  id 

'^^  "ll»  "f  *«>'>■  mi.l  .,f  th,.  Ks.|ui,uanx-.     Ka.l  it  b,.en  •, 

;■"■"","   r  '"T"  "-^  "'"'  '"  •'' !'«■  I  ""■  -t  -luit..  su    .    la 

"""1.1  Have  .1,M,..  mor..  Il,a„  satisfy  our  ambi  i.ui  und..r  tl, 

I'liRs  of  that  ..x.-iii,,^,  ,iay." 

Thus,  ou  III,,  ,„,  of  .T„i„;  ,s;!|,  i„  hiiiiud,.  -0-  .T  ir  n,„i 
..u.,tude  fl.r  4(r  4.r  w..s,,  .ll,,  ,„e  Hriii^h  establish    i      .d,? 
I»N"  t"  a  |.r..at  an.I  imporiaiil  dis,.overv,  aiH.wlial   Miieri 
■■™lni.  tl,..  a..,.o,ints  and  per,.,.ivin«  tl ..  enthusia™         .n 


194         THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 

cousins  on  the  otlior  sldo  of  tho  Atlantic  in  all  such  cnlci' 
prises,  ran  restrain  wishinj;  lor  the 

STARS    AND    STRIPES 

still  }»reater  triumphs? 

On  this  journey  Hoss  was  absent  t\venty-ei}»ht  days. 

Once  more,  on  August  2Sth,  the  "Victory"  stctod  clear  of 
ice  but  was  unable  to  make  good  more  than  four  miles  of  navi- 
gation when,  on  September  27tli,  she  Avas  completely  beset. 
Thus,  In  <wo  years,  she  had  i)rogressed  but  seven  miles. 

A  third  winter  was  accordingly  si)ent  in  the  same  loealily, 
and  when  spring  arrived,  it  was  decided  to  abandon  the  "Vic- 
tory" and,  obtaining  supplies  and  boats  on  Fury  Beach,  (o 
make  for  the  waters  of  liattin's  liay  in  the  expectancy  of  tlu'ie 
meeting  with  some  whaling-vessel.  On  the  28d  of  April,  1S;{2, 
the  jjarty  therefor<'  started  for  the  Beach.  Heavy  laden  and 
enc(Mintering  much  snow  and  drift,  they  were  compelled  to 
make  long  circuits,  so  that  to  gain  thirty  miles  in  a  straigiit 
line  they  were  compelled  to  travel  three  hundred  twenty-nine. 

The  "Victory"  was  not  formally  abandoned,  however,  till 
May  20th,  on  which  date,  with  colors  flying  from  her  mast- 
head, ('a])tain  Hoss  took  leave  of  her,  he  being  the  last  to 
depart,  lie  says:  "It  was  the  first  vessel  that  \  had  ever  been 
obliged  to  abandon,  after  having  served  in  thirty  six,  duriii;; 
a  period  of  forty-two  years.  It  was  like  the  last  parting  wilii 
an  (dd  friend,  and  I  <lid  not  pass  the  point  where  she  ceased 
to  be  visible  without  st<>pping  to  take  a  sketch  of  this  niel- 
ancli(dy  desert,  render<'d  more  melancholy  by  the  solitary, 
abandoned,  helpless  home  of  our  past  years,  tixed  in  immov- 
able ice  till  t'me  should  ])erform  «m  her  his  usual  work." 

On  July  1st  the  entire  party  reached  Fury  Beach,  and, 
erectiuir  a  large  tent,  stvled  it  "Somerset  House."  A  month 
later  they  had  crossed  Prince  Kegent's  Inlet  and  arrived  i'.t 
the  entrance  to  Lancaster  Sound,  whicli  they  found  so  blocked 
with  ice  that  they  were  com])elled  to  return  to  "SonuMset 
House."  This  they  reached  on  October  9th,  and  here  sjjcnt 
a  fourth  winter. 


OR,    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


193 


The  font  wns  i-cndcrcd  more  eeiiifoihible  by  nieanH  of  an 
•Mubankineiit  of  snow  and  an  addllional  stove.  Althouj-h 
theiv  was  a  reduction  of  ti)e  rej.nlar  allowance  of  preserved 
meats,  there  was  ph'nt.y  of  flour,  suj.ar,  soups,  and  vej-etables. 
Dnriu},^  the  winter  Mr.  Thomas,  the  carpenter,  and  two  others 
<lied. 

On  the  8th  of  July  folh)win}.-,  the  party  aj-ain  took  their 
departure  from  "Somerset  Mouse,"  and,  forty-six  days  later 
arrived  in  Baffin's  Hay,  at  Navy  Board  Tnlet.     Here  a  joyful 
suri)rise  awaited  them.    At  4  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  Au^nist 
2()th,  a  vessel  hove  in  si-ht.    (Quickly  (lie  exhausted  men  nmsed 
(hemsehvs  and  spran-  to  their  oars  as  men  escapin-  from 
^reat  peril.     Alas!  like  a  jduintom  the  ship  suddenlv  disap- 
peared in  the  haze  and  they  were  fast  sinking  into'despair 
when  another  vessel  was  espied  lyinj.-  in  a  calm.    With  hearts 
heatinj.-  between  hope  and  fear,  and  their  gaze  steadfastly 
fixed  upon  the  stately  for.n,  they  kept  up  a  hurried  and  ener- 
j-vtic   stroke  of   the   oar    until— with   joy   unbounded— they 
had  reached  the  whaler  "Isabella,"  of  Hull,  the  very  shij)  in 
which   lioss,  fifteen  years  before,   had  made  his  first  polar 
voyage. 

With  diflHculty  were  those  on  board  the  whaler  persua<led 
that  it  was  indeed  Koss  and  his  Ku<>lish  comi)anions  who 
sounht  admission  on  the  shij);  for,  had  they  not  been  mourned 
iis  dead  these  two  years  by  their  friends  in  Enj-land? 

\\'hen,  however,  the  honest  whalers  were  i-onvinced  of  the 
truthfulness  of  their  story,  the  ri^jring  was  (piickly  manned  in 
their  honor,  and  with  three  rousin^  cheers  Captain  Koss  and 
party  were  welcomed  on  board  the  "Isabella."  What  followed 
is  vividly  described  by  IJoss  himself:  "Thoiij;h  we  had  not 
been  supported  by  our  names  and  character's  we  shov.ld  not 
llic  less  have  claimed  from  charity  the  attention  that  we  re- 
ceived; for  never  were  seen  a  more 

MISERABLE    SET    OF    WRETCHES. 

T'nshaven,  since  I  know  not  when,  dirty,  dressed  in  the  rags 
of  wild  beasts,  and  starved  to  the  very  bones,  our  gaunt  au<I 


196 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE: 


grim  looks,  when  contrasted  with  those  of  the  well-dressed 
and  well-fed  men  around  us,  made  us  all  feel— I  believe  for  the 
first  time— what  we  really  were,  as  well  as  what  we  seemed  to 
others.     But  the  ludicrous  soon  took  the  place  of  all  other 
feelings;  in   such  a   crowd   and  such  confusion  all  serious 
thought  was  impossible,  while  the  new  buoyancy  of  our  spiv- 
its  made  us  abundantly  willing  to  be  amused  by  the  scene 
which  now  opened.    Every  man  was  hungry,  and  was  to  be 
fed;  all  were  ragged,  and  were  to  be  clothed;  there  was  not 
one  to  whom  washing  was  not  indispensable,  nor  one  whom 
his  beard  did  not  deprive  of  all  human  semblance.     All— 
everything,  too,  was  to  be  done  at  once;  it  was  washing,  dress- 
ing, shaving,  eating,  all  intermingled.    It  was  all  the  materials 
of  each  jumbled  together,  while  in  the  midst  of  all  there 
were  interminable  questions  to  be  asked  and  answered  on 
both  sides;  the  adventures  of  the  "Victory,"  our  own  escapes, 
the  politics  of  England,  and  the  news,  which  was  now  four 
years  old.    But  all  subsided  into  peace  at  last.    The  sick  were 
accommodated,  the  seamen  disposed  of,  and  all  was  done  for 
us  which  care  and  kindness  ccmld  perform.    Night  at  length 
brought  quiet  and  serious  thought,  and  I  trust  there  was  not 
a  man  among  us  who  did  not  then  express,  where  it  was  due, 
his  gratitude  for  that  interposition  Avhich  had  raised  us  all 
from  a  despair  which  none  could  now  forget,  and  had  brought 
us  from  the  borders  of  a  most  distant  grave  to  life,  and  friends, 
and  civilization.     Long  accustomed,  however,  to  a  cold  bed 
on  the  hard  snow,  or  the  bare  rocks,  few  could  sleep  amid 
the  comforts  of  our  new  accommodations.     I  was  myself  com- 
pelled to  leave  the  bed  which  had  been  kindly  assigned  me, 
and  take  my  abode  in  a  chair  for  the  night;  nor  did  it  fare 
much  better  with  the  rest.     It  was  for  time  to  reconcile  us 
to  this  sudden  change,  to  break  through  what  had  become 
habit,  and  to  inure  us  once  more  to  the  usages  of  our  former 
da  vs." 

By  the  middle  of  October  the  entire  party  were  in  England, 
where  Boss  received  the  freedom  of  her  leading  cities  and 
was  knighted  by  the  king,  and  receivecl  a  grant  of  ^25,000 


OR,    LIFE    IN.  THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


197 


from  Parliament.  In  1851  he  became  Keur  Adniiral.  His  death 
occurred  five  years  later. 

llis  nephew,  James  C.  Ross,  was  promoted  to  a  captaincy, 
and  from  1839  to  1843  condu-ted  the  famous  Antarctic  expedi- 
tion, in  the  course  of  which  he  approached  to  within  KJO  miles 
of  the  South  Magnetic  Pole,  computed  to  be  in  south  latitude. 
m%  and  east  longitude  146°.    He,  too,  was  nmde  a  knight. 


SHOOTINO  THE  FIBST  MUSK-OX,  WEST  COAST  OF  (JBEENLANp. 


/I  M 


198 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

EXPEDITIOXS  OF  CAPTAIN  BACK  AND  MESSRS.  DEASE 

AND  STA1PSON. 

After  liOHH  had  been  absent  for  two  years,  with  no  intel- 
ligeiiee  of  his  wlierea bouts,  Dr.  Jiieliardson  first  directed  public 
atteutiou  towards  liis  probable  fate  and  volunteered  to  go  to 
his  relief.  The  government  was  solicited  to  lend  a  helping 
hand,  but  being  slow  to  act, 

A    POPULAR   SUBSCRIPTION 

was  started,  and  |20,0()0  raised,  to  which  the  government 
added  flO,000.  Captain  Back,  the  veteran  of  two  overland 
journeys  to  the  north  coast  of  North  America  in  company 
with  Franklin  and  Kichardson,  volunteered  his  services,  and 
was  placed  in  command. 

Accompanied  by  Dr.  Richard  King  as  naturalist,  and  three 
men  who  had  been  Avith  Franklin  in  1825,  Back  arrived  in 
New  York  in  the  latter  part  of  March,  1838. 

Proceeding  to  Montreal,  he  then  journeyed  to  Fort  Chip- 
ewyan,  on  the  west  end  of  Lake  Athabasca,  where  he  arrived 
July  20th.  During  this  part  of  the  journey  the  party  were 
dreadfully  tormented  by  sand-flies,  moscjuitoes,  and  horse-flies, 
so  that  their  faces  streamed  with  blood,  the  ensuing  pain  and 
irritation  producing  giddiness  and  causing  them  to  moan  with 
pain  and  agony. 

Leaving  Fort  Chipewyan,  a  journey  of  nineteen  days 
brought  them  to  Fort  Resolution,  on  Great  Slave  Lake.  In 
the  course  of  this  long  march  Rack  was  joined  by  a 

MOTLEY    CROWD 

consisting  of  "an  Englishman,  a  man  from  Stornoway,  two 
Canadians,  two  Mctifs,  or  half-breeds,  and  three  Iroquois  lu- 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  199 

(linns.  Habol  ronld  luX  have  pro.lnco.l  a  wor«o  roufuHi„n  of 
inlun-mon.ons  hou.mIs  H.an  was  the  (.(.mcrsali,.,,  they  kept 
lip.  Ihc  St(nn.,wa.v  nun.  was  A.  K.  Ma.-Lcul,  aud  was  ac- 
n.nipanuMl  by  Ins  wif,',  Hnv."  cl.ihlivi.  and  a  s(M-va..t  He  was 
a>.HMnbor(.fllu.j..vat  MarLcod  fa.nil.v,  Isl,.  of  L.nvis,  ;  .id  wb<i 
iilmijr  u^tb  tlu.  Ma,.A,.Ia.vs,  bav(.  lono.  ,iwHI  si<h.  bv  side  in  t\u' 
tishing  hanih.tsof  Islivi"  and  Hra.nisb,  in  wbid/h.tkT  pbico 
^^anlaj    ""  ^''■''''^■^'■'•"•"■''^'••'^'  ^'^   <''"  *'"n»<'M(    bistonau, 

Sonic  v<.a.-s  sin,(.  it  was  tbo  wi-ltor's  «ood  f<„.t„n<.  to  visil 
tins  loraht.v   as  well  as  the  anci.nl  and  bistori.  Storuoway, 
m  wind.,  winio  v.silino.  ,lM.s<.booI,  was  b-a.-ncd  that  horo  was 
Ixnn    tho    Mf((.,.wards.c(.|(d..af,.d    Sir    Ah-xandcr    Mack(M.zi(. 
whoso  services  we  have  already  n,ention<Ml  in  these,  pao'es         ' 

leaving-  MacLeod  and  all  bnt  fonr  n.en,  (V,ptain  Back  pro- 
•••'•"•lea  in  a  northeast,.rly  di.<.ction  from  F(.rt  Hesolnti...  In 
search  of  the  Tlilew-ee.('h.>h,  or  (Jreat  Fish,  now  called  Back 
iii\'er. 

Forests,  swan.p.s,  porta-vs,  streams,  lakel(4s,  rapids  and 
nisrades  .,n,,edcd  their  pro^.-ess  until,  on  An^ist  27th,  from 
.'  nl  top  Back  saw  the  wide  expanse  of  water  now  known 
as  Lake  Aylnier.  Tw(.  days  later  thn^o  of  Back's  n.en  reached 
Ins  lake  by  means  of  a  canc.e,  while  Back  searche<l  for  and 
..und  Sand  IlUl,  or  Sussex  Lake,  the  source  of  the  great  river 
fowai'd  Avlnch  he  was  traveling. 

Keturnino  to  Great  Slave  Lake,  its  northeastern  extremitv 
was  reached  by  the  middle  of  Sept(M..ber.  Hciv  MacLeod  and 
Piii'ty  had  erected  a  comfortable  bouse,  tiftv  bv  tl.irtv  feet  in 
•I'lnensions,  containing  four  r(,oms,  a  central  hall  where  were 
received  their  Indian  visitors,  and  a  more  rudelv  <onstructed 
Kitchen. 

FORT    RELIANCE 

was  the  name  given  to  the  encami)ment.     Meanwhile,  Dr.  Kii.o 
ainyed  with  a  large  sui)i)ly  of  jm.visions. 

The  winter  was  a  sever.,  one,  the  thermometer  sinking  to 
soventy  degrees  below  z.m-o.  F(,(m1  became  scarce  bnt  ""the 
faithful  Chief  A-kai-tchu  and  his  hardy  hunters  managed  to 


200 


THE   SEARCH    FOU   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


Ht»cui'o  conHldci'nhlc  piiin',  wlilcli  was  <;(>in'i(MiHly  HlianMl  with 
the  Htran};('rH.  "The  ;;r('at  rliicl","  sjiid  Akail«li(),  "InistH  in 
lis,  and  it  \h  bcllcr  llial  (cii  Indians  sliould  pcrlsii  tlian  that  one 
white  man  shouhl  lU'iiHli  tlirongh  our  ncj^ligcncc  and  breach 
of  faith." 

On  February  14,  18:U,  Macl^i'od  moved  liis  fjimily  iiear«'r 
the  huntinj^-j^roiindH,  where  six  of  tlie  natives  nejir  liim  died 
of  starvation,  liis  own  family  barely  escaping;  the  same  fate. 

April  2r)th  a  messenjicr  arrived  at  Fort  Iteliance  annoiinr- 
inp:  the  safe  arrival  of  ('ai»tain  Koss  and  i)arty  in  Fn<;land. 
Says  Itaek:  "In  the  fulness  of  our  hearts  we  assembled  t<»- 
yether  and  humbly 

OFFERED    UP   OUR   THANKS 

to  that  merciful  Providence,  who,  in  the  beautiful  lanj^uajic 
of  Scrii)tnre  hath  said:  'Mine  own  will  1  brin<;'  ajj,ain,  as  1 
did  some  time  from  the  deeps  of  the  sea.'  The  thou^j'hts  of  so 
wondei'ful  a  preservation  overjxiwered  for  a  time  the  common 
occurrences  of  life.  We  had  just  sat  down  to  breakfast,  bul 
our  apix'tites  were  gone,  and  the  day  was  passed  in  a  feverish 
state  of  €»xcitement." 

Captain  Hack  now  <lirected  his  enerj;ies  toward  the  ex]»hi- 
ration  of  the  (Jreat  Fish  Itiver.  lie  sent  in  advance  Mr.  Mac- 
Leod and  family  for  the  purjjose  of  huntinj;  and  depositing; 
the  pime  se<-ured.  On  June  7th  he,  too,  set  out  with  Dr.  Kiiin 
and  five  men  and  soon  came  ui)on  the  boat-builders,  whom  he 
had  also  despatched  in  advance.  Takinj:;  t)ie  best  of  (he  b(>als 
he  had  it  fitted  with  runnel's,  as  Parry  had  done  in  1827. 

On  the  14th,  with  six  do«;s  drawinj;-  the  boat-sledge,  he 
took  a  fresh  start  and  came  upon  a  cache  of  <h'er  and  musk-ox 
flesh.  On  the2r)th  a  second  store  was  met  with,  eleven  animal.s 
having  been  h^ft  in  the  two  (h'jtots. 

That  there  uiight  be  no  partiality  sh(»wn  in  the  matter  oi 
food.  Rack  ordered  that  the  rations  of  himself  and  otlHcers 
should  contain  an  equal  sliar(»  of  the  objectionable  musk-ox 
flesh. 

On  the  27th  MacLeod  was  overtaken,  and  on  the  next  day 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


201 


(ho  boot  was  lauuchod  n[)()U  the  jircnt  river,  MacLeod  and 

lliirteeii   iiien  liaviii};  been  sent    buck   lo   Fort    Kesolutioii  to 

l;ike  cliiirjic  of  HU|)plieH  (o  be  forwarded  from  the  MiidHon  Hay 

Company's  .stations,  to  estjiblisli  a  lisherv,  to  erect  a  suitable 

huihii^iji,  for  winter  (piarters,  and  tlien  to  return  to  tlie  (Jreat 

I'Msh  Kiver  hy  tlie  middle  of  September  to  render  assistance 

to  his  own  party  upon  its  return  to  that  point. 

On  July  Hth,  with   ten  com])anions,  and  ',i,'MO  ])(mnds  of 

provisions.  Hack  started  on  his  voyage  down  the  river.    The 

first  hundred  miles  were  a  series  of  rai)ids  and  cascades.    On 

thel'Sth,  a 

LARGE    TRIBE    OF    ESKIMOS 

was  met  with  and  j^reatly  assisted  them  in  makin«;'  the  last 
lonji'  portajjc  Arrivinji;  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  Back 
descried  a  headland,  to  which  he  gave  the  name  Victoria. 

Thus  the  party  had  descended  a  tortuous  stream  for  5530 
miles,  iuidudinji;  five  large  lakes,  eighty-three  falls,  rapids,  and 
cascades,  and  now  stood  overlooking  a  wide  expanse  of  the 
Polar  Sea,  in  latitude  (JT"  U'  north,  but  thirty-seven  miles 
farther  south  than  the  mouth  of  th<»  Coppermine  River, 

Hack  reached,  as  the  terminus  of  his  voyage,  latitude  08" 
V.V  57",  and  gave  to  the  name  of  a  headland  seen  (m  the  north- 
west shore  of  the  estuary,  in  latitude  (\H°  4(5',  ('ai)e  Richardson. 

Returning,  the  party  arrived  at  the  s()urce  of  the  river  on 
September  Kith,  where  they  met  MacLeod,  with  the  much- 
needed  supplies. 

On  the  27th  all  reached  Fort  Reliance,  wdiere  Back  and 
six  of  the  party  ]mssed  the  winter,  MacLeod  and  all  others 
maintaining  themselves  at  the  fishing-station. 

On  March  21,  1S:{.5,  Captain  Bade  set  out  upon  his  return  to 
FiUgland,  by  way  of  Cana<la  and  New  York,  arriving  in  Liver- 
l>ool  September  Hth,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  two  years  and 
seven  months.  A  month  later  Dr.  King  and  others  arriv<Ml 
by  way  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  route. 

For  his  services  Captain  Back  was  awarded  a  gold  medal 
and  a  post  cai)taincy  in  the  navy. 

Nine  mouths  after  his  return  from  this  journey,  at  the  ' 


i  ■    I 


ill 


III 


1.14 


202 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


II 


siij><»('sti(ni  (if  the  (}('<)nT;»i)hical  Society,  lie  was  aj^aln  sent  out 

IN    THE    "TERROR." 

in  wliicli  he  was  to  proceed  to  Itepulse  Bay,  or  the  Wajicr 
River,  and  thence  to  make  an  overland  jonrney  to  the  bottom 
of  Prince  IJegent's  Inlet  and  to  send  other  j)arties  to  Fiirv 
and  Ilecla  Strait,  and,  if  possible,  to  Franklin's  Point  Turn- 
again. 

Arriving  at  Salisbury  Island,  in  the  northern  part  of  Hud- 
son's Bay,  on  the  14th  of  August  1830,  the  vessel  was  soon 
frozen  in. 

From  December  to  March,  inclusive,  the  "Terror"  drift<Ml 
about  in  a  crazy  and  helpless  manner. 

On  July  10,  1837,  the  ice  put  her  on  her  beam  ends,  in 
which  manner  she  rested  until  on  the  1-ith  she  suddenly 
righted  herself.  The  vessel  had  been  so  greatly  disabled  that 
Captain  Back  returned  at  once  to  England.  The  "Terror," 
however,  was  destined  to  be  heard  of  in  connection  with  an- 
other polar  voynge. 

Sent  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  complete  the  survey 
of  the  north  coast,  left  untouched  by  Franklin,  Beechey  and 
Back  in  their  several  journeys  and  voyages, 

MESSRS.    DEASE    AND    SIMPSON, 

in  July,  1837,  descended  the  Mackenzie  Hiver,  and,  by  August 
4th,  Simpson  had  proceeded  from  Franklin's  Return  Reef  14(1 
miles  westward  to  a  point  just  beyond  Point  Barrow,  whence 
Elson  had  returned  to  the  "Blossom"  in  1820.  Qn  this  journey 
Simpson 

DISCOVERED   THE.  GARRY    AND   COLVILLE    RIVERS. 

Returning  to  the  Oreat  Bear  Lake,  the  winter  was  spent  at 
Fort  Confidence,  and,  on  June  (J,  1838,  the  ascent  of  the  Deasc 
River,  which  empties  into  the  (Jreat  Bear  Lake  from  tho  nortli, 
was  begun.  The  Cop])ermine  was  then  descended  to  its  em- 
bouchure into  (Coronation  Gulf,  which  was  reached  on  the  1st 
of  July.  IlcM'e,  on  one  of  the  Barry  Islands,  some  very  pure 
specimens  of  copper  were  found. 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE     WORLD. 


203 


Just  before  entering-  tlie  gulf,  Escape  liapids  were  run,  and 
that  occurrence  i«  thus  described  by  Simpson;  "A  glance  at 
the  overhanging  dirt'  tohl  us  that  there  was  no  alternative 
but  to  run  down  with  a  full  cargo.     In  an  instant  we  were 

IN    THE    VORTEX; 

and  before  we  were  aware  my  boat  was  borne  toward  an  iso- 
lated rock.,  v/hich  the  boiling  surge  almost  concealed.  To  clear 
it  on  the  outside  was  uo  longer  possible;  our  only  chance  of 
safety  was  to  run  between  it  and  the  lofty  eastern  cliff.  The 
word  was  passi^l,  and  every  br(>atli  was  hushed.  A  stream 
which  daslKMl  down  upon  us  over  the  brow  of  the  precipice 
more  than  a  hundred  feet  in  height,  mingled  with  the  spray 
that  whirled  upward  from  the  rapid,  forming  a  terrific  shower- 
bath.  The  pass  was  about  eight  feet  wide,  and  the  error  of 
a  single  foot  on  either  side  would  have  becMi  instant  destruction. 
As,  guided  by  Sinclair's  consummate  skill,  the  boat  shot  safely 
through  those  jaws  of  death,  an  involuntary  cheer  arose.  Our 
next  impulse  was  to  turn  round  to  view  the  fate  of  our  com- 
rades behind.  They  had  profited  by  the  ])eril  we  incurred 
and  kept  without  the  treacherous  rock  in  time." 

July  2!)th  the  party  reached  Cai)e  Harrow,  thence  pushing 
northeastward.  Cape  Flinders,  in  latitude  (;S°  15',  longitude 
109°  15'  west,  on  Kent  Peninsula,  was  attaiiuMl  on  August  9th. 
Here,  three  miles  from  Franklin's  Point  Turnagain,  they  re- 
mained till,  on  the  20th,  Simpson,  with  seven  men  and  pro- 
visions for  ten  days,  set  out  on  a  foot  Journey. 

Traveling  eastward,  on  the  23d  Simpson  ascended  a  height 
from  which  he  viewed  a  wave-worn  sea,  and  beyond  it  a  vast 
extent  of  territory  ui)on  which  he  bestowed  the  name  of  the 
young  queen-sovereign  of  England,  Victoria.  Its  eastern  ex- 
tremity was  called  Cape  Pelly,  in  honor  of  the  governor  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Territcrv. 

Having  surveyed  one  hundred  forty  miles  of  coast  line 
<'astward  of  Point  Tnrnagain,  Simpson  returned  to  Fort  Con- 
fidence, where  the  party  arrived  on  September  1 1(  h.  I  lore  tlu' 
winter  was  spent. 


204 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


Id  June,  1839,  after  having  spent  a  week  in  exploring  Ricli- 
ardson's  Kiver,  Simpson  again  descended  to  the  sea,  and  aftci- 
doubling  Cape  Alexander  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  Deasc 
Strait,  in  latitude  (18°  55'  and  longitude  10(;°  15',  on  July  28tli 
he  entered  a  large  gulf  or  bay,  still  unnamed,  and  traced  its 
coast  line  for  500  or  000  miles  to  a  narrow  channel  separating 
King  William's  Land  from  the  continent,  and  which  has  been 
called  in  his  lumor  SimpKon's  Strait. 

Proceeding,  on  the  25th,  the  journey's  end  was  reached 
near  ("ape  Ilerschel.  The  spot  was  marked  with  a  cairn  and 
documents  were  deposited.  It  stood  upon  Boothia  Isthmus, 
ninety  miles  south  of  the  North  Magnetic  Pole  as  determined  by 
lioss  eight  years  previous. 

The  east  coast  of  Victoria  Land  was  then  examined  for  150 
miles,  after  which  the  ])arty  returned  to  Fort  Confidence,  hav- 
ing completed  a  boat  voyage  of  1,000  miles  in  four  months. 

Simpson  was  murdered  in  the  course  of  the  following  year 
by  one  of  his  Indian  gUi  les  when  on  his  return  to  England. 
He  was  but  thirty-six  years  of  age  and  had  bsen  awarded  the 
Founder's  (Jold  Medal. 


INNUIT  HEAIWJKNAMKNT. 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


203 


CHAPTER    XV. 


MIDDENDORF  IN   THE  TAIMUR   PENINSULA. 


Of  indomitable  determination  and  untiring  in  his  zeal  for 
science,  Middendorf  deserves  a  place  of  honor  for  his  expedition 
to  the  Taimur  Peninsula.  Commissioned  by  the  Academy  of 
Natural  Sciences  of  St.  Petersburg,  he,  in  company  with  a 
Danish  forester,  and  a  single  servant,  proceeded  in  1848  to  a 
])()int  on  the  Yen-i-sa-i,  just  below  Tn-ru-chausk,  in  latitude  61°, 
longitude  90°  30'  east.  Here  he  was  joined  by  a  topographer, 
three  ( 'ossacks,  and  some  Tun-gu-si  guides. 

The  measles  broke  out  among  the  niombers  of  the  party 
at  this  time  and  it  became  necessary  to  transjjort  the  patients 
on  sledge-ambulances  having  boxes  lined  with  skins. 

Leaving  the  forest  of  the  Yen-i-se-i,  on  Aju'il  l.'itli,  the  party 
struck  the  open  tun-dras  and  journeyed  toward  the  Cha-tau- 
j;a  IMver.  The  inhabitants  in  its  region  being  aftLicted  like- 
wise with  measles,  Middendorf  then  directed  his  course  al- 
most due  north  toward  the  Taimur  liiver. 

Leaving  Brandt  to  prosecute  meteorological  work  and  to 
gather  specimens  of  the  fauna  and  flora  of  the  wgious,  on  the 
l!)th  of  May,  with  the  topographer,  two  Cossacks,  an  inter- 
jtreter,  a  boat  of  twelve  feet  keel,  sixty-eight  rein<h'er,  aud 
some  Samoyeds  who  were  migrating  in  tho  same  direction, 
Middendorf  began  his  long  journey. 

Striking  the  Taimur  on  June  14th,  in  latitude  74°,  tents 
were  pitched  and  the  boat  was  put  in  readiness.  The  ice  broke 
up  on  the  30th  an<l,  on  July  Sth,  the  boat  was  launched  by  tlie 
liS'ht  of  the  midnight  sun.  Through  Taimur  Lake  progress 
was  delayed  by  strong  north  winds,  but  beyond  tlie  lake  the 
increasing  rapidity  of  the  stream  hastened  them  on.  On  Au- 
U 


20G 


THE   SEARCH    FOR   THE   NORTH    POLE; 


Snst  Gth  the  first  frost  was  had,  and  on  the  24th  the  sea  wis 
reached,  in  hititiido  75°  40'. 

On  this  journey  Mi(hlendorf  found  confirmation  of  De  Saus- 
sure's— tlie  great  Hwiss  naturalist— statement  that  the  dittVi-- 
vnvo  between  li-ht  and  shade  is  greatest  in  summer  and  in 
the  higher  latitudes;  for,  altliougli  the  thermometer  indicated 
.i<  degrees  beh»w  zero  in  tlie  shade,  tlie  hillsides  exposed  to 
the  sun  were  dripping  with  wet.  Toward  the  end  of  June 
while  th(>  mean  temperature  of  the  air  Avas  still  below  tlie 
freezing-point  of  water,  the  snow  had  vanished  from  the  sunnv 
side  «)t  the  Taimur. 

Torrents  of  water  coursed  the  hillsides  and  swelled  the 
river  forty  feet  above  its  winter  level  and  swept  the  ice  to 
the  sea. 

About  the  middle  of  August,  in  light  underclothes  and 
barefooted,  Middendorf  hunted  butterflies  in  latitude  74°  15' 
the  temi,erature  of  the  air  being  ($8°,  but  near  the  ground  Hc/ 
while  at  a  spot  exposed  to  the  northeast  wind  it  was  tivJ 
degrees  below  freezing— at  27°. 

Moisture  was  great.  In  May  thick  snow-fogs  prevailed •  in 
June  vapor-fogs,  turning  <laily  to  light,  intermittent  showers 
Ouring  the  middle  ])ortions  (»f  the  day-the  night-period  of  tlie 
twenty-four  hours-when  the  sun  was  lowest  on  the  northern 
horizon,  the  weather  was  clear  and  serene. 

Winds  rose  suddenly  and  *  •»» 

THUNDERSTORMS 

were  frecjuent.  Their  occurrence^  in  the  Arctic  regions  is 
anomalous.  The  north  and  south  winds  battled  for  supremacy 
toward  the  end  of  August,  but  those  from  the  north  finairv 
prevailed. 

The  snow-fall  was  light  on  the  tundras,  being,  near  tbe 
(•lose  of  winter,  but  from  two  to  six  inches,  while  the  ice  on 
the  lake  and  river  measured  from  four  to  eight  feet  in  thick- 
ness, depending  upon  the  depth  of  snow  covering  it 

^  A  brownish  moss  covered  the  soil,  while  grass  grew  io  the 
height  of  from  three  to  four  inches  along  the  streams  and  in 


OH,    LIFE    ,N    THE    OREAT    WHITE    WORLD  207 

■•.,1..'.  po.'4:;:rL:::'T,:;;;,;:^:,:;,  ;;;:»•  "''i'-,.'  ^ «- 

liiistono.l  fM,.«^o..i  *  l''i".>»  'Jis  loiii'  <»)iiij»ani()iis  boin.r 

--;;*:z:;':,^;:;;;;:t;,;:,:::^'''''''''- --- 

™«^.i,eecl  that  I  „ul,  l,a„  ,„,„,,f  to  n,;nXZ  "" 

I    WAS    DOOMED. 

ami  as  good  as  numbered  with  the  (l,.i,i       i,„i      * 

ase  did  not  forsalie  me."  -'^^  "'•''■  '"'"•• 

Witli  reason  almost  unseated,  tliree  iHr-,  u<. , 
flash  of  thought  ,.a„,e  to  hin,.     He  w    tes    /^C,  '         "■""""- 

"■ '  -"•■<•  'P"-i<i.v  ii.gi,t,.d.  .so,„e  w  :,:  „  ■',  '':"•;•'■" " 

"•^"•""■<1,  I  poured  i«l„  it  the  spirits  fr,„     ,  «•,'    •  '•  """ 

specimen  of  natural  hist,>rv  and  ,Ir  n  '''"taMMng  a 

^u,.ahe„  in  me;  m,  t,,oug,r;!.:        ;,  ;:,;;::^ 
«oon  I  fei,  ia,„  a  profound  s,eep-how  ,on:  it' ,:;:;:;;  l'';;^ 


' ':  iHBII 


ii 


20S 


TMR    SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POhE; 


nol— -bul  o!i  jiwakcnino-  T  felt  like  aiiotlicr  iiian,  and  my  broast 
was  filled  willr'«-i'a(ihi(l('.     ApiM'lilc  n'ttinicd  with  rccovcrv 


and  I  was  induced  (deal  Ualiicrand  hircli-bark,  wl 


«an  foil  una  (cly  canic  within  n^acli  «d"  niv 


KMi  a  i)lai'nii- 


;nn.     Ilavin<>  llnh 


obtained  some  food  for  the  jonrney,  I  rescdved,  tlionoji  still 
very  l'e<>ble,  to  s<>l  out  and  se(>k  the  i)i'ovisions  we  ha<l  buried. 
,r  i<'les  of  dress,  my  j;un  niul  ammunition,  ni.v 
.iiy  small  hand-sled<;(»,  I  |)ro<'eeded  slowly,  and 


Ml! 


S( 


Taek 


journal,  et«' 


frequently  rested.  At  noon  1  saw,  on  a  welNknown  de<livitv 
«d' the  hills, 

THREE    MLACK    SPOTS 

whi(di  I  had  not  previously  noticed,  and  as  they  chanj>'ed  their 
|)osilion,  I  at  (nice  all<'red  my  route  to  join  them.  We  ap- 
proached eacdi  other,  and — jud,ij,('  of  my  delight — it  Avas  Tris- 
cliun,  the  Samoyed  chieftain  wlnnn  I  had  jireviously  assisted 
in  the  prevailing;  <'pidemic,  and  who  now,  guided  by  one  of 
my  companions,  had  set  out  with  three  sled<>('s  to  assist  .ic. 
I"ja<;er  to  serve  his  benefactoi,  the  j^rateful  sava<;"e  had  imule 
his  icindeer  wander  without  foo«l  over  a  space  of  on<'  lunulred 
tifty  versts  (ei<;hly-sev<'n  miles)  where  no  moss  .i;rew." 

Mid<lendorl"s  companions  lia<l  reached  the  Samoyeds  in 
time  to  send  him  assistance  an<l  on  the  last  (biy  of  September 
he  was  ayain  safe  williin  his  tent.  His  journey  had  termin- 
ated t  wo  deyi-ees  short  of  Cape  ( Mud-yns-kin,  but  that  ])oint  had 
been  attained  101  years  before.  Ills  exidorallons  made 
known  the  fauna,  tUwa  and  meteoroloj^y  of  the  most  northern 
rejiion  of  the  eastern  continent. 


PARTS  OF  SIR  JOUN  FRANKLIN'S  DESK. 


i.T  broast 
rccovcrv, 
ii  pljirmi- 
in^'  IImis 
u«4h  still 
il  buried, 
ilion,  my 
•wly,  Mild 
(l('<  livil  V 


|>'(mI  I  heir 
\V(*  iip- 
vas  Tiis- 
assislcd 
y  one  (tf 
ssist  ,('. 
ad  iiiiidc 
huiulicd 

)yo(ls  in 
']»t('nib('i' 
I  tcrmiii- 
xdiit  had 
IS  iuad{> 
iiortliciii 


a 


o 


if) 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    UIIEAT    WHITE    WOULD. 


20i) 


CJIAPTEJJ  XVI. 

FATEFUL  VOYAGE  OF  FRANKLIN  AND  EXPEDFOON  OI- 

RAE. 


Franklin's  last  cxjK'.lilion,  nndoitakcn  in  1845 


111  (inicr.     So  advanced  in  a 


i),  conies  now 


iillliongh  the  adniiralfv 


.liv  was  tlu'  oallanl  Sir  Join,  thai 


was  i«lad  to  avail  it, self  of  1 


(|xi)erieuce,  Lord  IIaddinj;ton  was  loth  to  let  1 


find  a  j>ood  excuse  for  not  lett 


lis  rich 
liiii  <««).     "I  luiiihl 


elhno  record  which  informs  nie  that  y 
aid  the  peer. 


aid  the  \h 
'No,  no. 


iu«'  .vou  no,  Sir  John,  i,,  tin. 
ou  are  sixty  years  old," 


Further  objection  \a 


my  Lord,"  said  Franklin,  "I  am  onl 


as  useless. 


y  fifty-nine." 


With  his  jienuant  tlyini,'  fnmi  the  "F 


ri'ozier,  the  conij)anion  of  V 
of  Sir  John  lio.ss  in  his  second 


rebm 


iii'iy  in  his  last  thr 


s,"  and  Captai 


n 


'ee  voyaj-cs  and 


Terror,"  the  craz 


xj)edition,  commandino  tin 


a  vov 


y  vessel  in  which  (^ai)tain  Rack  h 


ij-e  into  the  north  part  of  Hudson's  1? 


lid  essaved 


lin  set  sail  in  3Iay,  LS4 

Frovisioned  for  thn 
liiindred  men,  th 


iiy  in  183(5,  Frank 


■('  years,  the  vessels  had 


I,  tne  very  cream  of  the  navv 


on  board  one 


A  provision  ship  accomj)anied  tl 


nid,  fnmi  which  i)oint  it  returned  to  Kulhm] 


lem  as  far  as  Disco,  (Jreen- 


liist  tender  fai-ewell  uk 
the  <)th  of  July  FrankI 
iind  daughter  will  not  b 


be 


=iJios  of  the  depaitin<;'  exjd 
in  wrote.  "I  hop,,  that  niv  d 


iirinii'  the 


On 


(' -ers. 


<'ar  Avife 


the  time  tliev  h; 


iinxious  if  we  should  not  return  I 


jcft,  even  after  the  s( 


ive  fixed  ui)on.     Without  su 


>y 
ocess  in  our  ob- 


soine  other  channel 

crews  justifv  it 


«'ono  winter,  we  should    wish   to  t 


Iiealth  of  our 


should  the  state  of  our  pi 


rv 


■ovisions  and  tin 


<•'!•  written 
follows: 


V  portion  of  the 


very  last  let- 


by  this  same  brave  and  affectionate  man  is  as 


210 


TUB    SEAR(ni    I^OR   THK    NORTH    POLE; 


"U  iiak'  Fi«h  l«lau(l,  liny  of  Disc,),  ll(b  of  July,  l8ir> 
"My  Dour  Hintor-  *  »  •  The  appearaiico,  dress  ai,<l 
"launci-s  of  (ho  Esqnimaux  bespeak  that  care  is  taken  of  them 
by  (he  yovenimeiit.  Several  of  them  eai.  read  the  IMbU'  Mill, 
case,  and  I  am  Kdd  Ihat  when  tlie  families  are  all  eollecl,.,! 
the  ehildren  are  i.bli-ed  to  alteml  sehool  daily.  1  hmked  into 
one  of  the  Imts  arran-ed  will,  seats  (or  this  purpose.     When 

t  he  minister  e(Mnes  over  from  I  )iseo  he  superint emis  I  he  scho„|  • 
at  other  limes  (he  children  are  tauohl  by  a  half-caste  Es<pn- 
niaux.     I  low  deliohiful  it  is  to  know  (hat  the  gospel  is  spread 
inj.  far  and  wide,  and  will  do  so  till'itH  bless.'d  (ruths  aiv 
disseminaled   (hrounh  the  -lobe.     Every  ship  in  these  days 
ou-hl  to  o(»  fold,  to  straniic  lands  bearinj.  anions  its  odiceis 
a  missionary  spiri(;    ami   may  (}od  orant  such  a  sjurK   on 
board  (his  shij).     It  is  my  desire  (o  culfiva(e  (his  feeliiij«-,  and 
I  am  enconraj-ed  to  hope  we  have  anions  us  some  who  will 
aid  me  in  (his  du(y.     We  have  divine  service  twice  on  each 
Sunday,  and  I  never  wit  massed  a  more  attentive  coii«>re<>a(i()ii 
than  we  have.     May  the  seed  sown  fall  upon  o(„h1  ot,„„i,i^  .„„i 
bring  forth  fruit  abundandy  (o  (Jod's  honor  and  alorv. 

"Ever  your  affectionate  brodier, 

"John  Franklin." 
No  wonder,  (hen,  that  Franklin  was  always  surrounded  by 
a  host  of  ever  faithful  comimnions  in  all  his  undertakini-s, 
aiMl  that,  while  he  thus  writes  to  his  sister,  a  fellow-otticer, 
Lieutenant  Fairholme,  of  the  "Erebus,"  should  also  write  con- 
cerning- him:  "I  need  hardly  tell  you  how  much  we  are  all 
d(di,«;hted  with  our  captain,  lie  has,  I  am  sure,  won  not  only 
the  respect,  but  the  love  of  every  person  on  board  by  his  amia- 
ble manner  and  kindneK-s  to  all;  and  his  influence  is  always 
employed  for  some  .i>o<nl  pnrpose,  both  amonf«  otticers  and  iiieii. 
He  is  in  much  better  health  tlian  when  we  left  Enjiland,  and 
looks  ten  years  vounirer." 

The  jjallant  Fitz-James  also  wrote:  "I  am  convinced  (Init 
he  is  the  most  capable  «.f  all  men  of  commandinff  an  expedi- 
tion." 

The  last  ever  seen  o*  them  v/as  in  the  latter  part  of  July. 


OH,    LIKI.]    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WOULD.  211 

Tl.is  was  by  a  whaler  wl.<»  (losorih*^,!  n.om  as  "n.oorod  to  an 
urlu'ViT,  waiting  for  a  chance  lo  <.n<cr  Hallin's  Hay"  Thcv 
were  om-e  more  en<leavoriuj.  to  solve  the  ni.y.s.ery  of  a  nor.], 
west  prssaj^'e.  "^  ""•  m 

The  n.onrnfnl  discoveries  wJ.i,.],  have  since  been  nuule  in 
lhe_endeavor  ..  nnravH 

l{esolve<l  <o  o„tli,H.  fhe  ,.<,asf  Ivinj.'  between  Dcise  ..nd 
SMupson's  farthest  an.l  Far,  and  m'ccI:  Strait  he  :ds;u"H 
Ha.V  (-on.pany,  on  the  L'Jth  of  Julv,  l.S4.ti,  despatched 

DF..  JOHN  RAE. 

""■" '"'"fll'ii-K'Mi.i,™,  fortliat|,nn,„«,. 

l'.-,„-,.<.,linK  by  b„af  aloHK  tl„.  w,.»i,.n,  si,,,,-,.  „f  ll,„lH„n's 

..V,  tl„.  pa,,,.  „.a,.|M.,l  «-a,..r  liive,,  ,„.  „a.v,  „„  tl,..22  ; 

i";.v  w,.,,.  ,l<.t,.,.,v,l  a  .lay  bv  tho  ice,  wl.i,. ,  „t  n„.  ,;,„.' 

;;;;;::!'  *•"■"""" ""-'  ♦ ■'-'<«  ">■ "..  a,..io„ .,,  ti,.. ,;,;;: ;;;: 

LIKE    THUNDER 

'''"o,;";;;;:'!,;:;;".:;'"; « «'  ""•  ■■■"<■  <-'  -i^Hi  >nn..s  a„  i,.,,,,.. 

:  ;::';;"'"n:r'' r :;--  --- - ' '"-" 

'PI.    ,    .-        .     .  •  '     r\\on(y-t<)  ir  veal's  ni-ev-innu 

llic  natives  lia.l  iieiHierseen  nor  lieai',1  ,f  nnv.l'.i.. 

Fi'anklin.  niaiiioi  aiiUliMiK  ('(incei-ning 

'■'■"".iuK  fi'on,  these  ,,e,„,l,.  that  i,  was  ,',i,lv  about  fortv 

.    '     0,  he  i-eerosseil  the  htke-dotteil  isthmus  auil  be.  an  .t 
<'n(\'  to  prepare  for  "ij^an  at 

WINTER-QUARTERS 

-  r|o,.,i,se  Ra.v.     In  IH.s  Joni'iie.v  bo  ba,i  been  assiste,,,,- the 
Tiiere  „ei„.  „„  ^.,,a  in  the  region,  August  was  .pent  in 


212 


THE    SKAUCII    FOR   THE    NOUTH    POLE; 


biiildin;,^  a  (lwolIlnjr.pl,,,.,.  ,,f  „ton(\  It  was  twenty  feet  hing, 
loiiilccii  \Wi  wi(k',  and  eiglK  U'vi  liij-li,  l\w  roof  being  „f  „i|.' 
tlolli  jiiid  Nkln,  tilt'  masts  and  oaivs  Ht-rving  as  rafters,  while 
the  door  was  parelinient  skin. 

Deer  abounded,  an<l  altliongli  many  had  already  migrated 
Honth,  lleeing  from  the  apin-oaehing  Arctic  night,  on(>  hiin- 
<lred  sixty-two  fell  before  their  rith's  before  the  end  of 
November.     In  one  day,  Dr.  Jiae  shot  seven  within  two  miles 

of  the  house.     Jiesides  these,  two  hundred  partridges  and  so 

wahnon  were  secured. 

Fuel  sumcient  for  cooking  was  gathered,  and  tli(>  fat  <(f  two 
seals  which  were  shot  suj)plied  oil  for  the  lamps.  Hy  means 
of  nets  set  under  the  ice  a  few  mor«'  salmon  were  caught. 

Uy  the  middl(>  of  March  fcdiowing,  thedeer  again  appeared, 
chasing  the  fleeing  night. 

April  nth.  Dr.  Hae,  with  three  men,  two  Eskimo  interpret- 
ers, and  a  sled  drawn  by  four  dogs,  started  to  explore  the  west- 
ern shore  of  Committee  Hay.  In  the  course  of  the  latter  |)art 
of  the  month  he  arrived  on  the  isthmus  joining  Hoothia  with 
the  land  lying  to  the  south.  This  isthmus  was  found  to  be  but 
one  mile  wide. 

Returning,  four  Eskimos  were  met,  and  from  them  liae's 
exhausted  party  obtained  food  for  both  men  and  <logs.  The 
5tli  of  May  found  them  again  at  the  head  of  Kej)ulse  Hay. 

Eight  days  later  Dr.  Kae,  with  four  picked  men,  again 
started  out,  this  time  to  trace  the  west  shore  of  Melville  Pen- 
insula. \Mien  within  a  few  miles  of  Fury  and  Ilecla  Strait 
the  shortness  of  provisions  con»i)elled  them,  with  many  regrels, 
to  return  to  heaibiuarters,  which  they  reached  on  the  Uth  of 
June.  All  were  greatly  reduced  in  flesh  and  strength  and 
were  com])elIed  t(>  resort  to  the  expedient  of  tightening  their 
belts  to  allay  the  pangs  of  hunger. 

(lame,  however,  was  soon  secuj'ed,  the  boats  made  ready, 
and  on  the  12th  of  August  the  party  sailed  for  Fort  (^hurchill, 
where  they  arrived   on  the  31st. 

For  his  services  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  rewarded  Dr. 
Kae  with  a  gift  of  |2,000. 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


213 


'A^ 


CnAPTEU   XVII. 

RICHARDSON'S  SEARCH  FOR  FRAXKIJN. 

Whon,  nftor  an  absence  of  uvav\y  tlnvo  yours,  no  intdli- 
icncc  ua.M  iv,Tiv(Ml  •oiucnnnjr  Hw  wlirn.alx.uls  of  Franklin 
|(  was  (lot.nnim.l  to  ,l..s,,af<.h  s.anhino  ^wiWH  to  iUvov  dif- 
l^'iyi    loralituvs,  viz.,  to  L-nH-astcr  Sonnd,  (!.<.  Ma.iau.zio  liivc'- 

In  ..xculion  „f  ihis  „,.,.at  plan,  «u  ...xiM.lii ,„|,.,  ,,„„. 

"'^""1  "fir.  John  l(i,.|.„-,ls„„,  (l„.  bn,v,.  an,l  .skillful  ,„,n. 
]«"""»  "f  I'vmMiu  in  l,i»  fanmus  ,..x,„.,!i,ion  .,f  l«l!..ai,  im 
l.ivcipdol  llaivli  2.'-,,  1848.  ' 

«a»_tlu..rf<,n.  ,„.,.,.n, ntiv  ,,naliH..,l  „.,.  th,-  ,„.,.a,  ovnlan.l 

I>.'.  -loin,  liaP,  wh..  h„,I  boen  a  ,.,.»i,l,.„(  „f  liniisl,  America 
!'•■  fif  ....n  ,v,.a,.H,  an.l  wl,„  was  ,.f  ,nu,l,  pra.n.al  ,vis,lo„    " 
I'l'i"'il  X ml  in  coiMinaud.  "  i-'i"in,  «.is 

..a,.  (  ha  npla.n,  th,.  St.  l.uv,-,.,,,-,.  Itiv,.,-  the  Oroat  i.a     ; 

', :■"';';.'"••<  '"'<<■" """  «'>•«"■-  "f  ifitisi,  A„„.,.i,.a  t   , ; 

a,.k.M,z„.  R,v<.,-  th,.  ,l,.,ta  „f  whi,.h  ,va»  ,.,.a,.h«l  .,„    h  ■  ! 
.■s,lk  H.«K,v,.n  h,n>  h.v  In.,  dvi,,;;  wif...  i„  ,S2(!,  atnl  ,livi,l,.,l 
"■mniand  procwdm^r  w,.»t  toivard  H(.|i„.,'„  striit  tl„.  ..ti,..,. 

Tho  Eskimos  ,.n,.o„ntoro,l  at  that  tin,,.  w,.ro  asain  mot  wit'l, 
I.;  the  namber  of  abont  t,vo  h„„.„.,.rt,  b„t,  stt-an^olv  thov  ,    ' 
r""l  ov,.r  UavinR  before  seen  or  hear,]  ,f  aa  v  wli":  ,..;,,, 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 

boats.  To  all  appearances  they  had  forgotten  the  conflict 
with  Franklin  on  the  occasion  of  his  arrive]  among  them,  and 
doubtless,  unpleasant  recollections  of  it  caused  their  denial.  ' 
Secretly  depositing  a  case  of  pemmican  in  a  pit  dug  ten  feet 
from  the  best-grown  tree  on  the  point,  besides  leaving  a  bottle 
containing  the  memorandum  of  their  journey  and  other  infor- 
mation, liichardson  proceeded  along  the  coast  hoping  to  be 
able  to  cross  over  to  Wollaston  Land,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
C(>ppermine. 

At  Baillie's  Islands,  near  Cape  Bathurst,  Eskimos  were 
again  met  and  bartered  with.  They  were  here  at  this  season 
t'Ji'  the  purpose  of  capturing  the  black  whale.  More  pemmican 
was  now  buried,  and  in  order  to  conceal  the  location  of  the  pit 
contHining  it,  the  turf  was  carefully  replaced,  drift  timber 
burned  upon  the  spot,  and  a 

SIGNAL-POLE 

painted  red  and  w^hite  erected  at  a  distance  of  ten  feet  from  the 
cache.  Upon  the  pole  were  hung  several  articles  of  value 
as  an  inducement  to  the  Eskimos  not  to  remove  the  pole  itself. 
The  effect  was  as  desired,  for  upon  leaving  the  place.  Dr.  Rich- 
ardson had  the  satisfaction  of  perceiving  some  of  the  Eskimos 
strip  the  pole  of  its  gifts,  leaving  the  signal  undisturbed. 

Rounding  Cape  Bathurst,  the  shore  sometimes  rose  to  the 
height  of  250  feet.  The  bituminous  shale  at  Point  Trail,  in 
latitude  70°  19',  ignited  evidently  by  the  natives,  had  been 
burned  and  the  banks  thus  destroyed  and  crumbletl  presented 
a  singular  appearance. 

Near  Cape  Parry,  an  eminence  500  feet  high  and  surmount- 
ing all  the  surrounding  region,  another  case  of  pemmican  and  a 
letter  were  deposited,  the  spot  being  marked  with  limestones 
painted  red.     Traces  of  Eskimos  were  still  found. 

Near  Cape  Kendall,  on  August  12th,  the  sea  became  so 
much  obstructed  by  ice  that  it  became  necessary  to  abandon 
all  but  one  portable  boat,  the  tent,  hatchets,  and  some  of  the 
cooking  utensils  to  the  Eskimos.  Advancing  now  on  foot 
through  deep  snow,  the?     veary  progress  was  expedited  bv  the 


_    OR.    LIKE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  216 

senorous  assi«t,„„.o  of  the  natives  wl.om  tbeV  c„„ti„ued  U, 
meet,  these  fen,iu«  them  aeross  the  n,,,uer„us  in  e      yi^„ 
»«'<r  course.     Two  of  the  natives  were  reeoguized  as  belu 

j-ches.  The;,  as' i";e::x^r;rt:;i;;;;';r [i z:s; 

Dr  mehartlson  allowed  his  n,en  to  offer  none  of  then,  a„v 
i"<lVi"0.     He  himself  enterint;  one  of  their  huts  found  siv  or 

::ri  "rrdi:::' *■,, '" "  "'■•■'-  ■■•"'  ^^"^™'«-  "<^"l' «-  ■ 

At  length,  on  September  5tl,,  the  Toppermine  was  reaehed 

'tst^.n;;  "r- """ """" "'"™'' "  ■■-'■''- «--  -« ""i"  -'• 

flreatly  refreshed,  the  party  now  ascended  the  river  ■■  .-on 
"le  able  d,stan<.e  and  then,  striking  across  the  e  lutr' ■     r' 
rived,  on  September  Iflth,  »  i"l  iouuti.\,  ar- 

AT    KORT    CONPIDENCB 

::;;:::-;;;[:7j;;;;,rr;;:;^ 

Durinj,.  all  Lis  l,)„o-  jo„,„(^y  from  the  Great  L-ikos  tn  tl. . 
"><>"<•'  of  tho  Mnvk.u,\o,  and  th.n.e  to  Fort  rlnfi  i  . 

-"".n.  I.fe  and  climatology  of  the  regions  traversed  tmie".  Z 


216 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


accounts  of  his  travels  of  great  value  and  fascination.  Lichen 
and  moss,  allordinj.  reindec^r  an<l  ninsk-ox  their  abundant  foo,]- 
•TOW  ,err.y,  bea berry  an<l  cranberr.v,  preserved  from  tin.e  ol' 
npon.n.  „  the  following  season  of  blosson.s  by  an  earlv  n 
on«-coul.nued  freezing,  fnrnishino.  to  ,oose  an<l  bear  the 
f.  t  enn.^  provender;  chron.ate  and  copper,  yielding,  io  Eskin.o 
...Hi  Indian  their  hostile  weapon  and  pign.ent-all  these  and 
nuu'h  n.ore  Indd  the  rea<l(.r  intent  from  beginnino- 1<,  end 

During  the  winter  both  Kichardson  and  lino  were  busilv 
employed  with  their  scientific  (observations 

On  April  12th,  1840,  was  received  a  letter-bag  from  Em- 
land.     Among  the  packages  received  was  a  newspaper, 

THE    GALENA    (ILL.)    ADVERTISER. 

This  conveyed  to  them  later  news  from  Engltind  than  anv  <.r 
the  other  arti(des,  from  this  circumstance:  while  the  mail-b-,-. 
was  being  transported  from  New  York  to  the  lied  liiver  of  the 
^orth,  the  latest  news  from  England-September  15,  1S48- 
was  telegraphed  to  the  Galena  paper,  which,  being  prfnte<l  th. 
next^  day,  was  despatched  by  way  of  the  Upper  Mississippi 
and  thence  found  its  way  into  the  more  slowly  travelino-  hotter- 
bag  and  so  on  beyond  the  Arctic  Circle.  Tn  it  was  pnblishe.i 
news  concerning  the  Irish  rebellion.     In  January  the 

OREGON    CITY    (OREGON)    SPECTATOR, 

Of  February,  1848,  had  reached  them  after  a  journey  of  eleven 
months.  It  contained  an  account  of  the  uprising  of  the  Hlack- 
foot  Indians. 

In  April,  Mr.  Rae,  in  anticipation  of  a  summer  voyage  down 
the  Coppermine,  was  employed  in  transporting  provisions  and 
boat  supi)lies  to  a  tributary  of  that  stream.  These  were  h^ft  in 
charge  of  two  men,  and  two  Indian  hunters  were  kei)t  busy  ob- 
taining and  curing  the  flesh  of  reindeer  and  musk-ox  for  their 
use  on  the  trip. 

The  ice  not  breaking,  it  was  the  middle  of  .Tulv  before  Ifae's 
party  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine.  Thence  various 
attempts  to  cross  to  Wollaston  Land  were  made,  but  havino- 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  217 

^^yrWi'i]  iou  \niv  in  (1,,.  sons„n,  tho  Uo  had  already  broken  into 
in'lH'iiclrable  hummocks  and,  after  waiting  till  the  lUth  of  Vu- 
liUHi,  tliey  were  oblij-ed  to  abandon  tlw  eftort  aKoj-vther  Thev 
iH.wever  met  with  Hve  Eskimo,  who  had  spent  the  wint'i' 
MMiono-  the  ANolhiston  Land  Eskimos  wli<,  had  never  seen  En- 
.•<M>oans  or  hu«e  boats.  Tims  batlLed,  althonoh  a  brave  and 
i  IHligent  man  liae  again  ascended  the  CV^ppermine  and  in 
due  lime  arrived  at  Fort  Conti(h'nc(. 

While  towing  the  boat  along  shorc^  over  the  last  bad  rapi<l, 

A    SAD    ACCIDENT 

-.nrred  to  tlu^  faithfnl  interpreter,  Albert  ()ne  Eye.     Owing 

;S  In'"  ?'  'r'}''  ''' ^"^  "^^™^»'  ^'-^  boat  waf 
<  ast  ad  .ft.  Misunderstanding  a  diivction  of  Mr.  Kae  \lbert 
sprang  into  the  boat,  and  both  were  lost.     The  vc,nng  m;„  wa 

H.>wn  t..mi  the  boat,  and  seen  to  sink,  nevel.  to  H  e  ..^i^ 
H<'n.g  aetnv,  of  an  amiable  disposition,  and  of  extrem;  70  ]' 
»('ss,  his  death  was  deeply  lamented.  "" 

During  Kae's  employment   on   this    tviu    n..    i.-  i 

(lossea  (,reat  liear  Lake  to   ts  outlet   it  if«  «,.,,fi. 

by  means  of  '  ^^  '*''  ''""^'^  extremity, 

GREAT    BEAR    RIVER. 

|i  t.ibutar.v  .,f  tlu.  Mu<k<.„.i,.,  H,..  as.-out  of  which  to  Great 
Mav..  Lake  «a.s  the  object  of  .»,..  l(i,.h„nl,so„'s  elTo  t 
^        he„  ,Ies.-e.„l,Mg  the  (ireut  i!e,„-  Kiver,  „„e  of  the  seamen 
.■  l>y  uaine,  .ta,.,e,l  i„la,„l,  ,„„,,o«i„^,  to  shoH,. .  the"  i  -' 
t.M.,e,     lie  «„„„  |„.st  his  way,  an,l  as  is  usual    it  is  s-,i,l      ^r 
PH».M,s  to  do  u„.le,.  su.h  .■i,v„M,s,a„,.es,  he    t arte,,       'v.m 
A.T.v,uK  at  a  tortuous  strean,  he  was  •■.uupell      t    sti.    it 
»  <-e,  .•nr.T.ug  his  eIoth,.s  upo„  his  baek.    ',„  his    e,™  1  ,  f 
K.  ,,«,,,»  ,ar,ue,,,s,  but  u„o„  arrivin,  on  the  X:    ^ 

-Hi  fortunately  re  ,Z       |  .,;       e';;",'  Ty""'"'  ''"""" 
-"I  ..'nn.ne,l  i s  eou,panio„s  "'  '""'  """*''  "'""^'< 

»f  ^'^iZ  'Iw  '"  ""■r;""""""l.poare„  to  be  eharaeteristie 
th..-  sa.lo,.s,  „lu,  coul.1  not  be  n,a,l,.  to  realize  the  .lander 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 

ai'iising  through  waudoriug  from  compauiobs  until  expei-ieuce 
(1  taught  them  better. 
On  another  occasion  one  of  them  was  found  contentedly 

WALKING    TOWARD    THE    MOON, 

which,  being  red  and  near  the  horizon,  streamed  through  the 
forest  and  led  the  wanderer  into  the  belief  that  he  was  a^)- 
proaching  the  camp-fire  of  his  comrades. 

Dr.  Richardson  eventually  arrived  in  England  on  the  ()tli 
of  November,  where  he  was  received  with  marks  of  satisfaction 
for  his  great  services.  He  had  been  absent  nineteen  months, 
twelve  of  which  were  spent  in  actual  travel. 


IVORY  KNIVES. 


OR,    UFE    IN    THE    GREAT    ;VM1TE    WORLD. 


219 


l!i 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

SEARCH   EXPEDITION  OF  JAMES   C.   ROSS. 

The  first  expedition  fitted  out  to  seai-cli  for  tlie  lost  explor- 
ers by  way  of  the  Lancaster  Sound  route,  left  En-land 
June  12,  1848,  in  command  of  Sir  James  C.  Koss,  who,  i?  will 
he  remembered,  had  been  in  many  parts  of  the  world  with  his 
distin.^uished  uncle.  Sir  John  Koss. 

The  pennant  ship  "Enterprise"  was  of  450  tons,  and  amono 
tlie  officers  were  the  afterwards  celebrated  lieutenants,  Mc- 
Clure  and  McClintock.  The  "Investigator,"  in  command  of 
(  aptain  E.  J.  Hird,  who  had  served  under  Parry  during  his 
second  and  fourth  voyages,  was  of  480  tons.  The  two  ships 
carried  a  complement  of  135  men. 

LEOPOLD    HARBOR, 

at  the  northwestern  corner  of  l»rince  llegent's  Inlet,  was 
reached  September  11th,  and  here,  a  month  later,  winter-quar- 
ters were  completed.  A  more  desirable  location  could  not 
have  been  secured,  for  it  commanded  the  junction  of  the  four 
great  channels,  Lancaster  Sound,  Wellington  Channel,  Bar- 
row's Strait,  and  Prince  Regent's  Inlet,  so  that  any  of  Frank- 
lin's party,  traveling  by  either  route,  could  scarcely  avoid  learn- 
ing of  their  i)resence  in  Leonold  Harbor. 

Knowing  that  a  party  sn  ,.  t  of  provisions  would  search  for 
foxes  at  this  time  of  year,  about  fifty  of  these  small  white  crea- 
tures were  entrapped,  and,  copper  collars  containing  informa- 
tion for  the  lost  men  being  fastened  about  their  necks,  again 
set  at  liberty.  Parry  had  previously  used  this  method,  having 
left  medals  with  the  Eskimos. 

The  winter  passed  uneventfully,  and  during  April  and  May 


220 


TME   search    for   the    north    POLE; 


Captain  Ross  and  Lieutenant  McClintock,  with  twelve  men, 
explored  the  north  and  west  coasi,  of 

north  somerset 

as  far  as  latitude  72°  38'  and  longitude  95°  40'  and  eret^ted  a 
cairn  of  stones.  Beyond  this  thej  could  see  clearly  to  a  dis- 
tance of  tift.v  miles,  and  that  the  Gulf  of  Boothia  was  sep- 
arated from  the  western  sea  by  an  apparent  Isthmus,  now, 
however,  known  to  be  a  short  neck  of  water  called  Bellot 
Strait. 

While  they  Avere  absent  Mr.  Mathias,  assistant-surgeon  on 
the  "Enterprise,"  died  of  consumption. 

Meanwhile,  both  coasts  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet  and  the 
western  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Boothia  for  some  distance  had 
been  examined,  so  that,  considering  Rae's  work  along  the 
Avest  coast  in  1847,  not; more  than  150  2niles  of  the  western 
shore  of  the  inlet  and  gulf  remained  unsear"1.3d.  A  small 
party  under  Lieutenant  Barnard  had  also  crossed  Barrow's 
Strait  and  examined  a  portion  of  le  north  coast.  Nowhere 
were  traces  of  their  missing  countrymen  to  be  found. 

The  party  that  examined  the  west  coast  of  Prince  Regent's 
Inlet  came  upon  the  house  occupied  by  Sir  John  Ross  'tj  the 
winter  of  1832-3.  The  stores  taken  from  the  "Fury,"  aban- 
doned in  1827,  Avere  found  in  an  excellent  state  of  preserva- 
tion. 

These  embraced  tiour,  peas,  meat  and  portable  soups,  which 
last  was  as  wholesome  as  when  tirst  nmnufactured. 

It  now  appeared  to  Captain  Ross  that  Franklin  had  not 
entered  J'rince  Regent's  Inlet,  but  continued  westward  through 
Barrow's  Strait,  turning  south,  eventually,  in  an  effort  *t<> 
reach  the  mainland  of  America,  and  that  therefore  Dr.  Ri<li- 
ardson's  parties  in  descending  the  Mackenzie  and  Coppermine 
Avon  Id  meet  them. 

Having  built  a  house  and  deposited  a  year's  supply  of  pro- 
visions and  fuel  for  a  large  party  of  men,  the  A^essels  proceeded 
across  Barrow's  Strait  for  the  purpose  of  examining  Welling- 
ton Channel.    When  about  tAvelve  miles  from  the  shore  the  ice 


OH,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  221 

arrested  farther  progress  and  they  were  soon  beset,  and  sloomv 
forebodings  of  a  second  winter  to  be  spent  in  this  situation 
<ame  to  all,  when  the  whole  body  of  ice  began  to  move  east 
ward,  carrying  them  through  i.ancaster  Hound  at  the  rate  of 
eight  or  ten  miles  a  day  until  quite  abreast  Pond's  Inlet  Here 
on  September  25th,  they  were  almost  miraculously  liberated' 
the  ice  suddenly  breaking  into  innumerable  fragments  as  if 
by  an  unseen  power.     Says  Koss: 

''It  is  impossible  to  convey  any  idea  of  the  sensations  we 
experienced  when  we  found  ourselves  once  more  at  liberty 
while  many  a  grateful  heart  poured  forth  its  praises  and' 
thanksgiving  to  Almighty  God  for  this  unlooked-for  deliver- 
ance. 

Now  sailing  to  England,  both  vessels  arrived  there  in  safety 
early  m  November.  -^ 


PTARMIGANS. 


15 


222 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


I 


I 


lis 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

VOYAGE  C)I'^  THE  "NORTH  STAR." 

Fitted  out  in  tlio  «i)i'iiij;'  of  184J),  witli  provisions  for  tlic 
missing  cxptMlition,  and  witli  orders  and  supplies  for  tlie  "En- 
terprise" and  the  "Investi<jjator,"  tlie  "Nortli  Star,"  of  500 
tons,  arrived  in  tlie  vicinity  of  tlie  Devil's  Thumb  and 
Melville  Bay  on  July  2{)th,  where  she  was  beset  with  ice  for 
sixty-two  (lays,  beinj»-  released  September  29th.  She  then 
took  up  her  winter-quarters  in  North  Star  Bay,  Wosteuholnie 
Sound,  latitude  7(5°  33',  lonj-itude  '?8°  5(;'. 

Up  to  this  date  this  was  the  farthest  north  that  a  British 
ship  had  ever  wintered^  The  cold  was  intense,  but  two  or 
three  stoves  warmed  the  vessel,  and  the  crews  were  cheered  v.]) 
with  all  sorts  of  games  and  amusements. 

Although  about  fifty  hares  and  some  foxes  were  shot,  other 
game  was  scarce.  A  few  Eskimo  families  visiled  the  ship 
occasional!}^,  and  one  poor  fellow  had  both  feet  so  badly 
frozen  that  they  dropped  off.  He  was  nearly  cured  by  Dr. 
Rae,  but  died  of  some  pulmonary  difficulty  after  having  been 
.  on  board  six  weeks. 

It  was  the  first  of  August,  1850,  before  the  "North  Star" 
could  leave  the  bay,  and  the  22d  before  she  arrived  in  Lancas- 
ter Sound,  on  which  day  she  spoke  the  "Felix,"  under  Sir 
John  Ross.  On  the  next  dav  the  "North  Star"  began  landiuii' 
her  supplies  in  Navy  Board  Inlet,  latitude  73°  44',  longitude 
80°  56'.  The  ice  prevented  them  from  being  landed  at  Port 
Bowen  and  Port  Neale,  as  had  been  previously  tried.  A  flag- 
staff, with  a  black  ball,  and  a  letter  deposited  beneath  a  cairn 
of  stones,  marked  the  position  of  the  stores. 

The  "North  Star"  returned  to  England  in  September.  Her 
men  had  endured  intense  cold  and  many  perils,  yet  but  five 
men  were  lost  on  the  trip  and  in  winter-quarters. 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


223 


CHAPTER  XX. 

.  VOYAGE  OF  THE  "PLOVER"  AND  "HERALD." 

The  third  seareh-routo,  viz.,  that  by  way  of  Bering's  Strait, 
was  essayed  in  1849,  by  the  "l>h,ver,"  (.V.nnuinder  Moore,  an< 
the  "Herald,"  Captain  KeNet.  These  two  vessels,  having 
passed  the  strait,  discovered  to  the  northwar-l  two  ishiuds  with 
several  neighboring  islets.  They  then  repaired  to  winter- 
quarrers,  the  "Plover"  to  Kotzebue  Sound,  the  "Herald"  to 
Panama. 

Previous  to  this,  Lieutenant  Pullen  had  quitted  the  "Plover" 
and,  with  four  open  boats,  made  a  thirty-two  <lavs'  vovage 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  arriving  there  on  the  2r,th  of 
August.  Ascending  this  river  to  Port  Simpson,  he  met  Mr 
Kae  and  learned  of  the  results  of  the  expeditions  to  the  Arctic 
coast  made  by  both  Kichardson  and  Rae. 

On  the  20th  of  June  following,  Lieutenant  Pullen  left  Fort 
Simpson  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company's  servants  and  stock 
of  furs  for  England,  but,  five  days  later,  met  a  messenger  with 
dispatches  directing  him  to  return  and  continue  the  search 
along  the  Arctic  coast.  He  accordingly  descended  the  Mac- 
kenzie, but,  one  of  his  boats  being  shattered,  he  returned  un- 
successful, and  in  due  time  arrived  in  England. 


I  a  cairn 


'524 


THE   SEARCH    FOR   THE   NORTH    POLE; 


CFIAI'TKIJ  XXI. 

THE  SEARCH   COXTIXUED:    THE  AimiRALTY  SQUAD 

ROX  AXD  PRIVATE  EXPEDinOXS.— THE 

AMERICAXS  ASSIST, 

We  now  revert  a  sei'ond  tijue  to  the  seareli  conducted  In 
way  of  liancastei*  Sound,  whither,  in  ISfiO,  were  sent  ten  vessels 
intent  upon  obtaining;  sonie<lew  to,  if  not  a  coniph'te  revehitioii 
of,  tlie  ice-liejjt  mystery.  There,  in  July,  were  tlie  "Resolute" 
and  tlie  "Assistance,"  teak-built  vessels  of  500  tons  each,  and 
in  connnand  of  Cajttains  Austin  and  Oninianey  r(»spectively, 
and  each  carryinj;  a  complement  of  sixty  men.  Accomijanyiiiji' 
these  as  tenders  were  the  small  screw  steamers,  the  "IMoneer," 
Lieutenant  Osborn,  and  the  "Intrejjid,"  Lieutenant  Cator,  eacli 
carrvinu  thirtv  men. 

Anion};  the  otHcers  on  b<;ard  the  "Resolute"  and  the  "As- 
sistance" were  Lieutenants  Browne  and  Mc(Minto(  k,  who 
served  in  the  "Enterprise"  duriii}'  the  voyaj^c  of  Sir  James  (\ 
Koss  in  1848.  Besides  these  vessels,  there  were  the  "Lady 
Franklin,"  250  tons  and  twenty-tivc  men,  and  the  briji 
"Sophia,"  twenty-two  men.  Hi  iharj^c  of  the  two  slii))s  was 
Captain  Penny,  who  had  spent  twenty-ei^ht  of  the  forty  years 
of  his  life  in  the  whalinj^-service.  ^h:  Stewart  cominandefl  tlic 
"So])hia,"  so  named  in  honor  of  a  niece  of  I^ady  Franklin. 
These  vessels  carried 


A   PRINTING   PRESS 


as  one  of  the  means  of  passing;  away  hours  of  enforced  idleness. 

All  of  these  vessels  were  fitted  out  at  government  exiMiise 

and  the  squadnm  thus  composed  i)laced  under  the  command 

of  Captain  Horatio  T.  Austin,  who  had  seen  ])revious  Arctic 


-4U4'' 


<4^l 


.  f.   ;    : 

m 

■     ^u  SB  Mb^H^^h 

I  H  w  Mm 


(1.)    A    Halt.      (2.)     Sibr't-iiin    Woiiipii    HnrnosiiriK  Up.    ct.)    Swim    hiuI    Nost. 
(4.)     Driviiiij  Ui'PBe.    (.').)    Slmotimr  the  8wnn.     1.0.1     Women  Stiiriiig  Hrotit  Geese. 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  225 

iii«'  tUi>  in(.in<.i;nl»l.>  (l,in|  v<»vn«v  <.f  IH'M-r,  ^ 

'"  '•<'''!»!-'  to  tl.iH  H(,u:ulron  s<M.t  onnn'  Il.o  n^lnnralty, 

PRIVATE    ENTERPRISE    AND    VVUIAC    SUBSCRIPTIOn'  ' 

«'».iibIo(l  othor.vcsHclN  ((»  assisf  in  the  mvnt  work      «,.  i 

''"A,      l-,f>   tons,   (  ilDfaill    Sir    loliti    i>  1 

'-iyth  „  ,•.„„„.  „K,t>  ,...,.,.„f I.V  ,,.„„-,„,i  f,.,„„  AfH,  \  ,  ; 

i;::::i:f  ::;:■:.';:;■: ■•-- ^.n,,...,ur.::;::;;;: 

^  WITHOUT    FEE    OR    REWARD 

FIRST    INFORMATION    CONCERNINO    FRANKLIN 


Si 


i 


I 


nl 


ipp  liilcy  ;iii(l  tlK-i)  seardiecl  fli'c 


iflii 


226 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    -^HE    NORTH    POLE; 


north  shores  of  Lancaster  SouikI  au«l  Jiarrow's  Strait,  withcmt 
finding  any  fnrtlu'r  information. 

Two  days  later  the  "Prince  Albert"  also  visited  Cape  liiley. 
Says  (^aptain  Forsytli:  "We  observed  ^ve  places  where  tents 
had  been  pitched,  or  stones  placed  as  if  they  had  been  used  for 
keeping  the  lower  part  of  the  tent  down  f  also  great  quanti- 
ties of  beef,  pork,  and  birds'  bones,  a  piece  of  rope,  with  the 
Woolwich  naval  mark  on  it  (yellow),  part  of  which  1  hav(> 
enclosed." 

About  this  time  the  "Lady  Franklin,"  Captain  Penny,  suc- 
ceeded in  pushing  her  way  up  Wellington  Channel  as  far  as 

CORNWALLIS    ISLAND, 

when,  although  an  impenetrable  ice-barrier  was  met,  to  the 
great  chagrin  of  Captain  Penny,  open  water  could  be  seen  be- 
yond as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach. 

The  season  being  now  far  advanced,  preparations  for 

WINTER-QUARTERS 

were  made  at  once.  The  "Lady  Franklin"  established  herself 
at  the  south  extremity  of  (\)rnwallis  Land,  wher(^  she  was 
joined  by  the  "Felix,"  under  Sir  John  lioss,  whih*  the  "Reso- 
lute" and  the  "Assistance,"  Captain  Austin  and  Lieutenant 
Ommaney,  fastened  themselves  to  the  ice-pack.  The  "Prince 
Albert,"  having  accomplislied  its  mission,  hastened  to  Eu"- 
land,  after  an  absence  of  but  four  months,  without  anv  loss 
whatever,  an<l  cciiveyed  tln^  first  intelligence  concerning  the 
lost  expediti(m,  thus  accomidishing  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able Arctic  voyages  on  rec<)r<l.  The  American  vessels,  the 
"Advance"  and  tlu-  "LN^scue/'  were  comi»elled  t(»  return  to  the 
Fnited  States  in  a  manner  which  will  be  narrated  later,  more 
in  detail. 

From  the  vessels  that  succeeded  in  establishing  themselves 
in  winter-cjuarters  (excursions  in  (nery  direction* were  under- 
taken, th(»re  being  lifteen  sledges  and  one  hundred  live 
men  thus  emi)loy<>d,  while  but  seventy-five  men  remained  in 
charge  of  the  shii)s. 

"No  signs"  wei-e  invariably  the  <liscouraging  words  uttered 
as  each  party  returned  from  a  long  journey. 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


227 


CHAPTEK   XXII. 

KENNEDY'S    SEARCH    VOYAGE. 

..  En;':'aX  Z  "^;; :,.::'';t:;;," ''"'■•'•7  '*'-'  -- 1^-^-. 

■     i.e.  sides  f^t  u  K^eit  ™:','^,'T''"  "h""'""  """'^  "P»" 
Uer  bow,  -inrf  ..  "'""''-'  "'"  "ater-iine,  wliile 

her  as  strong  as  no  siWe     st      "''"''■^':"»"''  """*  '■e"dering 

aud  placed  u^zz^:::^ ''"'™""""'  '"••  '"•"  ^-- 

CAPT.  WILLIAM    KENNEDY. 

Who  was  ordered  to  continiK^  tlie  soaivl,  bv  w.v  .f  i>  • 
Kotrent's  Inlet  <'.mwWi.  ^^«u(ii   d\    May  of  Prince 

lu^eur  8  lujrt,    aiKl  the  pas-saj-es  connectino  it  with  the  w^«f 

^;vr::-i-;xr;:;n «' ----- 

On  the  22d  of  May,  1851,  the  "Prince  Albert"  ao-dn  set  ..u 

an.l  express,  was  enthusiastically  cheered  .s  .... 

to  her  weary  watchin-  '^''  •'^'^'"  ^"^'"^^'1 

isli  villajre  of  '''  °''"''-''  "PP-'site  the  Dan- 

U-PER-NA-VIK, 

on  the  west  coast  of  Greenlsnid   and  the  nnvn 

-nt  civiu.ed  sott.en.en.  on  ^'i:::7:::!::::rvn:L 


228 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


village  six  large  Eskimo  clogs  were  taken  on  board  and  the 

ship's  already  full  supply  of  boats  was  supplemented  by  a 

number  of  sealskin  boats. 

On  the  13th  the  "Prince  Albert"  met  the  American  vessels, 

the  "Advance"  and  the  "Rescue,"  just  esca])ed  from  an  eight 

months'  perilous  drift  in  tlie  ice-pack. 

Not  until  AugUfit  2()th  did  Captain  Kennedy  succeed  in 

reaching  I'oud's  Inlet,  at  the  entrance  to  Lancaster  Souud. 

Here  a  party  of  Eskimos  visited  the  expedition  and  so  rare 

was  the  atmosphere  that  the  voices  of  the  natives  could  be 

clearly  heard  at  the  distance  of  eight  miles  as  they  approached 

the  vessel. 

Arriving  at  the  entrance  to  Barrow's  Strait  on  September 
3d,  the  farther  progress  of  the  "Prince  Albert"  was  terminated 

by  an  impassable  barrier  of  ice  which  an  easterly  gale  had 
thrown  athwart  his  course.     Kefuge  was  then  found  in  Port 

Bowen,  where,  it  will  be  recalled.  Parry  had  sought  shelter  in 

1824-5,  Here  were  picked  up  nails,  pieces  of  canvas,  and 
broken  pipes,  while  the 'cairns  and  stone  fireplace  were  still 
standing. 

The  lonely  grave  of  John  Cottrell,  the  seaman  from  tlie 
"Fury"  who,  at  the  age  of  thirty-nine,  was  buried  in  July,  1825, 
was  also  revisited. 

On  the  9th  of  September  Captain  Kennedy  succeeded  in 
crossing  the  inlet  to  within  a  few  miles  of  Port  Leopold. 

With  a  gutta-percha  boat  and  four  seamen,  he  finally  ef- 
fected a  landing,  andpfafter  spending  an  hour  in  endeavoring 
to  reconnoitre  the  north  coast  and  to  ascertain  whether  or  not 
documents  had  been  left  by  any  of  the  other  searching  parti<'s, 
attempted  to  return  to  the  vessel.  But  this  was  imposslhh'. 
The  ice  had  changed  its  position  and  was  now  a 

TOSSING,    GRINDING,    ROARING    MASS 

of  danger.  Night  was  on,  and  the  unfortunate  men  were  com- 
pelled to  draw  up  their  boat  on  the  beach  and  shelter  them- 
selves beneath  it.     The  cold  was  intense,  and  Captain  Ken- 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  229 

iiedy  was  compelled  to  restrain  his  men  from  taking  more  than 
intermittent  naps  during  the  entire  night. 

At  length  morning  dawned,  but  not  a  vestige  of  their  vessel 
was  in  sight;  they  were  now  in  danger  and  perhaps  doomed. 
Winter  was  upon  them— and  the  hope  for  rescue  in  the  follow- 
ing spring  was  their  great  comfort.  Most  fortunately  Sir 
James  C.  Koss  had  built  a  house,  left  stores,  and  a  launch  upon 
Uhaler  Point  in  1849.  To  these  the  unhappy  men  at  once  re- 
I)aired  and  found  them  in  excellent  condition.  A  dwellin-r- 
place  was  soon  provided  in  the  launch,  and  healed  bv  '<  ans 
of  a  stove  and  fuel  which  were  among  the  supplies  nuind 
IVmmican,  biscuit  and  chocolate  were  their  food.  A  week 
l)assed,  Avhen,  on  the  17th,  they  were 

JOYFULLY  SURPRISED 

by  the  appearance  of  the  iiltrepid  Bellot,  who,  with  seven  men, 
had  succeeded  in  dragging  the  jolly-boat  over  the  ice  from  the 
ship,  after  having  made  two  previous  ineffectual  attempts  to 
do  so.     Returning  to  the  ship,  the  winter  wore  away,  when 
on  February  25th,  Kennedy  and  liellot,  with  six  men  and  four 
sledges,  drawn  by  dogs  and  men,  began  the  spring  work  of 
search  and  exploration.     Traveling  the  east  coast  of  North 
Somerset,  1  he  ptirty  arrived  at  Fury  Beach  on  the  5th  of  March. 
Here  the  preserved  soups  and  vegetables  deposited  by  Sir  John 
IJoss  thirty  years  previous  were  found  in  perfect  condition. 
The  flour  had  become  caked  into  soft  lumps,  but  upon  being 
ivground  and  passed  through  a  sieve  made  excellent  biscuit.  " 
At  its  southern  extremity  they  crossed  Victoria  Strait  and 
thoroughly 

EXPLORED    PRINCE    OF    WALES    LAND, 

(hence  recrossing  to  North  Somerset,  followed  its  north  coast 
back  to  the  starting  point.  Thus  terminated  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  sledge  Journeys  on  record,  during  which,  in  ninety- 
seven  days,  eleven  hundred  miles  were  traveled  without  ill- 
ness or  accident. 

Finally  released  from  a  ten  months'  imprisonment  in  the 
ice,  the  "Prince  Albert"  crossed  Barrow's  Strait  to  Cape  Riley, 


230 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE: 


where  was  met  the  "North  Star,"  under  command  of  Captain 
IMillen,  who  had  returned  from  his  trip  to  Bering's  Strait  and 
had  been  despatched  with  tlie  "North  Star"  as  a  depot-ship  to 
the  squadron  of  Sir  EdAAard  Belcher. 

It  was  now  determiued  that  tlie  "Prince  Albert"  should 
return  to  England,  and,  although  both  Kennedy  and  Bellor 
eagerly  endeavored  to  joii  Sir  Edward's  squadron  and  to  allow 
the  "Prince  Albert"  to  return  to  England  in  charge  of  others, 
it  was  finally  decided  otherwise  and  accordingly  Lady  Frank- 
lin's vessel  again  directed  her  course  homeward,  arriving  ul 
Aberdeen,  October  7th,  1852,  after  an  absence  of  fifteen  months 
without  the  loss  of  a  man. 


NATIVE  NEEDLE-CASE, 
rreseDt«d  to  0.  F.  Hall  when  on  Eins  William  Land,  1869. 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE     WORLD. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

VOYAGE  OF  M'CLURE  AXD  COLLIXSON:     DISCOVERY 
OF  A  NORTHWEST  PASSAGE. 

Lenvins  for  a  timo  the  vessels  condnctino.  tlu^  .soairh  bv 
^y  of  Lane-aster  8o„„d,  we  return  to  c-onsic^..  wb.  t^n  ,  ^ 
>  lnl(N  ^yas  be.n^  done  by  way  of  Bering's  Strait-efforts   e 
n.,^  to  the  discovery  of  the  northwest  .^ssao.  and  !    i   ..    t 
|o .-  of  the  n.ost  pleasin,  as  well  as  n.st  ^^i^^/^nZ 
in  Arctic  research.  *    .ui.unts 

■•I,n'™t"ato'r'M,nr  T  ','""™  "'  *"^  "Enterprise"  .,,,.1  tho 
uncsrigator,    under  Sir  James  (\  !{()««    in  ISiO   fi.  . 

a..i„  mtea  out  ana  ..t  «an  ,..,.,„  Eu,,,:',  Z  Z^^^.^Z: 

M.>,  1850,  Capfa,,,  It.  ,..,„i„„„„,  .onnnanclius  offl.-,.,,  „•  M, 

I..  L.  McClure  m  .-harst.  „f  the  "I„v,«tioat„.-."   Each  vesse 

',:"'■■'„  ^"•"'P't""^'"  "f  -•''*.-»!-  men;an,„„«  the  1  M  ,! 
Kev  M...  M,er  schi,,,,  an  enthusiast,.-  (ier.nnu  Sm-av  a„       ^ 

I.,  bl.Hl„r.     He  aeo„u,pa.,ie<l  Cm ,„le,.  M,C|-,M-e'»  Khh,  as 

...  erpre  er     The  erews  wore  sti.v  ,„a,Ie  „p  „f  vol  ,  ,'eer 

who  ha,   al.-ea,l.v  see,,  A,rti,.  service,  MeClare  havi,,.   beeu  ■ 
l,-..ste(l  lieutenant  uniler  lioas  in  1S48.!) 

Ilaving  set  sail,  the  vessels  he,.a,ne'sepa,.ate,l  au.l  ,li,l  not 

a«a,n  n.eet  nnfl,  havius  i'"", <l  Cape  .loru,  thev  -i.J.Zt 

together  th,.ee  .nonths  late,-  in  the'lIhl-PaH    ?  ol    ^    Z 
thev  parted  ™,npan.v-never  aKaiu  t(,  meet 

Ead,  however  ea 1  in  tn,n  at  the  Saudwieh  Islands  and 

■         stores.  fr„,ts,  and  vegetables,  the  "Enterprise,"     ,1  r 
..p  a,«  (  ollinson,  p,e,edinK  tl„.  "r„v,.sti^.ator"  „n  the  wa  ■    , 
ller,nK's  Strait  b.v  abont  a  week  •* 

w..h  Islands,  a  rumor  was  there  current  to  the.  effect  that, 


:m 


232 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


should  the  "Enterprise"  arrive  earlier  at  Kotzebiie  Sound,  jnsi 
beyond  the  strait,  as  by  reason  of  her  superior  speed  was  prob- 
able, Captain  Collinson  would  then  proceed  with  the  "Plover" 
still  at  anchor  in  the  sound,  and  order  the  "Investigator"  (o 
remain  there  in  her  stead. 

This  served  to  rais(>  the  ardor  of  every  man  on  board  the 
"Investijrator"  to  the  liij-hest  de«;ree,  and  remeniberino-  Dial 
the  race  is  not  always  to  the  swift,  McClure  again  set  sail 
on  the 

FOURTH    OF   JULY. 

taking  advantage  of  every  breeze  till,  twenty-five  <lays  latci-, 
he  arrived,  without  accident,  in  Kotzebue  Sound. 

The  "Plover"  ha<l  seen  nothing  of  the  "Enterprise"  and 
accordingly  the  "Investigator"  again  set  sail  within  forty-eigln 
hours  and  was  soon  out  of  sight  on  the  rough  surfaceOf  the 
stormy  strait. 

On  August  2d,  latitude  72",  the  first  heavy  ice  was  me(, 
and  ui)on  it,  basking  in  the  ceaseless  sunshine,  were  immense 
herds  of  walruses,  embracing 


HUGE    BULLS 

with  long  and  frightful  tusks,  and  females,  and  "baby"  wal- 
ruses, with  their  nu'ek  and  innocent  countenances. 

Some  of  these  creatures  weighed,  it  was  estimated,  as  much 
as  3,500  pounds— nu)re  than  a  ton  and  a  half!  The  ice,  when 
relieved  of  this  great  weight,  rose  two  feet  higher. 

A  gun  having  been  loaded  with  grape  and  canister  for  the 
purpose  of  firing  upon  a  herd  of  these  creatures,  Mc( Mine's 
heart  was  so  tonched  at  the  mutual  affection  displayed  amoiii: 
themselves,  esjjecially  between  mothers  and  babes,  that  lir 
countermanded  the  order. 

It  was  noticed  that  sometiuuvs  a  female,  or  "cow,"  suckled 
two  "calves,"  although  but  one  is  Uw  usual  number  of  Ikt 
offspring  at  a  time,  a)ul  which,  it  is  said,  is  dependent  upon  her 
breast  for  the  first  twelve  or  eighteen  months  of  its  existence. 

When  mature,  these  animals  feed  upon  submarine  plants 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  233 

and  clain.s,  j.reat  quantities  of  llio  latter  being  found  in  the 
stoniacli  of  tlie  wali'ius,  and  without  any  of  the  shell. 

The  "Investi-atoi"  was  able  to  make  rapid  prooress  along 
the  American  coast,  and  soon  passed  Point  Jiarrow,  and  by  the 
morning  of  August  (Jth,  1850,  no  further  anxiety  was  felt  ou 
board  as  to  the  possibility  of  entering  the  Arctic  Ocean  by 
way  of  Bering's  Strait.  , 

The  aspirati<m  of  all  was  now  to  push  on  to  Melville  Island 
However,  as  a  great  body  of  ice  appeared  in  that  direction" 
Mc(Mure  decided  to  follow  the  lane  of  water  between  the  shon' 
and  the  sea-ice  and  httain  if  i)oss:ble  the  "open  sea"  of  I)r 
Wichardson,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River. 

Two  days  later,  when  alM)ut  (»n(>  hundred  twenty  miles 
cast  of  Point  liarrow,  a  man  was  sent  ashore  to  leave  dis- 
patches  and  erect  a  cairn.  Here  Eskimos  were  met,  and  after 
tlH'  custon.ary  form  of  salutation,  namely,  that  of  rubbing 
noses,  had  been  ])ei'fornied,  friendly  intercourse  was  estab- 
lished. At  first  sight  of  the  api,roaching  ship  the  Eskimos 
were  greatly  astonished  to  see  three  great  trees— the  masts— 
n.oving  about.  They  informed  Captain  Mc(Mure  that  an  open 
<  lannel  of  water  from  three  to  five  miles  wide  would  exist  all 
along  the  shore  from  that  time  till  winter,  but  could  not  tell 
whon  the  winter  would  begin. 

Here  tlu'  coast  was  one  vast  plain,  having  a  soil  of  dark- 
blue  clay,  not  a  stone  being  visible,  and  the  entire  extent  cov- 
ered with 

AN    IMMENSE    GREEN    MAT 

of  grasses  and  mosses  variegated  with  a  large  number  of  bril- 

.antly  colored  tlowers.     Large  herds  of  reindeer  and  numerous 

'locks  of  wild  fowl,  such  as  the  common  and  king  eider  ducks 

.'nhvencl  the  pea<.ef„l  scene.     (Jreat  quantities  of  <lriftwood 

ay  strewn  along  the  beach,  while  just  beyond  it  all,  upon  the 

hosom  of  the  cheerless  Arctic,  rested  the  impenetrable  edo-e 

ot  an  unmeasure,!  ice-continent  from  thirtv  to  forty  feet  hi 

thicknes,s.     And  how  great,  therefore,  must  have  been   tlu^ 

astonishment  of  the  simple  yet  affectionate  natives  as  thev 

beheld  the  "great  white  handkerchiefs,-  as  they  called  the  sails, 


i  m 


284 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE  NORTH   POLE; 


waving  U>  them  from  the  "luoviug-  trees"  and  urging  the  veH^-I 
onward  from  a  region  which  had  always  been  to  tliem  one  of 
terror  and  mystery. 

On  the  14tli  of  August  the  "Investigator"  found  lierself  in 
longitude  141S"  17'  west,  which  was  past  the  point  of  Franklin's 
farthest  west  in  182(i. 

Although  greatly  delayed  by  reason  of  numerous  shoals 
at  one  time  being  aground  five  hours,  she  succeeded  in  arrivino 
off  the  uiouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  fifty  miles  from  the  mainhunr 
Here,  on  the  2LM,  Captain  Pullen,  upon  his  return  fr«;m  a  jour' 
ney  along  the  coast  east  of  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  passed 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  "Investigator"  without  either  party 
being  aware  of  each  other's  presence. 

On  the  24th,  near  Cape  Warren,  a  party  of 

HOSTILE    ESKIMOS 

were  met  with,  but  were  soon  brought  to  friendly  terms  upon 
perceiving  that  no  harm  was  to  be  done  them.  'vVhen  asked 
why  they  did  not  trade  with  the  whites  along  the  great  river— 
the  Mackenzie— they  replied  that  it  was  because  the  white  men 
had  given  to  the  Indians  "colored  water  that  rendere<l  tluMu 
savage  and  took  away  their  reason  and  that  thev  desired  none 
of  it  among  themselves." 

The  big-hearted  McCMure  warmed  with  sympathy  for  this 
hardy  people,  and  he  thus  wriies,  says  the  e(,ually  compassi,.n- 
ate  and  equally  gallant  Lieutenant  Sherard  Osborn: 

"Would  that  some  practically  Christian  bodv,  such  as  the 
Moravian  mis,sionaries,  could  send  a  few  of  their  brethren 
amongst  tho  tribes  of  Esquimaux  who  wander  along  the  Polar 
Sea,  to  carry  to  them  the  arts  and  advantages  of  civilized  life 
and  trust  to  Ood,  in  his  own  good  time,  showing  the  wav  of 
eternal  life! 

"Such  men  as  Mr.  Miertschiug  would  in  a  few  years  iierfecl - 
iy  revolutionize  this  docile  and  intelligent  race."* 

Fluspended  from  the  ear  of  the  chief  of  the  tribe  at  Port 
Warren  was  a  brass  button  of  European  manufacture,  and 
which,  the  Eskimos  related,  had  belonged  to  a  white  man  who 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


235 


(jinie  anions  tlioni  from  tho  woHtward  in  company  witli  others 
of  his  own  ra(v.  Tlicy  also  said  that  the  white  men  liad  no 
boat;  that  tliey  built  a  house  and  then  departed  inland;  that 
the  owner  of  the  button  luul  been  killed  by  a  native,  who, 
seein-  the  j»reat  ship,  tied;  and  that  the  murdered  man  had 
been  buried  by  tne  ehief  and  his  son.  Unfortunately,  how- 
ever, they  could  Hive  no  idea  of  h.nv  Ion-  since  all  this  occurred. 
Mc( 'lure's  men  visited  the  house  referred  to,  but  found  that 
It  was  a  very  old  one  and  that  its  tenants  had  vacated  it  years 
before. 

A  thick  fojr  warned  the  i)arty  to  return  to  the  ship  and  the 
Srave  was  not  seen. 

Toward  the  close  of  Aui-ust  another  tribe  of  natives  was 
met  near  Cape  Bathurst,  and  in  return  for  presents  McCIure 
succeeded  in  getting  these  friendly  ],eople  to  agree  to  carry 
messages  to  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  The  women  becam'e 
so  greatly  excited  at  the  nnexpecte<l  distribution  of  presents 
that  they  became  unmanageable  and,  rushing  upon  the  stores 
earned  off  whatev(^r  they  could  without  the  least  compunction; 

.Still  working  her  way  eastward,  the  "Investigator"  was 
employed  between  the  1st  and  5th  of  .September  in  passino- 
J-ranklin  Bay,  an  arm  of  the  sea  just  opposite  Baring's  Land^ 
and  embraced  between  Capes  Bathurst  and  J»arry. 

On  the  day  previous  to  arriving  at  Cape  Parry 

LARGE    FIRES    ON    SHORE 

were  observed  and,  moving  to  and  fro  between  these  and  the 
vessel,  were  figures  in  white.  "Franklin!  Franklin!  Franklin 
at  last!"  was- the  thrilling  thought  that  ran  through  the  ex- 
cited  minds  of  the  searchers  as  they  hastened  toAvard  the  shore 
But  It  was  not  Franklin,  nor  the  encampment  of  any  of  the 
long-lost  men,  that  was  seen-only  a  few  volcanic  mounds 
of  burning  sulphur  and  a  c.»ntiguous  spring  to  which  the  rein- 
(leer  of  the  regiou-"the  moving  figures  in  white"-resorted 
lor  drink. 

Leaving  the  mainland,  the  "Investigator"  proceeded  north- 
ward to  a  newly-discovered  territory  which  M<(1nre,  in  ignor- 


4^.  f^ 


236 


THE  SEARCH    FOR    THE   NORTH    POLE; 


aiico  of  its  being  coniKH'tod  with  the  already-diHeovered  Bank's 
Laud,  named  in  lionor  of  tli  Lord  of  the  Adinirall.v,  Harin<;'.s 
l.aii'1. 

Farther  east,  Prince  Albert's  Land  was  reached,  and  its  in- 
terior found  to  exliibit  ranj»*'s  (»f  niouulains  covercHl  witli  sii()>v. 

The  southern  fii'4l»t  of  j^ulis  and  otiier  binls  indicat^MJ  the 
near  ai»i»roach  of  winter. 

Enterin.'.r  tltc  narrow  <-luinn  1  of  water  separatluf;  rtanlc's, 
or  l^aiui^'s.  Land  on  tlie  wesi  from  Prince  Albert's  iiand 
on  the  east,  tlie  J)tli  of  September  found  the  sliip  but  sixty 
miles  from  Harrow's  Strait.  This  water-avenue  was  calletl 
Prince  of  Wah's  Strait.     Says  McCiiire: 

"I  cannot  describe  my  anxious  feelings.  Can  it  be  possibh 
that  this  water  <'ommunicates  with  Barrow's  Strait,  and  shall 
jjrove  to  be  the  long-sought  Northwest  Passage?  Can  it  hi 
that  so  humble  a  creature  as  I  will  be  permitted  to  ])erforni 
what  has  battixnl  the  talentecl  an<l  wise  for  hundreds  of  vears? 
But  all  praise  be  ascribed  to  Him  who  has  conducted  u.s  so  far 
on  our  way  in  safety.  His  ways  are  not  our  wa\  s,  nor  are  the 
means  that  He  uses  to  accomplish  Mis  ends  within  our  com- 
prehension. The  wisdom  of  the  world  is  foolishness  with  Him." 

Winter  was  now  upon  the  struggling  vessel  and  sh<'  was 
soon  beset. 

A  south  wind  on  the  Kith  caused  her  to  drift  norihwanl 
until  within  thirty  miles  of  Melville  Bay  which,  with  Barrow's 
Strait,  Lancaster  S(mnd,  and  Baffin's  Bay  connects  with  the 
Atlantic  Ocean. 

Here,  In  the  pack-ice,  McClure  decided  to  winter.  The 
"Investigator"  was  housed  over,  the  south,  or  sunny  side,  heiii" 
left  open  as  hmg  as  possible.  The  dreary  months  were  spent 
in  explorii:  :  the  adjacent  coast  and  in  huntin^i'  the  game  which 
was  almost  incredibly  abundant.  Keindccr  were  seen  in  herds 
of  from  sixty  to  ninety  each,  while  one  valley  was  white  with 
ptarmigans  and  hares.  A  polar  bear  measuring  ten  feet  in 
length  and  whose  f(X)t-prints  were  twelve  inches  in  diameter, 
was  killed. 

On  one  occasion  a  young  carpenter,  Whitfield  by  name,  he- 


OR.    UFB    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


237 


camp  HppartihMl  from  MIh  coniimiiioiiH  while  I 


>triiv«>(l  from  tliom  noainst  tl 
join  them 


luufliij;.     lie  hjwl 


icir  wIshcN  and  was  unable  ( 


o  re 


Lonj?     ml  anxiously  Ins  comrades  lo,,ked 
him;  but  all  in  vain.     A  dense  snow-storm  sudd 
and  the  searehers  soujrht  safety  in  their  tent. 

Presently  a  noise  as  of  a  polar  In 


aiii!  called  for 
vuly  i)revaile<l 


tieM's  fate!  thouj»ht  the  uien 

iM'tween  the  tenMIap.s  and  beheld,  not  "a  yard 

li}iur<«  erect  and  rij^id  in  tl 


ar  was  heard.     Poor  Whit- 

whereui)on  one  of  (hem  looked 

away,  a  slrany-e 


le  snow, 


It  w 


as  indeed  the  unfor- 


Oinate  youn-  man.  There  he  was,  upon  his  knees,  his  hands 
raised  above  his  head  in  the  attitude  (,f  praver-stilT,  snc^ech- 
less,  motionless,  y,  t  not  dead. 

Quickly  his  companions  oe^^an  the  work  of  resuscitation, 
iind  his  life  was  happily  saved. 

lie  had  liear<l  his  a.ssociates  calling;  to  him,  and,  fcdh.winjr 
...  the  directi(,n  .f  the  sij^nals,  benumbed  and  unable  t(,  an^ 
swer  succeeded  in  almost  reachin-  the  tent  when  his  strength 
utterly  failed  and  he  f(dl  into  the  positi<»n  (h-scribed 

I)..nnn.  the  winter  the  ship  was  visited  by  a  raven,  which, 
l.<.wever,  disappeared  with  the  return  of  sunlight  and  was 
greatly  missed  by  the  men. 

Oil  the  18tli(,f  April,  1851,  three  explorino  parties  left  the 
ship,  traveling  in  as  many  dift'erent  diivcHons,  namelv,  south- 
.•as  .  nortlH.ast,  and  northwest.  These  -aversed  al'together 
.'.ght  hundred  mi!  s  of  territory  and  en  K.l  cairns  and  de- 
posited  mformatio,    for  any  wanderers,  wherever  <lesirable 

he  party  that  iraveled  in  a  southeasterly  course,  un<ier 
M.(  hire  hnnself,  Mr.  Mierts<.hi„.  accompany  in,,  ,„.t  n  partv 
of  very  triemlly  Eskimos  who  accurately  traced  for  them  the 
.oast-line  of  ^Xollaston    and    Vict<,ria    ian.ls.     It    was     1  en 

The  month  of  May  was  mainly  sp<.nt  in  i^etting  the  vessel 
and  stores  in  readiness  for  the  summer's  voyaoe.  ^The  health 
;;f  <he  men  was  ftood  and  not  a  sign  of  scurvv  was  <letecte  1- 
a  record  unparalleled  in  the  history  of  Arctic  vova-^" 


■1'  -fii 

4mh 


tm 


238 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


On  M«.v  21sr  rouuiuuuU'v  McCluro  Mlu.t  ii  \mu;  the  Htomnrl, 
.    of  which  coiHaiiHHl 

A    CURIOUS    MEDLEY 

Of  niiMiuN,  plems  of  tobucco-h.af,  bits  <»f  fat'imrk,  niul  fn,-.. 

inciils  of  slirkiiiH-piaNtci'.  ** 

I'iofoniHl  \Yi\H  the  m.VNtciy  and  pi-ofoimdci-  still  wer«.  tlir 

tluM.iM.s  advanced  ti.amMu.t  for  thmM'videnms  of  (•ivili/,a(i.,n 
(hns  foun.i  in  Ihe  dij-csfivc  o.-oans  of  a  wandcnn}.-  hear 
An.ono  (iH.  (.x|,lana(ions(dTcr<.d  were  two  to  the  elVect  that  the 
linnorv  ereatnre  ,nn.st  either  have  rai(hMl  tlie  hmhT  (,f  the 
'  hnterpnse,"  poMsibl.y  not  far  distant  at  (hat  ver.y  time,  or  els,, 
(onie  „po„  some  <,f  the  provisions  left  uv  tin-own  overboanl 
bv  tlie  "Investigator"  in  the  conrse  of  tiie  previons  antnn.n 
^  A  tui  can  containing?  portions  of  tiiese  articles  and  lyin- 
in  the  midst  of  man.v  bear's  tracks  was  shortly  afterwanls 
t<.nnd  in  the  vicinity  of  the  ship  and  put  to  rest  further  investi- 
gation. 

On  May  27th  the  first  j-ull  was  seon,  and  that  was  held  as  a 
sign  of  a  break  in  the  ice. 

Not  until  August  lOth  was  the  "Investigator"  able  to  leave 
tlie  strait- and  then  only  by  directing  her  bow  sonthwani 
Kounding  Nelson's  Head,  at  the  southern  extremitv  of  Rank's 
Land,  she  then  passed  up  the  west  side  and  round  the  north- 
west corner  of  the  island,  where  hei-  farther  progress  was 
stopped  for  the  time-being,  on  the  2()th  of  August. 

Here,  feeding  quietly  upon  the  shore,  could  be  seen  droves 
of  musk-oxen  and  reindeer. 

^  The  "Investigator"  slowly  drifted  eastward  with  the  tloe- 
i(«S  glaciers  and  icebergs  being  noticeably  absent  in  the  lo- 
cality—a  characteristic  feature  of  all  regions  so  far  discovered 
west  of  the  Hoth  meridian. 

When  on  shore  on  the  27th,  Lieutenant  McHure  (ob- 
served a  group  of  hills  about  three  hundred  feet  high  and  cov- 
ered from  base  to  summit  with  an  abundance  of  wood  and 

LAYERS    OF   TREES, 

some  of  them  protruding  from  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  above 


OR.     lAFK    FN    TIIF]    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  239 

the  Hurfacc,  and  no  tirm  tliat  they  coiihl  not  be  broken  by  hcv- 
<'ial  men  jumping  upon  I  hem.  The  hii-gest  of  thcMo  measui-eU 
(die  foot  seven  inclM'.s  in  diameter. 

On  Septcmbei-  nth  a  similar  deposit  of  wood  was  observed 
(.11  the  north  si(h'  <»f  a  ravine  for  a  dei)tii  of  forty  fe<'l  from  th<' 
surfaee.  The  t(.tal  depth  of  tiie  ravine  was  two  hnndred  feet. 
The  ground  ai-ound  the  trees  was  of  .sand  and  shin-h'.  Some 
of  I  he  wood  was  petrified  and  some  was  rotten. 

Fresii-water  hilies  were  also  fonnd  and  in  one  of  them  were 
salmon  from  three  to  twelve  inches  in  len<;(li.  Many  rnins  of 
Kskimo  habitations  lonj.'  since  abandoned  aUracle'd  carefnl 
Jiltention—bnt  still  no  traces  of  the  mi.ssinu.  Franklin  ap- 
peared. 

Time  passed  and  litlle  that  was  new  occurred  till  on  the 
l!Hh  of  Septembt^r  lw(»  wlmles  wer(>  <d)served,  api)arenllv  (rav- 
clinn- westward— po.ssiblyjourneyin<.  from  Hallin's  IJav'to  Ihe 
waters  adjacent  to  IJerino'.s  Strait. 

At  lenoth,  on  the  241h,  after  a  perilous  escape  from  an  ice 
Jiin.,  the  "Invest ioat(.r"  put  safely  into  a  biyht  on  the  north 
••••ast,  whnh,  in  -ratilude  for  tli(>ir  providential  care,  McClure 
named  the 

BAY  OF    GODS    MERCY. 

Ib-ro  the  wint(>r  of  Lsni-2  was  spent,  oanus  .'speciallv  reindeer 
and  hares,  alMMindino  in  marveh)us  numbers. 

Two  ravens  made  the  rinoi„o  „r  the  vessel  their  home  dur- 
n.j.  (he  m.mtl.s  .>f  darkm'.ss,  .sharino  with  the  doos  the  n-fus,. 
of  (li<»  messes. 

WISE    BIRDS 

they  w(^re,  for,  not  allow(Ml  by  the  doos  to  feed  u,,on  the  same 
pac(>  with  them,  they  would  allure  the  d<.us  oradnallv  from 
the  food  and  when  at  a  Ion-  distance  would  then  dart  Puddenl  v 
hack  to  the  feedino-  j.round,  makin-  wav  (piicklv  with  the 
H.e.cest  morsels,  oftentinu-s  leavin-  the  deluded  canines  noth- 
ni^-  but  cha<>rin  for  their  pains. 

When  huntino,  in  F(d)ruary,  1852,  Mr.  Kennedv,  havin- 
shet  and  s(M-er(dy  w<mnded  a  deer,  returned  to  the  ship  witli"^ 
out  following'  up  his  trophy  till  after  the  lapse  of  several  hours 


ii 


i!iii 


240 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


He  then  found  the  wolves  in  possession  and  could  soarcelv 
('.rive  them  away.  They  had  devoured  nearly  the  entire  car- 
cass, but,  determined  to  save  at  east  a  ])ortion,  he  seized  a  U% 
at  one  end  of  which  a  gaunt  wolf  pulled  while  he  tugged  at  the 
other. 

From  the  11th  to  the  28th  of  April,  Lieutenant  McCluro 
was  engaged  in  crossing  the  sea-ice  of  the  strait,  which  now 
bears  his  name,  to  Melville  Island.  Here,  in  the  Winter  Har- 
bor of  Parry,  he  hoped  to  obtain  provisions  and  information 
concerning  the  moveuHMits  of  others  of  the  search  expeditious. 
In  both  of  these  he  was  disappointed  and  returned  again  to  tlic 
shij),  arriving  on  the  11th  of  May. 

Provisions  became  scarce  about  this  time,  but  fortunately 
two  musk-oxen  were  slain  and  six  hundred  forty-seven 
pounds  of  meat  added  to  the  supply  of  food.  One  of  the  ani- 
mals killed  was  a  bull,  and  when  wounded  made  a  mad  attack 
upon  the  hunter,  who  was  eventually  compelled  to  fire  his 
ramrod  into  the  infuriated  beast  in  order  to  save  himself. 

Again  were  the  brave  men  of  the  "Investigator''  compelled 
to  pass  another  winter — 1852-3 — in  the  Bay  of  (Jod's  Mercy. 

Fortunately,  game  was  again  abundant,  the  reindeer  gath- 
ering in  tlie  vicinity  of  the  shi])  for  protection  agninst  the 
wolves,  whicli  continually  liarassed  the  defenseless  creatures. 

We  now  rcn-ert  to  the  "Enterprise."  Having  passed  the 
winter  of  1850-1  in  China,  she  made  her  way  during  the  ensuinj;' 
summer,  as  her  consort,  the  "Investigator,"  had  done  in  1850, 
to  the  soutl*  entrance  of  Prince  of  Wales  Strait.  Here,  in 
Walker  P.'.t,  on  the  T^rince  Albert  Land  side,  she  spent  the 
winter  of  1851-2,  leaving  which,  in  the  course  of  the  following 
summer,  she  made  her  way  along  the  west  coast  of  Baring's 
and  Bar,k's  lands,  as  the  "Investigator"  had  done  during  the 
preceding  summer. 

Before  arriving  at  the  northwest  corner  of  the  island,  how- 
ever, her  way  was  blocked  by  the  ice,  and  although  so  near 
the  Bay  of  Clod's  Mercy,  where  her  consort  was  still  imprisoned, 
she  was  compelled  to  return  to  the  s(mth  side  of  the  island, 
and  thence  along  the  coast  of  Wollaston  Land  to  Dolphin  atnl 


[■'pm-l; 


m  ^^^^^^^K 


II  nr] 


ln'i(l«i 
The  I 


her 
she 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  241 

rnion  Strait,  wboro  tho  winter  of  1852-8  wa.s  spent  in  Cam- 
Una^eBay.  Durin^  the  winter,  the  vessel  was  visited  by 
many  Eskimos  one  tribe  nuni bearing  more  than  two  hnndred 
1  be  natives  had  in  their  possession  a  piece  of  iron  whicli  nuun' 
still  believe  was  obtained  from  some  of  Franklin's  party 
<  rame  was  found  in  abundance  and  about  eleven  hundred  fishes 
were  also  secured.  The  "Knterprise"  succeeded  in  makin' 
her  way  thence  t<.  lOnohuid,  returnino-  by  the  route  on  which 
she  had  come,  whei-e  she  arrived  safely  in  1854. 


■  ti 


CAPTAIN  HALL,  TOO-KOO-LI-TOO  AND  E-BIER- 


BING. 


242 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


CHAPTEK    XXIV. 

liELCHER'S   SEARCH    SOrADRON.— RESCUE   OF 

McCLURE. 

TIk'  i)i'()l()iioe(l  abscnco  of  both  tlio  "Entcrpriise"  aud  the 
"luvcstij^ator"  occasioiiod  great  anxiety  in  P^nglaud,  and  the 
vessels  wliicli  we  have  already  noted  as  wintering  in  the  ice 
in  the  vicinity  of  Beechey  Island  in  1850-5  having  returned  to 
England  without  further  intelligence  of  either  Franklin,  Col- 
linson,  or  McClure,  a  relief  squadron  was  at  once  sent  out  under 
coniniand  of  Captain  Edward  Belcher.  The  vessels  sent  were 
the  "Assistance"  and  the  "Kesolute,"  under  Captains  Belcher 
and  Kellett;  the  provision  ship,  "North  Star,"  under  Coni- 
niander  Pullen,  who  had  returned  to  England  from  his  trij) 
to  Bering's  Strait  and  the  Mackenzie  Biver;  and  the  steam- 
tugs  "Pioneer"  and  "Intrepid." 

Tlu'se  reached  Barrow's  Strait  about  September  1st,  1S52, 
the  "Kesolute,"  Cai)tain  Kellett,  and  the  "Intrepid,"  Vom- 
man<ler  Mcdintock,  reaching  Melville  Island  on  the  5th. 
Here,  in  Winter  Harbor,  the  famous  winter  quarters  of  Parry, 
in  lSl<)-20,  they  Avere  soon  frozen  in,  the  fall  and  winter  months, 
however,  being  spent  in  endeavoring  to  discover  traces  of  the 
missing  ships. 

On  one  occasion.  Lieutenant  Meacham  chanced  to  inspect 
the  large  sandstone  upcm  which  Dr.  Fisher  had  engraved  tiic 
name  of  l»arry's  ship  thirty-three  years  before,  and  lher<',  upon 
its  summit,  he  observed  a  document  which,  u[)on  examination, 
was  found  to  be  a  record  left  by  (Vimmander  McClure  on  the 
occasion  of  his  visit  to  that  place  in  the  earlv  part  of  the  sum- 
mer of  1852. 

This  document  narrated  the  practical  accomplishment  of 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  243 

i be  northwest  passage,  and  the  location  of  the  "InvestiL.-,fo..- 
Ml  the  Bay  of  God's  Mercy.  investigator 

It,  however,  was  inferred  that  ConunancU'r  MeC^lure  had 

'  "  m7  n     r'T'  '"'•"«■  ''''  '^'"""-^'  of  '^-^^  to  the  nortlnves 
of  Melville  Islan<l,  and  acvonlinol,-  MeCMintock  and  C  h^'n 

^n  tlie  dlst  of  May,  while  on 

PRINCE    PATRICKS    ISLAND 

M  MlMi  to  that  fo,n.,l  by  Mrt'l,,,-,.,  „„e  hi„„lie,l  and  tweutv 
m.les  farther  „„„tl,,  i„  n,„u',  ,,,,,,1.     «o„u.  ,.f  the  t,.unks  rf 
the  ree.  f«un,|  ,„eas,„.e,l  f,,„„  ,„..,  fe.-t  ten  inehes  Z    ,re,  ?ee 
."  ..renmference,  and  when  «»ve,I  th,.„n«h  presen  e  T  ,x^v 
-"'part,  elose-sraine,,  appea.-anee.      It  .Tp,,  -a'  d     tl    t h  i^ 
ey  had  grown  in  the  san.e  locality,  an,l  tLi»,  to.-t  ei  ^m, 
ll'<Vl.»,-overy  of  .-oal  an,l  ,.oral  gro„  th.s  in  the  Bar  inv's  S  r  M 
.•.•K.on,  a.,  noted  by  the  gallant  and  observant  Shera      otZ 
P".nt»  very  elear,,   to  n  ninch  warn.er  t,.n,peratn  x  in  tJ    se' 
.■egi.,„»  .Inring  ,.ar!ier  geologi.-al  ages  *" 

While  MeClintoek  and  Mea.liani  were  thns  endeu„,i„„  . 
r"  er..ept  the  "Investigator"  in  a  supposed    '™    e  Vl    :  "m.i" 
"li"  .'-l  I'ri...e  I.atri,.k's  islands,  Vieutenant  I-i  ,/      ' 

l'omville,ofthe"l!eKolnte,"wereen..|.'e,li„  ;  J  T 
t"  the  Bay  of  Oo,l's  Mere;.  ""  ''  "'"'«"  ■"""•"''^■ 

AMID  THE  PRAYERS  AND  CHEERS 

of  tteir  comrades  at  the  shi,,s,  they  had  starte,!  on  the  10th 
of  March,  18ns     Meanwhile,  the  eonrageons  n,..,  on  b      . 

vest.gntor'  had  fonght  their  thinl  battle  >nrh  the  A  ,t   • 
nght-a  secon.I  one  in  the  Bay  of  Ood'x  Mev,,-  w    I  o',        1 

sh  p,  fo,  the  tnne  being  at  any  rate,  and  to  divide  his  partv 
...to  two  se,.tions,  one  to  travel  sontlnvar,!  and  to  end    ,v       o 

""""'  "y  "--V  "f  "ritish  A rica;   the  other,  u,  travel       s 

«.n.d  over  the  ice,  by  way  of  Barrow's  Htrait'and  L         ^  .r 


I 


244 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


On  the  5tb  of  April  a  fine  reindeer  was  i>repared  for  a 
hearty  meal,  of  which  all  were  to  partake  before  the  tiual  de- 
parture. ^ 

And  right  here  God's  mercy  was  again  poured  upon  these 
heroic  men.     Says  McClure: 

"While  walking  near  the  ship  *  *  *  we  perceive<l  a 
figure  walking  rajucMy  toward  us  from  the  rough  ice  at  the 
entrance  of  the  bay.  From  his  face  and  gestures  we  both  nat- 
urally supposed  at  first  that  he  was  some  one  of  our  party, 

PURSUED    BY    A    BEAR. 

r 

but  as  we  approached  him,  doubts  arose  as  to  who  it  could  be. 
lie  was  certainly  unlike  any  of  our  men;  but  recollecting  thai 
it  was  possible  s(mieone  might  be  trying  a  new  traveling 
dress,  preparatory  to  the  departure  of  our  sledges,  and  certain 
that  no  one  else  was  near,  we  continued  to  advance;  when 
within  aboi.t  two  hundred  yards  of  us,  this  strange  ligui-e 
threw  up  his  arms,  and  made  gesticulations  resembling  those 
of  an  Esquimaux,  besides  shouting  at  the  top  of  his  voice, 
words  which,  from  the  wind  and  intense  excitement  of  the 
moment,  sounded  like  a  wild  screech;  and  this  bnnight  us  to  a 
stand-still.  The  stranger  came  quietly  on,  and  we  saw  that 
his  face  was  black  as  ebony,  and  really  at  the  moment  \v<' 
might  be  pardoned  for  wondering  whether  ho  was  a  <Uniizen 
of  this  world  or  the  other,  and  had  he  but  given  us  a  glimpse  of 
a  tail  or  a  cloven  hoof,  we  should  assuredly  have  taken  to  our 
legs;  as  it  was,  we  gallantly  stood  our  ground,  and,  had  the 
skies  fallen  upon  us,  we  could  hardly  have  been  more  astou 
ished  than  when  the  dark-faced  stranger  called  out: 

'I'M    LIEUTENANT    PIM. 

*late  of  the  "Ilerahl,"  and  now  in  the  "Kesolute."      Captai'i 
Kellett  is  in  her  at  Dealy  Island.' 

"To  rush  at,  and  seize  him  by  the  hand,  was  the  first  iia- 
pulse,  for  the  heart  was  too  full  for  utterance.  The  announce- 
ment of  relief  at  hand,  when  none  was  supposed  to  be  even 
within  the  Arctic  Circle,  was  too  sudden,  unexpected,  and  joy- 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  243 

ous,  for  our  inlnds  to  oomproheiul  at  onee.  The  news  flew  with 
hj?htniu-  rapidity,  the  ship  was  all  iu  eomrnotion;  the  sick  for- 
Jjettins  their  maladies,  leapt  from  their  hammocks;  th(^  arti- 
lieers  dropped  their  tools,  and  the  lower  <le(k  was  eh^ared  of 
laen,  for  Ihey  all  rushed  to  the  hatchway  to  be  assured  that  a 
stranj?er  was  actually  amongst  them,  and  that  his  tale  was 
true.  Despondency  tied  from  the  ship,  and  Lieutenant  I'im 
received  a  welcome-pure,  hearty,  and  grateful-that  lie  will 
assuredly  remember  and  cherish  to  the  end  of  his  davs." 
On  this  same  day  occurred  the 

FIRST    DEATH 

on  board  the  "Investioator."  It,  however,  was  throuoh  the 
mans  own  folly,  bein-  occasi<,ned  by  his  driukin-  the  wash- 
ings from  a  number  of  medicine  bottles. 

McClure  pr.xeediMl  forthwith  to  endeavor  to  arrano^  with 
raptain  Kellett  f<,r  the  removalof  all  the  sick  on  board  the 
Investigator"  to  England,  while   he  would   remain   another 
season  i-ather  than  abandon  his  vessel.     With  what  stranov 
feelings  must  these  men  have  met  on  this  occasi(,n      It  w"s 
('aptain  Kellett,  who,  three  years  before,  while  in  ••ommaml 
of  tln>    Plover"  ,n  Bering's  Strait  had  the  auth<nitv  to  detain 
the  "Investigator"  m  the  arrival  of  her  cons<.rt-and  it  was 
now  he  whose  authority  must   be   consulted    respectino'    M(- 
Clnre's  future  i.lans.     A  consultation  was  therefore  held  wi^h 
Drs.  Armslrong  and  Domville,  who  at  once  united  in  an  un- 
favorable report  concerning  the  health  <,f  Mcriuie's  men  and 
•IS  proposition  to  remain  with  his  vessel  another  vear  'was 
for  that  reason,  condemned.     Tlie  "Investigator"  was  accord- 
ingly abandoned  and  the  nu^n  were  transferred  to  the  "H(.so- 
Inte"  and  the  "Intrepid,"  arriving  there  on  June  17th.     Here 
fliey  were  destined  to  spend  another  wintei--lsr).S-4— the  v<'s 
scls  of  theii  res<uers  continuing  beset  meanwhile.     The  man- 
:'«'i"  of  their  final  releas(>  we  have  now  to  consider 

While  Captains  Kellett  and  Mcriintock  w(Me  thus  ..ngaged 
n.  Hie  vicinity  of  Melville  Island,  Hie  former,  in  the  sprhuTof 
1Ho4,  received  the  following  message  from  Captain  lieleher 


i 


246 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


whose  sqiia«lron    nioainvhiU'    coiitinncd    in    the    vicinity    of 
Hcecliey  Ishind: 

"Slionld  Captiiiii  Collinson,  of  tlio  'Enterpriso,'  fortunately 
reaoh  you,  you  will  pursue  the  same  ('«»urse,  and  not,  under  any 
eonsideratiou,  risk  the  detention  of  another  season.  Thes«* 
are  the  views  of  the  {^overnnu'ut;  and  havinj^  so  far  explained 
myself,  I  will  not  hamper  you  with  further  instructions  than, 
meet  me  at  lieechey  Island,  with  the  crews  of  all  vessels,  be- 
fore the  20th  of  Au<»UHt." 

Greatly  surprised  at  Belcher's  directions,  Captain  KelletT 
dispatched  Captain  McClintock  to  infcu'm  the  squadron  com- 
mander of  the  almost  absolute  certainty  of  beinj»  able  to  save 
his  ships;  of  the  abundance  of  stores  on  hand;  of  the  health 
of  the  men;  and  of  his  disapproval  of  such  an  unnecessary 
movement. 

In  turn,  Belcher  sent  back  a  command  for  the  abandonment 
of  the  "Resolute"  and  the  "Intrepid,"  whereupon  Kellett,  an<l 
McClintock,  and  McClure  conducted  their  deeply  chagrin(Ml 
men  as  ordered.  The  brave  crew  of  the  "Investigator,"  who 
had  lived  through  such  trials  and  hardships  for  four  winters, 


STARED    TO    SEE 

all  hands  gradually  retreating  upon  Beechey  Island,  ready  to 
return  to  England  as's])eedy  as  possible. 

Leaving  the  "Enterprise"  to  work  out  her  own  salvation, 
the  combined  crews  of  the  "Resolute,"  the  "Assistance,"  the 
"Intrepid,"  the  "Pioneer,"  and  the  "Investigator,"  were  em- 
barked on  board  the  provision  ship  "North  Star,"  and  amidst 
almost  universal  dissatisfaction  returned  to  England,  where 
they  were  received,  in  September  of  the  same  year,  by  a  sym- 
pathizing but  disappointed  public.  The  -'Enterprise"  arrived 
there  about  the  same  time. 

Captain  McClure  was  formally 

TRIED    BY    COURT    MARTIAL, 

but  honorably  acquitted.      He  and    his  crew    were   awarded 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


247 


£50,000— half  of  the  Mum] 


ii(»rthw(\st  paMHaj»o,  while  McCl 


in«'  reward— for  havino^  discovered 


u 


and  several  of  his  oITH 


lire  was  kuio hied  by  the  Queen, 


Sir  Edward  IJekher 
acquitted.    Attheeoiieli 


<«'rs  were  deservedh 


promoted. 


M'  venerable  ehairnian  of   the    jud 


was  also  eourt-niartialed,  but  barel 
.sionofthetrial,  insionificautsil 


.y 


ence 


him  his  sword 


judiciary  committee    handed 


Sav 


•s  a  writer  of  the  da V 


'Meantime,  it  is  sad  to'think  of  those 

POOR  DOOMED  VESSELS, 


which  we  have  invested  witl 


deal  fashion,  deserted  thus  in  that  1 

can  fancy  in  the  1 

they  will  a 

in  the  dazzling  plain 


so  much  i)ersonality  in  our 


nau- 


<>ii«  CO'  .<n<;  winter,  h 


one  white  wilderness!     \V 


ppear  in  the  clear  moonlif.ht-the  onlv  dark  obi 


ai'ouiK 


',  iiow  weird  and  straime 


tects 


silence  and  solitude  all 

voices,  and  full-toned  shouts,  and 

often  wake  th 


How  solemn  and  opj)ressive  the 
iH-oundthem!     No  more  brcdcen  bv  tl 


earthly  sounds  that 


e  echoes  far  and 


swet 


i-iujiino'  laughter,  which 
U('ar;   varied  only  bv  the  u 


fissure  opens  in  th 


P  over  these  dreary  re-iou's  wli 


le 

S(t 

n- 


IIll''  o 


f  tl 


('  «reat  ice  fields,  or  th 


H'  wind  auK.n-  the  slender  shrouds  and 


(3  wild,  mournful 


en  a 
wail- 


iiuists,  that  stand 


the  snowy  background.     And 


so  sharply  defined  in  tl 


tall,  tapering 


pass,  till  the  snow  and  ic 


so,  perchance,  Ion 


lieir  blackness  ujMm 


i;  years  will 


e  may  have  crept  round  and 


them,  an(l  they  bear  less  resemblance  to  uobl 
than  to   shapeless   masses   of 


over 


coi 


crystal;   or, 
ning  winter  storm  ma.V  rend  the  bars  of 


c  English  sail 
more  likelv,  soi 


ers 


ne 


drive  them  out  in  its  fury  to  toss 


thei 


'*  prison,  and 


Higry  ice  gathers  around  its  prey,  and,  crusi 


upon  the  wave,  until  tl 


le 


nut-shells  in  its  miuht 


over  the  Avater— the  knell  of 
Arctic  solitudes." 


y  grasp,  sends  a  sullen  b( 


•'"g  them  like 


these  intrud 


)oming  roar 
crs  on  lh(>  ancient 


The  loss  of  tlK^se  vessels,  through  th 
ow  essential  in  a  command 


illustrates  h 

i'Mtience,  endurance,  and  will 
us  of  compevent  inferior  ofH( 


ID. 


!() 


c  rashness  of  one  m. 

cr  are  the  qualities  of 

"«"<'-^«  to  regard  the  good  opin- 
"ers. 


li 


248 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE. 


Kccalllnp;,  too,  tlio  ])r()l>iil)l('  fnto  of  FiankliirH  nobl*  aim, 
the  "ErcbuH"  ami  the  "Tciror,"  tlu'  rea<l('r  of  IIk^hc  pagvf*  vvlU 
not  fail  to  ai)i)"('(iat(',  in  lliis  coiiiKM-tion,  the 

GRAPHIC    LINES 

of  the  ]>o(»t  Montooinory: 

"There  lies  a  vessel  in  that  realm  of  frost. 

Not  wrecked,  not  stranded,  yet  forever  lost; 

Its  keel  embechled   in  the  solid  mass; 

Its  glistening  sails  appear  expanded  glass; 

The  transverse  ropes  with  pearls  enormous  stning, 

The  yards  with  icicles  groteHQiiely  hung. 

Wrapt  in  the  topmost  shrouds  there  rests  a  boy. 

His  old  sea-faring  father's  only  Joy; 

Sprung  from  a  race  of  rovers,  ocean  born. 

Nursed  at  the  helm,  he  trod  dry  land  with  scorn. 

Through  four-score  years  from  port  to  port  he  veer'd; 

Quick.sand,   nor   rock,   nor   foe,   nor   tempest   fear'd; 

Now  cast  ashore,  though  like  a  hulk  he  lie, 

His  son  at  sea  Is  ever  in  his  eye. 

He  ne'er  shall  know  in  his  Northumbrian  cot. 

How  brief  that  son's  career,  how  strange  his  lot; 

Writhed  round  the  mast,  and  sepulchered  in  air, 

Him  shall  no  worm  devour,  no  vulture  tear; 

Congcal'd  to  adamant,  his  frame  shall  last. 

Though  empires  change,  till  time  and  tide  be  past. 

Morn  shall  return,  and  noon,  and  eve,  and  night 

Meet  here  with  interchanging  shade  and  light; 

But  from  that  barque  no  timber  shall  decay. 

Of  theao  cold  forms  no  feature  pass  away; 

Perennial  ice  around  th'  encrusted  bow. 

The  peopled  deck,  and  fuli-rigg'd  mast  shall  grow 

Till  from  tlie  sun  himself  the  whole  be  hid. 

Or  spied  beneath  a  crystal  pyiamld; 

As  in  pure  amlier  with  diver?^   nt  lines, 

A  rugged  shell  embossed  with  sea-weed,  shines, 

From  age  to  age  increased  with  annual  snow, 

This  new  Mont  Blanc  among  the  clouds  may  glow 

Whose  conic  peak  that  earliest  greets  the  dawn. 

And  latest  from  the  sun's  shut  eye  withdrawn. 

Shall  from  the  ^.cnitli,  through  incumbent  gloom. 

Burn  like  a  lamp  upon  this  naval  tomb. 

But  when  tlie  archangel's  trumpet  sounds  on  high, 

The- pile  shall  burst  to  atoms  through  the  sky, 

And  leave  its  dead,  upstnrtinp;  at  the  call, 

Naked  and  pale,  before  the  Judge  of  all." 


t     '   :\i 


OR,    hU..    Ii\    THE    riRKAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


Zi3 


CHAPTKIf    XXV. 

TH1<:   AMERICAN    SEARCH    EXPEDITION. 
As  already  stated,  tlie  Tinted  Slates  i)artieii.ated  in  l) 


.s<'areli  for  tlie  iiiissi 


erallty  of  one  of  natu 


iiK  exiM'dition.     This  was  tlironuli  I  lie  lib 


wlio,  havinii  at  lii 


re's  noblest  men,  Mr.  II 


etirv  (Jrinnell. 


«  own  expense  tit  ted  ont  two  small  brias,  tl 


Advance,"    120   tons   and    ten    men,   and   tl 


'iiH,  tendered  the  useof  tl 


le 


«i.» 


ies(U( 


>'    < 


jmrpose  of  assi     inu  in  tl 


le  vessels  to  the  (lover 


le  seai'ch. 


iiment  for  the 


In  the  C<  uj^ressional  d 
of  the  offer,  Senator  Miller  said 


iscnssion,  eoneerning  tl»e  aeceptauee 


'1  tl 


•ink  it  onoht  to  receive  the  aj>probation  of  this  and  all 


other  Christian  nations,  t( 


I,  to  see  a  merchant  who,  while  tl 


niercial  world  are  enconipassin.o  the  olobe  b^ 

<|iiest  (»f  in-otit  and  of  -old,  is  dedicating.'  himself  tiih 

object,  and  devotin«»  a   part  <d'  his  fort 


liiimanitv 


Sir,  shall   it   be  said   that  this  ( 


le  com- 

sea  and  land  in 

is  j»reat 

line  to  the  cause  of 


lost  such  an  opportunity  as  this  of  exhil 
terest  whi(di  our  i)eople  le(d,  both  in  tl 


overnment   has 


>itln^'  the  deej)  i 


n- 


liumanity,  and  that,  too,  at  th 


le  cause  of  s<i<Mice  and 


e  \ 


into  treaties  and  <'oinpacts  with  all  th( 
the  world,  for  the  jjurpose  of  extend 


cry  tune  when  we  are  enteri 


ni»' 


li(»n,  and  opening  ceinmunications  of  trade  fi 


Senator  William  11.  Seward,  aft 
iimonji'  other  things,  said: 


ccunuiercial  nations  of 
Ufi'  commerce  and  civiliza- 
om  sea  to  sea?" 


erwards  Secretary  of  State 


'True  national  .ulory  is  alwavs  safel 


ecutino'  beneficent  d 


y  attained  bv 


4t 


csions,  whatever  mav  be  their 


pn 


>s- 


is  a  transaction  w<irthv  of  the  nat 


success. 


on,  a  spectacle  <le 


servin-  the  cont<Mnplation  and  resp,.rt  of  mankind,  to  s(.e  tl 


not  only  does  the  nat 

and  willing'  to  contribute,  voluntarily  and  without 


lat 


on  prosecute,  but  that  it  has  citisjens  able 

compulsion, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


fe 


'^O 


{./ 


/J^* 


/. 


M/i 


^ 


E?/ 


«> 


ij. 


1.0 


2.8 


1^ 

|50     ™^ 


M 

2.2 


I.I 


lis     10 


11.25 


18 


111^  111^ 


V 


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/a 


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C*^     4W'> 


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Pnotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(/16)  372-^503 


^^ 


^V 


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o 


;\ 


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'^:.^> 


250 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


to  au  enterprise  so  interestino-  to  the  cause  of  science  and  of 
humanity.     It  is  indeed  a  new  and  distinct 

CAUSE    FOR   NATIONAL    PRIDE, 

that  an  individual  citizen,  not  a  merchant  prince,  as  he  would 
be  called  in  some  other  countries,  but  a  republican  merchant, 
comes  forward  in  this  way  and  moves  the  Government  and  c<, 
operates  with  it.     It  illustrates  the  magnanimity  of  the  na- 
tion and  of  the  citizen." 

The  debate  resulted  in  the  acceptance  of  the  gift,  and  the 
Government  at  v  ^ce  detailed  from  the  navy,  officers  and  men 
to  take  charge  of  the  vessels.     Among  the  officers  were  Lieu- 
tenant Edward  De  Haven,  a  young  man  who  had  accompanied 
the  United  States'  Expedition  under  Commander  Wilkeif!,  in 
1843,  and  was  now  placed  in  command  of  the  "Advance"  and 
the  "liescue";    Mr.  S.  P.  Griffin,  acting  master,  in  charge  of 
the  "Rescue";  and  Dr.  Elisha  Kent  Kane,  chief  medical  officer. 
Dr.  Kane  was  summoned  from  his  field  of  labor  in  Mexico,  and 
although  but  thirty  years  of  age  and  of  almost  lifelong  bodily 
weakness,  he  was  of  that  nervous,  wiry  physique  which  en- 
ables some  persons  to  accomplish  and  endure  in  a  way  which 
surprises  not  only  others  but  themselves  as  well.     He  was  "a 
thorough  American"— a  "go-ahead"  one— directly  descended 
.from  four  of  the  best  races  in  the  world,  namely,  Irish,  Scotch, 
English,  and  Dutch. 

We  learn  that  he  was  called 

"THE    MAD   YANKEE." 

But  his  "madness"  was  of  good  blood  and  enabled  him  to  do 
things  in  the  midst  of  perils  and  in  spite  of  physical  weakness 
amounting  almost  to  prostration. 

Geology,  botany,  chemistry,  and  related  sciences  were  his 
delight,  and  he  became  proficient  in  th«m,  not  from  books  alone 
but  from  actual  observation  and  experiment. 

Graduating  in  medi<ine  at  the  age  of  twenty-two,  he  passed 
the  examination  for  tho  position  of  assistant  surgeon  in  tlic 
United  States  Navy  and  was  duly  appointed.     He  served  witli 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  251 

•li-stinction  and  great  bravery  in  the  war  with  Mexico  bein,. 

siimnioned  from  that  fr.nnt.Mr  f  -utxico,  oeiug 

VI  iiujii  cuat  country  to  accompany  the  exnediHrn. 

ICE-PACK  OF  MELVILLE  BAY 

wax  encountered     Here  the  v„,ager»  remained  fa.t  for  weeks 
he  polar  bears  visiting  them  in  abundance.    Later  exn,Ik'm  ' 

"ilVut'r  ^'■^"  '-'  •'  ""'  ---"-^'  '-  '- 
a-  ^er; rt^::.!?,  ^l^ i^;-  '-"  ""  "--r  to 

THE    NIMBLE    FRENCH    COOK, 

Who  was  standing  upon  the  mass  of  ice,  into  the  gaping  fissure 
and  into  he  ice  cold  water  some  thirty  feet  belov^^  The  dis- 
membered berg  floated  apart  and  the  frightened  little  French- 
man was  fortunately  rescued,  but  more  dead  than  aliye 

The  vessels  were  quite  five  weeks  in  crossing  Melville  Bav 
aaistance  less  than  three  hundred  miles,  and  which  might  have 
been  traversed  in  less  than  two  days.     Arriving  at 

CAPE    YORK, 

on  the  northern  shore  of  the  bay,  frequent  excursions  were 
made  from  the  vessels  for  the  purpose  of  studying  the  plant 
and  animal  life  of  the  region.    Here  were  the  wild  blueberry 
in  full  bloom  and  not  larger  than  a  hen's  egg;  the  willow,  lying 

CLOSE  TO  MOTHER  EARTH 

for  warmth  and  protection  and  reaching  scarcely  above  the 
shoe-tops;  the  honey-suckle  not  larger  than  a  tea-cup;  mosses 
lichens,  etc.  In  many  places  Dr.  Kane  ascertained  the  accu- 
mulation of  n.oss  to  be  five  feet  in  thickness  and  to  consist  of 
as  high  as  sixty-'Mght  layers,  representing  the  work  of  that 
number  of  years. 

lofty  cliffs,  Dr.  Ivane  narrates:  '      , 


252 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


"I'lfAcd  by  a  wish  to  study  the  habits  of  these  little  Arctic 

emiyrnuts  at  their  homesteads,  1  foolishly  clambered  up  tit 

one  of  their  most  populous  colonies,  without  thinking-  of  my 

descent.     The  angle  of  deposit  wa«  already  very  great,  not 

^  mucli  less  than  50°,  and  as  I  moved  on,  with  a  walking-ijolc 

'substituted  for  my  gun,  I  was  not  surprised  to  find  the  fraj'- 

mcnts  receding  under  my  feet,  and  rolling  with  a  resounding 

crash,  to  th{'  plain  below.     Stopping,  however,  to  regain  my 

breath,  I  found  that  everything— beneath,  around,  above  me— 

Avas  in  motion.     The  entire  surface  seemed  to  be  sliding  down. 

Ridiculous  as  it  may  seem  to  dwell  upon  a  matter  apparentlv 

so  trivial,  my  position  became  one  of  danger. 

"The  accelerated  velocity  of  the  masses  caused  them  to 
leap  otr  in  deflected  lines.  Several  uncomfortable  fragments 
had  already  passed  by  me,  some  even  over  my  head,  and  niv 
walking-i)ole  was  jerked  from  my  hands  and  buried  in  the 
ruins.  Thus  helpless,  I  commenced  my  own  half-involuntary 
descent,  expecting  njomentarily  to  follow  my  pole,  when  my 
eye  caught  a  projecting  outcrop  of  feldspar,  against  which  the 
strong  current  split  into  two  minor  streams.  This,  with  sonic 
hard  jumps,  I  succeeded  in  reaching." 

The  author  can  readily  appreciate  Dr.  Kane's  predicament 
and  give  willing  testimony  as  to  the  realistic  nature  of  the 
incident. 

When  on  the  grand  hunting  trip  for  reindeer  to  Olrik's 
Bay  in  September,  1893,  with  (\)mpanions  Entrikin,  Clark,  and 
Stokes,  of  Lieutenant  Peary's  North  Greenland  Expedition  of 
1893-4,  the  writer  wandered  alone  nearly  to  the  head  of  the 
bay  and  climbed  for  several  hundred  feet  a  similar  rock-debris 
with  other  hundreds  of  feet  of  the  same  material  still  above 
him,  but  was  compelled  to  desist  from  the  complete  ascent  of 
the  mountain  for  reasons  the  same  as  given  bv  Dr.  Kane 

Instead  of  studying  the  habitat  of  the  little  auk,  however 
the  writer  was  endeavoring  to  follow  the  perilous  path  of  the 
reindeer  and  to  obtain  a  better  view  of  the  uppermost  portion 
of  the  river-like  bay,  in  which  were  discovered  two  "-laciers 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  253 

"ue  an  active,  disthai-KinK  river  (if  i.o  ti.„    /■ 
"K'diate  head  of  the  htv    .       ",.'"  "^"^  "><■  "">«■,  at  thq  im. 
From  <'nn„  V    ,   .  •'     "'""''"'S  "«•  retreatia«  one. 

-elebiated  .vuZT^iZ  ''''™''  "'  ""'  ■^'*'"'^  '"  «"« 

..■'.Hn,  ti.: ':::;::f  jro"r'''Ce"''"  :""f "--"  .-- 

be  remembered,  were  first  dkeovln  ^T"""^"'  "'"''  ''  ^^"' 
tlieeminent  SwZZZIuTZ  ^^'  """"' '"  "!«■  "'""'"g" 

■ed  appearance  o,  the  rnowVnT  A?  '""  *""  "^•'"'  '"^  -- 
of  a  century  previouT  *"  "'"'''  "'""  «  I""""' 

Bank,  is  the  far-famed  al^e   ftiooj     L''"""'  "'""'  ^''"^'^^ 
of  "My  Summer  in  the  North"  i-a^     toneern.ny  it,  the  author 

abo":l\l'',ettoftrsef"';'''"'''''"'''  '''"'  ""'^  »  '""•  '-* 
'■"O-      *     *     •(\*lfr;v»'T''''"''"*'^^P'''«''k.  blood. 

t>.e  water  itself  tC  .s  pure  and  .'"  """"'•  """•^■'•^'■'  """ 
effect  being  due  to  lie  fi  hnt  I  7'',^  ''''"""^'  """  ■•«' 
'ate,  as  weU  as  the  few  stone  ,,,1"  '""'  """  ^'''<"'  "'  ♦'"■ 
it.  were  coated  most  prtiv  wit,  thr'' ,"'"''"''  """^  '" 
some  places,  where  the  w,ter  h.  ''  '"■"'■P'""*-      I" 

>■<■<!  plants  „;  the  s,^il  and  ro  r  >     i  ""P"'-"*""'  t^"  withere,! 
of  bl<H,d."  ''  '""''"  ^""^"^  '^■'^»<^tl.v  like  dried  spots 

The  color  of  the 

HED  SEA 

rrir :  ;:;r ::;  v^rr  "ir  ■■•^  -- "-  ■"- 

and  varying  in  extent  fron  ff  '""'  "■"'""  '*«  «"♦"■«. 

™->e.     In  riie  -spr  ^"m.  tl  ^  ie'    thisT  T  *"  """"  '"■"^■•<' 
'"•<!  all  such  places  Then  ^0,1?,  **     "  "'  "  ''<■''•'•  abundant 

'"<■  plant  is  abso^it,    he  w  to    i^  7  'T""  ""•    ^'"'"•"•''- 

---..oai  Places.  7:;:;;;;-;;:-/'--^ 


254 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


Sea -is  not  vory  salt,  conlaiiiinji  but  forty-ono  parts  of  saline 
matter  in  one  thousand  of  water.  The  heavier,  salt  particle;-;, 
sinkinjj;',  escape  as  an  onttlowing-  current  over  the  Mocha  bar- 
rier and  are  replaced  by  means  of  an  inflowing  sheet  of  fresher 
water,  the  entire  volume  of  the  sea  being  changed  every  year 
in  this  manner,  thereby  promoting  the  grov,th  of  the  little  red 
plant. 

Leaving  the  region  of  the  crimson  cliffs  about  the  middle 
of  August,  the  "Advance"  and  the  "Kescue"  were  able  to  nuike 
their  way  across  Davis  Strait  into  Lancaster  Sound,  where,  on 
the  21st,  they  overtook  the  "Felix,"  under  Sir  John  lioss,  who 
had  preceded  the  other  three  vessels  of  the  English  search 
expedition. 

Upon  meeting  the  Americans,  the  voice  of  Sir  John  was 
heard  to  ring  out,  loud  and  clear  above  the  creaking  of  the 
rigging  and  the  noise  of  the  wind:  "You  and  I  are  ahead  of 
them  all!" 

On  the  next  day  these  wei-e  overtaken  by  the  "Prince 
Albert,"  Captain  Forsyth.  The  meeting.of  these  vessels  was  an 
exceedingly  pleasant  one,  the  Americans  leading  the  way 
through  the  ice  in  a  way  that  elicited  the  admin'tion  of  the 
English.  By  reason  of  his  daring  ex])loits  on  this  occasion.  Dr. 
Kane  was  styled  the  "Mad  Yankee"  by  his  Britisli  associates. 

August  27th  found  five  vessels  near  Beechey  Island,  where 
a  concerted  plan  of  search  was  about  to  be  put  into  execution 
when  a  messenger  Avas  seen  to  approach  r  >idly  over  the  ice. 
Says. Dr.  Kane:     "The  news  he  brought  was  thrilling! 

'GRAVES,      CAPTAIN      PENNY!      GRAVES!      FRANKLIN'S      WINTER 

QUARTERS!" 

"We  were  instantly  in  motion.  Captain  De  Haven,  Captain 
Penny,  (\^mmander  Phillips,  and  myself,  with  a  i)arty  from 
the  'Rescue,'  hurried  on  over  the  rugged  sloi)e  that  extends 
from  Beechey  to  the  shore,  and,  scrambling  over  the  ice,  came 
after  a  weary  Avalk  to  the  <-rest  of  the  isthmus.  Here,  amid 
the  sterile  uniformity  of  suoav  and  slale,  were  the  headboards 
of  three  graves,  made  after  the  orthodox  fashion  of  gravestones 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GIIEAT    WHITE     WORLD.  ^55 

all.on,,..    TI,o  ,„„,„„|.s  wiml,  ,,,lj„i„o,I  t|,o,„  wovo  ,„.,,,„„,„| 
with  s„.,„.  i.,.etc.„»,ou.  to  »y,u,„...,.v,  ..„„o,.  „„„  ,U.f,.n,|,„     ^ 

which  «•,,«  ,Ust„„.Uy  vLsible  ,„.,.„«..  „  li,t|o  c„v.  at  Ihcf  lis/a  .^l 
ot .son.,,  four  hua.l>v,l  ya,<l..     u„„„  ti„.»,.  „t„u„«  „.<.,.„»■" 
tion.  wind,  couve^od  iuipovtaiK  iafonuatio,,.    Tb.  ti  7  cut 
With  a  chisel,  ran  thus:  '  ^"^ 

'Sacred 

to  the 

memory 

of 

Wm.  Braine,  R.  M. 

H.  M.  S.  Erebus. 
Died  April  3d,  1846, 
aged  32  years. 
Choose  ye  this  day  whcm  ye  will  serve.    Joshua,  chap.  24:lo.'  " 

The  above  inscriptiou  appeared  on  the  stone  the  most  re- 
mote from  the  base  of  the  slope. 

Upon  the  board  in  the  center  was  inscribed:  "Sacred  to 
the  n,emory  of  John  Ilartwell,  A.  K,  of  her  Majestv's  ship 

•In  hoia  of  Hosts,  Consider  yonr  ways';  Ilagoai,  <.hap.  i.,  5,  7." 
1  ()«r  ymino-  Ilartwell,  how  soon  were  the  hopes  and  ambi- 

,v.ir'"s":;:!!f ';";;" ''' ''""'  "''"^^^  ^'^^^  ^^^«^'  "^  ^he  slope 

•(.Hi        Sured  to  the  memory  of  John  Torriuoton,  who  de 

parted  this    fe  January  1st    \    n  i«u'        u        ^^""'  " '»<>  <ic- 

,  .    rp  "«niu.ii,^  1st,  A.  u.  184(>,  on  board  her  Maiestv'v 

sliip  Terror,  a«?e(l  20  years."  ^^^-ijest^  s 

"On  board  the  sh'ip"  and  \>ther  evidences    made   it  clear 
l.at  here  Sir  John  Franklin  had  spent  the  winter  o    1^4  >  ; 
;n  sa  ety  and  comfort.      Here    werl    .,„nd    aj   I  i    Uhtk^ 
•.Hys  Of  a  foroe  and  of  the  carpenter's  .,h,)p;  a  kev  a  c.sl-    , 

niket;  a  pair  of  oflficer's  cashmere  o,oves  laid  out  to  ,lrv  n"t 
;  'I  su.all  stones  restin,  upon  the  palms;    scraps  of  i    >,v    ^ 
little   ,a.den    sjx^t   containin,   transplanted   anenl    "a,; 


256 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


mosses;  aiul  a  j-iildc-hoard  uailed  to  a  pike  ciglM  feet  lon.r  i,„t 
lyin;;  j)r((stiate.  *^' 

Strangely,  however,  no  iiieiiionnuhiiu  or  docuinciits  coii- 
taiiiiiij.'  the  future  jdaiis  or  ((uirse  of  Sir  John  conhl  ho  f<,nii.l 

On  preceding  pages  has  been  indiiated  the  manner  in  whid, 
th('  yessvls  of  the  various  search  expeditions  spent  the  winl,.|- 
of  1X50-51. 

We  now  purpose  to  narrate  brietiv  tiie 

THRILLING    EXPERIENCES 

of  the  two  American  vessels  durinj.  their  drift  of  eight  months 
in  the  ice— mere  "sailing  tubs,"  driven  here  and  there  and  to 
and  fro,  through  the  "horrid  Arctic  night"  and  longer. 

The  first  of  September  found  the  ships  surrounded  bv  blocks 
of  ice  fourteen  feet  thick  and  these  heai)ed  up  in  great  hum- 
mocks, overtopping  the  decks  and  threatening  destruction  ((. 
the  helpless  crafts.  In  fact,  one  of  these  floating  ic(^  ruins 
struck  the  "Rescue"  with  such  force  that  her  cables  parted,  hut 
she  fortunately  shot  ahead  irto  an  open  space  without  seri„„s 
damage.  On  September  12th,  in  a  storm,  she  again  broke  loose 
from  her  moorings  and  became  separated  from  her  consort. 

The  temperature  was  now  but  five  degrees  above  zero,  ilic 
Americans  having  no  fires,  while  the  British,  abundantlv 'sun- 
plied  with  fuel,  kept  their  stoves  in  full  bUist. 

The  next  day  found  the  two  American  brigs  again  in  com- 
pany, and,  on  the  14th,  while  crunching  through  the  ice  tlic 
motion  of  both  became  irregular,  slow,  and  jerking,  and  fiiiallv 
stopped  altogether.     "I  )octor, 

THE    ICE    HAS    CAUGHT    US- 

we  are  frozen  up!"  shouted  l)e  Haven,  as  he  rushed  below  into 
the  cabin,  where  Dr.  Kane  chanced  to  be. 

The  thermometer  now  touched  the  zero  mark  and  the  beams 
and  walls  of  the  ship  became  lined  with  the  condensation  of 
the  men's  breaths.  A  lard-lamp  was  now  fitted  up  and  ili.- 
temperature  (.f  the  cabin  i-aised  twelve  degives  above  llir 
fi'eezing  point.     This  was  considered  a  great  luxury. 


eot  lonj^,  but 

iiiiKMits  con- 
Id  b<'  foiiml. 
iicrin  Mliicli 
t  the  Willi ('!• 


iglit  mouths 
lu'ic  jiud  t(t 
)}Jiei-. 

^(1  bv  blocks 
}j;rvat  liiiiii- 
<ti'ueti<»ii  to 
l^  ice  ruins 
parted,  hnt 
lout  scrions 
broke  loose 
'  cousort. 
ve  zero,  the 
dantly  .sup- 

ain  in  com- 
the  ice,  tlic 
and  finally 


below  into 

the  beams 
'usatioii  of 
ip  and  llic 

abo\'e  llic 

V. 


1- 

o 
oo 


•a 

a 


o 

S3 

.a 

•*j 

11 

a 

'.) 

o 

rn 

?tn 

■^  o 


o 


I       Ul 


I.  Prof.  A.  E.  Nordenskiold.  2.  Oscar  II.,  King  of  Norway  and 

3.  Restored  Siberian  Mammoth.  Sweden. 

5.  Lieut.  J.  B.  Lockwood.  4.  The  "Vega"— Winter  Quarters. 

6.  Mr.  S.  A.  Andree. 
(See  Chapters  XXXVIll.,  XL.  aud  XLV.) 


OB,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD,  m 

DurinK  the  fourth  wo.k  in  8o„t,.„,ho,.  h,„|,  v,.„s,.|»  boca.ne 

:::;"r;:i;\i::;;;:rr'T;l.r;;;^;:::i;:''"-r^'^^"^ 

-•—--rr:::;;;:;^;;:'';;;-^^ 

•liiitely  irplactMl  on  board.  ""^ 

On  ll.o  l/Jth,  althon-h  tho  sfoven  were  set  in,  tl..v        *• 

-•1  to  warn,  their  roo„.  by  n.eann  of  t,;^  .^  ' 
Kaces,  {  , mes,  and  * 

SEAL   HUNTING 

M..IS     sa„,s  !>,..  Kane,  «„„e  ,„„^t  ,„,„.ti,.e  tl„.  Usouhn-.u^  f„. 
ic«,  "f  .nuW,  i,„ti..nce  and  ..„n,pl,.t..  in bili.y  T  i    ."'f;^' 

;::tre;;n::;r;/;;V",;:tr  ■;i;'i:^  t-T'-  '■""""•  r" 

l>.v  seeing  s.,„,e  ..vor^rown  '  •'  '  '"'"  '■'■"■"'''''■'' 

GREENLAND   CALVES 
fonie  within  shot.     I  nn'sso/l       a#<^^„         xi 

.station  .„.,  ^^r..:x\:^z::::^z'z:i::::  z 

"nntenano.  between  the  ,I„ga„d  the  wild  Afri  alle    '  „  e^ 

-:-banVir;or, !;;!:  i'l , "  v;":;.^/;?'- r^ , 

I""  l"w,  and  entered  the  Inn.,     ,     ^ "*"'"♦  "'""KP.»t>-"i'k 

<•.". ;,:« t":  ban  rz  i;,";::;::"  -•'"-^  -'"  ™ -^ 

"For  a  moment  he  oozed  a  little    bri-rlit   hi.u..i  f 
-"th,  and  ,o„K-ed  toward  n,..  with  a  sta;;ied  ^;;L:^r^:, 


I 


IlMAMi 


2SS 


THr<:  SEARCH    FOR  TUB   NORTH    POLK; 


Then  lie  .lipped;    nil  Instant  jiftci-  he  nnnc    np  still    nearer 
looked  aj^alii,  hied  a;;ain,  and  \v«nt  down.     »     *     #      Vn.l  .,* 
I  lost  Inni. 

''Have  nalni'alists  ever  noticed  the  ex|>icssi(,n  of  the  ani- 
inal's  phi/?  Cniiosit.v,  contentment,  pain,  ivpi-oa<h,  despair 
even  resignation,  I  thonj-ht  I  saw  on  this  seal's  lace." 

Final  arranjAeinents  for  the  winter  were  completed  bv  (lie 
JMh  of  November,  the  "iies(ne"  waw  for  the  time  bein«  aban- 
'l<'"«'<l,  and  the  decks  of  the  "Advance"  liavin-  been  cov.'red 
with  a  honsin<.(,rfelt,  became  the  home  (»f  both  crews,  number- 
ing; thirty-iMie  men.  The  bulkheads  between  the  casll..  and 
forecastle  were  removed  and  both  apartments  thrown  iiit(. 
one.     This  the 

OFFICERS    AND    MEN    OCCUPIED    IN   COMMON. 

The  room  was  now  heated  by  means  of  thecookinj;  .na lie v,  three 
stoves,  three  bear's  fat  and  four  ar^and  lamjis.  On  the  out- 
side, the  temperature  of  the  air  was  40"  below  zero. 

Durino  November  and  December  the  men  sle|)t  with  knap- 
sacks upon  their  backs  and  with  sledj.vs  laden  with  provisions 
npon  the  ice  lest  at  any  moment  the  vess(d  should  be  crushed, 
as  frequently  their  peril  was  innninent. 

The  holidays  were,  nevertheless,  spent  in  merry-makiu};, 
and  elaborate  dinners  served. 

Meanwhile,  Lieutenant  De  Haven  became  ill,  and  Mr.  (Jrii- 
iin  succ(>eded  as  sole  commander.     On  January  12th 

A    SUDDEN    SHOCK 

brings  all  hands  on  deck.  The  ice-tiehl  has  parted,  and  in  the 
fissure  thus  formed  comes  a  marble-like  mass  of  Ice  beariii«i 
directly  toward  the  stern  <.f  the  vessel.  It  stops— then  ad"^ 
vances.  Will  it  strike?  ( J od  forbid.  Hut  if  so,  then  no  eartli- 
l.y  power  can  save  the  defenseless  ship  from  immediate  destiiu - 
tion.  On  it  comes  until  scarcely  a  yard  of  si)ace  remains  be- 
fore it  must  collide  with  the  frail  craft.  lint— it  stops,  and, 
be<-ominn  impacted,  clings  to  the  stern  for  months. 


neani, 


m 


OR,    LIFE    IN    TFIE    ORRaT    VVF.ITK    WORLD. 

At  length,  (Ui  .Jannaiv  l'!)lli,  Hi,,  sun    .,n.  ..   .       i 

BALL    OP    KIRE3 

::^t:;:i::;i::;::;;;\;;:::"'-;;;;--;«; ;-: :- 

:;;;,::■•' - •  -  -M;:r:^;;nt- 

"I  looked  at  liiin  tliankfullv"savM  M..  ic.      u    ■  . 

-- r;;:,:;;:;:::.,.:';i;:;:- ' ■•^- ■ -. 

GRAND    BREAKUP    OP    ICE 

=:',,..;:;;iz;;;';;;;::;^;?::::i;-:ii; ---...a,..,.. 

""•■-■was  ::;'e    a ,  !'  "'™,:,A""  '•*■;""  ""■ »"'"  ■'^f"- 

"■n»  likewise  liberau!,!  '"^ '"""'  '"*"•  *'»■  "A<lvau,e" 

i"  '-.'a.e..  :;::■;■;  :;;;it;t;- .::;;■ ■'■■"■«■  "■•■ — 


260 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


i 


Reaching  the  Greenland  port  on  June  16th,  Dr.  Kane  and 
five  men  went  ashore,  where  they  were  greeted  by  the  barkinj. 
of  dogs,  tlie  yelling  of  children,  and  the  gazing  of  Eskinlos^ 
After  remaining  here  five  days,  De  Haven  set  sail  for  Melville 
Bay,  stopping  at  all  the  principal  Danish  ports. 

Off  Proven  the  voyagers  were  met  by  many  of  the  natives, 
who  dragged  their  kyaks  over  seven  miles  of  ice  to  the  narrow 
charnel  of  water  in  which  the  vessels  lay. 

These  kyakers  greatly  amused  the  crews  by  turning  com- 
plete side  somersaults  in  the  water,  boat,  occupant  and  all  his 
belongings  t<tgether.  This  feat  is  performed  by  simply  ele- 
vating the  hands  above  the  head,  dipping  suddenly  to  one  side, 
liaL^ing  with  head  toward  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  the  water- 
tight skin  boat  acting  as  a  buoy,  and  then  reappearing  on  the 
other  side  and  returning  to  an  upright  position. 

Here,  too,  the  Aniericans  celebrated  the  Fourth  of  July— 
— siiiiply,  yet  patriotically.  Instead  of  firing  gunpowder, 
huge  boulders  were  rolled  down  the  steep  rock  slopes  or 
dropped  from  beetling  cliffs,  while,  sailor-fashion,  the  main 
brace  was  "spliced"  with  eider-duck  egg-nog,  the  festivities 
winding  up  with  a  ball,  in  which  the  Eskimo  belles  took  con- 
spicuous parts. 

Sailing  thence  to  Melville  Bay  the  ice  was  found  unusually 
late  for  August,  and  it  was  accordingly  decided  to  return  at 
once  to  New  York,  where  both  anchors  were  dropped  before 
the  close  of  the  first  week  in  October 


EBT-IiOW-TIK  AND  KEN-IOOK. 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


261 


CHAPTEll   XXVI. 

RAES   SEARCH   AND   DISCOVERIES. 

0'  1^53t,?n  T'- V?  '''"  «f  ^'^tions  of  1848-9,  spent  the  winter 
0  I803.4  on  the  isthmus  (Rae's)  which  divides  the  waters  <?f 
Kepulse  Bay  from  those  of  Prince  Kegent's  Inlet 

m  the  ensuing  spring,  when  on  the  sledge  journey  to  coni- 

WHITE    MEN    HAD    DIED    OF    STARVATION 

a  long  distance  to  the  west  of  where  he  then  was,  and  beyond  a 

lZ^Z■       '""•;""'*  "'"  *""   ">"•'"«'  """•   winters  lee 
1850),  while  some  Esquimaux  families  were  killing  seals  near 

^n^wnr''  ';"'  T^"  """'"'  ■="■'"•"  '»  Arrowsmith's  char 
Iv.ng  Uilham's  Land,  about  forty  white  men  were  seen  trave 

.UK  m  company  southward  over  the  ice,  and  draggLg  a  bm 

and  sledges  with  them.    They  wer,.  passing  along  the  we 

»hore  of  the  above  name,l  island.    None  of%he  abo  e  partv 

»  ood     but  by  signs  the  natives  were  led  to  believe  that  the 
ships  had  been  crushed  by  ice,  and  that  they  were  now  go  n" 
where  they  expected  to  find  deer  to  shoot.    .=-rom  thelZi? 
auce  of  the  men,  all  of  whom,  with  the  exception  of  an  office  • 
were  hauling  on  ,he  drag-ropes  of  the  sledge!  and  looked^      ' 
hey  were  then  supposed  to  be  getting  short  of  provisions-  am 
hey  purchased  a  seal,  or  piece  of  seal,  from  the  nativ.^     The 
offlcer.was  described  as  being  a  tall,  stout,  middle-aged  man 
When  their  day's  Journey  terminated  ti.„ t---'  --"  t 


262 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


"At  a  later  date,  the  same  season,  but  previous  to  the  dis- 
ruption of  the  ice,  the 

CORPSES  OF  SOME  THIRTY  PERSONS, 

and  some  graves,  were  discovered  on  the  continent,  and  tivc 
dead  bodies  on  an  island  near  it,  about  a  day's  journey  to  the 
northwest  of  the  mouth  of  a  large  stream,  which  can  be  uo 
other  than  Back's  Great  Fish  Eiver,  as  its  description  and  that 
of  the  low  shore  in  the  neighborhood  of  Point  Ogle  and  Mon- 
treal Island  agree  exactly  with  that  of  Sir  George  Back.  Souk^ 
of  the  bodies  were  in  a  tent  or  tents;  others  were  under  the 
boat,  which  had  been  turned  over  to  form  a  shelter,  and  some 
lay  scattered  about  in  different  directions.  Of  those  seen  on 
the  island,  one  was  supposed  to  have  been  an  officer,  as  lie 
had  a  telescope  strapper!  over  his  shoulders,  and  a  double-bar- 
relled gun  lay  beneath  him. 

"From  the  mutilated  state  of  many  of  the  bodie>s  and  the 
contents  of  the  kettles,  it  is  evident  that  our  wretched  country- 
men had  been  driven  to  the 

DREAD  ALTERNATIVE  OF  CANNIBALISM 

as  a  means  of  sustaining  life.  There  must  have  been  amoiit; 
this  party  a  number  of  telescopes,  guns,  watches,  compasses, 
etc.,  all  of  which  seem  to  have  been  broken  up,  as  Isaw  pieces 
of  these  articles  with  the  natives,  and  I  purchased  as  numy  as 
possible,  together  with  some  silver  spoons  and  ^orks,  an  Order 
of  Merit  in  the  form  of  a  star,  and  a  small  silver  plate,  engraved 
'Sir  John  Franklin,  K.  (\  B.'  " 

It  was  evident  that  the  entire  Franklin  imrty,  numberinj;' 
135  souls — the  wvy  flower  of  the  British  navy — had  perished 
in  a  most  miserable  mann<»r. 

For  his  painful  discovery.  Dr.  Uae  received  the  Government 
reward  of  £50,000, 


OB,   LIFE   IN   THE    GBEAT    WHITE    WORU), 


isa 


CHAPTEU   XXVII. 


INGLEFIELD'S    VOYAGE. 

Amoug  tl,<.  »ui-|,ri«m|;ly  ,,„i,k  „,„,  «„,,,,.«,f„| 
fl.e  tnn<.«  was  tl,.,t  of  Captain  E.  A.  Ingl.tt,.!,,,  iu  tho  s.nul 

>.-s«.I  was  i,ro,„.|le,l  by  an  liish-i,,-..,™,-,.  engine  „f  Ki  u.J- 
I.»«'er  and  was  ,..,,vi„l„ne.I  for  five  years  for'^twelv..  n,..,.   b"t 
.arned  «,■,•,.«•  of  seventeen.    Besides,  sbe  was  also  abnu,|. 
.V  e.in,i,i,e.l  w.th  indivi,lnal  donations  consisting  of  te„,s 

;::;;;;';'-;:;,::' """"''  "''""'■"'"^'  "^■"^'-'  -'^  —''-» ""■'■.' 

Among  the  offlcere  was  Dr.  Sutherland,  who,  being  well- 

::;::;:;:si:r  "^•''^' """''' "  --^  ™""""^'  --  -><''  '-' 

ni<  u  aimed  at  !•  i»liernae.s,  off  th,.  west  coast  of  S„„th  (ireen- 
l-.'l,  ou  the  Ttl,  of  Angust,  wl,ere  the.v  wer.-  hos,i,ab      ,' 
;ynedb.v  the  Danish  Governor   an.l    tl,e    Esl<in.    ,  ,b tcN 
I  .■■■e  Inglefleld  observed  that  the  nativ.-s   made   no    's,      ^ 
»i<'.Iges,  bnt  of  kyaks  and  oon,iak»  insfad.      Doubtles     1  ow 

sl<  Is  1  he  fire-wood  of  the  natives  .■onsisted  of  willows  ■,  le.ir 
nul,  n,  dian,et..r,  and  gather,.!  in  the  women^  ,  L  xt 
Hiief  export  was  of  codfish.     Aseeneintbe 

ESKIMO    VILLAGE    CHURCH 

i«^best  described  in  the  language  of  Captain  Inglefield  him- 

''Softly    but  iMpidly,  the  litth.  meeting-house  filled,  and 
I.™  the  ,loor  closed,  and  an  E«,,„i,nn„s  with  the  n.os    for- 
bidding exterior  of  any  I  had  seen,  slowly  rose,  and  with  much 


264 


THE  SEARCH   FOR  THE   NORTH   POLEj 


soleniuitj  gave  out  a  liymu,  aud  iii  a  few  inoiiieuts  the  me- 
lodious liarmouy  of  mauy  well-tuued  voices  broke  fortli.  I 
was  delighted  with  the  strain,  for  though  uot  a  word  was  in- 
telligible to  me,  I  (;ould  iieverth<'less  feel  that  each  persou  was 
lifting  his  heart  to  his  Maker,  aud  I  unconsciously  joined  in  the 
harmony  with  other  words,  which,  having  been  learned  in 
childhood,  now  rushed  into  my  mind,  aud  bade  uu'  mingle  them 
with  the  hallelujahs  of  these  poor  semi-savages.  *  *  *  A 
sermon  followed,  and  there  burst  forth  from  the  preacher's 
lips  a  flow  of  elocution  that  I  have  seldom  heard  equaled ;  with- 
out gesticulation  he  warmed  to  his  subject  till  the  large  droi»s 
of  perspiration  fell  on  the  sacred  volume,  and  his  tone  and  em- 
phasis proved  that  he  was  gifted  with  eloquence  of  no  ordinary 
nature." 

From  Fiskernaes,  Inglefield  proceeded  to  Uperuavik,  where 
dogs  for  tlie  sledges  were  purchased,  aud  thence  made  his  way 
across  Melville  Bay  into  ^Yostenholm  Sound,  visiting  the  bay 
in  which  the  "North  Star"  had  passed  the  previous  winter,  dis- 
covered and  named  several  islands  within  the  bay,  and  then 
proceeded  northward,  discovering  NortLamberland  and  Her- 
bert islands  and  Murchison  Sound.  From  this  point  the  "Isa- 
bel" steamed  northward  into  Smith  Sound,  attaining  latitude 
78°  30',  a  reckoning  afterwards  determined  by  Dr.  Kane  as 
being  too  high,  inasmuch  as  Captain  Inglefield  had  made  the 
north  coast  of  the  sound  trend  too  much  to  the  north. 

Stopped  b}^  the  ice,  the  "Isabel"  now  proceeded  southward 
along  the  west  coast  of  Raflfin's  Bay,  thence  up  Lancaster 
Sound  to  Beechey  Island,  where  the  "North  Star,"  Sir  Edward 
Belcher's  depot-vessel,  was  at  anchor.  After  leaving  some  of 
the  stores,  the  officers  of  the  "North  Star"  declining  to  take 
more  in  the  absence  of  Sir  Edward  up  Wellington  (Miannel,  and 
exchanging  mail-pouches,  Captain  Inglefield  returned  to  Eii;^- 
laud,  after  an  absence  of  four  months.  His  success  had  been 
signal,  his  contributions  to  geograjdncal  science  important, 
and  he  received  the  approbation  of  all  competent  authorities. 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


265 


CHAPTER  XX VIII. 

KANE'S  EXPEDITION. 

Once  more  we  are  brought  to  notice  the  idolized  and  chival- 
rous Dr.  Kane,  in  connection  witli  the  second  Grinnell  Expedi- 
tion organized  for  the  purpose  of  searching  for  Sir  John  Frank- 
m    from  the  upper  waters  of  Baffin's  Bay  to  the  shores  of  the 

Lade  ''''       ^"'^''''*  ''''°*'^'  ''''^"^'^'  "^^^  ^'^'«  ^^^^^^'t^^l  ^'>  1>^' 

To  Mr.  GrinnelPs  generosity  in  again  placing  the  "Advance" 

at  the  disposal  of  the  Naval  Department  for  the  purpose  stated, 

was  also  added  the  liberality  of  Mr.  George  Peabody,  the  well- 

orTntHh  r'"'"^''*'  '"^  "'  ''''''''  ^^^^"*'«^  institutions 
toi  contributions  in  money  and  equipment 

The  crew  consisted  of  ten  ofucers  and  men  detailed  from 
tlio  navy,  besides  seven  chosen  for  special  reasons.     All  ho  ™ 
ever  were  volunteers.     Strict  sub<,rdination,  no  profanit'v,  and 
abstinence  from  the  use  of  intoxicants  except  when  dispense 
b.v  order  of  the  commanding  officer,  were  the  three  grand  n.Te 
enjoined  upon  all.  r,'-i"o  niies 

The  "Advance"  sailed  from  New  York  IMnv'^n  isr.o  „  , 
-rive,,  „t  Fiskernne.,  South  Greenland  .1,,  ^^t,'    uLT 

vane  .e™r«l  the  service,  of  Ilan.  Ohristian/a  Dani^l.E^ki  .o 
l.Ml  of  nineteen,  as  interpreter  an.l   assistant.    ProceeUin" 

orthwar, ,  stops  were  .nacle  at  al-  the  prineipai  ports  "trt 

l^.issaRe  «as  taken  m  order  to  avoid  tlie  ice  of  Melville  Bav 

I  e  Degan  to  appear  upon  the  surface  of  the  water  'ibont  tho 
y  ami  also  to  faH  from  the  berg.     They  w;:^ns:^  d^ 
«ei--the  great  ice-mo:.ntain  was  disintegrating!    Not  n  mo 
"lent  was  to  be  lost-the  ship  was  cast  off      [v\t^  ! 

roar  IiIta  ihc  «^      u      \.      ^*  ^^^^  ^^^^  «"•     V\ith  a  crash  and 
»"<ii   iiKe  the  reverhprations  nf  ih^mA^^r  4^1  . 

.ap.e,  lasMn,  the  o«.n  into  rVoratriuirl'rnd  " 


266 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


Passihjjf  the  Criiiisou  (Miffs, aud  the  rock-spired  Haklujt,  ou 
August  5th  and  6th  respectively,  the  "Advance"  struggled  on 
to  Littleton  Island,  Smith  Strait,  where  were  deposited  the 
life-boat,  pennnicau,  blankets,  and  oil-cloths,  to  be  used  in  case 
of  retreat  at  some  future  period.  Here  were  discovered  tiic 
ruins  of  Eskimo  huts,  and  burial  cairns  containing  frozen 
corpses  which,  although  doubtless  deceased  for  a  century,  were 
still  not  decomposed. 

About  this  time — August  19th— 

A    TERRIFIC    GALE 

arose.  First,  a  six-inch  hawser,  then  the  whale-line,  and 
finally  the  ten-inch  manilla-cable  parted,  exposing  the  little 
vessel  to  the  full  fury  of  the  storm. 

"We  allowed  him  to  scud,"  says  Dr.  Kane,  "under  a  reefed 
fore-top  sail;  all  hands  waiting  the  enemy,  as  we  closed  in 
silence.  ' 

"At  7  in  the  morning  we  were  close  onto  the  piling  masses. 
We  dropped  the  heaviest  anchor  with  the  desperate  hope  of 
winding  the  brig;  but  there  was  no  withstanding  the  ice 
torrent  which  followed  us.  W>  had  only  time  to  fasten  a  spar 
as  a  buoy  to  the  chain  and  let  her  slip.  Srt  went  our  best 
bower. 

"Down  we  went  upon  the  gale  again,  helplessly  scraping 
along  a  lee  of  ice  seldom  less  than  thirty  feet  thick;  one  floe 
measured  by  a  line  as  we  tried  to  fasten  to  it,  more  than  forty. 
I  had  seen  such  ice  only  once  before,  and  never  in  such  rapid 
motion.  One  upturned  mass  rose  above  our  gunw^ale,  smash- 
ing in  our  bulwarks,  and  depositing  half  a  ton  in  a  lump  upon 
our  decks.  Our  little  brig  bore  herself  through  all  this  wild 
adventure  as  if  she  had  a  charmed  life.     But 

A    NEW   ENEMY 

came  in  sight.  Directly  in  our  way,  just  beyond  the  line  of 
floe-ice  against  which  we  were  alternately  sliding  and  thump- 
ing, was  a  group  of  huge  bergs.  We  had  no  power  to  av«.i(i 
them;   the  only  question  was  whether  we  were  to  be  dashed 


OR,  LIFE  :n  the  great  w«,te  world  .  ,„ 

«..cl  separated  from  it  by  an  interval  of  H^e  "a  j.  oil  '"■' 
.-e,  and  tUe  gale  drove  nB  toward  tbe  pala^'an^  nt,?it" 
and  we  were  readv  t«  ovi,u       i         n     *^'*''*^fo*^  '^na  into  it; 

.•au»e,pr«babi;f"omaneddv'o  th'"'  "'","'  '"""^  "— P'"---! 
wa'l«,  we  lost  our  blZa/'  Aln  .  st"',?  t,?"""'  ""  '""^  "'<' 
saw  that  the  bergs  were  noUt  res     tl.'t  I    h"""  """"*"  "•" 

theirown  tbeyvverebearirgtr;,  r;  r  b^r":"™";';::' 
we  w-ere  faled  to  be  crushed  between  the  two  '  "* 

Just  then  a  broad  sconee-pieoe,  or  low,  water-washed  here 
.•a,«e  driving  up  from  the  southward.  The  thought  flasliwl' 
npon  me  of  one  of  our  escapes  in  Melville  Bay  and  as  le 
«."uce  moved  rapidly  alongside  of  us,  McGary  mau.^ed  to 
,  ant  an  anchor  on  its  slope,  and  hold  onto  it  b^a  Zfe  Le 
■t  was  an  anxious  moment.    Our  noble  tow-horfe,  whiter  than 

THE   PALE   HORSE 

ll.at  seeme,!  to  be  pursuing  us,  hauled  us  bravely  on,  the  spray 
nshingover  h,s  windward  flanks,  and  his  forehead  earinr^ 
l.e  lesser  ice  as  if  in  scorn.    The  bergs  encroached  u^i;  Z 
»ve  advanced;  our  channel  narrowed  to  a  width  of  p^haps 
f-rty  feet,  we  bra..ed  the  yards  to  clear  the  impending  i'ce  wafl 
«  e  passed  clear,  but  it  was  a  close  shave-so  close 
at  our  port  water  boat  woul.l  have  been  ..rushed  had  we  nol 
taken  U  from  the  davits-and  found  ourselves  under  the  lee 
■>  a  berg  m  a  comparatively  open  lead.     Never  did  heart-tried 
men  acknowledge  .with  more  gratitude  their  merciful  deliv 
ance  from  a  wretched  death." 

In  the  course  of  this  brave  struggle  several  of  the  men  were 
eparated  from  the  brig  on  a  floe  cake  and  were  not  resc,",! 
1  after  the  storm  had  abated.    Mr.  Amos  B,msall  saved  h  m 
elf  from  being  horribly  crushed  by  making  a  perilous  leap  o 
a  floating  ice  pan.  ' 

The  gale  subsided  at  length  on  the  22d,  and  the  "Advance" 
naa  hnally  made  secure  in  I!ens.selaer  Harbor,  Iatitu<le  78°  41' 


268 


THE  SEARCH   FOR  THE   NORTH    POLE; 


OR.   LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  269 

up  to  that  time  the  farthest  north  ever  made  on  the  American 
Hide  and  exceeded  onlj  by  Parry  on  the  European  side  of  the 
world. 

From  this  point,  leaving  the  "Advance"  in  charge  of  Mr. 
Ohlsen,  Dr.  Kane,  with  seven  men,  began  a  boat  and  sledge 
j<.urney  northward  on  the  29th  of  August.  They  had  not  pro. 
mMled  far  before  the  boat  was  deposited  in  a  gorge  and  the 
sledge  alone  used  At  the  end  of  five  days  they  found  them- 
.(.Ives  but  forty  miles  from  the  ship,  whereupon  the  sledge  was 
also  left  behind  and  the  litttle  party  hastened  forward  on  foot. 
Ill  one  day  covering  twenty-four  miles. 

During  the  journey  careful  observations  on  the  geolocv 
botany,  and  topography  of  the  country  were  assiduously  at-' 
tended  to.  On  one  occasion  a  large  river  formed  from  the 
melting  of  the  surface  snows  was  traced  for  forty  miles  toward 
Its  source  in  the  eternal  ice  of  the  interior,  where,  says  the 
observant  doctor,  "fostered  by  the  reverberations  of  solar  heat 
from  the  rocks,  we  met  a 

FLOWER-GROWTH, 

which  though  drearily  Arctic  in  its  type,  was  rich  in  variety 
and  coloring.  Amid  festuca  and  other  tufted  grasses  twinkled 
the  purple  lychnis  and  the  white  star  of  the  chickweed,  and 
not  without  Its  pleasing  associations,  I  recognized  a  single 
hesperis,  the  Arctic  representative  of  the  wall-flowers  of  home  " 

Finally,  a  rock  headland,  having  an  elevation  of  eleven 
hundred  feet,  was  reached  and  made  the  termination  of  the 
journey.  From  it  a  vast  extent  of  ice  could  be  seen  stretching 
beyond  the  80°  of  north  latitude.  - 

Returning  to  the  brig,  winter-quarters  were  speedily  pre- 
pared  urn]  thorough  and  systematic  scientific  observations 
begun. 

Game  being  scarce,  much  of  the  salt  meat  was  freshened  bv 
suspending  it  through  the  ice  covering  a  fresh  water  lake  dis- 
covered  on  a  neighboring  island. 

On  September  20th  a  depot  party  was  sent  out  for  the  pur- 
pose of  establishing  three  caches  of  provisions  to  be  used  by 


/ 


m 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THB  NORTH  POLBJi 


the  Sledge  party  the  following  spring.  In  spite  of  great  care 
to  render  the  caches  impregnable,  the  powerful  polar  bears  de 
stroyed  the  first  depot  shortly  after  it  was  made.  The  party 
returned  to  the  ship  after  an  absence  of  four  weeks.  Their 
lives  had  been  greatly  imperiled  on  one  occasion  by  the  sudden 
breaking  up  of  the  ice  upon  whch  they  were  sleeping  ThiK 
was  caused  by  the 

CALVING   OP   THE   GLACIERS 

in  the  vicinity,  which,  giving  birth  to  their  giant  progenies 
forced  them  to  try  their  strength  as  messengers  of  destruction' 
in  the  world  of  ice  lying  before  them. 

Meanwhile,  the  party  remaining  at  the  ship  narrowly 
averted  a  calamity  which  must  have  proved  the  destruction 
of  the  entire  party.     An  attempt  was  made  to 

SMOKE  OUT  THE  RATS 

Which  infested  the  hold  of  the  ship.  A  compound  of  leather, 
brimstone,  and  arsenic  having  been  ignited  and  failing  to 
effect  the  desired  result,  a  quantity  of  carbolic  acid  gas  was 
then  substituted.  Unfortunately,  the  cook  carelessly  ven- 
tured below  and  was  dragged  out  more  dead  than  alive.  Fear- 
ing  that  something  had  caught  fire  below,  Dr.  Kane  essaved 
to  investigate  the  matter  and  was  likewise  rescued  in  nearly 
a  lifeless  condition.  The  fire,  however,  was  located,  and  ex- 
tinguished wit)i  great  difficulty. 

The  cold,  cold  winter  was  now  upon  them.  Says  Dr.  Kane- 
The  great  difficulty  is  to  keep  up  a  cheery  tone  among  thJ 
men.  Poor  Hans  has  been  sorely  homesick.  Three  davs  ago 
he  bundled  up  his  clothes  and  took  his  rifle  to  bid  us  alf  good- 
bye. It  turns  out  that  besides  his  mother  there  is  another 
one  of  the  softer  sex  at  Fiskernaes  that  the  boy's  heart  is 
dreaming  of.  He  looked  as  wretched  as  any  lover  of  a  milder 
clime.  I  hope  I  have  treated  his  nostalgia  successfully,  by 
giving  him  first  a  dose  of  salts  and,  secondlv,  promotion  Ii; 
now  has  all  the  dignity  of  henchman.  He  harnesses  my  do^s 
builds  my  traps,  and  walks  with  me  on  my  ice-tramps;  and 


great  care 
P  bears  tie- 
The  party 
lis.  Their 
he  suddt-ii 
^ng.    This 


3rogenies, 
?8truetiou 

narrowly 
structiou 


f  leather, 
ailing  to 
gas  was 
Jsly  ven- 
tre. Fear- 
essayed 
n  nearly 
and  ex- 

r.  Kane: 
long  tlK 
lays  ago 
ill  good- 
another 
heart  is 
I  milder 
iilly,  by 
i)n.  He 
ly  dogs, 
•s;  and, 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    OR.pa'T    wutmr^ 

"till-    UKh.AT    WHITE    WORLD,  271 

except  hunting,  is  exruso<l  from  all  other  d.,fv      ir    • 
attached  to  me,  and  as  hapny  as  a  V;  ^  .   ""^  "  '^^">^ 

Thus  the  winter  wore  .V  '"  ^'"^"^^^  ^''  ^'''' 

was  intensely  col^.^  U  c'mpithaT     "*  '"""^  ^^^"'""^^ 
<.f  Hassafras,  at  nunu   41)',  an    ,dl      w^^^^^  '''  """"«  ••^°'  -' 

The  temperature  during  M  ul    onerl      7T     '  •  "'""^^  ''°- 

All  but  six  of  the  d^gs  died^f  '     ''"'  "'  "'"""  ''^' 

PIB-LUCK-TOO,    OR    HYDROPHOBIA 

li\n:L*;,1,t;e  I't",""""''  ""»'"^--'  ''--v  •"«•  <"  the 
imaffecte.1  by  any  ,„ala,ly  ^        ^     "'"'  *'""  "'"P  '"""-' 

..f  Heven   H™   t  .      r"  ^•"»<'«"»t  "««.    Afto.-  au  absence 

"Their  story  was  a  fearful  one     Thov  I.n.i  \^n  ^i    • 
panions  in  the  ice   riskincr  thlT         7  ^  ^^'''''  ^''"^- 

IRISH   TOM 

had  stayed  by  to  feed  and  care  for  the  rest   but  th.  rho 
were  sorolv  no-nincf  +i. t^  '  ^"''  *he  chances 

were  ..„Ui„g  ,ub  fa«g„o  and  bnuge;  al  couM  iaii?.;'';': 


272 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


lallicd  onoiiftli  to  tell  the  direction  in  wjiich  tlicy  had  come." 
Irniiiediatel.v,  Dr.  Kjnie  and  a  pai't.v  of  eij^lit  men  started  for 
the  relief  of  the 

PERISIHNO    MEN. 

Poor  OhlHen  was  the  only  one  of  tlio.se  wl^o  had  fonnd  tlieir  way 
back  to  t  lie  shi|>  who  was  able  to  ^iv  e  any  intelligible  informa- 
tion as  to  th«'  position  of  the  imperiled  men.  lie  was  accord- 
ingly wrapjM'd  heavily  in  robes,  placed  on  a  sled<«(.,  and  re- 
turned with  the  rescninfi:  party.  Fortunately,  after  a  toilsome 
journey  of  twenty-four  hours  over  a  distan.-e  ..f  pndmbly  fori  ^ 
miles,  Dr.  Kimo  sij>hted  the  tent  contaiuin^^  the  sulTering  nieu. 
Of  this  circumstance  the  j»dod  doctor  says: 

"We  at  last  came  in  sij-ht  of  a  small  American  tlaj?  Mutter- 
injjfrom  a  hummock,  and  hnver  down  a  little  Masonic  banner 
hanjiino  from  a  tent-pole  hardly  above  the  drift.  It  was  the 
camp  of  our  disabled  romrades.  We  reached  it  after  an  un- 
broken march  of  twenty-one  hours."  With  the  confidence  of 
frat<'rnity  "they  had  expected  him;  they  were  sure  he  would 
c«)me!" 

Now  bcjufan  the  return  jcnirney,  one  of  intense  sufferiuf^and 
which  resulted  in  nearly  all  the  participants  beiuj»-  more  or  less 
frozen,  from  the  effects  of  which  two  of  the  men,  Tiaker  and 
Schubert,  afterwards  died.  They  were  buried  o\\  shore  neai- 
the  winter-<iuarters.  So  ^roat  was  the  strain  on  Dr.  Kaiu' 
du;'ing  this  journey  that  he  fainted  twice. 

About  this  time  a  party  of  Eskimos  visited  the  ship  and 
from  them  Dr.  Kane  purchased  four  dogs,  which,  being  har- 
nessed with  three  of  the  orioiual  pack,  <  oi.stituted  a  team 
which  he  himself  trained  ami  drove. 

On  April  27th  a  journey  to  the  great 

HUMBOLDT    GLACIER 

was  begun.  Arriving  there,  a  vast  wall  of  ice  three  hundred 
fe<t  'ii;;h  and  sixty  miles  long  was  found.  Extending  an  un- 
ks'o^'  !  d'  tance  into  the  great  interior  ice-cap  of  North  Oreeii- 
luij  j,  this  wonderful  frozen  river  with  its  innumerable  chasms 


u\  conip." 
tai'tod  for 


IIhmi'  way 
infoniia- 

H  accord- 

',  and  re- 
tcdlsonic 

bly  foiiy 

jj;  lluttcr- 
c  banner 
wan  the 
'1'  an  nn- 
idcncc  of 
10  won  Id 

Tinjvand 
ro  or  less 
iker  and 
ore  ncai' 
>r.  Kane 

diip  and 

'inj?  har- 

a  team 


hundred 

f^  an  un- 
li  Cireen- 
!  chasms 


Cumberland  Sound  Eskimo  Woman 

Etah  Eskimos. 

My    Pets  :    Ock-ah-mah-ding-wah 

and  Kla-yu. 


South  Greenland  Females. 
South  Greenland  Dogs. 
Polar  Bear  on  Board. 


r" 


'-■■■*;■  it  ■..'■  ■  <^«HllMlMMiiiiilMitoaiki^Jid^^^^^^ 

lUmKSammil^^  % 

;i--'\-^-u;"    :v-^ 

-. — ■  fe,....A--.-> — -  ■ ^ — 

Face  of  a  Greenland  Glacier. 

tSec  i)iigcs  408-9.) 


Face  of  Glacier,  showing  Overthrust  and  Stratification. 

tSci'  paK<'H  triS-'.'.) 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD  273 

ument.  '^"^ ticu  aiia  ii.ihuhI  lennyson's  Mon- 

w.  J''a.srt':  u::;si'  ^t^  '""«' """ ""  *"-  '"p  -<'  ■.<- 

imnions.  ^  '"  "  "^'"S  ">"<liti«..  by  five  of  l,is  ,.,„„. 

-^«r=-:™;rr^;n:;:™ -" '--^ 

inHueuce  of  his  ow.,  strong  .ni^,,  '  ""^■^'''  ""''  «»" 

awful  suffenni;  ant  st«r;'.,ti.nf'  *'"^  ^*'*'"*'  ''^  ^lio 

KENNEDY   CHANNEL. 

biidly  ««e,l  „p  by  tbis  ti-in     Tl  Iv  ,     >      '  "'"'  '"""-"ere 

-.'■  -vont,  L,L':;r .  ;„.  t":::',i';.;":,:r' '™ """""" 

""«»  beoa,„e  so  „„„,,v  tbat        v   ,,''«'  IZ'T"    .^"'-' 

^.-.n,  Mr.  McGarrv  ZluJZ  '  '•''"'"'  "'  *"••  «""■ 

Finally,  on  tiie  22<I,  in  latitnrlp  sn°  <in'  „ 
Qrinnell  flair  at  tim  i,Ji.     .      .  '"*^  **•*    30,  was  planted  flie 
nag,  at  the  highest  point  north  at  that  time  ever  at- 


274 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


tained  in  Greenland  waters.    From  an  eminence  could  be 
seen  farther  northward  a  strelch  of  open  water— 

THE    SUPPOSED    POLAR    SEA. 

Says  Kane:  "It  must  have  been  an  imposing  sight,  as  he 
stood  at  this  terminati(,n  of  his  journey,  looking  out  upon 
the  great  waste  of  waters.     Not  a  speck  of  ice,  to  use  his  own 
words,  could  be  seen.     There,  from  a  height  of  400  feet  com- 
manding a  horizon  of  almost  forty  miles,  his  ears  were'glid 
dened  with  the  novel  music  of  dashing  waters,  and  a  smf 
breaking  in  among  the  rocks  at  his  feet  stayed  his  further 
progress.     The  high  ridges  to  the  northeast  dwindled  away 
to  the  low  blue  knobs,  which  blended  finally  with  the  air 
Morton  called  the  cape  which  balHed  his  labors  after  his  com- 
mander, but  I  have  given  it  the  more  enduring  name  of  (^ape 
Constitution.     I  do  not  believe  there  was  a  man  among  us 
who  did  not  long  for  the  means  of  embarking  upon  these  bright 
and  lovely  waters." 

The  ship  was  still  beset  in  the  ice,  and  being  merely  a  sail- 
ing vessel,  escape  was  utterly  impossible.  Half  the  men  were 
on  the  sick  list  and  accordingly  Dr.  Kane  resolved  to  com- 
municate  with  the  squadron  of  Sir  Edward  Belcher,  then  sup- 
posed  to  be  at  Beechey  Island. 

Manning  a  small  sailing  craft  but  twentv-three  feet  lon^^ 
and  six  and  a  half  feet  wide  in  the  beam,  the  resolute  man 
and  tive  companions  proceeded  to  Littleton  Island,  where  they 
were  fortunate  enough  to  secure  a  quantity  of  eider  ducks 
Putting  again  to  sea  in  the  endeavor  to  gain'the  west  shore  of 
Baffin's  Bay,  they  Avere  overtaken  by  a  gale,  to  the  fury  of 
which  they  were  exposed  for  twenty-two  hours,  and  would  all 
have  perished  but  for  the  consummate  skill  of  Mr.  McGarry 
second  officer  of  the  expedition.     On  July  23d  Ilakluyt  Is'lan'd 
was  reached,  from  which  point   they   directed    their    course 
toward  the  Cary  Islands.     When  within  ten  miles  of  Tape 
Parry,  lunvever,  their  farther  progress  was  effectuallv  stopped 
by  a  great  barrier  of  ice,  which,  loosened  by  the  action  of  wind, 
tide,  and  the  sun's  heat  from  the  Whale  Sound  region  of  Groon- 


OR,   LIFE    IN    THE   GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  ^j 

00  the  we«t  coast  [fumJs  'i^;'™""'^'""  "••""  J""-'  S-nd 

tills  particular  place    the  >,niiH  J  '^  ''"'^  ''^«t  'n 

"lowly  and  Dr.  KanrdcXlt^r  T'"  ""^  "■••"'<'■'  but 

«a»  and  await  mor"e%t»t      "c^ Snl  nThfe?""^''^ 
next  summer  season.    Fearing  the  worst  on  t h!  ^      .  "'  *"* 
.ock  facing  west  he  had  printl,  ^^^Z^^:^  "  """^ 

"THE   ADVANCE,   1853-54." 

bites  and  exposure  """'  *"«  """"'^  "'  f"™!- 

■>o,  I».wever/'dvsed  to  ne         ''"■  f*  '■""•"■''"'^"  "  <^"»"-- 

"'en,that,shmndaT!'  e"rrr„""*'  """  ■"•'«'  ""»  '"'"""O 

««..l.l  ne;erthel  ss  re  ,  e  ?^  '"'«""     '"f"""'^^^  '"'''  '"'"y 

return  to  the  ship.  b.other's  weleome"  upon  their 

<.">M,:eif,;Ct„"e:;tZr,%°:-  •"•^-«  -'"  «'i«"t  others 
""0  of  the  mel  O^™  ;,t.:ttn';r^^' ''"'«'- ''«^- ^ 

^nj:iMhe'^:;:;ra;:rt;:stp".rt,;r ''-'"'- '•■''»■<■ 

the  approaching  winter     Ne.,Hv  n     """"'-^^  preparing  for 

there  was  sore  nee.l  off  .si,  ment      L      .""1  '*'""  '*''•''  ""'J 
Itans  set  out  to  hunt  sen,     T,         ^/-'"^^'"Sly,  Dr.  Kane  and 

««e,  and  a„  wer:Stat::;iro  ttr:^^^^^^^^^^ 
■.".OS,  rent,  and  siedge  were  lost,  and  but  for  the*  WgHs":'!' 


276 


THE  SEJARCH  FOR  THE   NORTH   POLE; 


bing  Which  Hans  bestowed  opon  Dr.  Kane,  he,  too,  might  have 
been  numbered  among  the  irrecoverables. 

A  friendly  compact  was  now  entered  into  with  the  natives 
according  to  which  Dr.  Kane  was  to  supply  the  Eskimos  with' 
needles,  pins,  knives,  iron,  wood,  etc.,  in  return  for  walrus  and 
seal  meats,  the  loan  of  dogs,  etc.  So  just  was  Dr.  Kane  in  hi.s 
dealings  that  the  agreement  was  never  broken  on  the  part  of 
either  side. 

The  men  became  accustomed  to  the  change  of  diet,  eatine 
the  flesh  raw.     Tne  liver  of  the  walrus  was  esteemed  a  luxurv 

On  December  7th  several  sledge  loads  of  the  natives  visited 
the  brig,  bringing  with  them  Messrs.  Bonsall  and  Peterson  of 
the  Hayes  party.  These  reported  that  they  had  left  their  com- 
panions two  hundred  miles  south  of  the  brig,  and  that  thev 
were  in  desperate  circumstances  and  uncertain  as  to  their 
future  movements. 

Now  to  relieve  them  was  the  first  thought  of  Dr.  Kane- 
but,  alas!  all  but  himself,  Mr.  McGarry  and  Hans  were  on  the 
invalid  list  and  the  doctor  could  not  leave  his  hopital  He 
was  about  to  trust  relief  to  the  care  of  the  Eskimos  when,  on 
the  12th,  the  unfortunate  men  returned  in  company  with  some 
^skimos,  who,  while  encamped  in  a  miserable  hovel,  had  vis 
ited  them  and  given  them  meat,  but  to  whom  they  would 
neither  lend  nor  sell  their  dogs. 

Dr.  Hayes  haJ  thereupon  invited  them  to  partake  of  food 
mixed  with  a  soporific  substance,  and,  the  invitation  being  ac- 
cepted forthwith,  it  wa.s  not  long  ere  the  drowsy  hunters  of 
the  north  were  driving 

PHANTOM  DOGS  IN  DREAMLAND. 

While  Dr.  Hayes  and  companions  were  driving  the  realities  in 
Greenland,  on  the  return  to  the  brig. 

The  unsuspecting  Eskimos  were,  however,  aroused  throu-h 
some  accidental  noise  before  the  dogs  were  far  awav  and  the 
fleeing  party  were  soon  overtaken  by  the  infuriated  natives 
who  were  not  pacified  until  guns  were  leveled  upon  them! 
They  then  agreed  to  take  the  wanderers  to  the  ship,  where,  as 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  8„ 

Z'ZXl  "''  '"'""' '"'''''  ""  «-'"•  »«'"  »'  privation 

About  tl,i»  thle  two  -^  t     *     *™  "  '"■"""^''''  'veleome/ 
i>arty,  when  ou  thepirt  of         ""'''  ""'"'''"'"^  "^  «'  »"« 

DBSERTma   THEIR   COMRADES        . 

released,  a^aiaaeteXwulrhouf""'-  •""*'  "-"■'  "'^-^ 

prewoT  irtir,  ir4:i;;rxt  ""f  ^»^^ "  "^'^  ^^^^ 

orswas  to  seize  these  an,W,^H     1  ''  P'""  "'  ""^  <'•«<''•*• 

thus  depriving  the  e^pedittn  of  f "'""'''  """""^  *''*  ""«««, 
Kane,  howevel-  ae-Un  nnnli  i  .''"u  '"'«'''*'«»'y  services.  Dr 
i"  i.'oLs  for  rji'mf       '"'Pr'^''™<»«'3  'he  culprit  and  placed  him 

Thus  the  winter  wore  awa  v     Fi«oJi        , 
the  men  were  so  much  rXed  in  stren'jh  ttaT T"  "l!*''  ""* 
to  the  ship  with  extreme  difflculh         ^  ™'  '"■"''^" 

«.ieremZdTrthtf  jn;-^"'!,"''-  "'  ""'^'''  t-"'  -'" 
tl.-  brig.  Every  h'n!hti„  u''  "  *"'  •'""^^'•''^*'  *»  ''"audon 
departure,  Dr  Kan  "1  f^^  *■'"  """'''  '""'^y  ^»'  *"«•  A-"! 
'Iiessed  the  men  Lrn      "'l      ."  "'  ^'^"P'""'<'  '>■'<'  tlx-n  ad- 

FIGURE-HEAD 

.epresentiug  a  little  girl  with  painted  cheeks 

.-a    ;;e<frt"sh:;u!u!nr'  "'t  '""  "^  "  """-'  >"•'  '"^  -en 

!'»■  fuel,  can  be  declarCuo  hv   ,       "•"•'"■"»"■"<■,  nor  was  used 

to  the  Arctic  exllb iUu  tt  r         '"""'  """'''•"''''  <"  visitors 

United  8t«te«"ti"n  F         •t™""'''  "'""""»  """"^  *"<> 
n..,mbian  E.xpositi«u,  forty  years  late»,  where 


278 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


"the  little  lady"  looked  sympathetically  down  upon  Lieutenant 
Greely  and  his  ice  and  snow-bound  encampment. 

Having  thus  left  the  "Advance,"  the  party  were  accom- 
panied  to  the  open  v  ater  by  their  friendly  allies,  the  Eskimos 
Says  Kane:  "My  heart  warms  to  these  poor,  dirty,  miserable" 
yet  happy  beings,  so  long  our  neighbors,  and  of  late  so  staunch- 
ly our  friends.     Theirs  is 

NO    AFFECTATION 

Of  regret.  There  are  twenty-two  of  them  around  me,  ail  busv 
in  good  offices  to  the  'Docto  Kayens,'  and  there  are  only  two 
women  and  the  -old  blind  patriarch,  Kresuk  (Kes-shu),  left 
behind  at  the  settlement." 

Working  their  way  southward  with  much  exertion,  thev 
were  fortunate  enough  to  replenish  their  larder  with  a  lar/e 
nuniber  of  eider  ducks  and  eggs,  which  latter  were  gathered 
at  the  rate  of  twelve  hundred  a  day. 

The  saddest  occurrence  of  the  journey  was  the 

DEATH    OF    CHRISTIAN    OHLSEN. 

one  of  the  most  useful  men  in  the  party.  This  was  caused  bv 
an  internal  straining  of  the  body  received  in  saving  one  of  the 
sledges  from  being  lost  through  a  tide-hole.  His  body  was 
laid  to  rest  with  due  ceremony  and  great  respect  beneath  a 
cairn  of  stones  erected  upon  the  shore.  A  sheet  of  lead  duly 
inscribed  was  placed  upon  his  breast. 

r.'J'\?^  ^^''^^  J«»rneyed  they  became  greatly  exhausted. 
Difficult  breathing,  swollen  feet,  sleeplessness,  and  ravenoun 
appetites  pursued  them  continually.  And  here  we  again  quote 
the  graphic  words  of  Kane:  "It  was  at  this  crisis  of  our  f(,r. 
tunes  that  we  saw  a  large  seal  floating  on  a  small  patch  of  ice- 
as  is  the  custom  of  these  animals-and  seemingly  asleep.  Sig- 
nal was  made  for  one  of  the  boats  to  follow  astern,  and, 

TREMBLING    WITH    ANXIETY. 

we  prepared  to  crawl  down  upon  him.  Peterson,  with  the 
large  English  rifle,  was  stationed  in  the  bow,  and  stockings 


6B,   UfE    in    the   great  white   world.  2,0 

were  drawn  over  the  oars  is  m,.«ia„. 

mal  our  .-xcite.ueDt  b«.  nl !      .        '    ^^  *"  -<'•■'■•«•  "'^  ""i- 

ly  keep  »tr.,ke  '""  ■"'""'"^ '""at  tbe  .ueu  cul.l  hard- 

...elt^Vtt':.-r?„d ':;,?'■'' r""'""^' '""""  »p-«>  - 

.'.way  the  oar»  we™  .IL™    /  "  ""  *'"''""  '""""■""  y«"^" 

a  single  scull  aster«  I  e  '  !^  „  '  "?  """■*"'  ""  '■''^"<"'«'  "ith 
when  we  were  a  m'stwiu,'"!!™''?' '"'"■'■*'''■■'■'' '"''''™'' 
remember  the  Unnl^l^ Z^"^^"'  ?""  '."  «"«  "'^  I  <«" 
upon  '  ''"""""'  <il'»««t  despairing  expression 

THE    MEN'S    THIN    PACES 

-sting  upon  t.!d;r„i' ;:',':';  t  "",''  "•'"■ '"'  "<-" 

a  .shout  of  triun.ph  «,e  „,„  ,  tte."  thf iT';*  "*  ^"'••■'■-  '"'" 
*!..•  -areel,  dea,i  ....ature  aid  i,!;;  ,  .  ei.'ut  i2"';":  """"" 
ing  themselves  with  its  life-s,vi,.,«i  .''''''"*' «'"'«• 
oim,e  was  wasted  the  „  n  ,  *-  J  '  "'"'  '''"""'•  Not  an 
•■-is  being  eonsun'',.    vH^^""  """""'  """  '""^ '"^  - 

THE    DEVIL'S    THUMB, 
tlio  solitary  sentinpl  nf  i./w.i.    ^^  4^1 

"ay,  "«  A^ust  "t  th  ,      ;,    u^r,,:'";:'  ?';--  «->  MelWHe 
Shaekleton  also  in  the  re'       , ,     ,        '*"•,''  '•^'"■"'*'  ""-'  t'ape 

"-t  the,  met  a  sing,,,  ,,„,..„  wh,'!;;:,:,.,  •:;;•""-'  *"" 

i.epa'd'leli'^r  "^■''  '"■'  "™"'"  «•"""'  "-  <'--l .e,  as 

Two  days  later  a  distinct  "Ilellot"  f,.ii  „„      „    . 
'■"'»e  from  one  of  the  men  ,„,   ..,'-,     J'  '"  *'"'"'  «>'■«•     If 
bound  ,ro„,   tipernavik    o  K        ;     ""  ""'"""  "''"""'.  »'en 
learne,!  the  ,.hief  eve  ,      1     nt i ,"^,  T""  "•"■  '•'■""•  "'"» 

"A.lvance"  „,ore  fhan  tivr;.:!:,'.:  b:',:;:''-''  *""  '"''"'"■""•'■ '"  "-' 

-Oodhaven,  Dilc" ^^L L;    ,t  tL'e'.r''"''"'''',';'  -'""  *'''■- 

t^vei.>,  as  tUe  place  is  called,  Dr.  Kane 


m 


THE  SEARCH  POtl  THE  NORTM   POLE; 


embarked  on  tlie  Danish  boat  "Mariane,"  on  the  11th  of  Hep- 
teniber,  inlrndinjjf  to  return  to  America  by  way  of  England. 
JuHt  as  the  steamer  was  leaving  the  harbor,  a  strayge  vessel 
Avas  seen  to  approach.  Jt  was  che  "Arctic,"  under  Captain 
Ilartstene,  thc^i  in  search  of  the  brave  men  who  had  ju»t  suc- 
ceeded in  .Making  their  own  escape.  Captain  Ilartstene  had 
some  weeks  i»revious  passed  northward,  but  meeting  the  Es- 
kimos learned  of  Dr.  Kane's  retreat  and  thereupon  <lirected  his 
course  southward,  overtaking  them  at  Godhaven. 

As  the  "Arctic"  approaclied  the  "Mariane,"  Dr.  Kane  and 
men  set  off  in  their  good  boat  "Faith"  to  meet  their  country- 
men. 

"Is  that  Dr.  Kane?"  inquired  Captain  Ilartstene  eagerly  of 
a  little  man 

IN    A    RAGGED    FLANNEL    SHIRT. 

as  the  "Faith"  was  rowed  alongside. 

It  is  needless  to  say  that  it  was,  or  to  attempt  to 
describe  the  greeting  that  awaited  the  men  as  they  were  re- 
ceived on  board,  or  the  joyous  welcome  given  them  upon  their 
arrival  in  New  York,  on  the  11th  of  October,  1855. 

The  results  of  the  expedition  were  highly  satisfactory:  al- 
though n(,  traces  of  the  missing  Franklin  were  discovered 
yet  It  was  made  evident  that  the  lost  explorer  had  not  pur' 
sued  that  route;  more  than  a  thousand  miles  of  coast  line 
were  added  to  the  geographies,  an  important  knowledge  of  the 
northernmost  Eskimos  obtained,  and  other  noteworthy  scien- 
tihc  data  secured. 

Through  Sir  John  Crampton,  the  British  Ambassador  at 
Washington,  her  Majesty's  Cxovernment  offered  its  cordial  con- 
gratulations  for  the  safe  return  of  the  expedition  and  ex- 
pressed its  sincere  gratitude  to  Dr.  Kane,  Mr.  Orinnell,  an<l 
tlie  United  States  for  aft'ording  aid  in  searching  for  Sir  John 
Franklin.  Through  Mr.  Crampton  the  Queen's  medal  was 
struck  for  the  oflicers  and  nu^n  of  the  "Advance,"  and  a  large 
and  costly  silver  vase  presented  to  Mr.  Grinnell  "for  his  exer- 
tions and  munificence." 

Two  years  later  Dr.  Kane's  health  quite  failed  and  he  went 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  281 

bodied,  FobruarvlfS  i«r-  ,'.       '*"*•'**'<<' ^*>  <^"1>J«,  wbore 

wore'  ^      '      ^''  ^«"^  tt"''^^-«^'v<.,.     His  b.Ht  wciUh 

"Let  not  .v(»nr  beart  be  troublc-d:  ve  believe  in  (},h1  h.h- 
also  m  ine.     r„  „.,  p,,,ei.'s  bouse  are  n.^  Z^^^^'^H 
we.  n^  so,  I  would  bave  told  ,ou.     I  .o  t^  pCr^pJl^:^ 

Ills  n.otber  and  two  brotbers  tenderly  eared  for  b"in,  durin-^ 
h IH  last  bours    bin  bo<lv  bein,  taken  fron.   Havana  t     N e w 
Orleans,  and  tbenee  to  Pbiladelpbia,  wbere  tbe  funer     <L 
quies  were  beld  in  tbe  cbureb  of  bis  boybood  a   d    n    b     H 
miliar  Independence  Hall,  a  vast  tln.,n«f  enibra    t     1     ri eb 
and  tbe  poor,  tbe  learned  and  tbe  unlet  ered,  a    enibl  U 
pay  sincere  respect  to  bis  memory.  asscmoiinj.  to 

As  may  be  inferred.  Dr.  Kan(>  possessed  a  decidediv  reliu- 

the  eloquence  of  bis  soul.     On  one  occasion  be  tbus  wrote: 

I  never  lost  my  bope;   I  looked  to  tbe  cominj.^  sprinjr  as 
full  of  responsibilities,  but  I  bad  bodily  stren,tb  and  mora 
toneenougb  to  look  tbrougb  tbem  t<»  tbe  end.     A  trust  baled 
on  experience  as  well  as  on  pron.ises  buoyed  me  up  at  tbe  worst 
of  .mes     Can  it  fatalism,  as  you  ignorantly  ma.v,  tbere  istba 
in  tbe  story  of  every  eventful  life  wbicb  teacbes  tbe  inefficiencv 
of  buman  means  and  tbe  present  control  of  a  Suprenn^  a.-encv 
See  bow  often  relief  bas  c(.me  at  tbe  moment  of  extremUv   in 
forms  stran-ely  unsousbt,  almost,  at  tbe  tiuus  unwelcome- 
see,  still  more,  bow  tbe  back  bas  been  strenj-tbened  to  its  in' 
creasing  burden,  and  tbe  beart  cheered  by  some  conscious 
influence  of  an  unseen  Power." 

How  well  Dr.  Kane  acted  upon  these  principles  is  well 
Illustrated  in  tbe  regulations  wbicb  be  maintained  even  dur- 
ing the  retreat  to  Upernavik,  for  then  were  held  "daiiv  prayers 
both  morning  and  evening,  all  bands  gathering  nnind  in  a 
circle  and  standing  uncovered."  We  have  a  more  detailed  ac 
count  of  this  from  Mr.  Wilson,  one  of  tbe  partv.     He  says- 

"While  the  rest  of  the  party  surrounded  the  sledge  with  un- 
covered beads,  Dr.  Kaue  rendered  thanks  to  the  groat  Euler 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 

(»f  hiiniaii  (IcMliiiics  f«»i'  the  jioodncsH  lUHiad  evinced  in  preserv- 
ing our  lives  while  stnij-oljnn  „ver  llie  iee-«leser(,  exposed  to 
a  blast  almost  as  withering  as  that  from  a  furnace.  Our  (;oni- 
mander  pour<'d  forth  read.v  and  eloqnent  sentences  of  j^rati- 
tude  in  that  lonely  s<ditude,  whose  scenery  olfered  nothing?  to 
cheer  the  mind  and  evervthin^-  to  depress  it." 

We  are  prepared,  therefore,  <<»  account  for  the  tranquillity 
with  which  this  heroic  man  took  his  final  journey  from  eai-tli, 
and  may  well  understand  Avhy  shortly  before  this  "two  or  three 
tiTues  every  day  he  must  hear  the  words  of  life  from  the  lij.s 
of  her  who  had  tauf!;ht  his  own  to  lisp  his  infant  prayer,"  and  at 
the  last  to  breathe  those  very  words  as  his  last. 


CAPTAIN  HALLS  GRAVE. 


OB,    UFE    IN    THE    OBEAT    WHITE    WOBLD, 


213 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

M'CLINTOCK'S    SUCCESSFUL    VOYAGE. 

So  persistently  was  the  «,,„,.|,  .„ai„taiue.l  that  at  leuirth 

o,n„  .m,l  ,  f  ,|,„  expedition  that  secured  this  result  was  Can- 

I"  n     ..aneis  Leopold  MeClintoek,  already  ,.xperie„  e  lu  t Z- 

■    .  s  of  Areta.  service.     His  efforts  w.m..  ably  see..  ,  «|  by 

apt.,  n  Al  eu  Young,  who  not  only  threw  his  whole  soul  into 

I  -  euterpnse,  but  also  eontributed  £5()0.     Lieuteuaut    lol^scm 

ld<,.w,se  performed  excellent  service  as  an  explorer  wir 

"alker,  a  skilled  physician  and  scientist,  reniered   nv^    It 

• .  f  "^  ^<'»'«".  *"<■  "Fox,"  a  steam  yacht  „,  177  tons  bu  den 

.a  ned  a  complement  of  twentyflve  men,  all  v  .lunteerr  ev' 
'■nt;;;;..  "f  whom  had  already  participated   u  Arctic  work 
1  he  expenses  of  the  expedition  were  shared  by  LaTlv  Fr-mk 
n,  the  Koyal  Hociety,  and  the  London  Hoard  of  Trade     T,'e 
"Imiralty  supplied  more  than  three  tons  of  peu  nd  „„   ^nd 
the  boar,  of  ordnance  the  guu.s,  ammunition,  e  c.         ,  "'t  m, 
Olmtock  had  but  to  ask  and  evei^thing  nec'essary  wal  fre^^ 

Among  the  men  who  joined  was  Carl  Peterson  the  i... 

nay  she  soon  became  ioe-bonnd  and  remained  bes"?  fof  cTirh 
Td  m'ile::""'  '""''^'"'  ""■""^^""^  --  «•"">-%?„" 

of  Anri'?L""f^  ''  Holsteinberg,  Oreenland,  on  the  28th 
Of  April,  1858,  the  crew  refreshed  themselves,  supplies  were 


284 


THE  aEARCH    FOR  THE    NOBTII    POLE; 


•""■;';  "'"'  "«"'"  ""•  "f""»"  «'t  ""i .1,,.  SIh  of  M„v  „„„ 

""'!  '<"■■■•"»••»  «„■.,!,  ,„  Ki„K  W „,.„  ,,a„',|,  „,,i,.|,  (I,.   '  ■    ' 

having  .„.,.,,  „,.,ai„.,„  f„„„  „„.  naHv^^,.,..,,!;;;  „         .    Z 
a    on,-..  ,  ,„  ,l„„.,l.     N..ar  Cap,.  II,.,.„.,„.,,  ,„„  „„„,„  '  "^ 

he  iHlaii.l,  Captain  M.Cii, -k  ,liN,„v,.,.,.,l  a  l,|,.a,l„.,l  s       , 

pockctlxM.k,  and  a  f(Mv  Icttei-N.  »'"'iiuij.,  .1 

reec^i/*""'  ^^''*"''  ^^^^"*^^"«"t  ''-^^-  ^"uud  the  following 
"May  2H,  1847. 

70°""'  ^'.f  T'"^^'"'  ""^^  ''^""'"'"  ^^'^"^*'''^''^  «n  i*'<'  i"  latitude 

84^.^";    "'f •'"'''  ''°  '''  ^^^'•^*-     ^»»-n,.    winter       ii 
184(.-.  (tins  date  sh.uld  evidently  be  1845-(>)  at  Beeehey    s  u. 
in  latitude  74   43'  28"  north,  longitude  91°  31>'  15''   vc4t   a  ^ 

thewe't'T"  .t  ''^^""'^'*-  ^^»-"»^'l  to  7r  and  retnn  c^  bv 
the  west  side  of  Cornwallis  Island.  ^ 

^An'^"';'/'"''"''^*"  commanding  the  expedition. 
"All  well. 

nn  J'"?'  "'ri'""^'  "^  t^^'«  «ffi^'^^»"«  and  six  men  left  the  ships 
on  Monday,  24th  May,  1847. 

"Or.  Gore,  Lieut. 

"('has.  De  Voeux,  Mate." 

Around  the  margin  of  the  above  record  were  written,  in 
another  hand,  the  following 

SAD    WORDS: 

"April  25,  1848. 

"H.  M   S.  'Terror'  and  'Erebus'  were  deserted  on  tlu^  22d 

mh^Ti  !  ^""T^"  ^'  ^'  ^^-  "^  *^^^'  ^^^J°S  been  beset  sinre 
12th  of  September,  1846.  The  officers  and  crews  consisting  of 
105  souls,  under  the  command  of  (Captain  Crozier,  landed  here 
in  latitude  69°  37'  42"  north,  longitude  98°  41'  wc^st.    Sir  Jno 


'  Ma.v  and 

<•»•  SournI, 

Hie  cru'i-- 

Iiii'm   iiicii 

'iirch  vviiN 

point  of 

ofhinj;,  n 

'ollow'intr 


Jatifudt' 
tcrcd  in 
y  iMland, 
St,  after 
irnod  by 


ho  Hhips 

ate." 
tten,  in 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE 


WORLD. 


tho  22d 
f^t  since 
itinff  of 
pd  Ikm'o 
lir  Juo, 


286 


THE   SEARCH   FOR  THE   NORTH   POLE; 


Franklin  died  on  tbe  11th  of  June,  1847,  and  the  total  loss  by 
deaths  in  the  expedition  has  been  to  this  date  nine  olii(-rs  and 
lifteen  men. 

,«.        ,,     ,,r.  ^  (Signed)        «Jas.  Fitzjames, 

(feigned)     "F.  R.  M.  Crozier,  «capt.  'Erebus '  " 

"Capt.  and  Sr.  Offioer." 
"And  start  (on)  to-morrow,  26th,  for  Back's  Fish  Kiver." 

Still  later  on  the  western  extremity  of  King  William's 
island  was  discovered  a  large  boat  containing 

to 
TWO    GHASTLY    SKELETONS, 

one  being  that  of  a  small-bodied -young  man,  possibly  an  of- 
ficer, and  near  which  lay  a  pair  of  worked  slippers,  the  other 
that  of  a  large,  powerful  person,  the  skeleton  being  in  fair 
condition  and  covered  with  clothes  and  furs,  close  beside  which 
were  five  watches  and  two  double-barreled  guns,  one  barrel  of 
each  being  cocked  and  loaded,  standing  muzzle  upward  against 
the  boat. 

Here,  too,  were  found  five  or  six  books,  such  as  "Christian 
Melodies,"  which  bore  upon  the  i  itle-page  an  inscription  from 
the  donor  to  G.  G.  (supposed  to  mean  Lieutenant  Graham 
Gore);  the  "Vicar  of  Wakefield;" 

A   SMALL   BIBLE 

containing  numerous  marginal  notes  and  having  entire  pas- 
sages underlined;  besides  others  of  a  devotional  or  scrip- 
tural character. 

There  were  also  found  the  covers  of  a  prayer  book  and  of  a 
New  Testament. 

Among  a  great  quantity  of  articles  picked  up  were  boots 
handkerchiefs— black,  white,  and  figured— toilet  articles,  car- 
penter's tools,  ammunition,  knives,  needles  and  thread, 
matches,  bayonet  scabbards  made  into  knife-sheaths,  etc..  etc! 
These  articles  were  carefully  collected  and  placed  in  the  Green- 
wich  Hospital,  where  they  may  be  seen  to-day. 

A  small  quantity  of  tea  and  about  forty  pounds  of  choco- 
late were  the  only  provisions  found. 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  287 

Fuel  was  not  scarce,  for  near  the  boat  was  a  drift-tree  Ivin^ 
upon  the  beach.  *^  ^J'ng 

An  old  Eskimo  woman  was  met  with  who  stated  that  "the 

.  Jve";  ZTzzTr-" '"  *•'  ^^-'^  ^"-«->  »"- 

Besides  these  startling  discoveries,  other  valuable  results 
nf  a  sc,ent,he  character  rewarded  the  labors  of  th^e  inde 
angable  men.  The  .oology,  botany,  meteorology,  anTterres- 
nal  n.agnet.sm  of  the  regions  traverse<l  received  care  u  a  • 
eu  ,on.  Geographically  speaking,  Bellot's  Strait  was  proved 
0  be  navigabe  from  which  waters  the  unKnown  coast  o 
o.>tua  was  delineated  as  far  as  the  magnetic  pole  The 
"Fox"  spent  the  winter  of  1858-59  at 

PORT    KENNEDV. 

"..  the  north  side  of  Bellot's  Strait,  whence  explorations  were 
iiuiilereHultingintherevelationsreferredto  "™s  were 

Th,.re  was  also  discovered  the  strait  which,  in  commemo- 
al.on  of  the  services  of  the  gallant  leader  of  this  exnelitZ 
.«  call,.,!  McCIintock  Channel.  Setting  sail  on  the  9m  rf  Z' 
gust,  1859  the  "Pox"  arrived  in  England  on  the  20th  „fsep- 
t"." ber  folk,w,ng,  where  Captain  McCIintock  was  warmly  col 
.'.ucialed  and  duly  knighted.  His  name  fir.t  appear"  n  Ms 
volume  on  one  of  its  first  pages. 


BOMG-CBARMS  OF  lO-LOO-UE, 


288 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


ClIAPTEK    XXX. 


EXPEDITION   OF  HAYES. 


WlieD,  iu  1853-5,  Dr.  Kaiu'  made  liis  famous  voyage  into 
uorthei'ii  waters,  aiiioug-  those  who  accoinpaiiied  him,  as  we 
have  already  learued,  was  Dr.  Isaac  Israel  Hayes,  but  twenty- 
one  years  of  age  and  just  graduated  in  medicine  at  the  tinio 
of  departure  of  the  expedition. 

He,  like  Dr.  Kane,  believed  in  the  existence  of  an  "Open 
Polar  Sea,"  and,  like  his  inspiring  leader,  desired  to  launch 
upon  its  unknown  expanse  and  to  explore  the  contiguous  lauds. 

Accordingly,  he  submitted  his  ideas  and  plans  to  the  Ameri- 
can Geographical  and  Statistical  Society  near  the  close  of 
1857,  and,  in  the  following  April,  to  the  American  Association 
for  the  Advancement  of  Science. 

The  Association  at  once  appointed  a  committee  of  sixteen 
on  the  subject,  and  similar  action  was  soon  taken  by  other 
societies. 

In  aid  of  the  project, 

FOUR    HUNDRED    BUSINESS    MEN 

and  firms  of  Albany,  Boston,  New  York,  and  Philadeli)hia 
made  liberal  subscriptions,  the  aid  thus  received  being  supi)h'- 
mented  by  the  proceeds  of  lectures  delivered  by  Dr.  Hayes. 
The  Smithsonian  Institution  loaned  the  necessary  instruments, 
and  by  June,  18G0,  the  necessary  funds  and  equipment  had 
been  secured. 

The  expedition,  numbering  fifteen  persons,  embarked  at 
Boston  in  the  staunch  little  merchant  schooner,  "Spring  Hill," 
the  name  of  which,  however,  had  been  changed  bv  act  of  Con- 
gress to  the  "United  States." 

Setting  sail  on  the  7th  of  July,  the  expedition  arrived  off 


voyage  into 
him,  as  we 
but  twent.v- 
at  the  time 

)f  an  "Open 
li  to  launch 
^uous  hinds. 
)  the  Anieri- 
he  eh).se  of 
Association 

B  of  sixteen 
n  by  other 


hihuh'li)hia 
ing  su[)])h'- 
Dr.  Hayes, 
istrunu'iits, 
pnieut  had 

I  barked  at 
•ring  Hill," 
act  of  Con- 

irrived  off 


f 


Brig.-Gen'l 


A      Tir     r' 


Greely,  Chief  Signal  Officer,  U.  S.  A. 
(Sco  CliJipters  I.  mid  XL.) 


Near  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  from  Top  of  South  End  of  Conical  Rock. 

(Sci>  paKi'2rj3,  etc.) 


South  Greenland  Sledge  and  Ancient  Eskimo  Sledge,  found  at  Cape 
Baird,  Latitude  8i    30    North,  Grinnell  Land. 


I, See  Clwiiitcr  .\L.) 


oil,    LIFE?    IN    THfi    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  28d 

Disco  on  the  last  day  of  the  month,  having  made  an  average 
speed  of  one  hundred  miles  a  day  sinee  the  departure  from 
Boston. 

"When  off  Svarten  Huk,  on  the  2d  of  August,  the  long- 
favoring  wind  died  completely  away,  the  fog  lifted  and 

ICEBERG  AFTER  ICEBERG 

burst  into  View,  like  castles  in  a  fairy  tale.  The  sea  was 
smooth  as  glass;  n»)t  a  ripple  broke  its  dead  surface-  not  a 
breath  of  air  stirred.  The  dark  headlands  stood  boldly  out 
against  the  sky;  the  clouds,  and  sea,  and  bergs,  and  mountains 
were  bathed  in  an  atmosphere  of  crimson,  and  gold,  and  pur- 
ple, most  singularly  beautiful.  The  air  was  warm  almost  as 
a  summer's  night  at  home;  and  yet  there  were  the  iceber-s  and 
the  bleak  mountains,  with  which  the  fancy  of  our  land  of^een 
lulls  and  waving  forests  can  associate  nothing  but  cold  re- 
pulsiveness." 

Four  days  later  the  ship  was  met  off  Proven  by  a  fleet  of 
kyakers,  while  a  cannon  resting  beneath  the  Danish  fla"'  on 
shore  gave  her  loudest  welcome. 

Concerning  the  "skin  canoe"  of  the  natives,  Hayes  thus 
writes:  *^ 

"The  kayak  of  the  Greenlander  is  the  frailest  specimen  of 
marine  architecture  that  ever  carried  human  freight.  It  is 
eighteen  feet  long  and  as  many  inches  wide  at  its  middle  and 
tapers,  with  an  upward  curving  line,  to  a  point  at  either  end. 
1  he  skeleton  of  the  boat  is  made  of  light  wood;  the  covering 
IS  of  tanned  sealskin,  sewed  together  by  the  native  women  with 

SINEW   THREAD, 

and  with  a  strength  and  dexterity  quite  astonishing.  Not  a 
<  rop  of  water  finds  its  way  through  their  seams,  and  the  skin 
1  self  IS  perfectly  waterproof.  The  boat  is  about  nine  inches 
•ic'^P,  nnd  the  top  is  covered  like  the  bottom.  There  is  no 
opeiiing  into  it,  except  a  round  hole  in  the  center,  which  admits 
the  hunter  as  far  as  his  hips.  The  hole  is  surrounded  with 
a  wooden  rim,  over  which  the  kyaker  laces  the  lower  ed-e  of 


I" 


,1     * 

lit 

1  jl  If 

h:  U 

1  mw 

2d0 


THE  SEARCH   FOR  THE   NORTH   POLEJ 


his  water-tight  jacket,  and  thus  fastens  himself  in  and  lieeps 
the  water  out.  He  propels  himself  with  a  single  oar  about 
six  feet  long,  which  terminates  in  a  blade  or  paddle  at  either 
end. 

"This  instrument  of  locomotion  is  grasped  in  the  center,  and 
is  dipped  in  the  water  alternately  to  right  and  left.  The  boat 
is  graceful  as  a  duck,  anr  ': -!  ^  .o«  a  f^-ather.  It  has  no  ballast 
and  no  keel,  and  it  rideb  t  on  the  surface  of  the  water. 

It  is  therefore  necessarily  i.^.  heavy.  Long  practice  is  required 
to  manage  it,  and  no  tight  rope  dancer  ever  needed  more  steady 
nerve  and  skill  of  balance  than  this  same  savage  kyakei". 
Yet  in  this  frail  craft  he  does  not  hesitate  to  ride  seas  which 
would  swamp  an  ordinary  boat,  or  to  break  through  surf  whicli 
may  sweep  completely  over  him.  But  he  is  used  to  hard  bat- 
tles, and  in  spite  of  every  fortune  he  keeps  himself  upright." 

At  Proven,  Hayes  endeavored  to  secure  dogs,  but  owing 
to  an  epidemic  among  them  he  could  obtain  but  six  old  ones 
and  a  lesser  number  of  young  ones.  The  chief  trader,  Mr. 
Hansen,  however,  kindly  placed  at  his  disposal  his  own  team. 

Upernavik  was  reached  on  the  12th  and  farewell  letters 
were  despatched  by  the  Danish  oil-boat  then  about  to  sail  for 
Copenhagen. 

While  at  this  place,  Gilson  Caruthers,  the  boatswain  and 
carpenter  of  the  schooner,  was  found  dead  in  his  bunk.  In 
arranging  for  his  burial  Dr.  Hayes  called  upon  the  village 
pastor  and  thus  describes  the  occurrence: 

"I  tapped  at  the  door,  and  was  ushered  into  a  cozy  little 
apartment  by  the  oddest  specimen  of  womankind  that  ever 
answered  bell.  She  was  a  full-blown  Esquimaux,  with  cop- 
pery complexion  and  black  hair,  which  was  twisted  into  a 
knot  on  the  top  of  her  head.  She  wore  a  jacket  which  ex- 
tended to  her  waist,  sealskin  pantaloons  and  boots  reaching 
above  the  knees,  dyed  scarlet,  and  embroidered  in  a  manner 
that  would  astonish  the  girls  of  Dresden.  The  room  was 
redolent  of  the  fragrant  rose  and  ii.ignonette  and  heliotrope, 
which  nestled  in  the  sunlight  under  the  snow-white  curtains. 
A  canary  chirped  on  its  perch  above  the  door,  a  cat  was  purring 


OR,    LIFE    IN    TttJ3    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  M 

on  the  hearth  rug,  and  an  unmistakable  gentleman  put  out 
a  soft  white  hand  to  give  me  welcome.  It  was  the  Rev  Mr 
Anton,  missionary  of  the  place.  Mrs.  Anton  soon  emerged 
from  a  snug  little  chamber  adjoining.  Her  sister  came  in  im- 
mediately afterward  and  we  were  soon  grouped  about  a  home- 
like table." 

Leaving  Upernavik,  the  little  ship  was  soon  sailing  amone 
a  mighty  host  of  lofty  icebergs,  more  than  five  hundred  of 
which  Dr.  Hayes  counted  as  the  expedition  proceeded  north- 
ward. 

On  August  23d  Melville  Bay  was  entered  and  found  clear  of 
ice.  It  was  crossed  in  fifty-five  hours.  On  its  north  shore,  at  a 
point  a  little  east  of  Cape  York,  was  found  Hans  Hendricks  of 
Dr.  Kane's  expedition.  Having  married  a  young  woman  of 
this  northernmost  tribe  of  Eskimos,  he  had  continued  to  live 
among  them.  He  now,  together  with  his  wife  and  child  ac- 
companied Dr.  Hayes  towards  the  old  headquarters  of  the 
''Advance"  in  1853-55. 

On  the  28th,  Cape  Alexander,  at  the  entrance  to  Smith 
Sound,  was  passed.  Here,  in  a  furious  gale,  the  ship  was 
greatly  injured,  but  ultimately  found  security  in  Hartstene 
Ray,  at  a  point  eight  miles  northeast  of  the  cape. 

While  the  vessel  was  being  repaired.  Dr.  Haves  and  Mr 
Dodge,  the  mate,  made  a  whale-boat  excursion  to  Littleton 
Island,  latitude  78°  20'.  Its  solitary  inhabitant,  a  reindeer 
was  killetl  by  Mr.  Dodge.  ' 

Meanwhile,  Hans  and  the  interpreter  each  killed  two  more 
deer  in  the  vicinity  of  the  ship.  Upon  his  return.  Dr.  Hayes 
decided  to  establish  himself  in  winter-quarters,  namin-  the 
lirrbor  * 

PORT   FOULKE. 

in  grateful  remembrance  of  his  friend  and  patron,  Mr.  William 
Parker  Foulke,  of  Philadelphia. 

Hunting  parties  were  now  sent  out  and  an  abundant  sup- 
ply of  foxes,  hares,  and  reindeer  secured.  Mr.  August  Sonntao- 
the  astronomer,  and  second  in  command  of  the  expedition' 


m 


THE  SEARCH   FOR  THE  NORTH   POLE; 


1^, 
I   ; 


busied  himself  in  the  meantime  with  meteoroloj^ieal  and  mag- 
netic observations,  and  pendulum  experiments. 

In  October,  Dr.  Hayes  and  Mr.  Sonntag  examined  and  sur- 
veyed 

"MY    BROTHER   JOHN'S   GLACIER." 

discovered  and  nametl  by  Dr.  Kane  in  honor  of  his  brother,  Mr. 
John  P.  Kane,  who  died  in  1886.  When  on  this  trip.  Dr.  Hayes 
fell  in  with  a  drove  of  one  hundred  reindeer,  he  and  his  driver 
each  killing  two. 

During  their  absence  three  of  the  men  at  the  ship  killed 
seventeen  more  of  the  same  kind  of  game. 

About  this  time  was  celebrated  the  birthday  of  Mr.  Mc- 
Cormick,  the  sailing-master.  A  big  "dinner"  Avas  served  on 
the  occasion.  Similar  proceedings  were  had  on  other  like  days 
as  tending  to  promote  contentment  and  good  fellowship  among 
the  men. 

Prom  the  22d  to  the  27th  of  October  Dr.  Hayes  was  engaged 
in  further  explorations  of  Brother  John's  Glacier.  He  ad- 
vanced upon  it  to  a  point  seventy  miles  from  the  ship  and  at 
an  elevation  of  five  thousand  feet  above  sea-level.  Here  the 
thermometer  registered  — 34°,  but  upon  returning  to  the  ship  it 
was  ascertained  that  the  temperature  had  not  been  lower 
than  —12°. 

Meanwhile,  Sonntag  had  determined  the  distance  from 
headquarters  to  Cape  Isabella  to  be  thirty-one  miles,  and  to 
Cape  Sabine,  latitude  78°  45',  the  easternmost  point  of  Elles- 
mere  Land,  forty-two  miles.  By  October  28th  the  following 
comprised  the  list  of  game  obtained: 

Ptarmigans,  1;  auks,  6;  dovekies,  8;  eider  ducks,  14;  foxes, 
21;  hares,  12;  seals,  1;  reindeer,  74,  besides  24  deposited  in 
caches. 

In  November  appeared  the  first  number  of  the  "Port  Foulke 
Weekly  News."  It  originated  at  the  suggestion  of  thr  com- 
mander, and  i'ts  advent  was  duly  celebrated.  Mr.  George  F. 
Knorr,  but  eighteen  years  of  age  and  Dr.  Hayes'  private  secre- 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  293 

faiT  was  selected  as  the  "orator  of  the  day."     His  address  was 
as  follows: 

"FELLOW-CITIZENS:— 

"railed  by  the  unanimous  voice  of  tiiis  unenlightened  com- 
n.unity  to  inaugurate  the  new  era  which  has  <lawue<l  upon  a 
henighted  region,  it  is  my  happy  privilege  to  announce  that 
ue  have,  at  the  cost  of  mnch  time,  labor  and  means,  supplied 
a  want  whl<.h  has  too  long  been  felt  by  the  people  of  Port 
I^oulke      Ue  are,  f(.|low-citizens,  no  longer  without  that  in- 
al.enable  birthright  of  vvery  American  citizen-a  free  press 
ami  exponent  of  public  opinion.     Overcome  with  the  gravitv 
o   my  situation  I  feel  myself  unable  to  make  you  a  speech  be- 
htting  the  solemnity  and  importance  of  the  occasion     It  is 
proper  however,  that  1  should  state,  in  behalf  of  myself  aijd 
my  «<'lH^mian  brother  (Henry  W.  l)o<lgc,  the  mate  and  editor- 
in-chief),  tiiat,  in  observance  of  a  time-honored  custom,  we  will 
keep  our  opinions  for  ourselves  and  our  arguments  for  the 
public.     The  inhabitants  of  Port  Foulke  desire  the  speedy  re- 
turn of  the  sun;  we  will  advocate  and  urge  it.  They  wish  light- 
we  will  address  onrselves-to  the  celestial  orbs  and  point  out  the 
opportunities  for  reciprocity.     ♦     ♦     » 

"Fellow-citizens,  this  is  a  memorable  epoch  in  the  history 
of  Port  F(,ulke.     We  are  informed  that  its  original  name  is 
Aimyeiqueipablaitah,  which  means-after,  it  is  pronounced- 
The  Place  of  the  Howling  Winds,'     *     ♦     *    on  the  remotest 
confines  (.f  our  widespread  country— a  country,  fellow-citizens 
whose  vast  sides  are  bathed  by  the  illimitable  ocean      ♦     *     * 
It  now  devolves  upon  us  to  bring  the  vexed  question  of  na- 
tional boundaries  to  a  point— to  a  point,  sirs.     We  must  cp  -ry 
It  to  the  pole  itself,  and  there,  sirs,  we  will  nail  the  Stars  and 
Stripes,  and  our  fiag-staff  will  become  the  spindle  of  the  wortd 
and  the  universal  Yankee  nation  will  go  whirling  round  it  like 
a  top. 

"Fellow-citizens  and  friends,  in  conclusion  allow  me  to  pro- 
pose a  sentiment  befitting  the  occasion,  A  free  press,  and  the 
universal  Yankee  nation.  May  the  former  continue  in  time  to 
i.'onie  as  in  times  gone  by,  the  hand  maiden  of  liberty,  and  the 


♦■s. 


29i 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


<Miiblem  of  progroHs;  and  inuy  the  laltor  abHoi-b  'all  frpation,' 
aud  bocoiiH'  the  grand  celestial  whirligig." 

During  the  first  three  weeks  in  December  twenty-seven  of 
the  thirty-six  dogs  died  of  (he  same  disease  that  had  decimated 
the  packs  in  South  (Ireenland. 

During  the  period  of  Arctic  night,  the  stars  shone  with  al- 
most equal  brightness  at  all  hours.     Says  Hayes: 

"The  m(M)n,  from  its  rising  to  its  setting,  shines  continually, 
eircling  round  the  horizon,  never  setting  until  it  has  run  its 
ten  days  of  brightness;  and  it  shines  with  a  brillianty  which 
one  will  hardly  observe  elsewhere.  The  uniform  whiteness  of 
the  landscape,  and  the  general  clearness  of  the  atmosphere, 
add  to  the  illumination  of  its  rays,  and  one  nmy  see  to  read 
by  its  light  with  ease.  The  natives  often  use  it  as  they  do  the 
sun,  to  guide  their  nomadic  life,  and  to  lead  them  to  their 
hunting  grounds." 

On  the  (>th  of  January  there  were  two  brilliant  auroral 
displays.  By  the  middle  of  the  month  the  snow-fall  had  in- 
(creased  to  53  3-4  inches. 

A    SAD    OCCURRENCE 

is  now  to  be  noted.  Mr.  Sonntag  and  Hans  having  set  out  on 
a  journey  on  the  21st,  news  was  brought  back,  eight  days  later, 
that  Sonntag  had  fallen  into  the  sea  through  a  crack  in  the 
ice,  and  although  rescued  and  vigorously  rubbed  by  Hans,  he 
became  so  thoroughly  chilled  that  he  died  in  the  course  of 
twenty-four  hours. 

Of  this  young  man,  his  commander  writes: 

"Sonntag's  familiar  ac(iuaintance  with  the  physical  sci- 
ences, and  his  earnest  enthusiasm  in  everything  that  apper- 
tained to  physical  research,  both  in  the  field  and  study,  made 
him  an  invaluable  aid,  while  his  genial  disposition,  and  man- 
ly qualities  gave  him  a  deep  hold  upon  my  affections.  KSimi- 
larity  of  taste  and  disposition,  equal  age,  a  common  object,  and 
a  mutual  dependence  for  companionship,  had  cemented  more 
and  more  closely  a  bond  of  friendship  which  had  its  origin  in 
the  dangers  and  fortunes  of  travel." 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THK    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD,  295 

Early  in  March,  Mr.  I)o,1j,mn  Hans,  and  Ka-lu-tu-nah  bmuuht 
u  k    10  renuuns  of  tU.  unfortunate  yonng  man  and  they  wt  e 

well.     Ihe  place  was  n.arked  by  the  chiseled  inscription: 

"AUGUST   SONNTAO. 
<lied  I)e<eniber  28,  ISfJO,  „jr„i  2S  years." 

,  nol:'^;?i'  ""'''  '^'"■'^'  ^"  *'^^'  '^"'"^'^^  Observatory,  han^s 

"l'erislie<l  in  the  ice  at  Port  Foulke,  latitude  78°  17'  14" 
north,  December  28,  18()()»  ^^'luue  <s    17   14 

Daring  the  latter  part'of  March  the  entire  paHy  were  en 

PA-LE-O-CRYS-TIC   ICE   FLOE 
weiirh  siv  hiUL.,,  ^  '*  ^^^  estimated  to 

CAPE  HAWKS, 

st::'C"'o'::.'*  ™  rr  ';"^™  "•^-"^  "'-'"«• 

-  uii^e^i  TO  n^^  upvn  the  sledge,  Hayes,  Knorr,  and  Mc- 


299 


THE  SE3ARCH   FOR  THE   NORTH    POLE; 


Donald  ImriU'HMing  thcmHolvcH  (o  tlio  hI('(Ij;o  to  a8Hi.st  MuMlogs. 

In  the  vicinity  of  ihniUl  liny  uumeroum  traceH  of  EMJiinio 
t'ncanipmcntjs  were  observed. 

On  the  inth  of  May  JenHen  became  completely  diHablcd 
thron^h  additional  injury  to  a  leg  that  had  once  been  broken. 
McDonald  was  left  to  take  care  of  him,  while  llayeM  and  Knorr 
pro(  eedcd. 

The  coaHt-line  was  now  one  lofty  rock-wall  of  Hcowling 
Hllurian  rock.  Contemplating  his  surroundings,  Hayes  writes: 
"As  the  eye  wandered  from  peak  to  peak  of  the  inountainK 
as  they  rose  one  above  the  other,  and  rested  upon  the  dark  and 
frost-d(»gra(h'd  clifTs,  and  followed  along  the  ice-foot,  and  over- 
looked the  sea,  and  saw  in  every  object  the  silent  forces  of 
nature  moving  on  through  the  gloom  of  winter  and  the  sparkle 
of  summer,  now,  as  they  had  moved  for  countless  ages,  unob- 
.  served  save  by  the  eye  of  (}od  alone,  T  felt  how  puny  indeed 
are  all  men's  works  and  elTorts;  and  when  I  sought  for  some 
token  of  living  thing,  some  track  of  wild  beast— a  fox,  or  bear, 
or  reindeer— which  had  elsewhere  always  crossed  me  on  my 
journeyings,  and  saw  nothing  but  two  feeble  men  and  our 
struggling  (h.gs,  it  seeme<l  indeed  as  if  the  Almighty  had 
frowned  upon  the  hills  and  seas." 

Finally,  on  the  19th,  Dr.  Flayes  ascended  a  diflP  eight  hun- 
dred feet  high,  overlooking  Kennedy  Channel  on  the  east  and 
a  great  bay,  or  fiord,  on  the  north.     He  says : 

"Standing  against  the  dark  sky  at  the  north,  there  was 
seen  in  dim  outline  the  white  sloping  summit  of  a  noble  head- 
land—the most  northern  known  land  npon  the  globe.  I 
judged  it  to  be  in  latitude  82°  30',  or  450  miles  from  the  North 
Pole.  Nearer,  another  bold  cape  stood  forth;  and  nearer  still 
the  headland  for  which  I  had  been  steering  my  course  the  day 
before  rose  majestically  from  the  sea,  as  if  pushing  up  into  the 
very  skies  a  lofty  mountain  peak,  upon  which  the  Winter  had 
dropped  its  diadem  of  snows.  There  was  no  land  visible  except 
the  coast  upon  which  I  stood.  The  sea  beneath  me  was  a 
mottled  sheet  of  white  and  dark  patches,  these  latter  being 
either  soft,  decaying  ice,  or  places  where  the  ice  had  wholly 


on.    LIPB    IN    THE    OREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  Uf 

Tl,..  inoHt  dintant  uortl,  point  vmible  he  uuiiumI  (^an„  Vn 

;:.';■ "" ',"."";  ""'■•'' '«"  »"'"'i  «■'»'  "'•""«""t.,i  <■«,'  uZ' 

I !"•  l-"y  ..t  ln«  feet  was  ,alle,l  affr  La.ly  Fianklin  i  .iL ! 
.-;..;....•  .'etenaau  Ki,„.„  a.u,  a.H  l.tte..  aJn'L  JV  ^ 
AH  aiwLieberllai'eH  planted  the 

STARS  AND  STRIPES, 

l>i'»i(l™  tl„.  flags  „f  v«i.i„„„  p„n.„„s  „f  ,1,^  ex„editi<.n  and  ,1., 
I>"«il-d  within  a  ..airn  the  following  reeofd-  ' 

"TI..S  l-oint    the  .n„«t  imrthern  lan.l  that  has  ever  been 

'""■' :  "•"•  viHitcd  by  ,l,e  und,.r.,iK„,.d  May  18  11  ls(i1  T, 

ooinpani....  by  «e.„.«e  P.  ICno..,.,  t,.a;.di„«  with  'a  I','      i,:" 
We  arrive,]  h,.re,  after  a  toilso.ne  nnind,  of  fortysix  lavs  f  nn 

,„„  ,■ ,'•    "'"  f'lrt'ii'i-  progress  was  stopped  bv  rot- 

"  «  and  eraeks.    Ken„e<ly  rhannel  appears  to  expand  i"t , 

"K  tl..  months  of  ,T„|y,  A„„,„t  „„j  Repte.nber,  I  go  hence  to 
my  winter  harbor,  to  ,nak,.  another  trial  to  get  hi'ngh  Smith 
.Sound  with  iny  vessel,  after  the  iee  breaks  np  this  sn^n.e,.." 

V,,rn  lo''lsn4  7""-'  "■"'"  *''"  P"™"""'  "'"-^  experience  of 
April  10,  1894,  when  m  company  with  Lieutenant  Peary  and 

"n,ra,les  Eutrikin  and  (lark,  on  the  ice  cap  of  North  Ore, 
iand  appreciate  the  feelings  of  Dr.  Hayes  wiien  he  adds! 

Ihen  our  faces  were  turned  homeward,  but  I  quit  the 
place  with  rehutance."  'la't  ine 

The  .3d  of  ,Tune  found  the  explorers  again  on  boar,l  the  ship 

Hayes  was  now  of  the  firm  ,.„„vi,.tion  that,  ,.o„l,l  he  get  tl  Li 

vessel  to  the  latitude  attaine,l  by  sledge,  during  th,.  .same   ,  m- 

;;:«;:' ;or;t's;i^  *"^  ---  ■"  '"^  --'  •«»'•'  •"-->"•  -  i- "". 

the'^lr"  ?""""'>*'''"  ""-  ''■'•""-''r  was  found  to  be  unsafe  for 
the  hazardous  nndertaking,  and  after  a  vain  attempt  to  pass 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 

through  the  ice  north  of  Cape  Isabella,  on  the  west  coast,  she 
sailed  southward  and  entered  Whale  Sound.  ' 

CAPE  ISABELLA 

is  described  by  Hayes  as  being  "a  ragged  mass  of  Plutonic  rock 
looking  as  if  it  had  been  turned  out  of  nature's  laboratory 
unfinished,  and  pushed  up  from  the  sea  while  it  was  yet  hot 
to  crack  and  crumble  to  pieces  in  the  cold  air.  Its  surface  is 
barren  to  the  last  degree;  immense  chasms  or  canyons  cross 
It  in  all  directions,  in  which  there  was  not  the  remotest  tr-ice 
of  vegetation-great  yawning  depths  with  jagged  beds  and 
crumbling  sides— sunless  as  the  cimmei'ian  caverns  of 
Averno." 

Ten  miles  south  of  the  cape  were  discovered  traces  of  a  re- 
cent Eskimo  eijcampment. 

In  Whale  Sound,  Hayes  named  various  islands,  capes,  and 
bays,  and  in  particular  Tyndall  Glacier  and  Inglefield  Gulf 

Sailing  thence,  the  "United  States"  reached  Boston  October 
21st,  1861,  having  been  absent  fifteen  and  a  half  months 

Dr.  Hayes  then  entered  the  government  service  as  a  vol- 
unteer and  was  assigned  to  duty  as  an  armv  surgeon  He 
died  in  1881,  in  the  fiftieth  year  of  his  age 


rCNKBAt  or  CATTAIN  H*t!,;  Noy.  ■»  jjtj. 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE   WORLD. 


299 


1! 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


HALL'S  FIRST  EXPEDITION. 

An  obscure  correspondent  for  a  Cincinnati  paper  and  the 
son  of  a  poor  blacksmith,  Charles  Francis  Hall  longed  to  know 
more  concerning  the  fate  or  fortune  of  Franklin  and  his  men 
as  well  as  more  concerning  the  deep  mysteries  of  the  polar 
world  He  believed  that  some  of  the  long-lost  men  were  still 
to  be  found  in  King  William's  Land. 

Divulging  his  plans  to  a  few  intimate  friends  and  admirers 
in  Cincinnati,  he  afterwards  received  aid,  indorsements,  and 
letters  of  introduction  from  such  men  as  Senator  Chase,  Gov 
ernor  Denmson,  Mayor  Bishop,  Miles  Greenwood,  and  others. 

Miortly  after  making  known  his  plans,  he  received  the  fol- 
lowing letter  from  the 

GENEROUS  FIRM 

of  Williams  &  Havens,  New  London,  Conn  • 
"Charles  Francis  Hall: 

"Dear  Sir-As  a  testimonial  of  our  personal  regard  and 

"  ml  i  "'  '"'  T  *'"  P"^P^^^^^  ^^P-"*^-'  --  will  con 
21  If  '""^T?  ''"*^*'  ^^'"*''  '^'^^''^  Pi-ovisions,  instru- 
ments, etc.,  free  of  charge,  in  the  barque  'G.orge  Henry'  to 

Northumberland  Inlet,  and  whenever  desired  we  will  give  the 
same  free  passage  home  in  our  ships." 

The  offer  was  accepted,  as  also  that  of  Mr.  G.  W.  Rogers  of 
New  London,  who  rebuilt  the  old  "Rescue"_a  smaller  boat-as 
a  consort  to  the  "George  Henry." 

In  his  preparations  Mr.  Hall  was  steadfastly  aided  bv  the 
..se  .mnsel  of  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell-i„  spite  of  "gVr  " 
ics,  limited  mPan.,  and  the  ill  success  of  previous  expeditions 

Soon  letters  of  encouragement  and  more  substantial  tokens 


IHl 


500 


THE  SEARCH  POH  T«E  NORTH  POLE; 


of  regard  began  to  pour  in.  But  funds  were  still  lacking,  and 
the  determined  Hall  presented  liis  cause  to  individuals,  to  sci- 
entific and  to  geographical  societies — in  fact  wherever  a  dollar 
or  other  encouragement  was  to  be  obtained  there  he  urged  the 
cause  of  science  and  humanity. 

Finally,  about  the  1st  of  June,  ISfiO,  both  vessels  sailed 
from  New  London,  Captain  Sydney  O.  Buddingtou,  a  veteran 
Arctic  sea  officer,  commanding.  Thirty-one  comprised  the 
number  of  persons  on  board  both  ship*,  including  Mr.  Flail  and 
an  Eskimo  interpreter  named,Kud-la-go,  who  had  accompanied 
Captain  Buddington  from  the  Cumberland  Island  region  the 
previous  season.  All  except  Mr.  Hall  were  experienced  sail- 
ors, and  for  several  days  he  alone  was  afflicted  with  sea-sick- 
ness. 

On  June  21st,  Hall  noted  the  sudden  falling  of  the  ther- 
mometer and  predicted  the  near  approach  to  an  iceberg.  The 
idea  was  laughed  at  by  the  captain,  and  an  old  sailor,  who 
maintained  that  ice  was  not  to  be  expected  so  soon.  But  Hall 
persisted  with  scientific  reason  and  soon  had  the  satisfaction 
of  beholding  a  majestic  berg  rising  150  feet  above  the  surface 
of  the  water.  Others  of  all  shapes  and  sizes  were  soon  met 
with. 

About  midnight  of  the  20th,  Mr.  Hall  observed  the  "North- 
ern Lights"— not  the  Aurora  Borealis,  an  electrical  displav, 
but 

A    BLAZE    OF    GLORY 

all  along  the  nortliern  horizon,  reflected  by  the  sun,  long  since 
set. 

The  next  morning,  the  Danish  trading-ship  "Marianne" 
was  spoken.  She  had  been  on  her  annual  voyage  to  Green- 
land and  was  now  returning  to  her  native  port.  This  was  the 
vessel,  it  will  be  remembered,  upon  which  Dr.  Kane  had  em- 
barked after  his  perilous  retreat  from  the  "Advance,"  just  as 
Lieutenant  Hartstene  arrived  for  his  relief. 

Somewhat  later,  Kud-la-go  died  of  a  severe  cold  caugiit 
while  in  Connecticut  and  was  buried  at  sea.  Mr.  Hall  cC)u- 
ducted  the  religious  services. 


ariauue' 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  301 

On  July  7tli  the  vessels  anchored  in  the  beautiful  harbor  of 
Ilolsteinberg,  Greenland,  where  Mr.  Hall  was  given  a  hearty 
welcome  by  the  kind-hearted  Danish  Govej-nor,  Mr.  Ehlbero- 
The  Governor  was  daily  expecting  the  arrival  of  his  wife  and 
child  from  Copenhagen,  when  the  news  came  that  the  vessel 
had  been  wrecked  and  his  loved  ones  lost. 

Mr.  Hall  learned  that  there  were  but  ten  Europeans  in  Hol- 
steinberg  and  about  250  in  all  Greenland.  Among  those  at 
Ilolsteinberg  were  the  pastor  and  two  school  teachers.  He 
noted  the  advancement  of  morals  and  intelligence  among  the 
natives  and  that  the  boys  and  girls  had  been  taught  to'^read 
and  write  with  remarkable  proficiency. 

The  ships  remrining  here  nearly  two  weeks  and  a  half,  the 
voyagers  attended  divine  worship,  schools,  and  dances.  Fi- 
nally, to  celebrate  the  departure  of  the  vessels,  a 

GRAND    BALL 

was  given  on  deck,  the  natives  attending  en  masse.     Before 

leaving,  the  visitors  sang  several  Danish  church  hvmns. 
Again  sailing  on  July  24th,  the  ships  were  soon  in  the  midst 

of  Baffin's  Bay,  headed  toward  Northumberland  Inl(4. 

By  the  laws  of  reflection  and  refraction,  mountains  visible 
along  the  coast  at  a  distance  of  from  seventv-tive  to  one  hun- 
dred miles,  appeared  raised  high  above  the  horizon,  below 
which,  by  reason  of  the  rotundity  of  the  earth,  tliev  were  in 
reality  concealed;  icebergs  were  lade  to  stand  as  tliouoh 
inverted  upon  their  apexes;  verdant  islands  floated  among  the 
clouds;  the  rising  moon  appeared  shattered  and  distorted 
while  the  sea  itself  fell  in  ice-burdened  swells  in  the  thus 
strangely  pictured  sky. 

On  the  8th  of  August  both  vessels  were  again  at  anchor,  in 
frnnnell  Bay,  Northumberland  Inlet,  in  companv  with  the 

Hhick  Eagle,"  a  whaling  vessel.  Captain  Allen.   "Here  were 
numerous  Eskimos  whom  Hall  found  to  be  scrupulouslv  hon- 
est.    Among  them  were  the  wife  and  little  daughter  of  Kud- 
i>go.     Both,  upon  lu  aring  of  his  death,  were  gn^atlv  -rieved 
1  oor  Kud-ia-go  thought  u  great  deal  of  his  wife  and  child,  and 


X.' 


! 


! 


H  i 

n 


302 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


!!i 


had  tilled  a  chest  with  many  bright-colored  presents  for  them. 
As  soou  as  this  little  girl,  Kim-mi-loo  by  name,  came  aboard, 
Mr.  Hall  and  Captain  Buddiugton  had  her  dressed  in  American 
costume.  Her  hair  was  combed  for  the  first  time,  and  when 
deprived  of  blubber,  moss,  and  the  hair  of  the  seal  and  the  rein- 
deer, it  fell  in  graceful  black  tresses  about  her  shoulders.  She 
was  then  washed,  after  which  a  more  beautiful  child  could  not 
be  found  anywhere.  Kosy  clieeks,  red  lips  of  exquisite  out- 
line, eyes  of  blue,  and  hair  of  jet  black— what  more  could  beau- 
ty possess? 

When  clad  in  a  red  dress  with  frills  and  furbelows,  and  pro- 
vided with  numerous  brass  finger  rings,  her  Eskimo  relatives 
laughed,  shouted,  and  jumped  about  in  great  delight. 

Another  interesting  character  was 

"BLIND  GEORGE," 

OP  Pan-loo-yah  in  the  Eskimo  language.  An  expert  with  the 
needle  he  would  seize  the  eye-end  between  the  teeth,  the  thread 
having  been  placed  upon  the  tip  of  the  tongue,  and  then  bring 
one  end  of  the  thread  so  as  to  pass  through  the  eye  of  the 
needle,  all  by  a  skillful  movement  of  the  tongue. 

The  tribe  were  very  eager  to  become  acquainted  with  the 
American  language  and  manners. 

August  17th  Hall's  ship  was  in  Nu-gum-mi-uke  Bay,  where 
she  remained  four  days,  whaling,  while  Mr.  Hall  devoted  his 
attention  personally  to  a  study  of  the  natives  and  visited  some 
of  the  islands  in  the  bay.  On  the  22d,  anchor  was  cast  in  a 
small  arm  of  Frobisher  Strait,  or  rather  Bay.  This  harbor 
was  called  niai)pel  Inlet,  in  honor  of  Mr.  Richard  H.  Chappel, 
of  New  London.  TTpon  landing,  it  was  found  that  they  were 
separated  from  the  waters  just  left  by  a  narrow  strip  of  land 
about  a  mile  wide  and  so  low  that  high  tides  would  probably 
cover  it.  Here  were  found  many  fossils.  From  Morgan's  Hiil 
a  fine  view  was  had  of  the  i  -called  Frobislier's  Strait,  a  beau- 
tiful body  of  water  sailed  upon  by  Frobisher  two  hundred 
eighty-two  years  before. 

Forty  miles  beyond  appeared  the  snow-capped  shore  named 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  303 

by  Queen  Elizabeth,  Meta  Incognita.     Later,  this  land  was  vis- 

.  ed  and  found  to  be  a  vast  glacier,  whi<h\vas  muuHl     f^'r 

M;  Henry  Grinnell.     It  was  also  ascertained  that  thi       ,    • 

.strip  of  water  was  not  a  strait,  but  a  baj  ^ 

On  August  23d  many  of  the  natives  Wsited  the  ship,  among 

lem  being  Kok-er-zhun,  the  eldest  daughter  of  Kud-la-o.; 

irere  she  learned  for  the  first  time  of  her  father's  death  aM 

uas  deeply  affected. 

On  the  24th  a  native  drew  a  chart  of  Northumberland  In- 
t.  Rear  S<,„nd,  and  contiguous  lands,  and  all  asserted  that 
'0  only  water  communication  to  Fox  Channel  was  bv  way  of 
•  ndson's  .Strait.  Six  days  later  an  island  was  visHed  u  >,m 
whuh  were  fifty  deserted  huts,  the  natives  then  living  in  snow 
Igloos.  Here  was  observed  a  sledge  having  runners  of  one 
and  a  half  inch  plank,  ten  feet  long  and  shod  with  the  jaw- 
bone of  a  whale.  "' 

A  chief  article  of  diet  was  whale  meat,  the  skin  being  espe- 
mlly  prized,  great  pieces  of  which  were  bolt«Ml  almost  whole, 
rhis  meat  is  declared  by  Hall  to  be  "as  white  and  delicious  as 
llie  breast  of  a  Thanksgiving  turkey." 

On  September  5th,  while  on  Lookout  Island,  a  piece  of  iron 
ore  weighing  nineteen  pounds  was  found.  It  was  a  relic  of 
the  Probisher  expedition. 

On  the  night  of  September  27th  a  furious  gale  bore  down 
upon  the  vessels  and  notwithstanding  that  the  anchors  were 
cast  they  were  driven  ah.ng  directly  towards  the  rocks 

The  row-boat,  Mr.  Hall's  main  dependence  for  his  future 
journey  towards  King  William's  Land,  was  instantly  de- 
stroyed, and  the  "Rescue"  left  to  pound  herself  to  pieces  upon 
•er  broadside's.  The  whaling  vessel  "Ge-'o-iam,,"  under  Cap- 
tain Tyson,  fortunately  rounded  a  point  a.  safetv  and  soon 
afterwards  secured  herself  in  winter  quarters  in  Northumber- 
land  Inlet. 

nuring  October  and  November  Mr.  Hall  carefullv  studied 
ti.eauroral  displays,  many  of  which  were  exceedingly  brilliant. 


On  the  i:UU  of  October  1 


I'lval  of  the  steamer  "True  Love"  ( 


lo  was  much  surprised  at  the  .tr 


',    Captain  Parker,  and  th 


304 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


I  1 


sailing  vessel  "Lady  Celia,"  Captain  Parker's  son.  Mr.  Hall 
visited  Captain  Parker  and  learned  that  he  was  then  sixty-niiic 
years  of  age  and  that  he  had  been  a  constant  visitor  to  the 
Arctic  regions  for  forty-flve  years.  His  vessel  was  then  a  cen- 
tury old,  having  been  built  in  Philadelphia,  and  had  taken 
part  in  many  of  the  search  expeditions. 

On  November  2d,  Mr.  Hall  was  equally  surprised  to  meet 
with  Too-koo-li-too,  an  Eskimo  woman,  dressed  in  European 
costume  and  speaking  fluently  the  English  language.  Her 
husband,  E-bier-bing,  could  also  speak  English,  but  less  read- 
ily. B(>th  had  spent  twenty  months  in  England.  Their  teni 
was  found  very  home-like  and  comfortable,  and  in  it  when  seen 
sat  Too-koo-li-too  knitting  a  pair  of  socks  for  her  husband. 

This  interesting  Eskimo  woman  had  taught  to  her  neigh- 
bors many  European  habits  and  customs.  She,  however,  com- 
plained that  many  of  the  whalers  were  bad  men,  and  in  par- 
ticular of  the  Amet-icans,  who  swore  more  and  worse  than  the 
Englishmen. 

On  the  Oth  of  December  the  "George  Henry"  was  secured 
in  the  ice  for  winter.  On  the  8th,  the  thermometer  stood  at 
zero,  and  on  the  next  day  fifteen  degrees  lower.  The  Eskimos 
now  arrived  at  the  ship  in  great  numbers  and  exchanged 
heavy  fur  garments  for  knives  and  other  useful  articles. 

On  the  10th  the  thermometer  stood  at  —20°,  the  barometer 
at  .•J0.175,  Avith  no  wind.  The  weather  did  not  seem  colder 
than  at  freezing.  The  next  day  the  thermometer  registered 
—5",  but  at  midnight  U°,  rising  during  the  day  to  21°,  tlic 
bay  becoming  almost  clear  of  ice.  Rain  fell  during  the  night, 
the  thermometer  standing  by  the  following  morning  at  82^, 
or  half  a  degree  above  the  melting  point.  The  snow  huts  of 
the  natives  vanished,  and  the  rain  prevented  them  from  catch- 
ing seals.  For  the  time  being,  destitution  prevailed  among 
these  people,  but  their  wants  were  supplied  from  the  ship.  On 
the  30th  the  thermometer  again  touched  the  zero  mark,  and 
six  days  later  28°  below,  the  bay  bring  again  frozen  over. 

About  this  time  it  was  discovered  that  the  natives  trciit 
1  hejr  sick  with  great  cruelty — seemingly  the  result  of  custom 


1]  ■ 


Mr.  Hall 
dxty-niiu' 
or  to  the 
len  a  (-(mi- 
ad  taken 

1  to  meet 
European 
ij^o.  Ilei- 
less  read- 
"heir  tent 
k'lieu  seen 
ibaud. 
er  neigli- 
'ver,  com- 
id  in  ])ai- 
than  the 

8  secured 

stood  at 

Eskimos 

schauged 

les. 

arometer 
m  colder 
eji'istered 
.  21°,  the 
he  ni<>ht, 
r  at  'A2r, 
V  hilts  of 
)m  eatch- 
'd  amonjj; 
ihip.  On 
lark,  and 
>ver. 

ves  treat 
)f  custom 


'« 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


305 


W 


I 

f- 


au(l  uul  ol"  a  dcsiie  to  torture.  VVheu  at  the  point  of  dcatli, 
the  body  is  talcen  over  tlie  slioulder  much  as  a  persou  wouM 
carry  a  guu,  aud  couveyed  to  a  sliallow  grave  dug  in  tlie  snow 
and  ice  aud  tliere  deposited,  being  covered  witli  the  material 
removed  and  witli  stones  if  at  liand. 

During  January  aud  February,  Mr.  Hall  nuide  trips  to  Cor- 
nelius (Jrinnell  Hay  and  to  Ciarli's  Harbor,  living  meanwhile 
in  native  huts  and  upon  native  diet. 

Upon  returning  to  the  ship,  lie  found  Messrs.  Hrowii  and 
Hruce  sick  of  the  scurvy,  but  soon  sent  them  to  live  willi  (he 
natives,  believing  that  a  <liet  of  fresh  meat  would  «ure  them. 
Early  in  March  a  shot  was  fired  at  a  reindeer,  but  without 
effect.  The  dogs  then  gav(>  i)ursuit,  one  of  them  returning 
somewhat  later,  covered  with  blood.  Search  was  therefore 
made  and  a  fine  deer  s(Min  found  lying  dead  with  its  jugular 
vein  and  wind-pipe  cut. 

On  the  17th,  Hrown  started  with  some  natives  to  return 
to  the  ship.  His  comi)anions  stopping  to  cache  some  provi- 
sions, he  became  irritated  at  the  delay  and,  against  every  per- 
suasion, started  on  alon(\  The  next  day  his  fi-ozen  body  was 
found  lying  beside  an  iceberg  seventeen  miles  from  the  ship. 
A  little  later,  Bruce  nearly  met  the  same  fate,  his  life  having 
been  barely  saved  by  the  utmost  exertions  of  an  Eskimo 
woman. 

From  April  22d  to  September  27th,  Mr.  Hall  was  engaged 
in  the  exploration  of  the  region  in  and  about  Frobisher's  Hay. 
At  Cooper's  Island  he  talked  with  an  Eskimo  woman  wlio 
said  that  she  had  seen  upon  Ni-o-uu-te-lik  Island,  coal,  bricks, 
and  pieces  of  timber,  and  that  when  a  little  girl,  she  had 
heard,  from  the  aged  of  her  people,  that  strange  shii)s  had  vis- 
ited these  regions  and  that  some  of  the  Eskimos  were  killed 
and  others  stolen  by  the  people  on  board  these  vessels.  She 
also  said  that  five  white  men  were  cai)tured  by  the  natives, 
hut  that  they  afterwards  built  a  large  boat  having  mas  _,  and 
sails  and  effected  their  escape. 

During  his  journeys,  Hall  observed  great  numbers  of  ducks, 


.106 


THFi:  SKAKCII    FOR  TUB  NORTH  POLE; 


nibbils,  iciiuloor,  Honis,  niul  boiirH.     On  one  h-ip  of  (on  dayi 
Uunilioii,  IiIn  pail,v  Ncciircd 

!>  Hcals  (pulHHi'H)  wclnhluK 1800  Ihg. 

1  OdU.sook  (liii-KCHl   rtciil)  woIkIiIiik ir)00  IhH. 

I  poliir  hoiir  wiUkIiIiik 1000  IhH. 


W 


TolHl  wolKliitiK 4300  Iba. 

In  .\ni»Ms<    llu»    jmrty,  wliilc  on  Oo-pnnji-nc-wiiifj;    rHlnnd, 
('!•('  jirciillv  iiiinoyod  b.v  nio.sqnilocH.     This  wjih  in  latilndo 
<{.'{",  lonjiihulc  (ir>\ 

On  \i-«>-nu-l«'-lik  Island  more  coal  was  fonnd,  ivninanls  of 
wlial  wci'o  l('f(  by  riobislicr  in  ir>7S.  On  Iron  Mouiilaiii,  lli(> 
nxks  of  wliirli  bore  an  oxidi/cd  aitpcarnin'c,  was  f(Mnid  a  line 
picco  of  livo  oak  (iniboi*,  donblloss  a  part  of  nou\o  wreck,  and 
various  I'^skinio  nionnnicntai  marks.  At  Jcnics'  Cape  were 
fonnd  n'niarkably  line  ones,  one  of  them  beinj;  six  feet  hiul 
and  in  (ho  sliapc  of  a  cross.  On  the  summit  of  th 
was  fou'id  a  jiical  <|uanlity  of  limestone. 


Ii 


e  mountain 


Still  later,  a  native  was  met   who  had  seen,  when  a  Ix 


)V 


pieces  of  iron,  bri(dv,  and  coal.     At  ( 
shells  and  fossils. 


'ape  Stevens  were  founil 


On  Aujiiist  2:{d  a  frcsli  water  stream  was  discovered,  and 
named  Sylvia  (Jrinmdl  Kiver.  It  was  fairly  alive  with  salmon, 
and  reindeer  abounded  in  the  vicinity. 

A  week  later  Mali  hnnled  ui)on  and  nansed  Bishop's  Island, 
from  whicdi  could  be  seen  the  entire  hea<l  of  the  bay,  foiirt^'cn 
miles  wide  and  a  re<>ion  of  sin<;ular  beauty.  It  w;js  therefore 
v(>ry  apiu'opriately  named  in  honor  of  Hall's  friend,  (Sreen- 
wood   Land.      In    this    re«>ion,  too,  was  <llscovered    Jorda 


in 


ver,  on  on<'  side  of  which  was  a  limestone  mount  half 


US 


a  nnle 


lonj;-,  one  hundred  feet  hi«,di,  and  containinj,^  marine  fossil.^ 

On  Septend>er  2()t]i,  when  .journ(>yln«>-  toward  head(iuariers, 
and  ujton  nisli(.i)'s  Isr  ml,  one  of  the  Eskimos  thou^rhf  ||,;,( 
he  had  discovered  o(dd,  but  the  specimen  was  found  to  be 
spurious.  Doubtless  the  lesson  of  Frobisher's  day  was  re- 
called by  Mr.  Hall  on  this  occasion  and  made  him  duly  cam  ions. 
A  trench  one  hundred  and  ten  feet  long  and  sloping  from 


iiioiiiitaiu 


OR.     LIFE    IN    TIIIO    (JIUOAT    WHITE     WORU, 


807 


tlM'  surfnn.  of  a   ,<.,„   u>  n  <l(.pM.  of  fwouOMIv.  (Vh   ,n   fl.. 


ujil.T'N  <mIk.',  wjin  jiIko  foiin.l,  in  uliicl,,  H,,.  |.:„| 


Imd  iM'cri  Imia  by  vvlill 


('  I 


kiiiioHHni*!,  a  Nliip 


llicniiiiNof  II  Htoiw  I 


'H'H.     On  (lir  (o|)(,f  (liiH  iHlan<l 


r«'('l  in  (lianictcr 


loiiHc,  »<'iiu'nt(Ml  Willi  Jiii,,..     It 


Jiml  <oal(^|  Ihirli  will,  nioHH.     Hani  I 


WI'I'C 


WJIM  twelve 


Noi'l  of  Hlonc  brcaNlwork  and  a   nil 


»y  waH  a 


indinilin^r  (i„.  ^y,„.|.  ^,j. 


Near  (^apc  Tik-k 


HODIC    of    I'^IdbiHlu'l' 


piN'  of  HloncK,  all  doi'htl 


H  men. 


culcn  and  vvcij^hj,,^.  fjfi 


•><»"  was  jiicked  np  a  pirc,.  of 


<la 


.V  iiiorc  coul  WHH  found,  and 


<'('n  or  t\v(.nt.v  I'oundH.     On  jl 


!('HK 


H'on,  Hmo- 


K'  next 


jiiioIImm*  depoNif,    uaw  d 
K»'ass(.<,  shnibH,   and    i 


iHrovrn'd,  lH>n«>a(l 


on  Ni-o-niMc-lik   Island  .slill 


)    iin    ov( 


land 


nOHH«'H. 


II 


riiVi)wih  of 


niK  place  of  Fro|,iH|„.,..      |{,.Hi,h.N    (I 


ill    believed    tliin   to  Im'   tli 


pieee  of  iron  vveij.|iin«-  tweni 
Nliape,  fni^inentNof  tile,  d 
H.V  September  27tli  Hall 


X'He    rcli.H,  another 
.y  ponndH  and  Henii-Nplicrical  in 


<•.,  were  found 


H 
kii 


en 


r.v,"  the  enKiiiiif;  winter  b« 
and  on  the  ship. 


waw  apt  in  on  board  the  "(} 


eor^e 


DON 


'"K  -spoilt  living  among  th,.  j 


;k- 


On  the  following  Int.  of  Anril 


his  explorations,  th 


pHI,  Mr.  Hall 


'liat  of  Orinnell  (Jl 
<lred  miles  in  lengtl 


,  the  most  notable  localil 


<»nce  more  began 


iKier,  which  was  estimated  to  b 


.V  investig;if«Ml  Ix'ing 


«'  one  hiin- 


lOarl 


.V  in  June  a.  piece  of  brick  and 


tallied  from  an  lOsI 


a  mnsket  ball  w 


ore  ob- 


foro  his  people  knew  any  thing  of  th 


kinio,  who  said  that  the  ball  was  frmnd  bt 


Mr.  Mall's  expedition  returned  to  Xew  I 


e  UHe  of  firearms. 


l'{,  lS(;2,aft 


II 


,  after  an  absence  (tftw 


o  was  acconipani<'d   bv   K-bier-1 


london,  Sept^'mi 
o  years,  three  ami  a  half  month. 


)er 


celebrated  "Joe"  and  "II 


)ing  and  Too-koo-li-too,  the 


aunah"of  his  after  voyageH 


30S 


THW  BEAUCil    FOU    IIIIJ   NOUTII   I'OLB; 


CIIAPTEK   XXXII. 


HALL'S    SICCOND    EXPEDITION. 


Ilanlly  hi»<l  Iho^CJi'or^c  Ilciiry"  rcdiiiuMl  lliaii  plaiiH  for  Mr. 
IliiM's  second  ('xpcdili.di  bccaiiu'  public  properly. 

Ifiiniliij;  with  iiileiise  (h'sire  foi-  fiirtiu'i-  exploration,  lie 
llius  addresses  Mr.  ('is(,  a  Saint  liOiiis  friend: 

"M.v  third  voyaj;e  to  the  Arctic  regions  will  be  (I).  V.)  for 
discovery,  to  the  northern  axis  of  the  j^reat  globe."  This  was 
ov<'n  befoi-e  the  second  voyage  had  be<'n  undertaken,  and  illus- 
trates the  far-reaching  purpose  of  this  grand  man.  "I>,  V.," 
l>eo  volente,  or  by  the  will  of  (}(mI,  he  sayn,  an<l  enters  upon 
the  great  and  important  undertaking  with  a  tirm  reliance 
upon  a  superhuman  iM»wer  for  guidance.     With 

UNP^LAGOING    ZEAL 

he  persevered  in  raising  the  n(>cessary  funds  until,  on  June 
'MHh,  1S(»4,  his  little  party  sailed  from  New  London,  on  the 
bark  "Monticello,"  free  transiMU'tation  being  furnished  the  ex- 
plorers by  the  owner  of  the  vessel,  Mr.  R.  II.  Chappell. 

On  the  2(Hh  of  August,  Mr.  Hall  was  landed  with  his  stores 
on  Depot  Island,  to  the  southwest  of  the  southern  entrance  to 
K(»e's  Welcome.  A  little  later,  Mr.  Hall,  Joe,  Hannah,  and  a 
white  man  hired  from  the  whaler,  arrived  at  Whale  Point,  on 
the  west  coast  of  the  Welcome.  Here  began  the  long  resi- 
dence among  tlu'  natives.  Hall  assl<luously  applying  himself 
to  their  customs,  language,  and  traditions.  He  soon  learned 
that  some  of  Franklin's  party  had  a  conflict  with  a  tribe  <»f 
hostile  Indians,  and  that  later  all  the  whites,  except  Captain 
(^rozier  and  three  companions,  starved.  When  first  seen, 
"Crozier  was  thin,  but  his  three  companions  were  very  fat." 


II H  for  Mr. 

•atlon,  lie 

I).  V.)  f(.i- 
TliiK  was 
and  illus- 

"I>.  v.," 
h'l's  upon 

reliance 


on  Jnno 

II,  on  the 
'd  the  ox- 


liis  slorcH 
trance  to 
ill,  and  a 
Point,  on 
on}^  rosi- 
;•  liinisolf 
I  loarnod 
tribe  of 
Captain 
•st  S(»on, 
ery  fat." 


II 


310 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


spent  in  the  exploration  of  Kepulso  Bay,  his  party  subsisting,' 
meanv/hile  by  himtiug  and  salmon  flshinj^.  A  whale  was  also 
killed,  the  bone  of  which  later  became  a  source  of  considerable 
profit  and  assisted  in  defraying  the  expenses  of  the  expedition. 
During  the  winter  a  number  of  whaling  vessels  remained  in 
the  bay,  and  Hall  held  frequent  intercourse  with  them.  From 
them  he  hired  five  men  to  assist  him  in  his  future  work. 

During  the  spring  of  18G7  he  made  a  sledge  journey  to 
Ig-loo-lik,  where  he  spent  a  month  in  surveying  the  region 
about  Parry's  winter  quarters  of  1821-2-3.  He  also  secured 
a  number  of  dogs  from  the  natives. 

On  the  23d  of  March,  1868,  with  Joe,  Hannah,  and  a  white 
companion,  he  again    started  on    a  journey,  proceeding    by 
nearly  the  route  previously  traveled.     In  latitude  68°  45',  lon- 
gitude 82°,  he  discovered  a  lake  about  twenty-five  miles  in 
length.     In    it  were  found    several    species  of  fish.     Among 
these  Avere  salmon,  some  of  which  measured  six  feet  in  length. 
Advancing  to  a  point  on  the  mainland  almost  due  west 
from  Igloo-lik,  he  struck  the  mouth  of  Crozier  Kiver.     Ascend- 
ing this  stream  he  found  it  to  be  an  outlet  of  a  lake  about  fifty 
miles  in  length  and  running  parallel  with  the  Fury  and  Heda 
Strait.     He  applied  to  it  the  name  of  Grinnell.     At  the  west- 
ern end  of  this  lake  was  discovered  another  outlet,  which, 
flowing  westward,  entities  into  the  Oulf  of  Boothia  near  the 
west  end  of  the  strait.     Upon  this  stream  Hall  gratefully  be- 
stowed the  name  of  his  accomplished  friend  and  admirer,  Mr. 
J.  Carson  Brevoort,  president  of  the  Long  Island  Historical 
Society. 

Following  the  coast  south  from  the  mouth  of  this  river  to 
Cape  Crozier  he  came  upon  the  monument  which  the  natives 
had  told  him  had  been  erected  by  some  white  men.  Dee]) 
snow  prevented  his  searching  for  records  and  he  therefore 
again  turned  northward,  carefully  surveying  the  coast  to  t\w 
entrance  to  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait.  This  part  of  the  coast 
had  never  before  been  explored  and  its  delineation  at  this 
time  may  be  said  to  have  completed  the  mapping  of  the  north 
coast-line  of  the  iimerican  mainland. 


II  ( 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE     GREAT    WHITE     WORLD.  3U 

Passing  thenc-e  to  (Hfloid  Kiver,  to  the  northeast  of  the 
ea^st^entrance  t<,  the  strait,  other  relies  of  white  men  were 

Ketiirning  to  headquarters  towards  the  dose  of  June  Hall 
spent    he  remainder  of  the  summer  in  laving  in  sunpl  ;«  for 
^le  ollowmg  ,ear,  and  in  making  surveys  arcmnd  Lycm's  Inlet 
By  this  means  Parry's  chart  was  corrected  and  a  new  iXt' 
placed  upon  the  map.  *^^ 

of  whom"Th?' '"''''""  ""'"'  'P'"*  ""'  "^""^  ^-^'"""S'  the  Eskimos, 
0  Avhom  there  were  at  least  one  hundred  twentv-two  in 
he  encampment.  Food  was  plentiful,  and  Hall  appears 
have  been  in  a  happy  and  resolute  frame  of  mind,  notwith- 
standing he  white  men  had  declined  to  renew  their  term  of 
service  with  him.     He  writes: 

"February  16,  18fi9.-I  must  (Deo  volente)  <lo  up  all  mv 
work  for  which  I  came  into  this  country  this  spring  and  coni- 
ing  summer,  for  I  long  to  return  to  America,  to  ;repare  at 
once  for  my  expedition  to  the  North  Pole.  Night  and  dav,  day 
and  night  weeks,  months  and  years,  find  my  heart  and  pur- 
poses fixed  without  a  shadow  of  wavering,  on  making  that 
voyage.     x\Iay  Heaven  spare  my  life  to  perform  it " 

Again  following  the  chain  of  lakes  to  Committ(>e  liav  he 
arrived  on  the  2d  of  April  near  (^ape  Weynton,  where  he  f<,und 
lis  cache  undisturbed,  but  some  of  the  lu-ovisions  <lamage<l 
from  exposure. 

A  week  later  he  reached  the  ice  of  Pelly  Hay.  Here  the 
natives  showed  him  many  articles  belonging  to  the  Franklin 
expedition.  "»»>iiu 

Traveling  thence  almost  due  west  he  was  fortunate  in  kill- 
ing musk-oxen  and  reindeer,  and  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of 
K.ng  William's  Land  about  the  1st  of  May.  Here  ho  found 
other  relics  of  the  Franklin  party  and  learncl  from  the  Fski- 
nms  that  one  of  Franklin's  ships  had  been  aband<med  and  that 
.  drif  ed  S(,uthward  to  O'Keilly's  Island,  in  Wilmot  and 
l^rampton.Ray,  off  the  west  .-oast  of  Adelaide  Peninsula,  where 
It  was  VMsited  by  sonu^  of  the  natives,  who  were  convinced  that 
.some  white  men  had  passed  a  winter  in  the  ship  at  that  place 


312 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


From  the  wreck  the  natives  had  obtained  a  large  quantity  of 
wood,  and,  upon  breaking  into  the  cabin  of  the  ship  had  there 
found  the  body  of  a  very  hirge  man— dead.  The  ship  was 
afterwards  broken  up  by  the  ice,  and  sank. 

Hail  became  convinced  that  he  knew  where  were  to  be 
found  the  bodies  of  seventy-nine  of  the  unfortunate  men,  and 
accordingly  visited  Todd's  Island,  and  the  shores  of  King  Wil- 
liam's Land. 

He  succeeded  in  finding  many  relics  and  human  bones  in 
several  places.  One  skeleton  was  found  entire,  and  this.  Hall 
brought  home  and  placed  in  the  custody  of  an  English  official. 
Over  the  remains  of  the  other  bodies  he  erected  monuments, 
and  fired  salutes  in  their  memory. 

The  Eskimos  of  Shepherd's  Ray  reported  that  they  had 
seen  Crozier  and  a  party  of  forty-five  men  just  above  Cape 
Ilerschel  in  July,  1848;  that  to  the  whites  they  gave  meat; 
that  they  erected  a  tent  in  which  they  lay  down  to  sleep;  that 
when  the  white  men  were  yet  asleep  the  natives  departed; 
and  that  in  the  following  spring  all  the  dead  bodies  of  the  men 
except  that  of  Crozier  Avere  found. 

Hall  then  returned  to  headquarters,  killing  on  the  way, 
two  seals,  eighteen  reindeer,  and  seventy-nine  musk-oxen. 

On  tlu^  2()tli  of  August,  he  embarked  on  the  whaler  "Ansell 
Cribbs,"  Captain  Fisher,  and  arrived  at  New  Bedford  just  n 
month  later.  lie  was  accompanied  by  Joe,  Hannah,  and  their 
little  adopted  daughter.  Free  transportation  was  provided 
by  Mr.  J.  Bourns,  Jr.,  the  proprietor  of  the  vessel. 


OK,    LIKE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD, 


313 


CHAPTER   XXXIII. 


GERMAN   EXPEDITIONS. 

Not  to  Aniom-an«  „,„■  to  Eug\mh:mu  aloue  has  the  »ubjoct 
of  ,«.Ia.-  .-esearch  been  of  absorbing  interest.  With  .hararter 
.»t.c  euthumasm  and  patriotic  devotion  tlie  second  Oern  ,  , 
ex„editi,,u  to  the  east  coast  of  Greenland  .^^^^Z 
e.  resentatives  of  her  scientific  devotees.  This  wL  i  ,  Lli 
■.My  upon  the  return  of  the  preliminary  vovage  of  "a  ta  , 
^rS^'"  ""•'    "^-^^—.t^e  e;.iU'«r: 

An  appeal  for  funds  and  donations  having  been  made  to 
various  towns  of  the  Fatherland,  liberal  res;o„ses  were  a 
'Z,T""f.^'  """^  '■'"-'i-tely  connected  with  the  or 

Ltted.     ^        '  """'^  '"■"^■'^'  """"*''  "«■"  «"-«^f»iiy  ^e- 

Even  the  King  of  Prussia  showed  a  warn,  personal  ai.i.re- 
"at,o„  of  the  efforts  of  his  subjects  in  the  .natter  of  p„  e'^  . 
ernes  and  witnessed  its  departure  from  Itreinerhavc  ,  ,m  t  ,e 
>M,,>t  June  18B9,  in  a  manner  at  once  indicative  of  a  great 
mind  and  a  kind  heart.  '' 

The  expedition  vessels  were  two— the  "(iermania  "  named 
«  .th  just  pride  after  the  Fatherland,  and  the  "llansa" 

)octors  Petermann  and  Breusing  assisted  greatlv  in  the 

perfections  of  all  plans  pertaining  to  the  .ontemplated  vova^e 

<aptmn  karl  Koldewey,  assisted    by    Lieutenant   j'uih,; 

ve  ,  were  the  very  able  chief  officers,  while  I>i-.  Karl  Bur^ 

•    ;.  f  opeland   an  Englishman  <,f  Oernian  education,  an, 

"'.     iiiish   ship's  surgeon,  together  with  Li..,itena„i  Paver 

constituted  the  scientific  corps  on  board  the  "Germauia."    On 


314 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


i 


board  the  "llaiisa,"  Dr.  BucliIioKz,  wurj-oon,  and  Dr.  CJns- 
tavus  Laubo,  of  Vioima,  represented  the  departments  of  elli- 
nolooy,  antlirojwlojjfy,  and  zoiilogy. 

Tlie  vessels  kept  in  conipan.v  till  Jan  Ma.yeu  Island  was 
pass(Ml.     At  length,  on  the  15th  of  Jnly,  the 

GREAT    ICE  BARRIER 

off  the  (>ast  coast  of  Greenland  was  approached.     Says  Kol- 
dewey : 

"Nearer  and  nearer  comes  the  rushing  noise.  Every  man 
is  on  deck;  when,  as  with  the  touch  of  a  magic  wand,  the  mis( 
<livides,  and  a  few  hundred  yards  before  us  lies  the  ice,  in 
long  lines,  like  a  deep  indented  rocky  coast;  with  walls  glitter- 
ing bine,  in  the  sun,  and  the  foaming  waves  mounting  high, 
with  the  top  covered  with  blinding  white  snow.  The  eyes^)f 
all  rested  with  amazement  on  this  grand  panorama;  it  was  a 
glorious  but  serious  moment,  stirred  as  we  were  by  new 
thoughts  and  feelings,  by  hopes  and  doubts,  by  bold  and  far- 
reaching  expectations." 

The  ships  having  become  separated  came  again  together 
on  the  ISth,  but,  owing  to  a  misunderstanding  of  signals,  soon 
parted  company  never  again  to  meet. 

The  "Uausa"  experienced  good  weather  till  the  10th  of 
August,  but,  four  days  later,  became  com])letely  beset.  Fi- 
nally, land  was  seen  ahead  at  the  distance  of  about  thirty-tive 
miles,  and  a  boat  journey  thither  over  the  ice  was  contem- 
plated. 

At  length,  on  the  19th  of  Octob'ei',  in  latitude  71°,  in  an- 
ticipation of  being  compelled  to  abandon  the  "Hansa,"  all  the 
articles  of  clothing,  instruments,  journals,  fuel,  i)rovisions, 
medicines,  etc.,  were  deposite.l  upon  the  ice-floe.  A  house  was 
constructed  of  coal,  and  the  shii)'s  routine  of  daily  life  begun. 

An  occasional  walrus  was  slain  and  the  meat  eaten  to'^pre- 
vent  scurvy,  of  which,  however,  not  a  trace  was  discernible. 

SAD    CHANGES 

overtook  the  party  in  January.     "On  the  11th    there    were 
heavy  storms  from  the  northeast,  with  driving  snow.    At  six 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  315 

in  the  niorning  Hilderbrandt,  who  happened  to  have  the  watrh 
burst  in  with  the  alarm,  'All  hands  turn  out!'    A„  iudescr  b-  ' 
bio  tumult  was  heard  outside.     With  furs  and  knapsacks  atl' 
nished  out      Hut  the  outer  entrance  was  snowed  \.p,  so  t!I 
i^iun  the  outside  quickl.v  we  broke  through  the  snow  roof  of 
the  front  hall.     The  tumult  of  the  elenfents  whil  met  „ 
there   was   beyond   anything   we   had   already   experiencetl 
Scarcely  able  to  leave  the  spot,  we  stood  huddled  together  fm^ 
protection  from  the  bad  weather.     Suddenly  we  hea^d,  nVater 
on  the  tloe  close  by!'     The  floe  surrouuding  us  spill  up;    a 
heavy  sea  arose.     Our  field  began  again  to  break  up,  on  all 
sides.     On  the  spot  between  our  house  and  the  piled  up  store 
of  wood,  which  was  about  twenty-five  paces  distant,  there 
suddenly  opened  a  large  gap.     Washed  by  the  pow(M'ful  waves 
It  seem  Hi  as  if  the  piece  just  broken  ofY  was  about  to  fall 
upon  us.     *     *     *     We  bade  each  other  go,>d-bye  with  a  faiv- 
well  shake  of  the  hand,  for  the  next  moment  we  might  <>„ 
down.     Deep  despondency  had  taken    hold  <,f  „nr   scientific 
friends;  the  crew  were  quiet,  but  desperate.     It  was  a  miracle 
tliat  just  that  part  of  the  floe  on  which  we  stood  should,  from 
its  soundness,  hold  together."    • 

The  house  was  utterly  demolished  and  obliged  them  to 
construct  a  new  one. 

Thus  they  continued  to  drift,  the  1st  of  Mav,  1870,  finding 
them  in  latitude  61°,  about  seven  hundred  miles  south  of  the 
point  where  the  "ITansa"  was  abandoned.  A  n.onth  later, 
they  arrived  upon  a  small  island  called  Il-lu-id-lek,  upon  which 
they  hoped  to  find  the  descendants  of  the  Eskimos  mentioned 
as  residing  there  by  the  old  voyager  Graah.  T'leir  search, 
however,  was  in  vain. 

Animal  life  there  was  scarce  and  shy.  Finally,  oj)en  water 
becoming  more  prevalent,  they  took  to  the  boat  and  made  for 
Frederichstahl,  the  nearest  Danish  port  on  the  soutliwest 
coast  of  Greenland.  Here,  on  the  lath  of  June,  Uiey  were 
welcomed  by  their  brethren,  the  open-hearted,  self-sacrificing 
(Jerman  missionaries  of  the  Moravian  brotherhood. 


316 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


From  this  poiut  they  returned  to  Germany,  arriving  there 
via  Copeuhnovn  ou  the  'Sd  of  September. 

Meanwhile,  the  "Uermania"  ])ursue(l  a  thrilling,  yet  suc- 
eessful  career.     She  had  searched  in  vain  for  the  "Uansa,"  but 
had  met  with  a  whaling  vessel,  the  "Bie-nen-korb,"  of  Bremer- 
haven,  by  which  letters  were  dispatched  home.     "On  her  deck 
eontined  in  a  large  cage,  was  a  bear  and  her  two  cibs-   for- 
tunately for  them,  on  board  a  whaler  they  were  n(»t  likelv  to 
want  for  food.     One  would  think  that  a  creature  so  powerful 
and  active  could  never  be  taken  alive,  but  on  its  hunting  ex- 
peditums  anu)ng  the  drift-ice,  it  frequently  trusts  itself  to  the 
water,  and  here,  in  spite  of  .its  endurance,  man  is  more  active 
and  clever,  and  with  a  well-managed  boat,  a  luckv  cast  of  the 
noosi-  generally  falls  ou  the  neck  of  the  swimuiing  bear,  when 
half-dragged  and  half-swimming,  he  is  hoisted  (»n  deck  like  any 
other  aninuil,  the  noose  around  its  neck  being  a  guarantee  for 
Its  good  bciiavior.   ,  On  their  return  they  are  generally  sold 
to  some  menagerie  or  zoological  garden,  the  price  of  a  full- 
grown  bear  being  100  thalers  (75  American  dollars)." 

Proceeding,  the  "Germania"  was  headed  much  of  the  time 
against  the  strong  northwest  winds.  These  were  varied  bv 
winds  from  the  east,  which  drove  the  ice  together  upon  thi 
shore.  Thus  was  her  progress  greatly  retarded,  and  not  until 
August  5th  was  her  gallant  crew  able  to  plant  the  flag  of  Ger- 
many upon  the  East  Greenland  shore.  This  was  upon  one 
of  the  Pendulum  Islands,  visited  by  Clavering  and  Sabine,  in 

To  the  south  of  her  position  lay  Sabine  Island,  and  far  to 
the  north,  Shannon  Island.  Both  were  ice  locked  and  farther 
progress  could  not  be  made  that  season. 

WINTER    QUARTERS 

were  therefore  established  on  Sabine  Island.     Thence  research 

was  conducted  by  sledge  during  their  imprisonment  in  the  ice. 

The  first  of  these  exploring  parties  left  the  ship  on  the 

14th  of  September.    The  sledge  was  drawn  by  Captain  Kol- 


OR.    LIFp:    in    the  -great    white    world.  817 

dewej   Lieutenant  Payer,  Trauwitz,  Krauscbner,  Kleutzner 

"Tlie  HJi„re  of  the  fiord  was  surrounded  bv  hpmf  ifni 

11.0  south  rose  icJcrownLlrm.r  f      '"^  vegetation;   to 

II  -4.  T^      ;  trownea  rocks,  the  highest  of  which  rwo  win 

iMit  this  time  we  withstood  the  dZveLlL  ,  ""'"'""' 

frjo-htenprl    o«-.iv    k       i      .-  ^     ^^^'^^^    "t^"'"'  "«    we 

Ugh.    Besides  this  he^ound  "  ""'"■*''  '^^' 

A   BED   OP   COAL 

alternating  with  strata  of  sandstone     Still  i.,f 
r-sits  of  the  carboniferous  age  w  r"„of .    ,  ^  H^  "  '" 
tities,  and  thus  an  important  factor  in  tlofi  /         ?'  '^"''"" 
I^-t  Greenland  wa.  iLe  Uno:^  The'^i^';;:,':;:;'?!;" 
gether  one  hundred  thirty-three  miles  ^*"" 

The  only  traces  of  natives  found  were  a  few  skeletons  and 

r"alle7rir^^  T^  "^'"'^""^  '^'^^'^  ^l^e^TZ^t 
recalled,  Clavering  had  seen  Eskimos  in  1823 

thpTi'h  '^7'^'^'""  ""*  b^'"S  supplied  with  d;>gs  and  reindeer 
Zrere  :  ""T^^  ''"'  investigating  the  regions  wa  "ry 
r.L  ;  f  ^^^^*^^^^^««'  «^veral  degrees  of  the  east  coast  S 
Greenland  were  accurately  mapped. 

The  journeys  made  were  varied  almost  constantly  by  thrill- 

21 


318 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


iuj?  expt'iieiueH  with  tli(«  auimal  life  of  the  North,  this  beinj; 
ospeeially  the  case  vvitli 

HUGE  POLAR  BEARS. 

All  iucidt'ut  in  which  Dr.  Itorgen  iioarly  lost  his  life  is  thus 
(Ietail(Mi  b,v  Liculcuaiit  Payer: 

"We  were  sittiuj;,  fortunatel.y  silent,  in  the  cabin,  wlien 
Koldewey  suddenly  heard  a  faint  cry  for  help.  We  all  hur- 
riedly tumbled  up  the  companion-ladder  to  the  deck,  when  an 
exclamation  from  Korgen,  *A  bear  is  carrying  me  otT,'  struck 
painfully  on  our  ears. 

"It  was  quite  <lark;  we  could  scarcely  see  anything,  but  we 
made  directly  for  the  quarter  whence  the  cry  proceeded,  armed 
Avith  poles,  weapons,  etc.,  over  hummocks  and  drifts,  when  an 
alarm  shot  which  we  fired  into  the  air  seemed  to  make  some 
impression,  as  the  bear  dropi)ed  his  prey,  and  ran  f(»rward  a 
few  paces.  He  turned  again,  however,  dragging  his  victim 
over  the  broken  shore-ice,  close  to  a  field  which  stretched  in  a 
southerly  direction.  All  depended  upon  our  coming  ui)  with 
him  before  he  should  reach  this  field,  as  he  would  carry  hiw 
prey  over  the  open  plain  with  the  speed  of  a  horse,  and  thus 
escape.  We  succeeded.  The  bear  turned  upon  us  for  a  mo- 
ment, and  then,  scared  by  our  continuous  fire,  let  fall  his  prey. 

"^Ve  lifted  our  poor  comrade  upon  the  ice  to  bear  him  to 
his  cabin,  a  task  which  was  rendered  difficult  by  the  slippery 
and  uneven  surface  of  the  ice.  But  after  w*'  had  gone  a  little 
way,  Bcirgen  implored  us  to  make  as  much  haste  as  possible. 
On  procuring  a  light  the  coldest  nature  would  have  been 
f.hocked  by  the  spectacle  which  poor  Borgen  presented.  The 
bear  had  torn  his  scalp  i  i  several  places,  and  he  had  received 
!  vvernl  injuries  in  other  parts  of  his  body.  His  clothes  and 
l.nir  Avere  saturated  with  blood.  We  improvised  a  couch  for 
liim  in  the  rear  of  our  own  cabin,  as  his  own  was  not  large 
enough. 

"The  first  oi)erati(m  was  performed  upon  him  on  the  cabin 
table.  And  liere  we  may  briefly  notice  the  singular  fact  that, 
although  he  had  been  carried  more  than  one  hundred  paces 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THK    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  310 

uidi  hlH  Skull  almost  laid  baro,  at  a  tempera tuir  <,f  ~v,i' 
l'^'»'>'<'"lnMt,  ins  scalp  healed  so  perfectly  that  uot  a  portion 
was  missing." 

With  characteristic  zeal  the  scientific  work  was  prosecuted 
l.v  the  (.erman  scholars.  Actual  contact  with  the  land  an<l 
s(..  Iife.aftorded  opportunities  of  Kvneralizinj;  and  particular- 
vMu;^  upon  tho  character,  habits,  and  conditi.ms  of  Northern 
.inimation. 

In  the  hunt,  however,  great  danger  <,ften  atten.led  their 
••m.r  s.     Thus  IS  described  an  encounter  with  the  walrus: 

if  any  creature  deserves  the  name  of  nnmster,  it  is  the  wal- 
nis.  It  IS  from  ni.u>  feet  six  inches  to  sixt(U'n  feet  six  inches 
"'  l^'ngth  weighs  about  two  thousund  pounds,  and  its  skin  is 
n.ree  and  a  half  in.hes  thick  (a  sort  of  massive  coat  of  n.ail), 
with  large  eye,  and  a  head  of  infinite  ugliness. 

"Should  one  of  these  im.nsters  see  a  boat,  it  raises  its(.|f 
astonished,-  above  the  surface,  utters  at  once  a  crv  of  alarm,' 
swimming  toward  it  as  quickly  as  possible.  This  Vail  brings 
up  others,  awakens  the  sleepers  which  the  boat  lia<l  carefully 
avoided,  and  in  a  short  time  the  vessel  is  followed  bv  a  numbe'r 
of  these  monsters,  blustering  in  apparent  or  real 'fury  in  all 
their  hideousness. 

"The  creatures  may  possibly  be  only  jictu.ited  bv  curiositv 
but  their  manner  of  showing  it  is  so  ill-chosen  timt  one  feels' 
obliged  to  act  on  the  defensive.  The  bellowing,  jerking  and 
diving  herd  is  now  but  a  short  distance  fr(mi  the  boat.  The 
first  shot  strikes,  thus  Inflaming  their  wrath,  and  now  begins 
a  wild  fight,  in  which  some  of  the  black  sphinxes  are  struck 
with  axes  on  the  flippers  with  which  they  threaten  to  over- 
turn the  boat." 

Once  on  the  ice,  however,  the  unwieldy  monster  is  easilv 
managed. 

On  the  1st  of  July  the  "(Jermania"  became  free  of  i,(>  and 
affer  an  examination  of  Shannon  Island,  directed  her  course 
Homeward,  arriving  once  more  in  the  joyous  Fatherland,  after 
a  voyage  of  but  three  weeks,  ou  the  11th  otSeptember,  1870 


320 


THE  SEARCH  FOR   THE 'NOUTll    I'OLE; 


CIlAI'TIOli    XXXIV. 


r 


HALL'S  LAST  X-OVAur:.  -HIS  nF..VriI.— MIRACl'LOUS 
PRESEKVAriOX  OF  LII-E. 


Willi  feelings  of  iiifcniiinojcjl  son 


(urn  (o  ('iii)tain  Hall's  iliini  ('xpcdition. 


ow  juid  i)l('jisiii'('  we  now 


('poll  lii(>  rcdiiii  from  hi 


s  socoiul  sojoiini  widiiii  (he  Aicli 


IIS 


Ol 


r('j>ioiis  lliill  labored  for  iiioiiMis  in  anotlicr  piojcci  for  nnnv 
extended  exi»i(;i'ations.     Tlie  following--  extnu  Is  illiislrale  1 
purpose  of  mind  and  heart: 

Kcplviiiji  lo  Mr.  A.  H.  -fohnson,  presideiil  of  llie  liamilt 
Connly  (O.uo)  Teachers'  Inslitnte,  aceeiilinji  an  invilalion  lo 
leclnrelx'forelhe  Inslilnte,  lie  wriles: 

*^Mtiionj»h  the  primary  object  of  my  voyaj^e  to  Uie  Norlli 
lias  not  been  for  <>('o<,M'aphy,  yel  F  have  been  eiiabh^I  to  make 
considerable  advance  in  jivojiraphical  <lis( overies.     There  is  n 


jreat  sad  blot  npon  I  he  jiresent  aji'e,  which  onj^ht  to  1 
ont,  and  this  is  Ihe  blank  on  our  maps  and  artilicial  olobcs 
from  about  the  parallel  of  .sir  north  up  to  the  N^n-lli  Pole.    I 
for  one,  hanjjf  my  head  in  shame,  when  I  think  h 
sands  of  years  a^o  it  was  thai  (J()d 


H'  wiped 


o\v  nianv  I  linn- 


jjfsive  to  man  this  beaulifiil 
world— the  whole  of  it— lo  subdue,  and  yet  that  part  of  it 
which  must  be  most  inte-  eslin<>  and  jj^lurious,  al  least  so  lo  me, 
remains  as  unknown  to  iis  as  thouj;li  il  had  never  been  (  reated. 


Shoilly,  I  expect  lo  ai)ply  l<.  our  (lovernnieiil  f 


Slid,  feelinji  that  thedav  h 


or 


IS  come  when  the  «»reat  problem  of 


li-cs  on  ajies  must  b<'  s«dved  nnd<M'  the  Stars  and  Strii)es. 
On  the  8tb  of  March,  1870,  he  thus  addresses  Mr.  <  Jrinuell: 


S  2. 
2.5 


-    -  ^ 

p  ft 


a  N, 


00 
w 


or 
u 

■1 


O  <n 

oa 


r 

■  "1 

r° 

1? 

ci'Lons 

ining  Greely 
reely,"  Lady 

lire  we  now 

7« 

1  the  Arclic 

re. 

—  in 

3   ■ 

el  f(H-  more 

tn 

UH(lJll<'  liis 

r. 

-^ 

['  llainiltoi 

vitation  lo 

7 

r 

(li<»  Noidi 

^I  to  make 

> 

Tliciv  is  ii 

o  1m'  wiped 

o  w 

cial   •••Inhcs 

0  3 

h  Pole.    I, 

uaiiy  lliou- 

s  beautiful 

o  • 

part   of  it 

^t  so  (o  MIC, 

f'li  created. 

lent  for  its 

trobU'in  of 

tripes." 

.  Grinuell: 

« 


o' 


v)  o 


?o 


— »  (/)         B 

ft"  rV  i-H 

c  cr  cr  S" 

S"  «  «  2 

!?  tDo  2, 

p  p  "^  O 

"-'  =<§: 


w*     I 


I 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THK    GREAT    VVHITK    WORLD. 

♦In  tliivo  t«)  Ave  ycai-H,  I  «l()ubt  uot,  with  th 


321 


pnitcclioii  of  lijol,  Ih-av*'!!  a 


N  on  I 


JIK«'S  I  would  fully  anoinplisli  the  dot 


iiij;  Hoiil,   wliicli   (Ictt'iiiiiiial 


V  Hiiuw  aid  and 

iiy  two  pi'cvloiiH  Arctic  voy- 

'iinination  of  my  bnni- 


KMi,    my   dear   Mr.   (jririiicll,    y 


know  to  h<«  to  put.  my  foot  ou  the  m>rtli  cxt 
of  the  j^lohc." 

In  writ  inn  to  the  Senate  Committee  on  h 
ho  adds: 


ou 


i-emity  of  tlie  axis 


'orcign  KtdationH 


life 


'Neither  "lory  nor  numev  h 


and 


NonI  to  Arctic  exploration." 


as  caused  nn*  to  devote  my  vt?rv 


In  Ins  ellorts  to  orj-anize  the  expedition,  Hall  received  th<' 
iiHive  support  of  President  (Irant,  Senators  John  Sherman, 
<'harles  Snmner,  and  nmny  others,  ami  at  .length  ('onj-resJ 
<<ii>i«'  to  his  aid  with  an  appropriation  of  | .-)(),(»)(). 

A  schooner-rinj.vd  steamer,  the  "Periwinkle,"  rechristened 
tiic  "I'olaris,"  was  then  purchase<l  and  e(piipped  for  the  voyage. 

All-told,  seventeen  persons  constituted  the  party,  one-half 
of  whom  were  (Jermans  and  Scandinavians.  Tliechief  per- 
snnancs  were:  Captain  Hall,  commander;  Sydm'y  ().  Bud- 
•I'l'gton,  for  thirty  years  in  the  whaling  servi<-i',  sailing  mas- 
ter; (Jeorge  E.  Tyson,  assistant  navigator;  H.  (Miester,  first 
niJite;  William  Morton,  twenty  years  previous  Kane's  best  man, 
second  mate;  Emil  Hessels,  physician  and  director  of  scientific 
work;  Kmil  Schuman,  chief  engineer;  F.  Meyer,  meteondogist; 
n.  I).  W.  Hryan,  astronomer  and  chai)lain;  besides,  Joe,  Han- 
"Jill,  and  their  child,  "Puny."  To  these  were  added  in  (Jreen- 
I.H'<1,  Hans,  hunter  and  interpreter  <.f  the  Kane  and  Hayes 
expcditKms,  with  his  wife  and  three  children. 

Sailing  from  New  York  on  June  2J)th,  1S71,  the  "Polaris" 
iirrive<l  at 

TES-SI-U-SAK. 

(Jreenland,  August  22d.  This  is  the  most  northern  permanent 
mdized  settlement  in  the  world  and  is  in  latitude  70°  3')' 
Steps  had  previously  been  made  along  the  (Jreenland  c<mst  for 
t"<'  purpose  of  purchasing  dogs,  fur  suits,  and  othor  Arctic 
supplies. 


j|. 


322 


THE   SEARCH    FOR  THE   NORTH   POLE: 


Leaving  Tessiiisak,  the  "JV)Iaris"  met  with  very  little  ice 
and  entered  the  body  of  water  thought  by  Kane,  Morton,  and 
Hayes  to  be  an  open  polar  sea,  but  which  was  found  by  Hall 
to  be  a  mere  expansion  of  Smith's  i^ound  or  Robeson  Channel, 
and  now  known  as  Kane's  Basin. 

In  a  week's  time  the  "Polaris"  had  attained  her  highest 
latitude,  82°  29',  according  to  Hall,  but  13',  or  about  fifteen 
miles,  less,  by  Meyer's  calculation. 

Kobeson  Channel  becoming  filled  with  heavy  ice,  the  "Po- 
laris" was  drifted  southward,  until,  on  the  3d  of  September, 
an  indentation  on  the  Greenland  side  was  entered.  It  was 
named 

THANK  GOD  HARBOR, 

a  cove  of  Polaris  Bay,  in  latitude  ,81°  38'.  Here  winter  quar- 
ters were  established.  This  was  two  hundred  miles  north  of 
Kane's  headquarters,  and  about  three  miles  farther  north  than 
the  last  point  reached  by  Hayes.  The  "Polaris"  was  moored 
to  a  huge  island  of  ice  named  Providenceberg. 

On  the  10th  of  October,  Captain  Hall,  wit\  Chester,  Joe, 
and  Hans,  started  on  a  trip  north  with  two  sledges  and  four- 
teen dogs.  On  the  13th,  the  long  Arctic  night  set  in,  with  a 
temperatur.  of  7°. 

Ten  days  after  leaving  the  ship,  the  party  reached  the  ter- 
mination of  theii-  journey,  in  about  latitude  83°  5'.  They  had 
covered  a  distance  of  seventy  miles  in  six  marches. 

A  point  of  land  seemed  to  be  visible  still  north  of  them, 
but  the  api)earance  of  a  cJ.  id  prevented  a  settleuient  of  the 
question.  Excepting  a  gu.cier  in  hi  "tude  80°  30',  the  moun- 
tains of  Kennedy  (^hannel  and  Kobeson  Strait  appeared  t(»  be 
free  from  ice  and  snow. 

Seals,  ducks,  geese,  nares,  lemmings,  foxes,  Avolves,  bears, 
ptarmigans,  and  musk-cattle  were  found  in  abundance. 

Miich  of  this  journey  was  made  over  the  ice  of  a  bay,  which 
Captain  Hall  named  in  honor  of  the  celebrated  Itev.  J.  P.  New- 
man.    The  cape  at  the  southern  extremity  of  its  mouth  he 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD,  323 

named  Humiier  Uoadlaud,  as  a  slight  tokeii  of  bis  appreciation 
of  the  services  of  the  great  orator  and  statesman;  to  the  one 
at  Its  northern  extremity,  and  near  the  last  encampment,  he 
applied  the  name  of  Mr.  lirevoort.  The  strait  into  which  the 
baj  opens  he  named  in  honor  of  the  Honorable  Secretary  of 
the  United  States  Navy,  George  M.  Kobeson. 

Having  written  a  dispatch  to  Secretary  Kobeson,  Hall  de- 
posited a  copy  of  it  at  Cape  Brevoort.  This  was  the  last  ever 
penned  by  him. 

Setting  out  upon  the  return,  the  -Polaris"  was  reached  in 
tour  days.  Captain  Hall  appeared  to  be  in  usual  health,  but 
the  sudden  change  from  open-air  temperatures  of  — l.r  and 
-20  to  00°  and  70°  in  the  cabin  had  a  bad  effect  upon  him, 
and  he  partook  of  no  refreshment  except  a  cup  of  coffee. 

After  taking  a  )iot  sponge  bath,  he  retired  for  the  night. 

In  the  morning  he  was  much  worse,  suffering  with  alburn- 

lug  sensation  in  the  throat,  and  with  vomiting.     He  steadily 

grew  worse  for  a  week,  became  delirious  and  partially  para- 

ytic.     He,  however,  nearly  recovered  and  began  to  resume 

his  work. 

On  the  8th  of  November  he  was  found  in  his  cabin  bv  Mr 
lyson  insensible  and  breathing  heavily.  That  same  night 
lie  died.  '' 

A   SHALLOW  GRAVE 

but  twenty-six  inches  deep  was  dug  with  great  difticultv  in 
tiie  frozen  soil,  and,  at  mid-day  on  the  10th  of  November,  1S71 
all  that  was  mortal  of  the  gallant  Charles  Francis  Hall  was 
liiK  to  rest.  Slowly  and  with  deep  sorrow  tlu^  ship's  compauv 
picked  Its  way  by  the  aid  of  lanterns  to  the  lonelv  spot  Over 
tl.'^  body,  covere.1  with  the  flag  he  loved  so  well,  was  read  a 
(  mstian  burial  service;  and  then  followed  the  doleful  sound 
of  he  frozen  clods  as  they  struck  upon  the  coftin,  int<.-minghMl 
with  lamentations  of  p(,<>i.  jo,.  and  Hannah,  t<,  whom  hc-had 
been  as  a  father  for  more  than  (en  years. 

In  July  of  the  next  year,  the  grave  was  marked  bv  means 


THE  SEARCH  TOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 

of  a  pine  board  one  and  a  half  inches  thick,  upon  which  was 
cut  this  inscription: 

In  memory  of 

CHARLES  FRANCIS  HALL, 

Late  commander 

U.  S.  Steamer  Polaris,  North  Pole  Expedition. 

Died 

Nov.  8,  1S71.     Aged  50  years. 

"I  am  the  resurrection  and  the  life;  he  that  believeth  on  me,  though 

he  were  dead,  yet  shall  he    "e." 

The  grave  was  also  surrounded  Avith  stones  enclosing  a 
quantity  of  soil  to  which  were  transferred  sonie  plants. 

Within  the  grave  was  also  buried  a  cvlinder  containin«r 
a  hiMtory  of  tlie  expedition.  ^  ^ 

Four  years  later,  the  Engli.^h  expedition  under  Nares  erect- 
ed a  more  substantial  monument  in  the  same  place  to  com- 
memorate the  services  of  him  who  had  so  long  and  so  faithfully 
sought  for  furtlK^r  light  regarding  their  countrymen. 

It  was  a  brass  tablet  prepared  in  England  and  bearing  this 
inscription: 

"g'  ;red  to  the  Memory  of 
CAPTAIN  C.  F.  HALL. 
Of  the  U.  S.  S.  'Polaris,' 
Who  sacrificed  his  life  in  the  advancement  of  science, 
November  8,  1871. 
"This  tablet  has  been  erected  by  the  British  Polar  Expedi- 
tion of  1875,  who,  following  in  his  footsteps,  have  profited  by 
his  experience." 

It  was  placed  at  the  foot  of  the  grave,  upon  which  was 
found  still  alive  the  willow  planted  by  Captain  Tys(m,  in  1872. 

Upcm  the  death  of  (^aptain  Hall,  the  control  of  the  ship  and 
the  direction  of  its  movements  dev(dved  upon  Captain  Ru.l- 
dington,  wliih'  all  sledge  journeys  and  scientific  operations 
^y<'^e  in  charge  of  Dr.  Bessels.  This  was  agreeable  to  instruc 
tions  from  the  i}(»vernment.  The  two  men  therefore  held  a 
consultation  and  ju'cpared  and  signed  (he  following: 

"It  is  our  honest  intention  to  honor  our  dear  dag,  and  to 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


325 


hoist  her  ori  the  most  northern  part  of  the  earth,  to  com- 
plete the  enterprise  upon  which  the  eyes  of  the  whole  civilized 
world  are  raised,  and  to  do  all  in  our  power  to  reach  our  pro- 
posed goal." 

The  ensuing  winter  was  spent  as  usual  in  the  Arctic  regions 
and  there  was  no  lack  of  food  or  fuel.  Joe  and  Hans  hunted 
with  great  success  and  fur  .lothing  was  obtained  in  abun- 
dance. The  storerooms,  already  i)artly  filled  with  skeletons  of 
animals  and  birds,  with  eggs,  and  other  specimens  of  natural 
history,  became  well  supplied. 

A  large  number  of  very  beautiful  fossils  was  collected  (m 
Oftley  Island,  near  the  mouth  of  the  l»etermann  Fiord.  They 
were  of  a  tropical  vegetation  resembling  bamboo  and  were 
found  in  a  crumbling  embankment.  Interesting  remains  of 
Eskimo  habitations  were  also  seen  on  this  island.  In  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  Thank  God  Harbor  were  collected  fossils 
from  erratic  boulders. 

Quite  a  quantity  of  driftwood  was  also  gathered.  It  had 
doubtless  been  borne  thither  by  the  current  coming  from  the 
north. 

Early  in  June,  1872,  Cliester  and  Tyson  attempted  a  boat 
journey  northward,  but  failed  to  get  as  far  as  did  Captain  Hall. 
They  were,  however,  recalled  by  Captain  Ruddington,  who  had 
determined  to  return  home. 

On  the  12th  of  August,  Mrs.  Hans  Hendrick  was  delivered 
of  a  son,  very  appropriately  named  by  the  crew 

CHARLES    POLARIS    HENDRICK. 

The  little  stranger  was  gladly  welcomed  and  much  petted  by 
Mil  at  Thank  Ood  Harbor.     This,  it  may  be  remarked,  was  the 
tirst  babe  ever  born  to  civilized  parents  at  so  high  a  latitude 
viz.,  81°  ;i7' north. 

The  "INdaris"  becoming  free  of  ice,  on  the  evening  of  that 
same  day,  the  vessel  steamed  slowly  southward  along  the  west- 
ern shore  of  K(Minedy  Channel. 

Four  days  later,  in  latitude  S0°  2',  she  niade  fast  to  a  floe 
and  drifted  hither  and  thither  in  Kane  «ea  and  Smith  Strait  for 


326 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE: 


nearly  two  months  without  gaining  more  than  one  hundred 
twenty  niik\s  wouth,  being,  at  tlie  end  of  that  time,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Littleton  Island,  latitude  78°  20'. 

On  the  ISth  of  October,  the  "Polaris"  encountered  a  terrific 
gale  from  the  south.  Provisions  and  other  stores  were  hastily 
placed  on  the  ice.  At  midnight,  in  the  midst  of  the  storui, 
while  nineteen  of  the  party  were  upon  the  fioe,  the 

SHIP    BROKE    LOOSE 

and  immediately  disai)peare(l.  The  next  morning  she  was 
seen  under  steam  and  sail,  but  soon  changed  her  course  and 
again  disappeared.  A  few  hours  later,  another  glimpse  was 
caught  of  her,  but  upon  once  more  disappearing,  the  party 
upon  the  ice  fioe  supposed  that  they  had  been  abandoned. 

The  unfortunate  castaways  made  several  vain  attempts  to 
reach  the  shore,  and  soon  became  scattered  on  different  pieces 
of  ice.  Finally,  however,  by  means  of  the  row-boats,  whicli 
they  fortunately  retained,  they  were  again  collected  upon  the 
main  floe.  Here  snow-houses  were  built  in  which  they  took 
refuge. 

For  several  days  they  continued  to  see  lan<l,  but  soon  that 
disappeared  and  on  they  were  carried  by  the  great  white 
wilderness  into  the  dread  silence  of  the  Arctic  niuiit. 

On  several  occasions  they  were  upon  the  point  of  actual 
starvation,  and  cannibalism  was  thcmght  of.  But  each  time, 
the  s;ea  relented  and  gave  them  food. 

ON    NEW    YEAR'S    EVE 

Meyer's  observation  showed  their  position  to  be  in  latitude 
72°  10',  longitude  (50°  40',  olT  the  coast  from  I^ond's  Inlet.  They 
had  therefore  drifted  five  hundred  twenty-fiv(^  mih^s  in 
nine  weeks.  The  thermometer  indicated  a  temperature  of 
—39°  F. 

February  was  stormy  and  very  cold.  Towards  the  close  of 
the  month  provisions  were  nearly  exhausted. 

During  March  a  number  of  seals  were  secured  and  food  be- 
came abundant.     Innumerable  icebergs  surrounded  the  Hoe 


'  hundred 
le,  in  the 

a  terrifii; 
re  hastily 
be  storm, 


she  was 
)urse  and 
npse  was 
he  party 
)ued. 
tempts  to 
mt  pieces 
ts,  whicli 
upon  the 
hey  took 

■iioon  that 
at  white 

[)f  actual 
ich  time, 


latitude 
Bt.  Tliey 
miles  ill 
at  lire  of 

?  close  of 

food  bc- 
the  Hoe 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 

and  frequently  broke  up  Willi  a  noi 


32T 


,  ;  ,"         - •'"■•""  '""«t*  i-esembliu;-' f  lull  of  jii'lil- 

at  tadc  .,J    41,  „n  the.  uoflh  j,ei.iu»ula  of  l.abnuloi-.    Tbey 

JU..  Is   of  Apni  bi-ouohi  „  .„!,.  ,„„1  t:a.  iwrty  were  obli-ed 
"  take  refuse  i„  „ue  „f  tl„.  b„at«.     Tbi.  leak,.!  badlv, !■,:•■.» 

loaded  too  beavil.v.     Tbe   ,uea,  a„d  .d,,,hi„«\   .   ."tu  1 1", 
lu-own  „vei.b«a..,l,  tbe  tent,  skins  for  (ove.^.g,  aud  a    it    . 

bread  ami  „en,n,iea„be.:ug all  tbat  was  retained 

GALE    AFTER    GALE 

I'ur.'-ued   tben,   an,l   tbey   were  e,„„,,e I  fre,,ueutlv  t.,  seel- 

■•-f..«e  „„  tbe  clasbing  iee  llees.     „„'t|„.  „i,|,t  „  a  ,r  ,  7  „      , '. 

;::r  rb;::;;r:;:k::r::^l;;/^;r™'' --'"-- 

Pet^l  tbese  were  «„a„,  s^v;   ^ t^etZ^al  l"', ttS 
.|>^d„,t,  wet,  cold,  and  suffering  ain.ost  tbe  ^nlL  7lZ^ 

roe:;i:;:.f.:;',.;;iX':.t;;;r  """■" """  ■■"'*™  -'''•  «■-"  — >•■ 

.„o'^"  *'"'  -""''  •-"'  "''«"'v"tien  .,i,„wed  tben,  f„  be  in  latitude 

.3    5, -nearly  o„p„site  llu t„n  Inlet  a„,l  nearly  nineteen 

Imndred  n„.es  direetly  soutb  of  tbe  point  wbenee  4;  C. 

On  tbe  22,1,  a  bear  was  seen  eoniins  toward  tbe  party.    Joe 
.Hans,  se,...et,„«  tbe,.-  eUes  bebind  an  iee  l,„n„  oek     wau! 

t«0  si  ots  «e,,.  1,,-ed  and  tbe  en,,tui'e  fell  dead.     Will,  sbout's 

oy  tbe  pa,,  y  rus 1  upon  it,  and  d,.ank  to  satiety  o,  its t  ™ 

^nr,!;,,.         "   ■"  ^'"■'■"*'-^'  '■"•"■•""  "»"•'■•■""■'•  "'"l  t<,ok  fresb 

Ti.y  tbe  2(ltl,,  tbey  .vere  in  tbe  „,i,lst  of  tin.,  .sealing  gr„„nd.s 

and  obtained  a  plentiful  supj.ly  „f  f,„„i  "  '"'"""*' 

At  1  ust,  in  tbe  nfle,.noon  of  tbe  28tl,,  a  stea„„.r  .■a,.ryin>j 

n.gbt  for  tbe  same  purpose.    Early  in  tbe  morning  sbe  was 


328 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


again  sighted;  it  was  the  "Eagio,"  of  St.  John's,  N.  F.,  Captain 
Jackniau.     She  was  signalled,  but  failed  to  respond,  as  the 
shots  were  not  heard.     That  evening,  while  endeavoring  again 
to  attract  her  attention,  another  steamer  hove  in  sight. 
When  now  the  fog  broke,  on  the  morning  of  the  30th, 

A    GLORIOUS    SIGHT 

met  their  eyes;  tlie  strange  vessel  was  close  at  hand,  and  bore 
steadily  down  upon  them.  As  !.i«e  neared  the  overjoyed 
wretches,  three  <'heers  they  gave,  and  three  cheers  gave  one 
hundred  strong  voices  on  the  <leck  and  in  the  rigging  of  the 
staunch  little  vessel. 

They  were  saved!  The  ship  was  the  barkentine  steamer 
"Tigress,"  (Captain  Joseph  Bai'tlett,  of  ConceiJtion  Kay,  New- 
foundland. 

This  ( hrilling  but  happy  event  took  place  in  latitude  53°  35', 
off  (h-ady  11  ubor,  Labrador.  The  party,  nineteen  persons,  in- 
eluding  two  women  and  five  children,  the  youngest  of  Avhoiii 
was  but  two  months  old  when  the  separation  on  the  ice-tloc 
began,  had  drifted  south  nearly  two  thousand  mil(>s. 

They  eventually  arrived  in  Washington  on  the  5th  of  June 
and  soon  regain(Ml  their  usual  good  health. 

"Joe"  and  "Hannah"  repaired  to  their  htune,  in  (Jroton, 
Conn.,  which  Cai)tain  Hall  had  purchased  for  them.     There 

HANNAH    DIED 

of  c(msumplion  on  the  last  day  of  December,  ISKJ,  aged  thirh- 
eight.  In  June,  1S7S,  J<.e  returned  to  the  Arctic' seas  with 
Lieutenant  Scliwatka  and  remained  there. 

In  i  he  (}roton  cfMuetery  are  tombstones  bearing  inscriptions 
to  the  memory  of  tln^  following  Eskimos  wh(-  have  either  vis 
iled  or  died  (here:  Hannah  Too-koo-ii-too;  Kud-la-go,  July 
1,  1,S()0;  ()u-se-g<mg  (Jeannie),  July  1,  ISOT,  aged  2S;  Tu  ke-il- 
ke-ta,  February  2S,  18(1.3,  aged  1,S  mouths  (Haiinah's  first-boni, 
died  in  New  York);  Sylvia  (Jrinnell  Ebierbing  ("Puny"),  born  ai 
Ig-loo-lik,  July,  ISdi;,  and  died  Mar<h  18,  1875.  Sylvia  was 
the  adopted  daughter  of  Joe  and  Hannah. 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  329 

While  the  above  narrated  events  were  transpirinj--  with 
the  floe  party,  the  " 

LITTLE   COMPANY   ON    BOARD  THE    "POLARIS" 

were  likewise  engaged  amidst  stirring  scenes.     Fourteen  they 

r  n  Tm  '  ?'""^  '^^''"  ^'^"«  ^'"I^^^'"  Buddington,  Mates  Ches- 
ter and  Morton,  Dr.  Bessels,  and  Messrs.  Bryan  an.I  .Schumann. 
At  the  time  of  separation  the  vessel  had  sustained  an  in- 

fca  ed  t  would  reach  the  fires  before  steam  could  be  gen- 
<Tated  to  work  tl.e  pump.  All  hands  were  therefore  put  in 
work  ui)on  the  four  pumps  on  the  main  deck. 

"NOW    WORK    FOR    YOUR    LIVES,    BOYS!" 

exclaims  the  captain,  as  every  man  la.ys  hold  and  streams  rush 
li'om  the  pun.ps.  Standing  deep  in  the  ice-cold  water  the  im- 
I'<"''>1<'<1  nwu  work  incessantly,  and  insensible  to  the  exposure 
because  in  mortal  conibat  with  death  himself. 

Tho  leak  steadily  gains;  engineers  and  firemen  work  asthev 
never  had  worked  before.     Should  the  water  rise  to  the  fire- 
plates  all  will  be  lost!     Ten-twenty-thirty  minutes  elapse! 
Ntill  the  brave  men  urge  themselves  to  the  utmost!     Must  thev 
raise  the  sea  himself?     (Jod  be  merciful!     Now  forty— fiftv— 
sixty  minutes  drag  alon-!     Will  the  steam  never  generate'^ 
The  water  rises  rapidly!     Ten  minutes  more  pass  painfullv, 
yet  hopefully-prayerfully!     The  ice-cold  flood  begins  to  steal 
Its  way  over  the  floor  of  th^  engine-room!     Soon  the  fires  will 
be  submerged  and  all  will  be  lost!     Rut  behold -the  great 
pump  begins  to  move!      Quick  spetnls  the  word  among  the 
tired  men.     They  redouble  their  efforts.     The  engine  now  be- 
<-omes  a  thing  of  life!     Tt  gains  upon  the  leak,  slowlv  at  firsl 
and   then  rapidly  so  that  all  anxiety  for  Ibe  time-being  is 
removed.  *^ 

On  the  following  afternoon,  October  Ifitli,  the  "Poliris" 
I'f^aclied  the  land  and  wns  secured  by  menus  of  i„.avv  Imw.ers 

On  this  ihiy,  too,  the  sun  was  seen  for  (he  lasf  time  in  sev- 
eral months. 


>  <i<9 


330 


THE  SEARCH    FOR  THE  NORTH   POLE: 


On  the  uext  day  the  crew  begau  to  remove  stores  and  pro- 
visions to  the  shore.  Life  iu  the  vessel  was"  uo  longer  secure. 
Everything-  available  about  her  was  Kiade  to  contribute  to 
the  erection  and  furnishing  of  new  quarters  for  the  homeless 
men.  She  was  stripped  to  a  mere  hulk  and  a  comfortable 
structure  called 

POLARIS    HOUSE, 

builded  of  her  timbers.  In  this  work  tlie  men  were  greatly 
assisted  by  the  natives,  who  came  from  Etah  with  their  dog>< 
and  sledges  for  that  very  purpose.  They  worked  diligently, 
good  naturedly  and  were. ever  ready  for  a  hearty  laugh. 
Among  them  were  Ah-wah-tah  and  Mi-ouk,  mentioned  by  Dr. 
Kane.     They  seemed  to  recollect  Mr.  Morton. 

On  the  25th  an  Eskimo  living  at  the  head  of  Foulke  Fiord 
arrived  with  his  wife  and  two  children,  a  boy  of  four,  and  a 
girl  of  two  years  of  ag(^  The  woman  had  her  face  tattooed 
and  said  that  she  came  from  the  land  on  the  west  side  of  Smith 
Strait— Ellesmere  Land— being  one  of  a  party  that  had  crossed 
over  four  or  live  years  before,  in  an  (M)-mi-ak,  and  five  ky-aks. 
This  family  were  the  only  survivors.  They  had  introduced 
among  the  East-land,  or  Whale  Sound  natives,  the  use  of  the 
bow  and  arrow.  Both  Kane  and  Hayes  state  that  these  people 
did  not  use  that  weapon  at  the  time  of  their  voyages. 

Some  of  these  same  immigrants  from  the  West-land  and 
their  descendants  were  living  among  their,  kinsmen  of  the 
East-land  at  the  time  of  our  residence  among  them  in  1893-4. 
By  these  same  immigrants  too  were  taught  to  the  East-landers 
the  construction  and  use  of  the  kyak. 

During  the  winter  Polaris  House  was  seldom  without  its 
Eskimo  visitors.  They  not  only  brought  with  them  a  great 
quantity  of  walrus  and  seal  meat,  but  good  cheer  and  never- 
ending  sources  of  entertainment.  To  illustrate:  one  afternoon 
with  song,  and  dance,  and  tin-pan  drum  they  engaged  in  many 
of  their  sports,  E-took-e-sha,  or 

"JIMMY." 

a  man  from  the  West-land,  dressed  in  a  white  navy-frock,  his 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  331 

long  jet-black  hair  falling  gracefully  upon  his  shoulders  from 
beneath  a  suiall  round  hat,  dancing  a  regular  "break-down^ 
to  the  airs  of  Mr.  Chester's  violin.  "i^ak  down 

Some  of  the  white  men,  however,  treated  these  kind-hearted 
eople  with  disdain;    but  to  those  who  were  kind  to  tiem 
they  in  turn  were  agreeable  and  very  useful.     Jimmy  in  pa^ 
ticnlar  did  good  service,  always  bringing  the  ice  to  be  nXl 
;yhenever  necessary,  and  otherwise  assisting  in  the  daily  rou 

From  him  Captain  Buddington  learned  that  there  were 
niany  Eskimos  living  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Isabella  and  all 
ak)ng  he  coast  of  Ellesmere  Land.  Jim's  father-in-law  lived 
tlicre,  he  said;  and  in  the  winter-time  they  frequently  visited 
each  other,  crossing  the  strait  on  the  ice.  This  land,  he  also 
stated,  IS  an  island  called  by  the  natives  Oo-ming-mung,  from 
he  number  of  musk-cattle  to  be  found  there.  He  himself  had 
frequently  gone  round  it. 

E-took-e-sha's  (Jim's)  wife,  E-val-loo,  meaning  thread,  did 
not  belie  the  appropriateness  of  her  name;  for  she  did  excellent 
service  with  that  article,  making  many  garments  for  the  men, 
out  of  skins.  Their  little  children  greatly  amused  all,  and 
many  pleasant  hours  passed  in  playing  with  them.  The  pret- 
ty and  affectionate  little  girl  was  a  general  pet. 

E-val-loo  was  particularly  bright-possessing  a  woman's 
world-wide  power  of  intuition-and  could  make  herself  more 
clearly  understood  than  her  husband,  who  looked  upon  her 
with 

UNCONCEALED   ADMIRATION 

as  She  conversed.  From  her  more  was  learned  concerning  the 
West-land  people  of  which  she  and  her  family  were  a  part. 
Having  crossed  over  with  some  of  her  tribe  to  the  place  where 
Dr.  Hayes  had  left  his  iron  boat,  which  was  found  to  be  broken 
and  useless,  they  picked  un  everything,  includino-  the  oars, 
and  passed  on  to  the  mainland  where  was  found  Dr.  Haves' 
observatory.  Here  they  remained  several  (lavs  examining  tlu^ 
many  strange  things  which  they  had  discovered.    One  night, 


832 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE: 


when  sleeping  in  tlie  liouse,  soniu  lire  was  dropped  into  a  cawk 
cuutaiuinj;  pttwder  and 

A    TERRIFIC    EXPLOSION 

followed.  Four  or  five  of  the  party  were  killed,  among  them 
l)eing  "Jim's"  father.  The  j-urvivors  returned  to  their  native 
shore,  leaving  Jim  and  his  family. 

When  on  his  hunting  trijjs  Jim  almost  invariably  reserved 
the  walrus  liver  for  his  white  friends.  It  is  the  choice  part 
of  the  animal  and  parti«ularly  valuable  as  either  a  preventive 
or  cure  for  the  scurvy. 

On  the  27th  of  February  the  returning  sun  was  seen  from 
the  deck  of  the  vessel. 

About  this  time  Mr.  Chester,  assisttMl  by  Messrs.  Coffln  and 
Booth,  began  the  erection  of  two  boats  in  Avhich  the  party  were 
to  endeav(«'  to  make  their  escape  with  tlie  advent  of  open 
water.  These  boats  when  c(uupleted,  three  months  later,  wer<? 
twenty-five  feet  in  length,  five  in  width  and  two  feet  four  inches 
in  depth.  Th<'  material  used  was  from  the  provision-lockers 
and  the  ceiling  of  the  main  cabin. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  March  2d 

OLD    AH-WAH-TAH 

caught  sight  of  a  bear  and  immediately  gave  cliase  with  sledge 
and  dogs.  Ills  only  weapon  was  a  spear  four  feet  in  length. 
He  remained  out  all  night,  but  returned  late  the  next  day 
with  the  bear's  carcass  upon  the  sled.  Meanwhile  the  weather 
was  bitter  cold  with  a  strong  gale  blowing  from  the  north- 
east. ITe,  however,  seemed  as  indifferent  to  the  weather  as  to 
his  encounter  Avith  the  bear.  When  the  old  fellow  Um\i  off  his 
skin  jacket,  or  koo-le-tah,  to  dry  it,  his  frightfully  scarred  back 
showed  plainly  that  he  had  previously  engaged  in  similar  con- 
tests with  the  same  enemies.  Notwithstanding  his  age  and 
wounds  he  could  throw  a  spear  farther  and  more  accurately 
than  any  other  man  of  the  tribe. 

Among  the  strangers  who  came  to  Polaris  House  was 

AN   ESKIMO    WITH    A    WOODEN    LEG. 

He  related  that  when  a  boy  he  was  hunting  birds  on  a  hill  and 


OR.    I  .FE    IN    THE    Gllk  WiflTB    WORLD. 


333 


waH  serlruiHly  iiijuitMl  by  a  stoiio  i(,|| 


mother  cui  oir  hln  l.-o  alM>nt  wix  iiiclios  Ix'l^vv  tlu.  I 


iiiK  upon  liiN  ltM»(.     His 
HOC.     Tho 


surgoou  <,f  tli<.  lOnuiisi.  ship  "North  Star''  ,na,l..  a  woodeu  h  - 
or  him  .u  18-1  ,  -.0.     This  wan  repairs,!  and  roM-w.,!  by  | 
I  ayes.      lh(M,no  h«.  M.on  luul  was  provided  with  an  ankU.^„u.t 
of  h.s  o,vu  ...        f.     .  .,     This  n.an  was  a  wi.iowor  an<l  so,,,.- 

;.;!.     r'  '%    '"  "! ""  ''■'''"  '"  "'"'^•'  "  ^'"''^  ^"'  "'•'  ^^-«<  *•*>*'•-♦  i" 
'uit      uiVhim  ''  "''     *  "'"'''  ^^''  ''""'*'"  *'"  •  '"*  ''*'"'  "'*'•'  ""'•  "^'t 

<    •  tlH'  ;{(!  or  May,  after  a  brief  illness  of  intiammallon  of 
I  lie  Inngs,  Mioiik  died. 

This  oecurred  at  E-tah  Oa-ah-tah-nv,  or  Sar-fal-ik  He  it 
was  who  had  been  th(«  first  to  help  tl,;  white  men  to're.novo 
tlu'.r  stores  fro,  the  disaJded  ship;  and  !«.  it  was  wlu,,  son.e^ 
|vha  later  ami  .u.rinj,.  a  period  <,f  «re.(  s.nrcity  of  n.eal  at 
I-<al.,  had  vis,t,Ml  the  ship  to  be^  for  bread  and  blubber  for  his 
starvmjr  family. 

■It  ^11  y'r-!'""  'f  ''''  *^''^''  ^^'''''-  ^  •••"'P'»'ll  ^"Ml  Hayes  were 
at  ►Sar-fal-ik  and  Avitnessed  th<' 

BURIAL    CEREMONIES. 

Shortly  after  Mi-onk's  death,  the  body  was  wrapped  in  skins 
.  nd,  with  all  his  hunt  in-  imph-nients,  idaeed  on  a  sledo,.  and 
<lrawn  up  the  slo,,e  back  <.f  the  settlement  and  then  placed  in 
a  hole  dug  in  the  snow,  in  a  sitting.  i)osture,  facin-  (he  west, 
lis  sled  and  other  personal  property  were  then  placed  over 
Inm.  All  the  men  carried  a  bunch  of  dried  grass  in  the  rioht 
nostril,  the  women  in  the  left.  Their  sorrow  was  manifested 
•u  their  peculiar  way-that  <.f  the  widow  in  an  Insane  inan- 
'HM'.  Says  Ituddington:  "As  I  undcu'stand,  the  widow  of  Mi-ouk 
killed  the  youngest  child,  a  baby  ab(Mit  six  months  old.  One 
<»f  our  men  had  prevented  Ix^r  frcun  committing  this  crime  on 
iho  day  of  Mi-onk's  death;  but  Jim's  wife,  E-val-l<M),  informed 
me  to-day  that  it  was  really  d(»ne  while  our  men  were  out  on 
the  ice.     These  natives  are  indeed 

TO    BE    PITIED, 

and  a  mission  station  erected  among  these  savages  wouhl  be  a 
good  work." 
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334 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


Thus  is  added  to  the  commiseration  expressed  ou  behalf  of 
these  people  by  Dr.  Kaue,  the  willing  testimony  of  the  big- 
hearted  Buddington — a  fit  succeHsor,  indeed,  to  the  compassion- 
ate IlaM,  whose  very  soul  went  out  toward  the  entire  Eskimo 
race — his  "untamed  eagles"  of  the  distant  North.  The  men 
also  witnessed  the  proceedings  for 

A    DIVORCE. 

Mun-nee,  a  good-looking  girl,  had  been  forced  by  her  father  to 
marry  E-noo,  a  youth  in  good  circumstances,  notwithstanding 
she  loved  one  whose  wealth  was  not  in  worldly  possessions. 
The  marriage  was,  of  course,  an  unhappy  one. 

After  a  time  the  condition  of  the  unfortunate  lover  im- 
proved and  Mun-nee  accordingly  resolved  upon  securing  a 
divorce.  This  was  obtained  in  this  manner:  Mun-nee  lay  upon 
her  back  in  one  of  the  igloos,  her  knees  drawn  up,  while  one 
end  of  a  cord  was  fastened  around  her  head.  A  very  old 
woman,  Ka-rush-uck,  stood  over  her,  holding  in  her  hand  the 
cord  and  uttering  what  appeared  to  be  a  form  of  words.  The 
tone  and  measure  of  her  voice  frequently  varied,  and  with  the 
cord  she  often  raised  Mun-nee's  head.  This  ceremony  lasted 
about  two  hours,  there  being  no  other  person  in  the  igloo  save 
Mun-nee's  brother-in-law,  Shu-kok  by  name.  At  the  end  of 
the  performance  Shu-kok  took  her  on  his  sled  to  one  of  the 
settlements  farther  south  Avliere  she  was  met  by  her  sister  and 
by  her  lover,  who  immediately  proposed  and  was  accepted. 

During  the  proceedings  for  the  divorce  the  discarded  hus- 
band remained  crying  bitterly  in  a  neighboring  igloo,  and 
would  not  be  comforted.  After  his  wife's  departure  he  went 
about  complaining  "Mun-nee  pe-ter-ahng-ee-too"— Mun-nee's 
gone. 

Twenty  years  later  the  writer  observed  a  similar  though 
greatly  abridged  performance.  A  husband  tiring  of  his  wife, 
proposed  to  the  wife  of  another  man  that,  with  the  concurrence 
of  her  husband,  she  become  his  (the  dissatisfied  Inisband's) 
wife,  the  second  husband  acquiring  the  discarded  wife.  With 
much  secret  parleying  the  exchange  was  amicably  effected— 


1  behalf  of 
)f  the  big- 
mi  passiou 
re  Eskimo 
The  meu 


p  father  to 
hstamling 
jssessions. 


lover  im- 
eciiring  a 
e  lay  upon 
while  one 

very  old 
■  hand  the 
)rds.  The 
1  with  the 
my  lasted 
igloo  save 
he  end  of 
)ne  of  the 
sister  and 
cepted. 
irded  hns- 
igloo,  and 
e  he  went 
Mnn-nee's 

ar  though 
f  his  wife, 
ucurrenre 
nisband's) 
'ife.  With 
effected — 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  .    335 

only  to  be  undone  some  days  later  by  a  settlement  of  what  had 
evidently  caused  the  separation  in  the  first  place-viz.,  a  fam- 
ily quarrel. 

On  the  13th  of  May,  Mr.  Bryan,  accompanied  by  E-took-e- 
sha,  or  "Jmi,"  with  sled  and  dog-team,  made  a  trip  to  Dr. 
Kane's  old  headquarters  in  Rensselaer  Harbor,  the  distance, 
seventy-one  miles,  being  accomplished  in  sixteen  hours.  An 
amusing  incident  happened  on  the  way.  Mr.  Bryan,  who  was 
sitting  on  the  sled  behind  Jim,  fell  asleep.  He  was  suddenlv 
awakened  by  a  sharp  sting  caused  by  the  end  of  Jim's  cutting 
lash  striking  his  face.  He  began  to  expostulate  in  a  kind  way 
with  the  driver,  but  found  that  he,  too,  was  fast  asleep.  The 
dogs  were  meanwhile  working  their  way  through  the  snow, 
being  urged  forward  by  the  continuous  lashing  administered 
by  the  unconscious  teamster. 

At  Rensselaer  Harbor  Mr.  Bryan  found  the  copper  bolt  set 
in  lead  by  Dr.  Kane  to  mark  the  site  of  his  observatory,  besides 
a  great  many  pieces  of  iron,  glass,  wood,  leather,  cloth,  rope, 
etc.,  lying  about  the  island  and  on  the  mainland. 

At  the  place  where  Baker  and  Schubert  were  buried  but 
lew  words  could  be  made  out  of  the  names  and  inscriptions 
painted  upon  the  rock  to  indicate  their  final  resting-places. 

A  few  days  later  Mr.  Bryan  accompanied  Ah-wah-tah  near- 
ij  to  the  head  of  Foulke  Fiord,  whither  the  native  was  desirous 
to  go  for  the  purpose  of 

CATCHING    LITTLE    AUKS. 

Thero  the  sloping  side  of  Dodge  Mountain,  which  was  covered 
with  large  rocks,  fairly  swarmed  witli  the  chirping  creatures. 
1  he  vi(iw  at  times  was  fairly  obstructed  bv  them,  and  the  rocks 
were  whitened  by  their  breasts.  Having  fastened  the  dogs  at 
the  base  of  the  mountain,  the  men  made  a  partial  ascent  <»f  the 
slope  until  in  the  midst  of  the  whirring  thousands,  when,  with 
a  net  of  sinew  fastened  upon  a  hoop  a  foot  and  a  half  in  diame- 
U^v,  attached  t»,  a  pole  about  ten  feet  in  length.  Ah-wah-tah 
soon  captured  a  large  quantity  of  them  as  they  flew  almost  con- 
stantly within  his  reach. 


336  • 


THE   SEARCH    FOR  THE   NORTH   POLE: 


Of  tlip  delicious  birds  tlie  dogs  were  given  a  liearty  meal 
and  then  the  two  men  proceeded  to  the  very  head  of  the  liord, 
n-hei'e  they  found  Dr.  Bessels,  who  had  gone  there  to  exaniiue 
"Brother  John's  Glacier"  and  to  make  some  observations  rela- 
tive to  its  rate  of  motion. 

Thence  Mr.  Bryan  and  Dr.  Bessels  proceeded  to  Port 
Poulke,  where  the  grave  of  poor  Sonntag  was  visited.  It  had 
been  despoiled  by  the  natives,  who  had  sought  the  wood  of 
which  the  coi!in  had  been  constructed.  Thev  collected  and  re- 
placed  all  the  bones,  including  his 

FINE    LARGE    SKULL. 

and  refilled  the  grave.  They  also  reset  the  headstone.  The 
relics  were  not  numerous,  consisting  of  a  few  pieces  of  glass, 
wood,  and  a  bit  of  rope. 

The  29th  of  May  found  all  hands  busy  at  Polaris  House 
making  final  preparations  for  departure  in  the  boats,  which 
had  been  completed  two  days  previous.  Each  man  was  allowed 
but  eight  pounds  of  baggage.  The  fuel  chopped  from  the  ship's 
rigging  and  provisions  for  two  and  a  half  months  carefully 
bagged,  were  got  in  readiness. 

On  the  next  day  nearly  all  the  land  ice  broke  away,  and 
with  it  th(>  "Polaris"  went  adrift.  The  ship,  however,  ground- 
ed after  moving  about  two  hundred  yards  toward  the  south. 
At  liigh  tide  the  water  stood  about  two  feet  above  her  upper 
deck.  She  was  made  fast  to  the  rocks  on  the  shore,  it  being 
thought  that  she  would  ultimately  beach  herself  in  the  autumn 
and  thereby  furnish  the  Eskimos  with  wood.     The 

POSITION    OF    POLARIS    HOUSE 

was  determined  by  Mr.  Bryan  to  be  latitude  78°  28'  30"  north, 
and  longitude  73°  21'  10"  west. 

On  the  2d  of  June  the  large  Arctic  library  of  Captain  I  hill 
was  carefully  packed  in  his  trunk,  and,  together  with  instni- 
ments,  two  log  books,  and  a  statement  of  what  had  been  done 
by  the  expedition  and  the  prospects  of  the  present  partv  renc  Ii- 
ing  either  a  vScotch  whaler  at  Cape  York,  or  some  of  the  Danish 


Hi 


arty  meal, 
f  the  liord, 
to  exaiiiiiu' 
itious  rcla- 

1  to  Port 
d.  It  had 
le  wood  of 
ted  and  re- 


tone.    The 
>s  of  glass, 


iris  House 
ats,  which 
as  allowed 
1  the  ship's 
!  earefullv 

away,  and 
^r,  ground- 
the  south. 
her  upper 
e,  it  being 
lie  autumn 


.30"  north, 

ptaln  I  hill 
itli  instru- 
been  done 
irtv  reach- 
he  Danish 


^4^, 


U^n- 

K 

x-2 

ten 

^■r  Jfc'sJ  JtT '--  ■^"'^''^i^tot . . 

Wm 

J^B^^l^^l^ 

. ' 

7. 

<1(»0 

►«r ..  ,                   '  '     ' .  . 

a 

tlio 

5^^,i«Sft»l«*««:.%r.. 

*                                                                            * 

fc-  r 

/,  •* 

con 

'■S. 

>.         4) 

J  ?  a 


x 


ha 
o 


.—  o 

=  -  J3 

^      6 
o 

u 


;;:  00 

S-  oo 

?  •  '-' 

1 

0.  J 

.2 

-*-» 

-Id     '^ 

«  .•  T3 

i; 

■—    ■**      QJ 

■£?  o. 

"^ 

5C;  W 

•/ 

2*^  >> 

-J   rt 

.     CQ 

§  .s 

^       «? 

-3^  J< 

i  n 

.£  t 

^  tt  > 

c  =  IK 

tT    >. 

F'S 

a.--  J 

J  7 

u 

/      -c 

1       *J 

i       •— 

^      o 

.  t   <u 

ir  ^  ^ 

^■5  E 

=  i:  1) 

x-2 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    OUEAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


337 


scttloiuoiUs,  (j.kon  about  a  fourth  of  a  mile  in  a  diroction  E. 
S.  10.  of  tlio  liou.st«  and  there  cached. 

On  the  afternoou  of  JuiieJJd  final  leave  was  taken  of  Tolaiis 
House.  P(M,i.  E-took-e-sha  and  his  family  expressed  j-reat  S(U'- 
I'oxv  at  beinjr  thus  left.  The  other  na  ives,  however,  were  not 
visibly  ali'ected,  the  difference  beinj.  attributed  to  their  comin<r 
suddenly  into  possession  of  so  much  propertv. 

Twenty  days  later  the  party  arrived  in 'safety  at  a  point 
iibout  twenty  miles  south  by  <  ast  of  (\,,)(.  Y„rk.  '  n,.,,.,  ,vhen 
<lM'  I)arty  were  at  rest,  Messrs.  Chester  and  l?ryan  Immui;  on 
watch  duty,  Mr.  Chesler  suddenly  aroused  the  company  with  a 
thrill  of  joy,  shouting-, 

"SHIP    AHOY." 

It  was  not  cruel  deception  that  called  every  man  instantly  to 
Ins  feeu  1  here,  southward  about  ten  miles,  were  three  masts 
and  the  smoke-stack  of  a  bark-theanxiously  h,oked-forScotcli 
wha  er.  I  oistinj.-  the  Stars  and  Stripes  on  two  oars  lashed 
(.ftother,  the  strange  vessel  signaled  in  return  by  running  up 
her  ensign  that  the  boat  party  were  observed 

A  few  hours  later  all  were  aboard  the  "Ravenscraig,"  of 

I'Klo  <;,  .^8  north,  and  longitude  (>5°  35'  west.  The  rescued 
par  .y  received  fr(,m  the  crew  of  the  "Kavenscraig"  g(>„„in(« 
Scotch  hospitality  and  also  with  gratitude  the  information 

iMt  the  ice-tlo<>  i,arty  under  C^iptain  Tyson  had  been  picked  up 
by  (  aptam  Hartlett  of  the  "Tigress." 

Shortly  afterwards  the  "Ravenscraig"  proceeded  to  Lancas- 
ivv  hound  and  Barrow's  Strait,  where  the  whaling-v(^ssels,  the 

Arctic,  Captains  Adams  and  Markham;  the  "Intrepid  "  (^n> 
tain  Soutar,  and  the  "Eric,"  Captain  Walker,  assisted'in  en- 
t^ertaimng  the  rescued  men  and  in  giving  them  passage  t(,  Dun- 
deo,  whence  all  ivturned  to  the  United  States  in  October  (»f 
the  same  year— -1873. 

Of  the  above-mentioned  British  officers  we  shall  learn  more 
"oncerning  Captain  Markham  in  succeeding  pages. 

While  Captain  Buddington  and  party  were  thus  being  cared 


838 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


for  by  (heir  j;(»iu'n)us  loscuors,  Uic  United  Stales  (lovornmont 
was  not  idle  in  prosecutiiij;  search  for  them.  Upon  the  arrival 
of  llie  ice-tloe  party  in  NVashinj;tou,  tlie  owners  of  tlie "Tigress" 
offered  her  to  the  Navy  I)e])artnu'nt  for  tlie  i)urpose  of  seek- 
ing the  remainder  of  the  ])arly.  The  proposition  was  accepted, 
and,  accompani((l  by  the  Muniata,"  Commanders  (Jreer  and 
Hraine  resju'ctively,  proceeded  to  the  West  (Jreenland  waters. 
On  board  the  "Jnniata"  was  Lientenant  (J.  W.  De  Long,  whose 
after  history  an<l  tragic  end  will  be  related  at  a  later  period  in 
onr  Arctic  miriative.  Commander  (Jreer  was  accompanied  by 
Cai)tain  Tyson  as  acting  lieutenant.  They  proceeded  on  board 
the  "Tigress"  to  Polaris  House  without  accpiiring  information 
concerning  ('ai»tain  Haddington  and  party  till  their  arrival 
among  the  Eskimos,  whom  they  found  in  possession  of  the 
house.  The  "Polaris,"  the  chief  speaker  among  the  Eskimos 
said,  had  been  forced  by  a  gale  which  occurred  a  short  time 
after  the  dei)arture  of  Ca])tain  Buddington  and  company,  about 
a  mile  and  a  half  toward  the  channel  separating  Littleton 
Lsland  from  the  mainland,  and  there  sunk.  Her  loss  was  much 
regretted  by  the  natives.  Commander  Greer  observed  two 
small  icebiM'gs  stranded  upon  the  wreck.  All  articles  remain- 
ing undestroyed  by  the  natives  were  placed  on  board,  and  the 
"Tigress,"  which  then  continued  the  search  southward,  re- 
turned to  New  York  on  the  10th  of  November.     . 

While  the  "Tigress"  was  absent  on  the  northern  portion  of 
lier  voyage,  the  "Juniata,"  being  merely  a  supply  vessel  for  the 
former,  remained  at  ( Jodhaven,  Disco  Island.  Here  on  the  north 
side  of  the  island,  in  the  Arctic  latitude  of  70°,  Commander 
Braine  inspected  the 

WEST   GREENLAND    COAL    MINES. 

He  says:  "The  coal  proved  frail  in  its  structure,  not  bearing 
much  handling,  and  was  obtained  in  lumps.  It  was  experi- 
mented with  for  fifteen  hours'  steaming  in  the  'Little  Juniata," 
using  salt  water.  It  ignites  easily,  burns  freely,  and  forms 
very  little  clinker.  The  fine  coal  burns  nearly  as  Avell  as  the 
lump.     A  regular  pressure  of  steam    was    kept    up,    twenty 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  sliD 

pounds  to  tho  square  inch,  with  the  furna.v  ,hM,rs  open  part 
of  the  tnne,  an.l  at  no  time  was  the  saturation  above  ^.  '     - 
veight  I  judye  ,t  requires  about  one-lcurth  nu>re  of  tliis  coal 
to  be  eonsunu.l  in  an,  given  time  to  produce  a  nun    anica 

In  n't^r  u  ''^'  r^ '''''''  -^-^^  '^^^  --^  -  bit  un-n;:;;:  i^ 

Its  natuu.  It  pr<,duces  very  little  smoke,  of  a  br(»wnish  color 
and  requn.es  but  little  labor  in  stokin,.  The  best  n^..^  s 
obtained,  are  from  a  thick  and  level  lire 

"While  in  this  locality  several  veins  were  f(,und  which  in- 
dicated good  coal,  and  large  quantities  of  it;  s<.  easily  was  the 
-al  mined  that  our  n.en,  nine  in  number,  would  have  removed 
and  carried  to  the  beach  one  hundred  tons  in  eight  davs  with 
the  tools  which  we  used." 

These  mines  were  located  upon  the  Waigat-the  strait  Iv- 
.ng  between  the  island  and  the  mainland  on  the  north-a  slu.rt 
distance  from  the  beach  and  at  an  elevation  of  about  one  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  sea. 

The  "Juniata"  preceded  the  "Tigress"  to  New  York  about 
r,  ''T'^'"*        "*'*  ^'''''^  previously  been  confirmed  of  the  safety 
of  the  Tolaris"  party  on  board  the  whaling- vessels 

n.  i!''"^,  ^'""^^'^y  ^"*'^*^  the  expedition  so  sorrowfully  begun. 
Ut  the  thirty-four  persons  related  to  the  enterprise  proper,  all 
hut  one-Its  deeply  lamented  brain,  and  heart,  and  soui;  the 
intrepid  Hall,  were  restored  to  health  and  home.  They  had 
not  been  unmindful  of  Him  who  controlled  their  destinies,  in 
their  religious  devotions,  and  He  had  not  deserted  them  in 
peril. 

But  for  the  untimely  death  of  Hall  it  can  scarcely  be 
doubted  that  he  would  have  achieved  wonderful  success  Even 
as  It  was,  he  advanced  farther  north  than  ever  yet  man  had 
Sone.  With  him  the  myth  of  the  open  polar  sea  disapi)eared ; 
Kobeson  Strait,  the  great  ice-hydra  of  the  North  (Jreenland 
Arctic,  was  made  to  take  its  place,  and  geographical  science 
became  enriched  by  a  generous  contribution  with  which  the 
donor  also  freely  gave  a  consecrated  life.  Botanv,  geolo-v 
astronomy,  meteorology-all  received  persistent  devotion  bv 
enthusiastic  assistants.    But  perhaps  greater  than  all  else  was 


840 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


the  knowledge  of  the  Eskiuios  of  that  region— those  hardy,  but 
affectionate, 

MOST   DISTANT    DWELLERS   OF   THE    NORTH, 

that  Highland  newt  of  "untamed  eagles,"  as  Hall  had  styled 
them,  and  whom  he  loved  so  long  and  so  well. 

Surely,  as  there  is  in  the  (heat  Beyond  a  plaee  for  every 
tribe  and  nation,  will  this  humane  raee  nu'et  there  a  gallant 
Franklin,  a  lion-hearted  Parry,  a  eourageous  Me(Mure,  a  chival- 
rous Kane,  and  an  heroic  Mall— unsullied  array  of  Christian 
champions  who  nuiy  indeed  sing  from  over  the  battlements  of 
Heaven, 

"Waft,  waft,  ye  winds.  His  story 
And  yoii,  yc  waters,  roll, 
Till,  like  a  sea  of  glory. 
It  spreads  from  pole  to  pole." 


LIKUTEHANT  CHARLES  W,  ClUft,  U  S.N. 


DR.  J.  M    AMDLEK,  U.S  N. 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    OIIEAT    WHITE    WOW-U. 


311 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

THE  DISCOVERY  OF  FRAXZ-JOSEK  LAND. 

luced  nay,Kat„rH  t,.  keep  away  fr,,,,,  tl„.  i,-o.„a,-k  nf  Ea"t 
lliei.  the  A.  stnans  .s,„iKht  and  fo„n,l  an  a,-,e.,»ible  j;ate,v„y  t„ 

"tped.tl,  u  uniler  the  j„i„t  eouiniaii.l  „f  Lieutenants   'iver  nil 
Weyprecht,  each  of  when,  had  seen  se.viee         ,,!   a  . vio 

Oermaa  e.xpediti,,,,,  was  sent  ont  in  .1, ,  177       n 

s  "hUff  vessel,  the  "Isbj-.rn,"  „nt  r,n  fee,  i„  le  ,.  1      7   n  w  fth 

of  forr;.o;:'a\;,;^' :;;;;;';'?■■■■:''-■■■'■"■ '"-i^H"^ 

The  tesnlts  of  ,l„.  vo.va«e  were  l,i,.,l,  sail,  '.etorv. 
it  was  shown,  •  • 

'^ii^^:^:::=;c:s.:::^ 

north  irart  it  was  only  100  fatlionis  deep 
trate'the  t  '"'"  m"'"  '""''''"  ^^^"■'^'''""^  'l.ad  failed  to  pene- 
ivea  in  the  ,oe  too  early  in  the  season— before  the  i,..  i...,i 

Pu'h'':,^"";',^"''"*""'^  '-•'--  »-'n.n  power.        '"   "■'"' 
P.f.11.  That  the  gulf  .stream  appeared  to  have  great  intlu- 


342 


TUB   SEARCH    FOR   THE   NOUTH    POLE; 


encein  woakciiiii^  tUv  ici-  in  that  iv^-iun.     The  iiiain  cxptMlltioii 
wuH  thcrcfoi'o  ut  once  fitted  out  iimlcr  the  uanic  of  1h»' 

AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN    KXPEDITION. 

The  vessel  st'ciired  was  the  "Te};t'ltho(lV'  h  small  st earner  of 
onlj  220  tons,  havliij,^  a  steam  eiijrliie  of  lOOhoise  power.  She 
carried  fuel  and  provisions  for  two  and  a  half  years,  beiu}; 
overburdened  by  about  thirty  tons.  Hut  even  then,  says  Lien- 
tenant  Payer,  the  hist(uian  of  the  voya<;(',  she  was  "far  nior<' 
eonimodious  than  the  niisenibie  l.ole  in  whirh  eif^ht  of  us  had 
been  crowded  to^-ether  on  our  <.i'eenhind  tour." 

The  plan  was  to  penetrate  the  ice  extendin}^  to  Nova  /end>hi 
durinj»-  the  latter  part  of  August,  and  to  establish  headcpnir- 
tei's  aceordinj-  to  eircunistance.s  and  in  ease  of  the  loss  of  the 
«liip,  to  o'ain  the  interior  of  Siberia  by  the  use  of  row-!  mts. 
No  eommunieation  with  Europe  was  to  be  depended  upon. 
Says  Payer: 

"The  motives  of  an  undertakinj^  so  lonjr  and  laborious  can- 
not be  found  in  the  mere  love  of  distinction  or  adventure.  The 
ubject  must  not  be  the  admiration  of  men,  but  the  extensi(>n 
of  the  domain  of  knowledj^c.  The  «,n'andeur  of  one's  i)uri)OHe 
alone  can  support  him,  for  otherwise  the  dreary  void  of  thinj^s 
Avithout  can  only  be  an  imaj?e  of  the  void  within." 

Sailino  from  liremerhaven  on  the  13th  of  .Tune,  1S72,  the 
"TenfettholT"  took  her  final  departure  a  few  days  later,  from  the 
northern  Norwej>ian  port  of  Tromsoe,  and  was  soon  in  Arctic 
ice.  The  crew,  numberinj;  twenty-four,  consisted  of  (lermaus, 
Italians,  and  Hungarians,  the  orders  being'  {-iven  in  Italian. 

On  Auj,nist  1st  the  vessel  became  beset  in  latit  ude  74°  39', 
longitude  .^)3''.  On  the  next  day  she  broke  throu<«h  into  a. belt 
of  open  water  snrroundin<;  Nova  Zembla.  Rehind  her  was  a 
field  of  ice  10,")  miles  wide.  Sailinji-  northward  along  the  west 
coast  of  Nova  Zembla,  the  staunch  little  vessel  came  to  another 
ice  field  near  latitude  75°  30'. 

In  this  vicinity  on  the  12th  of  Angust  another  vessel  was 
suddenly  descried  on  the  horizcm.  It  proved  to  be  their  oM 
friend,  the  "Isbjorn."     She  had  been  chartered  and  despatched 


OR.    r.IPR    fN    TMR    fiUrOAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


343 


by  tho  K<.h,.ons  pafron  «.f  H xp..,liti„„,  ronni  Wilcz^.k,  fop 


(h 


piirpoNc  of  (Icpositiiij.  a  .supply  „f , 


<l(*nt  to  tho  "T<'K(.(Mion"  at 


known  as  tlio  "Tlircp  ( 


<M'n  Nliore  of  nic  island.     All 


H'<»visioiis  ill  rase  (»f  arci- 
a  place  on  (lie  Nova  Zciiibla  coast 

i(>  noiili- 


otliiis,"  near  Caiu' Nassau,  on  il 


^niallasaiiiii^r(.,..,n  Hhould  I 


were  ^n-atly  astonished  that  so 


a  dist 


anco 


)('  able  to  pcnct  rate  the  ur  to  such 


On  the  18tli  th 


of  the  Kin^  and  I 

ny. 1 1     . 


o  crews  of  both  vessels  ceIebra(<Ml  the  birth 


Two  dajH  later  the  sh 


'^niperor  of  the  Austrians. 


r'ranz-Josef  1. 


l"rnMi;r„outli,  tlie"Te};,.tthofT 
^VheIl  but  a  few  inih.s  off  tl 


ips  parted  company,  the  "Isbjorn"  r^ 


same  day,  the  further  progress  of  the  "'1 


proceedlnj,^  northward. 

ic  cajH',  on  the  eveninjr  of  the 


•"ally  stopped  by  an 
<>«*r,Teast. 

"Ominous  were  th 


'('{.vllhoir"  was  etlec- 


Ico-barrier,  in  latitude  Hi"  22',  loii<.il 


ude 


o  events  of  that  <lay,"  says  Pavor,  "for 
<'•'  we  had  made  the  TeoetthotF  fast  to  that 

sides,  and  we  became 


immediately  aft 

""<S  the  ice  closed  In  npon  us  froii'rall 
prisoners  in  it 


s  j^n-asp.     No  water  was  to  be  seen  around 


and  never  a«ain  were  we  destined  t 


Fr<»m  day  to  d 


At  first  we 


ox 


i».V  we  hoped  for  the  hour  of 


us, 
(>  see  our  vessel  In  water. 


week;    then  at  tl 


pcctcd  it  hourly,  then  dailv,  then  fi 


our  deliveran( 


weather,  then  in  the  cl 


10  seasons  of  tin.  v,.ar  and  <l 


om  week  to 
ian«'e  of  th(» 


never  came,  yof  the  lioht  of  hope  wliici 


lanj^os  of  new  years,     lint  that  I 


lour 


sutferin 

amid  all  the  deprossi 


«■«,  and  raises  hini  above  them  all 


I  sujipoits  man  in  all  his 
never  f/)rsook  us. 


prossincr  infinoncos  of  expectations  cherished 


only  to  be  disappointed." 

Drlftino  steadily  northward,  the  13th  of  October 


motley,  yet  enthusiasti 


found  tl 


MS 


imouj.  them  regarded  the  nnmbe 


0  crow  in  great  peril.     The  superst  it 


13 


with  much  alarm  and  recalled  the ,., 

mittee  of  the  expedition  had  been  selotTod 
that  the  keel  of  the  "Tegettl 
13th;  that  she  was  launclied 
embarked  on  June  13th;  th 


porstitn)iis 


circumstance  that  the  coin- 


on  February  lath 


lofl"  had  boon  laid  on  j] 


Ainil  I3th;  that  tl 


niuarv 


K'  expedition 


It  it  left  Trc.msoe  July  13th;  that 


■.;■■:« 


'h     '¥-i.f 


344 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


mi^ 


thirteen  days  later  the  vessel  stuck  in  the  ice,  and  that  now,  on 
October  13th,  the  temperature  was  at  minus  13"  Centigrade 
the  ship  being  in  great  dang-r  for  the  first  time. 

Their  perilous  situation  is  thus  described  by  the  ever- 
graphic  Payer: 

"Fuishing  on  deck  we  discovered  that  we  were  surrounded 
and  squeezed  by  the  ice;  the  afterpart  of  the  ship  was  already 
nipped  and  pressed,  and  the  rudder,  which  was  the  first  to  eii- 
counter  its  assault,  shook  and  groaned;  but  as  its  great  weight 
did  not  admit  of  its  being  shipped,  we  were  content  to  lash  i( 
hrmly.  Noise  and  confusion  reigned  supreme,  and  step  by 
step  destruction  drew  nigh  in  the  crushing  together  of  the 
fields  of  ice.  *  »  *  According  to  our  usual  custom,  a  por- 
tion of  the  Bible  was  read  cm  deck,  and  this  day  quite  acci- 
(lentkaly  the  portion  read  was  the  history  of  Joshua;  but  if 
in  his  day  the  sun  showed  any  inclination  to  stand  still  it 
Mas  more  than  could  be  said  of  the  ice  at  this  time." 

Immediate  danger,  however,  passed  and  a  house  of  refuge 
was  constructed  upon  the  ice-floe  to  be  used  in  case  of  accident 
to  the  ship.  Time  passed  and  the  holidays  were  celebrated 
with  much  display.  Even  the  dogs  were  allowed  the  privilege 
of  the  cabin.     "The  poor  animals," 

SAYS    THE    KIND-HEARTED   PAYER. 

"were  so  dazzled  by  looking  at  our  lami)s,  that  they  almost 
took  it  for  the  sun  itself;  but  by  and  by  th(Mr  attention  was 
directed  exclusively  to  the  rich  remains  of  our  dinner,  the 
sight  of  which  ap])eared  completely  to  satisfy  their  notions  of 
the  wonders  of  the  cabin.  Aft?r  behaving  themselves  with 
great  jn'opriety  they  again  quietly  withdrew,  all  except 
Mubinal,'  who  appeared  to  be  indignant  at  the  deceitfulness  of 
our  conduct,  inasmuch  as  we  had  allowed  him  to  starve  so 
long  on  dried  horseflesh  and  on  cruslie<l  bear's  head,  while  we 
reveled  in  luxury.  He  accordingly  made  his  way  into  Li«Mi 
tenant  Hrosch's  cabin,  where,  discovering 

A    MOUNTAIN    OF    MACARONI, 

he  immediately  attacked  it,  an<l  warned  us  off  from  ev<M  y 


Ill    OV<'IV 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  345 

s.Ma,...fu„,  wat..l...„,  wa»«t.„o,.  f,.,„„  M.u  l>y  ,,tU.r  „^IZ 

siii  „.;:.,  """'"■""-' "■"'■^""""'■'•"f  1873 ai«o,«»so,i,;u<i 

A    JOYFUL    SURPRISE 
*      *      ♦  '^^^^-    ^^^^^'    I^AND    AT    LAST" 

."  ""■.'■'"''■" ""- -...lo,,  i„  ..m  H  a   iiS::";": ,  "^""■' 

«'"■''• ."...  i...p.-is„„„,™t ;.;  ;;:";;';,:,:;;,:^""  ""■  "'""■-•  •■•"■■■• 

m  recosnifion  of  the  sorvims  of  the 

BIG-HEARTED  WILCZEK 
the  ishiTKl  was  jiistlv  nnmed  iv  h].  1,,.,.  r 

Jocaticu  wa.  ascertained  to  .,e  ia  laHtudrra"  «■   ''"■"«""'""-' 


346 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


'■'•'PHitff: 


Dtirino  the  ousuiug  winter— 18734— the  intellectual  and 
r('li«;iou«  raciilties  of  the  men  were  not  left  untrained.  School 
was  established,  Payer  taking  his  class  upon  the  deck,  the 
"pupils"  fie<piently  warming'  their  hands  by  rubbing  them 
vigorouiily  in  the  snow  Avhilethe  "teacher"  was  often  envelop'Ml 
in  a  frost-cloud — the  condensation  of  his  own  breath. 

"EVERY    SUNDAY," 

says  Payer,  "at  noon  we  celebrated  divine  service.  Under  the 
shelter  of  the  deck-tent,  the  Gospel  was  read  to  the  little  band 
of  Christians  gath(>red  together  by  the  sound  of  the  ship's  bell, 
in  all  that  grave  simplicity  which  marked  the  worship  of  the 
early  ( liristian  Church." 

The  sun  was  absent  125  days  and  during  that  time  sixty- 
seven  ])olar  bears  were  killed,  furnishing  the  party  with  an 
abundance  of  fresh  meat.  M(n'cury  renuiined  frozen  nuiny 
days  at  a  time,  brandy  being  solid. 

On  one  occasion  the  dog  "Ma-tosch-kin"  Avas  killed  and  eat- 
en by  a  bear.  A  few  hours  later  "Sumbu,"  who  had  witnessed 
the  fate  of  his  fellow-dog,  led  some  of  the  men  to  the  place 
where  were  found  the  bones  of  the  jtoor  dog,  and  the  bear  near 
by  them.  The  shaggy  brute  was  immediately  slain,  much  to 
the  delight  of  "Sumbu." 

Concerning  the  dogs  used  on  this  expedition  it  is  interesting 
to  learn  something  more. 

Two  of  them  were  brought  from  Lajjland,  the  rest  from 
nnich  farther  south.  During  the  beset ment  and  drift  of  the 
vessel,  on  one  occasion  the  dogs  in  great  alarm  betook  them- 
selv(^s  to  a  lot  of  chests  and  stared  at  the  huge,  angry  waves 
of  iee  as  they  ros(»  and  roared;  every  trace  of  the  fox  had  dis- 
ai)pear<'d  fr<»m  "Sumbu"  and  he  timidly  and  humbly  ottered 
his  ])aw  to  all  passers  by;  the  Lapland  dog  "Pekel"  licked  Lieu- 
tenant Payer's  hand  and  looked  at  the  ice  as  if  to  ask,  "What 
does  all  this  confusion  uu'an?"  while  the  larg<»  Newfound- 
landej's  stood  motionless,  like  scarc^l  cliamoi,  on  ihe  ])iles  of 
chests. 

Of  the  other  dogs  there  were  "Jubinal,"  the  red  giant,  with 


OR,    LIFE   IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  347 

paws  as  Huge  as  those  of  a  bear,  and  who  had  been  brought  by 
a  Siberian  Israelite  from  the  north  of  Asia,  over  the  Ural,  anil 
so  powerful  that  he  was  the  victor  in  every  light  and  could 
easily  draw  four  men  on  a  sled  oVer  a  hard  level  surface;  everv 
summer  he  changed  his  coat  and  was  then  clad  in  a  dress  of 
eanvas-cloth;  and  "Bop,"  the  weak,  but  wise  one;  "Ma-tosch. 
iviu,   the  grave,  whose  fate  we  noted  above,  and  who,  for  hours 
at  a  time,  would  sit  upon  a  pile  of  chests  looking  demurely 
upon   the  great   white  wilderness;    the  two   Newfoundland 
bitches    No-vay-a"  and  "Zem-ly-a,"  the  iirst  of  which  died  in  the 
('ourse  of  the  first  year,  the  second,  too  lazy  to  <lie,  redeeming 
herself  by  giving  birth  to  "To-ros-sy,"  the  pride  of  the  crew; 
ho  was  a  good  sledge  dog  and  a  good  tail-wagger  besides- 
tor  he  wagged  it  on  deck-waggvd  it  as  ho  foIh»wed  on  the  ice 
-wagge<l  it  when  "Humbu"  stole  his  dinner-and  even  wagged 
It  before  the  mouth  of  a  bear;  then  there  was  "(Hllis,"  the  quar- 
relsome one,  with  body  covered  with  scars,  and  the  lives  of 
the  two  ship's  cats  brought  from  Lapland  charged  against 
iTrt'fT^  scrapper,  but  a  veritable  sham  in  the  sledge;  and 
Pekel,    the  smallest  of  the  Lapp  dogs,  also  a  quarrelsome  crea- 
ture, especially  with  "Sumbu,"  the  hyprocrite-who  always 
made  a  great  demonstration  of  fri,.ndshi,>,  but  invariably  hid 
^hen  the  other  dogs  were  b(Mng  hitched  into  the  sledges;   a 
J,^reedy  and  dissatisfied  being  he,  whose  redeeming  <,ualitv  ^as 
to  be  found  only  in  his  i„to„se  hatred  „f  bears 
^^ith  the  advent  of  the  spring  ..f  1S74  sl.Mlging  parties,  un- 
•ler  the  immediate  c(  mnmnd  of  Lieutenant  Paver,  began  the 
work  of  exploring  the  coast-line  and  the  Iniovuiv  of  Ihcrne.vlv- 

m^ir'  '^"^  :^^'^  «^«*  ''f  ^'--  -^tart.l  on  the  10th  of 
Mauh.  raveling  in  a  northwest  direction,  Hall  Island  was 
discovered  and  named  and  (^ap(^s  TegetthofT  and  Mc(Mintock 
were  designated.  They  were  fouml  to  be  2,500  f(>et  hi<  1.  No 
signs  of  life  wore  met  with,  but  tlu>  party  were  absent  Tn/lv  six 
♦lays.    On  the  lOth 


THE    FIRST    DEATH 

among  the  members  of  the  expedition  occurred. 


It  was  poor 


218 


THE   SEARCH    FOR   THE   NORTH   POLE; 


Kriscli,  the  oujiiiiccr,  whose  cnuu'iatcd  body,  worn  away  by  n 
pulmoiiaiy  complaint,  was  soiTowfiilly  placod  iu  a  coffiu,  cov- 
ered with  a  tlag  aud  a  cross,  and  (U'posited  iu  a  fissure  between 
basaltic  coluiims  aud  theu  covered  with  stoues— his  the  first 
aud  perhai)S  the  only  huuiau  j>rave  iu  all  that  desolate  laud. 

On  the  24th  Payer  crossed  the  channel  sei)aratiuj;'  the  two 
uiaiu  divisions  of  Franz-Josef  Land,  namely,  Wilczek  aud  Zichy 
islands.  The  channel  was  named  Austria  Sound.  Uere  wei-e 
observed  the  terraced  beaches  containing  the  debris  of  organic 
remains— undoubted  evidence  of  the  gi'adual  elevati<m  of 
this  group  of  islands  just  as  North  (heeulaud,  Nova  Zembla 
and  North  Siberia  are  also  known  to  be  rising  to  greater 
heights  above  the  sea.  On  the  journey  Payer  followed  along 
the  coast  of  Crown  Prince  Kudolfs  Island,  and,  on  April  12th, 
attained  the  highest  latitude  nuide  by  this  expedition,  namely 
82°  5',  about  lOO  miles  from  the  ship.  The  party  were  absent 
but  tw^elve  days. 

On  the  29th  of  April  Payer  made  his  third  and  last  sledge 
trip,  this  time  exploring  the  western  portion  of  the  islands, 
notably  McCMiutock  Island.  The  loftiest  elevation  seen  was 
named  by  him  Kichthofen  Peak  aud  found  to  be  5,000  feet  high. 
The  party  were  absent  less  than  a  week. 

On  these  journeys  Payer  was  greatly  assist(Ml  by  the  two 
Tyrolese  mountaineers.     On  one  occat^iou,  Avheu  examining  the 

GREAT  MIDDENDORF  GLACIER, 

the  party  narrowly  escaped  a  terrible  destruction,  the  sledge, 
together  with  dogs  aud  driver,  suddenly  breaking  through 
the  snow  and  falling  precipitately  into  a  vast  yawning  chasm. 
The  barking  aud  howling  of  the  dogs  aud  the  slumtiug  of  the 
man  at  the  bottom  of  the  great  crevasse  many  feet  below  first 
arrested  the  attention  of  Paver,  who  savs: 

"All  this  was  the  impression  of  a  moment,  while  I  felt  my- 
self draAvu  backward  by  the  rope.  Stagg«>riug  back,  aud  see- 
ing the  dark  abyss  beneath  me,  I  could  not  doubt  that  I  should 
be  precipitated  into  it  the  next  instant. 

"A    WONDERFUL    PROVIDENCE 

arrested  the  fall  of  the  sledge;  at  a  depth  of  about  thirty  feet 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  349 

it  .Struck  just  between  the  sides  of  tbo  crevasse,  just  as  I  was 
being  dragged  to  the  abyss  by  its  weight.  The  sledge  havin.^ 
jannned  itselfin,  I  lay  on  n.v  stomach  close  to  the  awful  brinir, 
the  rope  which  attached  n.e  to  the  sledge  tightly  strained,  an<l 
cutting  deeply  into  the  snow." 

Payer  dexterously  freed  himself  and  hastened  U>  the  tent 
where  most  of  the  men  were  and  all  then  ran  to  the  scene Cf 
disaster,  finding  the  unfortunate  driver  nearly  dead  but  suf- 
ficiently conscious  to  be  pulled  up  over  the  ice-cliff.  The  do-s 
were  uninjured  and  lay  quietly  asleep  besirie  their  master. 
I  I»on  being  pulled  up  they  made  great  demoustration  of  their 
gratitude. 

Speaking  of  the  driver,  Payer  writes:  "It  was 

A    NOBLE    PROOF 

Ii,'l'Yh.u  h''  f  7"'""/'»«-t  tl'""«elv,.«  even  in  such  situa- 

0^,    hTT  ,"     "  ;•''"""••''"*'  b"t  thanks,  ac<on„.auie,l  with  a 

■.quest  tl.at  I  w<,„ld  pardon  Imn  if  he,  in  onler  to  save  hiu,- 

self  fr<  m  beios  frozen,  hart  ventured  to  drinli  a  portion  of  the 

.  ""Jonnot:"  '""•'"  "™"  '"  '^^  '"^  "•"-  '"''^■•"'S^  *'  ^^ 

t,„.^j*''  v'"!'"*'"  ^^'  ""  ""''""'  pleasant,  but  with  deep  grati- 
Pi™"  :7,  "'•"■'•■'*-  '--'  "">  -"t-r  reeans  a  pers,f„a,  ^x- 

r^    •";'*""  ""'""  "■■•""■^'  ""•■"  '•■•'«••<''>«.  f".'  the  purpose  of 
obta.mng  „,easnpe.nents,  the  great  Bowrtoin  flh.,ie  ■  of  North 

errand  b;  Lieutenant  Peary,  witli  the  Esliitnos,  Ini-me-nia  an.l 
Po.-doo.„ah  as  nssistantB,  w-e  had  neared  the  Opposite     de 
he  great  frozen  river,  the  width  of  whieh  we  found  to  be  near 
I.V  two  miles,  an.l  were  endeav.,ring  to  make  our  wav  to  a  point 
.m  the    rowning  roek  wall  about  one  hundred  vart    ,li  t-  n 
pon  wh.eh  the  bor.ler  of  the  glacier  was  in.piuging  in  wih 
■onfusion     Beneath  our  feet  a  eontinuous  tren.blin..  sensa' 
t".n  was  felt  as  the  long  ice  tnass  of  the  higher  slope^pressert 
•igninst  that  port:.."  upon  which  we  were  standing,  fearin..  to 
n.ove  lest  some  unfo,  tunate  step  might  involve  us  in  immedrate 


360 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE   NORTH   POLE; 


disaster.  Quick,  sliaiij,  deep-tingliuy-,  riuyiug,  shrieking'  souuds 
frigbUul  euougii,  tame,  uot  as  souud  usually  does,  liorlKontall v, 
but  vei'ticalJy  up  to  our  ears,  seeniiug  to  vibrate  tlirougli  oui* 
feet,  our  limbs,  our  very  bodies,  spitefully  shouting  in  our  ears: 
Why,  presumptuous  man,  hast  thou  set  disturbing  foot  upon 
my  chaste  bosom?  Beware!  Beware!  Beware!  Split— jiu,,],. 
—crash— Off !    Away!    Away! 

Who  wouid  not  have  been  alarmed?     With  deep,  subdued 
tones  peculiar  to  the  hardy  dwellers  of  the  north  the  natives 
first  gave  expression  to  their  feelings  and  then  burst  into  the 
oft-repeated  exclamations,  "Ca-pe  Wung-ah!  Ca-pe  Wung-ah!" 
—"I  am  afraid!  I  am  afraid!"  and  although  individual  danger 
was  lessened  by  means  of  a  long  ag-loo-nah,  or  line  of  walrus 
hide,  fastened,  at  one  end  about  the  waist  of  Poi-doo-nah,  a 
bright  young  fellow  of  about  sixteen  years,  and  at  the  middle 
point  about  the  waist  of  old  Im-me-nia,  no  amount  of  persua- 
sion could  induce  tliem  to  advance,  as  the  writer  endeavored 
to  direct  their  movements  toward  a  particular  ])oint  and  in  line 
with  Lieutenant  Peary's  theodolite,  erected  on  the  opposite 
shore  of  the  glacier,  and  now  nearly  two  miles  distant.     Less 
guarded  than  the  natives,  for  the  reason  that  I  followed  in  their 
tracks,  I  simply  held  the  other  end  of  the  line  in  one  hand  and 
an  Alpine-stock  in  the  other.     Suddenly  Poi  doo-nah  dropped 
more  than  waist-deep  into  a  snow-tilled  fissure,  and  hardly 
was  his  alarm  expressed  in  a  round  of  frightful  Eskimo  than 
— Miiish!  down  went  the  snow-bridge  upon  Avhich  the  writer 
was  standing  in  the  very  tracks  made  by  the  natives  but  a 
moment  before.     My  feet  striu-k  and  broke  the  icicles  which 
were  clinging  to  the  edges  of  the  crevassc-walls  and  away  thev 
Avent  in  broken,  jingling  jangling  confusion,  striking  ever  anil 
anon  against  the  deep  walls  of  the  <hasm  until  the  sound  died 
away  like  the  distant  tinkling  of  sleigh-bells.     What  on  firmer 
footing,  or  indeed  any  footing  at  all,  would  have  renunded  one 
of  happy  hours  at  (»ur  distant  home,  served  on  this  occasion  to 
awaken  feelings  of  the  solemn  death-kiudl.     Fortunately  tlie 
Alpine-stock  struck  the  edges  of  the  fissure  transversely  and 
the  right  hand  involuntarily  grasped  it  tightly;  the  left  hand, 


OR.    LIfE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  351 

too  n„t  knowiiij..  ,vhat  the  right  han.l  did,  roraaiood  true  to 

ho  1.0  l.given  „„,M,lse  of  «elf.,„.o,ervatiou  au.l  cluug  ti.'h  tv  to 

li-  eud  o   the  liue.     \Vith  word«  of  eueourage.mMit  1  w  e  ,,  a 

'!> K^kly  dlseuguged   ln,„»eif  and  ca.ue  to  the  re^eue       V  ,1 

■      «  .™  |.  1  wa»  <,ver  aiK.  „e  were  at  a  »afe  di»ta„        "•,oo I 

.    K  ,  „,„  „  romul  l,|a,.i<  h„|„  „„  t,,,  „„„„.  „.,,..,   ^,         '- 

r  i  ,.  I'  >:'"•""»'<■'-»"  Kuil-le»«!  Ah-ha!  Aleha!  tin 

K'o,  imsle!  jiMf;le.ja.,sle!    beware!   beware' 

hc>t  "tl!  '''vS'lbi'''"'';''  ^'■•""-'"«'f  '."■"!  'it  wa«  fouad  that 
III  an^\  ()tii(»i'  Arctic  loca   fv  vet  discovorp.i      tiw!  i 

Xotwilhstandins  there  weiv  many  ai„l  ureal  -laeier.  ,ao 

-  -eatlie,,  and  the  ,.„,d  blaek  wa„«  were  often  s         1  're 

t"^;^  'of'thi     '"'  '"  '":•     ^■--rt'»"-«  there  were  f. 
•orati,  ,    V    ;   "       '  """"■"«"  "Pix-itif.'lia.  sih-ne  aeaulis, 

AItli.,uoh  neither  reindeer  nor  nnisk-(.x  was  seen  tliev  -u: 

t;^  "f^^^ t  ^''""''-T»--^"3'  -  the  weste.::^;n ;, ; 

.  onp      fresh  tracks  and  the  excrements  of  foxes  w(4'e  s<vn 

;:^::^.r:;r::.;:Si:h:vr  - -r:e':[,!:t;r  fv''" 

^;n.b,a.es,,f^.„,a, „„„„,,.., >.  ^al^- 1:;':,  at^ 

rier,.,  too,  were  seen  many  i.el.erss,  aial  a.s  bnt  few  are  ever 

I  on,  hale    hat  they  came  fr,m,  som,.  nndiseovered  lan.l  Ivin.v 
north  of  Fran..Jo.ef  Land,  and  therefore  nearer  the  pole.  Ic 


:i 


962 


THE   SEAIlCIl    iron    TME   NdllTII    roLE; 


'• ''"«'■>■•  "■'"'  "•'""  'l«'"P  i"l<'.v«t  OVCT.V  W<.„,l  to  AlVlic  ,v. 

il"^,'™sr  w",' r"""',"'''"""'  '■'■"'"  '"■•  ^'■''""^'^■''  """  ""•  J"^-!"''"- 
tmu.     Ihe  wnte..  coulWouU^-  <..m.-c1»  «uece«,f„l  i,.s„i(.s  fn„„ 

lionlr'i.f'M,"  '">"•  r '  "l"'"  """""  ''"■"  '■■^l'''"''"  ""''  "" 'I  '•' 

.mal  „f  „.,.,.,.«„,.„  i„  „,,i,.|,  .„.  ..,„"«.■■«  .,,.1,1  ,l„.i;     i„  , 

•'  ''    '"""«  "!'■ I.V  xp^t  l«„  «•!,.(,.,.«  in  tlu.  i,.,.   ii  w,s    , 

<• ,Mve  (h,.  "TracKI,,,/)"  iml  f,. I     ,1    • 

by  ,„„„,«  „f  sle,i„,.  a,m,,.,a|  '"''  "'""'  "'"^^  *""" 

mrtl  wert  ,..,a»,  „f  ,i,. |„„„,  „„. 

-,v,„j,  „,»„,  „„t  ,,„,,,  ,,„„„^.„.,,_  ,,^^.;,  .„^7,.,„,„.,,,^  ; 

lo  ,,,,,«.,,,,,  ,.,„„  te„  wm,  »„  „„„.„  „„.,,  ,„„,  , <  „„,,.,„. 

ion  fill,  ,,ct  joyous  ,l,.pa,-t,iro.    Aft,.r  haviiit;  »(,.„,rj,|,,i  „„,,,, 
wa,.d  fo,-  two  months  a  s„„tl,  win.l  arose  nn,r,.,..,v,rr      ,      ,    " 
n,,rthwar,l  to  a  position  but  nine  n.ilos  so„tl,  of  ti„.  sl,i      "n  , 

A,  CtTo"""."  h'  "'™'"'"' ''""  """■^  P>-"I>Hi,.«»an.l  ti„'mtl,  of 
Angnst  fonnd  tlien,  i„  latitu.le  Tr  49'-f,.,.o  of  ioo  and  on  tl„. 
I>leasant  waters  of  Nova  Zenibla  Sea.    But  tlie 

POOR    DOGS— 

ther,.  was  no  room  for  tlioni  in  tlie  boats,  an,l  witl,  ,le,.p  sorrow 

kin  IZ,!      '  ""■•' '""'  '"■'"' ""  '"""""^'  "■'''■"  '"^"K"-'  "■ 

(■o.^s,'  '™K*'''. "»  '1"^'  24tl,  of  August,  wl,e„  near  (ianse,  or 
<()««",  Lam],  m  tl,e  southern  part  of  Nova  Zembia,  two  I  us- 
s.an  vessels  hunting  for  flsh  an,l  Nova  Zen.b.a  reimlee  e  . 
eue,  th,Mn,  an,l  on  tl,e  3,1  of  S,.pten,ber  they  were  lan,i;,l  „t 
^..,1,,,  >,„.way,  where,  two  days  later,  thev  embark,.,!  for 
Ilaniburg  „n,l  in  ,lne  tin,,.  land,.d  an,ong  their  eountrv  n,.n 
wh,,  re,.eived  th,.,n  with  patrioti,.  ,le,„onst;ations  I,""' 
Before  leaving  this  ehapter  let  us  ll,ank  Li,.nt,.:"nt  W.y. 
pr,.ehtl^,,r,l„.skillf„l  n,nnn,.rin  whi,-!,  h,.,„anag,.d  ll„.,„  i 
t.o„  of  (,„.  "Tegetthoft,"  an,l  also  the  .Norwegian  walrus-     T,  - 


--'^■n^^i.--l^, 


o  Ai'ctic  IV- 
lie  Jacksou- 
cr  tlu'  (nics- 
'osuMn  from 

1(1  iiaiiicd  in 

sli;;lil  tcsli- 

K'ii'  fi-iciHls, 

il  was  (Ic- 

wa.v  soiilli 

onfy  years 
iH'c"  on  the 
cii-  rcd'cal. 
its  and  the 
k  (heir  sot'- 
;I<'(1  sontli- 
Iicm  aj^ain 
ship.  Tin- 
tli('15fli()f 
111(1  on  the 


'op  sorrow 
obliged  1() 


<}anse,  or 
tAVO  liiis- 
ideor,  res- 
laiidod  at 
urked  for 
nitryiiicii, 
j'reat  joy. 
nnt  W<>y- 
ic  navi_i>ii- 
!nis-liniif- 


Lieut.  R.  E.  Peary,  C.  E.,  U.  S.  N. 

(SeeChiiprerXLll.) 


Little  Auks  on  Sea  Ice. 

iSi'i-  imifc  S3."),  etc.) 


<'r,  Ski  PIMM-  ('a,-! 


OR,    LIKE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


36a 


s« 


note  tluit  it  was  h,.  n| 


•I,  for  his  able  nsHist. 


»"<•«';   and  let  UH  uIho 


covered  oij  tho  uoi-nicast 


'"'*•"  '''•'^'^'•ofS,.p(,.,nl,o,-,  l^<7 


the  I 


ninsof  Haiviirs'I 


'•<''••-<  of  Nova  Z(.mhh.,i,Hatitudo7(r 


•^'x  \vi(i(s  and  fllh'd  wit) 


'oiisc,  a  I'ooIh'HSNh'iKd 


"•^i*'>«'>sJ)oxos,h(M,ks,(.tc,and 
as  may  be  vciifjcd  by  \ 

'""••^o  of  I  ho  „ld  iro-nil 


"  H'o  and  onivj.]  ,.„„| 


"otcii  fret  h»n 


'«> 


iiuinn  hoiischohl 


whicli  he  .sold  for  KLSOO 


VH'Wili;.-    (he   ((dh'ct 


crowns. 


Mai'khani  writ 


pilot  at  The  II 


"on  in  the  restored 


cs: 


aiiiio 


K'cfei 


i'«"«'  to  this, 


«v 


N 


o  ni 


in  had  entered  the  h,nelvdw(dl 


diseoverersojouriMMldu 


inM  where  the  fan 


thi 


ce  centnries.     T] 


'■inji  Ihelouo  ■^viuterof  mjH;  f, 


lon.s 


plaee,  the  old  eiock  ...... 

'I''inkin«-v,.ssels,  iheinst 


'cre  sto.xl  tile  cookin-pan 
•«ain.st  the  wall,  tl 


)r  nearly 
ovei'  the  fini. 


i,  tlio  arms,  the  to.ds,  th( 


"'<' weary  iiours  of  that  I 


'"•ncnts  and  the  books  that  1 


"'<' niosttonchino.  relic  is  tl 


<»n«,Mnht27r». years  b(>for(..     iv,h 


'■'  little  cabin-lM 


'<*  pair  of  small  si 


loes. 


'<'Ms  ns,  durinji'  tl 


'yanHmotheerew,whodied,as( 


Thei 


>oi;niled 


'o  was 


III 


«•  been  left  behind.     Tl 
IliJit  poor  boy,  which  still 


K'  winter.     This  a 


ceo 


lore  was  a  flute,  t 


,  as  ( Jerri t  de  Ver 
lints  for  the  shoes  h, 


av 


«ives(»nt  a  few  notes." 


•o,  once  played  by 


flEOKUEW.„K,.v,U,,c,„tKlS.:,.VEU,,„,„. 


UEUTENiNT  JOIIV  w    DA.VENHOWEB.  D.i 


864 


THE  SEARCH   FOll  THIS  NOllTIl   1' 


OLE; 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

THE  ENGLISH  EXPEDITION  OF  1875-O. 

FaNt  l<»siiii«-  her  hini'dly  f«.i.  fi.     i- 
"f  ""HI,,.,,,  l,M„ls„,i  ,      ,        ""■  .•''■"'■""■'■.v  a».l  ,.x,,l,„.ati„u 

"""I  "-'■ ..,    ,',■,'"  .::"■".""•■  "'>■'-' i»"i"",  Hn. 
"'•"  «l,i,.|         ,  """"  ^'"""X"""  "■"'»  .l,..l,.(l,a,.f,v 

e",,:  „"'•;„;:,:;;"  "f "'"  ""■  ™'i'-  i-n„„<n„ «..,;: 

-u":;j;:;:;;:;;r,,:.';:::';;;^::-'v^^'''''''"^''^^^^     

(! ,,„|,i,.., I     '".'"'"'>    •  'M">''l„s„„,  |„.,.si(l,,,t  „f  Ml,.  I!„v„l 

J^^Hs  .onli.nu.I  unaI».«<Ml  till  iM-Ml^Mth  i     is"-.        /  ' 

an  ••xpHlifi 0  '      '    ":  •^";'"''"""'"^  ^'^v.  i,s  san.Mon  (.. 

wh.l.."I)is.ovo      '''  ;    1  r  'rn'""'''*'  ""'^  •''  ^''"  ^'^*^""- 

<ai>ta,n,aft,.nva..<lsSir,(j.oro.oNar(.s  ^      ^    '''" 

S<M(,n<linc()i,miarMlwasr<,niinan(]or  A   11  vimH 

v--Istln.fl.a.nMWp.d       :.      H^h^^^^^ 

was  r'fl.it,  !„  |[    10  V,,,.,,  ■         '"■"li''  "t  III,.  "I),s,.,)vi.rv" 

"••'■'  'I.  I'.  .stopl,o„«,n.    All  tol,l,  til,,  cmiplement  ,if 


ij^ain,  and 
^'lii'isiijiii 
\i'ctic  cx- 
Iho  Ho.val 
4'<'<»jii'a|>li- 
I'ctic  snl»- 
l>y  iiiajiv 
iK-lion  (u 
'iini-sl()(i|) 
K'  slcaiii- 
■oiniiiaiid 
Icrt"  was 


OR.    LIFR    IN    TMK    GRRAT     VVHITR    WORLD. 


sr.fi 


'7;.»"'"bmMl  120,  many  of  whom  hml 


service 


Hcen  pn'vioiiH  Arctic 


%ni(.24Hi(»f.j„| 


«»f  Melville  Hav.  li 


y,  lS7r»,  |)()tli  v(..sHeF 


a  VI 


aci 


■«»>^N  niinin'M  J{av,  wl 


MM  Nleained  to  Mie  noi-fl 


'n  Were  lievond  the  i 


iw<'st  fn»iii  I>i 


•  ••'Mti-al  ic 


"'•'^  <»•«  Hie  date  nieniioned.  tl 


ce 


SCO. 


th 


<'.v  succeeded  in  | 


i;'«<''<  was  struck,  hut  wlnVh,  i„  j| 


,  tile  areat 


hefor 
for  A 


><>rinH:throuo|,  fj 


'i''ty-four  houi 


■<*accompIisl.e<lan<lthat 
i'ctU'  navi^rjiMon. 


II 


IS  perforin injr,,  fVal 
proved  Hie  j-reat  lit  Hit  v  of 


•N. 


never 
steam 


A  nionrii  later  A 


<'i\jto  Ll(>h('r,  the  I 


"JiUNt  24  th,  I  he  ships 


Lady  Franklh,  I{ 


"•lit  reache.l  hv  Ilj, 


arrived  in  safety  at 


lU 


'''""f  •' «"od  harhorsh(dt,.r;.,l  hv 
^'•anklin  IJay  ^ 


y«'s  in  iSdO.     IJoundinn' 
an  island  was  found  in 


musk  cutti 


'*<S  on  the  f,,|i 


%  the  loth  of  (>, 


«'P<'aceful|y  n,..,zi 


owino-  nM»rniiin,  was  seen  a  herd  (,f 


n«<>n  the  fresh  A  ret 


secured  and  at 


t<»her  thirty-two  of  tl 


flesh 


«>i'«'  time  more  than  a  to 


nine 

ic  vej^etation. 

'«'«<'  animals  had  been 


^vas  hannino.  f,.,,^^^.,,  ^^ 


Peared  and  remained  al 


»'*  "•^<'.     On  this  (lav  tl 


"  and  a  half  of  tl 


leir 


'I)i 


ten 


scovery"  remained  f 


•Pf'J'atiire  of  the  I, 


'•^«*"t  l.T.  days,     hi  this  harl 
•'''>^«''iinfortenamlahalfmontl 


"'  sun  <lisap- 


»or  the 


toStr  ah( 


Me 


'vc  zero  throiiuhont  tl 


'  """  «  II. Ill  moiit  lis 

'''''';■  ''^'••'-'^  ^vas  maintained  at  froi 


le 


niwhile,  the  "Alert" 


tliPP  north.     ()„  th,/;ji 


'<»  winter, 
established  her.self 


Tl 

om  48° 


shi 
S2°4 


'""  K'ol)e.son  CI 


r^  ''f  Aiiouj,,  sheiittained 


P,_andonly21'.soiirh(»f  I 


''•""el,  thehiolM.st  b„n„., 


in  quarters  far 
hiMtnde  S2° 


<'  <'V<'r  reached  bv 


,  north  of  Spit zb 


by 


In  Ifobesou  (Mi 


t'ri>en, 


«'Ji'y'«  limit  by  sled -e  in  is2 


(,  VIZ. 


di 


a  narrow  lane  of 


"inel  the  .sea  and  land- 


^appeared,  the  ln»,„M|.f, 


>vater  which,  off  ( 


bpins  thereby 
Ji'reat  ic«.  mass( 


ico  were  separated 
•P<'  Sheridan,  entiivlv 


>•'  northern  exit   int(»  the  I 


<'om,,let(dy   N.cked    by   tl 


o 


lar 


sea 


'•'   union  of  the  two 


Th 


e  ( 


"loshelviuL'led 


'7'»«t-i,  e  was  in  the  form  of 


feet  and 


f?  '('does  which  rose  h 


.iJi«Ji<'d  paraj)et,  frin 


S'lnu' 


U 


were  broken  h 


'•'"''^■<''*«'«<''H'i«htof  twent 


aving-  pa.ssed  the  north 


<^re  and  there  by  deep,  gljsl 
'  northeast  nninf  ..e  /^ 


■•«t  point  of  (Jrant  LamI,  wh 


(Ml  in '•ravines. 


ich 


356 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


Hayes  had  so  longed  to  reach,  Nares  found,  not  an  "open  polar 
sea,"  but  instead  a 

"SEA   OF   ANCIENT   ICE," 

of  great  age  and  of  great  thickness;  for,  in  place  of  being  five 
or  six  feet  thick,  as  had  been  the  case  of  the  new  floes,  or  ten 
or  twelve  feet  of  the  old  floes  encountered  in  the  channel,  it 
rose  to  a  height  of  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  above  the  sui-face 
of  the  water  and  had  a  total  depth  of  from  eighty  to  one  hun- 
dred twenty  feet,  and  resembled  a  connected  chain  of  low, 
flat-topped  icebergs.  In  the  midst  of  such  ice,  where  the  sub- 
merged portion  extending  to  the  land  left  a  sufficient  water- 
way for  the  ship,  the  "Alert"  found  safe  winter-quarters  and 
was  soon  frozen  in  by  the  newly-formed  shore  ice. 

On  the  21st  of  September,  Lieutenant  Aldrich,  accompanied 
by  Adam  Ayles,  left  the  "Alert"  with  two  sledges  drawn  by 
dogs,  to  lay  out  a  route  round  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  on  the  north 
side  of  Grant  Land,  for  a  large  party  which  was  to  follow. 

On  the  25th  Commander  Markham,  with  Lieutenants  Parr 
and  May,  started  with  three  sledges  to  establish  a  depot  of  pro- 
visions to  the  northwestward  as  far  as  might  be  found  prac- 
ticable. 

On  the  27th  Aldrich  and  Ayles  reached  latitude  82°  48',  and 
from  the  summit  of  a  mountain  two  thousand  feet  high,  des- 
cried a  wide  expanse  of  land  to  the  northwestward  as  far  as 
83°  7',  with  high  mountains  on  the  south.  They  returned  to 
the  ship  on  the  5th  of  October. 

After  an  absence  of  nineteen  days  Markham's  party  also  re- 
turned. They  had  established  a  depot  in  latitude  82°  44'  and 
traced  the  coast  two  miles  farther  to  what  may  be  considered 
the  exact  latitude  reached  by  Parry,  north  of  Spitzbergen,  near- 
ly a  half  century  before.  The  thermometer  ranged,  during  this 
trip,  from  15°  to  22°  below  zero.  The  party  numbered  twen- 
ty-four men,  eight  of  whom  were  severely  frost-bitten. 

MeauAvhile,  Lieutenant  Rawson  sought  to  communicate 
with  the  "Discovery,"  in  Lady  Franklin  Bay.  The  ice  in  the 
channel,  however,  was  found  rotten  and  unsafe  within  nine 
miles  of  the  ship  and  piled  up  thirty  feet  high  along  the  shore, 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THE    GRKA't     WHITE    WORLD.  357 

the  deep  snow-drifts  in  the  ravines  also  rendering  the  over- 
laud  route  impassable. 

iuJm!  ''T^''''  '^'''  '^'''^  pleasantly  passed  on  both  vessels.  Of 
th(,  hf  y-five  men  composing  the  crew  of  the  "Alert"  only  two 
could  be  found  who  could  not  read.     Besides  a  school  for  L 

atiical  entertainments  arranged  for  the  enjoyment  of  all 
issntT'n  "'''"'  '""'"^^  ^  I^""*'°S  Pr^««'  «"^1  f»>>'"  these  were 
Zlei's!  otc!"'"'''"'''  ^'"'  ''  '"'"  '"  '''  "''^'^'"""^  "^  ^'^-^^t 

On  November  5th,  the  anniversary  of  the  "Gunpowder  plot," 
^Ui  ,<  awkes  was  burned  in  effigy  upon  the  ice. 

Oil  the  9th  of  November  Captain  Nares  writes: 

io-day  the  moon  reappeared  above  the  southern  horizon 

lier  movements  are  so  important  to  us  that  a  monthly  bulletin 

IS  published  giving  the  precise  account  of  when  she  will  ai>- 

pear  and  when  depart.     She  is  truly  the  'presiding  goddess'  of 

he  ong  Aretic  night;  reflecting,  during  the  event  of  her  visit, 

the  light  of  the  totally  absent  sun  for  ten  consecutive  davs  and 

nights  as  she  circles  round  the  heavens  without  ever  s^ttiu- 

During  some  part  of  her  stay,  full  moon  occurs,  and  she  displays 

woufdT' f  1      r^\   ^'  *'"  ''"^^  ^'  °^^  "^««°'  ''^^'-  ^^'  lig^t 
uould  be  of  least  value,  she  i.  absent  in  southern  latitudes." 

iHristmas  was  spent  as  is  here  related: 

"First  of  all,  in  the  moraing  we  had  Christmas  waits  in  the 

mX  .;n?.r'-     t  '"^''"*  "'  ""'^""^^'  '''''  ^■'''''  boatswain's 
»»ate,  and  three  others,  went  around  the  ship  singing  Christmas 

oarols  suited  to  the  occasion,  and  made  a  special  s^iy  out'de 

Uie  captain's  cabin.     On  the  lower  deck  in  the  forenoon  tl     0 

^ere  prayers,  and  after  that,  captain  and  officers  visited  t^  e 

mess  in  the  lower  deck,  tasted  the  pudding,  inspected  the  dec' 

orations  which  had  been  made,  and  so  on.    Then  the 

BOXES    OF   PRESENTS 

by  friends  in  England  were  brought  out,  the  name  of  him  for 
and  the  presents  were  then  distrihnf^^  by  ^^p  rsrf-^-      — 


^58 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


ing  cheers,  wliieli  soiiiided  strange  enough  in  that  lone  phiee, 
were  given  for  the  donors,  some  of  them  very  dear  indeed  to  the 
men  who  were  so  far  awa.y  from  their  homes.  Cheers  were  also 
given  for  the  captain,  and  for  absent  comrades  on  the  "Alert." 
A  choir  was  then  formed,  and  'The  lioast  Beef  of  Old  Eng- 
land' had  its  virtues  praised  again." 

Fresh  meat  was  had  in  abundance  on  each  ship.  Fish, 
beef,  and  mutton  bi-ought  from  England  hung  upon  the  masts^ 
frozen  hard.  Sheep  had  also  been  brought  and  these  were 
killed  from  time  to  time. 

HUNTING    PARTIES 

were  also  quite  successful.  Those  from  the  "Alert"  secured 
SIX  nnisk-cattle,  three  foxes,  twenty  hares,  ten  ptarmigans, 
twenty-six  ducks,  and  seventy  geese. 

Those  from  the  "Discovery"  were  even  more  successful,  es- 
pecially as  relates  to  securing  musk-oxen,  hares,  and  seals. 

On  the  29th  of  February  the  sun  reappeared. 

On  March  12th  Lieutenants  Egerton  and  Rawson,  with 
,  Christian  Petersen,  the  interpreter,  attempted  to  open  com- 
munication with  the  "Discovery,"  but  returned  on  the  l(>tl, 
Petersen  having  completely  broken  down.  His  hands  weiv 
paralyzed  and  his  feet  so  badly  frozen  that  it  became  necrs- 
sary  to  amputate  them.  Three  months  later  the  unfortunate 
man  died. 

Somewhat  later  the  attempt  was  resumed  with  two  sea- 
men,  this  time  with  success,  and  the  coiijx^ration  of  sledge  par- 
ties from  both  vessels  thereafter  established. 

PROM    THE    "DISCOVERY" 

an  exploring  party  of  eight  men  under  Lieutenant  Beaumont 
crossed  Kobeson  (^lannel  on  the  broken  and  moving  ice  and 
explored  the  Orcpuland  coast  to  latitude  82°  18'.  Two  of  the 
men  died  of  scurvy  before  reaching  Polaris  Bay. 

ILiving  reached  the  limit  of  Ids  journey,  Beaumont  turned 
toward  the  sliip,  but  four  more  of  the  men  soon  vielded  to 
fatigue.     The  three  not  disabled  now  hauled  not  only  their 


lese  were 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  353 

four  exhausted  comrades   hut  .ii«,.  fi 

Pledge,  makiug  the  ,'„man    ,ft,?        "™*?""»'  ""  "  -"S'lc 
same  piece  uf  m,ml    i!         ,  "-'  ""''  ""'<■'•'  "^«-  ""■ 

loads.    Saj.«L,"I:  '        ''"'■'"*''  ""•■  ''""''•'  '°  ^^Po-'-te 

.i.e;  m:rr:,:'ra''H;"bu:':'  """r""^-  """■"'''' "'-""' » 

^  "r  muL  a  uaj,  Out  iiever  losino  haart  " 

pio^eTrnTtt'  "  '^"^■'  ''»"^-  "-'-'"^'  <-'  «at.„„,  D.  Cop- 

FAMOUS   ESKIMO   HANS, 

or  tJie  Kane,  llavf^s    mwI  ii..n  ,.  . 

savc.u,,eh. /ivtr  '^,;  "^,,  .'""  f  l'".l't'.m»,  '<'""<!  then,  and 

visions  left  by  the  4o  •    3  !     '"  ""'"'  *"'■  '''^'""  "^  l"'"" 

I>m8erexph,4nvt;™  r^,-i;;;,r"'"f  '"'.'""■'^  """  '"••  <'"P- 
a  deep  slaeier  front    t  '       '  '^"""''  "  '"  tein.inate  in 

132  da;».  •    ^"^  "'"■•^' ''"'""'"«'  ""«<'«  from  the  «hip 

r"  .ftenaTL?''*'"  ^»"'"  «"""  '"»'  «•■'»  """«>• 

Us  i.e:;rrt',itei  Deris'  .:r;'i'  ?'"'""  ''"^- """  '"-" 

■aountains  and  gIad!::fl';M";'.;i;;;',:"  ''■  «'"™-'J«'<'  "y  lofty 

FROM  THE   "ALERT" 

-xcept  /he't:;  ■;;:;::'::;'  XtH;"""'"^' '" "'«"'  "'■>-'' 

1""  was  foMnuatelv  met  1  ■?  '   .  ^  ""*  '  """ '''''"™ 

aasistinhanIin-f„„,.,iL,i  '  "'•'■  "'"'  »''"'  "ble  to 

iia.Muon;b;the:i;,f,:;'';;:;;'r:,;:''''''-'«-"'"-t-strug. 

nan™;,'""'*  "'^^ '"  '""  ''"■'"'-  J^"--.v  -  "ow  to  be  related, 
over  the  sea-iee  "^'"'''^"■^  ^'•'=°«'=  "™ney 

the  enoiiu^ors  and  tivont,.    :   i  !  '        '  ^^  '"^*''  ""^^  «f 

four  8ledcvos  pnci,  ,i.... «•, '  i  ""^^^  consisted  c.f 


360 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


Wide,  and  about  niiie-teutlis  of  a  ton  of  provisions  to  each 
sJedge. 

For  the  fli'st  few  days  good  pixjoress  was  made.  Upon 
reaching  the  depot  of  provisions  left  at  Cape  Joseph  Henry  in 
the  previous  season  the  party  were  rearranged,  Marlihaiu  and 
1  arr  pushing  on  over  the  rough  and  liuminoclcy  "sea  of  ancient 
lee  '  witli  fifteen  men  and  three  sledges. 

The  difiiculties  of  the  journey  will  be  inferred  from  a  few 
of  Markham's  journal  entries: 

"April  10th:  Distance  made  good,  one  mile;  distance 
inarched,  seven. 

"12th.  1^  made  good;  9  traveled. 
"17th.  1^  made  good;  9  traveled. 

"18th.  1  mad^e  good;  10  traveled  and  ten  hours  to  do  it" 
On  the  19th,  one  of  the  boats,  weighing  eight  hundred 
pounds,  was  left  behind,  it  being  necessary  to  lighten  the  loads 
ov/ing  to  the  disablement  of  two  of  the  men  by  an  attack  of  the 
scurvy,  thus  making  it  necessary  to  haul  them. 

Upon  quitting  the  boat  its  inast  was  decorated  with  red 
cloths  to  serve  as  signals  upon  the  return  of  the  party. 
Thus  the  snail-like  journey  was  continued.    Says  Nares- 
'  The  journey  was  consequently  an  incessant  battle  to  over- 
come ever-recurring  obstacles,  each  hard-worn  success  stimu- 
ating  them  for  the  next  struggle.    A  passage-way  had  always 
to  be  cut  through  the  squeezed-up  ice  with  pickaxes,  an  extra 
one  r)eing  carried  for  the  purpose,  and  an  incline  picked  out 
of  the  perpendicular  side  <.f  the  high  floes,  or  roadwav  built  un 
before  the  sledges-general ly  one  at  a  time-could  be  brouoj.r 
on.    Instead  of  advancing  with  a  steady  walk,  the  usual  means 
of  progression,  more  than  haif  of  each  day  was  expended  bv 
the  whole  party  facing  the  sledge  and  pulling  it  forward  a  few 
feet  at  a  time." 

On  the  30th  of  April  a  dense  fog  was  encountered  and 
threatened  to  entangle  them  in  a  labyrinth  of  hummocks. 
They,  however,  struggled  on  for  t(^n  days,  when  a  stop  was 
made  and  a  camp  for  the  invalids  established  and  left  in  charge 
or  the  cooks. 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


361 


On  the  12tli  Markhan,  aii,l  I'a.r  a^-uiu  sot  out  with  hu,1, 
of  the  men  as  wei-c  able  to  venture  forwar.I,  in  oi-der  to  nialio 
a  (lash  for  the  liighest  jxiiut  attainable.  Tliis  last  march  is 
tlius  related  by  llarkliani: 

"We  had  .s»u,e  very  severe  walking,  throuRl,  whieh  the 
lab,)i  of  draggmg  a  sledge  would  be  interminable,  and  occa- 
sionally almost  disappearing  througli  cracks  and  Ussuies,  nu- 

',li7™,  ^  "•"'""'''  '"  """"■  «■'"'"  »  •""'  »"s  called.    The 
aitificial  horizon  was  set  up,  and  the 

FLAGS    AND    BANNERS    WERE    DISPLAYED, 

these  flnttering  out  bravely  before  a  southwest  .wind,  which 
latter  h„„.ever,  was  .lecidedly  cold  and  unpleasant.    It  noon 

oL ;  off  ,  "'f  '  •"■""'■•'-'  *'"■""  '"""'■■<''' '""'  ""'rtynine  and 
one-hal  n„les  from  the  North  Pole.  On  this  being  duly  an 
nonnced  three  cheers  were  given,  with  one  more  for  raptain 
Nares;  then  the  whole  party,  in  the  e..ubei.ance  of  their'  ph"ts 
laving  rea,.ed  their  turning  point,  .sang  'The  Union  J  cU 
"f  O  1  Knglnnd,'  by  the  grand  paleocrysti,-  sledgin.,  ,.h„rns 
«-.nd,ng  up,  like  loyal  subjects,  with  '(i<,d  Save  the  Qu'en" " 

:::iJ;::;i:;;;;^^^^^^n.y  „,,.«  „„,„ ,,  „.„„^  Jj- ^ 

snh"atWu/^lT*,'"""  ■""'  ^""  "■'■'•''  <■"«'•'■  *"'!">*  "".  but  the 
near  1  "  ,"  '""''  "'^""'"'  """°  "  ''P^'^'ly  reJnru,  for 
uea  ly  all  of  the  men  were  stricken  with  the  scurvy.    Fomed 

Tthe  TnlTr'  •""„  *"»''P""'""'^  near  rape  Joseph  Hen,^ 

for  he  ..omfort  of  his  men.  Parr  set  out  alone  for  the  "VlerT'' 
"."■t.v  m.les  dis,ant.  Sti.unlated  with  the  .-onscio isness  t  nt 
"pon  Ins  e..e,.tions  depende,]  the  lives  of  the  str  '  C  nen   In 

u.  n!;';rPoiur!;';  *;'' ;""  f "  ^•■■'*""  ^"^^^  -■"»  -">  ^i-  «-av 

May  M      • .       '"'  """''  '" "  "■"""•"S  P^'^.v.    Lienteuant 

senf/  .    '  "  ''™"'""-  "ith  a  light  dog  sM"e   were 

»ent  forward  as  a  lightlyequipped  advance  partly  amrrearhed 


362 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


the  camp  fifty  hours  from  Parr's  departure.  In  that  short 
interval  George  Porter,  one  of  the  afflicted,  had  died  and  was 
buried  in  the  snow.    No  other  life  was  lost. 

Of  the  fifteen  men  who,  two  months  before,  had  left  Depot 
Point,  only  three  were  able  to  assist  in  dragging  back  the 
sledges;  nine  had  to  be  hauled  and  three  struggled  alono-  of 
themselves. 

Meanwhile,  Captain  Stephenson,  of  the  "Discovery," 
crossed  Kobeson  Channel  and,  in  the  presence  of  twenty-fo'i-r 
officers  and  men,  on  the  18th  of  May,  erected  at  Hall's  giave 
the  brass  tablet  referred  to  in  preceding  pages.  It  was  indeed 
a  graceful  act  and  one  that  all  Americans  gratefully  acknowl- 
edge. 

In  taking  leave  of  the  narrative  of  tlie  Nares  expedition  it 
IS  interesting  to  note  that  close  to  Cape  Beechey,  six  or  seven 
miles  from  the  eiglity-second  parallel  of  latitude,  were  found 
the 

MOST  NORTHERN  TRACES  OF  MAN 

yet  discovered.  These  were  a  stone  lamp,  a  very  perfect  snow- 
scraper  made  of  walrus  tusk,  and  the  framework  of  a  large 
wood  sledge. 

Upon  the  return  of  Markliam's  sledging  party,  Captain 
Nares  returned  to  p]ngland,  arriving  there  October  27,  187(1, 
after  an  absence  of  sixteen  months,  wilh  both  ships  in  good' 
condition  and  with  a  loss  of  but  four  men. 

Captain  Nares  proved  himself  to  be  a  brave  and  efficient 
officer.  With  Kellet  and  McClintock  he  had  seen  previous  ser- 
vice in  tlie  search  for  Franklin.  The  expedition  under  his 
immediate  command  must  be  granted  to  have  been  a  marked 
success,  only  a  few  closet  critics,  paper  philosophers,  and 
ne'er  do  anything  navigators,  urging  the  contrary. 

The  only  possible  criticism  that  may  be  offered  lies  in  tli(> 
fact  that  the  men  of  the  expedition  liad  not  been  fortified 
against  the  attacks  of  tlie  scurvy  as  had  been  the  officers. 
Had  they  continued  in  as  good  condition  as  the  officers  it  is 
not  <lifficult  to  foresee  that  much  more  might  have  been 
accomplished. 


I 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


363 


ei's,  au(l 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

SCHWATKA-S  EXPEDITION  TO  KLXG  WILLIAM'S  LAND. 

elation.  expeihtio,,   ohcits   our  grateful   appre- 

in  the  matter  of  the  search     'rt'™  ""  ,""""'''  '"""•"^t 
knowledge  already  ac.o,Zr  .,        ^^'"■'  ""''  ""satisfactory 

"".  .leter„,i„edt  mS  7k  t  'Z"'lr '  ""'""  "'  ^'"--""-^ 
Oore  and  Trozier  the  hvw      •     l      '  ""*  "''""'y  '•«'<"-'ls  of 

by  Han,  thatToV^f  /,?!"?'',"'"•''<•'  »"•'  "*'  <-»"fl""ation 

to  arouse  wi  h^S oh  va  L"^'?     ""  "'  ^'"'•"""'"-a"  served 

.-se  Of  Fra:k,f:':r';,:e^rrf  ::,x''"'"-  ""■-'-> 

party  to  search  folTt  ,"'"";' r"f^'?  *"  "S""'-  « 
voyage.    I„  this  he  reeei  e,r  "'*  "'  '"-""klm's  last 

Presideat„fti,e   lelr'n  i    '  si  .  T'"  ""™  "'  •'•'"*^''  ^<"y' 
'■ation  to  be  detaileTl C^     ,       7'"*^'  "'""  ''"l"''''''*' '"«  appli- 

This  .as  r.j;'^:::^';:;t::::!^^zT'  ^^''""'-- 

PRIVATE  SUBSCRIPTIONS 

I'aving  provided    the  neeessarv  nrnv,-.; 

Messrs.  Morrison  and  Brown  «hfn  ^'''''''T.    ''"^   ^^"ipm^nt, 
«Ii«posal  of  the  exned  tToTV     r^"^"''''^^ 
"Eothen/'Cap^i.^F  rrr;%'hr"'^^''^*^""  '^"^''--^^'  ^^- 


364 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


^  The  exploru.g  party  consisted  of  but  Ave  men— Lieutenant 
Schwatka,  in  coniniand;  Mi'.  William  II.  (iilder,  second  in  com- 
mand;  Messrs.  Klut-schak  and  Melms,  already  experieuccMl  in 
Arctic  ice,  and  of  Joseph  E-bier-I)inj,s  the  faithful  "J„e  »  the 
ally  and  friend  of  ('aptain  Hall. 

^      Hefoiv  sailing,  Lieutenant  Schwatka  received  the  followin.^ 
instructions  from  Mr.  Morrison:  *" 

"Upon  your  arrival  at  Kepulse  Bay  you  will  prepare  for 
.your  inland  journey  by  building  your  sledges  and  taking  such 
provisions  as  are  necessary.    As  soon  as  sufficient  snow  is  on 

IZrZf  ?;""  '''"  '*"'*  ^"'  ^'"-  William's  Land  and  the. 
(Milf  of  Boothia.  Take  daily  observations,  ami  whenever  von 
iliscover  any  error  in  any  of  the  charts  you  will  correct 'l  he 
same,  marking  thereon  also  any  new  discoveries  you  mav  be 
fortunate  enough  to  make." 

On  the  7th  of  August,  1878,  the  "Eothen"  reached  Whale 
l-oint,  at  the  entrance  to  Roe's  Welcome.  Here  the  explorers 
were  soon  visited  by  several  of  Hall's  former  Eskimo  compan- 
ions, notably  Ah-niou  (the  wolf),  Ik-ah-mah  (the  tire),  and  Pa- 
pa-tew-ah,  orToo-goo-lan. 

In  this  vicinity,  latitude  fi3°  51/  north,  longitude  00°  2G'  ir," 
west  Schwatka's  little  band  spent  the  winter  of  1878-9,  inur- 
ing themselves  to  the  Eskimo  mode  of  life,  as  Hall  had  don.' 
ntteen  years  previous. 

During  the  winter  and  early  spring  various  sledge  trips 
were  made  m  preparation  for  the  summer's  journey 

TO  KING  WILLIAM'S  LAND. 

^1T  VtT-  ^^"-  ^''^'^''  "*^^*"^  *^^  ^"^»*'»^'  Kin-ne-pa-toos, 
.1  tribe  of  Eskimos,  many  of  whom  had  never  before  seen  n 

white  person.    Lieutenant  Schwatka  also  made  a  nreliminarv 
sledge  journey  northward. 

On  April  1st  the  party,  accompanied  bv  thirteen  Eskimos 
men,  women,  and  children,  began  the  long  journev  northward. 
Ihe  sledges,  burdened  with  two  and  a  half  tons  of  provisions, 
were  drawn  by  forty-two  dogs. 

Six  weeks  later,  on  a  branch  of  Back's  River,  a  small  party 


611,     ttPii     IN     THE     QRPAT     XXTt^rm*, 

UHKAT   WttlTR   WORLD,  345 

»"t  k„,.w  h,„v  t„  got  i„  /,,,'/  '  '"■'  ""  *""  '""!«.«  dUl 
l"«'aJ;tl.a(:  l>o,.ks  were  ,,  n,i  f  ,  ";;""'"■*'!  """  tK-y  »aw  uo 
"-  l.,.,.akh„.  „p  <.fXi :"',;"" '^"  "»  "'""■<' i-'d  that,  witi, 

liei-  to  siuk.  *>"  ""^  ""''"  '■"'  in  lier  side  auU  caused 

Somewliat  later  a  party  „f  Neit-,l,il  li. 
f(>re(t„i„g  information  ,.o„i,ni„.,,      ^"''''  """*  '""•  "'e 
•'"•"■■    Tl,e  plaee  wher,       e  s     if  """  "'"^  "'»«''"""'  b^ 

I""'  """  ''='"  '^•<<'r""ne,l,K',r'rt''. •'""'''''  ""*•    <'''P 
'""JfiMide  Oir  west.  '"  '""*""'''  «S°  »<>'  north, 

'""'b'  in  June  the  sifo  ,,f  n 

'•"l""fn  (>o.ier  was  reaH  ,  1     tk'""  "'■"''"bly  «en,pie,l  by 

'<"«  \Villia„,'s  l,a„d     Til  :  """  ""  ♦""  ■"'"""««1  «f 

AN  OPEN  GRAVE 

""'-"  --tod  "I-on  a  flld  ':'"'';'"',''  '"■"^■'  *"<■  "-ad  of 
al>ly  preserve,].  "  '"^  P'^ket-liaudliercliief  reniark- 

''l">n  a  stone,  at  flie  foot  ,.f  .1 
""'■l'l.v  '>osrin,e,I  silve    „,„  'l  f """'  ''"'  <"»''"v<'ml  a 

"■-.  '-aH„«  upon  i^bsT,""  ,"!'""'"'•"'■"  '"  "'"■"- 
;■"""''"'  by  the  word  <leor4n!r;  ';""'"'  *"""'«"  "'-  «•"- 
"'■•V.  1820,"  and  upon  its "Z "  .  ',  ''•/'•  «'-'««»-nrum 
«-».-'l«  "Awarded  to  John  r,vi „,''  l,  "'"■"""''  '""'  '"e 

-"■l"«''I  by  the  inseripti  a  "8       f;  '"'''""""'■'•.  1830,"  being 
■Vaval  College."  ""'  ^''tb-niathal  Prize,  lioyal 

Aud  thus  was  iMpnfifl^.i  +i 

---»-ash^''-:cra:d^L';:rs:ntr;:::f 

24 


^^^  THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 

ful  rolativoH  in  Scoth.nd,  where  they  were  reinterred  with 
honor,  in  their  native  soii. 

July  was  spent  in  as  thorough  an  examination  of  the  island 
as  was  i>ossible,  t\w  party  advancinj;  about  ten  n.iU^  oa.l. 
Jlay,  and  subsisting,,  upon  ducks,  j.(H.se,  and  reindeer,  the  llesh 
being  eaten  almost  as  soon  as  killed.  The  use  of  so  much  raw 
meat  brought  on  fr(M,uent  attacks  of  diarrhoea.  Numerous 
fairns,  jj^-viously  (Mvcted  by  white  men,  were  found,  but  thcv 
contained  no  important  relics. 

-  ^*  Ki"<'l>a«  Hay  were  found  the  wnn'k  of  a  ship's  boat 
Cloths  iron,  and  human  bones.  Portions  of  four  skeletons 
were  buried  here. 

The  ice  now  breaking  up,  the  party  were  compelled  to  carrv 
everything  on  their  backs  as  they  marched.    Terror  liay  was 
reached  on  August  ;jd,  and  (m  September  19th,  near  (iladman 
1  oiiit,  on  Simpson's  Strait,  winter  quarters  were  establishe<i 
Keindeer  were  seen  in 

IMMENSE     HERDS. 

In  ten  minutes  Too-loo-ah  killed  seven  of  the  summer-fattened 
creatures,  kissing  his  rifle  for  its  good  behavior.    On  the  8()ih 
twenty-six  were  killed,     liy  the  middle  of  October  no  mor.' 
were  seen. 

On  the  10th  of  December  the  party  began  the  return  jour- 
ney, subsisting  upon  salmon,  a  species  of  herring,  and  rein- 
deer. Half  of  the  dogs  died  and  they  were  obliged  to  defend 
themselves  against  the  wolves. 

The  winter,  too,  the  natives  said,  was  unusually  severe, 
the  following  temperatures  (Fahrenheit)  being  recorded: 

Dec.  Jan.  B\^b. 

Average _50°  —53°  _45° 

Minimum — 09°  7]^°  gqo 

Having  left  the  river,  the  party  struck  directly  across  the 
country  for  Depot  Island.    The  region  fairly 

SWARMED  WITH  WOLVES, 

Which  attacked  the  natives  and  killed  some  of  the  dogs.    On 


OR.  u™  m  THE  orbat'wh,™  world. 
the  23(1  „f  |.',.|„„,„.v  a  „„,k  „f  .,„     , 

good  his  e«fui,e  whih.  th..  .,„.l  '"  *«""  ""<'  '""Hf 

-"«Zi' oi:''l!;;:r;i:;;;f ';j;"^        ".e  nuh.  ha„„ 

'■'•u.hed.     II,.,,.  N  -hwifr.    ,  '        '""  '"'"'"'    »■•'«  "W"-|. 

"a-T  had  fa„..„  t.';  Z^^U^^U,^'":"  *'""  •'■'■''"i" 

!'" ""  the  2L,,  thus  ,™i  in :':;  •  V"" """  ■""  ■■""■•'"■" 

journey  ,.f  3,2.,1  statute  u    ,      ,  'j  '  "  '""f  ^ «"  "'"^  '"<-* 

■■™a.-d.  '^  '"""•''  «"l«n,uth,l  and  honorable 


-*"«»»  "'Tvutca^u. 


368 


THE  SEAUCH  KOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


rilAPTl]!}  XXXVTII. 


N()R[)FXSKIOT.TrS  WONDERFUL  VOYAGE. 


Tlic  (liHcovciy  of  (lie  iKtrllicjist  pjiNsjij;*'  I'orms  one  of  llu* 
most  inlcn'sliiin  nnd  iiishiiciivc  of  all  Antic  iijiriiitiv«'s.  Its 
acconipiisimicnt  ma.v  be  said  to  liavo  foniicd  tluMulmiiiation  of 
loiij;  jcais  of  study  and  cffoil  within  Arctic  ice  on  the  part  of 
IM-of.  A.  K.  Noidcnskicdd. 

Indeed,  as  Turner  truly  said  con<('rninji  one  of  his  pjiint- 
inj>s,  that  it  had  re«inire(l  "all  (»f  his  life"  in  \vlii<-h  to  execute  it, 
N(riui«;lit  t  his  persever!n<isch(dar  have  said  of  his  attainment  of 


the  nor 


theast  passajic,  that  it,  too,  was  t  lie  work  of  a  lifetii 


ne 


He,  the  son  of  a  naturalist,  was  born  in  is;i2,  and  spra 


fnim  a  lon^-  line  of  ardent  stmlents  of  nat 
were  travelers  as  wed  I. 


nu 


ure,  a'l  of  who 


HI 


Besides,   they  were   philanthropists,  and  devotediv  ad 


eated  the  maintenance  of  peace  anions  all  Christ 
and  took  active  part  in  ell'orts  for  the  alxdition  of  si 
The  m«.ther  of  Adolf,  the  subject  of  this  sketcl 


vo- 


nin  nations, 


averv, 


I,  possessed 


a  fearless  character  and  was  of  a  respectable  but  bv  no  mean 


illustrious  family.    The  strikinj"  and 


exhibited  by  this  afterwards-c<debrated 


ori«;inal  tyi)e  of  character 


inheritan'-e  in  the  strictest  sense.     It 
familv  likeness. 


son  was  certainlv  an 


s  originality  was  of  a 


Ilaviuj"  left,  for  p(ditical  reasons,  his  native  I 


land,  he  was  mad(>  State  mineralo«>ist  of  Swed 

the  course  of  the  next  tweT:ty  years  he  was  ennam'd  eitl 


iussian  Fin- 
en  in  1858.    In 


ler  as 


n  seven   Arctic 


header  or  jn'ominent  member,  in  no  less  tlia 
expeditions— to  Spitzberjjfen,  (}reenland,  Silx'rla,  etc.  Towards 
the  expenses  of  live  of  these,  Nordenskiold's  warm  friend,  the 
wealthy  Dr.  Dickson,  contributed  liberally.     Other  private 


;e. 

one  of  llic 
tivos.  Its 
liiiation  of 
lu'  part  of 

liiH  piiiiit- 
t'xt'cutc  il, 

UnilKMlt  (if 

lifcliiiK'. 
11(1  spnuiji' 
of  wiioiii 

(ll.V  advo- 
ti  nations, 
I  very. 

possessed 

IIO  Ill(>i|IIS 

character 
taiiily  an 
was  of  a 

isian  Fin- 

1858.  In 
eitliei'  as 
'n  Arctic 
Towards 
'lend,  tlie 
P  private 


Samuel  J.  Entrikin'  ^^"^"  Con^ade-Eivind  Astrup.* 
H,-r..,.<t.ii,.c„„„„,,^,,  yjjg  Author.  George  Kariow  Clark, 


im 


(SivC|,a,,t,>,XM|.    *S,.,.„, 


V»Ki'  iOl.) 


'Niiturali.st, 


F.  W.  Stokes, 

Aiii.-t. 


Eivind  Astrup. 
Dr.  E.  E.  Vincent, 

SlliK'i'cii. 
(SecCliiiptcr  XLII.) 


Jas.  W.  Davidson. 


a 
b 

2v^ 


W.  Davidson. 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE   WORLD 

to   pursue   their  invalu-iblVir  *'""*''""  «''e  times 

«-„.«.,,  a„„  ,„„  att„t;  r'tr;  '"    «''"^''-^-. 

"Tlie  exploring  exDediti,,^.  !  ,  Y  Nerdeusliiold: 
;■»<-.  have  go„e"„„t  ■;  sweln''  '  "t^  *"^  ^'^'^^''t  "<" 
"%'  a«..  a.„.,ire,l  a  truly  „a2„  ,^  *""■'"•"'  ""^  ""''t''-  bave 
'"•"'A-  iuterest  that  ha«  beer  Leu  "'T'""""  '"''""t*  the 
-voucl,  as  well  as  withia  thr  nti  ^  ,  ""'™  ''^''.Vwhere,  be- 
"b'<-  «un,s  of  u,o„ev  "L"  „r  ^  ''  ""•""g'' tbe  consider- 
State,  and  above  all,  bvnriv't  ''"""'  ""  ""'">  by  the 

«;boo,  they  have  for.nifC.o^Tr''' ":'■""«''  "-I"'-*.., 
'"••sts;  through  the  iu,po,*,n:  •'''''  """^  *''^''"'«"  ""tur- 
»"lts  they  have  yielded  fan  Ulrou'hf"  '"'   geographical  re- 
ivsearch,  which  by  then,  I  n!  k    ^^       "  '""*''"'"  '<«•  "•ientiflc 

;••"/■"'  Ht-uu,  a;:d'Xhta.'r.d:^-^" '" "-  '^"•'""'■' 

uatural  objects,  the  richest  in  th^  ',  "  "'"'^''^  "'  ^^«tic 
=>;I.lod  discoveries  and  invest  Ition"!"',  ''"  "">'  •'""'"'"  be 
'bo  future  to  becouj  '^  '^.  l-fj'"'*  "'''  <"'  P'"""--  in 
""'Ple,  the  meteorologi  ,,1  J  I  !,  ""'"'■'''"'oc;  for  ex- 
oxpeditious;  their  con^  el  ensive  h  l?'*''™'''"^''''  "'"■"  "'  t'"' 
""'I  whale  fisheries  in  the   Car  se?   "i"'  ''"^""^'"^  «'«  »™1 

l»-evio«.s,,.„ns„spected  ri<,snfl:;o'H, '"'"""'''  """  <"  *"" 
sen;  the  discoveries  on  Ke»,.  t!>      ,  "  ooastsof  Spitzber- 

embie  strata  of  coa  !:]  los  1  .."tt""  '"'r'""'**™  '"  ™»-"- 
'"  be  of  great  econo„,ic  i  „"  ,7  '  '  """■|'"'»  «'"'b  ai'e  likely 
;.n.l,  above  ail,  the  «ucces  of  t  c"  ^tsT"  '";""*^  """■'*''-' 
jog  the  months  of  the  large  8  ber  ,?  ,t  "■^P''''"'""«  "'  feacl,- 
■»ei-navigable  t-  the  confines  o  A  '"''""'"<'  ••"'  «""  ^eu- 
".  navigation,  n,a„,y  cenC  ^  7  r:,"?:?!:^'  "  "'•'""<-• 
And  who  would  .'ains.,v  n,    .      •  '""*  '"'™  "olved  " 

•■"•  who  had  hiu,serev4e      ';'"'"'■' '''*'''-'''""''<'«t«*o- 

a.-y  n,or..  than  one  tZ  ^      \,::;i:  ''tT:"'i  """■'"■"■™b..ic. 
bergen  alone?  *"  "^  I'ock-set'tion  in  Spitz- 

Hev':  rrraut  't:dT;™rr:  •"  ''"*^*'-'''™'  --  «- 

^■ordenskiold  wrote     "On?  '  "■""■"  '""  ^'"'■"'  P"""- 

»t^-      on  the  way  we  had  in  several  places 


870 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE. 


met  ice  that  was  black  with  stones,  gravel,  and  earth,  which 
north  "''''"'  *"  '""^'"^^"^  *^"'  existence  of  land  still  farther 

Again  he  says: 

"After  my  return  from  th(.  voyage  of  187(]-to  Siberia-! 
came  to  the  conclusi(,n  that  on  the  gr<,und  of  the  experience 
thereby  gained,  and  of  the  knowledge  which,  under  the  ligh 

cLlv  fr'^T'" "'  ''  """''  ^"'^"'^^'  '"  "^*''^'"  ^^'^^"^  «^<1'  ^'^I>e- 
udily  fiom  Kussian  explorations  of  the  north  coast  of   Vsii 

I  was  warranted  in  asserting  that  the  open,  navigable  w;te;; 
M  huh  two  years  in  successi(,n  had  carried  me  acr,>ss  the  Kara 
feea-formerly  of  so  bad  repute-to  the  mouth  of  the  Yenisei 
extended,  m  all  probability,  as  far  as  Bering's  Strait,  and  that 
|t  circumnavigation  of  the  Old  World  was  thus  within  the 
bounds  of  possibility." 

At  length,  under  the  chief  patronage  of  King  Oscar  H., 
>i.  DH-kson  and  Mr.  Sibiriakoff,  wealthy  merchants,  he  sailed 
from  Tromsoe   Norway,  ou  the  voyage  whi.h  was  destined  to 
make  iiini  world-renowned. 

The  expedition  vessel  was  the  staunch  German  whalin- 
steamer  y^cmu^ 

"VEGA," 
of  357  .„„««,.,«,,  b,„.d<.„.    She  l.a.l  bee,.  oq„ip,„.,l  „„,!  ,„an„«I 
l>>  tlH.  slut,.  „(  -.m  ...xpens,.  of  l,.s«  than  if<),r.()0,  au,l  .-arri,.,!  a 
crow  of  «ovontoou  nion,  b...si,l,.s  fh,,  tlnoo  offl,.,.,x     Othol-  ev 
p...»o«  wore  ooruo  b.v  in,livhl„al».    Sl„.  was  a....o,„„anie<l  as 
far  as  the  Lena  a„,l  Yenisei  rivers  „,•  three  depot  sh  p.s     hid 
were  .le.spatehe.l  by  Mr.  Sibirial^olT  at  an  expense  a.h  i   on 
to  Ins  own  general  share.  "'"ouai 

Tliis  sniall  Aretie  fleet  passed  the  Strait  of  Nova  Zenibia 
near  the  .lose  of  J„,y,  „„d  an.-hor,.,!  ou  the  30th  in  V  !' 
h  ra,     th<.  narrow  channel  separating  the  Island  of  Wai"at 

ers  s    n^    ;r"  ''*"""■%"•"'>'  »■'""»  «'">«■  ""'I  swan  featle 
ers,  sk.ns,  fnrs,  etc.,  were  obtained  in  exchange  for  corn  and 

Proceeding  eastward,' the  Kara  Sea  was  f««nd  calm  and 


romparativelv  fre,.  nf  i        .  '" 

i'o"  "-"-fo/iilr ,,  :;^'-^1-V«  '-^  "Vega"  .eaehed 
I'rou,  this  p„iut  t,  tL  tt,  '^  """"''  "'  ""e  Yenisei 


•""  ""^  w'''  <"  August  tire"r;v^;;r  ;;;;,"™''''- 

I'ort  Diei.s„„  aud  n^ert   K  T""""'"*  "~- 
'oniusula  of  the  ZLl  ''"'"'  '^'''™'«- 


visiou-sliin  leff 

»i;<-."t  in  examining  the  fau,  f  '^  ""'"'■  ^'"»'"'  "ajs  were 
-"-1.  P-ogfess  wa^  n-aj  to  Ca„e  "7  "'  ""-  -«"'»'  '  er 
"".•".ernmost  p„i„t  of  the  eas^tn  ^^"P"'-'^''''  «"<!  that  the 

•"-«  ;*  Ca,.  :Le'  ;  •    ,:  :^  ;;";'7-  "f  gentle  slope,  ,o,v 
«>veml  With  grass,,,  „, ,  'J;"  "^"■'  b'-re,  while  „thers    verl 

"Si" ''""'■-"i:r=jt,.r;;:s 

Of  animation  therp  wot.« 
S«>'><,  kittiwakes,  eid^lZ  ;;™  '"""""•"■«'  "'-"aole  geese 
»  bear,  two  shoals  of  the"  ^1  „'?"',''  ''  '''''"'''  «"eral  seals 
''eer  and  lemming.  *"  '"""''•  •'•"O  traces  of  the  reiu 

and^T;:?!:/""'"'  -  "bundance  of  the  lower  forms  of  life 

^^^Of  ,n,eets  there  were  the  spring-tail,  a  few  tlies.  am,  .' 

Having  left  the  eane  tlie  '<v      ,, 
""'■tLwest  bree.es,  thr!,  gh  l.^^'^f"    ««^  ""•''■"  by  favoring 
'  ■!•»•"■'  to  the  mouth  of  the  Jen,       "'  '"  "  '"'"""■asterlv  df 

;';■"'  ♦"«  -i-n.-'."  loft  the  A- " :;  ;';,'"•;  """'■ ""-  ■"»*  "'•■i'"' 

'"!<-  ""»'<'  »''e  bore,  to  VahT^sk    S0«  ,""""  ""  *'"'  ''*■•<'«'" 

•''0  first  ocean-steamer  to  nen  t, '/  '"'''  ''''-'*"'"•    Being 

«"'e  ed  with  great  jov.         '^"'*""''  '"  '"'■  "'I'MhI,  she  waf 

MeanwJiilo  flm  «V-       » 

""*  -ng  io  ;„  4    e;.":,,.,":?,:;'  ♦"«■•■>■•"  *",.  r,ial.o,f  Islands 
«as  relinquished.  '  """'""■  "•''*<''•  the  effort  to  land 

S^Miait,  was  reached  on  the  28th 


372 


THE  SEARCH  FOB  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


o  Septen.ber.  Here  the  "Vega"  w„»  fln„ly  beset  „„  tins  ,lafe 
am.  ,.t  „.ue  established  herself  iu  wiuter.„„arters.  li„t  ,  r 
the  .lelaj-  ,„  <,„leav„rmg  t„  reaeh  the  l.iakoff  Islauds,  e 
would  doubtless  have  eempleted  the  v-.j-ase  i„  I  1,  ' 
season.  "^  sauie 

The  winter  at  Serd-ze  Kau.en  passed  unev,.uttullv    but 
mueh  mf«„„ati„n  was  derived  eoneerning  the  (•h,„  k- 'hje  K 
knuos,  and  m  n.akiu,  seientille  observations,  for  wl,i,  h  ,     „  C 
an  observator,-  was  ereeted  on  shore.    Throughout  the        , 
eason  the  n.en  were  able  to  keep  theu.selves  ™ru,  in  woo  e 
aeke  s  and  woven  jersejs.    The  sea-water  was  foun.l  to  v  r 
.    "1  a  sjngle  da.v  from  28°  to  32°.  "u'l  to  ^aIi 

The  natives  were  found  to  divide  theins,.|ves  jnUurallv  into 
two  elasses:  the  eoast  and  inland  Chook-eluvs,  the  f,,  n  er  d 
pending  upon  the  dog  as  their  n.ost  faithful  allv   th       t    ,■ 
upon    he  reindeer.    In  their  dealings  with  the  shi    .s  ,,  n  , 
they  were  found  to  be  strietl.v  hou.vst,  not  even  distnrbin  '■      e 
p.-ov.s,ous  plaeed  on  shore.    It  was  learned  that  a^r    | 

on  trade  with  the  Alaskans.  •* 

"v>4'Z?;/ri  T""  *'"'  '"■ ""  •'"'  1*^*" '"  J"»^-  !**■».  •"- 

Be  iu'l's  St  .     •      f  "■  r"""  '''•"*  •'">'"  "■'  ""■•  «'y  '  <'«a 
ueiings  Mrait,  and  east  anehor  in  the  Hiv  ,if  «.>..  r 

a»  inlet  of  an  island  inhabited  b,  a  u,'i"ed',^p';:,:   'n  Z',::: 
kans,  C  hook-dieos,  ami  ^timoveds.  . 

Febru'irv  rj  i««n     i-        '<  ' '"'^•'P'e-'"-     'hiseit.v  was  reaclieil 

tue  Ha,  of  htoekholni,  on  the  2-ttli  of  April,  the  retnn,i„.> 
explorers  were  feted  and   wel,.ou,e,l  at  everv  poi  t         .  " 

ovations  were  expre.ssive  of  a  truly  international  entbnsi.,<n, 

ind'^nnLi'"  ''■''■'/  r,'"'.'""  '"'  *""  "^l"""""".  vi..,  the  generous 
and  public-spirited  King  of  Sweden  and  Norway,  Oscar  II., 


on  this  (late 
I'ls.  Hut  tor 
[slauds,  she 

I  the   same 

iitfullj,  but 
><»k-ehee  Es- 
ich  purpose 
ut  the  cold 

II  iu  woolen 
lud  to  varv 


OS,    UPE   m   THE    GREAT    WHITE   WORLD 

will  ever  m,,,,,.  '         "<''"  *'  ""(l  purse  au  admiring  world 


turall.v  iuto 
foi'uiei'  (h'- 

I  the  latter 
's  company 
urbiuj"'  (he 
ley  carried 

S  1879,  the 
way  down 

II  Lorenzo, 
>n  of  Ahis- 

niained  at 

^  she  then 
IS  reached 
entry  into 
returnini;' 
nt  mImtc 
ivd.  Tlic 
ithusiasni 
crtakiujus 


n«Bmp«xo,4«^g 


JODBNKJ. 


jjenerons 
>scar  II., 


374 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

DE  LONG'S  GALL.:     ...   STRUGGLE. 

In  the  pages  of  biHtory  there  is  no  record  more  uoble  and 
inspirino-  than  that  of  George  Washington  De  Long. 

Keared  of  strict,  yet  kind  and  solicitous  Huguenot  parents, 
he  early  imbibed  the  frugality,  energy,  and  Christian  fervor  of 
those  who  begat  him.  His  strong  will  and  passion  to  overcome 
difficulties  urged  him  irresistibly  onward  iu  the  pursuit  of  any- 
thing that  he  undertook. : 

Keturning  from  the  search  of  the  "Polaris"  in  1873,  when, 
as  we  have  already  seen,  he  commanded  the  "Juniata,"  he  ap- 
pears to  have  had  his  heart  set  as  flrmly  on  the  polar  problem 
as  had  been  that  of  the  lamented  Hall.  Acting  upon  the  sug- 
gestion of  Mr.  Grinnell  he  at  once  wrote  to  Mr.  James  Gordon 
Bennett,  then  in  Paris,  and  solicited  financial  "backing."  The 
reply  was  both  courteous  and  encouraging. 

It  was,  however,  the  8th  of  July,  1879,  before  Mr.  Bennett's 
liberality  had  made  all  necessary  arrangements  and  the  expe- 
dition, in  command  of  Lieutenant-Gommander  DeLong, 
steamed  away  from  San  Francisco  and  headed  toward  Bering 
Strait. 

The  vessel  selected  for  this  voyage  was  the  "Pandora," 
formerly  owned  by  Sir  Allen  Young,  who  had  accompanied 
McClintock  in  his  search  for  Franklin  in  1857-9.  In  her,  this 
eminent  English  navigator  had  made,  in  1875,  an  Arctic  voyage 
through  Lancaster  Sound  and  Barrow's  Strait  to  Peel  Sound. 
After  her  purchase  by  Mr.  Bennett  in  1878,  she  was  rechris- 
tened  the 

"JEANNETTB" 

and  refitted  for  Arctic  snrvice. 

Captain  DeLong's  chief  assistants  were:    Lieutenant  C.  W. 


OR,    LIFE   IK   THE   GREAT    WHITE   WORLD.  3K 

Chipp,  the  companion  of  his  voyage  on  the  "Juniata  "  and  now 
h..  exe<nfve  officer;  George  W.  Melville,  U.  S.  N  chiefenIT 
-r;  D,.  Jan,os  M.  Ambler,  U.  S.  N.;  Mr.  .lero,  e  iZ"' 
neteorologust;  Mr.  li.  L.  Neweomb,  nafnralirt,  aud  M  Willi  "m 
Unnbar  ae  pilot.   The  ice  quartermaster  was  Mr  Nin,  ■  ,  n 

:eTo;'  'd -ft  ::";r"'.''":-'"""«'  ^^^^«>"  t,.so„  o;:;:;:-;: : 

rolaris    and  was,  therefore,  one  of  those  for  whom  Caiitain 

Deling  had  gone  in  sear.h  in  1873.  '  

Strange,  indeed,  that  ten  years  later  it  should  be  \in,le- 

It  IS  a  so  of  interest  to  renmrk  that  a  friend  of  the  evoedi- 

bit  of  the  "Polaris"  flag,  to  be  carried  to  the  North  Pole 

Pr..v,si,,„ed  for  three  years,  the  "Jeannette"  steamed  from 
_  .u  Franoiseo  to  St.  Mi,.hael's,  Alaska,  when....   ta    n' 
board  .,r,y  m.e  dogs,  sledges,  a  large  quan,  ity  .,f  fur  gar,  :„ 
her  Arctic  ne.-essaries,  an.I  two  native  assistants,  the  \le" ev 

b"  ":x  Airsiiir""'-  -'- '- -■"  -  - '-"- 

Uponjeaving  the  bay  on  the  evening  of  August  "Tth   ne 
.""«  sent  the  following  d..spat..h  to  th.ril.m..iX  ^.-c.  ,", 

Al    welr^N.  ■"'  ''"''  '""■•"  "■'■  ■'"••■"-  '-'-"  -  il'    • 

m  ntis  ;„.„  f/"'^  '•-',""■'  ^'"■"'■-1-""  I'"«»e.l  s.,„th  tirree 

,..,?•  ' '  """'  ""'"■'■'■'  ••'  ""«»i"".  «h.,  spoke  11,.. 

..1  .language,  as  na„,e,l  '(■ha,.pi„l,,'  p„„„u,|,  x„rd„,i»,     f 

the  Kuss,an  navy,  a.-,. ,anyi„g  x„r,l,.nskio.  I,  who  'ai.l    I 

H,.>»t.    Hope  to  rea.h  Wi-angell  Lau.l  (his  s,.ason  " 

re.,.  ,','!d '^;"r'' """''  '"•:":  *"""'-^-  """■■»  ''"'•'••  «'""'-  '-""<•"  was 

.  re      .  to  it.^'''"  "       '■  f  "•    ""'■'■  '"""■'■»'  """  ''  '•■'* "I- 

«  '^'^'"'♦"3  ■>!  Tlio  Navy,  wcnMlcpos  (('(I.    TIk^sc 

by  n,..a„s  of  the  w ing-v.-ssels  whici,  a,,,,,,,,,,.  ,    it       ,  .i 

af..,.s,,.ea,.l„.,  their  destiuati.n,  thirteiM,  ,„o„ths  iate,..        e,  ! 


<^<H),  Del.oijo'  obsoi'vea  tlio  nnt 


ivos  to  bf  as  liosjuhihlo  as  11 


Were  **stalwart  aud  liaudsuine."    S<»me  of  the 


H^V 


meu  also  saw 


376 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


r 


the  winter-quai'ters  of  the  "Vega,"  which  had  left  there  about 
a  mouth  previous. 

llaviug-  readied  Kol-ju-chin  Bay  on  the  1st,  the  "Jeannette" 
headed  northwestward  toward  Herald  Island  and  Wrangell 
Laud.  The  former,  we  have  noted  in  previous  pages,  had  been 
discovered,  and  the  latter  rediscovered,  by  ('ai>taiu  Kellett, 
in  the  brig  "Herald,"  in  1841).  On  this  day,  too,  was  sighted 
Kolyuchiu,  or  Huruey  Island,  on  which  Wrangell  had  landed 
in  1823. 

On  the  next  day,  in  about  latitude  70°  52'  north,  longitude 
174°  west,  the  American  whaler  "Sea  lireeze,"  Captain  Harues, 
was  seen.    She  was  again  sighted  several  times  on  the  3d. 

Herald  Island  came  into  view  on  the  4th,  and  toward  this 
the  "Jeannette,"  having  now  fairly  entered  the  pack,  endeav- 
ored to  push  her  way.  For  there  was  DeLong  "hopiug  and 
praying  to  be  able  to  get  the  ship  to  make  winter-quarters." 

Sunday,  September  7th,  was  "a  day  of  complete  rest  in 
every  respect."  The  commander,  at  10  a.  m.,  mustered  the 
crew,  read  the  Aiiicles  of  War,  and  held  divine  service.  At 
12  m.  got  soundings  in  forty  fathoms  of  blue  niu<l. 

As  the  vessel  drifted  almost  imperceptibly  in  the  ice,  the 
dous  were  turned  loose  during  the  day-time  for  exercise.  A( 
night  bear-traps  were  also  set,  and  although  bear  tracks  were 
seen  about  them,  none  of  the  creatures  were  caught.  Some 
of  the  dogs  becoming  entrapped  and  injured  instead,  the  traps 
were  taken  in. 

On  the  13th,  Engineer  Melville,  Ice  Pilot  Dunbar,  and 
Alexey,  with  a  sledge  and  dogs,  attempted  to  reach  Herahl 
Island,  while  (^aptaiu  DeLong  and  Dr.  Ambler  sought  for 
suitable  ice  from  which  to  melt  water  for  the  ship's  use,  the 
sea-ice  btMug  salt  and  unserviceable,  excei)t  after  all  too  ex- 
pensive distillation.  Since  icebergs,  those  mere  fragments  of 
fresh  water-producing  glaciers  and  extensive  ice  mantles  -f 
northern  land  elevations  are  not  to  be  found  in  the  Bering 
Strait  region,  the  problem  was  a  vital  one  to  them.  Finally,  n 
large  lump  of  ice  on  <Mid  on  a  floe  was  se<'ured,  and  this,  tested 
bv  means  of  nitrate  of  silver,  showing  the  presence  of  but  from 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  377 

r.  till  n   I,  I,  „  ,„^,  been  stopped  by  „p,.„  ,v,it,.r  ,.xt, „.,  about 

hv..  ,,„  .s  fro,,,  „ e.    Tl,o  ..„„,st  w„h  higb  ,„„1  ,,„i;      ' 

.  m«o,  ,1  ,v„»  .„.,.„,  but  „,au^,  b,.a.-  tia.ks  and  „  .aveu  wm 
..tecMV„d.    A  .soul  «l,ot  b,v  Alexoy  was  b,-o„«ht  to  tl„.  sh  p 

beerr/tL';  „tt;:::r:r;i;;;'',::.  rr::",.;.';"'  :'■'■ '-' 
imo.q'';ro';,i;::;.^rt:;:^^^^^^^^^^  -'^  -- """  — ■ 

ent^ilTl/nfJ  "",*"'  '"f  "•""■"■"l"  «™'  "«<■>-  «•'.  with  the 
entrails  of  the  seal,  and  a  lar;;,.  i„ale  bear  h-,s  , ■■,  „.i,t     n 

.':;i;;::::ri::;:::;t;;;.i;:irr^^^^^^ 

natural  history  <olleiti<in  "  ■  ^ 

.iav";ie2«h  of'!;"'r'  f "':""  '"■"" """  ^  '-'^  '•■ "- ""'-  ■> ' 
4t'pi^::u:t5:::r:::;r:;r-;;r;;";;:::'r-;:::! 

i«  PI  od  „p  in  tables  from  six  to  tweutv  feet  i,   1,  ■"  lb      1, 
c ,,„,,„    osether  of  floes.    O,,..  day  we  Hnd  la,;  Ce  s  of 

ater  the  next  day  we  find  tl,P  spaces  narrowh,..   an.rth 
third  day  the  spaces  are  elosed  an.l  'slabs  of  new  ie^^i     Ih  ; 


378 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE   NORTH   POLE; 


Of  lifo,  an  occasional  gull  and  the  products  of  the  dredge 
were  all  that  couUl  be  seen.  On  the  28th,  however,  Newcomb 
and  Ah'xey  shot  two  female  walruses,  eacli  weighing  1,000 
pounds;  one  was  heavy  with  her  .young,  the  foetus  and  skin 
being  saved  as  natural  history  specimens.  The  Hesh  afforded 
much  dog  food. 

October  opened  with  a  terrific  gale  of  wind  and  snow.  At 
noon  on  the  8d,  soundings  gave  a  depth  of  twenty-four  and  a 
half  fathoms,  with  blue  mud  and  dark  gravel.  "^The  dredge 
brought  up  some  delicate  white  coral— a  circumstance  that 
bespoke  either  a  natural  growth  or  a  warm  current  from  the 
south.  On  the  same  day  Herald  Island  reappeared  in  the 
scuithwest,  the  "Jeannette^'  having  drifted  southward  on  the 
third  side  of  the  triangle  represented  on  the  track  chart,  and  a  I 
a  speed  of  ten  miles  a  day  for  three  days.  In  the  afternoon  of 
this  day  Mr.  Newcomb,  Aneguin  and  Alexey  killed  another 
female  bear  weighing  about  500  pounds,  thus  adding  greatly 
to  tI:o  ship's  larder. 

On  the  0th  the  indefatigable  Newcomb  shot  twenty-eight 
ducks,  and  on  the  next  day  a  "Ross's  gull"— a  most  valuable 
prize  and  rare  beyond  calculation,  there  being  but  one— at  the 
Museum  in  Mainz— in  the  world. 

On  the  17th  Nindemann  and  Aneguin  each  added  a  seal, 
making  seven  hanging  in  the  rigging,  and  insuring  fresh  meat 
for  as  many  dinners.  On  the  following  day  Ah  Ham,  the  cook, 
and  a  most  valuable  man  otherwise,  "asked  for  a  gun,"  says 
DeLong,  " 'to  go  shoot  a  seal.' »  ♦  ♦  *  "In  about  an  hour 
he  returned,  the  most  astonished  and  startled  (niinaman  out 
of  China.  At  his  first  shot  the  gun  had  burst,  tearing  up  the 
barrel,  fortunately  near  the  muzzle,  so  that  he  received  no 
harm;  but  his  mental  demoralization  was  complete.  The 
probability  is  he  let  the  muzzle  slip  in  the  snow  at  some  time, 
and  the  end  of  the  bore  got  choked;  hence  the  bursting." 

On  the  2Sth  Lieutenant  Danenhower  found  the  ship's  posi- 
tion tQ  be  in  latitude  71°  57'  north,  longitnde  177°  51'  west. 
Land  appeared  in  the  south-southwest,  whicii  DeLong  believed 
to  be  that  seen  by  Captain  Long  in  1807  (Wraugell  Laud.)   Com- 


Ill/  savs 


OB.    UPE   IN   THE    OBEAT    WHITE    WORLD.  379 

■"■•■"I".  l),.I.„n^r  „„  |„„pp,  ,„,,i,.^^,,  .^  ^^^  „,ntiue,.t  hut 

iMtiuT  an  island  ,„•  an  anliij),.|„g„  '  '"" 

!.  f    'r  ■  '■'■""'"  "'  ""■  "'""'-  "'"J-  '""Kilt  liiMKo  at  a 

™fc  distanoe  fr,,,,,  the  vessel  and  ,.h,.w,., ,?  so  l,adYv  (In 

he  died  witliin  ten  minuter  .Vfter  beinR  „„,. „   u      .f,  '"■" 

T hronKhont  October  several  seals  and  walruses  were  se 
<"red   and  ^valrus  sausa,.e"  was  serve.,  as  a  new  ald^.," 

M  .11  meat  well  cooked  was  not  to  be  despised.    Certainly  with 
"«  abnndaine  of  fuel,  this  may  be  aecoi.lplished. 

On  Noveniber  nth  Del.ong  records:    "A  day  of  «reat  an.. 

«<st«ard  had  again  connnenced,  and  tlie  janimiuir  of  lar^re 
"'■••OS    ron.  time  to  time,  splintering  our  li  ,e,  can  c-d  b  «  ta 
..ml  up  eavals  to  within  about  seventy^ve  fe^  of  the  shi" 

I  he  ship  groaned  and  creaked  at  every  pressure  until  I 
l.oi.«lit  the  ne..t  would  break  her  adrift.    The  pressure  was 

.::;■'' I ",:;,;;."?''''  "™^t  ^"^  •""  '---"'"^o"  'oZZo:x 

■t.    A  imnble,  a  shriek,  a  groan  and  a  crash  of  a  falling  house 

«  hi  :;?,'"""  ";."*"'  r''  '"  ""'^"•^'  "»  ""'^  "<  "•<■  -i^-  with 

•om  fi ft.  ei  'to  "t""  °   "r"'?  '"  ""■"■"P--"-    "■■eat  masses, 
t         fifteen  to  twenty-five  feet  in  height  when  up-ended   are 
iKling  ahmg  at  varh.us  angles  of  elevation  and  jam,  and  be 

;.T'  '■'''*'  ''"'''  "•'""•"    On  the  30th  he  writes- 

i-Ci^t"    irhUb    "  ■""■"''"' N-'-ber  ivithout  the  slightest 
.  rtT  men,  T„i    .  "  "'T'"  "'  '■''"''•  i^^-P^essures  and  dFscom- 
..rts,  mental  and  physical.     •     •     •     I  savgood-bv  to  Novem 
hor  and  ,nv.,ke  God's  blessing  on  our  ship  ami  o„r.X;  " 

,I„v,h  '■'"'"  *'"'  "^""''''^  '"''''*''  "'  ="'  «•"«  excellent.  Each 
'  ay  the  men  exercised  without  the  ship  for  two  hourj  The 
-logs,  m  sleeping  on  the  snow,  frequently  became  frozen  fast 


380 


TMB  SEARCH    FOR  THE   NORTH   POLE; 


and  had  to  bo  du^r  Iooho.  Bvnv  and  fox  (racks  were  frcMnu'iilIv 
diHcoveiv.!  and  a  heap  (,f  <.,Mllisl,  Immu-s  was  picked  up  two  ndh's 
from  theship.  'V\wy  were  pn.babl.v  (he  rcniainsof  a  (i:,h  caiiKht 
oKher  by  a  boar  (.r  a  seal.  A  disdller,  which  consunicd  two 
pounds  of  coal  for  every  Kalh,n  of  water,  was  als.,  niaiU'  and 
used,  and  yiehled  for(.v  ^aih.ns  <,f  water  each  daj.  A  Ln,,,,,! 
(Miristnias  dinner  brought  to  a  ch»se  the  h'adinu  events  of  the 
gh)omy  month. 

The  New  Year,  however,  came  in  witli  much  cheer      Tli,- 
Nhip's  bell  was  rung  rapidly  and  the  crew,  assembling  .,n  d(Mk 
gavenhreecheersfor(heM..anne((e."'    After  a  capital  <linm.i' 
at  S  p.  m.,  all  assembled  at  X-M  in  the  deck-house  and  enj(.ved 
an  entertainment.    DeLongsays:    "Entering,  we  found  a  nice 
little  stage  erected  with  drop-curtains,  foot-lights,  etc.,  and 
tastily  decorated   Mith   tiags.     The  performance  commenced 
with  a  minstrel  variety,  jokes  and  conundrums  samlwiching 
in  with  the  songs.    One  c<»nundrum  was  excellent  (pointing  to 
one   of  the    stanchions  of   the   deck-house):     'Why   is   that 
stanchion  like  Mr.  James  (lordon  Bennett?    Because  it  sup- 
ports the  house.'     Sweetman's  songs   were   very  good,  and 
Kuehne's  violin  solo  was  tine  imh'ed,  especially  wlien  one  takes 
into  consideration  the  fact  that  a  seaman's  life'does  not  serve 
to  render  the  fingers  supple  and  delicate.    Mr.  Colo  gave  us  a 
jig  with  all  the  gravity  of  a  judge.    One  of  the  features  of  th<' 
evening  was  a  prologue,  c<unpose(l  by  Mr.  (N)Ilins,  in  which  each 
(mo  of  the  crew  was  made  the  subject  (.fa  rhyme  in  turn.  Alexey 
and  Anoguin  gave  ns  native  dances,  and  the  latter  an  imitatioii 
of  a  song  sung  by  our  diinamon.    The  diinamen  gave  us  (heir 
native  song,  and  a  sham  rtght  with  knives  and  a  pole,  winding 
up  by  imitadng  with  much  contemi.t  Alexey's  and  Aneguiu's 
manner  of  singing  and  dancing." 

January,  however,  passed  heavily  away,  with  much  ice- 
movement,  causing  the  leaking  of  the  ship  and  necessitating 
the  working  of  the  pumps.  (Jigantic  ice-blocks  pitched  and 
rolled  as  though  under  control  (.f  magic.  The  "Jeannetto"  was 
in  an  amphith(^^tor  of  Ice  about  five-eighths  of  a  mile  in  diam- 
eter and  this  circle  was  gradually  decreasing  in  size,  as  lingo 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  jj, 

ln.iK«.»  „f  wliilPi,ra„  nppfoiuhcl  flip  vp«spI  i„  „.i  i-      ., 
<"' «1...  .„.,.u  two  I ln.,1    ash,.     0,1    '""•'■.""""•  "" 

'""«'  i."v,.  1,,.,.,.  i„.„a„,i,  dP,,n„iZ  ;;''"'■'  :""''" 

""■i'>"'"-"«'".> «."  an »...,;,' .';:",''';'".  ";•"' 

•^''™'--  " '"■•  and  Sw....|,„a„  „■..,■,.  in  ill      ',,",'    ,'"• 

■-: -■--!;  t,;;:;:z?a;r:^^^ 

"•'"'•'''""'l"m'ethPm„Hi,,,u,„uia„/i;.iu.,f   I      ■'■'""■ 

'•■"''■'I  =UMl  l.Vl,n,„ry  bPuan    will,  ,,'7 '"""'"•  "•    -'"""m-y 
On  111,,  firsl  „f  ii,„  „    '"'^'"'' ,"'•''  '1"^'  pumps  K"inK  Nli-adilv. 

.1.,.  ne..t  day  another  of  the«e  Preataivs  attonrntP.!         pV 
>".■-      .P  VPHHPI,  bnt  ,va«  «hot  b.v  Mr.  I.nnbar.      t     ,     it, 
;'»»  ponndN  and  nipasnred  piftht  fppt  one  ind.  in  IPtrntl,     v,  ti 
".«»ve  a  fP».  slate-like  stones  was  fonnd  in  its  st'nlL,, 

WASHINGTON'S  BIRTHDAY 

f^'.lling-  on  Sunday,  its  rolebration  was  l.Hd  o„  the  -id       Vt 
snnnso  the  Moannette"  was  <li,>sso.l  with   \.  '^       • 

-  nu.  n.ast-h.ad  and  t,a,-sta.  ^::\^:Z:^'z^z:::r 

On  tho  last  day  «f  February  I)oL„nn.  wroto-    "Th    n. 
hn^rht  una  cheorful,  survovin«-  with  uuX  V  ''''' 

->:,anyi;j:::,:^r—:,id'';v:;r\ri;: '"'■'-• 
™-K  Wit,,  no  ponppV: ;'  , ;:  r:"?,zf  "Jo"''"-? '^ 

""tivps,  A.P..P,  an,,  AnPgnin,  tbrivP  won  p    ,,     wp,^  O     " 
».ona„,v^bey  <t,nnK  p,Pntv'  about  St.  Mi^U^^^^ ,  "^^^ 


382 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE  NORTH  POLE; 


liouiesick,  but  generally  they  are  bright  and  happy.  ♦  ♦  » 
They  are  naturally  and  intuitively  the  most  polite  men  I  have 
met  outside  of  cultivated  society.  *  ♦  *  Upon  meeting  an 
officer  first  in  the  morning,  a  touch  of  the  cap  and  a  good-morn- 
ing are  immediately  tendered.  If  you  do  or  say  anything  for 
them  that  they  see  or  hear,  'Thank  you'  is  immediately  your 
reply.  If  you  thank  them,  'You  are  welcome'  is  ready.  And 
all  this  in  a  manly,  straightforward  way,  without  any  cringing 
or  eye  serving." 

On  March  3d  some  shells  and  a  piece  of  driftwood  resemb- 
ling birch  were  brought  in.  In  December  a  piece  of  Avood  and 
a  i)rint  of  a  moccasin  or  sealskin  boot  on  a  single  piece  of  ice 
had  also  been  seen  at  some  distance  from  the  ship.  They  had 
undoubtedly  come  from  some  Siberian  River. 

The  advance  of  March  brought  the  appearance  of  more 
game.  On  the  12th  the  track  of  a  wolf  was  seen.  Two  days 
later  three  species  of  drift-wood  and  some  stones  and  sponges 
were  found.  The  shells  had  probably  been  dug  up  from  the 
bottom  of  the  sea  and  left  on  the  ice.  On  the  16th  Alexey  and 
Aneguin  shot  a  she-bear  and  on  the  20th  Alexey  shot  an  im- 
mense walrus,  so  large  that  four  men  and  thirty  dogs  could 
not  drag  him  over  the  ice.  Nindemann  estimated  his  weight 
at  2,800  pounds, 

Laud  (Wrangcll's)  was  seen  in  the  southwest  several  times 
during  the  month. 

The  pumps  were  kept  continually  at  work.  Ice  disturh- 
ances  and  resulting  pressure  on  the  ship  k^pt  all  in  a  state  of 
nnxiety.  Great,  confused  masses  of  ice  thirty  or  forty  feet 
high  were  i)iled  up  about  the  vessel. 

It  was  observed  that  the  ice  sank  deeper  in  winter  than  in 
summer,  for  then,  being  like  flint  in  hardness  and  closeness,  it 
possessed  greater  density,  causing  it  to  sink  lower  than  in  Au- 
gust or  September,  when  it  was  honey-combed  and  softened  hy 
the  sun. 

The  position  of  the  ship  on  the  last  day  of  the  month  was 
72°  36'  north,  by  178°  7'  west— almost  th.     arae  as  on  Noveni- 


I 


I 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD  353 

!"!,'» alisht..,!  near  tbe  Ip  '         ^oow-bunt- 

At  this  time  tUe  doge  were  observed  to  be  "as  fat  as  d,n,.„ 

il  (•  lieaItU  of  the  men  was  excellent     The  scale  nf  f     , 
contain  nj;  niueli  fiesli  hr«..,i      •»,  '"'^  "'  '"""l 

'>"»«•,  sixty  p,u„u         frel  '„!?  ''""""'  ^''«<'''""-'  """<. 

■'""■juu.e.c^HbntdL;^:!;';;:';;!;!  '"^^ """' '""'  '°''^'' 

, .      .  ON  SUNDAYS 

:  .iin'nT'whrh  r  held":,","'"  "'^^^  '^^-"'^  '""-'-"  ".V 
fare  for  t  e  Wn^e  e™  is  e ,  T"  "'"'"P""™-  ^'"«  "ii.  of 
with  oranberrv  s  mce  "t^,  M  "":"'  ''"•'"'  '"""  ^  ■•<«""  •«""• 
.liu.'  or  "luff"  , ;  ffl  '  '"T"  "'"•  '"'•»*«<'«.  Piekles,  brea.l,  pnd- 

,.orr;;:,r  ::<!!;;"""  ^'"'  ^■''""'"•'^'  -"  »  g>a-  either  Jf'ale. 

v<'K0tab  1.  n  at  er     olthe  2nM',     ""'"     '"'"'  """  "  "'"""  '" 
'li".-in  «a»f.,„d  .,  ;,nr    ^f  f  """i'"'  """^  ^•"*  ""e»  and 

.mU.  ..^,wost.     On  the  ,.st  day  a  flock  c^'.ulo      ^^.  ^ 
<  Klor  (Incks  were  observed  flyinj?  westward 

On  the  8th   of  Myy  Captain   DeLono-  th"s  «i.:^....    -ni 
weather  is  gloomy,  depressinj,s  and  disagreeable"  'Vdocities 


.ii:  J. 


384 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH   POLE; 


rangiu}^'  from  ten  to  twenty-three  miles  drive  the  snow  from 
the faie of  the  tioe  in  clouds.  ♦  ♦  *  Here  and  there  along- 
side the  ship  a  little  white  lump  indicates  that  there  is  a  dog 
beneath  .it,  and  even  the  regular  and  irregular  dog  fights  are 
discontinued  until  the  weather  gets  clearer  and  friend  can  be 
distinguished  from  foe.  *  *  *  As  if  by  concerted  plan  one 
and  two  will  spring  on  three,  r(dl  him  over  and  seemingly  tear 
him  in  pieces.  Fortunately  the  wool  is  so  long  and  thick  that 
an  attacking  dog  gets  his  mouth  full  of  hair  before  his  front 
teeth  reach  the  tlesh.  *  *  *  The  vulnerable  places  are  the 
ears  and  the  belly.  I  have  seen  an  attacked  dog  run,  and, 
lying  on  his  stonmch,  shove  his  head  into  a  snow  bank  wiih 
impunity  while  his  foes  were  choking  over  the  hair  they  tore 
out  of  his  back.        > 

"*  *  *  Suddenly  dog  three  will  turn  on  dog  two  and 
be  promptly  aided  by  dog  one,  his  previous  foe.  By  this  time 
the  whole  pack  has  gathered  as  if  by  magic,  and  a  free  and  in- 
discriminate fight  occurs. 

"They  divide  up  into  little  gangs  of  three  or  four,  and  in 
these  friendly  cliques  they  also  fight.  *  *  *  It  is  a  com- 
mon occurrence  to  see  a  dog  on  the  black-list,  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  ship,  all  alone  and  afraid  to  come  in  until  his 
time  is  up.  He  then  approaches  fawningly,  wagging  his  tail 
deprecatingly  to  become  reconciled,  and  is  either  welcomed  by 
wagging  tails  or  snarling  teeth,  in  Avhich  latier  case  he  retires 
for  another  spell.  *  *  *  They  make  no  demonstration  at 
any  dog  singly,  or  a  team,  going  away,  except  the  most  doleful 
hovvling,  and  should  he  or  they  venture  to  return,  the  remainder 
of  the  pack  lie  in  wait  for  the  one  or  more  returning.  If  a 
team"  comes  in,  a,  rough  and  tumble  fight  ensues  and  requires 
two  or  three  men  to  stop  it.  As  soon  as  the  harness  is  off  they 
are  all  smooth  and  quiet  again,  the  cliques  reassembling  and 
moving  off  to  their  usual  haunts.     ♦     *     * 

"Their  cunning  is  extraordinary.    Going  out  the  other  night 
at  twelve  for  ^,„.., 

METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS, 

about  a  dozen  of  them  came  around  me  in  great  excitement 


'  snow  from 
there  along- 
ere  is  a  dog 
»g  fights  are 
'ierid  can  be 
ted  plan  one 
uningly  tear 
d  thick  that 
)re  his  front 
laces  are  the 
)g  run,  and, 
V  bank  wiih 
lir  they  tore 


log  two  and 

By  this  time 

free  and  in- 


four,  and  in 
It  is  a  corn- 
quarter  of  a 
'  in  until  his 
ging  his  tail 
welcomed  by 
ise  he  retires 
lustration  at 
most  doleful 
he  remainder 
1  ruing.  If  a 
and  requires 
^ss  is  off  they 
sembling  and 

le  other  night 


t  excitement 


ra  ^.% 


'»M 
% 


lir5J2fcK.x«-2r 


.3i«>>X. 


! 


vai«><  ■  '   -xj^ciKj-c- 


J 


Etah  Eskimos  :   Nook-tah  and  My-ouk.      View  at  Cape  York     In- 
verted Iceberg  in  the  Distance. 
(SwCliiiptirs  XXVlll..  XXXlV.anil  XLII.) 


In- 


6r.    life    in   the    great    white    world.  385 

about  something  or  other.    Looking  around  for  i  onn.p  t    k 

of  t,w  bears  weighing  nearly  800  pounds  ' 

oesl'n  '  ofrAfr""  ""'■"  "''  """  ''""™«1  ^^■'•■•'■ib'  in  snc 
cession.    One  of  tilt  seamen  sliowed  signs  of  insanity  •  r-iin  fell 

for  a  few  moments  on  the  0th  and  was  esteem"  "V  Inrrv" 
on  the  last  day  the  first  punishment  of  the  cruise  wa"  i  Hi  tt,', 
one  of  the  seamen  being  compelled  to  assu.L  "wa  "  i' 
watch  for  twenty.fonr  hours  in  the  flre.r,K>n,,  for  p  „  >  ' 
abusive  language  to  a  ship-mate."  On  this  d^v  I  1 
Imving  drifted  to  the  southeast-backwJdf  !  ^  ,  T'"'^' 
T2°  19'  41"  north,  longitude  178°  2"  30"  a";;  v!:  f  ;'"^' 
■seals  and  Ave  Boss's  gulls  were  secur",  h  ilg \t  , S' 
Ihey  now  had  seven  of  the  hitter  mouth. 

^onS/rst't^:."  t'  "corj;::;:'  "?r  tt-  -" 

really  „f  Monday,  July  nth,  as  t^r^^:       J;  -;;;,:  l.^ 
180th  meridian.     It  hpino-  +iw.  «„  j.  c      ,  «i<».s.se(i  the 

Articles  of  War  and  geZI    ,..';;;:  :L'"  '."iVl'.'.r"';"" 
and  divine  service.    On  the  ne..t  day  the  ^  '»»l'«-""n 

ANNIVERSARY  OF  AMERICAN  INnEPBNDENCE 

ueaii  and  signals  in  a  rain-bow.    The  latitude  then  was  7r  "IV 
rint ZlfroTt     '  "'  """"  ""  "'"''■^  »--  -vered  with 


8$e 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


I 


Past  the  middle  of  the  month  De  Loug  almost  despairiugly 
writes:  "See-saw,  see-saw  northwest  with  a  southeast  wind, 
and  then  southeast  with  a  northwest  wind,  and  the  same  result 
with  any  other  two  succeeding  winds.  *  *  ♦  A  bear  in  a 
trap,  a  bird  in  a  cage,  a  ship  in  the  ice,  are  alike  held  in  bondage 
sharp  and  galling.  *  »  *  job  is  recorded  to  have  had 
many  trials  and  tribulations  which  he  bore  with  wonderful  pa- 
tience; but  so  far  as  is  known  he  was  never  caught  in  pack-ice 
and  drifted  south  and  west  with  west  winds."  And  a  few  days 
later:  "Seal  at  dinner,  with  macaroni,  tomatoes,  etc.,  etc.,  as 
per  bill  of  fare,  and  a  glass  of  sherry  with  our  corn  starch  pud- 
ding.    As  far  as  food  goes,  we  are  in  luxury." 

On  tlie  same  day  was  killed  their  first  ook-sook  (Pho-ca  bar- 
ba-ta,  or  bearded  seal).  She  was  eight  feet  long.  ITer  linsh 
was  used  for  dog  food  and  the  thick  skin  for  boot  soles. 

The  29th  was  rendered  memorable  by  their  again  arriving 
at  the  180th  meridian,  which  line  was  previously  crossed  on  the 
5th  of  May. 

^  On  August  2d  their  location  was  latitude  73°  20',  longitude 
178°  36'  west,  a  change  of  over  twenty-three  and  a  half  miles, 
or  nearly  seven  miles  a  day,  to  the  northeast. 

By  the  gradual  melting  of  the  snow  and  ice,  shells,  pieces  of 
sponge  and  bits  of  wood  were  revealed. 

On  the  3d,  between  5  and  8  o'clock  p.  m.,  a  strong  odor  of 
burning  brush-wood  filled  the  air  and  was  noticed  by  every  one 
save  DeLong,  who  was  suffering  at  the  time  of  a  severe  cold  in 
the  head.  A  decided  haze  was  also  apparent  from  0  to  10  p.  ni. 
On  the  13th  there  was  a  rainbow  at  10  p.  m.  and  sunset  oc- 
curred twenty  minutes  later.  On  this  day  the  "Jeannette" 
began  again  to  drift  northwest.  On  the  18th  a  sounding  gave 
a  depth  of  44  fathoms,  with  mud,  gravel,  and  fine  white  sand. 
On  the  next  day  Mr.  Dunbar,  while  on  the  ice  with  Alexey,  was 
surprised  by  "the  biggest  bear  he  had  ever  seen — 


A  REGULAR  BUSTER 


t" 


Dunbar  crouched  down,  whereupon  Alexey  fired  and  dropped 
the  monster!     Bruin,  however,  again  spx^ang  to  his  feet  and 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THfi    GRfiAT    WHITE    WORLD  337 

rnmantio,  but  iinnracti.ihj/  11  ?  -"""nteuauee  was 

board  s,Hp  theref^be  ?•"  a  b™  "?'  b;^"  ,!  "':  '""•""'  "«" 
BruiB  halte,!,  but  so  close  had  hean„,,,a"hed  L  iT'""  """"• 
«>mmande,.  could  distiu<.tlv  so<MvZre  Z  ^  ,  "  "■'''''''' 
the  edge  of  his  bearsi^p's  "boU  uTb  7';„^:;»'V''''.'''' »' 
Long  called  ah.ud,  "On  board  ship  there-  and  ^on    .**  ' 

plied,  "llal-loa!"    "A  bear!  a  bear"'  veiled  De  '"         '^>\  '■"■ 

he  same  titne  elevated  an  oar  to  fend  off  l^^^s  ,n."t  :,""  ?? 
i.e  advance  farther.    At  that  instant  a  stHur«f  d!"  an  I  Z  en 

-bed  round  the  stern  of  the  vessel,  an,l  the  bear.'     ,"    t 
then,  a  moment,  took  the  hint  and  „  ade  off  leavinlr;     t 

and  two  nearly  grown  cubs  appeared.    The  dogs  bei.^'  fed  m 
the  port  bow  were  unmindful  of  their  approach    %', 
reigned.    Mrs.  Bruin  led  the  van     «!„„ .         ?  ,  ''"''' 

head  to  the  wind,  necK  stre  hid  out  i l^'f,,:?'  ft'"™''"-'' 
describing  graceful  curves  at  each  step  .h^  en  on  T'  "T 
Ihe  water  lanes  and  swam  across  hS.rhn  i  *^  •''  '"*" 
h.;.;offspri„g  to  f.dh,w.     At    -Sri'Z  t^rt  Z^"'^: 

.  -iiouating  t„at  it  had  been  struck.    The  young  ones 


.  THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 

closed  in  on  the  mother,  and  the  firing  continued  until  the 
smoke  hid  them.  Away  went  the  dogH  and  the  men  in  pursuit, 
following?  tlie  l)l(K)d-staiued  tracks.  The  mother  bear,  tljoujfli 
severely  hurt,  puslied  her  young  before  her,  nosing  tliem  into 
the  water  before  leaving  the  ice  herself,  and  thus  covered  their 
retreat  until  the  pursuers  were  obliged  to  abandon  the  chase 
by  reason  of  the  too  numerous  leads. 

When  in  pursuit  of  these  bears  Lieutenant  De  Long  and 
Dr.  Ambler  came  to  a  locality  covered  with  the  "crimson-vol- 
ored  snow"  for  quite  a  space.  The  microscope  revealed  in  it 
a  pink-colored  marine  algae,  probably  a  species  of  i)rotoc()c<'us. 

On  August  30th  Jupiter  and  Aldebaran  were  in  j)lain  view. 
This  was  the  first  appearance  of  any  of  the  stars  since  in  the 
spring,  and  on  the  next  day,  as  if  to  give  warning  of  the  r.eai' 
approach  oi  winter,  an  aurora  appeared  as  a  faint  tren'uilons 
arch. 

On  the  1st  of  September  the  vessel  righted  herself  once 
more  to  an  even  keel,  and  numerous  flocks  of  birds  (principally 
phalatropes)  passed  to  the  southwest  as  if  coming  from  some 
land  to  the  northeast.  The  5th  was  the  first  anniversary  ol' 
the  entrance  of  the  ship  into  the  ice-pack,  and  she  was  but 
150  miles  northwestward  of  that  point.  On  the  9th  Mr.  Dun- 
bar brought  to  the  ship  a  quantity  of  "crimson  snow."  On 
the  14th  De  Long  writes:  "At  8  p.  m.  the  moon  was  rising  on 
the  southern  horizon,  and  very  much  distorted  by  refraction. 
It  seemed  of  immense  size  four  days  before  full  moon,  and  re- 
minded one  of  a  large  city  burning.  Auroral  flashes  shot  up 
from  the  eastern  horizon  toward  the  zenith,  and,  with  the  many 
stars  visible,  made  a  beautiful  scene.  At  midnight,  <m  going 
out  to  make  the  meteorological  observation,  I  was  considerably 
startled.  South-southeast  of  the  ship,  right  ahead,  the  sky  at 
the  horizon  was  lighted  up  as  by  a  coming  daylight,  the  clear, 
bright  light  being  very  marked.  I  knew,  of  course,  it  must  be 
an  auroral  display,  but  while  I  looked,  a  brilliant  green,  aucl 
then  a  brilliant  red  color  spread  all  over  it,  very  much  as  dif- 
fei'«nt  colored  lights  are  made  to  shine  on  a  stage  in  spectacu- 
lar pieces.    As  a  scenic  effect  it  was    grand    indeed.    The 


OH,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WH.TR    WORLD,  38a 

On  tUe28tli  the  Uoodliini  doc- Prince  Ti„„   .„  i  !■     u 
t"  bay  a  ,a,.,..  ben,,  which  was  »„.    b   II.  "',;:    ■",';'  "'"Tl 
before  beins  <lressed  943i  pound-,.  '  "  "'"*'"""^ 

October  passed  uway  verv  uneventfnliv  ti, 
single  fat  white  f„x  iu  a  ti-aoou  tl  •  in     ^  «■<.  captnre  „f  a 
new  thing  to  occur.  '''"*-'  "'"""  •''«  ""'J' 

g.in'"'oll''tl!er-;H  ,?''""""  *"-  "•'"*'"•  ■■"""'"•  «a«  again  be- 
fe"'"-     ^^n  the  ()th  the  sun  ro^P  'if  1 1  -qh  i.      •         .  "^^«""  ih 

.•e,.eated  on  the  next  day,  the  suu  seemils  ,„  be  w  i,  -.h      T 
horizon  at  noon.  "  '  "bove  the 

The  month  was  one  of  oreatnionofonv     wu.  ^i 
of  tbe  .small  part,-  that  l^i.l  g™"      ,Z  •,    rc!l      ' 7-'""""" 
none  had  been  on  land  for  neaHy  «ft.t  i  :  t^s  ' "Th:   bad ""i^ 
De  Long  thought,  become  ,  ^        '  ^^ 

RECEIVERS   OP   MAGNETISM 

without  proper  earths  in  which  to  ilJnw  .-f  + 
-t  became  broi^en  and  nnnatii'ar    le    ;;,.::;r  in  Jt'";': 
p.  m,  often  lying  awake  till  S  a.  m.     Pe  lo  ,..     i,      f,  ,    ■"*  ^° 
"■ntch  till  midnight,  never  turned  in  ti.       T'      ."  ,„d",.""'"' 
got  to  sleep  till  3:30  am  '     "'  ""''' 

i..i.;tothe„orthwesw::r,^xi'L;:si  Their;  :X'''''- 

On  the  2d  of  December  their  monotonous  lite  *:;  ;e,]:;ed 


390 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


by  the  killing  of  a  bear  8  fwt  3^  inches  in  l«'n - '  1:  and  wcij-hin.. 
800  ponndH. 

Observation  on  the  11th  showed  that  the  vessel  had  aj-aiii 
drifted  considerablv  to  tiie  southeast.  At  .ntervals  durinj;-  tlie 
day  loud  reports  like  the  discharj^^e  of  heavy  guns  were  heani, 
and  the  ship  was  much  jarred  by  them.  They  were  probably 
caused  by  the  splitting  of  heavy  ice  contracting  with  the  in- 
tense cold. 

On  the  22d,  although  the  sun  had  reached  its  greatest  south- 
ern declination  and  had  therefore  begun  to  return,  there  was 
not  noticeable  any  ditlerence  in  the  amount  of  twilight. 

(Iiristmas  Eve  and  the  hist  <lay  of  the  year  1880  were  cele- 
brated with  minstrel  entertainments,  Ou  Christmas  Day  a 
tine  dinner  was  served  and  all  were  for  the  time  being  made 
cheerful.  The  entertainment  given  ou  the  last  day  of  the  year 
closed  by  all  singing  the 

"STAR    SPANGLED    BANNER" 

and  a  short  address  by  the  commander,  in  which  he,  among 
other  things,  stated  that  during  the  past  sixteen  months  they 
had  drifted  l,30t)  miles,  although  they  were  only  220  miles 
northwest  of  where  they  were  when  first  beset;  that  they  had 
pumped  a  leaking  ship  for  a  year  and  kept  her  habitable;  that 
they  then  faced  the  future  with  a  firm  hope  of  doing  something 
worthy  of  themselves,  of  James  (Jordou  Bennett  and  of  the 
flag  that  lloated  above  them  and  that,  with  the  blessing  of  (lod, 
they  would  return  to  their  homes  with  panbmable  pride. 

On  his  usual  watch  ('ai)tain  l)e  Long  was  kept  company  on 
New  Year's  Eve  by  Melville  and  Dunbar.  At  midnight,  after 
the  men  had  sung  a  verse  and  the  chorus  from 

"MARCHING    Tx  ROUGH    GEORGIA," 

eight  bells  for  the  old  year  were. struck,  three  cheers  for  the 
ship  given,  and  eight  bells  more  Avere  struck  for  the  new  year. 
Thus  was  ushered  in  on  board  the  United  States  steamer 
"Jeannette"  the  year  1881,  in  latitnd-  73°  48'  north,  longitude 
177°  32'  east. 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WOHLD  m 

'" -■""'"" "" «"  ""■  "'<'■''<>•'•■- "Iu^^^ImuT 

^^__^^^_^^  <..»,  « >.,...■  f,.„,„  l,uv,„j;«w.,M„w«l  u  law  wad  „f 

ni!:ro,,';,.,;.i„!;:i"  """"•  """"  «"-  '"".V  >>oUled  «»  «  „at„ral 
0«  the  l«tU  a  »,„all  (,„„•  was  kille,!  b^  the  dog8. 


WASHINGTON'S    BIRTHDAY 

«a« aKain  .olebrat..,!  n,,,.,,,  „f  t|„.  Ar.ti,-  CM^  bv  nla.in^  .ho 

.v;„.......„w.t^.d:;:t1,^b:.f:;:;in:;;;;::: 

Ion.,  uifh  a  l(,nj;-  oanh  «n  his  niinp;    Wolf  one  r.f  th.  A 

"illi  l«„  side  ^Mslies  clear  t„  the  intestines-  one -f  ai  ' 

.1"!.-,  will,  a  ,.iaw  Rash  in  his  throat;  Sn       .  •'  with  ^ .tlT 
.i-.*  t"  n,„nth;  Sn,ike,  with  two  bad  ^^^u^ot^  ™'  "•""' 

..^td;!;;u:;;::;t:j:;:zr-' "-'■"-'--« 

l«ter  the  position  of  the  "Jeannette"  „  ,«  SW     M       *^    .  ''"•''" 
"f  lleiald  Island.  *  ""'*^  northwest 

Nearly  a  month  later,  on  the  l!)th  of  \.^,.ii  *i.    ^, . 
"".1  two  dogs  followed  a  bea    1  il  finllh'^H'         '""""""''' 
tne  pnrsuit.    Not  nntil  nearly  a  week      tot  X"  f "  "" 
turn,  exhansted  from  their  long  absence  "'  ""*'"  '" 

On  the27fh  some  diatoms  of  the  order  cos  cin  o  rfi= 
"btuined,  and  being  evldentlv  of  ri"'-  o--        I  "*"''' 


392 


THK   SEAllCil  FOR  THIi   NORTH   POLE; 


tlon  was  suppoRod  to  bo  within  the  area  of  tlu'  dopoHit  from  the 

Oil  liu'  4th  of  May  a  (lock  of  ten  wild  jjfccsc  ami  hoiiu*  dinks 
were  seen  llyiii^  wcnL  On  Ihc  iwsi  dny  a  bear  vvi'lghiii};  T!M» 
pounds  was  kiih-d.  Aj;ain,  on  (he  1  Kh,  was  a  (lock  of  d.inks 
H»'('n  living  west.  And,  two  dayw  later,  in  the  same  direetion, 
was  discovered 

LAND. 

It  was  first  seen  by  Mr.  Onnbar,  when  aloft.  The  ship  was 
then  in  latitnde  7(1  t.T  20"  north,  hnigitnde  UW  :t'X  45"  <'ast- 
the  tirst  seen  since  March  24,  ISSO.  Fonr  days  later  app<'ar- 
ances  of  another  island  a  little  farther  west  were  noted,  and 
four  days  still  later  a  separate  island  was  made  out.  Tlie 
proj>ress  of  the  vessel  thus  far  during  the  new  year  was  satis- 
faet<U'y,  namely, ;{]()  mile>;  ncuthwest. 

The  nearer,  more  eastern  and  first-discovered  land  was 
named  Jeannette  Island;  the  other,  Henrietta  Island,  in  Inmor 
of  Mr.  IJennett's  mother. 

On  the  last  day  of  May  ('aptain  I)e  Long  despatched  Mr. 
Melville,  with  Messrs.  Dunbar,  Nindemaun,  Ericksen,  Jiartlett, 
and  Sharvell,  to  the  latter,  which  was  comimted  to  be  about 
twelve  miles  distant.  "My  anxiety,"  says  I)e  Long,  "will  he 
endless  and  unremitting  until  T  get  all  hands  under  my  wings 
again;  and  I  pray  God  so  to  aid  them  and  guide  us  that  no  mis- 
hap may  occur." 

On  the  next  day  it  was  discovered  by  the  doctor  that  at 
least  six  of  the  men  were  sutTering  from  the  effects  of  lead- 
l)oisoning,  engendered  probably  by  the  long-continued  use  ol 
canned  tomatoes,  which  showed  traces  of  the  poison,  the  acid 
of  the  fruit  having  worked  chemically  upon  the  solder  of  the 
cans. 

On  June  Hth  Melville's  party  returned.  They  landed  on 
the  island  on  Thursday,  June  2d  (June  IM,  true  time),  hoisted 
the  silk  flag,  and  took  possession  of  it  in  the  name  of 

THE  GREAT  JEHOVAH  AND  THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA, 

Upon  it  they  erected  a  cairn  in  which  was  deposited  a  record 
which  had  been  sent  with  them  by  Captain  De  Long.    Tlio 


on,    LIFE   IN   THE   OHEAt    WHITE    WORLD.  3»3 

iHlnnd  was  f,,„ml  t„  i„.  „  ,l,.»olat<.  r,„.k,  „p„„  ,vhich  rostH  a 

.u  ■.     Dou  1  „.„,  „,  |,l„..k  g„in,.,n„.s,  u..»li„K  „„  ,|„.  |„.,.,ini,„„.s 

"f "-  :VT ' ">• "'«"»  "f  «"'"<■  "'■""•    «"."-  .""«H  Kn,4  „  d 

.';:;'"'"  "    '•";"  »"■■  I" «"t  •.".•!<.     T.„.  po«i  io„  of" 

'■'""' ,"■''■"  ":'•''  "*  '""t""-  ■■°  «'  >'"rtli,  l„„Ki„„l,.  ir.7"  4,T 

n"'v  •..""*  ';'■';:;''""■'"• '"'""''-  '"•!*• ™°  ^-^  ""rti.,  lo-witiMi,. 

•.«  r*  ,.a»t.    "Thank  (i,Ml,"  «-.-it,.»  I),.  !,,„,(;,  ..,„•  b,  v,-  aT least 

'"■" "'■',"  "«'wl.V-.nH,.,.n..., art  of  .IHr.aHl^  a.nl  a  ,  .rfi 

""» Jo"n„.,v  has  h„.„  a,.,.„„,,,|i„h,,l  without  ,li.sa.st,.r  " 

» .  h  h,s  t  „.:   r„n,l,.M,a„n,  saff.-ri,,^.  of  ,h,.  ,.,.a„„.s,  ..all..,! 
"P"«  K n.  ks,.>,  f.appb- 1  i„..t„r,.  „f  ™,«ieu.„  t„  the  arh  n  rn,„.t, 

i<  I  hands,  wl„,.h,  I„„,,i„.  as  with  «„.,  rans,.,!  him  t,,  h.s,. 

I"  thes,.  but  al«„  to  a  v<..-.v  lar^o  and  s„r,.  u.,s,..  l'„„r  Kricksen 
-  great  y  surprised,  and  be  ,.,„b.d  an.l  s„nirn,e.l  in  t Ve  ™  ^^ 
ke  an  eel   wl„h.  the  men  sood-natuivdly  suK«.'sted  tl,a      e 

nis,  If  on  top  of  an  u-.-hinnnioek  lest  be  n„dt  bis  way  tlirou-b 
I"'  floe;  that  be  be  plaeed  in  the  foreeastle  of  tl  e  sh      1""' 
Leater;    bat  be  was  "hot  enough  to  u.ake  the  snow  b iss'^"  etc 
.     nnftinK  steadily  westward,  the  vessel  was  slowly  mr,^' 
."«  fi-on,  the  sight  of  land.    On  the  nlRbt  of  the  fllh  ,be  w.s 
subjeeted   o  several  severe  jars,  and  a.nhlst  a  fea'f,    s,    L";, 
and  eraeking,  what  was  left  of  the  idd  ei„b.v  v..,„i       '     ,     " 
opened  to  a  width  often  feet.  ^'slXyjanl  water  lane 

The  further  history  of  the  ".Teannette"  is  brief     rraclin.- 

e'b'z;:"::  ^i^  r:  •: "'  "r  "■"""■"'""^  ■"■•-"■'■■  '^^^ 

r unel^     .,    f      ,"','• '""'  •■'*  *  "■  "'•  "f  J"'"'  12th  (Monday 
June  13,  true  tune),  she  slowly  sank  on  an  even  keel  i,  Ht      i. 

"    15'  north,  lonptude  ]5r,°  east.    All  on  ho.    1  „  .'  f 

-ape  to  the  lee  with  an  abnndanee  of ,    j    "    Z^.'. 

1  gs  s^..dSe.s  boats,  and  other  supplies.    "Oood-bye, ,      .,       .A 
-.am  D,  Lo„K  sadly,  as  she  went  to  the  bottom. 

At  length,  on  the  evening  „f  the  18tb  of  June,  began  the 


394 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


retreat  southward,  "hoping  with  God's  blessing  to  reach  the 
New  Siberian  Islands,"  and  thence  to  make  their  way  "by  boats 
to  the  coast  of  Siberia."  Traveling  by  night  (when  the  sun 
was  circling  lowest,  above  the  northern  horizon),  they  slept 
during  the  day  (when  the  sun  was  circling  highest,  above  the 
southern  horizon).  On  the  25th,  at  midnight— the  dinner  hour 
— careful  observation  showed  their  position  to  be  in  latitude 
77°  46'.  They  had,  therefore,  as  they  journeyed  southward 
over  the  ice,  been  drifted  with  it  to  the  northwest,  and  the  end 
of  the  week  found  ihem  twenty-eight  miles  farther  north  than 
when  they  began  the  retreat.  The  course  was  thereupon 
changed  to  the  southwest,  which  would  intersect  the  drift  of 
ice  to  the  northwest  and  bring  them  to  the  edge  of  the  ice 
more  rapidly. 

Fogs,  lanes  of  water  having  to  be  bridged  as  often  as  'five 
times  in  a  single  half  night,  riJns,  "hot  weather,"  causing  the 
men  to  suffer  although  the  temperature  of  the  air  in  the  shade 
was  only  30°,  and  several  enfeebled  men — those  suffering  (tf 
lead-poisoning — retarded  progress.     On  the 

FOURTH    OF    JULY 

all  the  flags  were  set  flying  in  honor  of  the  day.  On  Suuda.v, 
the  10th,  considerable  "needle  ice,"  as  it  is  termed  by  Paiiy, 
was  encountered.  In  the  opinion  of  that  daring  navigator  thi;i 
is  caused  by  rain-drops,  but  in  the  Judgment  of  De  Long  "by 
the  more  rapid  drawing  away  of  the  salt  in  some  places  than 
in  others,  leaving  bunches,  or  tufts  of  long  spikes," 

Supper  was  had  at  7:30  a.  m.,  after  which  coiisiderablc  ex- 
citement was  created  by  the  appearance  of  laiid  to  the  soutli- 
west.  As  the  nearest  known  Siberian  island  was  yet  distant 
120  miles,  were  they  approaching  some  hitherto  unknown 
island?  At  8:45  the  usual  divine  service  was  held.  On  the 
following  day  it  was  found  that  they  were  in  reality  approat  lir 
ing  new  land.  On  this  day,  too,  many  dovekies,  several  gulls, 
and  one  auk  were  seen,  and 

A    LIVE    BUTTERFLY 

was  picked  up.  The  frail  thing  had  undoubtedly  been  blown 
from  the  laud  farther  south.    This  circumstance  recalls  to  the 


OR.    LIFE   IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  395 

Writer  the  great  numbers  of  butterflies  nf  t.n.- 

floating  far  out  at  sea-probabT2  ^m  iL  off  t?'"'' '''° 
Labrador  upon  our  rpd.-n  f„  xr  1^,  """^''— "f  the  coast  of 
ber,  1894.  '"™  ""'"  ^"'•"'  ^'eenland  in  Septem- 

iugS  were^;f '"if  V'  ""'k'^  ""'"'^»"  ™»-"  --^  """'bear. 
o«X  a  seal    a, Uw*'','''  '?."''"«  """-«''  ""^  --'  <>!«■ 

thin  snow  crust.     f„     TyTtvlntL  • '""'''''  '"'^  '"""''  «'« 

"Tn  t'hX;r"  r  ™^^  '^"  --^^^roVL^ir^^ 

ilioice  food  for  several  davs     T„    •'*       i  "''"  "'"'  ''»«« 

shrimps,  small  fishX  smX  n    >         """""^''   ''''■•'"   '"'""J 
On  the  21«t  rt   '"-e  smelts,  and  sea-anemones. 

On  the  23d  the  '         '*™'''"  """■'•'^«  ^""'''^  «<^™- 

"STARS   AND   STRIPES" 

were  unfurled  in  vipw  nf  fi.^  «      i     i. 

next  day  Mr.  tV,  1  .s  „     t  t^^r^T'"''"'  "•»"'■    «»  the 

•shore,  abreast  a  lar^e gla.ier  Tw  1  f '!  "^'"*  "  '""''  "« 
;ft-..oted  a  landin,,^,*  cXs  of'Tnlld's  :.;:"""  """^ 
furled  and  possession  of  if  +..h.    •     !,  ^"'^*^^  ^^^«tes  were  un- 

«f  the  United  ^tZl     T  "'  *^"  ""'"*'  '^^  ^''^'  P»'^«nlent 

states.     It  was  very  appropriately  named 

BENNETT  ISLAND. 

™u::i:t;L.r;:j:s.!':;™  ;•;  r'^«™"-  -'the 

Hie  date  was  ehauL^ed  to  H.    /    ^  "^  ^^""-     "^*  ""'^  ^^^e 

n.ecorreHed  .-aJXl ::;r;;;;;:::-^^  "'■*^-.  •'"'.  29t,„ 

i".  tie::;,;;::,L:rti'r "«::;:;::""« "'';  '*•■•"  -" '« """<• 

'i'>'(?),an..ih;sts,.H„;™T:'r,  "';"■''''';'  *"f"'  ■'"•"'  "■y- 

e...  a  Piece  of  reindeer  J^^:^':!!::^ -t::::zz:;z 


SMt 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  TH£3  NORTH  POLE.' 


lection  of  drift-wood,  were  brought  in.    Later  these  collections 
were  increased  in  great  abundance. 

Mr.  Melville  found  a  large  vein  of  bituminous  coal.  It 
burned  very  readily.  Hematite,  from  which  brown  metallic 
paint  is  made,  was  also  found.  The  seam  was  from  six  to 
twenty-four  inches  thick  and  at  an  elevation  of  one  hundred 
fifty  feet  above  sea-level. 

Dr.  Ambler  found  the  island  to  be  of  volcanic  origin  and 
composed  of  trap  rock  containing  feldspar,  silica  in  various 
forms,  lava  varying  in  color  from  yellowish-brown  to  dark 
green,  brick-colored  clays,  quartz,  stalagmites,  and  stalactites, 
etc.  The  stratification  was  horizontal.  Fossils  and  two  va- 
rieties of  gypsum-like  stones  were  also  found. 

Of  the  thousands  of  birds  which  covered  the  cliffs  enough 
were  secured  to  afford  all  delicious  food  while  on  the  islaml. 
Those  fried  in  bear's  fat  were  pronounced  luxurious.  From 
small  streams  was  obtained  a  most  welcome  supply  of  ])uiv 
water,  fresh  and  sweet. 

In  an  excursion  along  the  southern  shore  Mr.  Dunbar  found 
traces  of  bears  and  foxes,  grouse  or  ptarmigan  droppln-s 
probably  traces  of  the  Arctic  hare,  an  old  bone,  i)robablv  tlmi 
either  of  a  musk-ox  or  a  walrus,  and  a  bear's  winter  "house 
divided  into  inner  and  outer  apartments.  He  also  found  twd 
glaciers— the  more  distant  and  larger  being  the  on-  seen  bv 
the  party  on  the  2()th.  H  was  three  miles  across  its  face  :uu\ 
fifty  or  sixty  feet  high.  On  the  ice  foot  near  it  was  much  "crim- 
son  snow." 

A  hundred  feet  above  the  sea-level  and  five  hundred  nj)  the 
slope  was  a  quantity  of  drift-wood  which  had  i)robably  been 
carried  th(  r.-  by  the  gradual  upheaval  of  the  land. 

The  extinct  volcano,  four  or  five  miles  from  the  encamp- 
ment at  Cape  Emma,  was  found  to  be  neai-ly  a  mile  inland. 
In  attempting  to  cross  it  Mr.  Dunbar,  with  Ah^vey  and  Ane- 
guin,  was  stopped  by  fog  when  at  an  elevation  (.f  about  1,000 
feet.     At  that  jKunt  were  picked  up  marine  shells. 

Li(Mitenant  Thipp  was  also  sent  to  examine  the  west  coast 
and  made  a  trip  of  seventeen  miles,  bringing  back  quite  a  col- 


Oft,   LfF6  tN  TSB  OEBAT   WHITE  WORLD  39, 

:rX.  *•  ""'""^  ''""""'«"'^<'  "'-  --^  -<le  -n,e  good 

east.  'aiituae  7b   38  north,  longitude  148°  20' 

Before  leaving  the  island  two  of  the  poorest  dogs  were  shot 

ethri„';?st™T;  ";:&  r--""-'  '^"^  --"":  t"ht 

gained  t£  so'uthern  txfre^u;:?""  '""*^'  ""^^  ^^'""  """*' 

THADDEUS,    OR   PADDEJEPFSKOI    ISLAND 

Here  the  explorers'  feet,  for  the  first  timo  i„  t 
;vann  n.o.s  and  grass  u^on  real  ZTZVoZH^^^^^^^^^ 
the  only  dog  remaining,  all  the  others  havC  h  f  "««^^r,» 

disposed  of,  shoH^ed  Ms  delicTht  hv  .      ^  ^  .   "  reluctantly 

niings,  whole  holes  were  very^^^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^^  ^- 

the  tracks  of  a  hare  whoi!?  °"'"f,^"®-     '^ere  were  also  seen 

-nderllngs,  d^e^:'  o^^s  ^n^pT 'seaT' Y  ^'  "'''''  ^<^-' 
;-;;a.a  droppings  of  r;inde^r,  'anTtt  r"niCre^,/r 

Again,  on  September  4th   after  p  hai-n 

;'-^rrrth\rrrr^ 

."  the  «.g.„rr;rat :;:  xrint:;  rts7:"«^ 

:::"=;,x^;:e':;:^;rti^;r:K'^^^ 

,i.:p.  ,        ,  ^  ^ '*""  orown  owls,  ^rreat  nilps  nf 

iMft-wood,  and  several  ruined  huts.  In  one  of  the  huts^^  e 
found  rags  stuffed  in  the  chinks,  an  elephant  tu  k  a  fo^  a 
spoon  and  a  drinking-cup  of  wood,  and  a  uZLu  co  n  a 
-peck,  dated  1840.  The  hut  was  plastered  with  mud  on  t'he 
I'oof  and  sides  and  was  built  with  a  porch 

Pine  and  spruce  logs  lay  about  in  great  abundiTu.p     q 
of  the  wood  bore  fresh  marks  of  axes  ^C    '^""^^'"'"-     ^^""»^ 

Steering  southwesterly,  the  forenoon  of  the  10th  brought 
ti.e  boats  along  the  north  shore  of  t>rought 

SEMENOVSKI    ISLAND 

;vlHch  appeared  to  be  about  one  eighth  of  a  mil.  in  ..-.uk  ,„. 
r.  o.n  SOU.  100  feet  high.     It  seemed  to  be  washing  a^^^j  Z 


&9S 


fHE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORl^H  fOLEj 


much  mud  was  visible.  Upon  its  top  a  deer's  antler  and  some 
mastodon  teeth  were  found.  In  the  afternoon  a  fine  doe  was 
killed.  Her  fawn  was  shot  at,  but  escaped.  The  doe  had 
probably  remained  on  this  island  in  the  spring,  behind  the  herd 
migrating  northward,  in  order  to  bear  her  young,  and,  with 
the  return  migration  in  the  fall,  would  probably  have  agaiu 
joined  her  kind.  The  water  obtained  here  tasted  "hoggish" 
and  was  filled  with  animalculae  and  "red  grubs." 

Again  getting  under  way  on  the  morning  of  the  12th,  Wa«- 
silevski  Island  was  passed  in  the  course  of  the  forenoon  and 
the  last  stretch  toward  the  Lena  delta  begun.     That  night 

IN    A    FEARFUL    GALE, 

the  three  boats  containing  the  party  became  separated  and 
never  again  met.  The  second  cutter,  in  charge  of  Lieutenant 
Chipp,  with  Messrs.  Dunbar,  Sweetman,  Kuehne,  Warren, 
Sharveil,  Starr,  and  Johnson,  was  never  afterwards  heard  of. ' 
Four  days  later  the  other  boats  reached  the  long-struggled- 
for  delta.  The  whale-boat,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Melville,  witli 
Lieutenant  Danenhower  (disabled),  and  Messrs. Newcomb,(\)le, 
Wilson,  Leach,  Lauterbach,  Bartlett,  Manson,  Aneguin,  and' 
Tong  Sing,  entered  one  of  the  numerous  mouths  of  the  river 
near  Cape  Borkhia,  at  a  considerable  distance  south  of  Barkin, 
the  objective  point  for  all  the  boats. 

^  De  Long's  party  having  landed  from  the  first  cutter  on  the 
17th,  he  followed  his  custom  of  depositing  a  record  iudlcatiu}; 
the  progress  of  the  expedition.  This  was  near  Lighthouse 
Point,  the  northernmost  locality  in  the  Lena  delta.  He  then 
began,  on  the  19th,  the  terrible  march  southward,  following 
the  upward  course  of  the  river.  Had  he,  instead,  turned  west"- 
ward  and  traveled  about  thirty-five  miles,  he  would  undoubt- 
edly have  reached  the  native  settlement  at  North  Bunlun  in 
safety.  But  alas!  his  chart  contained  no  information  con- 
cerning this  friendly  community  and  he  blindly  followed  the 
course  of  starvation  and  death. 

From  the  start,  Ericksen  and  Lee,  in  their  enfeebled  slate, 
retarded  the  rapid  progress  of  the  party.  On  the  20th  seven 
or  eight  deer  were  seen,  but  none  was  secured.    Numerous  fox 


OR.    LIFE   IN   TH&    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  390 

•  imnd';h:ro:'Srs'  '"^  "''^'  ■"^'"  -« »■'- »- «» 

escaped.  ^  '"  '^"P'"""  «■"'  t""-  "ther  ten  deer 

was  bur  ed  in  the  river     fin  ti.„  i      "''"'"''>»  the  (>th,  and 
board  inscribed:  ^''"''  *"*"■<■  ""*"  "  P"«'«l  « 

IN   MEMORY. 
H.    H.    ERICKSEN. 
OCT.  6,  1881. 
U.    S.    ».    JEANNETTE 

into'':xt"b;-!  'm:tr  rrr '"  *'■"  "^^  --^  --<> 

.•..«!.  Presfrvti'b/hrnlater'  ""'"  "  "'^  "»'-  ^^  '-'' 
^^^^This  was  the  one  hundred  sixteenth  da,  ont  since  leaving 

Two  days  later  De  Long  and  party  were  overtaken  hv  n 
severe  «now  storm  which  continued  till  the  arrnoorof  the 
14th  and  prevented  their  advancing.  n..re  than  a  mile 

Again  advancing  a  short  disiance  on  the  i-,  h  1h. 
camped  near  an  emptv  o-Min  mn         \  Tr  '  ^^'"^^  *'°" 

AW.vo..,  T^^K,"r-\"''^'"  '-^^^^    "'•    flat-bottomed    boat. 

'™«d  to  be  d.ing  and  was  baptiL  ^  t  rb.tMC 


400 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


sunset  he  breathed  his  last  and  was  buried  in  the  ice  of  the 
river. 

On  the  19th  the  camp  was  shifted  a  short  distance— for  the 
last  time. 

Meanwhile,  Nindemaun  and  Noros  were  struggling fonvard. 
Keeping  along  the  west  bunk  of  the  river,  crossing  sand-pits 
and  streams,  sleeping  in  snow-banks,  seeing  game— a  herd  of 
reindeer,  a  crow,  and  an  owl— at  a  tantalizing  distance,  they 
reached,  on  the  evening  of  the  19th,  some  huts,  in  one  of  whieii 
they  found  some  fish-nets  and  other  articles  and  a  quantity 
()f  blue  molded  but  tasteless  fish,  of  which,  having  built  ii 
large  fire,  they  proceeded  to  eat. 

Dysentery  now  added  to  their  weakness  and  they  were 
obliged  to  re.n^in  by  the  fire  within  the  hut.  The  place  where 
they  then  were  is  known  as  Hulcour.  Would  that  their  com- 
panions had  been  there  with  them! 

When,  at  noon  of  the  22d,  the  two  men  were  preparing  to 
eat,  a  figure— a  man— suddenly  appeared  at  the  door!  It  tvas 
oae  of  the  natives,  but  he  could  give  them  nothing  save  a  deer 
skin,  a  pair  of  skin  boots,  and  a  sign  that  he  would  shortly 
return  to  them.  He  then  disappeared  on  his  sleigh,  drawii 
by  reindeer,  leaving  the  men  to  (juery  whether  they  had  acted 
wisely  in  alloAving  him  to  go.  Noros,  iiowever,  was  confideut 
that  he  was  a  good  Christian  and  v.ould  return. 

That  very  evening  he  did  return,  with  two  companions  and 
supplies.  After  partaking  of  food,  the  two  men  were  placed 
in  the  sleighs  and  driven  about  fifteen  miles  west  of  the  river, 
where  they  were  kindly  received  by  a  small  party  of  natives. 

In  spite  of  Nindemann's  efforts  to  make  them  understand 
his  desires  to  return  to  the  assistance  of  their  companions  in 
the  rpar,  he  failed  to  do  so,  and  on  the  next  day  the  entire  paitv 
drove  southward  until,  at  the  end  of  two  days,  on  the  evening 
of  the  24th,  they  arrived  at  Ku  Mark  Surka. 

Meanwhile,  Th^  Long  had  recorded,  where  we  took  leave  of 
him  on  the  19th,  ;is  follows: 

"October  21st,  Friday.— One  hundred  and  thirty-first  day. 
Kaack  was  found  dead  about  mid.niglit  bei  w<-^^u  the  doctor  and 


ice  of  the 
e — for  tli(» 

^forward. 

sand-pits 
-a  herd  of 
luee,  they 
'  of  which 

quantity 
g  built  ii 

bey  were 
ice  where 
heir  ooni- 

paring  to 
!  It  was 
ve  a  deer 
1  shortly 
\i,  drawn 
lad  acted 
i^onfldeiit 

lions  and 
'e  placed 
he  river, 
atives, 
[lerstaiid 
nions  in 
ire  party 
evening 

leave  of 

irst  day. 
ctor  and 


(1. 


^H 


« 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


.■KV 


%     3 

I 

11       »i 


O 

1/1 


c 

>  - 

Xi  I-. 

•o  J 


rt    - 


c   . 
o  ; 

U    75 


(1. 


401 


in.vsoIf.    Lee  died  about  noon.     Kead  m-,vorv  f       •.      . 
found  he  was  going  Pidjei.s  for  sick  wIkmi  wc 

-a  "r:r;.f::::rrs;7r ''^\     

i«..    Tlu.  ,loet,,r  Collins   m,i  i  ,       "'"'  '''""'•''  ""»  "" 

out  „,  .„„t.  ;Ve::''.;;;';;:'/,r,':: '''™' '"""""  "'^'  ™™- 

".Huaged  to  get  enougb  wood  iu  beC     ni       .•''  ',"      ""'" 
diviue  service     Buffering  i„  „.„.  „,f'^;  „;;;'"  1-*  "f 

a  Uussian  exile  nan.ed  K^.-Lu,  ,1'  "i  ,;,,';  '"''  ""'"-' 
l'"..g  of  tl,e  state  of  affairs,  for  he  re  eae'  J?', .?'''"• 
nette"  and  "A.nerieansk,"  a^d  ti.ev  .n™ ,  ,:*  '1  ?'*""■ 
something  about  "St.  I'etersbiaV'   ,,..l  '*"  *"'■'' 

f-rre,I  tbat  he  desire.]  them  to  ,?..it  """«■■">"•'<-"  and  i„. 
•'.at  city.  A  note  Zl  at^d  n«, r;rrr,  r  "^  T  '" 
with  it  on  the  next  morning  for  B,"l,  n  n.,?.i  '""^^ 

following  shortly  afterwar,!      T  ev    '  '^'"''l'".'"""  '""'  »»'■'« 

.•I.arge„famaniithaX„nV;:ii:i:::r  "'•'""  "''"'''  '" 
Arriving  at  Bulun  on  flip  «>Ofii  +i. 

".al.  a«ain:b„t  insterd    .  t   ,  e     m  m^ll^^^^^^^^       ","■'■*  I^- 
also  spoke  something  conoernin^  t   'X  V  Tlu^^^^^^^^ 
fore  prepare,!  another  .lispatch  and  addrC"   it  t„  t  ,^  ^      '^ 

terran^nX^wirrc,:'::;:"  In'  -'% "'"  "-■■ 
t  ^r  jr ni^ -~- -- »"--.%" 

Melville,  are  /on  X  ™;ve";r  'r'"""""^  "*'•"  ^■""-  "■•• 
<rew  were  all  dead  ''Rntt,  '^''*  '""*  *"<'  ""aioboat's 

vine's  story  waTsoon  to  d-    '7  '"'""'  ""'  '"''"'  ""''  '*''■  •^'-'■ 
y  was  soon  told,  when,  on  the  17th  of  September, 


402 


THE   SEARCH   FOR  THE   NORTH   POLE; 


Iw'  whaloboat  had  tonchod  at  Cape  liovkhia,  and  tw<,  davH 
a.r    he  native.  .       h.  ,)lme  ^vere  met  with  by  wh<.m  a  week 
later  they  were  usHi.sted  to  get  to  Oee-o-mo-vi-ul-^cke,  farth<.r 
Houth,  they  were  obliged  tc,  remain  there  to  recupemte  and 
find  means  of  advancing  to  liulun.     While  there  Melville  had 
iiH-  the  HuNsjan  exile,  Kus-mali,  and  engaged  him  to  go  to 
Bulun  to  engage  food,  clothing.  .^J  fe.u.H  that  the  part  v  might 
be  transported  thither  at  once.     Kus-mah  t(,ok  his  d.Mmrttire 
on  this  mission  <,n  the  lOth  of  October,  met  Nindemann  and' 
Noros  ni  Ku  Mark  Kurka  0,1  the  27th,  obtaining  from  then,  the 
telegram"  which  they  supposed  he  desired  to  forward  to  St 
I  etersburg,  but  instead  took  to  Hultin  and  thence  to  Melville' 
at  (leeomovilocke,  arriving  there  on  the  evening  of  the  2*)th     ' 
Upon  reading  the  m,te  Mr.  Melville  left  his  partv  tempo- 
rarily in  charge  of  Lieutenant  Danenhower  and  imm.diatelv 
started  for  Bulun,  where,  as  ue  have  seen,  he  unexpe.tedlv 
appeared  before  Nindemann  and  N(;ros  on  the  2d  of  Novc^mber 
^      While  all  this  v  as  taking  place,  the  brave  De  Long  wrote 
in  his  .journal:  " 

"October  27th,  Thursday.-One  hundred  and  thirty-seventh 
day.     Iversen  broken  down. 

"October  28th,  Friday.-One  hundred  and  thirty-eighth  dav 
Iversen  died  during  early  morning. 

"October  29th,  Saturday.-One  hundred  and  thirty-ninth 
day.     Dressier  died  during  night. 

"October  30th,  Sunday.-One  hundred  and  fortieth  day 
Boyd  and  (Jortz  died  during  night.     Mr.  Collins  dying." 

Within  a  day  or  two  after  meeting  Nindemann  and  Noros 
at  Bulun,  Melville  had  despatched  Lieutenant  Danenhower  to 
Yakutsk  with  the  weakest  of  his  party,  while  he  himself,  wit), 
soine  of  the  natives,  proceeded  to  descend  the  river  in  search  of 
De  Long. 

Danenhower  having  first  led  the  party  to  Bulun,  there  left 
Nindemann  Noros,  Bartlett,  Lauterbach,  Manson,and  Aneguin 
to  regain  their  strength  and  to  assist  Mr.  Melville.  He  with 
the  rest  of  the  party,  reached  Yakutsk  after  a  journey  of  1  '50 
miles  on  the  17th  of  December,  '         ^       ' 


OR, 


"F-E   IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE   WORLD 


On  1  ■  ""'  ^^ 

«li.M-,.,  at  th<..(in.P,  tlioy  wore  all     i  .'''"■"'"•'""■nf,  a,i,l 

'■'■"<""l  tin.  A,.,.ti.  ,..„,».   frn,"     ""■    ^*"  """  ♦'•iP  "" 

I  nit«l  states.  '-"".and  Jong hiDg  returned  to  the 

Melville,  with  the  remainder  of  ti, 
remained  to  s,,„„.|,,,,,,e  „;;'""'  ''"\P--"^y  ««  v,.l„„teer«, 
«'nrtin«  fr,„„  Mat  V'ai  aTa  h  ^    fth       '     .'"""■"■"™"^''- 
March,  iss-  Melville's  ■„.         f  "^  '"'■'"■'■'''  ""  <h»-  23d  of 

•'.<'  ba,  nnti'l  lit:  i'^ V'  ^.r  h"-  '""^"■^'  "^^''"  ""'"-'> 
lands;  finally  we  oame  uTi^lT'  \  '^  ""''""  ""  «'<'  '"'ad- 
i--     I  jumped  .fp  '„  Ihe'  hea  had"'"  "'"'  """  *■"-  '"^"-' ' 

made.     ♦     •     ♦     Ah.,..f  «,     .       ,  "^^'"^^  ^^^  hart  been 

«■...  re  the  flre  had       .  S?;„/;r:^''  '-"^  '"»°  t^e  poin^ 
ins  up  out  of  the  snow  abll .  L^  ''  ''""■•  ^"^^^  "h'-'l- 

«otherwithapieee„f  op,      s    fn'  tl"  T,""'  ""'"  '"""ed  to- 
""'I  S"inR  «..  to  theplaee'on  .T*         ,  ''''"''P''''"'^*''<-''l«l. 

'■•  "'"'"t  -ishl  in.hes  out  o?  the M  '    1"';"' ?"  ^''-  ■''•■^- 
the  natives  to  rtlffTino- onf  fh«  T  '  Ntai^ert 

poles.     ♦     *     •^*'^'*"**^^^^^'^««^banki,nrterneaththete.t 

""ried  in  the  sLw,  on    Z"  ZX'       "  "'T  ""'"•  P""""-^ 
■"e  -„  raised  way  above  their.-  ^'tre'ri!;^-;-' 


404 


THE  SEARCH  FOB  THE  NORTH  POl.B; 


)  M      ""  "•■"""•1^  .•.•.■08„ii,«l  thorn  «,  r„p,„|n  I,o  r.„„^ 

Uv.  Ainl.l,.r  and  Ah  Sai„,  tho  .„„k.     Th,.  .anla  n  „,„l  ih, 
tor  wer..  lying  with  th.-ii-  l„.a,l»  ,„  t)„.  noMI  u'      ,      ,  ,"" 

we«t  „„.,  Ah «  „,„„  „,„^, ,,  ,.,^„„  „;;;;::::;,;.-;;;■ 

witi,  hm  h,.«U  al,„„t  tho  ,l,„.tor'» ||„,  „„,,  f,,.,  ;,,     , '  '    "' 

or  where  the  arc  liad  l)een     The  (l,.,..,i„.  ''' 

driftwo.,,,.  i„n„e,.e  tru.i of  ..  7 '  h:;;:i"i';"'"''«''  "■' 

thecro,e„  „f  a  ,ar,e  ,ree.    The,  l^:,.  ^r  i    ,^  ^    X  ,"  I! 
tbere,  a„„  «„t  a  lot  of  Aretie  willow  whi..,  they  Z^Zt 

•    No  doubt  they  saw  that  if  they  di „  the  r  ver  hZ' 

» lu.^  the  water  run«,  the  spring  freshei.  would  carry  tC^ 

Contimiing  the  search,  the  bodies  of  all  the  others  save 
those  of  Er,ekse„  and  Alexey,  who  h„d  been  bnried  i    tle'rh^ 
were  reeovered  and  bnrie.l  on  an  elevation  about  .-iOO  feet    i;, ' 

thorough  searel,  left  no  donbt  that  Lieutenant  (hippli 
those  w.th  hun  had  perished  in  the  gale  of  Septen.ber  12. 
before  reaching  land.  ' 

oft!"  r '.Tr  "'  *'"'  '"""'""'■  '''<""<""'"*  Giles  B.  Ilarber 
of  the  United  States  navy,  also  made  a  thorough  seareh  of  , , ! 
delta,  with  like  results.     In  the  autu.un,  EnstnTl  nt   l 
Messrs.  Bartlett  Leach,  Lanterbach,  aud'Munso,"  IZ'S, 
the  Un,ted  States.    Wilson,  being  ill,  had  preceded  th..,, 
Aneginu  died  of  the  sn„illpo.x  on  the  journey 

Y.i^\  ?"  ™'"'f' o"  "f  ''i»  «''''«l'  Ml--  M.ilville  set  out  for 
Yakutsk,  where  he  arrived  on  the  8th  of  .June.     He  had  be 
joined  previously  by  Tolonel  W.  U.  Gilder,  Lieutenant  Zv 
and  Ensign  Hunt,  who  ha,l  accompanied  the  I'nited  «  ,  o 
steamship  "Rodgers"  „„  l„.r  propose'l  examination  o  the^o    , 

the  Bay  of  .St.  Lawrence,  these  three  men  had  persisted  in  j,,,,,.. 
oeying  overland  till  they  met  Mr.  Melville.  Frlm  Yakut.sk  I, is 
party  returned  to  the  United  States.  Lieutenant  Ila  ber  . 
mained  another  season  ,1883)  and  renewed  the  sear  h^a  ,1 
although  unsuccessful  in  its  prime  object,  he  brought  back 
panionT"       '-'-'^"-t-Commauder  De  Long   and  c  ; 


0«.    UPB  ,N  THE   o«=AT   WHITE  WOHtD. 


m 


CHAPTER  XL. 

EXPEDITION. 

ami  ,ts  WHbl,.  ,.„di„^,  i„  ,        "      '  "";'  "-"•""«'•  .-..Hear,.!,, 

"^''™*«''   ADOLP„„s   W.   GREELV 

aetmg  signal  officer  Unif^,!  «t.,t      . 

a»  well,  was  place,  i,;:;!^'"' ''''•''''''  "  "'*"'""  '""'"^'■ 
"-'y  *25,000,  tbrec.f„„,,J,„  „,  „  ,  ,     "  "'««"""y  allowance  „f 
"■■ug  a  vessel,  tUis  uudaun  'd  '    '     ""''.'"'"''"''"''  '"  ^""r- 
'a>»  f.,r  which  he  was  in  n  .  1        '       '""*'  "'  ■'-"'•■ated  de- 
a-™nge  for  the  deparfn  e  oAh        '<'^f""'»"'l<.,  pro..eeded  fo 

'■«c-  iustrnments,  boats  ,  1„^^ '  T  ""'  """'"•^  <"  -"al-  -Hen- 
aud  othei.  articles  of  di^  nl^  "n;  f-T'  '«""""-»",  lime  juice 
••qaipago,  etc.,  for  a  pWy  of  w'r  :'■■■''  ^""""^»-  """"oh'-W 
absentintheArctic^Lwft  'tw*'-''?  "'""  """"""J  *"  be 
Moreover,  by  reason  of  the  ,  n?  i  I n"",  •"  '"""»"■■•<■- years! 

ant  Greely's  way,  be  wa    obli"e     "    ''   "''"'■"'  '»  '-*»ten. 

s>t.on  for  food,  elothingandftt,  7  ',■'''"  ""' ^P-^al  requi- 
Oay^-and  this  when  it  wa"  Vei  7  ""  "'  '"^^  """■  '"-ee 
?"ality  of  all  snch  were  of  vi  ^  ,  ™  "■"'  *""  """""tv  and 
mg  so  far  north  i  "*'  importance  to  a  party  ventur 


406 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


I 


Nevertheless,  in  Senator  Conger,  General  llazen.  Major  Ap- 
pleby, and  President  Gihnan  of  Johns  Hopkins  University  tl  o 
cause  of  sdence  found  faithful  chan.j.ions,  men  who  saw  b.t- 
te.  things  than  mere  dimes  and  dollars,  poHth-s  and  partie 
and  the  LadyFranklin  Ka.v  Expedition  was  finally  enable  ,' 
leave  St.  John's,  .New  Foundlaud,  July  Ttli   1881 

An^ng  Greely's  assistants  were  tlu'^  follo'wing:'  Lieutenant 
r  F   Kislingbury,  who,  in  a  service  of  fifteen  years,  had  an 
exee  lent  reputation  for  field  work;    Lieutenant  J.  P.    Lo  l 
wood,  an  officer  of  eight  years'  experience,  a  portion  of  whi<', 

«nl  ;.•  ;,  •^'  Pliysioian  and  naturalist;  Sergeants  Israel 
and  Rice,  the  astronomer  and  photographer  respectively,  wh„ 
cheerfully  accepted  enlisted  service  in  <,rder  to  accompa'ny  the 

faithful    and    efficient    meteorological    observers.      Sergeau 
Bramard  of  the  Second  Cavalry,  was  an.ong  those  destined  to 
gain  meritorious  distinction. 

^  In  the  "Proteus,"  a  New  Foundland  sealer  (.f  IfiT  tons  rc- 
v^ter,  commander  by  (Viptain  Kichard  Pike,  the  expedition  -.r 
rivid  at  Godhaven,  or  Disco,  Greenland,  .)n  the  Kith.  At  vario'us 
points  on  the  coast  a  lot  of  fine  dogs,  fur  ch.thing,  and  wM.I 
fowl  were  secured.  A  ton  and  a  half  of  Hudson  Bav  pen,- 
mican  and  the  remains  of  a  hou.  .uivhased  in  the  preVellin.. 
^!r  T  r^"''^^   ""''^"'"  •expedition  were  also  taken 

ffreat  statesman,  and  two  Danish  Eskimos  j<,ined  the  expcli- 
tiou  from  Pittenbenk  and  Proven. 

..JV"^^-"  u"^^'  ^V'"-^'  ^''''^^  '^  >^'^^  ^««  <->'-'^«<''l  on  Julv  mu 
and  aist,  in  thirty-six  hours.  On  tln^  evening  of  the  latter  date 
a  landing  was  made  on  the  (^.ry  Lslands,  where  th(^  whale-boat 
and  prov.sK.us  left  by  Sir  Gcu-ge  Nares  in  1875  were  found  in 
good  condition.  The  depot  was  located  in  a  small  cove  on  the 
southern  end  of  the  southeast  island  <.f  the  group.  The  cans 
of  Austraaan  beer,  though  exp<,,sed  on  the  bare  ro.-ks  <lir<.tlv 

well.  Undoubtedly,  provisions  <.ached  would  keep  much  Ion-!,. 


1 

6R,    LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE   WORU,.  ,„ 

an  oar,  ^ielT  ^    J  ^  IZl:::.!"''''!  T-'"""'  ''"^^  ^ 
tions  of  Melville  Bay  wrecks     In ',  fin'  '*"-  "''''™"^  P™" 

trance  to  Whale  Sound.    The  wrTter  Ns  1      •'  Tf  """  ™- 

ocean  current  on  the  west  ™a.t  „f  o:::;'::^    '"''  """""•'■^' 

the  water's  ed4  was  L  ,«'""*' '"'""'  ""'■*>'  J"'"-'!"  "•""• 
expedition  inlslo  rSi^VMe  V  '"""  '""  ""'  ""'  "'■'«"•'"' 
the  ''Pandora"  ("Jeannett^-o! '';',"'■■  """,' '"'  "'"  "'^'"S^  "> 

«.andwerehunLe~L*du?Us„;:trr'''  ""'!  "'  ""■ 
l"'ing  too  far  gone  for  u«p     '„'^'' "'''"■•&  the  eggs,  however, 

placed  about  twent/^trbovese?;   ■'';""'"    *""   '"'■«'■  '■•■'^''• 

.•xtre„,e -uthwest^."  LT, j';! ;:t\r;if;i''';'''' r, *"" 

"■ere  d<.posited  about  six  in,!  -,  l,-,lV  i  "'  ^'ttletou  Island 

was  visited  and  the  trnnr  „/'""'"""•  '^if«-b'>at  O.ve 
.'n"«o,  a  .lu™,tt     :;„";!'''''''  "  """''■'"-'--,  steau, 

«"n,  H.-.,  were  found  o;/™;:,:';;''"' "",  ""■'"• «' 

K«ki.»o  hut  on  the  south  side    f  h    is  ■,;  1  v  ,.''  'r    '"  ""  ""'" 
remains  of  nn  t?o1  •  i^i-ind  u ore  discovered  the 

liaviuo-  been  blorkf^il  hv  ..  .^  i  «'''"''«i^m\<i.>  to  the  house 

-'."ber  ofltai-u. ;,:;!;''      """""  "^ '  '"•  """■'•  ""•■"  "'0  last 

«on,e  z!;r.ui;::";::,;;t:;;:^ «;-"  -- --'  <- 1..-  r, f  ,„, 

toward  fape  I  aw      r' 1';';,,  ^"''"*'">'  '""■  ' '«■  tli.Mvfore 

-.■"'-  "f  Ha..i,e  isia:!,'-':,:  • ::;;:::" ,;:''»:" •^"" "- 

...    .-.!  .1    ,, ,{^  jjt,  smooth  J 


poiid  and  the  eutii 


eeoastof  Enesniereaiid( 


«  a  inill- 
'riiiiiell  lauds  was 


408 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


not  only  visible,  but  reflected  perfectly  from  the  water's  sur^ 
face.  The  view  was  clear  and  distinct  from  Cape  Sabine  to 
Cape  Napoleon.  The  highlands  near  Van  Kensselaer  Harbor, 
on  the  Greenland  side,  were  also  plainly  visible.  No  other 
vessel  had  gained  so  high  a  latitude  in  those  waters  with  such 
ease.  At  5  a.  m.  but  few  pieces  of  floe  or  harbor-ice  could  be 
seen  in  Kane  Sea,  and  only  two  icebergs  had  been  sighted  be- 
tween Capes  Sabine  and  Cape  Hawks. 

Cape  Hawks  was  passed  and  at  9  a.  m  the  English  depot 
of  '75  in  Dobbin  Bay  was  examined  and  found  in  fair  condition. 
Some  of  the  pickles,  preserved  potatoes,  rum,  and  the  jolly-boat 
were  taken  along.  The  depot,  like  that  on  Southeast  Cary 
Island,  consisted  of  thirty-six  hundred  rations.  Grecly  hesl- 
tatetl  to  disturb  it,  especially  the  jolly-boat,  but  as  insufficient 
funds  had  prevented  him  taking  along  a  proper  equipment  of 
boats,  he  felt  constrained  to  do  so. 

At  5  p.  m.  Cape  McClintock  was  reached  and  the  80th  par- 
allel crossed.  A  half  hour  later  Cape  Colllnson  was  sighted, 
but  owing  to  dense  fog  no  examination  of  the  small  English 

cadu^  was  made. 

At  noon  of  the  4th  Franklin  Island  was  passed,  both  coasts 
of  Kennedy  Channel  and  Hall  Basiii  as  far  as  Polaris  Pro- 
montory showing  up  plainly  in  a  dear  atmosphere. 

On  a  high  bench  on  the  north  side  of  a  creek  emptying 
into  Carl  Ritter  Bay  was  established  a  small  depot.  In  a  short 
excursion  u})  the  valley,  Lieutenant  Kislingbury  discovered 
traces  of  hares,  foxes,  and  musk-cattle.  Half  a  mile  off  shore,  in 
a  sounding  of  forty-two  fathoms,  delicate  star-fishes  and  <rus- 
taceans  were  obtained.  On  shore  eight  varieties  of  flowers 
were  gathered. 

At  0  ]).  m.  the  "Proteus"  entered  the  southeastern  part  of 
La<lv  Franklin  Bay,  about  two  miles  southeast  of  Cape  Baird. 
In  tills  vicinity,  for  the  first  time,  the  voyagers  were  stopped 
l,y  i(.(.— great  pa-le-o-cry St -ic  floes  frofn  twenty-five  to  fifty 
feet  in  thickness.  A  northeasterly  wind  soon  drove  a  large 
quantitv  of  pack-ice  into  Hall  Basin  and  Kennedy  (liannel  and 
the  vessel  was  forced  southward  till  on  the  11th  she  had  lost 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


409 


forty  miles  of  latitude  and  was  tift.v  instead  of  only  eij-lit  miles 
from  the  proposed  lieadcinarters  in  Water-course  Bay.  Mean- 
Avhile,  several  schools  of  white  whales,  attended  by  their  active 
enemy,  the  sword-fish,  as  well  as  a  number  of  narwhalet^,  were 
seen.  Several  brent  --eese,  a  bo.  tswain,  a  snowy  owl,  snow 
bunting,  ringed  plover,  ivory  gull,  falcon,  tern,  and  glaucous 
gul!  were  also  observed.  Many  dovekies  appeared  off  the  cSitts 
near  Cape  Lieber.  Of  seals,  both  the  harp  and  square-flipper 
species  visited  the  vessel. 

At  length,  under  the  influence  of  a  strong  southwest  wind, 
the  ice  was  again  driven  northward,  and  the  "I'roteus"  si>eed- 
ily  regained  her  former  position  and  terminated  her  voyage 
on  the  afternoon  of  the  11th.  This  was  in  Discovery  Harbor, 
the  location  of  Captain  Stephenson's  party  just  five  years  pre- 
vious. The  ice  prevented  a  landing  in  Water-course  Bay, 
where  an  excellent  seam  of  coal  and  pleasant  shores  were  well 
suited  for  a  station.  Upon  hunling,  a  dozen  or  more  fine  musk- 
cattle  were  killed.  Thick  b(Mls  of  mosses,  grasses,  sedges,  but- 
tercups and  Arctic  poppies  smiled  a  cheering  welcome  to  the 
new-comers. 

A  week  later  the  "Proteus"  began  her  return  vovage  to  St. 
John's,  but  being  unable  to  break  entirely  through'  the  ice  in 
the  bay,  it  was  not  until  the  evening  of  the  2()th  that  she 
effected  her  escape  into  Kennedy  (liannel  and  thence  home. 
Mr.  (lay,  a  gentleman  of  refinement  and  culture,  in  order  to 
pacify  Dr.  Pavy,  who  had  taken  offense  at  him,  decided  to 
return  with  the  *M»roteus"  that  the  exi)edition  might  not  be 
deprived  of  the  services  of  a  physician.  Two  other  men,  owing 
to  the  development  of  physical  disabilities,  were  also  obliged 
to  return  much  against  their  wishes. 

Thus  left  alone,  the  i)arty  rapidly  pushed  forward  the  erec- 
tion of  a  house,  which,  when  tinished,  was  called 

FORT  CONGER, 

in  honor  of  the  Senator  who  had  so  courageously  befriended 
the  expedition.  On  Sunday,  August  .'istli,  all  were  assembled 
in  the  fort,  where,  at  10  a.  m.,  Lieutenant  Greely  read  a  se^ec- 


m\l 


410 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


turn  fr..in  tlio  Psalms  for  tb^t  day  of  the  mouth,  counseled  the 
men  upon  the  importance  of  harmony  and  calleu  their  atten- 
tion in  particular  to  that  verse  which  recites  how  delightful  a 
thing  it  is  for  brethren  to  dwell  together  in  unity.  He  also 
announced  that  it  was  both  proper  and  right  that  the  Sabbatli 
should  be  observed  and  that  regularly  every  man  would  be 
expected  to  be  present  at  the  services  on  that  day  unless  he 
had  conscientious  scruples  against  listening  to  the  readin- 
of  the  Bible.  Lieutenant  Greely,  however,  nearly  always  r(^ 
framed  from  making  comments  upon  the  selections  read  1 1,, 
recommended  that  after  services  the  men  sln.uld  take  exercis,- 
either  in  hunting  or  simply  walking  from  headquarters 

Until  about  the  middle  of  October  sl(Mlgiug  parties  were 
kept  almost  constantly  in  the  field.     Lockwood  explored  St 
Patrick's  Hay,  at  the  head  of  which  there  is  a  valley  with  sides 
dw^ply  worn  and  grooved  and  conspicuously  marked  by  mesa- 
•  lands,  first  on  one  side  then  on  the  other,  like  the  mud'tlats  of 
a  river,  from  which  it  is  to  be  inferred  that  the  valley  was  once 
below  the  level  of  the  sea  and  occupied  by  a  gla<ier.     l»avv 
and  IJice  procecnled  overland  to  dipv  TTnion  "searching  care- 
fully for  traces  of  the  missing  Meannette.'"     Severarsmall 
lakes  were  discovered,  in  one  of  which  was  seen  a  fish  six  or 
eight  inches  long.     The  English  depot  at  Lincoln  liav  was 
found  to  be  in  much  disorder,  but  a  large  (piantity  of  binf, 
stearine,  curry  paste,  onion  powder,  and  matches  were  in  ikm-' 
fect  condition.     At  the  head  of  the  bay  coal  of  good  qualitv 
was  found.     On  the  beach  of  St.  Patrick's  Bay,  (N)nuell  anil 
the  Eskimo  Christiansen  found  a  coniferous   tree  about   ten 
inches  in  diameter  and  thirty  feet  long.     It  had  evidently  been 
carried  their  by  some  current  within  two  years,  and  alioided 
the  party  a  bright,  cheery  fire.     Brainard,  "with  Jewell,  Cross, 
Salor,  and  Council,  made  a  boat  journey  to  Cape  Beechy  on 
August  8Lst  and  September  1st.    Hobeson  Channel  had  cleared 
suddenly  of  ice,  but,  upon  their  arrival  at  the  cape,  it  again  as 
quickly  filh^l  before  a  northwest  wind  and  compelled  then,  to 
return  overland.     Tn  n  trip  to  St.  Patrick's  Bav,  Gardiner 
found  an  eight-man  sledge,  a  twelve-foot  cedar  boat,  cooking 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT    WHI^E    WORLD.  411 

lamp,  an(-  a  piek-ax,  while  Lynn  alHo  found  at  Watei-course 
«ay  a  cart,  all  of  wliicii  had  been  abaii(h)ned  by  the  English 
expe<litu,n.  They  were  very  serviceable  to  the  Greely  par^ 
Loekwood  ahso  made  a  trip  to  the  Bellow8-a  vallev  twelv-e 
oi'flftoen  miles  west  of  Fort  (V>,,j.er-aiid  discovered  pieces  of 
|-«al  but  could  not  locate  the  seam.  He  also  found  a  stick  of 
kno  ty  p.ne  three  feet  lonu-  and  eij-ht  inches  in  dian.eter  frozen 

^bo,  mTp    f  't"  "f^''  "*  "^  ^'^'"'^^"^  '^^-^  the  sea  of 
about  150  feet.     In  a  trip  to  Sun  Hay,  Lieutenant  (Jreely  was 

fortuna  e  enough  to  observe  the  manner  in  which  musk-cattle 
(Obtain  their  f(,od,  namely,  by  first  removing  the  snow  by  means 
of  .the  foot,  and  then  by  loosening  the  thick  mats  or  tufts  of 
saxifraga  oppositifolia  or  dryas  octopetah-  with  nose  or  horn 
The  results  of  the  autumn's  work  were  highly  gratifviu"- 
the  men  had  received  invaluable  training,  four  depots  had^bec^n' 
established    noiHlnvard,    the    scientific    apparatus    properly 
placed,  new  discoveries  made  in  the  interior  of  (Jrinnell  Land 
and  twenty-six  musk-oxen,  ten  ducks,  two  seals,  a  hare,  and  a 
ptarmigan,  affording  about  0,000  pounds  of  fresh  meat  to  the 
party  and  as  much  offal  to  the  dogs,  secured.     Other  forms  of 
lif(S  noted  in  that  high  latitude  were  moths,  files,  caterpillars 
sp.ders,mosquitoes,  and  "daddy-long-legs,"  besides  a  few  small 
hsh  in  Lake  Alexandra.     Numerous  wolves  and  foxes  also  put 
m  an  appearance  a^  the  fort 

From  October  15th  to  Febi  .ary  2Sth  occurivd  the  Arctic 
night,  that  period  being  spent  very  busily  in  making  and  re- 
«'«»i'ding  on  an  average  520  regular  scientific  observations  daily 
and  in  advancing  the  sup,)lies  for  the  journey  northward  in 
l'<'  spring.     Until  about  the  mhldl(>  of  November,  Robeson 
(  liaiuKd  remained  more  or  less  open  and  i)reyented  tiie  trans- 
l.ortahon  of  ...nnUes  to  the  Greenland  side.     An  abundance 
of  fuel  and  loo.?,  the  latter  in  great  variety,  kept  all  in  health 
^'iid  general  good  cheer,     ^uch  luxuries  as  the  regular  bath 
and  an  oc-casional  allo^^  ance  of  liquors  and  tobacco,  together 
with  the  regular  celebrhtion  of  the  men's  birthdays  and  the 
"<"nlay8  with  games  and  special  bills  of  fare,  shortened  the 
(Jark  months  very  materially. 


-imti 


412 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


On  Christmas-fallins  on  Subbath-niany  gift^  which  had 
been  sent  aboard  the  "Proteus"  by  friends  and  well-wishers  of 
the  expedition,  were  distributed.     "A  number  of  the  men  "  s-ivs 
General  Greely,  "who  had  lived  lives  marked  by  nej-lect  ami 
indifference  on  the  part  of  the  world,  were  touched  even  to 
tears,  although  they  strove  man-like  to  conceal  them     The 
commanding  omcer  received  a  fan— not  ne  nled  for  Arctic  use- 
and  Lieutenant  Kisliugbury  a  small  dog,  which  excited  the 
more  amusement  when  he  turned  away  the  ridicule  by  calling 
out,  *0,  Schneider,  don't  you  want  to  buy  a  dog?'     Poor  Schnei- 
der, who  had  been  caring;  f(,r  the  dogs  of  the  expedition,  did  not 
hear  the  last  of  it  for  S(,>iue  time." 

At  10  R.  m.  Lieutenant  Greely  read  not  only  the  "Psalms 
for  Christmas,"  but  also  the  laoth  and  140th  'Psalms  The 
singing  of  a  hymn  and  the  doxology,  led  by  Lieutenant  Kislin.r- 
bury,  formed  an  imj.ressive  service  as  the  tenderest  feelings  of 
the  men  went  out  to  those  at  home. 

Washington's  Birthday  was  also  appropriately  celebrated 
Fi-om  March  1st  to  lOtli,  inclusive,  Lockwood,  Brainard' 
Jewell,  and  the  Eskimo   Christians^^n,  made  a  sledge  trip  to 
Thank  (Jod  Harbor,  where  they  found  the  graves  of  (Viptain 
Hall,  and  of  the  English  seamen,  Hand  and  Paul,  in  excellent 
condition.     A  considerable  quantity  of  food  and  usef  iil  articles 
cached  there  were  found  to  be  in  serviceable  condition.     From 
the  harbor  the  party  proceeded  to  Newman  Bav,  and  ^hence  on 
the  ice  to  ('ai)e  Sumner,  thus  practically  circuinscr{bin«v  Polaris 
Promontory.     Jiobeson  diannel  was  nien  recrossed  to  "Depot 
B,"  near  Cape  Bc-echey,  iii  twelve  and  a  hjjlf  hours,  and  the  re- 
turn to  Conger  was  nmde  with  all  in  exceilent  health      The 

'''ToTx/r"^''''''*"''^  "'  '''^''^  *^*^  1^*"'^^'  I'^i^  traveled  was 
— 4J.tJ    r  ahrcnheit. 

From  March  5th  to  9th  inclusive,  Pavy,  with  Lvnn  and  Es- 
kimo Jen;^  was  cmi)loyed  in  transporting  about  700  pounds 
of  provisions  to  a  point  on  Polaris  Promontory  designated  as 
the  (rap,  midway  between  ( Vipes  Lunton  and  Sumner  The 
average  temperature  in  which  they  worked  was  about  -30° 
lahrenheit.    From  the  i:Jt]i  to  the  30th  inclusive,  Brainard, 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE   WORLD.  ftj 

with  .even  men,  was  engaged  i-  a  si„,i|a,.  .,„,     t,,^ 
an»,„,rted  mel„,Ii„g  the  small  b.,at  "Dis,..,,.;,.   ->  X  ' 

On    h..  l!.th  Pavy,  Hi,.,.  „„,,  jeo«  i^ft  „„  „  „„rti,wanl  t,i„ 
Dopavfuig  f,.,.,„  u„,„|„  „      „„  ,„„  Sh  ri    ,«        ; 

winter  (juarters  of  the  "Alert"  in  ist«;  «•  ,.         ""'""'"i.  '"e 
IIHi      Ti,o  „•       ,  '"  l**!"-"',  was  reaehei   on  the 

H.  neatl   the  stone  covering  the  remains  of  the  Danish  inter 
■  .-r  Petersen   an  Arctic  hare  had  taken  „p  his  re   d  „ce 

«o.ds.    He  shall  wash  me,  and  I  shall  b,.  as  white  as  »„„w  " 

I'a  ther  on,  when  near  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  o„  , l"  l.itl, 
rnnny  races  of  mnsk-cattle,  and  tresh  tracks  of  he  f  x  le  ' 
"««i:,  hare,  and  ptarn,!(;an,  were  observed 

nort"f  onhf :,';pe';rt'zzrb ''"  ""•'"■ """"'  '""^  ■""- 

n.ov.M.lf  shore^i,',  '        beRinn.ng  to  disintegrate  and 

m,  on  shoie,  they  were  compelled  to  abun.lon  the  tent  nro 

Hi  mi  iZ  !?;r  '"*•"'  "'"*  '""'""  """"»■"  >"tit„,Ie8# 
'c a( ned  84  .  J-ort  Conger  was  again  rea.hed  on  Mav  2,1  -iftw 
an  absence  of  six  weeks.    AM  were  in  perfect  h «    h"  ,,    t ' 

b;.'t;;::;;;:f' ■«"""' «'-  -"  ■'<-  --'  ^peci:,;;;"':;;.;;::':.;:;,: 

In  a  twelve  da.vs'  trip  into  the  interior  of  (Jrinnell  I  and 

po';:  • ;  :,;:;;o;;rVi;;r;brf ;.;::;r^ 
'•i'i™ «-  fonnd  to  be  a  flord  a.'.d  z'^^z  t^z':^::':: 

lary  rhan.Iler  of  the  fnited  States  navy,  as  hIk.w  '  'i  ,  ■  i  t 
«-.v,  laeutenant  <ireeIyV  "appr  .iatio,,  of  the  great  e,,:! 
shown,  and  serious  responsibilitv  assnmd  hv  Mvi'L.  ^^ 
fitting  out  the  relief  expedition  of  18,S4.''       .,,  /    ,' '  " 

ne-ting  with  Chandler  Pi„r.l  by  means  of'  Rug      .'  Z:  7!. 
Iscovered  and  nan.ed,  an.l  the  adjacent  ,.ou„r,;  wa      Iserved 
o  abouml  ,n  game.     Later  in  the  season  Oreelv  and  o  hers  o^ 
1...S  par^.  „.„.le  further  exp.o«.tions  in  ,he  same  r  gl     l^' 


li 


414 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


u 

I 


iiivWwv  west,  <lisc()vm'iii8  "'i'  remains  of  numoroius  EHkiFii.. 
lints  uiKl  xvvy  many  ivlics.     The  vogc^talion  was  luxurianl  for 
that  httitndo  and  many  miisk-cattU',  in  droves  of  from  five  to 
more  than  tliirty  each,  were  soeu  and  several  killed.     (Jecs.. 
louji-tailed  dncks,  terns,  kin^  ducks,  turnstones,  sand-j)ii„.,.s,' 
ynlls  and  skuas  were  very  numerous.     New  discoveries  of  c,,;,! 
were  also  made.     Tlie  interior  was  found  to  be  mueli  brok('n 
and  ru.i>j;ed  and  occupied  by  numerous  snmll  lakes,  wliicli, 
beinj;  fe<l  and  drained  by  numerous  streams,  serve  as  reser- 
voirs and  dischargers  of  the  inconsiderable  snow-fall.     Sev- 
eral glaciers  and  mountains  were  noted  and  appropriately  des- 
ignated  by  the  comnunuling-  officer,  generally  in  honor  of  the 
enlisted  men  of  the  party,  through  whose  "hearty  coCiperation, 
great  persistency  and  untiring  energy"  the  trips  were  success- 
fully made.     It  should  not  be  overlooked  that  Lieutenant  (iree- 
ly  often  took  the  drag-line  himself  and  pulled  in  the  "nuin 
team"  with  his  subordinates. 

A  noteworthy  incident  of  the  summer  was  the  observation 
(»f  Decoration  Day  as  a  general  holiday.  Happily  there  were 
no  graves  to  decorate,  but  Privates  Frederick  and  Long,  in 
default  of  real  flowers,  made  a  large  bouquet  of  artificial  flow- 
ers and  placed  it  n])on  the  head-boards  set  up  by  the  British 
Expedition  in  187(1,  commemorative  of  the  young  Englishmen, 
Paul  and  Hand,  who  are  interred  at  Hall's  Kest,  on  the  Green- 
land coast. 

The  most  important  result  of  the  season's  work,  however, 
was  the  attainment  of 

THE    FARTHEST   NORTH. 

In  the  equipment  of  the  i>arty  accomplishing  this,  there  were 
five  sledges,  one  drawn  by  eight  dogs  and  accompanied  by 
C'hristiansen  as  driver  and  one  man,  the  four  otijers  drawn  by 
ten  men,  who  constituted  a  supporting  party.  The  smallest 
of  the  men,  Whisler,  w^eighed  150  pounds:  the  largest,  Ilenrv 
203  pounds.  b      ,  .,, 

Leaving  Ponger  on  the  3d  and  4th  of  April,  under  command 
of  Lieutenant  James  B.  Lockwood,  the  fith  found  the  party  en- 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    OREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  4,j 

oa.,.|,..,l  w,.|l  „ut  „u  the  i.e  of  U«bo«,.u  Chanuol.    Tl„.  i,.u„„.m 

;•",  but   „,  Imwovo,.,  i„t,.„„„  t„  ,.,t„i„  i,i,     „^,^,  ,;"^^^    »    • 
'-p™;   llcnrj-  „„ttVri„g  with  rh-.u-uatix,,,,  aL]  savs  1  m-     ':, 

::rt;t:;;::riri:;;:::r--7'''-- - 

!'<■  .•<l>.     Ih,.  w„„l  attaim.d  an  estimated  velocitv  „f  sU  v 
n  h.s  au  l„„„-.    The  ,ueu,  however,  were  ehee.-"^.  "^  "^'^ 
heniK  above  the  noi-the™  horizon  at  ,„i,l„i,.ht 

1  as8inK  Cape  S.m„,e,.  ,|,ey  traveled  ten  h««rs  over  rou"!, 

j,u»    of  wind  lifting  tlie  dog-sledge  witli  its  200  poiui.l  i„.„| 

>  .1,  s  rnek  Halston  on  the  forehead  and  severe  jj     I 
<»»■     At  this  camp  forty  lioiirs  passe.l  before  they  were    b| 
'.  have  a  satisfactory  n„.al.     Whisht-  »„ffe,,.,I  of  »■  n    „  H  e 

l"»K" 1  «I«>t  blood,  while  liiederbi.k  eoi ,   I  i    .,  if      k, 

'['-'■  dimculty  and  both  returned  to  t  ht  ^ T  ,  f u?  r'' 
nned  and  a  new  danger  was  added.  Says  lirainan  4r  ," 
he  high  eliff  huge  rocks  were  blown  w'Lch  caZ  era  h ii  g 
<l"wn  to  the  very  edge  of  the  tloe,  endang,.ri„g  „„  ^^Z 
warning  us  that  traveling  on  the  ice-foot  ww  ,t  i 
lie  j.ersisted  in."  ^  *""  <"""8<'''""«  I" 

At  this  camp  (Boat)  the  dogs  stole  about  fortv  »o,m„i  .    r 
""-*  from  th..  light  muslin  bags.    Only  t    o      'tl  , t,'.'' 

heing  now  serv„.eable,  a  third  was  e..te,n,,orize,I  and   he      r- 
again  iiegai,  to  advance  at  10  p.  „.  ,rf  ,„^  i,,^,    ,  ™  ,  »,    ; '  ; 

S'eiT^"' "' ''' """''" "'"'  •""  '"^^ ""  av:.;'!:::;' i'ti;; 
o^thera^!::;:?;;;:;—';^;:^^^^^^ 

ti^  lu  luc  cast  of  hepulse  Harbor.  lu  these 


41< 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


goiW-lhctoinpernturc.,,,,  ,hc.20el,  „t  Ai>ril  fell  to_40»,,md  ll„. 

'    I,,,.,.,,  of  ,|nrt«„o,L  ,.ia„...  „i„e  „.■  fir,  six  feel  l„u,.,  f.,„  ' 
inclicK  wide  and  t,nn-  imlies  Hiieli. 

tonlnu  TlT"  '"""!•  """'  "'  •"^'  """«""  «'V  I'"""™  I«'i- 
beiml",'..,',""''f '"'■'■  '"•'"■"''•"•'  "■"»  •■■''-•(■«li..Kl.v  <i.s(„»leful,  a,„l 

Ihe  >,lee|.,us,.b„f,.s  l„„  ,ve,v  fi,,„,„  ,„„|  ,. ,,„,  j,„  „ 

fou  >„eu  (o  ,m,.„M  them.    Tl,,.,- «e,.eof  l,ulT„lo.sld„„. 

camn"''The  ,"  "'';'"'"'':'■  «^"'-"'  '■"«""  ""'l  '""fln"!  then,  i„ 
tamp  Ihe  degs  stole  thirty  pounds  more  of  the  meat  wlii,l, 
was"thoug:lit"to  beontof  theirreaeU 

Advaneing  on  the  23d,  whe.i  onl.y  a  short  distance  fron,  th,. 

Emantping near  nimk  Horn riilTs on  the 2Jtl,, (-ap,.„  Sln.ri- 
dan  tlnton  and  niaek,  and  the  United  Wtate.  J  „„  ,ta  , 
conld  be  elearb-  «oen  at  a  ,lista„,e  of  abont  dfty  n.i  Tl , 

'"  "'    '"     '"'•''  ''"■*.'■  ™«"-  "'•"■•  tlie  Hiffs  and  ..o letelv 

soaked  tlie  skin  boots  of  the  men.  • 

About  this  ti.ue  Lieutenant  Loekwood  rea.l  a  l,.(ter  «-ritt,.„ 

(«.  rd  „tmo  and  upward,  eondilional  upon  making  fie  far- 
best  north.    Lieutenant  Loekwood  olTered  50  per  ,t,  t   ,,1 . 

Iioual  reward.    "It  .seemed  "  snv«  ('......i,.  «  . 

tliit  «iw...,..„  „.     1 ,  •    .'"'^"'    ""."  "■'•••ely,  "a  jirojier  intimation 

tliat  suecess  would  be  in  .some  wav  rewarded  " 

_  Near  tills  rami,  Loekwood  saw  a  eouple  of  ptarmi...,ns  in 
«-.nter  plumage.    On  the  25th  Christiansen  bee.™e    fck  b 
after  advaneing  a  few  miles  a  drink  of  hot  brand    ea,   «l'l 
OS  eep  and  he  recovered,  allowing  tbe  party  to  aL  r        n       ■ 

ntS^eldX'''''  '"'"""  '"■'"'  """"  '''-  -  »  -•"' 


Ti^nfTTrTi'FrT 


40°, and  the 

or.     Aboil  1 

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loug,  four 

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I'lit.  a(hli- 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  US80 

(716)  672-4503 


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Dr.  T.  C.  Chamberlin,  Head  Professor  of  Geology, 
University  of  Chicago. 
(Soe  Chapters  I.  and  XLII.) 


on.    LIFE   IN  THE    GREA'r    WHifE   WORLO.  417 

beforp  iinfr..wi  7      u  '    ^^^y  *^^^e  stood  on  "land 

m«.k.cattle  abounded     "  "'  '"'"'^'  '""^^'  >^"»"'"»-  -' 

was^':;,;v"f  ::dt::L\r:"vr  *"'"''^'  "■'^''  -"»'" "'« 

vicinitv      1  I        '^•^S*^*"*'""  "i^t  "lave  been  luxuriant  in  tUe 

oS  and  t^rrr'^v '"°  p*-"'--—!  *-' 

t^M  ciiiu  lemmings  Avere  observed.     The  tr-if.t«  ^f  o  k 
«o.n,  noHbea.  and  abundant  trace,  of  .u:^^;  l^al": 

iuoit"';::'';; 'fu^^,:'"!;"-' '-  ^rP-"'-  »-  .-«ant  n,eu, 

-  u^q^t-  cr  ::i;it"[:::r;:r"'"'- ""  -'- 

very  appr„;  i'lTy  ..esln  te^'  t""'  """""'  "■'"^''  ''"  '^'"' 
efforts  of  Brainard    whf        •       '^""""""'"■■''te  the  tireless 

«.s..  .<we  .re";^e::d\-:;:r=?e:;r^^^^^^^^^^^ 


4l8 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE); 


reached  by  mortal  man,  and  <.n  a  land  farther  north  thnn 
«uppos.d  by  many  to  exist.     We  unfurled  theXiousrar 
and  Stnpes  to  the  exhilarating  northern  breezes  wTth  an  exuT 
tation  impossible  to  describe  "  ^^"^" 

About  eight  miles  beyond  was  visible  a  headland  „„, 
wh.eh  was  bestowed  the  name  of  Kane,  and  about   even  ZZ 
still  farther,  another,  which  they  proudly  designated 

CAPE    WASHINGTON. 

the  farthest  north  of  any  land  now  known  to  exist 

In  a  large,  conspicuous  cairn  about  six  feet  high  were  ie 
pos„ed  a  record  of  their  journey  to  date  and  a  minimm,  r ' 
■stermg  thermometer,  set  at  14°  and  reading  to  -"5"     tL 
ea,rn  was  built  about  thirty  feet  above  and  as  far  from  ti.e  fee' 

On  the  summit  of  the  island  they  unfurled  the  Americn, 
flag  of  s,lk.  which  Mrs.  Greely  had  made,  in  latitude  83 '2  ' 
north,  longitude  40°  46'  west. 

On  the  16th  they  began  the  return  march  to  Conger,  where 
after  an  absence  of  sixty  days,  they  arrived  on  the  1st  of  .    „, 
strong,  healthy,  and  sound.  ' 

And  tUus  was  gained  the  proud  distinction  not  nierelv  „f 
P  antmg  the  Nation's  flag  four  miles  farther  north  Z^i^u 
of  any  other  country,  but  of  adding  125  miles  of  coast  embrn 

vl^M^        .'"'  ""'»''■•*«"*  Pliysi'-al  facts  and  of  acquirin. 
valuable  experience  for  future  work 

Had  Lieutenant  Oreely  directed'the  total  energies  of  his 
party  toward  the  Greenland  coast,  instead  of  penui     n^  ,    , 
efforts  m  the  direction  of  Cape  Joseph  Henry,  the  "fa^ le 
north"  would  undoubtedly  have  been  placed  beyon.l  tl  e  MU 
parallel,  perhaps  at  the  85tli.  m  im  >m(ii 

The  sledging  work  for  the  season  of  1882  over,  the  arrivil 
of  a  rehef  steamer  was  anxiously  awaited  at  a,nger 
none  came,  and  although  there  was  still  an  abundance  ;f  '    . 
Pl.es  for  another  year,  there  was  considerable  disco^  Igem 


I 


OR.    LiFfi   IN   THE    GRfcAT    WHITE    WORLt).  419 

ter.    The  il,  effect,  of  this,  UoweverGrle  ;"""''''■" 
of  game  in  the  virinitv  Zn  ^  ["^trations  ot  the  abundance 

rett„,rortVe'^;:reL'f;;;v^ 

A  relief  steamer,  the  "Nentjinp  "  Vm/i  ,-»,  i     ^  u 
after  „„ivi„g  at  Pa'ndora  HaZ;  in  th  "v1  i 'it  ""f  ntt';  T 
Inland,  remained  there  more  tbau  a  week  Imntil  ,L  -  ,n 
«"t  a  succession  of  southwesterly  gales"  insteaS  of  t  f 

i-awks,  n  A«  jrxiit;nVai"r;:;:rrrri:tr: 

mtle  farther  south,  but  failed  to  establish  other  ZuZZ 

and,  but  upon  arriving  at  Black  Horn  CM  ,  Aprt       t'l ^e™' 
tj-fou^"  days  earlier  thnn  in  isso  „-4-u  j,    .        ^  '  u\eu- 

smmm 

;■;»..-  of  this  trip  Sergeant  .lewell  n.ade  ^I  ,ab  e  t  dal  "ea^" 

-:.aT;ir;r^o=rn'd^L':;s^^^^^^^^ 


420 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


i^rom  April  25th  to  May  2GthLockwood  and  Brainard  with 
Christiansen,  were  engaged  in  exploring  the  interior  otGr  1 
nel  Land  the  trip  resulting  in  the  discovery  and  partial  exnlo" 
ration  of  Greely  Fiord  on  the  west  coast.  ^^"' 

As  the  summer  of  1883  advanced  apace  all  again  anxiously 
awaited  the  arrival  of  the  relief  steamer.  But  none  came  f!^^ 
a  though  the  "Proteus"  and  the  "Yantic"  passed  rpoint^ 
of  Cape  Sabine,  no  supplies  to  speak  of  were  deoositPd  h 
"Proteus"  was  crushed  in  the  ice  and  the  "Yantirmtn  i 
with  all  her  relief  stores  aboard.  turned 

Some  one  had  evidently  blundered  and  the  brave  men  nf 
Conger  were  thrown  upon  their  own  resources.  Abandonim 
the  station  on  the  8th  of  August,  1883,  after  a  perilous  voT^e 
of  hfty-one  days  the  entire  party  arrived  in  good  health 
the  29th  of  September,  near  Cape  Sabine-ou'lya  few  mi  ;!; 
west  of  Dr.  Kane's  headquarters-where,  in  the  ^rZZ 
months  of  darkness,  cold,  and  squalor,  was  to  transpire  a  sce^e 
of  miserable  yet  heroic  starvation  such  as  had  never  before 
been  enacted.  wriuje 

In  a  wretched  hut  but  little  more  than  three  feet  high  and 
built  of  stones  and  snow-blocks,  the  whale-boat  and  pieces  of 
canvas  serving  as  a  roof,  these  men,  twentv-five  in  number 
remained  huddled  together  for  long  and  painful  months 

In  November  a  party  was  sent  to  Cape  Isabella  to  obtain 
one  hundred  pounds  of  preserved  meat     ft  there  by  the  En<. 
hsh  expedition.     On  this  trip  Elison  froze  his  hands,  feet  and 
face  to  a  most  horrible  extent  and  amputation  of  the  limbs  was 
ultimately  resorted  to  in  order  to  save  his  life 

The  cravings  for  food  about  this  time  seemed  nearly  („ 
drive  some  if  not  all  of  the  men  insane.  In  order  to  relieve 
the  mental  strain,  lectures  and  discussions  on  various  topics 
were  held.  Lieutenant  Greely  talked  on  the  geography  of  the 
United  States;  Lieutenant  I^ckwood  read  from  the  "History 
of  Our  Own  Times";  Whisler  dilated  on  the  city  of  Indepen.i- 
ence,  Kansas,  as  a  splendid  place  for  business;  Frederick  and 
Long  proposed  to  set  up  restaurants  upon  their  return  the 
former  in  Minneapolis,  and  the  latter  in  Ann  Arbor,  while  Jew- 


ell  thought  that  a  erooppv  «t«..^  •    ,. 

tfe  most  satisfaoto.^  to  Wm     I 'a  h,?'",  """'•'  P™^*  '»  "^ 

the  effects  of  iut^n.^:^^;;^^  Zt  "t"^'  ""'"""'•'  '-'» 
read  the  burial  service  over  his  hi  f  ,  ^"""''■"'■■t  "leely 

-a«  buried  with  mnrkedre-'et     0:1,    *,"''"  •"''' '""'  "^ 
luterment  he  would  have  been  ft^^A-  !    "^  following  his 

quite  a  quantity  of  bread  and  hn/  u  ^^''  "■"'  ""d  ^-ved 

the  event.  ^  "'"'  *•"*'«•■  «"th  which  to  celebrate 

.     Early  in  February  Rice  and  To 

aeto  Littleton  IslanJ,  h,^pCtetdr  '""'■'<'  *°  """^  *"- 
'•ommunicate  with  the  friendfv  "  t  T  "  ""P"'  ""I «'«"  to 
ten  miles  from  the  islandTpen  watiw^  "l""'-  ^"^  ^bout 
to  the  miserable  death  hole  ™  Camo 7"  ""'  ""^  "■"'™<'" 

"Of  course  we  are  all  very  muehdf  ^^  '""''^•""d  recorded: 
;•  bold  front,  and  are  notCt  '  nT'l"''"'  "'^  P""^  '""e 
been  counted  on  to  last  untU  Mafci.  Z?*;,  """l  ^""""^  "ave 
of  welve  ounces  of  bread  and  ten  o„  ,!  '  '"'''  ^''"^  "  ''''"0=' 
■u  March  to  cross  the  straits  s„  ,?  '  "'  """»'  '"■■  ten  dnys 
"  our  fate  is  the  worst,  I  do  not  2k"  '"" T""'  "'""«-« 
nam^  of  Americans  and  of  soldTers'  "  ''"'"  <"^S™^-  the 

upon  1  fero,!ncei'lf  !;H,"^„;''„tr  """  "^P-u-Jius  largely 
lurge  as  millet  seeds,  or    "  "mill  t  T^'f'"  '"  "'''  """"t  as 

-:-o  till  a  gill  measurrtte'r /---;— 

..nd^stf r  ^hrr-r /.r-t™  "'^  -  "^  -p- 

«bom  Lockwood  wrote-  «He  t^  ^ brist.ansen,  concerning 
«reat  affection  for  him.  '  IiUhZ^T",  "T,"'  ''""'  '  '"'»  ^ 
"oe,  and  never  spared  himself  on  n„v    •   >  "  ''"  ""^  ^''"- 

'uakes  me  feel  very  sorrow!^,  -         '  """'«'  *"P-    "'«  death 


423 


liked  and 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH   POLE; 


to  cape  iX'l.^r Ct.^: tr  n  ''^'""•""'-  ""  ""'  "U' 
culliug  the  u,otto  ;f  Kentu'kv  "t    le  '""^P'-^y.     ,(,.. 

■      fail,"  he  pathetically  reiterat «!  it^s  n       I    '""''  "'""*'"  ""^ 
meat  oceasionali,  beeame  nel!^!"/;  "'"'P'""'  "■"'  "'-""^^^-^ 

lowiai.  t..iM.e:°Ser.r,:.':r :  ~;rt':;""- 
«ru:rrerSp„r]r;;r'''r 

and  retiring  natnfe.  he  UidTt':!  '  1  r:;;/';."'?;'-' 
personal  qiialitios  iiiviri^ihi,^  ^^t^uus  quicJJy,  but  his 

f".n,  an  .-lliou^el::,  ; ''^,r,r:::';'^l,  ■'fP-^-  «l"w  te 
to  the  a,..o„,p,ish„,ent  of  is  nC  !"?;" '^ '''''''■*'*^ 
tie»,  and  not  to  g„„d  fortune,  mu  be  aU,4l  u  •'"'■'"  '"""'■ 
<es«e,.  He  always  did  m  best,  a  ,d  tt  t,  1  '  ■"''"'■'•'"'" 
na„,e  in  Aretie  history  as  long  as  .o  I  ^Lse  1,  ?'"  "  " 
snecess  shall  seen,  worthy  of  n.an's  praist:;:*^,  ^     T:;  """ 

A-  few  hours  later  on  the  M-nnn  .i^^r  it-  ,    '"""''*"• 

Frederic^  on  a  trip  to  B:^tl:t^ ^^ij;^!^;^^^^ 
visions,  became  exhausted,  and,  despite  "f'V^"^^"^^^.^  ^>f  Pro- 
Frederick,  who  took  fron/hirown  h  ll  '"'"  "^^"'^^  "^ 

with  which  to  wrap  poor  m!2  i^^^an^.Un  ^ 'r  T  ^"'^^'^ 
on  the  sled«e  hokling  and  endeavor  nJiL  '^'"'^  "^^^^^'^« 

man,  he  died  at  a  ^^larte^'^^^^      Xht'^^^^'f '^""^ 
deared  himself  to  his  comrades  nnd    „  ^  '"^  ^^'^  ^«- 

«aeep.nonr„ingan.ongrra%y^^ 

-^"^^^'^^^^^^^^^ 

arge  physically,  he  had  done  extraor  itl;  in  ""f  "'" 
b.s  meteorological  observations  le^aZJ^J  ^''J^'  """' 
conscientiously  made.  always  efficiently  and 

Abont  this  time  Lonir  and  Tono  i,!n  j 

n„  and  Jens  killed  a  young  bear  weigh- 


a  the  trip 
filing  for 
f'ly.  Kc- 
^'ided  We 
courage- 

I  rapidly 

Ij',  Willi- 

'utenuut 
the  fol- 

:  officer, 
esH,  aud 
niode.st 
but  liis 
■^low  to 
nergies 
'  quali- 
^at  sue- 
'  bini  a 
ce,  and 

Q." 

It  witli 
of  pro- 
orts  of 
jaoJfet 
deeves 
failing 
ad  en- 
death 
mbers 

enant 
1    not 

:,  and 

''  and 

'eigb- 


OR,    LIFE   ,N   THE   OBBAT    WHITE    WORLa 

ue  with  Long.  His  bifj  l.^n  ,?,in2;i  ''''''  ''""•'■''«  ""  *''« 
f"  have  gr,.at  afTeeti,,^  fo  ,i  "  ,  rt"?.""'"'"""""' "" 
liunting  witi,  Long,  the  ice  h  l.„  ■  T  *■'■  ""■'"<'""  »'"••' 
t"  »ea  oa  a  detaclT;,!  floe  I  '  th^  ,"'"''  "'""  «""'■"  ""' 
ret..™  to  fast  ice,  tbe  l„e.- 1  f  ."l  V'"^'''  '"«'"«  J-'^  to 
paddled  out  tohi^,  myfnl  "Zny  "'""""  '"  ""  "''  '""' 
iy,  both  were  drifted  aZe  *"     "^ *-'"'  *"""    P"««xate. 

aetive;Z*heTi„Trt:  J^ '""''  *'"'*  "''='"«' »  »'->«. 
»uccumb  to  .tarvathm  l(a  1'  I  "  ,'T'*""  "'  "'^  ^■'''^''  ^ 
server  and  Aeld-man, In'ted  ont?".]';''  "'*'"  ""  "'""-■'t  ob- 
«.■  faithful  fellow,  on  the  2C  '  "'"'  ^^■'™'"'  "■"'"'• 

«ate  in  the  BcientSrt  wa,  ^f  'i  "'''"' """  """'P'"'  »>"«- 
comrades.  I„  following  his  cttomf  *",•  """-'  ""' '"  »''»' 
vice  at  the  death  of  each  man  I ,.  '■"*"'"'«  ""^  "»"'"  «er- 
"<  Israel,  who  w.s  a  Jet  luted  e""'  """-'"'  '"  '"<-  '^^»«'' 
bedistastefult„hispe„;re:  iTsni  e,f7  ""p'™  ""''=''  ^"""^ 
I.e  had  borne  the  hard  struggHl'  ,  r'' m  '"''" '"'''''""'' 

S..m.„er  opened  with  a  how  i  "^.f  '„7"f . 
unless  relief  came  speedily  the  rema  „in I  f  V'"^'  ™""'' "'"' 
pass  away.  Lieutenant  ICislilbm  '  "*"  T*'^"  """"  >"""> 
"flicer,  who  had  exerted  hirelfm^'  V  """"''  '"""•"orking 
treat  and  at  Sabine,  died  o^t  e  H/f  ,'''  """"'«  "'"  "'«"  ■•- 
approached  he  sang  the  doxol"g/:,     .„,';;"•,  ^^  "^  »""  -<' 

™  S'-  ""-'•  --"^  ■-.  -« t'  ::x::;nd  died 
..otfd"  privrCr^tttgr  «"•  ^"* '"  "'^  '^  -  -  ^ 

food  belonging  to  otSr,  InT^^'r  "T"",*""'"  <"'"'«''*  ^'«"i»g 
-eformation,  was  shot  Is  the  onf'^"^  *°  '''"P  "'«  P''"""^'"'  «* 
--^"^-hanceforiife.  ^^irrror^'^^f -' l^ 

7 "•     T>  ivujjj^ 


Uttk'.'M'W         ' 


424 


THE   SE>\  iCH  FOR  THE  NORTH   POLE; 


ivc  hourn  of  Ins  oxec    fion  Bender  and  Dr.  Pavy  passed  quietly 
bi^yond.     Bender  wa    an  indush'iouH,  in,.eni<.us  man  and  had 
done  good  service  butli  at  Conj,^>r  and  at  Sabine.     I)r   i^vv 
despite  his  serious  deiVvts  of  mood  and  earlier  "Bohemian  life  "' 
tonding  to  mar  the  harmony  of  thc«  party,  had  shown  restless 

expert':  "'     ""'  ''"'''  '"''  "'  ""  "'^^"^'^^  ^°^  ^  ^^^^^^ 
Nearly  a  week  later,  on  the  12th,  Gardiner,  who  appeared 
to  have  lived  for  the  previous  two  months  mainly  iy      j 
power,  died  of  inlUimmation  of  the  bowels  and  starvation     As 
the  end  approached  l>e  held  in  his  hands  an  ambrotype  of  his 

7v!  r\r'^''"'  ""^  "*  *^"  ""''y  '"«*  exclaimed,  "Mother- 
wife.      He  was  a  youn^^  „,an  of  excellent  habits,  fine  mind 
and  ambitious  appli,  ation,  and  was  beloved  by  his  compani<u.s' 
Of  deep  reli«:ious  principles,  he  had  denied  himself  to  take  with' 
liim  (.n  {he retreat  his  Bible. 

To  such  an  extremity  were  flie  party  now  reduced  that  on 
the  next  day  Lieutenant  Greely  wasoblij-ed  to  issue  to  the  sur- 
vivors  his  own  sealskin  jacket  and  the  dirty,  oil-tanned  cover- 
ing  to  his  sleeping-bag  as  food. 

On  the  18th,  Schneider,  who  had  rendered  good  services  as 
clerk  and  in  training  the  puppies  born  at  Conger,  thereby  con- 
tribu  ing  largely  toward  the  success  of  the  geographical  work 
joined  the  invisible  host.     Meanwhile,         *'     ^     ^    tai  work, 

EFFORTS    AT    RESCUE 

were  being  mAde.     The  "Bear"  and  the  "Thetis,"  the  best  ves 
sels  in  the  Scotch  whaling-fleet,  had  been  purchased  bv  thV 
government  and  the  gracious  Queen  of  England  havin.^  also 
presented  to  the  government  the  "Alert,"  the  flag-ship  of  Sares 
these  were  placed  in  charge  of  Commander  W.  S  Schlev  U  s' 
N.,  and  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of  Disco  about  the  middle' o^ 
Ma.^1884.     On  board  the  "Thetis"  were  Engineer  Melville  and 
the  Chinese  steward,  Tong  Sing,  of  the  "Jeannette"  partv      \t 
Disco  Commander  Schley  and  Mr.  Melville  paid  their  reVnects 
to  the  accommodating  Inspector  Andersen  and  Governor  Pet- 
ersen.   Here,  too,  Melville  met  his  old  ship-mate,  Hans  Chris- 


OR.    LIFE   m   THE   GREAT    WHITE   WOULD.  ^ 

tian,  of  the  Kane.  Haves   FlnH  „,.  i  x- 
"ill  b..  ,.e«,ll,.d,  had  b.:;^  "     ,Cd  ^,?  'T'T""''  ""»'  " 

fu.i.«,„«.„  ..hiu,r..„,  b:;ith  c ; ;  p„ :;:,  i': '""■  r,-*:™' 

lloe,  aud  his  ,„„th<.r  wei ad.  '  ""  """  '"-'*• 

Tliroiigh  the  ice  of  Melville's  and  r„ik„.   i 
>vas  ha.l  with  the  Seotelf  w    nir! ,  ''"^"  "  ^'""''y  ■'''<■«' 

.v«a,.d  „t  W,«00  «feeV;'tn' l"rr*'''''" '"  '"'"  '"" 
tenant  Oreelv's  party  ^"Hfcress  for  the  rescue  of  Lieu- 

ut^rfsiirxr^iZ :^^^^^^^^    "«-"'  ---"^^ 

party,  tliev  directerl  thJ^^'  ^        ^""^  ^""^^^  '^^  the  Greely 

discovered  various  mn«l  •  ,  "^^  island,  in. a  cairn,  were 
Ueutenant  L^:^.^  ":^::;^^^  ^f  « -cord  left  by 
••a»ip  four  and  a  half  mUes  vvt.  f  n  ^""'^^  ^'"^  ^«°^  "^^to 
way  between  tharDoin  In^  n  ,  ^^  '^"^•""'  "^  ^^'^"t  mid- 
men,  all  well'       ^        '"^  ^^'^"^  ^^'-^^  I«^^»"^-    Twenty.five 

WITH   A    CHEER 

K'lle  was  raging  at  the  timJ  .1,  T",,  ^'""""g''  «  terrific 
;.a<l  been  heLd^;^^  ^v^  r^-'J!  -•'■f/''-  «'  the  "Thetis" 
between  hope  and  desDair  l„It  h.  ?    '''^'  "'"'  ""^^  "'<'■•<' 

When  the  searchers  rVpol^em  "","''?  "''"'  "  ""^''  »"*' 
'■esting  on  hands  and  kneTan,  n2-  ^'T""""*  "'''""■V  ^»» 
to  the  su„,mer  tent,  and Xn  aXd "m  "^^  ""  *"*"'"« 
"Ves-seven  of  us   eft    hT  ''  '^'"'■^^  *''<''•«''  "-?"«!: 

What  I  can.e  to    o-b^?X  h'  r*^^'"^-'"'^  "'^"-    »"• 

•«e.viiie, Lieutenant o^: I  ti.d":;";::;; '" '""""'' *"■■ 

one  of  the  "Jeannette"  nenni.  t     ,"","""*  '"'  "as  glad  to  see 

..'tbehist„r,oft,r::.,s:;:r,r:;;;;;^;.«-^^ 

EIi.on,  whose  ands  Z"ZT  "''  '"'"•"'*' '"  «<-'«<""" 
shook  the  poor  fetwbv  a  irr ""«"'"'■•  ^s  Melville 
onhe  otHee^rs  froJtTe  1-17.^'-^;  ^^  ZZ 


426 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORl^   POLE; 


You  must  have  had  a  terrible  timp  "    Ti.of 

of  a  true  hero,  '      ^^""^  ^"«  *^^  sympathy 

Higher  on  the  beach  ten  bodies  were  hiii.i..,j  i„ 
.Me...,.a..,<  a„„  «.„...  irroeovo,..,..  „„,.  „.at  .,f  j!.™  !„"  ^ 

ually  ,....st„,.e,I.     B,.i,„,  „f  ,^  „,,,,v  ..i«,K.»    ,  „    ,  '  ,        /':'"■ 
fewdays  at«r-  "WpII   h,*,.,   s^  "'"'">  "e  remarked  u 

The  survivors.  Lieutenant  (Jreelv  Km-o-^nnf  n     • 
pora.  Elison,  a.u.  Private.  Biederb  1      1"' 1      '.'",'""''  ''"■•■ 
Lo,„,  ana  eleven  e«rp„e»  having  been'.ak  "aboa   i  IT"''  ','"'! 
vessels  started  „„  the  l.onieward  yJZ     Fli,  n  r    '",       "' 
a  second  amputation.  „n  the  8th  ofj'.i^fa,  niT  '""'  "'"■"« 
Ou  the2d  of  AuKust,  a  most  beautiful  day,  the  "Thetis  " 
Beaiv"  and  "Ale,-,"  entered  the  harbor  „f  Poi^n    uth  N    ', 
Ue  shores  were  lin,.l  with  people,  and  the  harbo    w h  «„   j 
w  th  steau,ers,  saiLboats  and  small  eraft  of  everv  del    „,    , 
al    appropriately  dressed  with  flags  and  streanfers  ' 

relief  vessels  parsed  the  ships  of  war  thecTewsT-f  Ihe  l.t 
swarmed  in  the  rigging  au.l  gave  them  ""'"' 

CHEER    UPON    CHEER, 

and  as  the  anchor  was  cast,  tlie  band  on  the  flag-shin  olived 
"Home  Ag..,,"  and  again  the  harbor  and  enelosfng  h.''f,:' 
sounded  w,th  cheer  after  cheer.  At  the  instant  the  "1^^', is- 
came  to  rest  Mrs.  Oreely  went  aboanl.  au.l  there    n  the  m,  et 

ttrL?:  ™''"'' ''' """' ''''""'' '"  -  "-ba:d"  im,r;::: 

Of  the  dead,  the  remains  of  those  brought  back  were  buried 
.a  the  various  States  to  which  they  belonged.     Ueulnant  kL 


I 


OR.   u™  ,N  THE   GREAT   wmTE   WORLD.  „ 

liiiffbiiry  rostH  at  l{o,.i„.„t„-  «  v 
'"'  '!'<■  I.i-a„(iful  c(.„ieti...v  ot'th,'.  N,'.'    ?  .  f''<'"t"nant  Uckwood 

«t.  Am,,.,  „,„.,.„  ,„.,;,  t.a      :r  T  """  "■'""  ""^^  ^•''"'•^"  "' 

o-""-  ..■«■■»  a,„.  six  .„!,a  0 ';:'";;  r;:,!'.  "■■■  t  ""'  ""'■ 

I'luci.  a,ail«.,l  bv  a  l„i„l,  .„„„.,.  .i.',    •  '^  '"  '''''  restiug- 

^■■■OH^MI  ,•„  .lM.„it..„a  „,     '      .' T""'^-  '""'■■•"«-'.  I'-t  «  tablet 

lieu:  "iuisla.,1,  beait,  tbe  f„ll„„iujj  iuserip. 

In  Memorlam 

Plr«f  ./"^.^^^    "•    LOCKWOOD. 
First  Lieutenant  Twenty-Third  infantry 
A  Member  of  the 

Died  Tn^   ^°"''"  E'^P^dltJon, 
Died  at  Cape  Sabine.  Orlnnell  Land 
April  9,  1884.  ' 


m 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  TH£J  NORrH  POLE; 


I 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

NANSEN'S  FIRST  TRIUMPH  AS  AN  EXPLORER.-UFE  AND 
CUSTOMS  OF  THE  ESKIMOS. 

Of  all  undertakings  in  tlie  great  wliite  world  tI,o  «„  *  • 
ney  across  Greenland  by  tUe^ntrepid  Llndinlvian  I,'"",";- 
Nansen,  scl.olar  and  explorer,  seems   the   ™„st  "„  '  ,     '     i 
prompts  our  Uearty  admiration.  ™''    ""'' 

Ever  since  the  investigations  of  the  learne.i  n,  ,,i  ,       . 
tist,  writer  and  missionary  among  the  EsUin^o;  „f  C'^r 
Greenland,  during  the  middle  portfon  of  the  presl/,    ?""' 
the  great  inland  ice,  or  ice-cap  of  Gree,,l,„?i   ,  ™*'"'^' 

interest  of  the  scientific  worW  *^'^"™"""''  ""«  ««ted  the 

tees'^of  T-"*"  *"  f ""'  "'  °'-  ^'•'^'  "^  «""  """ng  the  devo 

ry:"S- r  tt^^:ited"^t^^•^  "-*-  -  "i;: 

With  Mr.  Maigafrd,  a  Danisl  S  of't  th ';i^;enl,;7':i,"; 
wise  journeyed  with  sledge  and  snow-shoe  into  the  .nt'e  '  ' 
Gr^nZd^  ""'""""^  "' ^'-  ^^"^'^  ■o-goontinu^  'C  •'„ 

of  tfTeeVff  «,!'""'  *":■  °'"-  '''"''''"  ''*«''"  ■""  investigations 
of  the  ce  off  the  opposite,  or  east,  coast  of  Greenland.    Return. 

land  f  "'  "T''  ""  '""''^  P""^"'" "  P'"-  to  "'"^^  South  Oe. 

gom'niil   ,::;f'"'  f  !  '""""'■■"    "■"•'"«  appealed  to  M„. 
goveinment  for  tlje  modest  sum  of  |1,331  with  which  to  defray 


I 


thee 
jecte 
and  ! 
Dane 
Ir 
to  rel 
heart 

besid( 

defraj 

ackno 

as  wel 

Tu 

we  the 

(Iriftin 

t'ountr 

I^apps, 

iiiililvfi( 

"Jason, 

taken  t 

is  soon 

and,  lal 

Now 

that  th( 

«iderabJ 

.young  I 

^'iit  from 

^^apland 

"Jont,  wl 

Ontl 

latitude 

rhirtyan 

Tend 

to  meet  i 
nioro  grej 


! 


S 


the  expenses  of  the  uii<leiiaki>.,v  ti 

jeeted.    His  mad  perseverant'   h  """''  ""^  P«""^'^  ■•e- 

aud  benefactor  i«  the  pZnlf  M    7"'  '"■""«"*  ''""  "  W«'d 
Dane,  who  became  hisTard:    b  dfe"'"*  """""'  "  -™'^"y 

In  Nausen'8  narrative  .»f  h.     • 
to  relate,  Le  does  not  fanrpaTju^Srf  ^^'^  ^^  ^bout 
lieartily  thanks  also  the  "^^  ^^  ^^«  friend.     He 

"COMMITTEE   OF   STITDENTS'   UNION " 

besides  a  lar^e  liinr.hor  ..#  i  • 

..efray  ...eex^eZ'^rth"  e"^;:;"":^'"?  'T  ^""'■■""--  to 
acknowledge  gratefully  official  coTrt^i^,"'  ""  "'^Slectto 
..swell  as  the  self-deujing  artsof  thin  "''"''''  '"^«'<'«-«'. 

Turning  now  to  the  ice^off  he  Lutl  e^t  '"•™"'I«'»^''''8  Wn. 
«-e  there  see,  on  the  17th  of  July  iggs  !       T'' "'  ^''''''-land, 
.IHfting  so,.,hward  with  the  T^'e     The    ^'^    ^."'"P""-"  <" '"™ 
eountrymen,  Sverdrup,  Dietrichs;n   KrL"*'       '  ^'''"''■"'  '''^ 
l-apps,  Kavna  and  Bait ,.    They  rre-.t.t    •""■"'  '""^  "^^  '«"> 
".ilikflord,  endeavoring  to  t^il t,.^  ,         "'""  ""'''^"  '■■»■»  ««^r. 
"Jason,"  Captain  J.^^Zf^XtTu  J'"  "■""'"»  ^--l 
t..ken  then,  as  near  the  coast  as  tief        n  '""  '"'"^'-  "^'""g 
is  soon  lost  to  yiew  asX  f„.^s  ^o       ,"'!    '''™*-    '^''^  «'"? 
..ud  later,  to  direct  her  cLrLmerrd"'^'  ^"""*''  «™-"' 

slderable  rain  fel,  npon  t, fen.  Tr 'l  °"  '""  '"*"  ■••  '•""■ 
.vonngBalto-began  top,  ™t,,  "  ^P^-oM  Ravna  and 
H..tfrom  that  .,f  ^ar^nlfo   tl"    "'f"/""'""™-  then  so  differ- 

'-apland  forests.  Rartrje''.r  '''''*  '"  *"'  """"''''' 
-■nt,  w,„>  ,„„„,  „./;:r„';->f, -0  '-.n  his  New  Testa- 

'hntjand  thirty-fly; mile,  "onf i         T""  ""''"""  ""t""™ 
-«  ..a.s  later  a  la'rC^-^rX;:,'.'  "rery'-r  ^ 

GREATLY   SURPRISED 

<^o  meet  two  vniiurr  ir-.,!  • 

i»v(i  >()inin  Eskimos    n  tlioii'  i-vni-o     m 

"I'M,    j4n-ailv  HiiM>..;^,r.,T  <-.,      1  •  J  .i«  , 


111 


■2B 


»-at]j-  surprised  to  obser 


ve  them  w 


wpre  still 
earing-  gannonts  in 


430 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


part  at  least  of  European  manufacture.    One  of  them  wore  a 

jacket  of  blue  cotton  stuff  spotted  with  white,  and  a  low 

crowned,  broad  and  Hat-rimmed  hat  formed  by  means  of  -i 

wooden  ring  covered  with  blue  cotton  stuff,  the  crown  beino 

marked  w.th  a  large  red  cross.     The  two  youths  were  members 

of  a  large  se  t  ement  who  were  living  in  their  summer  tents  or 

tu-picks,  of  dried  seal-skins,  at  this  point  of  Kioge  Bav     Thev 

were  very  hospitable  and  assisted  the  Europeans  in  carrv^  • 

ashore  their  effects.     Upon  visiting  their  tents  Dr.  Nansen  w.s 

tendered  the  usual  Eskimo  greeting,  namely,  that  of  rubb  n. 

noses.    An  old  woman  showed  him  a  bit  of  " 


DUTCH    SCREW    TOBACCO, 

vvOiile  a  man  displayed  a  knife  having  a  long  handle  of  bone 
These  articles  were  doubtless  obtained  in  barter  from  the  Dan 
ish-Eskimo  settlements  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Farewell 

At  once  Dr.  Nansen  began  to  transport  his  supplies  up  the 
coast-slope  to  the  edge  of  the  great  inland  ice,  reaching,  on  the 
10th  of  August,  his  last  encampment  on  the  east  coast 

A  week  later  the  courageous  men  were  fairly  under  wav 
on  the  gre.at  white  wilderness,  which  stretched  out  before  them 
in  one  unbroken  sheet  of  whiteness  to  Godthaab,  on  (he  west 
coast. 

During  halts  for  rest  the  men  sheltered  themselves  with- 
in a  tent,  where  they  read  the  few  scientific  books  carried  with 
them,  told  stories,  and  wrote  in  their  diaries.  The  Lapps  cravP 
assiduous  attention  to  the  New  Testament  and  to  their  journals 

follows!"  '''''"  '''"*'  """"'"'"'^  ^'^  ^''"°'^'  "^  ^^^^  P"'  ^^^°^''«« 

Breakfast-Chocolate  made  with  melted  snow  or  tea  bis- 
cuit, hver  pat(^,  pemmican.  ' 

Dinner-Lemonade  poured  over  some  snow,  oat-meal  bis- 
cuit, liver,  pemmican.  "'^ 

Afternoon  lunch-Biscuit,  liver,  pemmican. 
Supper-Pea,  bean  or  lentil  soup,  biscuit,  pemmican.  Each 
man  was  allowed  one-half  pound  of  butter  a  week 

The  use  of  spirituous  liquors  and  of  chewing  tobacco  was 


OR, 


LIFE    IN   THE  .GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


431 


occasional  pipe.  especially  the  Lapps— an 

"I  am  an  old  Lapp,  and 

"A    SILLY   OLD   POOL 

t"  then,  f..o,u  the  uo.u^P  .«  ^'    .  ""Tw!'' H  '"«  "*'"°'^ 
()"  tl>;  iiex-fU  V  .,.:,'  '■'■ '"'""«  ""•  "i^'t  '•""St- 

an., t...  favo;^  :io';;'.';:Si.;ru.e''''"  -'  "-■  ''-™-'''-''^ . 

SLEDGES  WITH  SAILS. 

To  tho  advance  sledge  Dr.  Xanspn  nn,i  v..-  *■ 
ues.se.l  themselves   whih"  «,., ,  i  .        I^nstiansen  har- 

«p..a„«  forward,  s^.o";  ,',:',  I™:  "7"'" ;'""  >>'<' x^''0.>' 
Xan.se„  and  K;istia„sen.t.M,.;t;':i;: '''"'"  '"""  '■^■•■ 

■MKl  was  left  far  behind      V      ,'  """"  ''''''""''^  '"«  '"'I'l 

.-n.  for,  his  I    ;  ;    .:;„i.'^;'*   '"^  ""fortunate  was  ,.r.  Na„. 

'M.iftofharden,.;s„ro;eH,ewrT.'  "7'''  "'''■'""«  '"  •-• 
i-"«ers.    Moreover.  a„  a.on,  ^s  wi":,  "ZZ  i;' t.^^ 


432 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


articles,  notably  tlio  tins  of  proeions  ponnnican,  wliiVh  had  b^Mi 
shaken  from  their  unstable  position.  These,  Dr.  Nausen  and 
Kristianseu  were  pickiuo'  „p  and  carrying  along  in  pursuii 
of  the  sledge  when  they  were  overtaken  by  the  rear  sledgv, 
likewise  rigged  but  more  fortunately  managed,  by  Dietrichsvii 
and  the  two  Lapps.  They,  too,  however,  had  lost  from  tlieir 
sledge  some  of  the  pemmican,  thus  necessitating  a  delay  while 
it  was  being  restored.  Meanwhile  Sverdrup  had  discovered 
the  absence  of  his  passengers  and  brought  his  craft  to  a  stand- 
still, and  awaited  their  arrival  with  the  rear  sledge. 

Experience  soon  maintained  control  of  these  strange  affairs 
and  fine  sailing  was  accordingly  met  with. 

Suddenly,  on  the  19th,  Balto,  looking  ahead,  shouted  to  Die- 
trichsen, 

"I    CAN    SEE    LAND!" 

It  was  indeed  land,  and  at  the  next  meal  their  arrival  within 
view  of  it  was  "celebrated  with  the  best  they  had,"  viz.,  jam, 
American  biscuits,  and  butter.  They  had  likewise  celebrated' 
their  start  upon  the  journey  on  the  east  coast  and  their  arrival 
at  the  highest  elevation  of  the  ice  cap. 

Two  days  later  they  enjoyed  from  the  west  coast  copious 
<lraughts  of  water.  "It  tasted,"  writes  Balto,  "just  like  fresh, 
sweet  milk,  for  we  had  not  had  any  water  for  a  whole  month." 

Having  now  arrived  upon  the  west  coast,  it  was  necessary 
to  construct  a  boat  in  order  to  proceed  to  Godthaab.  This  was 
accomplished  by  using  pieces  of  bamboo,  ski-material,  the  can- 
vas composing  the  tent-flooring,  and  small  willows  found  grow- 
ing near  the  water.  On  the  29th  this  odd  craft  was  launched 
upon  Am-er-al-ik-fi-ord. 

Ilere  they  were  annoyed  by  black  flies  as  they  had  been  h.v 
moscpiitoes  on  the  east  coast. 

October  8d  found  them  in  the  hospitable  settlement  of  (Jodt- 
haab,  to  whose  inhabitants  their  sudden  ai)pearance  seemed 
little  short  of  a  miracle.  Upon  Dr.  Nansen's  informiuf^  the 
officials  who  he  was,  one  of  them,  a  Mr,  Baumann,  exclaimed: 
"Oh,  allow  me  to  congratulate  you  on  taking  your  doctor's 
<legree!" 


The  Author. 

Mr.  Bridgman. 

Professor  Chamberlin-s  "View"  of  a  Greenland  Glacier,  with 

Terminal  Moraine. 

(ScoCliMpti.i-  J.  (111(1  XLII.) 


Glacier  and  Lateral  Moraine. 

(See  Cliaptcrsl.  and  XLII.) 


OR.    LIFE    m    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  433 

This  was  tlio  tivHt  iiitolligenco  m-eivori  hv  at 
i'ad  been  tliun  lunum^l  in  IiTh  absen  -01       ^I  ^*'°''°  ^^'""^  ^^ 
title  of  scliolarsliip.  ''  ^^"'"  '^"^"^^  ^^^^  a^otlier 

winter  "'""''  '""^•^'  "^''S'^'^l  *'>  ^Pend  the  ensuing 

AT   GODTHAAB. 

that  the  Jmi  r ;;  t^'?;''?."'*'''''"'''"-  "'•"'-■"•.i 

that  „f  tlu.    V    tk.,  ,1       M        f  •"•^■^"""'"''■'•x  i«  «.'<-atl.v  iik,. 
i"t   .vi.ihivans,  altlionuh  iisp<l  '{ nnn  ...;i 

'•cniarksthat  hisWeud  (••int-.r,,  T  i      '^'*'"";"''^''<  "!'■"■'.  "nd 
«.nversed  with  the  Al  i.  .i,^.  ?    '"'  "'  ""'  "■''"""'"  '"mI 

land  Eskimos.  '    ""*'' ""'  '""'""'fc'"^' '"  "'-  «'«■"• 

«.'een.a„duat;::s\rArr ';;,.•  "i;'?;;;''"  -t"  ^•--  '^" 

;-g«age,  legends,  and  c..stonr:;    ,^'"4     L''Z:,   '":  H'" 
lumos  recall  those  of  the  An.e.ioau  ludians  "'"""  ''"■ 

As^tie™e.on,,e^r:;;::;:,:tr;;n,::r '•"•'■'■ 

Concerning  the  use  of  the  kvak   Or  v-,.,         \      *'' 
in  188S,  there  occurred  in  Smi      Se^  j.^nt"  ;^^---/l»^'^ 

of  Which  were  n.ales,  twentv-fou     "s      i^ l^;;;;"""^'  'T' 
ment  of  the  kyalc.  *  ^t^uiting  Hon,  the  employ- 

In  1889  there  were  272  »lpifliu  iko  u  ' 
f..i.r  ocearring  in  kvaks      nd    i?i  "**  """""'  """  ♦»■'•»*■'■ 

2,591„f  which  we.;, ti;s  "'"  "  '*""""""™  "^  •^'•■"- 

:>n.^i!2:\7Z  r;,:e'H.:r""'  """••"™'"'  "•'">  ■^'■'" 

for  their  voyages  ttn  b«  o  e  ve  L'T''''"'  '"^-''^  """""™^' 
"n.l  with  death.  Durin  Al  'e  ;  '  H  """'•*"";""'  '""  «ave« 
n^n;^nkingwiththea,1i;p^;:r;;--^^ 


434 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


"for,"  explains  an  oarJy  missionary,  E-co-de.  "tlio  wI.oTo  nn       . 
oudure  uncleanlinoss  and  will  otL  Jso  aJ^tU^^'^,  '"""'^ 

Dunng  the  sumnior  the  natives  cbanKo  their  -iIxwIp^  f.. 
place  to  plaee  in  search  of  better  hunting  loullitits  ''"^ 

THE   POOD   OF   THE    ESKIMO 

ise««entiallj  meat,  eaten,  for  the  nio.t  p„,t,  raw,  auj  nuah  of 
he  tnne  fozeu.    S«,ueti,nes,  l,„„ever,  it  i„  bole.l  o"    IJ 
m    he  dried  state.    Fermented  meat,  too,  especially  vntl 

shales,  „-,tl,  ,ts  sweetish,  eream  taste,  is  not  to  be  dt,is« 
<'veu  by  white  tuen  ..„j„„r„ia,^  in  the  nm-th  world  ' 

M>H-«k,  the  thick  skin  of  wluiies  and  porpoises,' when  e-iten 
«-.tb  a  la,er  of  blubber  attached,  tastes  „, uel.  like  n°ts    nS 

»;•;.;;;>  ;o"t.il.nte  to  th..  larder  in  times  of  str  i      '°  :  ^r 

an     the  sea-btrds  are  more  sought  for  than  the  eelebra  ed 
Pta  ,„igans---t  be  n.ost  .lelicions  of  land-birds.    The  eyefof  he 
feathered  tnbes  are  eaten  as  choice  morsels,  while  the  r  vi,  .1^ 
furnish  a  very  desirable  variation  to  the  solid  1  e.   nl  i 
.nieats     Furthermore,  this  dietary  Z:;^'^^^:^ 
«.th  the  contents  of  the  reindeer's    stomach-an    ar",n    i 
sa  ic,.  which,  fosetber  with  fermented  milk,  is  offers"  v| 
w,  1,  ldubb<.r  ami  erowberries.     Kot  uncomn'ion  de    erts 
S.SI  of  sea-weeds,  bilberries,  erowberries,  sorrels,  dand.-li 
salads,  and  angelica  stalks  served  in  train  oil 

The  entrails  of  seals  and  the  skins  of  birds'  le-s  when  filled 

foil",  «h<.n  frozen,  a  sort  of  candyrelish.    In  short   there  is 

:;;':.;;  "'Ttr';"- ".■?'"  ""^ '''" »«""  "'-•■■  "-^  ^^^^-^ 

s  do  ;;:,!;?  "  •""^"■''™P'«"1  "-w,  or  raven.    Even 
h.s  dogs  «,i|  „„t  ,,p,„„  ^„  j„^j^  .j^ 

kuows  from  experiment,  having  shot  and  offered  to  his  E^Lil: 


OB,    UFE    IN   THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  ^ 

(logs  several  of  these  hip,u   ,„i„-  i 

tl";  huugr,  dogs,  but  as  qSeklJ    eieZ  T'""'  ""'""'  ''^• 

lia.1  .■.e.-el^  smelled  of  them  '"""  ""  ""^  •'"S" 

iu/:;r:zrtr;Lr;c;rcr  -'  -^  "■  - 

iatroduced  many  benefloial  ehl„    ^    f?      '"'  •"'>"'™-.  have 

auiuseme„t^rt?ef:;;::s^^^^^^^ 
thei^t7i"m:;r^;,::7:'rrr''^''''"" ''"'  """""■«  '<»• 

that  they  stood  abmit     ,!     .  "^  "''°"  *""  """■■'  ""«'«! 

clothes  in  a  ""  y  aXva  ,  f '  '"  '"""'"""•  ''™'"""  'o  the 
lady  aeeordin^y  caused  so?"  ';"™""''"'""''  P"»iti«n.  The 
■■est  for  the  tub     T  '1,^  h  "  ""'"*''"  '"  ""  « 

kind  intention,-  tep,:,C;trr'''  "''™°<'™ta»'"ins  the 
the.  labors  from  th-^^Vnir  e  eir-^dl^r:^'-  '"  "- 

four  or  Ave  times  dat  nT^f""^ '"''''"•" '"''^^  ^"^'^ 
among  them.  The  vo^n^  n^en  '  ''  ''  "'""■'"■'gly  common 
excess  ^    '°^  """"  ""^  "«t  allowed  to  use  it  to 

ti.ertt:rs:;i;':St?ar7hr  T-^'^^^^^  - 

tlie  women  of  the  west  coasl  "  "''"  ""''''  """'"8 

witMn™the  b:,:.r:t,f  pCe^f  "^^-^'^'-^  """'^-  '^  ">  P'aee 
top  of  this  a  ha  pipe  „7lr  tobac'  '"f '"»"  ""'""="^'''  ""I  "" 
half,  allowing  the'm':,  ZTZoXZ  '"  ^"?'''  '"^  "^^ 
ont  the  ashes,  thus  preparing  the  restrfor?!"'™'"""'  """•'■• 
Anmng  the  South  Greenlandc^s  the  use  n?•"?°'•'''*"^"• 
<•arefuIIy  guarded  by  theofflciik  Tl  „  ,  'ntoxicants  is 
company  are  allowed,  how^'^n  ■<,,,' .'■'"'l'''^'^'* ""'''' Danish 

thns  obtained  was  at  flrs  Yen  'in  ""*' !"''"""    "«^  "I'-or 

'ity  had  been  laid  b        h™',  "e;:"''"™]'"  "  """^'™'  I"- 

"«i  a  gerxcrm  and  partnership  drunk 


436 


THE   SEARCH   FOR  THE  NORTH  POL 


.E: 


was  indulged  in.     This  is  no  lonoor  tnlorn.  i      i.    , 

fe  forK„tte„  that  t,„.  Kski ' ^tL  ^  J:r':T 

CHARACTER    AND    SOCIAL   CONDITION 

iuanj  |K>int.s  aiv  worthy  of  onn.lation  by  .noiv  illustrious  rar.s 

(  t  all  (,od's  creatures  he  is  giftc.l  with  the  best  dis.x.sil  ,  n' 

(-od  humor,  peaeeableness  and  evenness  of  ten.pe  " 

J- linn.     No  tenns  of  abuse  and  .nUun.elv  c-s^  .  ,    hh         " 

-th  to  contradict,  ho  words  his  ren.onstranu.  in     11      o       ' 

f.u  (s,  and  M.Idon.  desires  to  reclaim  st<.Ien  ,,r(,,.ertv.     With  M  . 
meekness  of  Luke  he  would  say:  "Give  to  everv  n  ■  n  tl 
etb  of  thee;  and  of  him  that  taketh  awa^    h'to  "  Tn 
not  again."     Happy  being  bel   an<l  yet  Vim^^^^^^  J     /  ^^ 
Oft-times  improvident  of  the  future,  he  is  yet  cut  to  t  Ll.       ' 
when  his  children  die  for  lack  of  food  '  ^''^'''^ 

Socially  he  is  law-abiding  and  a  great  respecter  of  propertv 
rights,  especially  of  ,,ersonal  propertv.     The  cust  m         .   ^" 
rowing  and  lending'^  is  l.K.ked  upon  with  dil  a  ";,,;;;; 
a  loaned  art.<-le  be  lost,  the  borrower  is  not  requi  o 

m.<m.pense;    he  is  supposed  to  have  bec.i  as    a  e  „    V     I 
owner  wouhl  have  been  under  the  same  <-ircum:s        eJ  ^       ' 
He  regains  no  title  to  land,  yet  is  secure  in  the  possesion 
of  h^  immediate  hut-site  and  contiguous  space.       ' 

Hi8  first  social  law  is,  to  help  his  n(Mghbor.     h,  the  ch-.s 

together,  as  the  case  may  be.     With  strangers  he  reco.-niz.s 
the  same  law  and  asks  no  recompense.  ^^'^^uu'  -s 

Regarding  the 

POSITION   OP   THE   ESKIMO   WOMAN, 

the  view  may  not  seem  so  bright.     Primarilv  and  primitiveh 
^-w^  considered  as  chattel  and  might  be  exchanged!  soldl^. 

In  dress  .she  has  ever  been  permitted  to  attire  herself  much 
after  the  style  of  her  liege-lord. 


I 


OR,    Ura    ,N    TIIR    (IREAT    WHITR    WORLD.  43, 

i"-:;:,;i:,r;::;«r«.::;t:.'';.  -- ""-"" "- '"™"-  "- 
- >voH<:::;r:,:xi:;;v:  ::':;r^vr  ■"•■■■  ;"■• 

«itl,  tUe  u,.,.,n,.      1    S  ,     ;       "'"^" '•','■•'""' -"".xl"'  ■<«  an  , ,„ 

"f -lyinK  fro     'the  Kn"        ''"*'"f"'  """  ""'»  > ■" ■■.,•, 

"iun.s  «rc.at  "kill!  '""""™"^'  '""■  »•"■  h«'-lmua  ...ubroul..^ 

Wore  it  not  for  her  miiIfifr»M  ri„+; .      i 
f.'rior  to  liei-  male  in.,«tl,  •      -^'"'""K''  rfKa'M.'d  uh  iu- 

Th,.  bii-tli  of  a  son  i»  hailed  ,vi,i,  „roat  ,,(.li„l,t  hv  i„.,i 
ent.  as  .uUicatlugan  a.l,.ifio„  ..t  ^  ^u.U  :!:^:^lX2r' 

MARRIAGE 

among  the  Eskimos  is  generally  in  the  form  of  a  <.aptnre     ITe 
loves,  proposes,  and  is  invariably  rejected    not  v    I  IT  *  i 
«lio,  too,  may  love.     To  say  "Yes-  w  nld  h,  "'^'"^' 

.;;-^anau.«nHoHs.^;.,.ef:o:;:^,r;;;:;;fr,z 

formal  "capture"  is  xtili  in  ,.„        ■  ""'"'"""K  I'aHn.s.    Tljo 
,.  "1"""     '»  *'fill  m  vogue  in  East  Oreenlin.l     ti.  . 

divorce  is  eorresponilinply  easy     r.,.ne,...ii  V  ""' 

«ife  is  allowable  to  ea^i   ma  ,'.  .aZ    11'  T       ''^  '""  '""' 

Orcenlandbeniavtaketwo   T  e«        1  '  '""'  ''""'*  "' 

of  the  bouseliold '    On  t  e  "■"  '■''"""'"'  ' ''"  '"'"'I 

familv.    r-h   d  i,irt     all     h""'  •''"'"■™  '"•''""•'"«  '"  -"<•" 
c iiv'ssi   1  th„      rr^      '"'"   '•"  ■■'-'"•■"•k"W.v  <-"sv.     For 

p«-d  Of  or,  fro,„\:i:;:, :::!'jx:r  r ""  "'^™'^''  '"^- 


438 


THE  SRARCII  FOR  THR  NORTH  POLE; 


HuHband  aiui  wife  live  vciv  hnnnii.,  * 
.luring  „l,l  „K,..  ■       ""•'  "'«''""•'•-  ""Vmny 

The  l„v,.  (lispla.vcl  by  H„.  pmriiU  l<ny,mU  ih,.ir  ..«■      ■ 
tra  ,,,..1  ,„  ,,„.  „.„.  of  „„.  i ,..„„„!;,  „f  ,1  .:    J    L  k     M  •'■ 

CI'"  I '"l^).AlMnnu(lh,Mv,,lf)  Kes.sl      „,,',1    u''       "■''" 

uab  „lu.  „u.„u,  f«,.  the  lu„ali,.),,.tc  <"""">-^''-'"»«-ali. 

t 

IN    MORALS 

the  Eskimo  is  iiatiiially  honest.     IntercoiirsP  with  T.^ 

....«,  ..owev..,,  «.n„,  ,„  „.«,„  „i„  ,s,;::       .fHr,;? 

■•-"."■.t.     still.  I„.  «„  «...„pul,.,„lv  ,.,..a,.,ls  II,,.         s',': 

rr" '"'  """""■•• '  'irifi-«-„i  „„,.,.  piu.  :;;';'' 

erimKht  lalcrhapp™  „p„„  th,.  .Ma,„,M|uantitv    '"""""^ -"'""'• 
_  Marclo,-  s,.|,1,,m,  happ,.„».     1„  ,,,«.»  „f  |„,;.  „„,,(      ,  . 

L  o.,„,e  wo„l.l  app,.a,.  to  be  of  too  f,,.,|,u.„t  ,„.nnT;„..rT  .' 
attaik  .» tL,.„  n.aile m'vvMy.  It  is  probably  fort.iuate that  Z 
iisp  of  poisons  is  unknown  to  the  race. 

.n  J."*r",'"*'";'"""'  ""■  '"""**'  """'''*"^'  "f  *'"■  '•'»1'1"'<'  women 
<ase»„f  s han.eloss  unn.oralit.v  are  met  with.    This  has  been 

...•eas,one,   by  eontaet  with  .■o„scien,.eless  sailor,  of  E,m,peln 

and  Amer„an  ships.     \\-|,erever  these  .hips  nu.v  touel     W 

■hsease  Inrks  in  f„nl..»t  forn,.     Fron.  on,  !,«-n  Alal.  to     i  I 

n,ore  „.,no,e  North  Greenland  there  n.ay  be  heard  one  ..of. 

o.  8  OO  Of  ajrony.     Ignorant  of  the  oeeasions  of  disease  -ind 

without  „„.di..inal  ren,edie.s,  habit  and  .nst eont Tue 

I  n.r*.'  propaKution.    Well  n,ay  we nir.-,  will  tl,e  ear  of 

^  :  ,:T'  '";""^:*^  """"'  ""^  *"  "'-ti"""  «-I,en  the  work™ 
hoed?         P"-^'''""""*  "'""'"  ""'*'>'<'  «-"  t"  I'^alth  and  hardi- 

Among  the  So„thOreenlandnatives,marriage between  first 


I 


I 


OR.    UFB    IN    THE    ORl^AT    WHITE    WORLD.  439 

coUNiiiM  iH  i> ohihiffil      'I'll. 

;;."-il.^^!,^J^;;::!;,.;;:;;:'X::;^l;;;::•;^ 

111-  ina,ii„l  n.|„li„„  „f  ,1.,.  f,.,„.  |.    1'.     '       ]'"'""  '"""'' 

; -  in  w„i,.„  „,„.  ,„. J:::t:x:::;'C''iT 

'""'■"'■''.  1>I"<';    if  a  ivi.L.w    1,,,       '.";■"""■'  "  "■'!  '■'I'li"i';  if 

•;■""<■'■  "i.i.ii.aiio„  of  „„.  „,„,!,*„';;';;'■  T  "1 !" " 

^;:!m^!■:n:;;::;;::';,:':^^'•"'r''"'-^^ ». 

'n. -".;su  .;!.  ;;:i';',:::'r 

"»<l  liK..rr„i-,.  tl,;.  I„s,.,.  „f  „„.  „„;t    '','''''",'"■  "■'■"'"•'■• 
li""«lia»t|ie,lnT„i-,l„„-,.      «   ,  '  Ai,„(h,.,-  I„,„,  is 

"ml  lauK f,o,„  M„.  (i,.l,l  ""■'■  '"  ""l"i'i"l 

Tia:^t:;:::;.;:::;;::i:^-;::-:;'.-.^.b:.vo,o,^ 

*iie  natni'al   toijoiri-an hers    jiiwl  ti/.f».;n    i       ,  •"«',  ui(\ 

"«.sti.-  >muy  'a,:,  i!>«o„u'i  V  i',: :::::;  '""""■';"""■ 

"sed  by  thorn.  '        ""^'-M'l'ics  have  never  been 

of  five  each.  ^        '^  ^'^  '"  '"^"^^^  finM<^i'-«r<.ups 

In  imisie  his  talent  is  not  laekin^r  and  -ilfLnn   i 


440 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE   NORTH   POLE; 


AN   ESKIMO   NEWdPAPER 

was  estnblished  in  South  Greeuiand,  i«  1881,  by  Dr.  Rink     It 
beai-s  tlie  imposing  title  of  "A-tu-ag-agdliu-t  1 "  or    r', ,.?',   , 
TLing.  .bat.sbo„id.be,.nown.    It  i^  pS'l't  o!.  tb 

Lars  Moller,  a  native  Eskimo,  but  educated  in  CopenLa  -™ 
He  not  only  draws,  but  also  lithographs  bis  own  illustradon 
'<-•  't.     It  is  published  monthly  and  contains  tr\„lil 

iouug  Moller  is  also  something  of  a  taxidermist  and  th, 
writer  recalls  with  pleasure  a  yisit  to  his  sanctu.n  audXi^ 
«lH.p '  ,n  the  autumn  of  1894,  and  was  pleased  to  receiye  from 
1  m,  two  flue  Greeulaud  eagle-skins  ready  for  mount  ug  ," 
given  m  exchange  for  an  American  overcoat. 

IN    RELIGION, 

the  Eskimos  appear  to  believe  that  man  is  endowed  with  two 
souls-one  a  shadow,  the  other  a  breath.    Everyth  n.  s  *" 

;,■;;  As  ,7"- «r"'-"-  --gni»s  both  theC;  a  d't 

s      •    T,  "■  ■  ""'^'  ""  <'«-''«>'S«l  and  broken,  so  may   1  ■ 

s"ul.       he  name  of  a  person  is  also  believed  to  be  distinct  ■    J 

The  hrst  ch.ld  born  aft,.r  the  death  of  a  per.sou  is  ,.,lied  h  ■  ,1  ' 
nan,,  borne  by  the  ,leceased.  Yet,  should  o  of  ,'  I '^  : 
bearing  the  same  name  die,  the  survivor  i,ume.liat ch  ..ssumes 

bet«een  the  sau.e  names,  an,l  that  they  should  not  be  sepa- 

They  ,li,Mke  not  only  to  touch  the  bo.lies,  but  also  to  sneak 

ue°;";rti'; :  r;'"","  •  '"""•"  ■*  '^ "-'  ""■"••«"  ■■.  '"»*-  *«  b 

are  ofh  r  !;  V'".*""'"  ■"'  *'""  *"'""  "W>.'«aohing  death 
tospe  I  'tl^ir  ,  r"'  """""■"'  *'""  """  ^'"'*  "■•'•""'nn.lers  fear 
Ih  '  ;T  '  "'■''™'"'"'-    ^Vhen  a,.ked  imlividuallv  to 

uqiiesting  a  companion  to  answer  for  thum. 


or;  LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD  441 

The  ovei'flowiujr  of  tbis  l-ilo  H  i.      ■  "^  ^^•^'• 

the  eurth.  "  '  '^  ''  '''''^'  ''^'"^^'^  ^^'^  raiij  upon 

't'lei  at    la^  <)i.  (Migaocd  ,n  the  festivities  of  the  dance 

'VI  (icain  the  bodjes  are  etiiei'  cjist  infn  <^i...  . 
"P<.u  a  bare  reek,  or  within  ..si.,  ''^•''  "'  ^'^''''''^ 

with  a  covered  roircrnT.^    /'''"''''""  ""'^  ^''••'^''^^'^^ 

n.a  ":e;rt  ::;n:;;c;;:;i':r^       -  -^  -.^n  of 
«.™  ,„ato.,  with  •r::'„':y':rer;^"'"' "™"  '"■  *-"■""'«■'  -^ 


n««  •■  Muau-  rAssiMo  nTKjLAwuio* 


»«.■«,  *uo.  a,  ini. 


442 


THE   SEARCH   FOR  THE   NORTH    POLE?- 


CHAPTEK   XLli: 

WITH  LIEUTENANT  PEARY.-THE  AUTHOR'S  PLANS  FOR 
POLAR  RESEARCH.-COMRADE  ASTRUP'S  ^P 
TO  MELVILLE  BAY. 
Just  seven  years  after  the  return  nf  h... 
^aC,  !.,.„,„„  Bn,  Expedition  U^eZa    .    L^  "illr-t  sT 
Joliu'.,  Newfcmdlaud,  set  sail  fro.u  New  Y„  -k  vi/h    II 

Mr.  rear,'.s  camp  a  v^ar  later  an,,  e  tot  iltis  n  Wv  „T't  ' 
t.«u  afte,.  a  „,ost  enjoyable  a„,l  s,„.,.es  ,  t  tol  !fTw  T" 
m.;..tl.  just  below  latitu.l..  78°,  i„  ^^,rtlnv«  tenfau  i  rr 
"nlj.  occurrence  to  mar  the  pleasure  of  tlu- fin  I'^s  i  ,?'' 
disappearance  of  Mr.  Verhoeff  on  tbe  ev.  of  H     «     ,       "'"'■" 

Mom  some  fri^v^fm  orevcc.e  of  a  glacier  which  hi  ,T 
tlentlj  attempted  to  cross  alone  ^'^'^  ''''^- 

North  GreenliiKl      t,,.,,    i-         .  ^  inland  ice  caj)  of 

onnof      ''".•^"''-     ^»'«vehn-atan  elevation  of  from  4  000  tn 
.),000  foot,  a  jonrney  of  000  miles  bronoj.t  tl.^n,  I 
bie  opening  on  the  northeast  coa^o?  Gi^  n  11"^^"^"     ''^ 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  44, 

'■"•1°  37'  north,  lonmtiule  34°  west      Ti.ic  5« 

killed  rt.ev::i"";j'r:S;i';f  •".'"""-«-"  »*  ■"-'^-eaWe 
flowers  incL,  r/h        '^'"'<-™J"y'nS  the  sight  „f  countless 

t,    „   "'"'  ?■"■  '"''  ""^y  ''"^"'"S^  »f  ll-e  bu.nblebe;  the  'on'  re 

ro,r«L"^Hera;^^KitX^^ 

lld.tt^Z    "'.  ""'"^  *'"'  '™'''^  ''•'""  Independence  Bay 

.  ser  r„n:c°tu:^s"r" '"  ""r™*'™'  "■  p""  "^^  ™-- «' 

Anniversarvlodl  .    t>  T  T".""  '"  '■™-^'^  ">«  '™'-''  '™"> 

-and,  in  th  J  it  f  Til*  ^  '™  'Ir"':".  ''"'^■'  "'"^^  •^"^™- 
ludependence  Bav  beinr„n  ,    !,'         >''«'g'^-J<>"i'ney  toward 

was  a  member  iUslt?,-         ^''P"""""  """'""g"  the  writer 
this  volume     ShonldTi7"Tn  '"  "•"•"*  "'  ^^""t  '^S*"  '" 

It  was  on  the  6th  of  Mnrnh  ico^      i    •  ,:    .  * 

nmist  of  threatening  ":'•   ,     'the  "f  1  """"■'■  '^  '"  *'"" 

"Oreat  luiand  Ice  Trip."    l";,^  ,     Cr:^Tr;r;  ::"  *'" 
posed  of  eifrhf  n.^^    n^^  1    •      ^  -^     P'"t>  Has  com- 

inents  of  the  North      (  n    i.     ••'""^"-"  ^'J^^""^^  the  fierce  ele- 

Lientenant  P^^  and     s    ;;,r:y'""  '''-  f  ^"^  •''•'''^''  -'-'>^ 
the  village,  ha  ^l^  ^  w"!^''^?"'^^"'!''^  ''^  ^'-  ^^^'--'^  <>f 


ige,  had  gone  with  four  skMlgedoads  to  the 


moral  lie  and 


444 


THE  SEARCH  FOB  THE  NORTH  POLE: 


ha^l  re  urued  to  Anniversary  Lodge  in  the  evening.  A<c„r,l. 
uig  to  the  plan,  the  party  wa.  to  pnsh  forward  a  day's  mar  h 
from  Morame  Camp,  ,vhilo  the  Lieutenant  wonid  comeT  n 
the  morning,  bringing  hot  tea  tor  the  men  in  order  to"av^  tl  ! 
alcohol  to  be  used  as  fuel  for  melting  snow.  1-ursnanrt .  t 
end,  earliest  dawn  «aw  Lieutenant  Peary  with  one  mli   ,.t" 

reinrxrtx;;';^::::  tr,::r' '-"" '-  - "-- 

Baldwin,  Asti'up  and  Eiitrikin  met  tbeVirty  at  the  edoe  cf 
he  camp,  and  although  dosely  wrapped  in   heii'exeellen   fm 
they  had  evidently  felt  the  effeot  of  tL  «.  ..   i  •         .    ,*  "^  *'"«» 
their  ^  searching-  winds  on  this 

FIRST    NIGHT    ON    THE    ICE-CAP 

CO  d  and  the  number  to  be  cared  for.    A  drink  of  hot  te.  h 

— rtiirrerrr--™"- "'  -  ---  '^'" 

After  the  party  had  breakfasted,  hitched  their  don-«  nn,i 

foirkin:.  'z "'  '""^■',''  '''^"'<-"-'  ^iv  »--far 

vLary  lod"  '  "'T'"™'  '"S"!-'"""'  *»™«'<1  back  to  Anni- 
tenant,  I  stopped  to  have  another  look  at  the  caravan  -lud 
the  memory  of  the  scene,  with  the  memory  of  a  »ub.senuen;  mn 
when  further  on,  will  remain  long  with  me.  It  ™srs™blim e 
spectacle  to  see  that  company  of  thirteen  men,  .  d"en  smZ 
and  over  ninety  dogs,  climbing  the  alabaster  slopes  of  the  i-' 
finite  .ce.cap,  their  destination  the  frozen  fastnesses  of  the 
North     Never  before  had  snch  a  sight  been  seen  on  the  grc 

repeted."''  "'™''  '  *'""'^"  "*  ""''"'  '"''""''  ""^  '''""  ^ 

Taking  his  final  departure  from  the  Lodge  on  the  ,Sth,  Lieu- 

tenant  Peary  pushed  forward  to  join  his  men  on  their  perilous 

journey  through  the  frozen  world.    The  snow  igloo  of  the  pre- 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  445 

vuniH  nisht'8  camp  wan  panml  about  two  miles  bev<mU  Pi<.eon 
an.,,  and  about  4:30  p.  m.  he  caught  night  of  the^arty  far  in 
he  distance  wending  their  way  to  the  sunnnit  of  a  sn<»w 
hiJlock.     At  f5  o'clock  the  leader  came  up  to  his  devoted  band 
.]iKst  as  they  had  encamped.     We  will  allow  him  to  describe 
this  camp  in  his  own  words:  "The  western  skv  was  a  blaze  of 
crimson  and  gold,  the  eastern  dark  with  the  purjde  shades  of 
night.     The  camp,  itself,  with  the  numerous  dogs  in  groups  of 
live  and  six;   the  harnesses  and  other  items  of  sledge  equip- 
ment supported  u,.on  tripods  formed  bv  the  ski  (Norwegian 
snow  shoes);   the  sledges  scattered  here  and  there;   the  snow 
Igloo;   Astrup's  little  silk  tent;   the  sleeping  bags  with  their 
tent-like  protections,  and  many  tigures  moving  about  hilher 
and  thither— all  projected  against  the  background  of  the  glow- 
ing west,  combined  t(»  form  a  scene  wliicii  reminds  me^crv 
strongly  of  an  Indian  encampment  on  the  prairie  at  sunset." 

As  this  was  the  spot  on  which  Lee  had  camped  befon-  he 
was  lost  in  the  previous  fall,  a  snow  igloo  which  his  Eskimo 
companions  had  made  was  used  by  Astrup  as  a  cook-house. 
Soon  he  had  prei.ared  the  pea-soup  and  tea  and  the  men  having 
relished  a  cup-full  of  each,  together  with  their  rations  of  pem- 
mican  and  biscuit,  crawled  into  their  sleeping  bags  and 
passed  the  night.  The  heroic  leader  pulled  ou  his  deerskiu 
boots  and  trousers  and  ou  a 

CUSHION   OF   SNOW 

slept  in  the  lee  of  one  of  the  sledges.  Aurora  had  scarcely 
ushered  in  t.ie  new  day  before  Astrup  was  again  preparing  tea 
and  at  10  ()'clo<k  Lieutenant  Peary,  Lee  and  Oo-too-ni-ah  set 
out  for  the  cache,  leaving  the  main  party  to  follow  later.  On 
the  way  Lee  recognized  an  object  in  the  distance  as  the  tent 
from  which  he  had  straye<l  at  tlietinu^  above  alluded  to  He 
was  detailed  to  bring  it  on  his  sledge,  while  the  other  two  held 
on  to  their  way.  They  espied  the  cache  when  yet  two  miles 
away,  and  on  reaching  it  found  that  since  the  precedino-  Octo- 
ber snow  had  drifted  about  it  to  the  depth  of  four  feet  and 
had  also  formed  a  drift  uiK)n  its  top.     Tills  could  be  seen  in 

Air 


446 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


the  distance  w,f  hour  the  assistance  of  the  bamboo  pole  that  had 
been  erected  o  mark  the  spot.  The  Eskin.o  set  about  buildin. 
an  Igloo  and  had  u  completed  by  the  time  the  party  arrived 

No  sooner  had  all  the  dogs  been  cared  for  than  all  the  hus- 
kies (Eskinu)s)  Ix^gan  a  sec(,nd  igloo  in  such  a  position  that  it 
could  be  readily  united  to  the  first.  The  tent  which  Lee  had 
bnmght  up  and  the  little  kitchen  tent  were  placed  in  line  on 
either  side  of  the  igloos.  Owing  to  the  fact  that  most  of  the 
sledges  had  suffered  more  or  less  on  the  moraine  and  thence 
over  rough  hard  sastrugi  (ridges  of  snow),  it  was  necessary  to 
lay  by  at  the  cache  several  days  in  order  that  they  might  be 
repaired  and  that  the  work  of  digging  out  the  cache,  parcelling 
he  sledg(^  loads,  and  bagging  the  pemmican  might  be  attended 
to.     Accordingly  a 

SNOW    FIRE-PLACE, 

if  such  an  anomaly  can  be  imagined,  was  built  in  each  igloo 
one  for  the  alcohol  cooker  and  the  otlier  for  wood,  of  whi«  h 
there  was  quite  a  supply  in  the  shape  of  broken  boxes 

The  first  night  at  this  camp  Dr.  Vincent,  Astrup,  Stokes  and 
bwain  passed  in  the  inner  igloo;  Lee  and  the  Eskimos  took  up 
their  abode  in  the  outer;  Entrikin,  Baldwin,  Clark  and  David- 
son in  their  sleeping  bags,  and  the  Lieutenant,  in  his  sleepino- 
suit,  had  ample  room  on  the  outside.  As  the  wind  playfulfy 
tossed  the  snow,  the  spirits  of  these  hardy  adventurers  rose 
with  their  surroundings  and  "Mary  Green,"  a  favorite  song  at 
the  Lodge,  broke  the  awful  stillness  that  ordinarily  knew  no 
breaking  save  that  of  the  moaning  wind. 

At  this  camp  the  dread  Pib-luck-to,N)r  Greenland  dog  dis- 
ease, a  malady  akin  to  hydrophobia,  began  those 

AWFUL    RAVAGES 

Which  almost  exterminated  tlie  entire  pack.     So  intense  was 

s 'm^rofTl  "t%"^  ?''  P""'  '^''^  ''^^'''^'   «^'«*  f^'"   V»<'^"»  ^<>  the 
M  ourge,  that  he  almost  gnawed  off  his  legs.     March  llth  the 

second  day  at  the  cach^,  was  calm  and  <  h^ai-.     A I  tlie  eaHy 

hour  of  4 :30  a.  m.  Stokes,  Swain  and  the  five  Eskimos  returned 


OR,    LI  I    .    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


447 


to  the  Lodfto.  During  tlie  day  tlio  remainder  of  the  men  pre- 
l)ared  tlie  pemmieau  for  transportation  by  sewing  it  in  bags, 
eacli  of  wliicii  contained  twelve  or  lifteen  eiglit-pound  cans! 
This  being  done,  sledge  loads  were  assigned  and  everything  put 
in  readiness  for  the  journey  on  the  morrow. 


TWO   MEN   DISABLED. 

The  northward  marcli,  as  resumed  on  the  12th,  was  very 
laborious;   still  our  heroes  trudged  on  through  the  <loth-like 
snow;   the  ice-cap  rose  in  one  long  continuous  ascent  before 
them,  the  dogs,  unaccustomed  to  each  other,  were  constantly 
fighting,  and  greatly  hindered  the  progress;  Lee  suffered  from 
a  frozen  toe  and  nothing  but  his  all-conquering  grit  could  Lave 
induced  him  to  undertake  the  day's  journey;    xVstrup  felt  all 
the  symptoms  of  an  attack  of  illness,  such  as  had  driven  him 
from  the  ice-cap  in  the  preceding  September.     On  the  13th, 
hiboring  under  the  disadvantages  of  up-grade,  strong  wind, 
drifting  snow,  and  the  disabled  condition  of  the  two  men,  the 
party,  after  going  only  two  miles,  were  compelled  to  halt. 
Ooing  into  camp,  eight  dogs  that  were  unable  to  stand  the 
rigorous  service  were  killed  and  used  as  food  for  the  others. 
It  was  evident  that  Astrup  and  Lee  must  go  back.     Being 
unfit  to  think  of  making  the  perilous  journev  alone,  the  Lieu- 
tenant himself,  accompanied  by  Clark,  undertook  tlie  task  of 
seeing  them  safely  down  to  the  Lodge. 

All  this  took  some  time.     However,  on  the  22d  of  the  month 
the  i)arty,  now  reduced  to  six  men,  was  again  under  way' 
battling  against  a  furious  wind,  and  stinging  drift,  with  the 
temperature  at  -8r>°F.     After  going  three  miles  the  dogs  ab- 
solutely refused  to  pull  and  it  was  necessarv  to  turn  in      En- 
trikin  and  lialdwin,  with  their  double  sleeping  bag,  took  up 
part  of  the  light  protean  tent,  while  the  alccdiol  cooker  and  Mr 
I  eary  appropriated  the  remainder.     T]w  doctor  in  a  single  bag, 
and  (Mark  and  Davidson,  in  a  second  double  bag,  occupied  th^e' 
litth.  silk  tent.     The  <logs  were  tethered  as  usual,  each  train 
being  divided  into  groups,  with  no  protection  save  the  shao^n' 


U8 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


c-oat  vvitb  Which  nature  had  provided  them.     Night  (.(.nu., 
"IH.ii  the  scene  and  the  fury  increane.s;  the 

GREAT    EQUINOCTIAL    STORM 

i«  at  hand.     This  was  one  of  Lieutenant  Peary's  "Arctic  Hells  " 

';  vl'  "  "'''"''•'"  ''•'^•^-  "•'  '^^'«*'"be.s  it  thus:  "Abou 

:    >       .U.ext  n.ornin,  ,  .as  awakened  by  a  sudden  incva^ 

uj\au:  """'  ^^■''•■''  ""''''  ^''^"^^'  ^'t*^  «"^'''  violeuc 

H ';;';;';;  7'^  '^'^'"  ^'";"  -- 1---^  -»"-t<Hi  with  n. 

11  '""»"  .i":i\  ill  imv  iiiiMiicnt. 
.l.-i'i  l.'ih!''''  V',''';  ="'""'l"""'''l  tl'ix  xtoni.  was  alni„.,(  in- 

..  ]  ,  •  V  ""  ""■■'■  "■"■^''  «-""l'l  I'"™  bfcu  iiiip,  ssil,!,. 

ten  •,,„i  .V  '  ""'  '"■'""'  '  '"'*  ♦"'•"»  in  carmii.-  Ii,it 

w  . ,     t  I ;.  •  """"""""  *'"'  "".V  "n«l  Hie  f.,ll,nvi„s  ,ii„,i(  ,1,; 

PANDEMONIUM    ON    THE    INLAND    ICE 

<ia  uify  ^ere  saielv  in  our  tpnf    Pnfi.n-;..  +  i 

K,,  T  "^  it'ni,  rjurrikin  turned  (»nf  nf  hJu 

bag an.l  ..no  l,is  p,a,,>  n,  flark,  I  t„rno,1  ,„v  .1,.«  k     .,,     , 
♦...iisors  ovo..  to  I.avi,l«,n,  Baldwin  preHont'eil  hi,„  w  ,  ' 

^nrJed  himself  up  on  the  foot  of  the  bi-  bag.     This  h.ft  •,  sn.-.H 
space  betw,.nH.epoleandthetento,;nin:inwM^ 
.•nd  I  could  staiHl.     This  space  was  c<u,stantlv  decreasiuo-  in 
«ize  from  the  drift,  which,  in  spite  of  our  best  efforts,  continued 


(•Seo(h,,,.<.rXLII.;als.,,,„,.,s,,.,H.,,,;.; 


lliil 


Baffin's  Bay  Iceberg. 


4-J     >^i 


M 


j:  u 


XI 


(II 


UK 


SO 


\\( 


sic 


llio 

illK 

for 
fori 


tioi 


Jll'C 

by; 


IS  n 

SIIJ) 
I'('V( 
Cl'lll 


oj 

^ 

*•» 

•■>< 

M 

rt 

11 

^ 

JB 

'^ 

h 

73 

OR.    LIFE    IN  THE    QREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  ,4, 

'\'fur.;'.i,""' '„•'"■""*■"'  '"-  ""''  """■•  '"'■  ••■"■•"■"■'■  "f  '"«■  l-JH- 

•" "  ,""""'"'«  "!'■  »'""'l.vi"K  "...■K,.|v,.s  l,.v  .:„.  ,,„1,,  „„w  u,„| 

>"■"/■".•  ."K  up  o„  tl„.  s„mv.,IHfl  f,„.  „  ,-,.„.  „.i„l< '  „f  .;i,.„p,  r 

;       ';    ','/■"' '""■     ''""  ■""• "«  "'"I  ""PPi"*.'  "f  li- 
nt, t  ..  ,l,.„f,„„„«  ,,„„.  „,  H„.  wi„,l,  t vili.,1,  hiasi,,;  of  ,|„. 

'l"f ,  tU,.    ,„«H„j;  a,„l  s,,.,.,„„ii,!.  „f  ,|„.  ,„„„.  J         ,;„,,^'' 
I" fiiioniiiin  ncvM- 1<,  bo  forKiitlcii. 

UOGS    FROZEN    IN   THE    SNOW 

subs  , Is  .III  I  lit  ,  II.  ,11, 1  iviis  out  IcM.kiii,;  „„„„  „  won,.  Iliiiriiiii.lc 

".",.  by    II,.  l,.«s,  s,„„.  ,,,  t„„  ,„„     ,,„„,  „ ,,  '  -^™; 

«■<■.■('  ,1,.|„  11.1,1  nil  we,.,,  in  ,.  ,„,„,  pUiiibl,.  ,.,„i,|i,i„„,  ,  „ii  ^ 

N.>-,.|;„l  liail  f|.,.o,l  H„.,„»,.,ves  aiiil  h„„  ,|,;.s„.,„,.l,  n  ^  |  ,  b  .i 

s  ,.,.|mi^^  l,a„  an an.v  „f  the  ha,-n,..s»o.s  ttl,i,.|,  i„„  ,,,,.„  blown 

"ft  11.0  (.iim.l.s.     Haldwi.,'.,  a„o,ii„...„to.-,  ba,.„K..,i|,|    ,    ,    bor 
;n.«.'ai  ..  «lii,.|.,  as  „io  ,.o.,iiU  .,f  hi.,  i,.,o...,io.  a'.,.,  t^^. 

f,       I, ,,,  f,„,,.  hour.,  ,1,0  av,.|.a«,.«-i.i,l  v,.|,„i,y  l.n.I  I „  „vor 

•'»   I  ai..-.,  n-.,l.  a  .....im.,...,  „f  „vo|. -,i()"  |.',i|„,     \vii,.|i  ,h,.so 
,,«,.,..»  i,.-o, .....sill,.,.,.,,  i„  ,.,„„„.,M„„  „.i,l.  „..,., .|,.va,i„„  „f  «,„„,. 

K.iou.i  f.i,.,  ,l.a,  .,■,..,,,,,  „.|„,„.,n„„,.„  a „„, ,,,,,  ,„.  ^,.|,„, 

.■o  .....,l,  .,.,,.-,.  ,rvi.,„  ,„  animal  lifo  ,lian  ,l.o  »a.,.,.  „;„i„o,.a. 

.-.-a,s,.,,  lovol,  „  IS  boliov,.,!  ,l,al  ,lio  .iinlv'.i.o..,  ,vil ,|,n, 

I..S  sloMi,  boa,  ,l„.  ,.,.,.,,,,1  a„  III,.  n„,.s,  s,.v,..v  ,.v,..-  oxp,..-i ,.,] 

b.v  an.v  .\.',(.,'  pai',y." 

Tl.,.  n.a...,,..-  a.i,l  |.„ni.o,.,ion  in  wl.i.l.  JI...  Ral,l,vii.'»  i.aii.o 
.s  inon,.,m,.,l,  i„  this  qn„la,i„i,  as  well  as  ,.ls,.«-l.o..,.,  bv  bis 

■■"'I"''''"'  'I"alili,.„i„ns •i,l,.|.,ally  b.i,  no.io  ,l.o  loss  f„.;il,Iv 

■•'■v,.als  ,1.,.  ,|,.p,|,  „f  bis  ol.a.a,„...,    I,  was  ,v,.|l.k..„wn 'v.' 

.■.•.ii..,.,.lal,i,Tl,.s,l.a,„n,.of, hiof .,-,.n„.n,s,l,a,l,.,l  Mi- 

lialuw.u  to  join  tUe  o.xpe,li,iou  was  tbo  oppo,-t..iiitv  for  ti-vin- 


4(0 


THE  SEARCH   TOR  THE   NORTH   POLE; 


•'"' ""  ^"'■y  "'  *'"-  i»«tnm,ontK  ,„„lo..  I,i„  oavo.    W,.||  ,|i, 

;  "i^  ;•';;;;:: ■ ;■"••■ »'-'•'■ <••■  «„i,.„ ;,;,;' ', 

of  „  „..„hV  """""• '"'"  """  ■'"•'■  """""'«  ""•  »-"l 

BURNED   THE    SKIN    FROM    THE    FINOEHS 

nt  ■,,',  ■''"'•■"'';■'''  '"'■"■"'"'J'-  """■"««■  ""•!  -kill,  Ins 

:;, " ;" :;■,•: "'"'«" '"  >"«  visits  t.,  ti,..  .,i,s,.„a,on- 

ini'"™,,!,;:;;,';."  ""•  """"•''  -' '"- "'" •■■■'•  -■^»"  •" « -"- 

w,..,M'!!,."i?.,T"''*'"'  i"  ''■'  '■""•»'  '■'■"""■'«'    "■<-"   »«"•   fair 

« l..it  ha.l  be..,.,  an.l  s,.b..ii(t..,I  a  proble...  foi-  s„l,.ti„„.  Davi.L 
son  s  ..o„.ht,„„  ad..,iM..,l  .,f  „„  ,.„„i,..,  a,„l  i,  was  .l,.,.i.lo,l  to 
«'n.l  l.i,„  back  ...  .-aiv  „f  tli,.  biK.|,..ait,.,l  ,l„.-t,„..  v,„k  al^ 
1.0..KN  not  aff,.<-t..,I  to  th..  e.xt...,t  ,l,at  l.avi.ls,,,,  was,  wo„l,l 
have  „.1,I„  ^„,.atl.v  aKai,.st  liia,  if  he  hazar.le.1  the  tri.,  The 
.•l.a .,....»  wore  that  on  expos.,,.,  his  f,.,.t  woal.l  b,.,o,„e  wo,.s,., 

":,,'."'"  '"•'*■''  »"  '•''''"'■'''1  i"  ■>"">•"■'•  "»-i  eq,il|„„e„t»,  it 

:;""'•'"'  ""I'o«s,ble  to  f,„-„is ,„  with  ,.s,.o,.t  o,.„le,lo,.  later. 

.SI  o„hl  h,.  blave  the  bl„-ni„o:  ,,,|,,  „f  ,|,e  A,-,ti,.  „r  shoal.l  he 
return  to  .•,„„,,a,-„tive  .■o,i,f,„.f?  Mis  ,l,.,.isi„„  ,.vii„,.„  a  .h.t,.,-- 
""nat,o„  well  worth  the  „an„..  \Vh,.„  ask,.,I  what  he  was 
fto.ns  to  ,h,,  he  ,.,.,,|ie,i:  «,„,,  ,  ,,,„.,„  ,  „,,„„  „,,  ,^__  „ 

M..r<.  „„l,.,.,l  we  n,ay  learn  a  lesson  w.irth  r<.,„<.,„berin.-.    (irit 
ot  thrs  t.vpe  will  solve  many  a  eonfr.nitiuf;  pi-„bl,.,„. 
T  he  next  .lay  saw  the  pait.v,  now  ....usistii.!;  „f 

FOUR   MEN   ONLY. 

beaded  toward  the  goal  of  their  ambition.    A  fresh  southeast- 


OR,    LIFE   IN   THE   CHEAT   WHITE   WORLD  m 

Priy  wind  was  l.l.)win„'  ,„„I  ih,.  ll„.riim,nol,.|.  i-,.|ii»i,.,.,.,l  -ny 
I"'' ■J''"''':  ""''|»iM  .MHl  l.;nl.-iki„  su,w,.,l,,l  „,i„,i,„wy  in 

, '  ''"*l"'-"' ■     K"'!,  I,.„n,  ,!,■,.„■  l«o  s!,.,|,„.„,  „  i„,,rer 

;:;;::  "■.";"";■•• »■"""<-■  "<-.«  .i-w,,  i,,  ,„„,  „;,  •,  izz 

"itci  (•iiiM};  si'vciiil  milcn.  ' 

tl,,.',*,',!  ""■  '""r'y  """■ »-'  II"'  «l'irit«  of  11,,.  n„.n  .•,«,.  with 

"■.  •.!  M„.,„  t„  ,,„,,„„,  aft..,-  n„wg  |„„  ||„.,.,.  ,„||„„.     Tl„.  27th 

1;'";;  ';';.,"'■'' ',";',"'" """  '"'■'■'•"  ■'■'"■  • «•'•"""■'■  '-• 

,7'  '  "^■•^'* ''•;;■"'  ""■  i""«i"'<i» f".- ih,. d„,v  w,.,.,. ,.,„.,„„.„«. 

^^i„  /rrT  *""•' '"'"  '"■'"•'■'■' "'" "  «"'"■»  <ii«i^""-  »n™ 

,",""."'" «'■  "I"""!.'  "  ■■""n.T  in  th<.  act  „f  ,.,.„„„i„K  ,„„. 

V.I  ,.,y  |,la,n»an,l  »„„„•.,■  hiih„.|is  „„  f,„.  ,,„,.,,.  ,,„,|,i  «,.,,    The 

ai;; ::;':,:;:'''' •"■>• "'"'""« •'"•'■  »""ik"  =.l.."^'->..,  thn» 

ral^e.^  r:  "'■";"""■  '"  '"'■  '*»  "I""'".  ■i"<l,  "".ninK  a„ai„.,t  a 

.™;.f  ,":"•;■'  ""■"•"■^"'"'  ■'  '■""« ' ■'■ "  -""■^""  th.. 

.lav  ,L    '  ,'"K""nwa.s„„t.,ftl„..,„e»ti..„.    Ab,.a„tif„l 

.'n sl"!l«e>,     ""'■*■"  '"  "'^'  •""■'''"■^'""  '"^'^ <•'  '"™'""K  1"'"1<- 

THE   SNOWY   CURTAIN   ROSE 

H,te"sw!.M'  *)"■  '■"';"'""  ""'""'"  "f  ""'  """'"f  White  VVorhl." 
o  t«l   1,0  Khstonmg  snrfaoo,  i.-..ntly  .■o,.,.,lins<.n  tl„>  l..ft,  ..ra,!. 

C,'':i,?."j  't,"'«"'  ";«"'•-  - i*-"-  ■'"  th..  .ii;;;.nVe 

"v  -a,i..^  auuj,  iiiuy  are  lusl  m  kissing  tlie  sappliire'sky. 


452 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


1  ut  we  Who  are  sitting  beside  Vesta's  cheerful  glow  must 
not  lose  ourselves  in  Elysian  reverie.     The  unrelenting  cold 
urged  Its  cruel  claims,  and  discouragements  crowded  up^n  ^ 
unfortuna  e  heroes.     However,  it  needed  cmly  a  milk  punch  to 
,  revive  their  drooping  spirit,  and  after  the  dogs  had  been  fed 
they  turned  in  to  dream  of  home  and  loved  ones  far  away.    On 
the  morning  of  the  28th  Clark  set  about  overhauling  the  bar- 
ness,  while  Baldwin  and  Entrikin  repaired  their  sledges.    This 
they  did  with  the  thermometer  registering  —51°  Fahr    and 
themselves  exposed  to  a  stiff  breeze  that  drove  the  snow  in 
anything  but  a  pleasant  manner.     For  the  "Long  Serpent"  the 
episode  proved  to  be  a  blessing  incognito.     For  after  beino- 
repaired  she  was  a  better  sledge  than  ever,  but  Entrikin  froze 
his  feet  in  the  operation,  and  this  was  the  beginning  of  the 
serious  trouble  that  followed  him  throughout  the  remainder  of 
the  trip. 

Everything  being  in  readiness,  the  northward  march  was 
resumed,  although.it  was  after  0  p.  m.  In  this  short  journey 
that  followed,  a  singular  incident  occurred,  savs  Lieutenant 
Peary:  "During  this  march  the  wind  and  temperature,  actiu- 
upon  the  moisture  of  Baldwin's  breath,  froze  his  koo-le-tah 
(reindeer  skin  coat)  so  rigid  that  he  could  neither  walk  nor 
turn  his  head,  and  was  obliged  to  come  in<o  camp  ridinn-  on 
his  sledge,  riere  we  were  obliged  to  assist  him  in  moviug^'the 
lee  and  snow,  which  had  almost  completely  closed  the  face 
opening  of  his  koo-le-tah." 

The  bright  clear  morn  following  revealed  a  smooth  sur- 
face over  which  to  trav«d;  the  temperature  had  risen  some  ten 
<logrees,  while  dogs,  sledges,  and  men  were  in  prime  condition 
to  make  a  good  day's  journey.  But  scarcely  had  thev  started 
over  the  inviting  surface,  before  the  jealous  king  of  the  ice- 
cap hurled  his  snowy  legions  upon  them.     At  this  juncture 

ENTRIKIN'S    TEAM    BALKED 

and  in  spite  of  every  effort  on  his  part,  in  spite  of  all  the  assist- 
ance that  Lieutenant  Peary  and  Mr.  Baldwin  could  give  him, 
they  absolutely  refused  to  pull.     Mr.  Entrikin  had  the  misfor- 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  453 

tune  Of  Straining  his  back  and  this,  in  addition  to  his  frozen 
feet,  put  liiin  in  a  position  not  to  be  envied.  (Jo  on  they  could 
not;  the  onl^-  alternative  was  to  encamp.  That  ni.^lK  there 
occurred  an  incident,  which,  had  it  been  less  seri(,us,  nnj-hl 
have  been  quite  lauohable.  It  reminds  one  of  the  experience 
of  Rev.  hd^erton  K.  Younj?,  missionary  to  th(>  Indians  (.f  the 
Northwest,  who,  one  nij-ht  when  not  fully  awake,  mistook  his 
frozen  nose  for  an  ax-han<l]e  and  tried  to  relieve  his  face  of  the 
impudent  intruder.     In  the  mishap  referred  to, 

MR.    CLARK'S    NOSE 

had  protruded  too  far  through  the  opening  of  his  koo-le-tah 
and  was  frozen  to  his  sleeping  bag.  So  persistent  was  it  in  re- 
taining Its  new  formed  association  that  it  had  to  be  thawed 
ott  by  the  warmth  of  the  hands. 

and^in  watching  the  thermometer,  which  was  well  down  to 

FALLING  TO  —57  DEGREES 

during  the  night.  Do  his  best,  Morpheus  ould  not  make  the 
men  forget  that  it  was  a  cold  night,  and  yet  all  were  rea<lv  to 
proceecl  on  the  next  day,  although  at  no  time  was  the  ten  pera 

o  E«'  r  tt"  '"^''"-     ^  ^^"'"^^  ''  «-  miles  pii:^, 
to  Entrikin  that  he  was  not  himself  and  further  showed  that 

he  dogs  were  in  no  condition  to  breast  the  strong,  cold  win 
that  constantly  opposed  them. 

Th/ln'"'"!  *''""  ^'""^"^^  ^''  *'^^"  *^«  '^^y'  ^"^  recuperation. 
The  ow  tei  perature  continued  and  again  the  dreaded  Pib- 
hu  k-to  began  its  fearful  ravages,  a  victim  dog  biting  nearlv  all 
of  his  yoke-fellows  before  he  was  shot.  April  4th  and  5th 
brought  two  excellent  days'  sledging  and  in  them  the  partv 
covered  an  aggregate  of  over  thirty  miles.  However,  scarcel'v 
had  they  encamped  on  the  evening  of  the  latter  date,  befo,; 
Lurus  fell  uixm  then,  with  all  the  fury  of  a  dem<»n,  confining 
the  men  to  their  tent  for  three  days  and  playing  fearful  havoc 
with  the  poor  <logs.  "When  the  storm  ceased  many  of  them 
were  buried  completely  in  the  snow,  several  frozen  down,  and 


I  * 


454 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


two  were  dead  from  exposure.  All  the  sledges  were  completely 
snowed  in  and  the  tent  itself  half-buried  in  a  big  drift  "  It  wi. 
during  this  storm  that  Mr.  Baldwin  contracted  the  "cran.ns" 
I  pun  our  asking  Mr.  Baldwin  the  nature  of  this  affliction  wc 
were  promptly  told  that  it  was  not  an  ailment  of  the  stomach 
but  a  contrac-t.o„  of  the  muscles  brought  on  by  the  intense  cold' 
So  rigul  do  the  muscles  of  the  extremities  become  that  the' 
indivKlual  attacked  is  helpless,  and  relief  is  obtained  only  bv 
inflicting  upon  the  suffering  member  the  severest  blows  ' 

The  next  day's  march  covered  a  distance  of  seven  miles 
on^y.  Entrikin's  feet  were  much  worse,  and  two  of  the  dogs 
suftering  from  Pib-luck-to  had  bitten  nearly  every  doo-  in  the 
^Tt'     ^"f  ;^.*^^^^  ^^"S^''  Agitator,  was  the  leader,  or""king," 

wh!  '•      "o  ^^'"^ '  ''^"'-     ^'^  '^'''  '"^'^^^"^^  Lieutenant  Peary 
VM  tes:     "One  of  the.e  dogs,  the  Agitator,  a  powerful,  bi^ 

^2T^      "''' !""'  ''''  '^"^"^^^  ''  *'-  ^^«^«  P-chased  on  tlu: 
Labiador  coast,  presented  just  before  he  was  killed  as  savao-e 
and  gory  a  spectacle  as  I  have  ever  seen.     He  had  run  amuck 
I  lough  the  team,  and,  half  blind  as  he  was  with  froth  and 
blood  had  been  mercilessly  torn  and  shaken  by  the  do.^s  that 
he  had  attacked.     As  the  rifle  was  leveled  at  hfm  he  stood  ex 
hausted  and  panting,  with  head  and  neck  swollen  to  twice  their 
natural  size,  ears  torn  in  shreds,  eyes  bloodshot,  bloody  foam 
dripping  from  hi.  jaws,  and  his  entire  body  flecked  with  foam 
and  blood  and  clotted  tufts  of  fur.     Though  so  weak  that  he 
eould  scarcely  stand,  he  was  just  gathering  himself  for  another 
spring  at  the  dog  nearest  him  when  the  bullet  passed  through 
his  brain,  and  he  collapsed  in  a  (juivering  heap  on  the  bloml-    ' 
bespattere^d  snow."     "He  was,"  says  Baldwin,  "  a  most  faithful 
animal  and  I  killed  him  with  deep  regret.     Never  slacking  on 
his  traces,  except  when  scMzed  with  those  horrid  spasms   hv 
worked  to  the  last.     Toward   tlu^  end,  I  shortened  his  line 
fastening  him  back  of  the  other  <logs  „f  the  team  that  he  minht 
not  attack  them,  and  then,  in  his  madness,  he  would  lunge  for- 
ward, seize  the  chains  between  his  ugly-looking  jaws  and  leave 
upon  them  the  deep  imprints  of  his  teeth." 

It  needed  no  prophet  to  foretell  that  things  were  coming 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  455 

to  a  crisis.  Tlie  status  of  the  party  on  tlie  lOtli  day  of  April 
was  as  follows:  Entrikiu,  with  his  deeply  frosted  feet,  must 
return  to  the  Lodge.  Clark  had  both  heels  and  great  toes  frost- 
bitten and  was  daily  suffering  of  bleeding  from  the  nose.  Bald- 
win had  not  fully  recovered  frcni  the  cramps  and  any  provoca- 
tion of  the  weather  might  bring  them  ,.n  again.  The  season 
Avas  already  far  advanced,  considering  the  distance  the  party 
would  have  to  travel  before  they  even  reached  Independence 
JiHy.  The  existence  of  the  incurable  Pib-luck-to  was  the 
Aveightiest  drawback,  as  it  threatened  to  exterminate  entirely 
the  pack  of  dogs. 

Hays  Lieutenant  Peary  at  this  juncture:     "All,  however, 

SHOWED    TRUE    GRIT 

and  were  willing  to  push  on."  We  have  heard  with  what  feel- 
ings of  remorse  old  soldiers  have  given  up  their  battle-torn 
flags.  Sometimes  the  bitterest  disappointment  comes  when 
success  seems  nearest.  "With  such  soldiers  I  could  conquer 
the  world!"  exclaimed  King  I'yrrhus  as  he  gazed  upon  the 
scarred  countenance  of  a  Koman  soldier  stern  unto  death. 
What  must  Lieutenant  Peary  have  thought,  as  he  looked  into 
I  he  faces  of  the  three  men  awaiting  his  command,  resolute  even 
in  the  face  of  an  enemy  that  had  defied  every  effort  of  civiliza- 
tion.    Having  carried  the 

FLAG  OF  THEIR  COUNTRY. 

thus  far,  is  it  any  wonder  that,  as  their  eyes  rested  on  the 
tattered  shreds  of  all  that  remains  of  it,  their  spirits  spurned 
the  very  thougiit  of  returning?  But  "the  naked  truth  is  an 
awesome  thing."  With  men  disabled  and  dogs  dying;  with 
the  seas(m  advanced  out  of  all  ])roportion  to  the  distance  cov- 
cr«Ml;  Avith  the  possibility  of  a  later  expedition  demanding  care- 
ful conservation  of  the  men  and  means  there  was  no  aUerna- 
tive  but  to 

TURN    BACK. 

The  party  had  traveled  125  miles  north  of  Anniversary 
Lodge.  A  vvholc  day  was  coii«iimed  iii  erecting  the  signal,  re- 


•  • 


456 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


amuigiDg  the  sledge-loads  and  repairing  harnesses      One  en 

grade.     The  first  daj's  march  was  further  accelerated  hv  iu 
w.nd,  bnt  the  d«,s  placed  out  at  the  end  of  e^h  e  u  .die    ^ 

Ws  h        o  be  shot,  one  on  the  journey  and  four  at  can.p.    Th.. 
Paity  had  scarcely  finished  their  dinner  before  tlM-o.;/ 
clouds  rolled  up  fron.  the  southeast  andlo^: ".^t^,  ^  "^ 

HURLED    FROM    HIS    FEET 

in<  11  into  It.    The  f(,llow,„s  nioinim;  broiifrlil  a  calm     Tnc 
''"??«  were  denrt  an.l  another  fro.en  to  he  stak...    One  h^.lf  ,1^ 
«-  «pent  in  nntnng.in,  .io^s  an<l  dio.,i,„,  on    rteC    b    '  e 
the  party  re.s„n,e,l  its  homeward  mareh.    The  ,.„ndittn  o?  Mi 

With  the  advent  of  a  calm  nioht  sweet  sleep  fell  upon  the 
Y^ry  men,  bringing  the  much-needed  rost  and  composure  after 
the  protracted  storm.     Three  more  of  the  dogs  had  to  be  killed 
before  proceeding.     The  teams  IxMug  too  weak  to  draw  the 
heavy  sledge-loads,  ;J00  i)ounds  of  supplies  were  cached      The 
temperature  was  mil  !,  "the  thermometer  registering  -4°  Fahr 
Avhen  placed  upon  a  piece  of  fur  and  exposed  directlv  to  the 
rays  of  the  sun."     I„  this  sun.mer  <.alm  the  partv  made' sixteen 
"•'los      Again  Mr.  Entrikin,  after  trying  to  walk  with  his  f(M.( 
bundled  in  fur  cushions,  was  compelled  to  ride  the  entire  dis- 
tance. 

On  April  inth,  the  temperature  was  again  minus  40°  Fahr 
more  of  the  dogs  were  in  a  dying  condition,  the  strongest  of  t!i<' 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


457 


pack  now  succumbing,  and  the  party  were  obliged  to  cache 
Clark's  sledge  and  the  greater  portion  of  the  load  and  to  divide 
his  team  between  Entrikin's  and  Baldwin'ssledges.  Onlheuext 
day  several  more  of  the  dogs  died  and  the  men  struggled  on, 
accompanied  by  heavy  drifts  and  cutting  winds.  On  this 
march,  the  outward  sledge  tracks,  then  more  than  three  weeks 
old,  were  met  with  and  found  to  be  still  distinct.  These  were 
followed  about  three  miles  when  Baldwin's  team  gave  out  and 
the  weary  band  went  into  camp  after  having  traveled  fourteen 
miles. 

Thus  the  long  journey  homeward  progressed,  until,  after  a 
continued  absence  of  forty-five  days,  Anniversary  Lodge  was 
reached.  Mere  the  exhausted  party  were  heartily  greeted  by 
their  comrades  and  all  gradually  regained  their  usual  strength, 
meanwhile  anxiously  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  "Falcon," 
which  was  expected  to  come  from  St.  John's,  New  Foundland. 
On  this,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  sledge  journeys  on  record, 

ONLY    TWENTY-FIVE 

of  the  ninety-two  Eskimo  dogs  survived  the  terrible  ordeal  to 
which  they  had  been  subjected,  and  even  of  that  number  more 
t.ian  half  were  worthless.  A  few  more  days  must  have  exter- 
minated the  entire  pack.  On  the  retreat  scarcely  any  food  was 
taken  with  which  to  feed  them,  the  remnant  of  the  pack  sub- 
sisting on  their  dead  mates. 

Finally,  about  the  first  of  August,  the 

LONG-LOOKED    FOR    VESSEL    ARRIVED. 

Oaptain  Bartlett,  true  to  his  word,  had  safelv  brought  the 
staunch  little  cruiser  to  anchor  in  Falcon  Harbor,  on  the  20th 
of  August,  just  a  year  from  the  time  she  had  left,  after  having 
landed  the  band  of  explorers  on  that  desolate  coast  in  1893 

In  addition  to  Captain  Bartlett  and  crew,  the  relief  partv 
consisted  of  IT.  U.  Bryant,  secretary  of  the  Geographical  (Mub 
ot  1  hiladelphia,  commander;  Professor  T.  C.  Chamberlin,  hea«l 
professor  of  geology  in  the  University  of  Chicago;  Professor 
William  Libbey,  geographer,  Princeton  College;   Dr.  Ohlin, 


I 


4S8 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


zoologist,   SwedfMi'    ir     i       u  ■  i  * 

coll,  s„,.ge„u,  Philadelnliir  S  "' "'"'  ^'^  W«-H.- 

P.-ofe.»o.  a.a.„be,.nu'.  ,     .n^U^  .rrti";  ™,;;,;7  'l''"^'-'  '™" 

"GLACIAL  STUDIES  IN  GREENLAND  " 

."u'rllran/tVet^:;' -7  ""'';?:  """^•"  "-  P'-— ' 
part.vc.«,nd    ,     ish      I,  '     "''"■^,'',  U..u.e„ant  Pea,,-  aud  Lis 

'lis  wide  ..bsorvation  nZJn.   '""'  f<'  ''""wU'dgo  „f  tlio  ,-<.f;i(iu, 
m.  service,  were  „f  i„ea„.,„",  J    I ,',  to,      "m"  Vb  R^m'  "* 

S::;rni:r:;;^;— ---~e£ 

eont,uuo„s  daylisl.t  put  no  lin.it  to  the  daily  ZZ'-M 
western  follef-e  fhronicle.  '       "'' 

I{<.SardinK  the  eliaraeteristies  of  these  northern  .viaeiers 
Dr.  Chamberlin  remarl^s:  "The  feature  which  is  lilielv  (W  to 

lue  \<it.oalit.y  of  their  walls.    Sonthern  glaciers  terminite 
iavcHie'f  "T;:?""  ""  "'^''"  »^'a<--- of  middle  C  Zhtm 

nol     TIeH    ':  »"  ."^^H-.-nt  of  rock,  100  or  150  feet  or 
edZ^s       nl    ■'^'7'  '.''*'  '"""  '•"*  ''''afP  across,  exposing  their 

nect«     rl  .  "'■"'•"■"•lallr  a  glacier  presents  both  as- 

r      ecolTs,      ■?     *"■":'""  """^  *"™  '"«"""  a"  points 

uneKutl.v,  as  but  few  glaciers  fa.ing  the  north  were 


OR,    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  459 

seeii,  but  amoui.   these  veiticality  prevailed  much  as  else- 
vvliere. 

"Next  to  verticulity,  the  most  impressive  feature  is  the 
prouounced  stratificatiou  of  the  ice.  The  ice  is  almost  as 
distinctly  .bedded  and  laminated  as  sedimentary  rock  The 
vertical  face  usually  presents  two  j;,eat  divisions-an  upper 
tract  of  thick,  obscurely  laminated  layers  of  nearly  white  ice 
and  a  h>wer  laminated  tract  with  rock-rubbish  sandwiched 
between  its  beds. 

nJ'^^u  ^^^^''''^■'«y^r«  are  not  all  uniform  in  their  distribution, 
utten  they  have  much  regularity  and  persistence;  often  thev 
thin  out  and  disappear  within  a  short  distance;  more  often 
still  they  persist  for  a  few  rods  and  then  are  replaced  by  ad- 
joinins  layers  above  or  below  which  come  in  as  these  thin  out. 
1  nus  a  belt  of  layers  has  much  persistence,  while  the  con- 
stituent layers  are  freely  entering  and  vanishing.     Lenses  of 

h!;^r\T'r"'''^  'PP'''^'  •'^"^'^"^^  ^^'^  ^^y^"^''  «°d  a  doubling 
bac  k  of  the  layers  upon  themselves,  giving  a  lenticular  section, 
is  not  uncommon.  ' 

nJ-^t^  l"""^'"!''  •'"';  sometimes  very  symmetric,  straight  and 
parallel,  but  often  they  are  wavy  and  undulatory.  iS  manv 
instances  hey  are  greatly  curved  and  sometimes  contorted  ii 
an  intricate  fashion. 

"Tho  debris-belts  are  essentially  parallel  to  the  base  of 

rarot  beyond    '  ""'^'""^  ^'^^^  ^"^^'^  "^  *«  '''  ^-*  -^' 
"In  meeting  obstacles  in  front,  the  basal  beds  have  the  habit 

m^r^Ielf  "'""''  '?^"^"^  ""^^  '^^^^"^  -'*''  t^->-     ^erm^ 
moraines  are  sometimes  thus  made,  resting  on  the  edoes  of 

the  ice-layers  which  formed  them 

curved  r'^'T  "^''•'''''  '^'"  ^""^^''^  ^'^  sometimes  simplv 
lone  he  T'       '°',""''  ''"  Pron^inonce;    but  if  the  frontal 
slope  be  steep,  much  crumpling  of  the  laminae  often  takes 
jnace. 

t>".  tlicv  ai<.  fractuiwl  „n(i  faulted,  an.l  alons  the  fault-line 


460 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


^:nat^z  :;::r  "^  ^"^  "'■^--'^  "-'"^o™  to  that 

itself.     Keferri^g  t      h  "'  ^     Ttr  """y  '"  '■"'"  -^"""•<'" 
■"""Mains,  l,e  J,.^  '\T  ""Sutarity  of  the  border 

-;;;uhe,..t.„„/„:"l--rZl^^ 

another  season  with  only  ■,  Zln       ?    «" "'""'■"S  in  the  fle),l 
in  the  Bummer  of  1895;™.'  sed  to  C'  "'/"  """""  '"  "«'""' 

left  „p„„  the  iee-eao  in    h!     ^     r    """■■"  ^°  """  '"^  '••"•"•■x 

fip.     His  sweoessive  To,™et^    .  '"  "'"  ''"""''""  "'  "«■  "'>" 

lo«s  oflife  or  health     „■'•,,""''''''■'  "'*'"""  "<•"''<'■"  "■• 

..nstrate  that^r  a  *  'e  .n::;'^;''  ""  '"""^^'  ^""'^'y  <"•'»• 
I'leqnate  enuinmeot  If  I        ^l        accomplished  with  the 

bueJ  With  the  Cro,"  T/  "'  '"'""''  """'  »">^»eMy  im- 
«.en  are  to  be  ha  or  le  '  H  ff  ■""■■'''""■'•  And  when  s„cl, 
fairly  enconrald  bv  nf.  ^  "'l ''^''''"^'  «^''  "'.".V  "ot  to  be 
and  equipn  e™     'l^^rel  V  r,  ""  """""""^'^  "'  """'-  ^-'"^'''"^ 

BO  danger:,::  «:zT::zTj^7''' "? """  "•-''  '^  "-* 
3  Of  ti^re..„  «tenzr?::;:c^,ti:u;:t^  -^z 

../crtvxt'ri:  :?t  ;rr:e™;;;%'''- "-"  "•'"'■•" 

•several  islands  find  repre^entntirn  ZZ  L  ti  "''.ndr  "; 
a  hundred  glaciers  aas„n.e  definite  .ocaHoLTwh^^rfor"::;!; 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  461 

hardly  a  tenth  „f  that  n.unbe,-  appealed.    A»ti„p'»  map  of 
Melville  lUy  ,„„«(  al«,  be  u„te,l  iu  this  .-..uneetieil. 

Ihe  meteorological  records  I'rofessor  Salisbury  prououuces 
to  be  "probably  th,.  most  accurate  and  elabor„,;^l.ldch  Ive 
ever  been  secured  in  so  high  a  latitude,"  and  the  two  meteorites 

.  rntm:'inC:r* "'  ''"■"^  ''"■"  ""'^-^ «"""  ""■""-  -"  ^'^ 

rhamheHT''""""'  ,;"■'  """*""■'•''  "'''''"iKiti"ns  "f  Professor 
bury,  of  the  University  of  Chicago,  and  of  Professor  Libbey,  of 

tH  T  '■  r""'  ""  ""  «^<=<'«"nKl.v  I'igh  plane. 
n.ioT,t  Ten",  r""'!"!  """  '"™^"g»""»*'  "f  »<'ch  ripe  minds 
Flit.  '  ","-"'''""«'  '"rther,  cannot  even  be  surmised. 
Elsewhere  we  have  referred  to  the  importan.e  of  the  study  of 
the  magnet.,,  forces  of  the  earth,  and  Dr.  Chamberlin's  obser- 
vation  in  this  connection  is  full  of  interest: 

"Not  a  few  geologists  have  looked  with  some  measure  of 
hope  to  terrestrial  nuignetism  for  a  valtiable  eontributiou  to 
he  (lark  problems  of  the  earth's  interior.  We  have  long  felt 
that  there  should  be  dis.-overable  some  medium  which  could 
be  operated  upon  by  some  inventible  device  in  such  a  way  as 
to  serve  as  a  stethoscope,  so  to  speak,  to  declare  the  coudiVions 
and  the  changes  in  the  heart  of  the  earth 

"Megnetisni  is  ,me  of  the  suggested  media,  and  it  mav  reveal 
•oiidi  lons  of  the  interior  m.w  quite  hidden  from  us."    .)uotin.. 

heetdnir'  Z""'"-  "f  .M'"'«'^'l-'eferring  to  the  sensitized 
sheet  of  the  self-registermg  magnetograph-he  ad.ls:  "On  that 
papor,  the  nevei-resting  lu.art.of  the  earth  is  now  tracing  u 
telegraphic  syniboLs,  whi,.h  will  one  day  be  interpreted,  a"e" 
j>n  of  Its  pulsations  and  its  flutlLrings,  as  well  as  of  that  sm.w 

but  m,gl,ty  ,v„rt,„,,  (f|„.  ,„..,„,,^  ^,^^^  « 

t     t  «.  inu.,   not  suppose  that  the  inner  history  of  our  planet 
nded       (  ertainly,  criticism  of  th<.  labors  of  su.h  men  is  not 

ar  "manV't';;  T" '"'"1  ""  '"  "''""''  ^""■"  "^  l"'™^i"- 
are  manj,  the  harpings  of  the  stay-at-home  critic  become  re- 


462 


the:  search  for  the  north  POLE; 


p.«ble.    lu  tUe  Plain,  practical  lon.„„go  of  Enginee,. 

„„,,"'^'"'  ":"'''7'  »""  Kl'"""''.  ""'1  w„«ld.be  criticH  ot  Arctic  toil 
nn.l  Nulfcrnift  hall  a.„l  know  that  the  men  whom  ymi  t,a  I 
or  whose  memories  von  hi,.„.  r  .  ^      tiaduce 

line    Me  ,.,.  I     VI  •'""/'''""  f"i-<'y<^r,  perhaps  for  a  penny  a 

vet  ;;,:,"'.""'*'•  '■'">■ '"""  >■""■'  '"™  who  were  an.1  are 
Ll-e of  i  •  ■'.  "'  ""■■■•>■•'""«  "■'  •'"■■tl'  »av,.  honor  for  the 

best      ,,r,wT"'  ""  ""T"'  •"  ■'"""''■'<'■     M-'  »""  "W  H.ei 
De«t    an.i  ,1, at  best  ,»  so  far  ahea.l  of  th,.  ,-ou,-eptio«  of  their 

:'■"",'!'  ■(""«-«  '""t  it  i-  a  nation's  sha ihat  it  permi 

">  >;•»,  l.v,n«  an.l  ,lea,l,  to  be  .Iragged  thr„,„,h  tl  e  sH  ,  e  o 

i  u,t  of  s     '";,"'■"""  '"'■  """  «"'"i''"'"™  ""lie  prurient  nu 

rAti,  ;;';;'""*'■"''  >" "-« '^^"■■-  "»■'  ■^"^  <^«™'"-  "f 

.rinlinl  '"  T"  ""  ''■'""  "•"■"  *"«  "■""•"W  of  some  tall 

PMitiuK-honse  south  of  50°  north  latitnile  " 

Qnote,rth'e,'"''""  """"'  ^"""  ""^^ '"""«''  P"!-"™''"-  previonsly 
quoteil,  there  appears  a  concise  statement  of 

THE  AUTHOR'S  PLANS  FOR  THE  FUTURE, 

Which,  being  in  keeping,  with  the  obje,.t  for  which  this  volnm,- 
has  been  .ssned,  we  may  no,  inappropriately  repeat  in  Z 

weron'hi:'!'''^"''v''''''''"P"^''''''''"'»t«'' ••«''''"«<"«*«"« 

est    f  (  h,cag„  ,s  „u,te  nniqne  in  Arctic  relations.     Itself  an 

'  ;  ta  nsN'::""   ■';  "  "<""'-♦"""'-  "»<-  "s  nan,e  fron,  th 
aptains  Naper,  who  were  among  its  earliest  settlers,  havin. 
"■ated  on  the  banks  of  the  Dnl'age  River  as  early  as  1830 

'u'^;  :,'"■■'!  *'""  "'''  ""'  "^^  -il-S-nasters  on  Lake 

t as  born  Dr  r    .""':  T  *""  "i"  '''■-"^'''Pt-"  t-'-N  «till  in  nse, 
was  boin  Dr  C.  (  .  Adams,  ot  The  New  York  Snn,  the  eminen 

seograph.cal  writ,.,  and  the  friend  an.l  patron  ,^  Lien  en" 

fta  y  ,n  a  1    h,s  Arctic  nndertakings;  here,  too,  another  j"! 

alist  the  lan,ente,l  Mr.  Scott,  of  The  Chicago  Times-Herald 

he  patro,,  of  the  Wellman  E..pe.lition,  conrted  and  marr  e'     f; 

.'ir  granddaughter  of  an  early  settler;  and  last  but  not  lea  t 

here  was  reared  our  own  Evelyn  B.  naldwin,  whose  maternal 


OB,   LIFE   IN   THE   GBEAT   WHITE   WORLD.  403 

faiM'r;'!!;;'' ^^    """,  !'''■"•"■"""  ''«'"^'«  "=- ">-.. 

t    .-  .  '",    •  ■'""  """  *"■•  ^^■"""'""'x  was  Hi 

"^vv  'm     ir;,"^'  '"'■"";  "•''l>''"'atim,  in  „„.  (ar  N-,„(h,     II,. 
M  .  *"■'"'•'■>'  ''I-M^lition  «as  far  fr,,,,,  l„.|„,,  „  f„iiu,,.- 

i             Ir                ""'l""l-t,.,II,v  l,av,.  ,„.,  will.  H„',-,.s»  hail 
t  .. ot  boon  f„P  the  .•.■ushins  "f  hi»  v,.ss,.|  wl,,.,,  a(  ll„.  „„ia 
»  aH.n,.  „„  ,,|.s  sl,.,Ig..,our„o,v  noHhwa,,!  f, ,  S  ,     „  '      , 

.■xoepti.,,,  „„„  ■:utv;;'ei     ""'"■'""" """  ""■'■'■'"-"» 

„„„!'*'■'•  '*."'."■-'■'"  '""•""I  f'">""'  «as  ,l,.,„.|v  owin.>  to  i„.„l,. 
imto  provisions  and  ,.,|uipn„.nt.     Il,„l  ,|„.'r,.|i,.f  ^     , 
a    -nl  to  brin«  „is  part,  , takoi,  oxira  si,    ,1  : 

""    liclil,  ho  wonhl  have  aoooniplisho,!  tlio  ni.«t  brilliant 

;-:;rr\x:;:n,::i::x:^;b;:!;;;i;?^,;''7h: 

oDjo,  t  « 111  be  to  (hsoovor  tho  polo.    That  is  iintrno-althou.rh 
..T^bv"" ,"'"'""  """  '"  ■■"  "'""""  ''  '"'"-' '"  "-  -         N  ' 
"oofr,„l  v        T         r  *"  '■""""•■*•■    *""    """'"Pniont    of    tho 

otSo  V  ;n;;;r' """""'  '"■•''"«•'■•  ""■' «>•'  -"""-"v, 

of  H,„r-       I    "!"■''  '"""  ""  I'''"fi'««'"-<'lia>nborlin,  «,: ist 

HeilDrin    n.,t„^nr  V         ;  '  "'  ''■  "''■'"'"  '""I  l'r"f"ssor 

ileilpim,  naturalirts  and  explorers,  of  Pennsylvania,  and  of 


4«4 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE: 


DtlwvH  Who  have  iiiadc  great  personal  Haerlflce  in  the  distant 
Nort  h,  should  not  be  slighted.  The  press  and  the  public  should 
be  sutticiently  Anjerican— patriotic  and  inlelligent  enough— 
to  lend  to  their  countrymen  all  possible  encouragement  in  such 
research.  There  are  thou.sands  who  would,  if  they  but  under- 
stood  clearly  .An-tic  conditions  and  the  causes  of  the  so-called 
failui-es  of  previous  expeditions,  <-ontribute  freely  toward  an 
enterprise  that  must  result  in  a  common  benelit. 

"'Failure  heretofore  has  almost  invariably  resulted  not  in 
the  advance  but  in  the  retreat  of  the  explorers  and  navigators. 
Let  this  be  hold  in  mind  and  a  suttlciency  of  ecpiipment  and  pro- 
visions lookc«l  j|ft<'r  and  success  must  follow.     The  terrible 
fate  of  the  (Jreely  Expedition  emphasizes  this  fact.     It  will  be 
recalled  that,  having  failed  to  establish  suttl<'ieut  caches  of 
provisions  on  the  outward  voyage,  and  relief  failing  to  get  to 
them  in  time,  nineteen  of  the  twenty-tive  men  perished  at  Cape 
•  Sabine,  the  point  to  which  they  had  retreated  after  having  lirst 
carried  on  very  successfully  scientific  investigations  in  (Irinnell 
Land  and  North  (Jreenland,  Lieutenant  Lockwood,  then  but 
thirty  years  of  age,  and  Sergeant  Brainard,  at  that  time  less 
dian  twenty-six  years  of  age,  attaining  the  farthest  north,  viz  • 
latitude,  83°  24'. 

"  'General  Greely  and  Lieutenant  Peary  have  both  said  that 
this  work  mnst  be  done  by  young  men  of  good  health,  of  per- 
sonal enthusiasm  and  adecpnite  intelligence,  and  of  age  be- 
tween the  years  of  twenty-tive  and  forty.  It  suggests  to  the 
hundreds  of  colleges  and  universities  scattered  throughout  the 
land  that  here  is  a  chance  for  strictly  original  research  and  a 
rare  chance  of  adding  to  museum  collections,  etc. 

"  'As  suggested,  I  do  not  believe  in  making  a  "dash"  for  the 
pole;  it  is  too  meteoric.  Furthermore,  the  work  should  not 
be  undertaken  by  ambitious  I's  but  by  none-the-less  enthusias- 
tic we's.     In  the  North  ^^'orld  there's  elbow  room  for  all. 

"  'Preparations  for  such  a  trip  cannot  be  safely  hurried. 
Supplies  for  not  less  than  three  years  should  be  carried  and  the 
retreat  provided  for  as  carefully  as  the  advance  by  establishing 
caches  at  close  intervalfi  along  the  march. 


10  (liHtnnt 
licHhoulil 
('n(nij;li — 
lit  in  Hucli 
Hit  iiuder- 
'  so-called 
o'.vard  an 

^ed  not  In 
ivi^atoi's. 
t  and  ]U'()- 
i>  ((M'l'ibh' 
It  will  be 
caclK^s  of 

to  get  to 
d  at  Cape 
vins  lirst 

Orinnell 
then  but 
time  less 
)rth,  viz.: 

said  that 
li,  of  per- 
'  a<>'e  be- 
t.s  to  the 
:hoiit  the 
eh  and  a 

"for  the 
Diild  not 
ithusias- 
1. 

hurried. 

and  the 

blishin^ 


(Sei'ChapteiBXL.uiKl  XLII.) 


fWMP 


iJP^"",>i.ip  III 


'•■■    •■  .,••  ■/.•,;>;.    //4 


A  Paleocrystic  Ice-Floe. 

(See|.iigP8!>05,  8fi«,ftc.) 


The  Jackson-Harmsworth  Expedition. 


J.  F.  Child, 
MinuralosiiJt. 


("omiiiissiiriiit 

Ollicor, 
A,  Aniiit.'iKe, 
AistrouoiiiL'r. 


F,  G.  Jackson,  A.  Sclilossliauer, 

Loailor.  Sailing  Master. 

(See  Chapter  XL1V.1  s.  Y.  Windward. 


PR,    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  465 

" '  Some  weeks  ago  when  on  a  visit  to  the  Northwestern 
Lniversity,  I  stated  my  preference  of  routes,  and  continue  of 
he  same  opinion  formed  while  with  Lieutenant  Peary  in  North 
Greenhind  in  1893-4.  That^belief  is,  that  the  expedition  should 
tai  ,''fTnn  '"VT  ''  P"''*^'"  *"  ^^^'  ''^^  headquarters  of  Cap- 
he  nlr^'  .  ''''*''°  '"^'^  «^  1^«^^«''"  Channel  and 
the  northwestern  coast  of  Greenland,  at  which  point  aid  can 

be  rendered  by  the  Eskimos  just  south.    Further-  explorati  n 
no  thward  would  complete  the  delineation  of  Northern  (JreeL 
and  S?.!        ?  u" '""'^^  "^ '^''  ^''^'"^"^^'^  Lieutenant  Lockwc,<,d 
tmveHn  ^     "         T'''^  ''  ''''  ^^^^'^^'  Expedition.     Thence 

voH     7  V"^  '''"'  *^"  ^^•"■'"l^  "^  ^^'^^  Greenland,  the 

work  of  completing  the  survey  of  Northeastern  Greenland 

o? Giinnell T""f '''f ;  ^''"^^ ''''  --""^ination  of  the  west  <.oast 

Gen^rarGrX  ""'  ""'  ^'^  ""''  "  ^'^^  '''''''''  '' 

•schiicfdTn'rV^"'^"'^''^'^"^'  ^"*"^"-  ^"^^  competent  men, 
cent  nf  ?,i  I".  "'"''''  ^'^*^^  Lieutenant  Peary,  as  Dr.  Vin- 

tent  of  Illinois;  Messrs.  Entrikin  and  Stokes,  of  Pennsvlvania  • 
Dr  Cook,  of  New  York,  and  Mr.  George  II.  Clark,  of  Massachu- 
setts, have  signified  their  intention  of  going  again,  it  mav  be 
safe  y  cone  uded  that  their  efforts  will  be  ciwne^l  with  success 
Finally,  w^e  hold  with  Sir  W.  E.  Parrv,  with  McClure 
Scoresby,  Dr.  Kane,  Greely,  and  others,  that  tie  isolated  people 
of  the  frozen  ^orth,  the  ever-faithful,  intelligent  and  friendlv 
Eskimos,  deserve  more  and  better  treatment  at  the  hands  .if 
the  civilized  world  than  they  have  had.     The  successful  investi- 
gation of  that  far-off  land  will  be  greatly  facilitated  bv  a  hu- 
mane treatment  of  its  inhabitants.'  " 

In  the  above  expressed  preference  or  choice  of  routes  we 
are  by  no  means  alone,  as  will  be  lear„e<l  frou,  the  followin 'r  (^v- 
tiact  taken  from  a  communication  addressed 

TO    THE    AUTHOR,    BY    LIEUTENANT    D.    L.    BR^INARD 

It  is  self-explanatory,  and  coming  as  it  does  from  the  onlv  man 
living  who  has  had  experience  in  the  matter  of  which  lie  writes 
He  says        '"'"""^"*  «'  ''''  ^^""^^'^^t  ""^th,  is  of  great  value.' 


>H 


'  i  I 


ii 


466 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


"To  reach  a  hioh  latitude  a  vessel  should  be  placed  in  New- 
mau  Cay,  ou  the  west  coast  of  Greenland,  just  south  of  lati- 
tude 82°  north.  This  is  an  advantageous  position  and  would 
enable  a  party  to  place  depots  of  provisions  in  the  autumn  for 
use  in  the  early  spring  work.  This  adanced  position  in  a  fav- 
orable year  would  enable  a  party  to  attain  a  much  higher  lati- 
tude^ than  was  reached  by  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and  myself; 
and  it  would  also  doubtless  determine  the  northern  point  of 
Ureenland." 

Lieutenant  Brainard  also  believes  "from  the  character  of 
the  ice  in  the  I'olar  Basin,  that  clusters  of  islands  Avill  be  found 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  pole." 

Moreover,  and  aside  from  the  thought  of  scientific  and  geo- 
graphical investigation,  it  is  not  unworthy  of  consideration 
that  Dr.  Xansen  and  his  courageous  companions  may  hit  upim 
the  north  coast  of  Greenland  or  upon  the  undiscovered  polar 
lands  and  may  require  assistance  in  returning  to  civilization 
with  their  lives  and  treasures  of  scientific  information. 

Auxiliary  to  the  main  expedition,  small  supporting  parties 
should  be  established  at  such  points  as  would  conduce  both  to 
scientific  investigation  and  possible  assistance  to  the  main 
party  and  to  each  other.     For  illustration,  two  or  three  men, 
preferably  a  zo.dogist,  a  geologist,  and  a  philologist  stationed 
in  the  vicinity  of  Etah  would  be  able  to  employ  the  time  fully 
in  that  vicinity  besides  commanding  the  assistance  of  the  na- 
tives of  that  region.     A  philologist  would  find  a  new  field  for 
investigation  there,  for  the  language  of  the  Etah  Eskimos  has 
never  yet  been  studied  scientifically  or  reduced  to  writing. 
Another  party  with  Eskimo  supporters  should  be  maintaineAl 
at  or  iwiw  Cape  Sabine,  whence  the  exploration  of  the  West 
Grinnell  Land  coast  should  be  accomplished  and  a  large  col- 
lection of  scientific  data  and  s])(Miuiens  made.     Thence  north- 
wai'd  to  Newman  Bay,  provision-depots  should  be  made  at  con- 
venient points.  From  Newman  Bay  the  entire  energies  of  the 
party  should  be  directed  northward,  with  the  possible  allow- 
ance for  a  very  small  hunting-p.irty  to  be  maintained,  should 
circumstances  favor,  at  Fort  Conger,  in  the  vicinity  of  which 


OR.   LIFE   IN   THE    GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  467 

game  is  known  to  be  abundant  and  where  beyond  a  doubt  a 
arge  quantity  of  food  for  the  main  party  would  be  secured 
for  use  in  case  of  need.  Besides,  the  house  and  provisions  left 
<it  that  point  by  Lieutenant  Greely  would  probably  still  be 
available.  "^ 

nnn!*!?! ""f '"'"■■'■  ""'"'''  "'  ^^"^  ""^  ^'"'i"''  ™"'<1  be  relieved 
Ifeh      «    ''":''»'*«Y' »t  1  »">'l"-ate  expense  an,l  with  entire 

vU  e^f  tnrn    rM'^  '""'""■■  '"'""'y'  "''"-f  Engineer  Mel- 

l.!tl    V      V"'*f  ^*''"'"  "'*'"'-'•'  ""'"'«* '""!-'  ""'1  l'<'i'«ic  Arctic 
service  Ims  already  been  noted,  has  this  t„  sav : 

harbtni  """""T  """'  '"•^■•"^  ^'■'«'*-''  "^'^  '»'■  '"«  "liter, 
harbor,    t  ,s  enchanting  enough  to  te,n,,t  anv  one  to  winter 

here  and  drink  in  its  Arctic  glories,  from  the  great  roci'td 
ng  away  m  the  fog  fron,  the  black  to  a  ha.,  purple,  to  the 
daz.l,ng  purity  of  the  crystal  glacier.    Ther^  'is  n'tl'nng  so 
llonnir         !T''  "'"'  '  ™'"""  "^'P  '"""■•'Ung  why  our  mil- 

less  sights.  The  voyage  can  be  made  in  two  months,  July 
and  August,  with  entire  safety  to  tlie  frailest  of  their  steam 
yachts. ' 

And  that  two  or  three  enthusiastic  young  scientists  sta- 
tioned at  that  place  would  be  able  to  command  the  assistance 
of  the  faithful  and  affectionate  natives  of  that  region  appears 
from  the  following  letter  from  i>r.  Vincent,  the  phvsician  and 
TZZ  "^^^l*^"*^"''^"^  P^«ry's  North  Greenland  Expedition 
of  1893-4.  It  is  j.iven  to  show  what  may  be  accomplished  with 
entire  safety  by  a  very  small  number  of  men  properlv  disci- 
plined and  assisted  by  the  ingenious  natives,  iu  a  region  which 

Ignorance  and  inexperience  has  invested  with  manv  ima-inarv 
perils:  "^     i«t.'"«*iy 

"My  Dear  Baldwin.    '  ""'Uag",  I".,  Feb.  3,  189(i. 

VrZlrvZZ7\  '"•'■  "".•■"■'•'""■^  "f  '"•^-  *"P  "it"  Entrikin  over 
<  ryst,,|  Pa  ace  Glacier  gives  me  an  infinite  amount  of  pleasure- 
n  plea.,u,.e  becau.,e  you  have  reserved  a  spa.-e  iu  vour  boo      ,1; 

c  Is  t,::::r''i  ':■  '""= ' "  ""'•■'™'-''  '«■'•--  <>  -  ^i ; 

lecalls  the  safe  deliverance  froiu  m  1110-+  ^-v-t  .t  i  ,.» 

--  i^i^ji.i  ,s  jjiOoi  tijiLg  juurney. 


468 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE: 


"Oi,  May  2d,  189J,  E„„.iid„  a„,l  ,„ysolf  started  fro,,,  Vnni 
vcpsary  Lodge  with  iteus.,elaer  llarbo.,  D.^KleT  „  Z 
.ead„„arte,.s,  as  oa.  objective  „oi„t.     Vv'e  ha.,  twolbj'u  ^ 

ll„  .s,,e„(,ft,.  .„„t,.„,„eut»  left  H,e.v  b.v  Ka„e  „„o„  hi    ret.vat 
;|.|. ,  second   to  eajoy  a  „o,ar  bear  hunt.    EutrikirLd  Oul' 

.    acty  f„,.  ,„e,  w.th  an  equal  nu„,ber  of  dogs.    At  Ig-loo'  lo 

.IttZL";  "•"'■■''. J™;-"  •^•'-  M.v-'-»k>  "oeSf  the  oldest  ami 
n,ost  influent,al  nien  in  the  ti'ibe 

"Rea,l,i„g  N,„.uie,  which  is  distant  aboat  tweuty-five  miles 
f  ■on,  A„n,versa,.y  Lodge,  we  „„.  into  a  heavv  snow-sto  ■ ,      u,l 

eatie,  sho„l,I  be  nw.-e  favoi-able.     N„,.|iie  at  this  ti„,e  of 

t"e™i:anta ""'■'",'■     '''""  '"''"'-'''  '<»■  ™™™  — ""  «nd 
M.1  0,,?f  '  '  ''"''"'  ""'  "■'»*<••  '"'-tter  up  i„  lugle. 

storm  [tw^Vr*^  r;!  "'■^^"•"^"■«">P  fro-gh  a  bliuding  snow- 

ve  he,v  !,;„  7      '"•'  '•"•'■  '^r'-»  '"  *'"^^^  ^l-'-'M  quartet  and 
"t  utie  spent  tlio  oiismiio-  night 

",orn1;l':;""m!1"""'"'  '""■"""  '""^^  "*"""'  '^'^w^'-iwake  next 
,,,,,ru,ug      1   e  younger  natives  stated  tl,at  he  had  gone  will,- 

«u    ™us,ng  tl,e,„,  and  they  see,ned  to  be  as  „„„.l,'pl„e  ed 

by  h,s  abseueo as  were  Ent.ikin  an,l  „,yself.     However  to  v*^r 

he  m,ddle  of  the  afternoon  he  ,-et„,.ne.I.     It  see,  ,<!%";". 

had  gone   ar  enough  b,.yond  Pefe.-ah.wiek  to  v'-     v  w  a    In 

up  in  Sm  th  Sonnd  by  the  action  of  the  Acre  storn,  of  the  day 

before  lie  stated  that  a  journey  to  the  north  over  the  sea  i^ 
™s  out  of  the  question.     However,  our  disappoint.nent  was  ^ 

with  'Z  '     '  '■"!'■■  "  '^"  """"^-^  '"  """'-t  -versatiou 

^vith  the  younger  nativ  Kes-shu  e.xplained  to  us  that  the,-,, 
was  a  „.ay  to  reach  Etal,  by  u,akiug  u.s,.  of  the  'ice  foot '  the 

Zl'  r;  «  *"  T""""-  ""  "'^"""■"■'l  ♦""*  it  "onhl  be  no  chihl's 
pla.->,  but  that  he.was  willing  to  lead  if  we  would  follow.  Ac 
cordmgly  we  hastily  ,,acked  the  sledges  for  tl,<.  .iou,.uev. 

Kes-shu  was  one  of  the  most  iutelligent  natives 'in  the 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GHEAT    WHITE    WORLD.  «, 

over  ev„v  i,-„-t  „f  ,^.       ,  '"'  ""''  "*'  "  ''"■^'  1""'  tiai.i„«l 

p,-.  fr;      't  i;^"'^'  •^"" '";  '*«  »■"««'  »'"-f'>''e  made  excellent 

iov  found  tlinf  fj.^  •      1     ,    *'"'^''t  uiiiKuin,  and  to  our  great 

Z"     ■       !  ""'  '"'*■'  ""<'  "■<■  were  soon  under  n'av  ao-nl,, 

"dKing  throuKh  the  deep  snow.    Approaelnns  thef  te "  rf 
t.e  saner,  a  narr„w  and  exceedingly  steep  ravine  was  d 

terecl.stwVrf        <.■;''  """  ^'"'^'"^  '"'  <•»""•'<'»»  "S™.  «l'«'l- 

oneiid:^^:^xi:;r,s::'t;;rz^-«--:-- 

<Ired  feet  above  ,       Z  1 1 .  "^      .         '"  *""■"'■"'«  '""•'•  ■••  '""' 

granite.  s,„,:;  „ ,  ^ , ^^^ !  '...^.r:;;:"*  "r-"^''" "  "'"«-^- 

of  llieron.d.  snrf-ice„f  t .     i        '  '  "'''  *"■«""  "»'  "««'»* 

«now  grew  Z;.nd   ,?'■'■  '^'  "'"  ■■'^•'''■"'^"'  ""■ ""«"! 

Y  '-.redX,:;:!  Sir 'r':;:^    ■^"-t  <'t 

plowed  in  front  of  the  slclges.     T  ,  ',11  «"lt  '^.""*"'"--'"-'- 

covered  creva.sse  wis   in  ,?„„  .■    V  ^""f  '"  ''  »""«■ 

.nattersw.,r.,e  =„",,:'".'""";":'>''  '"•'•"■•'■""<■'",  and  t,.  make 
y-ist,  „n<m  Uyau  ro  fail  in  ^ri 


densitj.     Row 


we 


470 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


longed  for  «ncvv.slioes,forwewere  soon  floundering  laboriously 
through  snow  that  was  over  our    boot    tops.     •     *     *     vvZ 

he  foot  of  the  glacier  to  the  sea  ice  of  Foulke  Fiord.     Our 
aueroHl  r<.g.stere<l  1,165  feet  at  the  summit  of  the  glacier     I 
was  here  that  we  paused,  and,  in  spite  of  our  fatigue  and  the 

vhirhng  snow,  drank  in  the  sublime  beauties  of  the  most  pic! 

uresnue  of  glaciers.     Fancy  a  Y  placed  in  this  position    'I 
and  It  gives  you  a  rough  idea  of  its  contour.     Far  to  the  north 

;t  eT;'T  u^'^^r:r^^^' ,,,,,  ,reat  tioes  of  tr 

t  e  eje      To  the  south,  the  rugged  face  of  Cape  Alexander 
thrust  Its  sharp  nose-far  into  the  Sound.     To  the  east  extend 

l^.:::^'::^::'  r°^^  ^^^■^^^' '''  ^^-^^^  «^"*^-'  "^ 

he  7        A;  '      '  "^'"^  '^°  '^^'^'-     «»^'  although  it  was 

he  .  th  of  May,  ,t  was  bitterly  cold.     The  exertion  of  the  ascent 

i^y :;;  ;ii  r^';;;'  '^'"'  '•^■^"^•^ '-'--  ^"  i-spimtio!:^;;:;:^ 

tivitj  on  oui  part  was  necessary,  for  a  ,,ause  ,.  but  a  few  niin 
"tes  sufficed  to  chill  us  to  the  marrow.     In  reaching   1  le  sea  ie 
once  more,  w(^  enjoyed  a  coast  that  I  shall  long  renrember     So 
«..ft  was  our  descent  that  the  dogs  could  not  keep  pace  wi^ 
fo'low    "''"''^"^^'•^'  '''  ^"*  ^'^^'^  traces  and  allowed  them  to 

.J.T''^  "'•  n^  "^^^  now  comparatively  good  and  our  drooping 
.spirits  rapidly  revived.  Kes-suh  managed  to  se<.ure  a  seal  as 
we  huriied  on  to  Etah,  now  in  sight.  So  fatigued  were  we 
upon  our  arrival  there  that  I  fear  we  failed  to  appreciate  the 
novelty  of  our  surroundings.  Here  we  were  at  Etah-the  most 
northern  habitation  on  the  face  of  the  globe.  While  suppin-^ 
our  tea  we  summed  up  the  day's  journey.  We  had  consumed 
just  twenty-two  hours  In  journeying  the  sixtv-two  miles,  walk- 
ing every  step  of  the  distance,  the  greater  part  of  which  was 
thnnigh  snow  to  our  knees-and,  by  the  way,  we  had  not  eaten 
in  all  that  time. 

"WretclKMl  weather  delayed  us  another  two  days.  On  the 
third  day,  after  a  twenty-two-mi h^  tramp,  we  were  on  the  sum- 
mit of  Littleton  Island,  recalling  the  many  stirring  and  unhap- 
py tragedies  that  had  been  enacted  within  the  radius  of  a  few 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  m 

"Tlie  shattered  condition  of  tlio  ice  forced  n«  t      • 

-uons  ,„,.  „„  ,„,.,,  r^t  next,;,';;::,;',:::'""""'  -"•  -"•■  '"-i"'- 

ti'ii  feet  iuvav     v,.,,.  «,ueel,v  (lislmfjursh  cacl]  „tl 

cent   Cr    r  ',  ,     "^"""""'  '"'•  '"'""■"  '"  "■'■■•.V  ""•'■Hi"..  .■... 

«-a»    «„„„  Z.,      .'„.,,.       ':""V"'"««'-'.'  1 f"".v,  b. I 

t.'av..|,.,l  dni-ino.  b,.t  H    . .   h         f^     '     '   '""*'   ''"•>«'    b=i<l 
tance  of  tU^^U^Ir^i;;^,^"''''  ""■"'  """  """  "— '  •■•  "- 

u.ai""n:aii:C:';''t7:.'T'''; '*-«->*— .•n-b,.o,„..,.s  of 

^'«a}„  been  vuiy  f«na  uf  Kntrikiii,  b„t  at  tLo  end 


472 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE    NORTH   POLE; 


of  our  journey  I  was  ready  to  proclaim  Uim  a  prince  of  good 
fellows. 

"I  trust  I  have  written  subject  matter  that  may  prove  use- 
ful; and  believe  me,  I  hope  your  efforts  may  meet  with  the 
success  they  certainly  deserve, 

"Faithfully  yours, 

"Edward  Vincent." 

The  following?  account  by  the  late  Eivind  Astrup  of  his 
memorable  and  successful  reconuoissance  of  Melville  Bay  and 
its  coast  line,  two  years  ago  this  month  and  next  (April  and 
May,  189()),- appears  in  the  "Fortuij^htly  Keview"  for  April; 
is  of  a  much  more  familiar  and  popular  character  than  that  of 
the  Lame  journey  in  the  "Koyal  Geographical  Journal"  some 
mouths  since,  and  gains  interest  from  Astrup's  death  in  De- 
cember in  the  mountains  of  his  native  Norway.  The  start 
\Aas  made  from  Mr.  Peary's  headquarters  at  Bowdoin  Bay, 
two  hundred  fifty  miles  north  of  Cape  York. 

COMRADE  ASTRUP'S  ACCOUNT  OF  HIS  TRIP  TO  MELVILLE  BAY. 

At  the  commencement  of  April  I  began  the  necessary  prep- 
arations, wliich,  for  more  reasons  than  one,  were  both  few  and 
simple.    As  regards  meat,  I  had  to  rely  solely  on  my  luck  as 
a  hunter,  and  it  was  therefore  necessary  for  me  to  secure  a 
good  native  companion  and  fellow  sportsman,  which  I  found 
in  my  friend  Kolotengva.     Koloteiigva  is  a  young  Eskimo  of 
about  five  and  twenty  years  of  age,  low  of  stature  but  well 
knit,  with    sinews   of  steel,  and    quite   incredible   muscular 
strength.     Ills  eyes  are  small,  but  he  sees  with  them  objects 
far  beyond  the  vision  of  ordinary  mortals.     His  long,  black 
hair  is  by  nature  slightly  curled,  and  forms  a  rather  handsome 
frame  around  a  daring  and  regular  face.     As  a  hunter  he  has 
no  equal— he  reminds   me   in   many   respects   of  Fenimore 
(\)oi)er's  Indian  chiefs.     Nobfxly  in  the  whole  tribe  could  be 
ia'ouder  than  Kolotengva,  nobody  more  free  and  independent, 
nobody  stnnclier  in  friendship  or  nobler  in  thought,  nobody 
cooler  in  ihe  hour  of  danger,  or  more  astute  during  the  hunt— 


OR,    LIFE    m    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  4,3 

.0     nss  ,  ht    ",""'"""'""■.  "  •l„.ra,„„„.t,.,-,  a  cl.n,,,,,,,,,.,,.,-,  a 
■  nan     r    ;"■'  ';.'""'  ^I""'''-I-.  '-I'"'-!.,,  „,.i..MtiH,.  (abl  • 

n  ;       ;,,,    f  """",'""'  "™  '■'"'■"•  "">•  '■^"•<,i,lK,.s,  a  K„,all 

."   »   a      n,.:r  '■'"•t""''  "■""  "■"'  ""■  "»  ""■'■••  "•"«  "'••"l"■■• 

ax,  an,   a  few  extra  paim  „f  soekH  and  leRsin^s/   Of  ,1,„  s  I 

« ™e ;."  r'T:""-'  '"■  ■"""■'■■"«  -«'"  whuxt  „«;:.« 

naave  ,     ,M  '^"  ':*™«^"  "■"'  "«.v«elf  j„»t  befere  mu-  start,  .m 
na(    e  m,„k.|,  with  i-nnners  .sl„„l  with  |H,lisl,e,l  bene. 

start   ni'.t  "m'     '*;  "'  '^^'"  ''"'  ""■J"""!.'  was  readv  fer  tbe 
"et  Iff  i,  the  f  «"•  •'"•oatenia.-Iv  "nnhV  (.ero  Fab.),  we 

:1 ,  ?       '         ""*  '"  ""•  «""'  '""  f""  !'""«  '."avy  and  lea.len, 
an.  fa.tberin,  near ,,ur winter q„a,te,-»,a  keen,  euttiug,  nerth- 

on  the  sledge  whilst  one  ran  behind,  holding  to  the  stand-,,,. 

« ,th  ha,d  f,.«en  snow,  whilst  the  weather  ,-leared.    The  snn 
I^s  no  r,se    igl,  i„  the  sky  so  early  in  the  spring  in  these  la  i 

1    on,pla,nt.     An.l  a  long  day  we  needed,  for  the  distance 
the.ea,;,.st  Kskin.o  eolony  was  a  stiff  one,  i.  e.,  elose  upln 
"ipnty  m.les,  and  people  we  „inst  road,  thafdav,  as  our 
•Mippcr  depended  „pon  native  hospitality 

It  was  jnst   midnight,  with  a    fain't   twiligh,,  when   we 
;ael,ed  (he  sontheast    .-ape  of  Ilerbe.-t    Isla,r,l,  where  ,  nr 

on  t" ;"?«     '''r  '"'"  "•''^  •■""^■"  <"«-"."'■",  .-."J  the  colony 

M,r  t   ;      T  ''""'""'^'  "'  «'"^"  ""Iv  two  were  oocpiei 

,!  V    ';:"""  ""^  "'  *""  '"""t  famous  bear  hunters  of  the 

h,  „H„?      .f"':  """  """  '"'>  '■'■"•™«1  «■""'  «"-"-"l  weeks' 
I.«n!,ng  south,  at  Oape  York.    The  bears  had  treated  him 


171 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


badl.v  tills  time,  two  of  his  best  tiaiiu'd  doos  having  boon 
killed,  and  ho  hiiihsclf  nearly  sharinj;  the  same  la(«>,  to  which 
his  clawed-ui)  »i'>n,  covered  wltli  fui  raj^x,  bore  witness.  Sur- 
gery is  only  but  little  uuderstood  by  these  people;  on  the 
other  hand,  nature  eonies  to  their  aid  very  powerfully,  healing 
quickly  broken  bones  and  wounds  which  in  other  clinuites 
would  re(|nire  W(Md<s. 

The  [)oov  man  was  now  seated  on  his  couch,  naked,  chant- 
ing mystic  inj-anlations  to  hidden  spirits  in  order  to  accelerate 
the  healing  of  the  wound.  Fortunately  it  was  healing  fast. 
lief(»re  going  to  rest  we  had  an  excellent  supper  of  polar  b(?ar's 
meat,  boiicd  bacon,  and  ship's  bread.  The  tirst  was  frozen, 
and  tasked  like  melon— at  least  that  is  my  own  impression, 
rhougii  it  may  not  be  c.uroborated  by  others.  All  the  night 
through  two  charming  ohl  ladies  were  engaged  in  sewing  me 
a  pair  of  new  seal  ^'kamikker,"  as  the  Eskimos  wouhl  on  no  ac- 
connt  ]»ermit  me  to  start  on  our  long  journey  in  my  old  toj) 
boots,  in  which  the  toes  showed  a.  dangerous  tenden-y  to 
come  through.  For  this  work  I  presented  them  with  a  fork, 
two  prongs  of  which  were  gone,  and  five  and  thirty  matches. 

The  next  morning  there  was  a  thick  fog,  and  as  our  wav 
lay  right  across  th(>  mouth  of  Whale  Wound  to  some  huts  oil 
Its  southern  side,  I  was  at  first  of  opinion  that  we  would  have 
to  await  clearer  weather  before  being  able  to  set  out,  as  no 
compass  course  could  be  shaped  by  the  chart,  which  here,  as 
everywhere  else,  proved  utterly  incorrect,  and  we  might  have 
been  poking  about  at  the  south  side  of  the  sound  if  we  got  a 
bit  astray.  IJut  Kolotengva  only  smiled  quietly  at  my  sug- 
gesti(ms,  and  thought  that  it  was  hard  upon  him  to  be  aco'sed' 
of  not  "knowing  the  way  in  his  own  country,"  even  in  a  fog, 
and  my  conHdence  in  hi.n  as  one  of  natuiv's  children  being  un- 
bounded, we  set  out  forthwith  for  Netchilumi,  the  nex*!  ir- 
habited  spot. 

^  For  many  hours  we  sledged  through  the  thick  fog,  so  thick, 
in  fact,  that  we  could  hai'dly  s-e  the  dogs  in  front  of  us,  but 
in  spite  of  this  Kolotengva  succeeded  in  reaching  our  destina- 
tion in  a  diject  line!    Some  will  at  once  say  that  he  was  led 


i 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  475 

hy  anin.nl  inHn,ut;    but  no,  I  .shall   not  insult  my  Enkinio 
Inrnds  by  .M.do.vsinj.-  that  view.     Nay,  the  huuum  brain  Heenm 
pivtty  luuch  alike  in  the  main  amono  all  wihl  tribeN,  and  the 
man  only  performed  what  his  splendid  practical  geometrical 
faculties  suggested  to  him.     For  the  direction  of  the  wind 
along  these  shores  is  generally  most  remarkably  uniforui,  an<l 
fit  be  a  little  strong,  it  will  cause  the  loo.se,  tine  snow  to  drift 
like  desert  sand.      During  this  action  all  of  tl,(.  tiny  specks  of 
Hii  .w  will  shift  acc(uding  to  the  same  physical  laws,  and  shape 
themselves  during  their  progress  into  various  forms  and  fig- 
ures with  such    regularity  that  long    parallel    streaks    are 
formed  on  the  surface  of  the  snow.     Now,  by  observing  that 
tlie  angle  between  the.se  streaks  and  the  line  of  march  to  b.- 
followed  always  remain  tlh>  same,  there  is  not  much  difficulty 
in  steadily  maintaining  the  same  course;    and  it  was  this 
method  Kolotengva  followed.     D.ning  our  march  across  the 
Greenland  inland  ice  in  1892,  Lieutenant  Pearv  .ind  I  became 
accustomed  in  thick  weather  to  follow  the  same  wind  indica- 
tions,  and  the  traces  of  them  up  in  these  storm  realms  are  far 
more  pronounced  and  characteristic  than  farther  south.    In- 
deed, often  the  surface  of  the  snow  resembles  a  sea  in  violent 
motion  suddenly  arrested  and  turned  into  a  cold,  still  ocean  of 
snow. 

Towards  evening  we  arrived  at  Netchilumi,  wlu>re  we  were 
mos  heartily  welcomed  by  the  settlers,  and  l.>ok  up  our  abode 
in  the  hut  of  the  oldest  brother,  Terrikc.tti.  With  him  we 
spent »au  enjoyable  evening. 

His  good  old  woman  fried  bacon  and  made  tea  for  us  with- 
out wanting  any  particular  instructions,  whilst  Kolotenova 
f-hanted  weird  incantations  in  the  dim  lighl  alTorded  bv  die 
train-oil  lamp,  and  the  master  of  the  hut  and  his  visitors 
listened  to  a  little  impromptu  geography,  aided  bv  a  polar 
the  o,?i  ••^-  ;^'<>^'"-'t  bladder,  wherewith  to'  explain 
the  globular  theory  of  the  earth.  Rut  when  we  came 
to  ti,e  consequences  of  th<^  latter  assertion,  viz.,  that 
people  in  the  two  hemispheres  walk  feet  to  feet,  the  teliching 
came  to  an  end.    Nobody  was  able  to  follow  fhn««  wild  fli-  " 


Ih 


'HS 


m 

Ha 


id 


( tit 


^ts 


ilH 


476 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


of  faii.v.  In  vnlii  I  atMiH)n.sfrato<l  tUv  atln,r(i,„i  „f  il,,.  (.arfh 
wm.  Iho  aid  of  Hn.ppiMj.  obM'.-tH,  ulM'u  Hialdcnly  tlic  half- 
Ki-oun  sou  Nooiucd  to  ratch  a  o|i,„nM.r  of  light.  His  tonirac 
^vaH  loosened,  and  ho  began  to  rattle  awa.y  to  his  <onnt.vn.en 
In  Hieir  ennons,  gnttunil  tongue.  What  he  said  I  was  un- 
«»>!•'  /o  catch,  bnt  at  ( In.  end  of  his  disc.n.rse  every  <,«e  seenn-d 
convMiced  of  the  new   theory. 

^nul^'tUuV"^  I'r  ''^"  ''"''  ^'''••'^•"'  ^"^'"  ^'^'"••'  '•"'•  '•«  ^'^  <'•«' 

n  in  u  H  r  ^'r' '  ''^'''"^  "•"*'""■•>•  «^'''''  ^^'''  •''^'' '-  - 

in  .^^''•^'r-^;'""'^  ^>"  t"^  ^'-nowiHK  .norning.  in  the  n.ean- 
tnne  we  collected  some  minerals,  and  set  fonr  w.nnen  to  sew 
"M  new  breeches  of  yonng,  strong  bearskin.  This  was  a  fresh 
additn»n  to  onr  war,ln,be,  and,  with  the  kan.lkker,  trans- 
formed me  int<.  a  veritable  N<,rth  (Jreenland  "dude."  The  fol- 
lowing morning,  as  stated,  we  were  again  abb"  to  start.  The 
n-<.ather  wan  then  "cra<.king"  ccdd,  with  a  <lear  snn.     To  o„r 

^M     ""'    r''  ''"'"  ^'^'  '''''''  '•^^""^  **'  «^'«''^  >''f«>»-'"<'«l  "s 
at  he  would  accompany  us  as  far  as  ('ape  York,  a  distance 

nts'therr'ir '"''''!  T:'''''''''  '"'"'  ''  '''  »'"^^  "busi- 
ness   there.     II,s  son  had  the  previous  autumn  left  his  "Kay- 
ak   down  there,  and  this  the  old  man  now  intended  to  fetc^h 
before  the  ice  bn.ke  up.    His  Journey,  moreover,  was  prompteli 
by     the     unexpected     opportunity     n(»w     presenting     itself 
<>i    liaving     thii    company    of    a     "Kablunachsuak"    (white 
man),     and     enjoying     the     dainties     tl(nving     therefron,, 
such    as    bacon    rinds    and    other    remnants    of    his    feasts. 
lerrikotti    took    his    wife    with     him,     too,     looking    upon 
the  journey  of  three  hundred   fifty  miles   in    the  depth   of 
winter  as  rather  a  pleasure  or  r.-creation  trip  than  anything 
else.     Fie  had  with  him  seven  splen<lid,  str.mg  dogs,  'which 
careered  magnificently  across  the  ice,  and  thev  weiv   as  is 
generally  the  case  with  these  animals,  so  beautifully  trained 
that  a  shout  only  from  their  master  was  sulticieiit  to  make 
them  run  either  right  or  left,  stop  dead  or  increase  spewed, 
watch  for  seal,"  or  sniff  the  hard  snow  for  bear  tracks.    The 
journey  certainly  became  both  more  interesting  and  lively  for 
this    unexpected    addition  to  our  party.    They  followed  all 


I 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    OREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  477 

iv.lDllina    iiH  1)110  „f  thiMMwIvcM.  . 

In  11,,.  ,■,,,„•«.  or  ll„.  ,l„.v  «.,.  pa»„,.,|  ,,„„„,  „  ,„.„,  ,„„„i    , 
into  VMial,.  S,„„i,|  ,„„|  j,„,„  ,„!,.,   ,    ,  "'     »!. 

r::::;.:,";'  -• ;::- -"■'■. • i-i„;:,;,:;i:. ,: ;  ; ,.' 

""'•'"''"''  ""  "'"" of  alH,u(  a  (I,o„»an,l  f,,.|      \t  ihh 

■,:,';;"  "-."•..a.i,..,. ,.o,„„no,„  „....,  „„ .,o„,„ .., ,;  , 

w    MHl  ,„„to  to  »,-.,pd,  ,„u.  facTS.    But  it  ,li,l  „ot  last  Ion..-  for 

•"•UK«i  aii,,,,,^.  il„.  s„„.batli<.d  Kladers  aud  iieb<.ijrs      Itut 

':■,."'■"""  ?•  '"'"'■'•"'*-'  "■"""«»  -"  *""  "">"""«■  "-no 
.sn„«.,.,,v,...,.<l  „.,.  „tl..M.v  void  of  lif,.,  „.,.  b<.|„.l,l  tl„.  dai-lv  blue 

f  o    T,  *",  "'     ,"'"*-'   "'""•"  ""'  "'"''''   ■■''.™  »ere  reflected 
Ifoni  the  louft  foaill-crested  swell. 

What  eff.Mt  that  si^ht  had  upon  one  who  had  paHsed  six 

"'t,N  and  with  a  badly  suppressed  houie-loiigiim  at  lieart    I 

"M,st  leave  to  the  r..ade,'s  ima«iuatiou.    Me„B„.i:s  „f  the    ,r 

n  »oa.g,rt    a.l„.rland  rush«l  upon  „,e,  an,l  th.vw  n,o  into  a 

.eanij-  ,,,e  aneholv  state,  „„«,  undesirable  for  the  work  in 

and.    As  r  halted  and  sf.od  ga.ing  out  towai'ds  the  blue 

l."™o«.n,.v  followers  in„uired  what  I  was  lookiufj  for   b  t 

onlv  ba. Ily  eould  I  explain  what  I  thought  aud  feltt    nU' 

t      ess     hese  sensitive  people,  ehildron  of  the  lee  and  snlnj, 

qe  gathered  u,y  .ueaninR,  and  the  old  ,uan  exelai,ne,l  sev- 

:::.!  zrz: '"""'""'''  '"""'^"'■""'  ""^•™'"'  "^•™"'"  *- 

the""Zr  1,1.'";T  T™  ""■'  """' '"'"'"''  ^^  <•'"'*'■"><"'  •■"o-'R 
abl  Kitr<       '  """f'""-^*"'"  B"oth  Inlet,  passing  the  remark- 
able I.,t    Clarence  Kock,  a  little  island  risiu.  in  terraces  to  a 


478 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH   POLE; 


height  Of  about  a  thousand  feet.  During  thousands  of  years, 
wet  ice  and  storm  have  gradually  eroded  the  rock,  and  the 
blocks  thrown  down  have  fallen  with  such  regularity  around 
the  whole  island  that  it  rises  above  the  flat  ice  fields  like  an 
enormous  black  cone,  out  of  which  the  solid  central  part  with 
perpendicular  sides  stands  forth. 

Just  below  this  weird-looking  island  we  had  again  to  seek 
the  mainland,  as  the  ice  during  the  equinoctial  gales  a  few 
wee^cs  before  had  broken  up  and  dnfted  into  the  partly  open 
Baffin  s  Bay.  Fortunately,  the  land  here,  whilst  lofty  south 
and  north,  was  comparatively  level,  so  that  we  could  continue 
our  jourm>y  without  difficulty,  although  the  sharp  stones  pro- 
jecting  through  the  snow  here  and  there  ripped  the  sledocs 
unpleasantly.  '^ 

A  little  after  noon  we  came  upon  fresh  reindeer  track  and 
there  must  have  been  quite  a  herd  of  them ;  there  were  spoors 
in  all  directions.  We  had  no  meat  for  supi)er,  nor  any  for  our 
hungry  dogs,  so  it  would  be  a  godsend  to  obtain  an  animal  (.r 
two.  The  natives  were  nearly  mad  with  excitement,  and  pro- 
posed to  set  off  in  pursuit  at  once.  I  let  them  have  a  rifle 
each,  whilst  I  went  to  examine  some  white,  quartz-like  rocks 
in  the  vicinity.  TeiTik(»tti's  wife  was  left  behind  to  look  after 
the  dogs,  which,  in  some  circvuistances,  cannot  be  left  alone, 
as,  when  these  half-tamed  Avolves  get  the  scent  of  game,  noth- 
ing can  slop  them. 

Ten  minutes  had  barely  gone  by  before  I  heard  a  rifle  shot 
close  at  hanti,  and  presently  Kolotengva's  little,  square  figure 
appeared  on  a  ridge,  calling  to  us  to  bring  the  sledges  up.  This 
was  but  the  work  of  a  few  moments,  and  we  beheld  a  great 
reindeer  cow  lying  dead  on  the  snow.  A  meal  followed,  in 
which  four  human  beings  and  fifteen  dogs  participated  with- 
out distinction,  only  that  we  human  beings  seized  the  tit-bits. 
We  saved,  however,  a  fine  piece  of  steak  for  supper,  with  the 
reindeer  belly,  which  the  two  "Arctics"  had  not  the  heart  to 
leave  behind,  for  it  is  their  greatest  <l<'licacy. 

We  did  not  travel  much  farther  that  <lay,  having  sledged 
without  a  break  for  thirteen  hours,  so  we  halted  at  about  sevpu 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT   WHITE    WORLD.  473 

O'clock  on  the  north  side  of  Whalstenholme  SomK),  where  we 
built  a  cosy  little  snow  hut  in  a  suitable,  well-sheltered  drift 
It  vvas  constructed  in  the  usual  Eskimo    fashion,  of  laro-e 
bloc^cs  cut  out  of  the  snowdrift,  put  together  so  as  t(,  fornwi 
solid  cupola  over  the  space  below,  sufficient  to  h<,ld  us  all 
Ihe  dogs  always  sleep  in  the  op(>n,  winter  as  well  as  sunnner, 
and  in  a  1  kinds  of  weather.     They  were,  therefore,  simply  tied 
to  Kolotengva's  walrus  lance,  rammed  into  the  gr.»und  just 
outside    he  hut.     We  will  now  peep  inside,  all  fissures  in  Joof 
.ind  walls  having  been  ch)sed  with  snow,  and  the  lamps  liglu- 
ea.     lo  got  in  it  is  necessary  to  crawl  through  the  little  hole 
on  the  lee    side,  and  when  of  the  (Caucasian  race,  groat  care 
has  to  be  exercised  not  to  wreck  the  proud  strmtniv,  as  the 
opening  is  only  intended  f(,r  tiny  Eskimo  bodies.     Inside  a 
comparatively  high  temperaturo  prevails,  which  causes  the 
«now  in  the  roof  to  melt,  whereby  the  structure  is  strength- 
ened as  the  blocks  then  sink  a  little,  freeze  together,  and  form 
on  the  mside  a  hard,  polished  dome  of  ice.     The  water  thus 
formed  by  degrees  trickles  slowly  down  the  walls  of  the  hut 
towards  the  floor,  forming  the  most  beautiful  glitterino-  ice- 
taps.     However,  at  night,  when  cooking  is  over,  the  meltino. 
ceases,  as  the  lamps  then  only  burn  with  a  faint  tlame 

But  as  we  enter,  the  cooking  is  in  full  swing,  and  under  the 
little  stone  vessels  the  Han.es  are  made  as  long  as  the  saucer- 
shaped  lamps  with  moss  wicks  and  blublu.r  will  alh.w  On 
the  raised  platform  at  the  back  of  tlu^  hut  I  and  Koloten.^va 
are  installe<l,  whilst  opposite  reside  tlH>  old  man  and  his  wom- 
an. All  of  us  are  airily  dressed,  as  it  would  of  course  be  ab- 
surd to  sleep  in  the  stiff,  W(4  garments  when  theiv  is  an 
opportunity  of  tJirowing  them  off  and  crawling  into  soft,  warm 
reindeer  skins  instead. 

The  old  woman  mostly  sees  to  the  cooking,  and  in  order 
to  ascertain  whether  the  water  for  the  tea  is  getting  warm 
she  now  and  again  puts  her  hand  tiat  into  it,  a   manner  of 
taking    boiling  temperature  which  I  at  first  have  gival  diffl- 
cultv  in  rc^conciliiio-  lin-u^.w  f.»  u,.^  i...  ,.t.:\-       i  •     -\ 

.,     •     .  "   "      ■ '">  ^*"f  ^>  piin<»soj)hicaiiv  arguiii" 

the  point  with  myself,  1  come  to  the  conclusion  that  it  is  uu 


■ 


. 


480 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


worse  tliau  the  handliiio  of  the  meat  we  are  to  eat,  and  I 
reconcile  myself  to  my  fate. 

The  next  morning  the  weather  continued  gloriously  tine, 
and  at  half-past  seven  we  Avere  again  off.     Our  road  ndw  lav 
right    acr(»ss  the  broad   Whalstenholme    Sound.     Saunders' 
Island,  situated  about   midway,  we  had  intended  to  pass  lo 
the  west,  as  this  route  was  the  shortest;   but  on  reachin-  the 
western  point  of  the  island  we  were  arrested  by  open  u^it(M- 
and  had  to  proceed  eastward  in  order  to  reach  the  inner  side' 
We  did,  however,  n(.t  omit  first  to  try  the  new  steel-like  ice 
just  below  the  lofty  mountain  walls  rising  to  a  height  of  over 
two  thousand  feet,  in  order  perhaps  to  save  the  lono-  detour 
but  it  was  not  good.    The  ice  was  too  weak,  and  I  cannot  hel,'> 
confessing  that  I  breathed  more  freely  after  the  discoverv  -is 
my  recent  experiences  on  new  ice  were  anything  but  pleasant 
I  may  as  well  tell  the  story  as  we  travel. 

It  was  in  the  first  half  of  February,  Just  as  the  cold  was 
severest,  that  I  was  traveling  far  to  the  north  of  our  winter 
quarters  for  the  i)urpose  of  obtaining  meat  for  our  many  do«s 
which    were  half  starved.     I   had   for  companion   a   native' 
Kaschu  by  name,  a  lively,  amusing  fellow;  but  I  must  add  lu' 
he  was  a  thief  and  a  liar  of  the  first  water  to  boot,  under  cer- 
tain  "extenuating  circumstances."     Here,    ,ut  campaioniug 
he  was  a  si)lendid  fellow  indeed.     We  had  left  th(«  nearest 
colony  at  five  in  the  morning,  in  brilliant  moonshine,  and  had 
for  hours,  with  twelve  dogs,  been  speeding  out  towards  the 
broad  Smith's  Sound,  in  order  to  reach  new  ice,  where  the 
walrus  love  to  romp  in  winter    time.     When  about    twentv 
lUiles  distant  from  the  coast,  we  halted,  tied  the  dogs  to  hum- 
mocks, and  proceeded  on  foot  a  couple  of  miles  farther  out, 
watching  for  walruses,  as  these  animals  are  in  the  habit  of 
thrusting  their  big  heads  through  the  thin  ice  in  order  to 
breathe,  and  it  is  then  that  the  Eskimo  watches  his  oj)portu- 
nity  of  launching  his  harpoon  into  their  bodies,  keeping  them 
tied  with  the  line  till  the  animals  are  exhausted.    A  little  after 
noon  we  succeeded  in  killing  an  enormous  she-walrus,  a  task, 
however,  comparatively  easy,  as  we  had  both  harpoon  and 


Masonic  Apron  Carried  North  by  the  Author 


(So,.  ClmpterXLVl.) 


■Ilmnmhi 


An  Historic  Flag,  Gavel  and  Candle. 
(SroCliai.ter  M.VI.i 


OR,   LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  4gi 

rifle,  and  whilst  Kasclm  was  luttinir  it  „„  I  .    ^ 

"ledge   and    doirs      4,  .,      ,.lr       '^        '  '  "^'^^  *"  '"*"''  'he 

towards  him     Lw  hh,   .  *-'    "'''''  "-  ''P'"^    ««'"ards 

after  n,.„ras  nni  U7a  ,""^'  "'""•"*"'  "  "'"  "■"•^-  J"»' 
streak  in  the  J,  T,  n  I  f  ";"'^'  '"'  '"'  ""*'  ""1^  »  '"i-t 
was.    8udl™i7     il       T^^-^T  ""-  '""t'-'-'K-J-for  sun 

.silently  ont  1  tli  1*-  *  f '"  "'  ""'  »""'«'^  "»  '^  «1>«"1 
new  i,e        .,  '''  '•'"''■'■"''"■■c'l  mirfaee  „f  elastic 

steer,  I  ri„ ,  '  .      "'  '""'■'";""'  """  '"  "'"  «'««"""«  «•<■  1 
turn  ;       fsi;:    w:;.';;:'f /'•'.''■•■"  "'■'-'•"  '»  the  lot,  an,l  al. 

front  part  a4  „    et  Ll  "'7'«""'K  "aiul,  whereby  the 

■•ible  f  Rht    m     fe  ;     V  I'"  "'""■''  """  "'™  "'"g'"'  "  ter- 

t<Uhe,r,.rdei;"r'''"'^^f '*'''«'  ""•"•"*''  *"'  »•«'« 
now,  the  .een'I^dn,  s^t^^rel  :;\;:'::;i'«r'"?'  '"  P"" 
""-tandin,  ,„rte  well  that  it  w     a  st    ,:.";;;  '"'::'  ""■ 

a«aiu  t.,  ,„.  inMner.s      ii;:.Vw:  ;;''?';■'„  ™'  '""  ""'-^ 
"l>"n  the  honors  of  th,.  J    ,'  "'"'"  "'"  enlarge 

to  the  arn,|,ifs  un.ler  a  te  npera         '  f  4n  "■"^  ""aked 

f--i..g  point,  and  no, and  i„'s«'       ,  "  .l  I'f  ""■'  ""■  "'■'"- 

eoate,l  w  th  ..      „f,  ';',":;":r'  «■"■'•"  an^ad.,   hegan  t.f  be 

'"te  dogs  did         ir  d     vT    tl',''"«      '""■'"  "'"  """"■  "'  '"-• 
boars  we  were  safd       ■,.   •  '1'  """""i«bt,  and  in  fonr 

'bo  natives.     A^l    ■..;,';;"  """  '"  "'"  """"  ""'■"'  "'-^^  "f 
Hion,  but  forget      rn.;;.;;,: "■<■  '^™'  "'y  -•'"'  bnn,or. 


^^'«'  !>a(l,  it  may  bo 


u:reat  dotour  eastwards  t 


'cnicmbcrcMl,  boon 


<M)iiipolIod  to  mak"^ 


I 


|: 


II 

)  ,1 


>  8«'t  past  Sauiiders'  Island  on  the 


482 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


inside  and  as  we  passed  the  east  side  of  the  island  we  came 
upon  the  tracks  of  three  bears,  two  old  ones  and  a  young  one^ 
It  IS  hardly  possible  to  form  an  idea  of  the  excitement  pro- 
duced upon  the  Eskimos-all  ardent  hunters-and  their  semi- 
savage  dcvgs  under  such  circumstances.  The  dogs  pull  vio- 
ently  at  their  leather  traces  and  scan  with  raised^ars  keenly 
the  snowy  wastes,  whilst  their  masters  stop,  converse  in  vvhis^ 

reDea  ''/L°'  "T,  *''  T'*'''  '""  ''  '^"'^'  ^^"^^  '^''^^  ^^^  then 
XfLl  "  performance  anew.     It  might  be  doubte<l 

mon  r  'T  r^^  '°  absolutely  lose  their  coolness  on  comiug 

tin  1     .      ^■''    ^"^*  '"  ^""  dispelled.     The  excitement,  in  fact, 
tends^  to  stimulate  their  intellectual  faculties  and  kk^nness 
and  UK-  spectator  is  soon  compelled  to  admire  their  qualifica- 
tions as  hunters  and  sportsmen  of  a  very  high  order     In  the 
present  case,  however,  the  hunt  was  fruitless.     We  followed 
three  bear  tracks  right  and  left  across  the  wide,  dreary  "ex- 
panse of  ice  until  the  sun's  disk,  huge  and  glowing,  touched 
tlie  snow-white  horizon  to  the  northwest,  disappearing  pres- 
ently behind  distant  icebergs.     lu  vain  the  natives  scanned 
the  vast  white  expanse  with  my  glasses,  the  remarkable  quali- 
ties  of  which  they  soon  learnt  to  admire,  but  no  sign  of  a 
iving  thing  in  any  direction.     We  ha,l,  therefore,  to  abandon 
tne  quest  and  resume  our  journey  along  the  coast  south  of 
the  mouth  of  the  fiord.    A  little  later,  we  passed  ('a,,e  Atholl 
where  the  ice  began;  being  snow  free,  we  could  advance  much' 
faster,  and  at  midnight,  after  sixteen  hours  of  incessant  trav- 
eling, we  halted  at  a  spot  called  Igluduhugni.     Durin.v  our 
entire  journey  the  dogs  had  gone  at  a  great  pace,  the'bear 
J-hase  included,  and  the  distance  covered  that  dav  (sixteen 
hours)  was  equal  to  about  a  degree  of  latitude,  or  nc*  less  than 
seventy  miles. 

We  had  expected  to  find  nat'ves  at  this  place,  but  all  we 
we  could  discover  in  the  gloom  of  midnight  was  a  long-desert- 
ed, tumbledown  snow  hut.  Koloteugva  and  I  at  once  set  to 
work  to  repair  the  hut,  whilst  tl-.c  old  man  and  his  woman 
began  to  dig  in  the  snow  under  a  huge  traveled  boulder,  main- 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  483 

taining  that  tUey  ,v„„l,l,  ac-,x,r,lmgt«  a„  „Id  obaritable  Eski- 
general.    loug  and  deep  ti.e.v  dug,  and  blubber  there  na» 

■  Tt    ^!;  '^"^  "■"'"""  I"'''r'a''«I  ether  f„r  our  lanins 

putting  them  on  the  lamp  saucers.     I„  „  „i,„rt  while  we  were 
nugly  en.,co„e«l  under  our  snow  roof,  consuming  the   e„rn! 

the  events  of  the  day.    And,  i,„l,.ed,  we  were  on  the  point  of 

f^    he!,  t'""'  "■'■  ^""P""  """  "'''""■  -  j™t  before  we 

base  ie  ?","%"':  '™^"^'""  '"'  "^"""*^  """  --'"■Kab.e 
chase  after  a  couple  of  Arctic  iieynards,  which  only  got  away 

much  o?  :°  r  "r'r  T'"'    '''""  """'^'  "«"''  '""""^'^'^  "- 
much  of  an  English  fox  hunt,  with  the  exception  'hat  we 

ebased  the  foxes  on  sledges  instead  of  on  hor.s..back-  Z  for 

excitement  and  novelty  I  must  accord  the  palm  to  the  la,  e 

mode  of  hunting  these  vile  animals.     In  th  "  faint  ra™  of'he 

Arctic  midnight  sun  these  little  foxes  often  tran.pTn"  d.s! 

tances  across  the  silent,  icy  expanse,  in  search  of  the  remnants 

of  feasts  by  polar  bears,  <lead  seal  cub,s,  an.I  the  like.     It  was 

wo  such  midnight  prowlers  we  had  come  upon.    Hardly  had 

the  dogs  spotted  the  two  black  little  dots  away  in  front'of  us 

-for  they  were  so-called  "blue"  foxes-before  they  set  off  at 

such  a  terriflc  pace  that  we  were  .just  able  to  fling  „lXes 

on  the  sledges  an.I  enjoy  the  ,-hase  too.    Awav  galloped    lie 

foxes;  after  them  raced  the  dog.s.    But  we  did  not  g n Lh 

npon  the  vile  beggars,  as,  of  ..ourse,  the  sledges  handi  ap^  d 

he  dogs  so  much  that  one  fV>x  »u,-ceeded  in  at  once  escap  n  " 

Having  astutely  enough  made  for  the  shore.    The  other  how' 

ever,  «^s  just  in  front  of  us,  but  s-n-med  to  be  gett  n'  a«"a^. 

What,  then   do  my  worthy  sporting  frien,l»,  wl,:   n  the  mo  t' 

intense  exciten».nt  have  been  watching  the  une.pia     .hT   ' 

and  who  n<,w  begin  to  see  a  doubtful  issue,  ,lo-'    (.uicl-  ■,, 

^.ought  Kolotengva  sei.es  his  knife,  bends  fo'rwanl,  ut 

It  Vntt>  ™';'"  f "'%"";  •.'"""  °'  *""  '-'-• "' ""-  -"i- 

j-rfi»,  a  Aine  iudy  dog.     Aud,  iu 


i! 


1 


mstaut,  hi.s  coiupaui 


on 


484 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


follcws  Ins  example.     Like  arrows  shot  from  a  bow  the  two 
animals  dart  forward.     But  one  dog  appears  to  j,ain  over  the 
other  and  this  does  not  please  o„r  companion  at  all,  s  "  n  e k 
as  h,jhtn.n,,  he  dispat<-hes  another  gray  tonzler  fron.  hi    tean' 
jvh.eh  IS  immediately  followed  by  another  from  our  side.  Now 
o low  eneonraging  shouts  to  the  dogs  from  both  contesting 
pait les,  exactly  as  in  a  north  country  coursing  match,  and  a 
laughing,  rattling,  shrieking  dispute  between  the  two  sledges 
as  to  the  merits  and  chances  of  their  respective  animals.     My 
dog  won  the  match  in  securing  the  little  terrified  blue  fox; 
bur,  alas!  artful  as  ever,  Reynard,  at  the  moment  of  victory 
jumped  for  dear  life  on  to  the  top  of  a  high,  flat  iceberg,  where 
our  dogs  were  unable  to  follow  and  our  guns  to  reach  it,  as 
fhe  fox  lay  down  flat.    And  thus  ended  an  exciting  fox  hunt 
and  coursing  match  a  la  Eskimo. 

The  next  day  the  weather  was  still  magnificent,  and  at 
midday  the  sun  became  so  warm  that  here  and  there  a  solitary 
seal  was  enticed  to  come  up  to  his  breathing  hole  in  the  ice 
in  order  to  bask  in  the  rays  of  the  sun. 

It  was  midnight  again  before  we  reached  Cape  York  the 
last  inhabited  spot  in  our  journey;  again  we  had  traveled  in- 
cessantly for  sixteen  hours,  and  covered  a  distance  of  fifty 
miles  since  daybreak.     At  this  time  on:y  a  few  stars  of  the 
first  magnitude  glittered  in  the  southern  heavens,  and  we  wel- 
comed the  lovely  light  nights  of  the  Arctic  summer.     But  I 
will  at  once  confess  that  we  were  in  no  mood  for  such  charm- 
ing and  idyllic  reflectirr^s  when  we  drove  on  that  night  before 
the  stone  huts  at  Imnaminomen.    The  glass  stood  at  24  de- 
grees F.  below  zero  {m  degrees  of  frost),  and,  being  famishing 
like  wolves,  we  felt  the  cutting  night  wind  and  the  cold  the 
more.     But  the  natives  at  this  place  received  us  with  cus- 
tomary Eskimo  hospitality.     Sleep  and  rest  were  what  we 
most  needed,  and  after  a  solid  meal  for  ourselves  and  the  dogs, 
we  fell  immediately  asleep,  only  to  awake  when  the  sun  had 
risen  far  into  the  heavens. 

Two  days  (April  13  and  14)  we  remained  at  the  colony  to 
give  our  dogs  a  good  rest  and  to  await  a  change  in  the  weather, 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  «5 

Nor.;     "o  Z  1„„„ T       ""^   n  '""""•™"  '■'"•"""«•  ""  ♦'"• 

Kauan,  i„te,.o,t.„,,  ,„.,,u.,«,  „:: ;;:: ,  ;,.r  ■  ,1::::  :';;;;';• 

nos    remarkable  influeuee  „n  their  Hstene.s,  wl,«  f'    ,     nt,! 

'rreetal'j.!"' '"""""""""  '''"""^  '"  "■™""-«  """  "«''"''- 
At  last,  early  on  the  morning  of  April  15,  we  wore  .hie  t„ 
eon  muo  our  journev  eastward.  Kolo  eugva  andlwel  Iw 
a«a.„  alone,  the  old  couple  who  had  a.  cl.p  n L  Ts  on  1 1  e 
previous  days  having  remained  at  Cape  York  tl^^'  ,  1,  the  r 
vilirB^-y  wl'lrn;  "l^^  "■•-'^"'^  forthe'tlaldirM:.. 

..oref^i'Cr  4:r  ir pf ::irzr  :,irtT"" 

been  of  opinion  existed  a  Ion-  ^h^n     ^  ''^''^  ""'^'"-^'^ 

--sit^a  .uoL^  the  nurtheasiern  shores  of  Mel- 


486 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


V  lie  Ba>  Tndood  I  foun,l  that  pracli.ally  the  whole  c«a«t 
line  ivo.n  <  ape  ^  <„.k  eastwards,  an  far  as  the  eje  eould  reacli 
was  ciH.tiunali.v  broken  by  vast  and  active  glari.TH  \  six 
p.  in  we  hal;e(l,  having  covered  fifty  miles,  and  built  our  snow 
hu  for  f he  n.oht  We  were  then  nearly  directly  south  ol  Cape 
Mehille,  and  <»nly  a  few  miles  from  the  shore.     The  ice  on 

r.  nlV".  '''''^■'^'  '^""'^^  '""'  ^'''  I'«^'^  "^  ""r  J'mn.ey  from 

ape  lork  was  very  smooth  and  quite  different  from  what  1 

'-1  expected.     With  the  exeeption  of  a  belt  of  ice  about  two 

miles  broad,  the  surface  of  which  foruuMl  a  chaos  of  irregu 

arly.edM.Ml  and  wildly  piled-up  blocks,  rising  to  a  height  c,f 

i'om  six  feet  to  eight  feet,  the  rest  of  our  roml  was  pe.Ve  tly 

evcl  ami  suH.oth.    This  I  may,  perhaps,  ascribe  to  Kololeng! 

\a  s  intimate  knowledge  of  ice  navigaticm. 

Having  eirjoyed  a  refreshing  night's  rest  in  the  hut,  we 
^•ont.nued,  the  folh.u  ing  day,  our  journey  in  tine  but  hazv 
weather.     About  midday  land  was  clearlv  disce/nible  to  th. 
n<.rtheast,  but  in  the  afternoon  everything  was  again  hidden 
in  a  thick  fog.     We  halted  at  five  p.  m.,  having  covered  forty 
miles     It  then  sn,)wed  hard.     Again  we  had  a  good  night's 
rest,  but  found  the  next  morning  that  several  inches  of  new 
«now  had  fallen,  whilst  the  fog  was  as  thick  as  ever  and  com- 
pletely  hid  the  land.     Rut  at  noon,  when  everything  seemed 
most  dreary  and  hoj)eless,  the  fog  suddenly  lifted,  like  an  enor- 
mous curtain,  ami  displayed  to  our  astonished  gaze  a  pano- 
rama so  grand  and  imposing  that  it  will  never  fade  from  my 
mind.     I.ofty,  somber    mountains,  gigantic,  snowy    glaciers, 
and  aerial  blue  glittering  snow  cones,  all  charmingly  bathed 
in  the  i)urple  rays  of  the  noonday  sun,  stretched  in  wild  disor- 
der along  the  horizon,  the  tout  ensemble  forming  a  most 
striking  and  fascinating  spectacle  of  a  land  never  trodden  by 
human  being. 

By  continuing  our  east-southeast  course,  which  we  had  fol- 
lowed since  morning,  we  reached,  at  about  six  p.  m..  a  small, 
isolated  island,  where  I  decided  to  remain  for  a  <lay  or  two  in 
order  to  take  observations.  The  island  proved  to  be  identical 
with  Thorn  Island  of  the  chart,  having  in  its  center  a  eonically 


OB,    UPE   IN    THE    ORBAT    WHITE    WORLD.  «, 

Himped  ro.k  f,.,„„  |l„«.|n„„l,., f.,,,.- hu,„l„.,l  feet  in  hHsht 

Nil..  ..t  ?,  "i*niiill.\.     I  „l,t,„i„.,|  ,,„  „i,»,.,viiMi.ii  of  til,. 

'::::i<:^S'\:::^::^:srr''-r''' "' ''^^' 

*'   "    -^•'  ■""!  Il"'  "npipas.s  niiiati.in  wr  W.     I  ,l,.li,„..,,,.,i 

»o  h,.  ,.,.„„„.  of  ,„ „h...  ,.o„.s,  ,i,„,  !,„-,,„„,, .:    • ;' 

from  ■       ,t      ,  '  "  ^-^  '"'"*  «I'"il.  «hi,h  „ow  .v.U.ved 

'7""" '«'-'".  "-H.V i,;,if  ;l  J  r ;  ;;;';."".":;;;;•:;,?:„"" 

8la,|..r f,.,nls.    I, to  ,l,„ ,.|.  i„,»  ,„.,,. ,,f,„  ,    ';,  ,,       ,"  ""T; 
ovoriook  f,,„„  tl„.  isl,„„l,  „„  ,.,|,!,,l  „„.  .Ml, .  .  ,  ;,  .'"        ■ 

-■"-'  l.-tw«.„  cap.  Molvill,.  an,l  Cap,:     ,k.^ ',"":,"• 
<;»""""'.«  ice  «„e,  tiu.  „o,,L,.„,  wall  „  whi      ,','  s  m  " 

discern    sontl.    nf   k»«j    n      i         ,         " "" "  '  "«i!s  just    !)le  to 

fi..,\  *    -''Khborho.Ml  (,f  n.e  "Devil's  Tlunnh'" 

tlie  whole  number  of  tbc.e  i.e  sH-eams  co-er.  nl  ' 

"       *''"^'^  to.erb  an  area  oi  some 


488 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


;^'"  *•""'•''* '•'•'•^-     ''^''<'.v  f<>''".  a  niaKnlfK.ont  ovorflow  for 

ho  lee  rnasHos  inland,  and  a.v,  tlu.vn.ro,  of  the  l,ij;|.ost  in.po,- 
lam..     T  a.  «  ao.ers  <,f  Mdvill.  Hay  f.u-n,  wilhout  <loubl,  ilu. 

MoHt  of  th<.s,.  j-laruTs  aiv  Hitualc-d  doso  to  each  other;  indeed 
;.H  .v,.M.ds  some  of  (ho  larger,  as,  for  instanee,  those  of  Kin.: 
nscar,  I  oarv,  IJink,  Nausen  and  Nor<lenskkiold,  the  hmd  div" 
Nions  anions  (hen.   an-  so  insi^nitieant   that   they   niiirhl  be 
»vail.v  eons.dercMl  two  i.n};^.  ^Uww,^  of  enonuous  di^u.-nsions 

As  regards  the  ge.dooieal  ehan.-ter  <,f  tlu"  coasl  land  iis<.lf, 
uh.eh  here  and  then,  juts  forth  from  I  he  ohM-i,!  ,,,„  n.l.er 
;«s  <l«..mnant  headland  an,l  ness  or  single  "nnnatak"  farllu^r 
•"'and,  I  oo.ild  diseover  nothin-  of  particuhir  interest.    The 
<';'P  'onnation,  with  its  dark  eoh,r,  in  stnmj.-  contrast  to  the 
white  snow  enpoh.s  which  crowned  its  ph.teau-shaped  sur- 
faces, was  appan.ntl.v  the  most  comnKui,  whifst  the  coast  in 
j?<'n..ral  was  of  th(>  ns,ml  archaic  structure.     The  perpendicu- 
lar walls  nearest  the  ocean  ice  attaine<l  j-enerailv  a  heio-ht  of 
about  two  thousand  feet,  whilst  the 'Mlinterland,'"  where  such 
•'xisted,  rose  to  far  greater  heights;  thus  the  snowy  summit  of 
(  ape  W  alker  has  a  height  of  (piite  three  thousand  feet,  whilst 
a  glittering  cone,  to  which  I  gaye  the  name  of  "Mount  llalV- 
ner,"  after  the  Norwegian  savant,  and  which  is  situated  about 
fifteen  miles  inland  on  the  north  side  of  the  bav,  is,  without 
doubt,  five  thousand  feet  in  height.     At  Cape  Melville  there 
was  a  comparatively  vast  stretch  of  low  land,  but  its  nature 
I  was  unable  to  make  out  at  this  distance. 

Having  concluded  my  observations  on  the  island,  I  bnilt  a 
small  cairn  on  the  toj),  in  whi«-li  I  placed  a  tin  box  containing 
a  brief  notice  of  our  visit.  Before  turning  in  that  night  we 
were  pleasantly  surprised  by  the  sight  of  a  snow  sparrow,  the 
first  of  the  season,  which  occasioned  us  several  times  during 
supper  (a  dai.  ly  meal  of  fresh  seal's  liver  and  dry  ship's  bread) 
to  congratulate  each  other  on  the  coming  of  summer. 

The  next  morning  we  found  the  weather  had  completely 
changed  in  the  course  of  the  night;  it  was  blowing  a  gale  from 
the  southeast,  tilling  the  air  with  the  finest  drifting  snow.    We 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD.  m 

had,  M„.,vf„r,s  to  lie  walh-.r-l,,,,,,,,!  ,hal  ,l„.v,  ,vi,i,.l,  ,„i«ht  ■ 
l<>  nan,.|y  lol.l  fairs  of  i,„. ,»  f,,„„  ,,!„  „„.„  y,,     ,^.,,._,|_  .^^ 

"■  '"T  "":"''"«  ■"" '■  "I"""- I  !'"•  a,l,uin,l,l,.  ,o„,,l,. 

<■»«,»(,.,.„«. I,  a,„l  ,oa,,,K,.  of  ,l,i«  li,n,.  ra.-,.  of  l,„,„ani,v  i„ 

a  M,(  ,.  poui-  la  V,,..    An,on«:  olhw  tl,in^.„  I  «a«  t„l,|  ,|,at',|,.. 

boar  humors  of  ,l,o  un„.  „ff,.n  in  .hoi,.  ,.x-,.„r»iou»  ,va,h  ,he 

east  coast  of  MohMlo  Hay.     ,  a,„ „ovo,-,  of  ,h,.  ,',pi, ,  „ 'a, 

'' '."!'«  7 "■"'«  '>'>y  i"l>alM,an,s  of  ,ho  .,o,.,h,.,-,„„„s, 

>ai„»l,  ,.olo„.v,  Tosshisak,  will  bo  s„,.,„is,.,l  by  a  visi,,  ,ho  lirs, 

"""",■"'  f'"'"   ""■  •■' Ki"«:  «ihl  ■„(.„  of  Cap,.  Yo,.k.     I  have 

v"ln',o      ""'"'  '""  '""■"'"'"'■"  "'"'  "'"li-n'ti'.as  for  suol,  a 

Till.  i,o.-(t  day,  .\p,i|  20,  ,!,<.  wind  was  still  stronR  from  the 

sou  h.     Wo  w,..-o  now  aj-ain  noaily  on,  of  n„.at  and  blubbo,-, 

»"  that  n-,.  (lid  not  ,-a.v  ,o  v<.nt far  awav  fr.nn  Cai.,.  York 

«l,i,l,  wo  had  otln.rwiso  infon.h.d  ha<l  th,.  woalhor  boon  bot- 
t.'r.     .\f(or  boiuf.  woath,.r.|)onn,l  for  u  day  w,.  s(,.orod  for  tho 

norllioast,  a st  unknown,  cornor  of  Molvillo  Bay,  whorp  I 

l.opod  lo  Hnd  s,.nu.|hin(.  of  in„.ro«t,  and  wl„.ro  also  y.,,  mi„ht 
slay  a  boar,  which  wo  srcady  no(.dod.  Wo  start<.,l  at  seven 
o  clock  a.  ni.,  and  shap(.d  our  course  straight  for  the  lofty 
"'""main  ridKo  which,  according  ,o  ,l,e  vaKuo  indications  „> 
Hie  chart,  should  be  Cap,.  Mnr,loch.  lint  as  w,.  appronch,.,l 
;v,.  found  that  (his  ,ow,.,.inf;  rhlj-o  di,l  not  .on.siimi  ■  anv  ,  , 
je.-,M,«  p,u„t  ,„  the  ,.oas,  line,  but,  on  the  c,n„rarv,  ros,.  far 

i"" ','";  "\  'If  "•""  '""y  "  «""t'"'.v  "nnnatak"  in  th;  vast  ic,' 
hel,l,  tl„.  lofty  p,.rp,.n,li,.ular  fa,.e  of  whi.h  ,.on,pl,.„.|v  arcs,".! 
our  proj-r,.ss.     We  halte.l  at  half  past  one  by  a  small  ishn. 

'"","","■'•  «■'''■ "' «i"-i' ■■ -t ci„.,i the i,',. wall,  „,;.": 

ve  l,a,l  ,o  r,.n,ain  for  th,.  r,.sl  of  ,|„.  ,|ay  an,l  ,h..  „  .,!     ,  ."l 
Iv<dot,.nKva  at  ,m,.,.  b,.oan  tl ,.e,.tio„  „f  ,he  in,lispcn"r  11  o 

now  hut,  wl,il.,t  1  ,.lin,bo,l  ,he  island,  a  few  hnn,lr,.|  .fi 
be.«ht,  „,  o,-,l,.r  („  tak,.  ,d,s,.rvatio„s.  Bv  an,l  bv  he  ,", 
c|.ne  np,  an.xious  ,o  see  this  forlorn  corner  ,;f, he  Ua  ,  h'it  er 
n,e  hvely  sl,.,lf;e  parties,  of  his  tribe  had  never  v,.t  peuetr.tr 
But  even  to  the  tvi'-al  >,  i-,  i  i  i^  ,  .  ■"  .>,  i.  peuerrateu. 
the  fn.i,a!-mmded  Eskimo  at  my  side  the  desolate 


I     : 


?! 


490 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


spo   could  ofier  no  attraction;  he  only  shook  his  head  and  said 
with  emphatic  conviction:     "Puyungi-toksua  nuna  manni!" 
the  land  about  here  is  no  good").     On  the  hard,  rocky  .round 
L  "tff  ""!  -«^drifts,  carried  thither  by  ragin^winds 

fi<n,th(^  nearest  glaciers,  whilst  here  and  there,  wirere  the 
i.aked  roek  terraces  were  visible  through  the  snow,  the  "scour- 

n^  marks  of  former  glacial  action  were  distinctly  observable 
Having  concluded  my  observations,  we  collected  all  the  stones 
^e  were  able  to  find  and  raised  a  small  cairn  on  the  summit 

hen  we  returned  to  the  hut.    But  a  few  yards  from  it,    ight' 

the  snow,  a  bear  having  evidently  been  engaged  in  digging  for 
soa-ho  e«.  The  same  animal,  or  another,  had^uriousiren^ugh 
visited  the  summit  of  the  island,  to  which  even  we  had  a  diffi- 
|-nlty  m  climbing.  Kolotengva  thought  the  bear  had  come  on 
and  in  search  of  dead  grass  or  moss,  as  polar  bears  are  be- 
lieved by  the  natives  to  like  a  certain  amount  of  vegetable  mat- 
ter in  their  diet. 

The  next  morning  at  seven  we  continued  our  journey  in 
(•aim,  hazy  weather.     We  had  barely  traveled  two  hours  be- 
.ore,  (,n  turning  a  headland,  we  suddenly  espied  the  bear  some 
eight  hundred  yards  in  front  of  us.     At  racing  pace  the  dogs 
sped  away  across  the  '.'  rd  snow,  but  the  bear  did  not  take 
long  to  consider  his  position  and  then  to  deal  with  it      lie  de- 
<Kled  not  to  deal  with  the  dilemma  at  all,  and  simply  bolted 
J.ut  we  were  down  upon  .!;im,    ,  lieu  Kolotengva  quickly  cut 
the  single  trace  of  the  eight  dogs,  the  sledge  stoppe<l  <l(uid,  and 
the  liberated  dogs  flew  with  redoubled  energv  at  the  hairy 
giant,  who  now  turned  to  defend  himself  at  last.     During  the 
short  space  of  time  occupied  by  us  in  coming  up  with  tlie^'com- 
batants,  I  liad  a  good  (opportunity  of  watching  the  splendid 
tactics  of  the  dogs.     As  soon  aa  they  came  up  with  the  bear 
lliey  spread  out  in  a  semicirch^  right  in  front  of  their  foe,  and 
attacked  him  by  making  dashes  at  Ids  long,  thick  coat  with 
their  sliari),  glistening  teeth,  and  they  displayed  during  these 
proceedings  such  cuteness  and  skill  that  it  was  evident  they 
quite  understood  that  it  was  a  question  of  "breakfast  or  no 


OR.   UPE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  491 

breakfast"  for  them.  Whenever  the  bear  angrily  raised  one 
of  his  huge  paws  to  crush  one  of  his  tormentors,  the  latter  slid 
away  m  the  most  agile  manner,  whilst  his  companions  gave 
he  wretched  brute  enough  to  attend  to  in  another  direction, 
c  m  hT  '  "■       ,      ""  '" "'■  ''^'""'"•■xt"'"  soon  ended  the 

.ZJ:A      "",  T  """■  "■"  ■""'  '"^  ""•*-'"'  "■og-'iflcent  bear- 
skm  safely  packed  on  the  sledge,  together  with  a  good  quan- 

meal  Vr;  ;,"'/'"  ""^^  ""'"  ''^""^O  *"  «  substantial 

ued  ;„"  •'■  '""""'  "■"""■'"  """"y'  ""<!  ^™  »K»i°  ™ntin- 

uea  our  journey. 

w^?"""  T""*'  ""'''  ^'^^  "''^^^'^^  ^*"'  ^^"  ^«l^"d  «<>me  ten  miles 
we^t-southwest  fron.  on.  las.  da,',  haltin,  place.     We  reached 

ZZl    \  '^"    ^''^'"^"   ^"^^    ^^>"^^    determinatioi  .  the 

Zn  wp  ''"'^.  T  ^''"'"'  '^^^'  ^"^^  ^^S^»'"-  I"  t^«  after- 
the  nil,  rT  '  '"^  ''""^'''^  eventnally  at  half  past  five  for 
the  night,  after  a  most  interesting,  but  verv  hard  day 

On  April  23  we  reached  again,  safe  and  sound.  Cape  York 
and  our  friendly  Eskimos.  I  decided  to  remain  two  days  and 
let  the  dogs  have  a  good  rest,  not  because  thoy  actually  wanted 
1  ,  but  because  I  thought  they  thoroughly  deserved  it  after 
their  preceding  eight  days'  hard  and  steadv  work.  The  next 
^lay  was  beautifully  ^ne,  and  almost  summerlike,  so  that  the 
en  ire  colony,  small  and  large,  turned  out  en  masse  and  squat- 

n!  n      1     .''f '  ^"''"°^  •"  ''''  ^""'«  ^'^^'«'  "°  ^  ««^-ll  <^ear- 
ng  in  front  of  the  huts  where  boues  and  offal  used  to  be 

thrown,  rrue,  the  air  was  a  bit  chilly,  but  having  built  a  wall 
of  snow  to  shelter  fr.>m  the  cutting  north  wind,  and  with  the 
sun  shining  right  upon  our  ruddy  faces,  and  being  well 
trapped  up  in  furs,  we  had  a  fine  time  of  it,  chatting  inerrily 
about  tlK^  coming  spring,  for  which  we  all  loaged  so  much 

In    he  m.ast  of  our  merry  group  lay  a  huge  piece  of  walnis 

neat,  the  somewhat  "gamey"  smell  of  whi.-h  left  no  doubt  as 

to  Its  respectable  age.     Beside  it  lay  an  ax,  which  was  used 

whenever  any  man  or  woman  wante<l  to  satisfy  his  hinL-rv 

cravings,  for  the  meat  was  frozen  l.nrd  ...wi  i...,!  (^  .>.. ,.. ,y^ 

At  the  side  of  this  Itimp  of  me.t  stood  also  a  huge  bh.ck  of  ice,' 


492 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


ID 


Clear  as  crystal,  whence  the  community  obtained  water  as  iu 
the  center  of  it  a  cavity  had  been  cut,  at  the  bottom  of  which 
a  stone  was  placed,  of  the  size  of  a  man's  fist,  on  which  there 
burned  with  a  good  flame  a  piece  of  moss  intersected  with 
blubber;  and  as  the  ice  melted  at  the  sides  of  the  cavity  the 
water  collected  at  the  bottc.m  in  a  small,  clear  pool,  whence  it 
was  consumed  by  the  many  parched  mouths  bv  sucking  it  up 
through  hollow  reindeer  marrow  bones,  in  exactlv  the  same 
manner  as  we  enjoy  a  sherry  cobbler  through  a  straw.  The 
Whole  party  was  throughout  in  the  cheeriest  and  most  talka- 
tive mood;  and  although  no  toasts  were  drunk  or  speeches 
'^iiade,  the  chatting  and  laughing  of  everybody  of  all  sizes  and 
ages  proceeded  so  merrily  that  the  incident  furnished  another 
strong  proof  of  the  thorough  contentment  of  these  people  with 
their  lot  in  life. 

The  next  day  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  how  the  na- 
tfves  train  their  bear  dogs.  A  bearskin  is  carried  secretly  by 
two  lads  out  behind  an  iceberg  close  by,  one  of  whom  returns, 
whilst  the  other  wraps  the  skin  round  his  body  and  theu 
en)erges,  appearing  at  a  distance  like  a  real  bear,  in  the 
creamy  fur  on  which  the  sun  plays.  Then  an  alarm  is  raised 
by  the  older  hunters,  and  with  fine  histrionic  skill  the  younger 
ones  rush  out  as  if  in  great  excitement  at  the  sight  of  the  im- 
pudent bear.  Some  of  the  dogs  have  now  also  espied  it,  half  a 
dozen  sledges  are  harnessed,  speeding  towards  the  imagine*! 
foe,  who  then  wisely  lets  fall  his  disguise. 

After  two  days'  rest  I  and  my  companion  eventually  said 
good-bye  to  our  hospitable  hosts.  But  at  the  last  moment  we 
were  pleasantly  surprised  at  learning  Ihat  the  whole  colony 
had  decided  to  accompany  us  in  a  body!  It  seemed  as  if  a 
sudden  mania  for  traveling  had  seized  upon  these  free  and  un- 
fettered persons.  ^Vhy  not,  then,  at  once  satisfy  th.'  desire? 
Their  minds  were  made  up  on  the  spur  of  the  moment,  and  half 
an  hour  hr.d  hardly  elapsed  before  the  whoh'  coUmy  had  taken 
the  field  with  all  their  belongings  furs,  harpoons,  lamps, 
suckling  babies,  blubber,  meat,  etc.,  well  stowed  away  on  their 
sledges.     They  numbered,  including  ours,  nine  in  all,  drawn 


-wr^l 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE    GREAT    WHITE   WORLD. 


493 


by  fifty-two  splendid  dogs.     But  we  did  not  enjoy  our  merry 
escort  long,  as  it  left  us  by  degrees,  the  members  taking  up 
their  abodes  along  the  coast  in  their  airy  skin  tents,  now  being 
exchanged  for  the  dark  hovels  of  the  long  and  dreary  winter 
The  first  night  after  leaving  Cape  York  we  halted  at  the 
bottom  of  an  inlet,  where  we  had  to  remain  for  thirty-six  hours 
through  a  storm.     We  found  quarters  in  some  old  ruins  of  a 
hut.     The  next  night  we  were  enabled  to  proceed,  and  as  it 
was  the  first  on  which  the  sun  would  remain  above  the  horizon 
that  season,  we  decided  to  travel  all  the  night.    The  snow  track 
was  capital,  and  we  advanced  rapidly,  reaching  the  western 
extremity  of  Saunders'  Island  at  five  a.  m.     Here  we  slept  in  a 
remarkable    grotto,  which  runs  in  under  the  perpendicular 
mountain  wall,  about  a  thousand  feet  in  height,  the  floor  being 
below  high  water  mark.    We  passed  the  colonv  "Akpan,"  situ- 
ated on  the  southwest  side  of  the  island,  then  deserted      I 
mention  it,  as  here,  as  well  as  on  the  mainland  just  south, 
here  are  remains  of  stone  huts,  which  are  now  under  water  at 
liigh  tide.     The  natives  have,  therefore,  been  obliged  to  vacate 
their  old  huts  and  erect  others,  the  former  having  graduallv 
been  covered  by  the  sea.     Similar  proofs  (,f  the  depression  of 
the  land  along  these  shores  were  at  one  time  also  observed  by 
l>r.  Kane  somewhat  farther  south,  who  suggested  that  the 
axis  of  the  oscillating  movement  to  which  it  is  generally  as- 
sumed that  the  Greenland  continent  is  subjected,  should  be 
tound  just  south  of  the  seventy-seventh  degree  of  latitude 
Judging  by  my  own  observations  on  Saunders'  Island  just  re- 
ferred to,  and  partly  from  statements  made  bv  natives,  I  am  of 
opinion  that  this  axis  must  be  fixed  somewhat  farther  south. 
On  April  2()th,  at  about  nine  at  night,  we  left  Saunders' 
Island  in  splendid  weather.     We  determined  again  to  travel 
across  counliy  to  Whale  Sound  to  escape  the  journey  aroun<l 
<  ape  I»ai'ry.    On  the  way  we  succeeded  in  kHling  a  hare,  wh(Kse 
white  coat  up  in  a  dark  ravine  olBfered  a  splendid  target  for  our 
i'lHes.     I  shall  n<.r  do'scrilH^  how  welcome  this  piece  of  fresh 
meat  was  to  us  just  then.     Suffice  it  to  say  that  for  some  days 


Hi 


t     \,\ 


i     i  \ 


i 


494 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


we  bad  lived  from  hand  to  mouth,  and  our  provision  bag  was 
slenderer  than  just  desirable. 

We  had  dedded  to  attempt  to  reach  the  south  side  of 
Whale  Sound  before  ugaiu  halting,  which  we  did  after  twenty 
hours  of  hard  traveling.  For  the  last  time  we  lit  our  blubber 
lamp,  cooked  the  rest  of  the  hare,  and  enjoyed  a  good  lono- 
s^eep  under  the  tumbledown  roof  of  a  deserted  native  hut 
We  were  still  some  thirty  miles  from  the  winter  quarters  of 
the  expedition,  but  this  we  covered  without  more  adventures 

T  *7/,«""^^''°g  ^«y»  b^ing  back  once  more  safe  and  sound,  on 
April  30.  ' 

Our  little  journey  was  at  an  end,  and  although  its  geograph- 
ical results,  which,  however,  constituted  the  only  ones  yielded 
by  «ie  second  Peary  expedition,  cannot  be  said  to  be  "start- 
ling,   the  .journey  has  to  me  been  of  great  value  and  advan- 
tage, for  It  has  more  than  ever  before  made  me  familiar  with 
the  methods  of  traveling  followed  for  hundreds  of  years  by 
tiie  race  dwelling  in  nearest  proximity  to  the  pole,  and  gained 
rrom  experience  during  their  extended  sledge  journey  along 
the  vast  ice-choked  shores  of  the  land.    And  I  feel  confident 
iiiat,  Had  the  tribe  possessed  the  scientific  enthusiasm  which 
hres  civilized  nations,  they  would  have  reached  the  highly 
eoveted  goal  long  ago,  and  explored  the  mystic  regions  in 
which  the  greai  nations  of  the  earth,  in  noble  rivalry  and  sclf- 
sacrihce,  have  hitherto  attempted  to  penetrate  in  ;ain.    But 
suddenly  to  impart  to  these  children  of  nature  an  ardent  en- 
thusiasm for  this  task  of  solving  some  of  the  greatest  geograph- 
ical and  other  scientific  problems  of  the  age  would  indeed 
be  an  impossibility.     On  the  other  hand,  however,  it  might 
be  that  the  sons  of  civilization  themselves  could  learn  from 
nie  natives,  by  sojourning  among  tiiem,  the  best  mode  of  solv- 
ing those  problems. 

There  are  those  who  maintain  that  Nansen  and  his  gallant 
imio  band  will  carry  vict<,ry  home;  and  no  one  who  is  ac- 
quainted with  the  brilliant  equipment  and  manning  of  this 
expedition,  with  oth(>r  fa^-tors  to  be  considered,  can  deny  that 
itH  pr<Ksi,ects  of  success  are  highly  promising.    But  should  even 


OR,   LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  ,,5 

region.  ,.„  both  sides  of  fhe  pole  ,'  'to  h  '  f '"  ""^  ^"^' 
tliis  glorious  labor  it  is  to  be  lCe.Ul  at "ues"''  ";'"'  •  ""^  '" 
Ang,o.Saxo„  races  „,a,  i.ad  the  wl' tt  t^aT'^"  "■"> 

EIVIND  ASTRUP 

.rsSTfri^Slr:^;^;^^^^  ^-r--  ^^  can  Siewe..  was 

last  paragraphs  were  written  befor.    ho  n/^T.'  '"  ''"  "e^^papers.    The 
Brooklyn  Standard  Union  ''^'''  °^  ^^"^^'^'^  ^^uccess.-Editor 

dee^^^^^^^^^^  companion,  whose  ioss  we 

by  Mr.  Astrnp.     Kolotengva  and  Kasn^'n      ?.     ''''^''  ^^^  ^^P'^^''  ^«  ^""^n 
and  Kesshu  as  written -eSher'^CLthor       ""'  '^  Koo-,oo-tin.  wah 


J   'I 


PLAVINO  THE   KKV-LUW-TIK. 


I 


>:;-S^^>: 


496 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE;; 


CHAPTER  XLI. 


NANSEN'S    LAST    FAMOUS    VOYAGE. 


While  the  "Falcon"  lay  at  anchor  at  Philadelphia  prepara- 
tory to  taking  our  little  party  aboard  for  the  voyage  to  North 
Greenland,  in  June,  1893,  Dr.  Fritlijof  Nansen's  Expedition 
took  its  departure  on  the  24th  of  the  same  month,  from  the 
harbor  uf  Christiania,  Norway.  The  "race  for  the  North  Pole" 
was  thus  fairly  inaugurated,  and  of  the  intrepid  Scandina- 
vian's part  in  the  contest  it  is  now  our  purpose  to  treat.  Al- 
ready is  the  reader  familiar  with  Dr.  Nausen  through  our  ac- 
count of  his  first  crossing  of  Greenland,  in  1888,  six  years 
previous  to  which  he  had  made  a  sealing  voyage  to  Denmark 
Strait,  off  the  east  coast  of  Greenland.  In  the  interval  be- 
tween the  two  trips  he  occupied  the  position  of  Curator  of  the 
Museum  at  Bergen.  Being  now  less  than  thirty-five  years  of 
age,  and  a  graduate  of  the  University  of  Christiania,  he  is  in 
the  very  prime  of  his  physical  and  mental  powers. 

The  departure  of  the  "Fram,"  or  ^'Forward,"  as  the  name 
of  the  staunch  little  vessel  carrying  the  explorers  signifies,  was 
witnessed  by  thousands  of  their  enthusiastic  countrymen,  who 
assembled  on  the  docks  and  filled  the  harbor  in  every  variety 
of  craft,  all  gaily  decorated  with  bunting  and  silver  birch.  As 
the  "Fram"  passed  the  point  on  which  his  home  is  located,  Dr. 
Nansen  stood  on  deck  and  waved  a  farewell  salute  to  his  ac- 
complished wife,  who  stood  in  front  of  the  house,  clad  in  a 
dress  of  pure  white,  while  from  the  various  batteries  salutes 
of  three  guns  were  fired  as  the  vessel  passed  them. 

Owin^  to  the  special  construction  of  the  "Fram,"  with  refer- 
ence to  navigation  in  ice,  much  is  expected  of  her.  A  three- 
masted  t^ailinu' ScliooiiPV.  mIim  ia  nlun  pr>oviMf><1  writh  n  fflfi  lio»uo. 


William  E.  Mpphan    Ho-     o-,f„_.  .  .     _  ^ — — -i 

.1.    l(...,....h Hi;:,;:'""   ""^•'  °'*"'"'  '°  ^"'^  H^i.ef  Expedition,  1892. 

-j.     Hlii>((<.i|,.iH,r,.u  l.i|i|ii,nicmii  f     '>-*si<>Im'  Ictranoiin. 

•'•    '  ^ipavt^rniMliiMiil,.  i|>o,,,,i,.m  *'     '.""if/'tf-i  (.|.,,,,sitif„lia. 


Mr.  C.  E.  Borchgrevink  (Norwegian),  Amidst  Antarctic  Scenes,  1894-5. 


'  y 


Dr.  Frederick  A.  Cook,  M.    D.  (Americani,  Piiysician  and  Surgeon 
h-eary  Expedition  1891-2,  Leader  of  the  "Miranda  Party"  and 


Organise 


«    ui    ir  I 


opuseu  ^intarctic  Expedition. 


(Sep('liai)ter  XLli. 


I.IEIT 

AlJOI 

A.  Aa 

K  H.  J 


OR.    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE    WORLD. 


497 


LIEUT.   HANHRM    OS 
AUOLii'    ,iiitJL,L.    33 
A.   AMUNDSEN,  40  ' 
if.  H.  JOHANBEI^.  ai. 


NAMES  AN^D  AGES  (1893)  OF  NANSEN'S 
ASSOCIATES. 


^">T\.    BLESSINu,    Z7 
CAPT.   SVERDRUP,  38 
P.  L.  HENRIKSEN.  34 


T.   C.  JACOBSEN,   3S. 
h  ^;Jt.,MOGSTAD,  37. 
ii.  NORDAHL,  31. 
LARS  PETTEjksEN,  a3. 


498 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  1'v.l^; 


powor  stoam  ouffino,  lias  a  displaconiont  of  800  iom,  with  her 
hkU'h  ho  formed  as  to  force  all  ice  meotiiio  Hhm..  (o  paws  under- 
lU'ath  her,  thus  preventinjr  "uippiug,"  "piuchiii- "  or  %civy  . 
lug". 

IJesldes  an  allowance  of  about  |52,()()0  voted  by  the  Nor- 
wegian Parliament,  man.y  private  .subHenoiions,  inc'ludinj;  (»ne 
of  .1|!5,000  bv  Kin-  Oscar,  -jave  Xansen  the  means  of  buildin},^ 
and  e(inip])ino-  his  vessel,  which  was  launched  Octc.ber  25,  181)2 
at  Laurwik,  near  Christiania.  A  Norwegian  i^aper  thus  de- 
scribes her  littin^out: 

''Jiread  is  the  chief  food  of  Nansen  and  his  associates.  It  is 
a  kind  of  biscuit,  larjio  and  round,  white  and  very  compact, 
ivich  inan  is  allowed  four  of  these  each  day.  Silk  is  to  be 
used  for  tents,  as  it  shnts  out  the  cold  better  than  anvthing 
else.  "        ^ 

"The  cabin  is  heated  by  means  of  an  Eufilish  petndeum 
Htove,  which  consumes  three  litres  of  petndeuiu  per  diem.  A 
«»ipply  surticient  for  ei«>ht  or  nine  years  was  taken  alou}^.  The 
library  consists  of  one  thousand  volumes,  one-half  of  which 
consists  of  scientitic  works,  and  the  other  half  of  novels,  etc. 

"All  t(dd  the  ship's  complement  of  men  numbers  but  twelve, 
all  of  whom  occupy  the  cabin,  which  measures  only  thirteen 
feet  s(piare.  Their  they  dwell,  eat  and  Avork.  The  suits  they 
wear  cannot  be  i)enetrated  with  water." 

Nansen's  comj)anions  are:  Captain  Otto  Sverdrup,  his  asso- 
ciate in  1888,  ship's  master;  Sioiird  Scott  Hansen,  Lieutenant 
in  the  Navy,  and  director  of  the  astronomical,  n:eteroloj»ical 
and  mao-netic  observations;  Dr.  II.  (}.  Blessino,  surgeon  and 
botanist;  Theodore  (\  Jacobsen,  mate;  Peder  L.  nenriksen, 
harpoon(>r;  Anton  Amundsen,  chief  enoineer;  Lars  Pettersen, 
second  enoineer;  F.  ITjalmar  .Tohansen,  officer  in  the  Nor- 
wegian Army,  tir«'man;  Bernhard  Nordahl,  electrician;  Ivan 
Mogstad,  carpenter;    Adolf  Juell,  steward. 

The  last  authentic  information  concerning  the  expedition 
was  a  dispatch  from  \'ardoe,  Norway,  August  23d,  two  months 
after  leaving  Christiania.  This  stated  that  the  "Fram,"  after 
excellent  behavior  in  the  ice,  had  reached  the  Kara  Sea  earlv 


OR.    LIFE    IN    THE   ORBAT    WHITE    WORLD.  4,g 

ill  .l.e  m„H(li.    F,„,„  M,is  point, am,i-,li„K  •  ~'  l>r.   -ans,  ,'g  „h„ 

si'"  wiis  III  I.-  ,.,.,.,1  (,,  ,1,,.  »,„„.  „,.„...       ,  ,      ,  IS  plan, 

'         "'  1" '"<   .Ncn  Siboiiim  Islan.l.s,  ami  thume 

11                  "1    -y.     "'  '''"■*"'*■'  ■'■'■•  "^•'■''"K  '■"'  »0Ht<.™ 
8b.  ■«»       a„v  ■„.„■. y-,lis,„v,.,- aiMis,  near  ,„  if  „,„  , 

.  t<;l}  over  tii„  imrtli  KooKi-aphi.-ai  p„|,..    ti,:,  m„^  ,„f„i,„.,, 
M>.  sup,K.«,...  thai  Hi..  ",.',,,„,.  ,v,„il,l  „i,.„  ,Mn  ^alliward 

^ZrT""""1 '""'"' "■"l«'<-v-i..uallvvv,„.U,ie 

way  „i,i  „f  Ml,.  „o an.l  a»iin  ..iitor  U...  North  Atlantic.  S„l,.„. 
..■.,vi«„.„,..,  ai,.l  ...,uipp,,|  f„,„  liv...v..a,..s-al,„..„,...,'it  ;, 
I-Mli,  p„  too  ..aH.y  to  .•..,ij..<M,M-,.  will,  |...f,.,.,.„,,,  to  tU,.  where., 
friom't'  ,"■;;, '-■•"I"  ,'';"<"■•  N,.v,.|tl„.|...s„,  it  I„.h.,„v..s  evo,.y 
■  ,1  J  ;,  fi  "'•'"-"'""'■'t-'-v.'iT  l.n-..r  of  hinnanity  to 
.u.l,  H  lonl.I  ,t  b<....,„ie  nocesaary,  tbo  return  of  tlu.«.  ...„„.a.;t.ou« 

.  1,    lus  r,.  to  the  .-rownins  Kbiry  of  our  nin<.t<.enth  ..entnry 
o.vil,.at,o„.    Whether  ,h<.y  are  now  retnrninK  by  the  out 

l«l.in.I.s  ami  tl...  J...na  |{iv<.r,  ivhether  i.-.-Iocked  in  the  mi.lst 

ir ;';;  r;Tr '?""■:'  "■'"""""•  ''">■  ""'>■  ■-*  «t-'i «« t 

"oitli  ...ast  of  Oreenlan.l,  or  eyeii  a);aiii  rtrift  in  trinnii.h  into 

c':i:;..;r; ,:;  ""•!,  T''  *"-  <■"-■<"'""-  ..i.pu<at;;;;;':!  'tt 

Sibelhrio  *"■  "'•■'''  ""^  "''^"•■'^'■'""f:  "f  a  vessel  to  the  New 

ttat  iZl  t^  T'r  "'  ";:''""■■•"<"'  '"  "■-  "Fnnn's"  retarn  to 
that  locality,  is  b.-iuf;  ,Iiseii.sse,l  in  Eiiroriean  .-ireles     This  it 

n.^;;;::;::;:- ":;""  "'■ "  ^•'^''  ""■"™''''  '"'•  »«"•"■ -^  «-'^' 

",  !     r       ,"■    ;'.'  '"■'•"■"I'"»l'""'"t  "f  »■■.  Nausea's  priiae  ob- 

i^  t^e  P  r'  Z  "'  *'"'  '■"«'""  '"  •"<■  i»",ie,iiat..  vi..inity 

af,   t  .n,',  •""  """"'  '"'  "•'""''  """•'•'-''  ^^t"">  I'v  tbe 

Ihe  xe  V  Sib""'      "/,"'"*"•    *""""''  ''"'^  ■"■""'  ♦"  "-  ".v  ™v  "f 
i,:h     in    "'"'"    f """'  '•«»'«»"-'«'  «•"»  wonl.1  .loaitles;  be 

a  jeai  .,r  two  hence  woul.l  be  lik,.ly  to  obtain  s.„„..  evi.lenee  of 
I"S  «,ie...es.s  or  failure,  or  perhaps  be  able  to  insar..  his  r..,,,"  , 

Years  lie,„-e  the  rea.ler  will  iv.all  the  first  reports  eoneern- 
mg  the.appose.J  return  of  Or.  Nansou  an<l  how  L  s.,.kiZl 


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THE    SEARCH   FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


months  the  entire  civilized  world  was  kept  in  suspense  specu- 
lating upon  the  probable  outcome  of  the  voyage.  On  the  very 
day  on  which  the  publisher  receives  the  manuscript  for  this 
book  we  have  received  the  following  dispatch: 

"St.  Petersburg,  April  7. — At  last  the  true  origin  of  the  Story 
about  Dr.  Hansen's  discovery  of  the  north  pole  has  been  told. 
The  story  came  from  Tomsk,  through  the  merchant  Kusch- 
nareff,  who  is  the  uncle  of  Kandakoff,  the  originator  of  the 
news.  His  statement  is  that  his  nephew  did  nothing  more  than 
transmit  the  report.  It  appears  that  in  the  New  Siberian 
Islands  there  have  been  three  parties  in  search  of  mammoth 
bones.  One  of  these  parties  returned  some  time  ago  and  said 
they  had  seen  a  ship  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  islands  with 
Europeans  on  board.  They  did  not  attempt  any  communica- 
tion with  the  ship,  nor  did  they  even  watch  it.  Kandakoff,  to 
whom  the  mammoth  hunters  brought  the  news,  thought  it 
might  relate  to  Nanseu,  and  wrote  thus  to  Irkootsk,  whence  it 
was  sent  out  all  over  the  world.  In  the  Siberian  Islands  there 
still  remain  two  parties  of  hunters  who  will  return  in  Novem- 
ber, and  who,  perhaps,  may  bring  some  details." 

In  concluding  our  account  of  Dr.  Nansen's  Expedition  it 
will  be  of  interest  to  add  that  the  so-called  "Jeannette"  relics 
which  were  reported  to  have  been  found  off  the  southwest  coast 
of  Greenland  by  some  of  the  sailors  of  the  Greely  relief  ship, 
the"Yantic,"  and  upon  which  Nansen  is  said  to  have  based  his 
belief  in  the  existence  of  the  great  Arctic  Ocean  current,  were 
spurious,  as  shown  by  Dr.  Bessels,  formerly  of  the  Hall  Expedi- 
tion, and  by  Dr,  Dall^  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution.  Nansen 
knew  of  their  doubtful  origin  before  undertaking  his  voyage. 


^<W#|UWt<0  (JBAM1U|X 


HOP-LVr^A-MUHS  (ABBOTT/. 


OR,   LIFE   IN    THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


601 


CHAPTER  XLIV. 


i 


THE  ENGLISH  IN  FRANZ-JOSEF  LAND. 

While  Dr.  Nansen's  plans  are  thus  before  the  world,  the 
English,  represented  by  the  Jackson-Harmsworth  Expedition, 
are  also  endeavoring  to  solve  the  great  mysteries  of  the  North. 
It  is  just  three  hundred  years  since  Barents  wintered  olt'  the 
northeast  coast  of  Nova  Zembla  and  now,  from  Franz-Josef 
Land,  less  than  four  degrees  of  latitude  farther  north,  do  brave 
Englishmen  struggle  to  honor  their  flag  and  race. 

Having  sailed  from  London,  in  July,  1894,  on  board  the 
"Windward,"  the  expedition,  led  by  the  intrepid  young  Jack- 
son, made  the  coast  of  Franz-Josef  Land  at  Cape  Flora,  on 
the  7th  of  September  following.  Here  the  "Windward"  be-, 
came  ice-bound  and  spent  the  winter  of  1894-5.  On  the  10th 
of  March  the  party  started  north  from  headquarters,  and  by 
May  had  established  a  line  of  depots  one  hundred  miles  long, 
to  latitude  81°  20'.  In  this  work  it  is  understood  that  large 
an ;  amiable  dogs  from  Western  Siberia,  and  hardy  Russian 
ponies  were  used.  Their  sledges,  with  broad  runners  like  the 
Norwegian  ski,  are  exceedingly  light,  and  average  in  weight 
only  sixteen  pounds. 

The  house  at  headquarters  was  built  of  large  pine  logs  and 
heated  by  means  of  a  Russian  stove. 

On  July  3d,  1895,  the  "Windward"  started  on  the  return 
trip,  leaving  all  at  the  camp  in  good  health  and  greatly  en- 
couraged at  the  outlook  for  the  future.  The  vessel  reached 
Vardoe,  Norway,  September  10th,  having  found  the  ice-pack 
of  a  very  formidable  character.  When  she  again  returns  to 
Franz-Josef  Land  for  the  explorers  in  the  course  of  the  ensuing 
summer  (1890)  it  is  hope/1  an<l  believed  that  she  will  learn 
of  the  successful  exploration  of  that  region  and  the  determina- 


502 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


tion  whether  Prauz-Josef  Land  be  an  archipelago  or  the  south- 
ern extension  of  a  j^reat  pohu*  continent.  For  this  will  science 
ever  be  indebted  to  the  generous  young  Mr.  Harmsworth. 


F.  G.  JACKSON. 


A.  C.  HARMSWORTH. 


THE  "vvindwakd; 


OR,   LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


503 


CHAPTER  XLV. 


TO  THE   NORTH   POLE   BY   BALLOON. 


At  a  session  of  The  Sixth  International  Geographical  Con- 
gress, held  in  Loudon,  from  July  2(>  to  August  3, 1895,  Mr.  S.  A. 
Andree's  Balloon  Expedition  came  in  for  its  share  of  atten- 
tion. Its  promoter  is  an  eugiueer  in  the  patent  office  at  Stock- 
holm, and  he  has  been  very  successful  in  previous  balloon 
voyages.  The  expenses  of  tlie  expedition  will  be  about  |3(),000, 
of  which  King  Oscar  II.,  of  SAveden,  heads  the  subscri])tion  list 
with  a  contribution  of  |8,000. 

Mr.  Andree  expects  to  start  from  one  of  the  small  islands 
lying  off  the  northwest  coast  of  the  nminland  of  Sp.tzbergen 
and  hopes  to  reach  the  pole  in  forty-three  hours,  returning 
either  to  the  inhabited  regions  of  North  America  or  Siberia. 
The  construction  of  his  great  air-ship  is  thus  described: 

"It  will  be  a  double  balloon,  or  rather  a  balloon  in  a  balloon. 
The  first  or  inner  balloon  will  be  mado  of  a  specially  made  silk 
cloth  of  three  folds  and  covered  with  a  water-])roof  varnish. 
Over  this,  covering  two-thirds  of  the  balloon,  comes  a  cover  of 
cloth  Inghly  saturated  with  oil.  The  object  of  the  double  bal- 
loon is  that  the  air  between  the  two  balloons  will  guard 
against  sudden  changes  of  temperature,  and  also  prevent  snow 
and  water  from  gathering  on  the  varnished  silk.  From  the 
oiled  i-virface  it  will  at  onc(>  slide  off,  i)articularly  when  the 
balloon  sways  from  side  to  side.  Instead  of  th(«  usual  ventilator 
on  the  top  of  the  balloon  these  will  be  ])laced  one  on  each  side, 
as  experience  has  shown  tliat  from  this  ventilator  the  greatest 
loss  of  gas  is  made.  To  su]>i)ort  the  net  a  heavy  iron  ring  is 
placed  under  a  wooden  roof  reseuibling  what  is  known  in  polar 
langiwge  as  a  'Nuuatak.'    Below  the  balloon  is  placed  an  auto- 


604 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE   NORTH   POLE; 


matic  ventilator  opening  at  a  pressure  of  10  mm.  water,  and 
permits  tlie  escape  of  superfluous  gas. 

"A  novelty  is  the  broad  girdle  surrounding  the  balloon  in 
its  lower  part.  This  is  for  the  purpose  of  guarding  against 
wind  pressure.  When  the  lower  part  of  the  balloon  com- 
mences to  be  empty  of  gas,  the  wind  makes  a  hollow  in  the 
balloon  and  the  girdle  will  prevent  this. 

SIZE   OF   THE   BALLOON. 

"The  balloon  has  a  diameter  of  20.5  meters  [one  meter  is 
39.37  inches]  and  a  volume  of  4,500  cubic  meters.  The  gondola 
is  made  of  wicker,  round  in  form,  covered  with  a  roof  with  two 
sleeping  places,  as  there  will  alwaj^s  be  a  man  on  watch.  The 
mattresses  will  serve  as  life-preservers  in  case  of  necessity,  and 
the  gondola  has  a  slanting  form  to  facilitate  sliding  along  the 
ice  if  so  near  an  approach  to  the  earth  is  found  necessary.  The 
gondola  is  also  provided  with  a  trap-door  to  empty  the  water 
if  the  balloon  should  take  a  'dip.' 

"M.  Andr^e  has  devised  an  ingenious  contrivance  for  direct- 
ing the  balloon.  The  efficiency  of  this  device  has  been  tested 
by  a  trip  which  he  took  July  14,  1895.  It  is  composed  of  a 
rudder  sail  secured  to  the  apex  of  the  balloon  and  to  the  car 
by  a  rope,  so  that  it  can  move  freely,  and  a  guide  rope  which 
can  be  adjusted  to  different  positions  for  180  degrees  of  the 
circumference  of  the  ring  which  is  secured  to  the  car. 

"The  guiding  is  assisted  by  means  of  this  jide  rope,  which 
is  allowed  to  drag  on  the  ground  or  in  tlie  water.  The  eyelets 
are  intended  to  receive  the  hook  of  this  guide  rope.  When  the 
hook  is  attached  to  the  central  eyelet  the  balloon  will  move 
in  the  line  of  the  wind,  but  by  adjusting  the  guide  rope  to  the 
other  eyelets  motion  in  other  directions  is  obtained. 

"The  balloon  carries  2,100  kg.  of  ballast,  provisions  for  four 
and  one-half  months,  ammunition,  a  boat,  heavy  clothing,  and 
every  necessity  that  experience  has  shown  is  required. 

PLANNING    A    QUICK    TRIP. 

"With  a  fair  wind  only  six  days  would  be  required  from 


OR,    LIFE    IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


605 


ANDREE'S   BALLOON,   SHOWING  MECHANISM  OF  THE   APPARATUS. 

[BB,  balloon.  AAAA,  outside  balloon.  CCCC,  girdle.  S'S'SS,  middle  sail. 
S'TU,  side  sail.  D,  ropes  attached  to  the  sails.  F,  cross-mast  of  bamboo. 
V,  automatic  ventilator.  E,  rope  ladder.  K,  basket.  G,  gondola.  H,  railing. 
L,  drag  lines.] 


506 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


Spitzbergon  to  Bt'iins's  Soim*!,  across  the  pole,  but  limo  makos 
lilllc  (linVrcncc,  as  the  balloon  will  lloal  with  safety  lor  !M)0 
days  and  uij;lits. 

"Kinji  Oscar  of  Swodon  is  takinjj;'  a  most  active  interest  in 
the  pri'parations  for  the  jonrney.  The  ascent  will  take  place 
iiext  July  from  one  of  the  northwestern  islands  of  the  archi- 
l)elag-o  of  Spitzbero-en.  A  buildinj;  will  be  constructed  in 
Sweden  and  will  be  erected  on  this  island  to  shelter  the  balloon 
during  its  intlatiou,  as  it  may  be  a  number  of  days  before  the 
wind  will  blow  in  the  direction  of  the  pole.  M.  Andree  will 
be  accompanied  by  Nils  Ekholm,  the  astronomer,  who  is  now 
attached  to  the  Central  Meteorological  Bureau  of  Stockholm, 
and  also  by  one  of  the  astronomers  royal  of  the  Swedish  Acad- 
emy of  Science. 

"In  the  season  which  M.  Andrde  has  chosen  the  weather 
is  usually  fine  in  the  Arctic  regions,  and  there  appears  to  be 
no  good  reason  why  the  expedition  should  not  be  a  success  and 
of  great  scientific  value.  Every  scientific  society  in  Europe, 
with  the  exception  of  the  English,  has  approved  of  the  plan 
and  believes  it  will  be  a  success.  The  English  say  the  nortli 
pole  will  only  be  reached  by  a  water  and  land  expedition,  and 
intimate  that  if  it  will  ever  be  done  it  will  be  found  that  the 
English  flag  Avill  float  at  the  north  pole. 

"The  most  favored  of  Arctic  explorers  rarely  make  more 
than  four  or  five  miles  a  day,  so  that  the  speed  which  can  be 
obtained  with  a  balloon  Avill  tend  to  do  away  with  the  great 
trouble  which  has  heretofore  blocked  all  the  explorers— the 
shortness  of  the  season." 

The  officers  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  and  of  the  Si- 
berian Government  have  been  instructed  to  watch  for  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  balloon  at  all  points  in  British  America  and 
Siberia. 


OR,   LIFE   IN    THE   GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


507 


CHAPTER   XLVI. 

LOVERS  OF  THE  ARTS  AND  SCIENCES:    FREE  AND  AC- 
CEPTED MASONRY  IN  ARCTIC  EXPLORATION. 


As  all  members  of  the  groat  and  noble  Order  of  Free  and 
Accepted  Masons  are  "taught  to  be  general  lovers  of  the  arts 
and  sciences,"  it  is  not  at  all  surprising  that  among  the  num- 
ber should  be  found  some  of  the  most  illustrious  explorers, 
such,  for  example,  as  Dr.  Kane,  Dr.  Hayes,  Captain  Wilson, 
General  Greely,  Chief  Engineer  George  W.  Melville,  Louis  P. 
Noros,  Colonel  W.  H.  Gilder,  and,  most  recently  "raised" 
(Marclv  3d),  Lieutenant  Peary.  Others  there  doubtless  are, 
whose  fraternal  relations  are  unknown  to  the  writer.  Of  those 
enumerated  Kane,  Hayes,  Greely  and  Peary  have  each  carried, 
wilh  pardonable  pride,  emblems  of  our  belov.ed  order  into  the 
"fjirthest  north." 

Among  the  organizatiohs  conspicmms  for  their  active  in- 
terest in  Polar  research,  Kane  Lodge  No.  454,  F.  and  A.  M., 
of  New  York  City,  deserves  great  praise.  Her  most  distin- 
guished sons  of  exploration  will  reflect  credit  upon  her  for- 
ever. And  how  very  appropriate  was  it  that  she  should  have 
given  recently  (April,  1890)  a  grand  reception  to  Arctic  ex- 
plorers and  travelers,  with  nearly  fifteen  hundred  persons  pres- 
ent, among  the  noted  Masonic  speakers  being  Brothers  Hon. 
Chauncey  M.  Depew,  General  Greelj',  Lieutenant  Peary  and 
Bishop  Henry  C.  Potter.  Addresses  were  also  delivered  by 
Mayor  Strong  and  Judge  Daly,  of  New  York. 

On  rhis  occasion  Lieutenant  Peary  returned  to  the  lodge 
its  historic  flag  with  which  he  had  been  entrusted  and  which 
he  had  carried  with  him  to  North  Greenland.  The  flag  is  of 
red  bunting,  having  upon  it  the  Masonic  emblems  of  the  square 


608 


THE    SEARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


and  coinpa.ss  worked  in  white.  It  was  unlurlcd  at  or  in  tlic 
viciuity  of  Indcpciidemc  Hjiy,  iu  latitude  81'  47',  la  tlio  sum- 
luer  of  181)5. 

In  tlu!  preceding  year  (1804),  mindful  of  the  honor  of  the 
fraternity  and  wifli  great  pleasure  to  himself,  the  author  had 
also  carried  with  him  on  the  sledge  journey  on  the  great  ice- 
cap a  silk-trimmed  apron  of  genuine  lamb-skin,  the  inscrip- 
tion on  which,  as  may  be  gathered  from  the  accompanying 
illustration,  served  to  encourage  and  sustain  during  many  try- 
ing occasions.  Captain  Jlenry  B.  Bartlett,  of  a  St.  John's, 
(Newfoundland)  lodge,  shared  with  him  the  honor  of  wearing 
it  ui)on  the  first  arrival  of  the  "Falcon"  at  the  head  of  IJowdoiu 
liay,  in  1893. 

The  apron  was  duly  returned  to  lOuclid  Lodge  as  re(iuested. 

As  is  well  known.  Dr.  Kane  carried  with  him  a  Masonic 
flag,  and  since  writing  the  above  wo  have,  through  the  fraternal 
courtesy  of  vVorshipfuls  J.  Morris  Ward  and  George  W.  Brown, 
Jr.,  past  and  present  masters  respectively  of  Kane  Lodge,  re- 
ceived interesting  details  concerning  the  Arctic  Masonic  flags 
of  Brothers  Hayes  and  Greely  as  follows: 

"The  Mlaycs  Flag'  was  intrusted  by  Kane  Lodge,  at  the 
Chamber  of  Commerce  (New  York),  to  Brother  1. 1.  Hayes,  June 
29,  1860,  and  carried  by  him  to  the  east  coast  of  Grinnell  Land 
and  planted  there  side  by  side  with  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  May 
18,  18()1,  in  latitude  81°  40',  and  returned  to  the  lodge  by  him 
January  2,  180(5."  The  long  lapse  of  time  before  the  return 
of  the  flag  to  the  lodge  is  believed  to  have  been  owing  to  the 
absence  of  Dr.  Hayes  as  a  surgeon  in  the  Union  Army  during 
the  Civil  War. 

"The  'Greely  Flag'  was  cut  and  made  by  his  own  hands  at 
Fort  Conger,  82°  north  latitude.  Lieutenant  Lockwood  and 
Sergeant  Brainard  carried  it  in  the  spring  of  1882  to  the 
shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  on  the  northwest  coast  of  Greenland, 
where  it  w^as  displayed  at  Lockwood  Island,  latitude  83°  24' 
north,  longitude  40°  46'  west,  on  May  13-15,  1882." 

Truly  do  such  emblems  serve  to  inspire  to  action,  and  how 
very  appropriate,  that  the  flag  of  our  country — the  flag  of 


oil.    LII'H    IN     IIIIO    (lUKAT    VVIIITK    WORLD. 


BMi 


WuHhinf^hm,  Ihc  fliHt  chief  oxcciitive  of  a  free  ami  progrcsHive 
people,  Hhould,  eHpeciall.y  in  (lie  coiKiueHtH  of  art  and  Meience, 
beaeconipanied  by  Ihe  einbleniH  of  our  order— the  enibleinH  of 
that  same  VVaHhin<;ton,  the  tirst  ^'rand  master  of  all  Free  and 
Accepted  MaHons  in  America! 

Truly,  too,  do  the  livcH  of  worthy  men  iuHpire  to  lofty  effort, 
and  the  example  of  America'H  tirwt  j^reat  philosopher.  Hen- 
jamin  Franklin,  in  hndinj?  time  to  devote  to  Masonry,  and  the 
promotion  of  Arctic  research,  is  also  cause  for  congratulation 
amonjr  all  lovers  of  human  proj,'ress. 

What  VVashinj.(on  and  Franklin  were  to  Masonry  and  Pa- 
triotism toward  the  close  of  the  eif^hteenth  century,  Jackson 
was  to  them  a  half  century  later,  oxaltinjr  and  defending'  <'ach 
with  an  iron  will  at  a  critical  period,  when  the  existence  of  both 
lu  America  was  threatened  by  foes,  domestic  as  well  as  foreign. 
What,  therefore,  couhl  have  afforded  the  author  greater 
pleasure  than  to  have  ceh>brated  Jackson  Day  in  North  (3reen- 
land  in  18!)4^  and  to  have  given  willing  testimony  concerning 
the  same  at  a  Jackson  Day  banquet  at  Aurora,  Illinois,  in  1896. 
To  quote  from  The  Chicago  Tribune,  Aurora  Daily  Express 
and  other  pj'pers  of  January  J)th,  of  the  same  year: 

"One  of  the  most  interesting  addresses  .,:  the  evening  was 
made  by  Evelyn  B.  Baldwin,  the  Arctic  explorer,  who  went 
lu  search  of  the  North  Pole  with  Lieutenant  Peary.     Mr.  Bald- 
win wore  a  silken  flag  badge  which  had  been  given  him  at  a 
Jackson  Day  celebration  of  the  Ladies'  Hermitage  Association, 
of  Nashville,  Tennessee.     He  liad  worn  this  badge  on  his  trip 
to  Greenland  a  few  months  later.     It  was  worn  by  Baby  Peary 
on  the  recurrence  of  Jackson  Day  in  North  (}reenland,'in  com- 
memoration of  the  noble  ladies  of  the  Hermitage  Association, 
of  Nashville,  who  originated  'Jackson  Day,'  and  since  Jack- 
son's death  have  cared  for  the  old  home,  'The  Hermitage.'     At 
each  annual  banquet  in  Nashville  by  the  Association  is  lighted  " 
one  of  a  quantity  of  candles  taken  from  the  tent  occupied  by 
Lord  Cornwallis  at  the  surrender  of  Yorktown,  in  1781. 
■^^-These  candles  on  the  death  of  Washington  came  into  the 

possession  of  one  of  his  staff  officers,  who  presented  them  to 
88 


I 


H-  ■'^ 


F.10 


THE    8BARCH    FOR    THE    NORTH    POLE; 


.IjH'ksoTi  wHli  llic  request  tlial  (hey  be  li^lited  luimially  there- 
after  b.v  (Jeneral  .lacksnii  to  ioimiieinorate  llie  liiinoiiH  victory 
at  New  Oih-ans.  Since  tlie  death  of  JacliNon,  in  lSt5,  tlie  Her- 
mitage AsHociation  has  prcHerved  this  cust<nn.  In  coninienio- 
I'jition  of  the  cuHtoni  th<'  speaixer  also  lij'hted  candleH  on  Jack- 
sou  Day  in  Nortii  (U'eenland,  In  \H\)i. 

"Mr.  Hahlwin  referred  to  anotlier  int<'restin};  historic  asso- 
cration.  One  of  the  Hritisli  soldiers  who  was  wounded  at 
New  Orleans  by  -Jackson's  men  was  a  certain  Jolin  Franklin, 
who  four  years  later  be^an  a  career  as  an  Arctic  explorer, 
which  terminated  witii  his  last  voyage  and  his  sad  fat<'in  1845, 
the  very  year  of  Jackson's  death.  The  little  silk  badj^c,  fnun 
Jackson's  own  home,  was  carried  farther  north  than  Sir  Joiiu 
Franklin  or  any  of  his  followers  ever  went. 

"The  speaker  closed  by  presentinj;  to  the  Hickory  Club  on 
behalf  of  the  Ladies'  Hermitage  Association,  a  hi<'kory  pivel 
which  had  been  cut  from  a  tree  j^rowinj;'  by  Jackson's  tomb. 

"The  j^ift  was  a  complete  sur[>rise,  and  when  it  was  received 
by  the  president  the  entire  company  arose  to  their  feet  and 
gave  three  cheers  for  Mr.  Baldwin,  three  more  for  the  Ladies' 
Hermitage  Association  and  at  (mce  sent  a  telegram  to  the 
ladies  expressing  their  patriotic  gratitude." 

One  of  the  most  memorable  meetings  of  Kane  Lodge  No. 
454  occurred  June  4,  1889.  Oi)ened  ili  due  and  ancient  form, 
the  prayer  was  followed  by  the  chanting  of  the  Lord's  Prayer, 
after  which  Kane  Lodge  No.  55,  of  Newark,  New  Jersey,  was 
received  and  introduced  as  a  body. 

In  the  presentation  of  the  visiting  brethren  the  introducing 
brother,  among  other  things,  said:  "It  has  been  the  peculiar 
fortune  of  our  two  lodges  to  pay  especial  regard  to  the  achieve- 
ments of  those  noble  and  daring  men  who  have  labored  to  add 
somewhat  to  our  knowledge  of  the  ends  of  the  earth.  This, 
our  peculiar  duty,  has  always  been  dear  to  the  heart  of  every 
brother  of  Kane,  and  as  our  respective  lodges  have  thus  been 
closely  united  in  the  past,  so  we  trust  and  believe  they  will  ever 
continue  in  the  future." 

In  the  response,  delivered  by  one  of  the  visiting  brethren, 


OR,    LIFR    IN    THE    ORILXT    WFFITR    WORLD. 


611 


"FAREWELL.' 


"THE  FAIR  AUGUSTA." 


612 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


the  speaker  rejoiced  in  the  fact  that  the  two  lodges  bore  the 
same  uaiue,  oue  that  is  "a  constant  reminder  to  noble  action," 
and  that  the  influence  of  Masonry  spreads  wherever  civilization 
extends— even  from  the  Arctic  to  the  Southern  Sea. 

On  this  occasion  the  following  Arctic  explorers  were  intro- 
duced and  accorded  the  hospitalities  of  the  lodge: 

Commodore  Winfield  Scott  Schley,  United  States  Navy; 
Capta'n  John  Wall  Wilson  and  Mr.  Amos  Bonsall,  the  only  two 
survivors  of  the  Kane  Expedition;  Engineer-in-Chief  George 
W.Melville,  United  States  Navy;  Colonel  W.  H.  Gilder,  of  the 
Schwatka  Expedition ;  Sergeants  Biederbick  and  Long,  of  the 
"Lady  Franklin  Bay  Expedition,"  and  Messrs.  Nindemann, 
NorG.i  and  Smith. 

Just  a  year  previous  to  this  meeting,  an  artist  residing  in 
New  York  had  presented  to  the  lodge,  through  one  of  its  breth- 
ren, a  picture  of  Lockwood  and  Brainard's  "Camp  on  the  North- 
west Coast  of  Greenland,  where  the  Arctic  Masonic  flag,  pre- 
sented tt)  the  Lodge  by  Brother  Greely,  was  displayed  to  the 
chilling  blasts  of  the  'Farthest  North.' " 

This  artist  was  Mr.  Albert  Operti,  Avho  bad  meantime  be- 
come an  honored  member  of  Kane  Lodge.  He  was  then  intro- 
duced, and  at  the  conclusion  of  an  interesting  address  relative 
to  the  value  of  art  work  commemorative  of  Polar  explorations, 
presented  to  the  lodge  his  celebrated  historical  painting,  the 
subject  and  description  of  which  it;  as  follows: 

"FAREWELL." 
OIL    PAINTING. 


Painted  by  Brother  Albert  Operti,  under  the  personal  super- 
vision of  Brother  Captain  J.  Wall  Wilson,  late  volunteer  U.  S.. 
N.  (survivor  of  the  Second  Grinnell  Expedition  in  search  of  Sif 
John  Franklin,  1853  to  1855.) 

The  scene  represented  is  at  Rensselaer  Harbor,  Greenland, 
Sunday,  May  20,  1855,  when  Dr.  Kane  and  companions  aban- 
doned the  brig  "Advance,"  just  after  they  had  removed  from 


OR,   LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  513 

the  Ship  and  placed  in  the  bows  of  the  whale-boat  "Hope,"  the 
figure-head  "The  Fair  Augusta,"  now  in  possession  of  Kane 
Lodge. 

It  is  a  dreary  scene  which  the  artist  has  depicted,  and  there 
are  suggestions  of  the  dangers  as  well  as  the  grim  monotony 
of  a  two  years'  sojourn  in  the  solitude  of  the  far  North.  The 
group  of  figures  seen  in  the  foreground,  surrounded  by  the  Es- 
kimo dogs,  includes  Dr.  Kane,  Dr.  Hayes,  Messrs.  Wilson,  Bou- 
sall,  Sonntag,  Ohlsen,  and  others  of  the  ship's  company.  The 
portraits  Lre  from  photographs.  Dr.  Kane  is  looking  off 
towards  the  brig,  seen  in  the  middle  distance.  The  ship's  spars 
and  bulwarks  are  in  part  cut  away,  having  been  used  for  fire- 
wood, enough  only  being  left  to  kepp  her  seaworthy  in  case  the 
ice  should  break  up. 

Beyond  is  "Fern  Rock,"  with  the  little  observatory  in  which 
the  astronomical  observations  were  carried  on,  and  the  cairn, 
marking  the  graves  of  the  two  sailors,  Shubert  and  Baker 

lo  the  right  is  a  grounded  conical  iceberg,  from  which  the 
party  pi^cured  fresh  water  during  their  two  years'  imprison- 
ment in  Rensselaer  Harbor,  and  in  the  distance  is  Cape  Leiper. 
J  o  the  left,  across  the  st-aits,  lie  Cape  Hawkes  and  Cape  Hayes, 
and  floe-bergs  and  rubble-ice  mark  the  line  of  the  horizon. 
I^loe-bergs  are  huge  masses  of  ice.  Rubble-ice  is  the  broken 
irregular  piles  of  ice  produced  by  the  contact  of  one  field  with 
another,  when  in  motion,  and  the  destruction  and  upheaval 
of  the  edges  of  the  conflicting  floes. 

On  the  ice-floe  is  the  whale  boat  "Hope,"  mounted  upon  its 
s  edge;  a  number  of  the  crew,  assisted  by  Eskimos,  being  busv 
stowing  away  the  last  few  bags  of  provisions.  The  small  sledc'e 
used  by  Dr.  Kane  stands  near  by.  Everywuere  is  ice  in  various 
forms,  in  delicate  and  beautiful  blues.  An  Arctic  sky,  flecked 
with  slender  frost  feather-clouds,  completes  the  picture  The 
whole  scene  is  touched  by  warm  sunlight,  and  all  details  are 
carefully  worked  out,  the  topography  having  been  taken  from 
government  charts,  surveys  and  photographs.  The  work  oc- 
cupied over  a  year  of  labor. 


514 


THE    SEARCH    FOR   THE    NORTH   POLE; 


"THE  FAIR  AUGUSTA." 


Fignre-head  of  the  brig  ''Advanco,"  the  last  piece  of  timber 
removed  from  tli(?  ship  wheu  she  was  abandoned  iu  the  lee  by 
Dr.  Kane  and  companions  iu  Rensselaer  Harbor,  Oreenland, 
latitude  78°  37'  north,  longitude  70°  41'  (J"  west.  May  20, 1855. 

Presented  to  Kane  Lodge  No.  154,  F.  &  A.  M.,  by  the  late 
Judge  J.  K.  Kane,  of  Philadelphia,  Pennsylvania. 


.  The  abandonment  of  the  brig  "Advance,"  as  described  by 
Dr.  Kane,  iu  "Arctic  Explorations,"  Vol.  II.,  1850: 

"We  then  went  upon  deck;  the  flags  were  hoisted  and 
hauled  down  again,  and  our  party  walked  once  or  twice  around 
the  brig,  looking  at  her  timbers  and  exchanging  comments 
upon  the  scars,  which  reminded  them  of  every  stage  of  her  dis- 
mantling. Our  figure-head,  'The  Fair  Augusta,'  the  little  blue 
girl  with  pink  cheeks,  who  had  lost  her  breast  by  an  iceberg, 
and  her  nose  by  a  nip  off  'Bedevilled  Keach,'  was  taken  from 
our  bows  and  placed  aboard  tlie  'Hope.'  'She  is  at  any  rate 
wood,'  said  the  men,  when  I  hesitated  about  giving  them  the 
additional  burdeu,  'and  if  we  cannot  carry  her  far  we  can  burn 
her.' " 

In  accepting  the  painting.  Worshipful  R.  M.  Morgan,  Mas- 
ter of  Kane  Lodge,  said,  in  ])art: 

"An  ancient  author  has  said :  'The  fine  arts  lo>,e  effect  when 
they  speak  to  the  mind  onl\^,  but  they  triumph  when  they 
touch  the  heart.' 

"As  you  have  suggested,  it  is  the  i)roviuce  of  the  artist, 
as  well  as  of  the  historian,  to  deal  with  the  history  of  the 
world,  to  treat  with  those  subjects  of  liuman  interest  and 
thought,  which  most  deeply  (engage  the  attention  and  stir  the 
minds  of  men,  to  record  the  events  that  have  made  their  im- 
press on  the  generations  in  which  they  have  transpired. 

"You  have  used  your  skill  and  genius,  wi'ought  into  this 
beautiful  ])ainting,  to  portray  an  event  in  the  exi)erience  of 
the  men  who  made  the  memorable  struggle  of  which  lhi;s 


OR,    LIFE    IN    THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD. 


51i 


painting  marks  the  beginning  of  the  end;  an  event  that  ap- 
peals to  our  sympathy  and  commands  our  admiration  for  the 
moral  strength  and  physical  manhood  of  which  they  furnish 
such  striking  examples;  an  event  which  at  the  time  it  oc- 
curred moved  the  heart  of  the  world. 

"We  honor  and  revere  the  character  of  that  true  man 
and  Mason,  whose  virtues  deserve  the  most  worthy  tribute 
words  can  weave,  and  whose  name  we,  as  a  rx)dge,  aid  in 
perpetuating." 

Following  the  acceptance  of  the  gift,  numerous  short  ad- 
dresses were  made.  Brief  extracts  from  some  of  these  are  as 
follows: 

Brother  Captain  J.  W.  Wilson,  referring  to  the  retreat  from 
Rensselaer  Harbor,  said: 

"VVhile  in  Melville  Bay,  and  in  dire  distress  for  want  of 
proper  food,  we  saw  in  the  mist  what  appeared  to  be  two 
vessels  passing  to  the  north,  but  thought  this  but  the  peculiar 
effect  of  the  mirage  so  common  in  northern  latitudes.  After- 
wards, by  comparing  notes,  we  found  to  our  astonishment  that 
what  \ve  saw  must  have  been  in  reality  the  'Rescue'  and 
'Arctic'  At  this  time,  had  our  boats  been  crushed  by  the  ice, 
we  should  have  all  perished  beyond  a  doubt.  Hartstene,  on 
interviewing  the  Eskimos  at  Cape  Alexander,  was  made  to  un- 
derstand by  signs  upon  the  snow,  that  we  had  gone  south  in 
boats.  He  turned  his  ships  at  once,  and  fell  in  with  us  at 
Lpernavik. 

"I  now  take  much  pleasure  in  introducing  to  you  my  fellow 
voyager,  Mr.  Amos  Bonsall,  a  man  of  many  generous  impulses, 
overflowing  with  that  genial  humor  so  essential  to  the  pleasure 
of  an  Arctic  voyager." 

Mr.  Bonsall  said:  "I  was  thinking  to-day  in  looking  upon 
this  little  piece  of  wood  so  honored  by  vou  gentlemen  as  a 
small  piece  of  the  little  brig  that  left  her  bones  to  bleach  upon 
the  Arctic  shore,  that  it  might  be  pleasant  to  vo'u  to  remember 
and  to  know  perhaps  how  she  met  with  this  maiming,  which 
makes  her  face  not  so  pleasant  and  so  delightful  as  I  have 


51G 


THE  SEARCH  FOR  THE  NORTH  POLE; 


looked  upon  it;  and  I  will  relate  just  how  that  nose  hap- 
pened to  come  off. 

"We  were  sailing  up  a  line  of  the  coast  which  was  pecu- 
liarly treacherous,  because  it  was  only  giving  us  throughout 
the  whole  range  of  our  sailing  about  two  feet  under  our  keel, 
about  eleven  feet  of  water  over  what  we  called  'Bedevilled 
Reach.'  It  did  bedevil  us  most  unconscionably,  and  in  sailing 
along  that  coast  with  a  gale  of  wind  at  our  back,  we  had  been 
driven  up  into  an  ice-pack  and  jammed  there  until  I  certainly 
thought  our  boues  would  rest  there — not  only  our  ship's,  but 
ours — for  there  seemed  to  be  no  possible  hope  of  our  escape; 
but  by  one  of  those  magical  occurrences  in  those  icy  regions, 
the  gale  subsided  and  the  ice  slackened  down  and  let  us 
through.  We  sailed  up  to  what  we  called  Godsend  Island, 
where  we  found  a  pool  of  water  into  which  we  worked  our- 
selves, not  much  larger  than  the  one  you  see  the  other  side 
of  the  brig  as  she  lies  there.  There  we  lay  several  days  in  a 
calm.  After  awhile  came  a  northerly  wind  and  swept  the 
ice  away,  and  we  were  enabled,  as  we  had  hoped,  to  work  our 
way  up  the  coast.  The  vessel  was  going  under  sail,  and  we 
made  our  way  forward,  with  the  wind  directly  in  our  faces,  by 
a  series  of  tacks,  of  course,  very  slowly.  I  was  conning  the 
vessel  in  the  afternoon,  with  a  boat  out  ahead,  sounding,  so 
we  would  not  go  ashore.  While  watching  the  boat  and  con- 
ning the  vessel,  we  had  come  in  contact,  or  very  closely  in 
contact,  on  the  inshore  tack,  with  a  piece  of  heavy  floe,  and 
had  been  compelled  to  allow  the  vessel  to  fall  off.  We  lost 
our  tack  by  this  manoeuvre,  and  we  were,  therefore,  prevented 
from  making  any  headway  whatever.  This 'confounded  piece 
of  ice-floe  would  get  iu  the  way.  I  had  the  deck  and  had  twice 
made  tacks,  and  when  we  came  again  into  the  miserable  ice, 
right  at  the  time  we  wished  to  go  about,  I  said,  'Let  her  go  into 
it.  If  she  knocks  a  stick  out  of  her  the  vessel  can  stand  the 
loss,'  and  'The  Fair  Augusta'  lost  her  nose  in  consequence. 

"I  will  tell  vou  another  anecdote  about  this  little  block 
here.    We  had  an  Irishman  aboard  named  Tom  Hickey,  the 


OR,   LIFE   IN   THE   GREAT   WHITE   WORLD.  517 

second  Steward,  pretty  sturdy,  but  fiery.  Some  of  our  people 
found  Tom  in  very  close  contact  with  'The  Fair  Augusta'  one 
morning.  Tom  was  embracing  her  very  affectionately,  looking 
up  into  her  face.  Some  of  the  boys  twitted  him  afterwards 
about  hugging  the  figurehead.  'Be  jabers,'  said  he,  'it  has 
been  six  months  since  I  saw  the  semblance  of  a  woman.  She 
looks  like  a  woman,  anyhow,  and  I  don't  care  if  I  do  put  my 
arms  around  her.' " 

Judge  Daly  followed,  and  said: 

"Why  should  we  not  take  an  interest  in  the  globe  upon 
which  we  live— where  God  has  placed  us,  and  endowed  us  with 
faculties  that  enable  us  to  discover  everything  about  it.  Should 
we  not  carry  on  the  great  work  that  began  when  the  first 
savage  left  the  rude  hut  he  inhabited  to  learn  something  of 
the  unknown  regions  around  him?  That  grand  march  of  cTvil- 
ization,  which  has  gone  on  until  our  day,  when  we  are  practi- 
cally applying  the  discovery  of  Franklin  as  the  means  of  a 
more  extensive  inter-communication  among  the  family  of  man- 
kind, and  which  will  go  on,  extending  our  knowledge  of  the 
earth,  multiplying  our  enjoyments,  increasing  our  happiness, 
and  making  us  what  God  intended  we  should  be— higher, 
greater  and  nobler." 

Commodore  W.  S.  Schley  added: 

"There  are  two  sides  to  this  Arctic  problem.  There  is  a 
material  side  and  there  is  a  scientific  side.  *  *  *  It  has 
been  asked— I  refer  to  the  material  side  of  this  problem— 
'What  is  the  use  of  all  this  loss  of  life?  What  is  the  use  of  all 
these  expeditions?'  It  may  be  said  from  the  material  side 
that  millions  of  square  miles  of  discovered  territory  have  been 
added  to  our  geography;  that  the  gospel  of  Christ  has  been 
carried  into  this  North  land;  that  the  domain  of  civilization 
has  been  extended;  that  the  empire  of  commerce  has  been 
made  to  penetrate  into  this  polar  ocean,  which  has  resulted 
in  adding  milli.-  v  of  money  to  our  material  possession  and 
circulation.  That  being  the  case,  it  does  seem  to  me  that 
there  is  some  compensation,  certainly,  for  the  small  loss  of 
life  which  has  attended  these  expeditions. 


518 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE   NORTH   POLE; 


f- 
< 


OR.    LIFE   IN    THE    GREAT    WHITE    WORLD. 


519 


u 


When  I  snv  fhci 


'('  is  ji  sciontitir  side  (o  <liis 


problem,  I 


nu'i-olj  touch  u,,„n  j,  uiino  (,f  undcveloiKMl  intolUMlual  woalth 
(onfribulK.ns  („  natnral   l.isloiy,  to  b(»tanv,  to  n.in(>ralo'.v 

w  cH'ccl   of 
',  and  ui)on  llio 


to  Hictalluroy,   to  inaoiu.tisi.i,  to   paleontolooy,   tl 
cxtronio  cold  uim)ii  animal  and  vegetable  lif( 


audiblo  raiij;^  of  sound 
scientific  world.    These  tl 
the  attention  of  }rov(. 
looked. 


i,  are  all  (|ueslions  which  alTect  the 

iin};s  are  important  enouj«h  to  attract 

governments,  and   1   hop(.  will  not  be  over- 


(( 


N 


o 


Nv,  in  regard  to  tlie  loss  of  lif(. 


Jiave  heard  it  said 


in  ])olar  explorations,  I 


m 


ill  these  explorations.     It 

in  all  the  expeditions  that 

loss  of  life  in  all  of  them  is  a  littl 


very  often  that  the  loss  of  life  was  t 


errible 
a,y  be  interestini;  to  know  that 


have  ever  <••<),„.  ii,t„  that  reoioi.  the 


the  whole  number  of  poojd 


e  more  than  2\  per  cent  of 


a  loss  as  occui 


e  engaged.     That  is  not 


S(i  great 


naval  duty  in  othei 


s  in  our  profession  in  the  i)ursuit  <yf  ord 


but  an  inappreciabl 


more  favored  parts  of  the  world.    It  be 


marv 


irs 


alon 


proportion  to  the  losses  bv  wreckage 


e  occurring  in  one  year  arouml  the  liritish  Isles 
Brother  Engineer-in-(Miief  Melville  spok<.  as  foil 


^I 


ollows: 


ca 


lect 


me  about  two  hundi-ed  forty  miles,  not  to  del 


lire,  not  to  talk  about  the  hardsl 


glories  of  the  Arct 


iver  a 
lips  of  the  Arctic  or  the 


we  do  have  good  tin 


ie,  or  the  g(tod  times  we  have  there,  be 


cause 


be 


les,  as  you  gentlemen  have  here,  but  to 


present  at  the  j)resentation  of  this  elegant  work  of 


and  my  only  regret  as  I  st 
the  United  States  to-d 


art; 

and  before  you  and  the  people  of 

i.v,  is  that  a  country  such  as  ours  is, 

with  a  treasury  overHowing  with  wealth,  that  it  cannot  put 

tortii  Its  hand,  not  only  to  encourage  the  Arctic  explorer,  but 

also  the  artist  who  trices  t<.  depict  to  you  such  a  scene  as  we 

nave  here  to-night  snatched  from  the  ever  glorious  North  " 

Brother  (\)lonel  (Jilder  concluded  the  addresses,  adding 
briefly:  '  *^ 

"As  long  as  there  is  work  to  be  done  there  (in  the  North), 
I  think  there  will  always  be  peo,)h.  to  do  it,  provided  tlu^v 
can  have  the  backing  of  the  people  at  home.    There  is  a  good 


620 


THE   SEARCH   FOR   THE    NORTH    POLE; 


deal  of  work  to  be  done  there  yet  in  the  way  of  exploration. 
Expeditions  to  the  North  Magnetic  Pole  are  the  most  impor- 
tant. It  is  a  very  hard  place  to  reach.  The  best  kind  of  work 
is  to  be  done  there." 

In  the  preparation  of  the  foregoing  pages  and  in  view  of 
their  consecration  to  polar  research  we  have  selected  the  fol- 
lowing paragraph  as  a  working  principle  and  commend  it  to 
others: 

"KEEPING    EVERLASTINGLY    AT    IT. 

"Genius  is  often  only  the  power  of  making  continuous 
efforts.  The  line  between  failure  and  success  is  so  fine  that  we 
scarcely  know  when  we  pass  it — so  tine  that  we  are  often  on  the 
line  and  do  not  know  it.  IIow  many  a  man  has  thrown  up  his 
hands  at  a  time  when  a  little  more  effort,  a  little  more  patience, 
would  have  achieved  success.  As  the  tide  goes  clear  out,  so  it 
comes  clear  in.  In  business  sometimes  prospects  may  seem 
darkest  when  really  they  are  on  the  turn.  A  little  more  per- 
sistence, a  little  more  effort,  and  what  seemed  hopeless  failure 
may  turn  to  glorious  success.  There  is  no  failure  except  in 
no  longer  trying.  There  is  no  defeat  except  from  within,  no 
really  insurmountable  barrier  save  our  own  inherent  weakness 
of  purpose."— [Electrical  Review.] 


AURORA  BOREALISES  AS  SEEN  FROM  THE  "VEGA." 


FINIS. 


ration, 
iinpor- 
f  work 


new  of 
the  fol- 
(1  it  to 


inuoiis 
hat  we 
on  tlie 
up  his 
tience, 
it,  so  it 
f  seem 
re  per- 
failure 
^ept  in 
lin,  no 
akness 


